Great stuff! So few, even the older, really knowledgeable guys, take the time to review the basic function of Henry’s distributor. As often happens, the stock parts are easier to troubleshoot and usually work best if in proper shape. Excellent content!
I have used the modern lower plate along with a modern upper plate set up on a lot of distributor rebuilds for a while, but the lower plate I use is steel. I find that the modern condenser's I get with these plate set's aren't too reliable, so I install the modern brass tab contact for the lower plate part closest to the points and the modern condenser wire on the "outside" so the condenser can be changed without moving the brass contact tab. I know that di-electric grease is not a lubricant, but I smear some on the lower plate where the brass tab contact's it and never had a problem with lower plate wearing out.
I assume you mean the di-electric grease isn't *conductive* - it's a great lubricant. The problem I've always had with the "wireless" lower plates is that the brass tab pushes down on it, and after awhile the flange fatigues and only makes contact with the tab at its highest point. Glad it's working for you though. Maybe greasing the tab helps in some odd way.
Based on my understanding of how these work.... probably not? The condenser is a capacitor. Its job is to provide a ground path while the points are open and then feed that current back into the circuit to help the coil's magnetic field collapse. "When capacitors are connected in parallel, the total capacitance is the sum of the individual capacitors' capacitances. If two or more capacitors are connected in parallel, the overall effect is that of a single equivalent capacitor having the sum total of the plate areas of the individual capacitors." If the car ran fine with them both installed, I don't see how it could have hurt anything.
Great stuff! So few, even the older, really knowledgeable guys, take the time to review the basic function of Henry’s distributor. As often happens, the stock parts are easier to troubleshoot and usually work best if in proper shape. Excellent content!
Thanks, I enjoy doing the deep dives. In particular, I like learning and teaching the proper names for components and subcomponents.
Shout out received. Thank you Alex! Well done.
Thanks, keep up the good work.
fantastic video! This is exactly what I'm dealing with right now and I had NO idea! Thanks for this great video!
great video! thanks so much for posting this!
Absolutely love ❤️ your videos and very informative many many thanks for the great information!!
I have used the modern lower plate along with a modern upper plate set up on a lot of distributor rebuilds for a while, but the lower plate I use is steel. I find that the modern condenser's I get with these plate set's aren't too reliable, so I install the modern brass tab contact for the lower plate part closest to the points and the modern condenser wire on the "outside" so the condenser can be changed without moving the brass contact tab. I know that di-electric grease is not a lubricant, but I smear some on the lower plate where the brass tab contact's it and never had a problem with lower plate wearing out.
I assume you mean the di-electric grease isn't *conductive* - it's a great lubricant. The problem I've always had with the "wireless" lower plates is that the brass tab pushes down on it, and after awhile the flange fatigues and only makes contact with the tab at its highest point. Glad it's working for you though. Maybe greasing the tab helps in some odd way.
Another great video. Thanks for posting this info.
I've put a piece of rubber hose behind the lower plate and dist housing. Silicone seal works also. I seen too many cables screw in too much.
I've heard of guys finding all sorts of stuff under the lower plate when they take apart old distributors, so it's clearly been a thing for a while.
If I ran it for a few times with both condensers would that have hurt anything?
Based on my understanding of how these work.... probably not? The condenser is a capacitor. Its job is to provide a ground path while the points are open and then feed that current back into the circuit to help the coil's magnetic field collapse. "When capacitors are connected in parallel, the total capacitance is the sum of the individual capacitors' capacitances. If two or more capacitors are connected in parallel, the overall effect is that of a single equivalent capacitor having the sum total of the plate areas of the individual capacitors." If the car ran fine with them both installed, I don't see how it could have hurt anything.