I have replaced the inside with a diode, been doing it that way for years. Still looks original. Similar to the way I test and adjust voltage regulators. Good video.
Thanks Steve! I've been in the hobby since the early 90's and what with cutout rebuilders passing on and people switching to alternators it's been hard to find this kind of information.
Seems like, if one didn't have a variable power supply, you could create a crude go/no-go test using five AA batteries in series. The points should remain open when you connect four AAs (6V) and close when you connect five AAs (7.5V).
I have some cutouts that have similar internal function, induced magnetic point closure, but skeletonized hardware. Aftermarket? Bad ones usually have open primary magnetic circuit. Toss? Save usable parts...
Great videos!! Judging standards say all Model A cut outs have slotted feet. Your 4 examples did, but initial unopened one has closed feet. I have one which is internally like yours but closed feet.... are they post Model A cut outs?
Very informative video! Thanks for sharing. Would you happen to have the lugs, insulators and screws for sale? I have the cutout that I adjusted per the video, but am missing said pieces. Late '31 standard 5 window coupe btw
I wanted to know if I sent you my cut out , how much you would charge to go thru it and set it up correctly. It is already a Terne finish so I don't need any refinishing done. It has been sitting awhile and may just be corroded. My friend took a photo of your table at Chickasha this year but I can't make out all the numbers of your phone. Larry Reeg I'm on VFF and Ford Barn.
any idea why a cutout would have to have a battery hooked up to work? I tried to bench test one off a 2n ford tractor which is basically the same as what you showed and I can only get the cutout to work as long as a battery is hooked up to it and I have to push the terminal down to close the points and this only works up above12 volts. I have loosened the spring plate screws to remove tension but I still can't it to automatically close the points even at the high voltage. I have to help it each time and they will stay closed until the voltage drops off and then they don't work again until I repeat the process. I initially adjusted the air gap and points gap as you described which got the cut out to start working if I helped it but I can't get it to work properly. Sorry for the long winded comment trying my best to describe this odd situation.
It hard to say without seeing it for myself. I assume you are using a variable power supply that has a sufficient current rating, at least 10 amps, to vary the voltage. But I don't know how you are connecting a battery with a power supply. But it could be as simple as the insulating coating on the coil is deteriorated, causing an internal short at some point in the winding.
@@steveblancard5566 It's basically wired up as it would be in the tractor less the amp meter. negative of the battery off the the battery side of the cut out and the positive grounded to the cut out. And yea it's a variable power supply. I'm not sure off hand on the amps. I borrowed the one I am using and do not know the specs.. I'm trying to find one that will do up to around 30 volts. I tested 3 other cut-outs I have for Model T's and they worked as they should for the most part. One I think is set to charge an 8 volt battery. I was wondering about it being an internal short and was trying to figure out how to test that. Thanks for the help
Well if the other cutouts tested good, then your test set up is ok. Sounds like that cutout is bad, may be a partial or intermittent short somewhere. It happens, I have a box full of bad ones. I have good, refurbished original Ford cutouts available if you need another one.
I have several that work if you manually close the points. But not with electrical power. Reason: Primary circuit is open. Is there any to fix for this or just salvage usable parts?
Steve - can I pay you to inspect and, if necessary, restore my negative ground Ford Model T cutout? I have one of the original ones that look like what you exhibited starting at 19:53 of the video. Thank you.
The cutout terminal closest to the feet connect to the red wire coming out of the generator. The black lead coming out of the generator is ground and attaches to one of the cutout feet screws.
Excellent video! Thank you very much!
Liked your footage, very clear and well explained. Many years more to exercise your expertise!
Well done; good explanation of the servicing and props to whoever did the camera work! This video will be added to the MAFCA website's Videos Page!
Thank you.
I have replaced the inside with a diode, been doing it that way for years. Still looks original. Similar to the way I test and adjust voltage regulators. Good video.
Thanks Steve! I've been in the hobby since the early 90's and what with cutout rebuilders passing on and people switching to alternators it's been hard to find this kind of information.
Very nice video, Steve
Very informative. Thanks for making this video.
Excellent video, and instruction, Thanks
Great Video Steve.
Very good information. Thanks for the video!
Super video. Really clear, and helpful. Thanks.
Well done, Thanks
Seems like, if one didn't have a variable power supply, you could create a crude go/no-go test using five AA batteries in series. The points should remain open when you connect four AAs (6V) and close when you connect five AAs (7.5V).
Yes, that's a great idea.
great video
I have some cutouts that have similar internal function, induced magnetic point closure, but skeletonized hardware. Aftermarket? Bad ones usually have open primary magnetic circuit. Toss? Save usable parts...
Most aftermarket cutouts are cheaply made. I only use original Ford cutouts. Others I just toss out.
Great videos!!
Judging standards say all Model A cut outs have slotted feet. Your 4 examples did, but initial unopened one has closed feet. I have one which is internally like yours but closed feet.... are they post Model A cut outs?
Yes, closed feet started in 1934. I refurbish all years.
Hey steve
Very informative video! Thanks for sharing. Would you happen to have the lugs, insulators and screws for sale? I have the cutout that I adjusted per the video, but am missing said pieces. Late '31 standard 5 window coupe btw
Glad the video was helpful. NUREX and Snyders sells the insulators and L bracket.
@@steveblancard5566 thank you for the quick reply.
I wanted to know if I sent you my cut out , how much you would charge to go thru it and set it up correctly. It is already a Terne finish so I don't need any refinishing done. It has been sitting awhile and may just be corroded. My friend took a photo of your table at Chickasha this year but I can't make out all the numbers of your phone. Larry Reeg I'm on VFF and Ford Barn.
I was not at chickasaw, but I was at Luray. I'm ndnchf on VFF and fordbarn. Send me a PM there to discuss your cutout.
@@steveblancard5566 I'll message you there, thanks.
any idea why a cutout would have to have a battery hooked up to work? I tried to bench test one off a 2n ford tractor which is basically the same as what you showed and I can only get the cutout to work as long as a battery is hooked up to it and I have to push the terminal down to close the points and this only works up above12 volts. I have loosened the spring plate screws to remove tension but I still can't it to automatically close the points even at the high voltage. I have to help it each time and they will stay closed until the voltage drops off and then they don't work again until I repeat the process. I initially adjusted the air gap and points gap as you described which got the cut out to start working if I helped it but I can't get it to work properly. Sorry for the long winded comment trying my best to describe this odd situation.
It hard to say without seeing it for myself. I assume you are using a variable power supply that has a sufficient current rating, at least 10 amps, to vary the voltage. But I don't know how you are connecting a battery with a power supply. But it could be as simple as the insulating coating on the coil is deteriorated, causing an internal short at some point in the winding.
@@steveblancard5566 It's basically wired up as it would be in the tractor less the amp meter. negative of the battery off the the battery side of the cut out and the positive grounded to the cut out. And yea it's a variable power supply. I'm not sure off hand on the amps. I borrowed the one I am using and do not know the specs.. I'm trying to find one that will do up to around 30 volts. I tested 3 other cut-outs I have for Model T's and they worked as they should for the most part. One I think is set to charge an 8 volt battery. I was wondering about it being an internal short and was trying to figure out how to test that.
Thanks for the help
Well if the other cutouts tested good, then your test set up is ok. Sounds like that cutout is bad, may be a partial or intermittent short somewhere. It happens, I have a box full of bad ones. I have good, refurbished original Ford cutouts available if you need another one.
I have several that work if you manually close the points. But not with electrical power. Reason: Primary circuit is open. Is there any to fix for this or just salvage usable parts?
Steve - can I pay you to inspect and, if necessary, restore my negative ground Ford Model T cutout? I have one of the original ones that look like what you exhibited starting at 19:53 of the video. Thank you.
Email me at splitdorf(at symbol)cox.net
I am trying to reconnect my generator on a 1937 ford. How to I connect back with the cutoff?
The cutout terminal closest to the feet connect to the red wire coming out of the generator. The black lead coming out of the generator is ground and attaches to one of the cutout feet screws.
And the power goes back into the front of the cut off where it says BAT
Yes
@@steveblancard5566 thank you so much for all your help
Interesting but what is a cutout?
Simply an electrical-mechanical switch to disconnect the generator from a car's electrical system when the car is not running.