I would be careful with using a bolt that has a shank that's the exact size of your tabs. Especially since the tabs will deform some when tightening. If you run out of threads your torque wrench will click off but the joint isn't necessary tight. The bolt sees a relatively low load because the bolt is tight(Joint stiffness ratio). If the bolt isn't able to provide enough preload to the inner sleeve then the bolt will see more load than it should. This is why you see bolt holes in tabs get egg shaped because the bolt wasn't tight enough. With that said if you use enough washers to make sure the nut has threads to grab on to then you are golden.
Thank you for never assuming that your audience knows what the heck they’re doing. And, more to the point, for never adopting a patronizing attitude when you set things straight. Your build videos have been and continue to be tremendously helpful. Thanks for keeping up the standards and the humanity.
@@GarageFab You are much, much better at it than me lol, I can try my damndest to inform without intent of insult, but I don't succeed near as often as I wish I could.
Great information, thank you. The difference between these and OEM is on an OEM bushing the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer barrel. The only movement is the flex of the rubber between the inner and outer metal barrels. That's why when changing things like control arms, you don't torque them up until they are on the ground (or ramps) under their own weight. That way, you are tightening them up in a position in the middle of the suspension's range of motion: In full compression they twist one way, in full droop, they twist the other way. If you tightened them up fully while unladen in the air at full droop, they would be much more likely to tear at full compression because now you are asking the rubber to twist in one direction to cover the full range of the suspension's motion. the take-away: Tighten them while on the ground or they will tear quickly.
I was looking for this comment. I've had this discussion with alot of my helpers. "Never tighten rubber suspension bushings with the vehicle jacked up". They won't last 6 months
Not always. Mazda leaf spring bushings have the inner sleeves bonded in but not the outer. They press into the leaf spring eyes and the bushings on the shackles ate not bonded to either. Same for square body chevy trucks and many others.
@@michaelwhite-oi1ft There are always minor exception. Older Grand Cherokees have bushing at the back of the lower A-arms that are bonded to their housings but not the part of the control arm that sides into it. But the front bushings in the same A-arms are fully bonded so you still have to have full weight on the suspension before you torque everything
While we’re at it, Toyota/Lexus also have bushings with bonded inner sleeves that press into an eye and are therefore not bonded on the outside. They are rubber, though, and are not lubricated so I follow the same tightening procedure.
What a fantastic video. No excess blabbering but straight to the point and everything presented in an easily understandable fashion. Subscribed immediately, just starting on the first project car where I have to rebuild the entire suspension and this kind of info is priceless. Thanks you!
I would agree great info and to the point. I’m in the process of doing this on my 88gt fiero it’s a resto build a barn find no motor. The car sat for 23 years. All the hardware for the suspension had to be cut off. Or it broke off and the. Had to be cut off. So poly upgrade it is. Your video help refresh my memory on installing them. Thanks.
I’ll classify this as one of the best YT vids out there. Actually very informative to people who don’t know, but also informs the people who THINK they know of proper techniques for safety and durability. Bravo bro
Thank you Steven! That is quite the honor. That’s what makes TH-cam so great. You could learn something, even if you thought you already knew it, all in the privacy of your own mind. For those that struggle with self-worth, No one has to know they didn’t know something. Conflict-free learning! Cheers my friend!
Good video. I have fixed a few 'death wobble' trucks just by installing longer sleeves that lock down when the bolts are torqued. It's amazing how little movement in suspension will create such a large issue
Interesting! I’ve had a few people ask me how to fix death wobble, but I honestly haven’t really experienced it. It’s not a problem we see often in the mini truck world.
Just stumbled across the channel. Finally, somebody is making videos of the small details everyone else's leaves out that are so important. Major companies instructional videos always leave this out. They just say insert and tighten to spec without going into How it's supposed to function with the part that was just installed
It's not every day you come across gigachad articulately and concisely explaining something most mechanics and builders would overlook. The more I wrench, the more stuff I learn I don't know. Thanks so much for this video.
FINALLY, a person who KNOWS how to measure a BOLT. Fat too many mechanics tend to think the HEAD size is the size of the bolt and they usually get all bent out of shape when they ask for a 1/2" bolt when they are really after a 5/16" one.
Haha! I’m guilty of that at work. Interesting how my fab life and wrenching life don’t agree. While working on Toyotas with metric fasteners, if say I need a 14mm bolt, I’m NOT talking about the threads. 😂
Dude! Fantastic video! I've replaced the suspension bushings on my whole truck myself, but I never before fully understood how the parts function as a set. I am so grateful for this video. You are an excellent teacher.
Thank you for pre-empting my "But of course I grease the bolts, because I want to be able to get them back out again some day" comment. :D You're the bomb, dude. :D
@@GarageFab I mean... better the desert than somewhere that rust happens, but yeah, I've definitely had rubber bushings weld themselves to bolts shafts, even living in the 'Burque.
A couple of additional comments - when a ZERK grease point is used, make sure the sleeve is welded in a position where the nipple is accessable with the suspension member fitted to the vehicle - sometimes you can correct this with a 90 or 135 fitting, but not always. If the fastener uses a castellated nut which takes a split pin, you can usually replace it with a stainless steel "R" clip - they won't rust in place and are easily removed, and they're re-useable. Depending on the specific application, it may be wise to use a longer bolt than actually required and drill the end, after the retaining nut, for an "R" clip - it doesn't often happen, but if for some reason the nut loosens, the clip will prevent it falling completely off and so prevent the bolt backing out. If you have access, you can do the same thing with bolts into captive nuts. Something I got from Justin* is to turn up some alloy spacers that are a close fit to the sleeves and use them instead of the 'plastic' insert when tacking parts together - th-cam.com/video/aIGTNU6hG2Q/w-d-xo.html *He also has a lot of sound advice to compliment this gentleman's advice - www.youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries/featured
All good info! I like the idea of the R clips. Toyota uses those a lot and they’re really classy looking and, as you mentioned, reusable. I think I might have to incorporate those in some stuff soon. Ah, Justin. Fellow Las Vegas fabby guy. Part of the reason I wanted to become a famous TH-cam fabricator. 😉 Thank you Brother. 🙏
Excellent description of poly bushings - with clear video to explain the function of the main parts. He shows how to get it right, how to get it wrong, and the reasoning behind his simple/vital rules. I've been watching videos on the subject all morning. Erase all of those, and just watch this. You will save yourself a lot of time, and you'll know exactly what to do.
This probably only applies to the after-market polyurethane bushings. Most OEM bushings are basically melted rubber that is stuck to both the inner and outer sleeves. Then it becomes important to tighten these bushings with the control arm at rest or “normal ride height” or the bushing will be twisted when the vehicle is on the ground.
You are correct Victor. I probably should have made that more clear. It’s surprising how often I see technicians installing control arms with bonded rubber bushings and tightening up the bolts on the lift. 🤦🏻♂️ With polyurethane bushings, the sleeve is not bonded and is designed to slip, so it doesn’t matter when you tighten the bolts. Thank you Victor!
@@GarageFab BONDED!! That’s the word I was looking for… then I had to go and say “melted rubber blah blah blah” LMAO. Anyway, your video is perfectly clear as it pertains to exactly what you are talking about. My comment is more off-base, although related. I appreciate the great content on your channel and how clearly you explain it all!
@@GarageFab Oh I'm glad I came back to this video and read the comments, I am replacing OEM with MOOG OEM-like bushings and got spooked haha. Thanks for making the video and clarifying that, I had no idea there was a difference!
Yes Sir! Big difference! Bonded rubber bushings aren’t meant for large amounts of twisting movement. So after installing your new bushings, make sure you set the vehicle down before fully tightening up the bolts. That can be really hard especially if your vehicle is low, but your bushings will thank you.
Haha! I think that implies that I am a guru of sorts. I’m definitely not that. I only have a firm grasp on the basics, and a willingness to share the little bit that I know. There are people that know far more than I do, just finding ones that teach can be a challenge. Regardless, thank you Michał! So very happy to have you.
Yessss! Now that was a great and well articulated run down of suspension bushings and components. Even if you’re not fabricating and all you’re doing is installing bolt on components like mid or long travel kits this is something you should be aware of. Make sure the manufacturer is giving you quality parts
Yes, I am a through bolt rust prevention greaser. Thanks. Great video to help everyone understand bushings, and how important it is to have them correctly built, and installed.
@@GarageFab Welcome to the UK. Everything rusts this time of year. Every time I work on one of my cars the Mrs. asks why my cloths are covered in 'gold glitter'.
This was an excellent video. Explaining not only what to do, but what not to do and why in an easy to understand manner without sounding patronizing. As others have said, that can be a tricky balance to find when teaching. Nicely done.
What a nice job of describing the correct way to mount a bushing assembly! The bushings I’m using specify white lithium grease in case anyone didn’t get that information with their bushings. I use drum brake bearing grease(stringy stiff grease) on the bolts and, a bit of red loctite in the nuts to make sure they stay put.
Wish I had found your videos in the late 90's when I had the time, energy, and interest in doing this stuff. Just got a bunch of bulletin boards full of guys telling me if I could afford to drop $100 on something instead of making my own, then the hobby wasn't for me.
I was checking up on intake manifolds for my Toyota engine, and then your video came up, recommended by the TH-cam algorithm. As much as I am an idiot when it comes to bushings - your video provided great insights and a concise explanation on what bushings should be. Also, thumbs up to hearing from a Toyota-certified professional! Thank you from Singapore!
Exactly why I follow and watch your content, I don't want to just know what works, BUT WHY IT WORKS. As always, super informative, intelligently simple and concise. A++
You never know everything my father use to tell me and try to learn something new every day and i just did!!! You are a really good teacher my hat off to you! Thank you for your education and my learning. Joe
Yes your mostly correct. Engineering standards generally ask for no more and no less than 3 threads protruding after the assembly. So if you need to trim, use that as a guide!
@@GarageFab hey Toyota owner and mech engineer here...love this post and will follow you. I'm about to do RR bushings on an 05 Highlander....so I went down this protrusion rabbit hole and unless there's a chance equipment or people will get damaged, extra protrusion is no risk...seems there is an aspect of using #threads to do a verification of bolt stretch if the design needs it....other than that, have one thread if you wish. ...so long as you have full nut engagement when the assembly starts seeing load during tightening. Cheers from rusty upstate NY!
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. My front suspension was squeaking while going over small bumps. Took me a while to diagnose the noise. It was due to the control arm bolts being a tad bit loose. Got it tightened at the service centre.
I like how at first you asked what's wrong. I didn't know what I was looking at, but as you went through it, I could start seeing what was wrong. It was so helpful!
I've never really built a full suspension but I have converted several different types to poly. All this seems very obvious to me but I guess I was learning on things that were pre-engineered. Thanks for the tip on where to get ends.
True. I think all the times I’ve seen mistakes where when people tried to make their own bushings. And once from a small company that sold custom control arms. They’re not in business anymore. 🤔
Some stock rubber bushings are fused to both sleeves and you can expect a short service life followed by a rear steering wobbling nightmare unless you make a provision for the bushing to pivot. A bronze sleeve between the bolt and slightly opened inner sleeve is a great mod when feasible. Early polyurethane bushings had a tendency on rare occasions to squeak but only while driving unless you ignored their instructions for no lubricant.
The bronze sleeve is a fascinating idea. Rubber bushings are great for absorbing road vibration but absolutely terrible on high travel bagged vehicles. I’m all about polyurethane but gotta admit your suggestion sounds interesting. Hire do you tighten the through bolt and keep it tight? 🤔
@@GarageFab I make the innermost bushing proud and on the second one onwards turned an o-ring groove on both ends of the bushing plus a clearance groove in the sleeve that allowed grease to completely fill the pivot and move any wear fragments over the o-ring. The improvement in lubrication with impregnated bronze as the bushing material and 0.020" of added clearance in the central part of the sleeve was enough to extend the service life to where it no longer needed to be replaced just greased with oil changes. This was on a 97 Pathfinder after wearing out the factory bushings plus an updated version and 2 polyurethane sets. It became a challenge.
Best not to use polyurethane where you can avoid it, as it tends to transmit a lot more of the high frequency stuff, especially because sizing is usually not done well (ie; the intaller doesn't know what the forces are or the range of compliance needed). This is especially true of engine mounts, where lack of compliance can kill alternators etc. Compliance problems are usually worst around 4 bar linkages, with triangulated 4 bars needing lots of compliance to work... Normally it's better to go for parallel 4 bars plus a watts link, it gives better control, less compliance interference with suspension behaviours etc and is simpler to calculate loads. Similarly, the type of bushing you're demonstrating here has very little lateral bearing capacity, it only bears on the edges of the steel tubes, so lateral loads are a big no no and should be oriented purpendicular to the link tube (unlike the triangulated 4 bar demonstrated). Finally, bolted joints are considered to be failed when they slip, so the end of thread is (or should be) totally irrelevant, if it fails it's because it's slipped and failed under impact loads, resultant from the post failure movement. Size bolts so you've got at least one fully formed thread on the unloaded side of the bolted joint, but no other aspect is critical unless you're engaging onto the unformed threads of the shank, which WILL result in premature failure. The only parts involved in the joint behaviour should be the inner tube, clamped between the two flanges and the bolt it's self. The friction between the outer flanges and the tube are the only forces through which the joint should operate.
That was an insane amount of fascinating information. My biggest 😳 moment was alternator failure from poly engine mounts. What’s happening to cause that?! Thank you for taking the time to right all that. You are appreciated, Drew.
@@GarageFab thanks, I appreciate it. Poly engine mounts or rigid engine mounts can cause alternator failure because they don't absorb high frequency vibrations in the same way that traditional engine mounts do. You can get electronic or winding failure as a result of the increased fatigue loads. GM makes some awesome hydraulic engine mounts that are studded on both ends and are basically awesome as a universal mount (LS/LT mounts). And happy to help btw
Good info. I installed a triangulated 4 link on my truck. When I supported the truck with jack stands on the frame unloading the suspension, I could move the rear end side to side with my hands on the tires. The bushings were loose between the flanges after tightening to recommend torque. How should I correct this issue?
@@Jack-dm8lj are you fabbing the setup yourself? And are you particularly wedded to the idea of a triangulated 4 link? What do you want to use it for and how much travel do you want?
@@drew79s I purchased a kit from speedway. It is installed on a 1952 chevy pu. The brackets were cnc welded and made ready to attach to the frame and rear end housing. I removed the end links and shaved about a 16 of an inch off the inner sleeves. They tightened up nicely. Did I screw up? lol
Silicone based brake lube is one of the most underrated tools by a lot of mechanics. It's rubber and plastic safe. Being brake lube, it won't run when the temperature goes up. AND it really takes the fight out of hoses, o rings, or intake ducts. A very light coat on both surfaces and things usually just click into place.
Thanks for this information I have a old 85 cavalier with a rusted up subframe. A arm is alright. But had a buddy do some welding on it. I think I should take it back off and redo it. Thanks again
Good on you thanks , working with suspension specialist yrs ago ,he would soak bolts in diesal before installing,and every one had hole after nut for split pin ,a fair amount of the work end up on race track ,when I asked about pins he said,it's the 2 dollar piece of mind factor
Fantastic video. Nice to see the inner working of something as simple as a bushing. I didn't know the inner sleeve shouldn't rotate. Learned something new! 😊
I came across this via the algorithim and just wow I learned so much in so little time. Now I feel like taking a second look at my suspension. I appreciate you making this video! Can you make another on asking your boss for another 1 month break? lol
You use a unique drill bit to drill the holes in your brackets (piloted). Can you let us know where you get them? Sorry if this has been asked and answered already.
Hey, Mark! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own… Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5
Thank you. I was worried I was doing them wrong but I’ve been doing them exactly that way. Also just noticed the Keep Moving Forward sign very awesome.
This right here, clear info with reasoning that's east to understand. Also the engagement and pinned comment make this a clear win. Followed, thumbed, keep this coming. It's nice to see someone care about the details especially enough to acknowledge when a comment has merit to reinforce their point.
Dude! You are killing it! Clear, concise, all excelent info, no bs fluff. More TH-camrs should take note. Thank you for all your hard work. Keep it up! A+. Subbed
I really appreciate you specifying the SOURCE of all the information. Without that, all this would be just opinion. Another reason for going with grade 8 bolts (but this is just opinion) is that they have better coatings against rust. Am I wrong?
I honestly don’t know the answer to that! I know they’re coated, and I know it’s different than your typical zinc plating, but I don’t know what the difference is. I’ll have to look it up.
I'm not expecting to be fabricating suspension components any time soon but this is just excellent automotive general knowledge regardless, along with a tonne more posted by experienced and knowledgeable folks in the comments. Great stuff, instant sub!
I was a heavy duty truck mechanic for most of my life. I've never fabricated suspension parts. I've never used urethane bushings just rubber press in bushing assemblies. Assemble suspension parts, lower vehicle to apply full weight to suspension, tighten center bushing bolt, the rubber bushings I used were not greasable. You just used a little grease on the outer metal sleeve to help when pressing bushing into the spring eye. I am aware of most of the points you are making, but the fact that you can/should grease urethane bushings was something I was not aware of.
From my understanding grease isn’t necessary from a longevity standpoint. They’ll operate just fine dry. Polyurethane is quite noisy. Imagine a group of balloon animals wrestling. The lube is simply to alleviate the hyper annoying squeak.
Since terminology is important, the fitting where grease is introduced is called a hydraulic grease fitting😊. But everyone calls it a zero fitting. But this video is very well made, thank you.
Thanks for the information, I had to change the rear end in my Nissan Pathfinder because I was hit in the side right on the rear wheel and it bent the rear housing. When I tightened the bushings the nuts were self locking so I wasn't sure if the inner sleeve rotated around the bolt or not. I decided to go ahead and tighten the bolts since they were tight when I removed them. Now that I know that the bushing rotates around the inner sleeve I know I did it correctly.
Here’s a little additional info that I neglected to include in the video Dave. I’m assuming your bushings were factory, and if so, they’re probably bonded rubber. These type of bushings are still fully tightened as mentioned, but they should not be tightened until the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. If you tighten them with the wheels off the ground, the bushings will twist when you set the vehicle down, and this will cause your bushings to tear prematurely. If this is the case, I would simply recommend loosening the bolts without lifting the truck and then tighten them again. The inner bushing should spring back to its natural position.
Yup thats exactly how i been doing them i use grade 8 black bolt with crimp nuts like factory nuts notice the lock washer will spread every once an awhile this is a great video for guys doing at home this video can save lives cuz suspension failure is critical
I just found your channel....Nice video! many years ago, someone said to me "never use anything less grade 8 on vehicles with stressed or weight bearing. Like the engine in my 1946 Harley knuckle-head. or my 1972 corvette. They are both old beaters, but the running gear is very tight.
Well done, thorough explanation & how to on urethane bushing assy. I might suggest a complete coating of the through bolt w/ Neva Seize, rather than grease to prevent rust bonding of the bolt to the sleeve, if you live in a damp climate or your state uses ice melting chemicals on it's roads. Neva Seize doesn't seem to accumulate dirt as bad as grease & will last much longer than grease. I switched to the copper based version quite some time ago, it's slightly less messy, is supposed to perform better.
Very informative videos. I've done this for years and I know the tolerances need to be damn near perfect when dealing with rod ends and bushings. But, I like to see someone else out there that knows what they are doing also. Good videos man. Keep up the good teaching on all you do.
Good info vid, thanks. My first rebush failed within a month. The body men asked "Didja lube 'em?" Crimson me said "Oh." That was an easy fix. Two 1990 F-150 rear leafs quiet once again. Dick Cepek parts had no installation tips sheet with them.
There are a lot of aftermarket parts like that. Not sure why. Perhaps they assume, “Dudes are gonna install this. Dudes throw out instructions so what’s the point.” Be aware that there are varying qualities of polyurethane as well. So grease with silicone based lubes and stick with reputable brands like Energy and Daystar.
Toyota mechanics were the best in town during the 1980's when I was a young fella. I worked at a Toyota dealership after a Ford dealership and 2 years of mechanic Tech School. Before all that was a Navy Engineer for 6 years.
Thank you! This is exactly what i needed to find tonight as im trying to fix a super duty traction bar that isnt available from the manufacturer anymore and the aftermarket isnt built correctly... 👍
Permatex silicone paste works well on the through bolts , it is water resistant , lubricates , and is safe on rubber parts . I also use this product on Class - 8 truck S-cam brake pin bushings instead of anti-seize . Permatex also has Silicone Extreme Ceramic brake parts lubricant . 121/23
@2:39 Damn straight. I helped a friend put a lift kit on his Jeep, and we had to use a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts on each end of the factory bushing sleeves to get the control arms out. The bolts might as well been welded to the sleeves.
Nothing right away, Joe. Perhaps a lot of noise, squeaking and rattling. More concerning is the metal on metal contact from the sleeve rubbing on the bolt. This will wear away at the sleeve, the holes in the tabs and the bolt. This might first cause alignment and tire wear issues, but will eventually lead to breakage of the worn bolt, and a loss of a suspension component. That would suck. The next part is a little more complex; When the sleeve is tightly clamped between the tabs, the tensile forces of the bolt (pulling force between the bolt head and the nut) prevent any movement, so the bolt is only experiencing those tensile forces. When loose, the link bar or control arm can now push and pull sideways on the bolt. (Shear forces) Bolts vary, but generally bolts are stronger under tension than under shear forces. If the bolt is worn, it’s significantly weaker. Summarized: Clamp the sleeve. Hope this helps!
Having done a fair bit of racing in years gone by (Trans Am/GT-1, current and historic) we worked closely with the guys at Pratt&Miller for suspension and stingers. For the most part we used Heim/spherical joints... but in the rare circumstance that we used bushings... we did not use grease. We were instructed to use Walter Rock'n Roll. You can't melt it. Well, you can but it takes 2500° F.
OMG. You answered by hard to answer questions perfectly! Im having a problem with a golf cart bushing where the bushing material seems pinched by the frame and the entire bushing material is rotating around the outer sleeve! I expect the inner bushing to rotate around bolt. I have tightened the bolt to the recommended torque. Thoughts? It creeks when the control arm is moved.
excellent explanation I added grease fitting to the lower A arms of my pt cruiser. I installed the available poly urethane kit. the micro tube of silicone was s joke. Red & Tacky Lithium grease is great never use petroleum grease
@@GarageFab apparently some people think so! And then wonder why their bushing fail!. Thank you for the excellent explanation. I have shared this with many! if they didn’t believe me, maybe they’ll believe you!!
Some awesome advice and comments.... would just like to point out on the washer topic, high tensile lock washers don't and shouldn't wear and break open over time especially when installed the right way round which counts for flat washer aswell, yes they are designed to go a certain way that being flat side to contact surface. On flat washers aswell go the same way and we use them not only to spread load but also to absorb any tearing force from lock washer as it better to replace a washer instead of tabs.
Good info. On lock washers though, I’ve never noticed visible difference in the two sides. Flat washers however, I always put the “domed” side up, but only because I’m OCD. 😆
@GarageFab There is a difference in lock washers aswell as flat there is a rounded side and a flat side, the flat side always faces contact surface and rounded side facing torque surface thus being the nut or bolt
I'm making a push bumper for my truck with a front piece about a foot in front of where the stock bumper was. My question is, can I use the bushings in a vertical orientation so that the side of the bushings support the weight?
I don't know if you'll see this but I do want to note that most bushing assemblies I see have the actual rubber bushing + outer shell extend just a little bit wider than the inner sleeve. Like
Very great video, TIP= Grade 8 is great for street vehicles but the off-road guys in Baja stepped back to grade 5, This is because grade 8 and 10 will break in the desert on impact but grade 5 will bend. A bent bolt can continue the race and a broken bolt takes you out. Just something for your audience to think about for the application they are building for,
That’s fascinating! But it makes a lot of sense. Similar to sockets I guess. I was shocked to find out that impact sockets were actually SOFTER than chrome sockets. The softness allows them to flex and avoid cracking. Totally backwards from what I originally thought.
This was a great video! As for greasing the bolts, you are on the spot, makes no difference in operation but I always choose to grease the bolts when I assemble for corrosion protection. When it goes to engine mounts etc, especially in bikes , no seized bolts!
We’re spoiled here in the desert. If we see rust, we know that car came here from somewhere else. You can call it lazy, but we’re a nearly grease free society.
@@GarageFab you are very lucky! Here, and I mainly speak for ATVs, if you don't grease especially the rear arm axle bolts, you are going to have a very hard time when you will have to remove!
I bought lower control arms from a reputable company that sent me decent rods, but the bushings had already failed before I even got them installed. Since there's a lifetime warranty on their parts, they actually sent me their revised beefier lower control arms. The problem then was the bolts I bought for the previous bushings wouldn't fit in the newer sleeves, so that's something to be wary of when it comes to reusing or replacing bolts.
At 3 minutes the bushing bolts that like to seize to the inner bushings can be improved with a bolt upgrade to ones with a smaller diameter shank section mid way so full shank diameter remains at both ends for half an inch or so. I used a Nissan example that was an updated part for a 97 Pathfinder that came stock with a full seizure style shank that was nothing but fun to remove from the vehicle at 8000km when the bushings were chewed from the inner sleeve outward to but a small fraction of the original. There was no slip to the pivot just holes through the rubber bushing material around the inner sleeve to allow flection. Even with a portion of preload in the direction of travel to allow the flex to first unwind before passing over the static neutral position the first replacement but the rhubarb at 12,000km and I got busy with an Energy kit doing the mods you've been covering here to allow a controlled pivot around a stationary inner sleeve which makes sense I hope when you think about crankshaft main journal diameters and the benefits of the smaller diameters on drag... unless you break them. What an improvement in 4 link plus panhard rear. Doing the same for my 68 Firebird. Always interesting stopping by your shop to see what you're up to.
I would be careful with using a bolt that has a shank that's the exact size of your tabs. Especially since the tabs will deform some when tightening. If you run out of threads your torque wrench will click off but the joint isn't necessary tight. The bolt sees a relatively low load because the bolt is tight(Joint stiffness ratio). If the bolt isn't able to provide enough preload to the inner sleeve then the bolt will see more load than it should. This is why you see bolt holes in tabs get egg shaped because the bolt wasn't tight enough. With that said if you use enough washers to make sure the nut has threads to grab on to then you are golden.
You just got yourself a pinned comment. I appreciate that. “Good point” would be an understatement.
Yea well non issue if you use a lock washer.
I'd rather use a thicker tab than a bunch of washers personally.
@@EricFixalot I certainly wouldn't stack lock washers on anything.
@@bw3506 True, maybe one on each side
Thank you for never assuming that your audience knows what the heck they’re doing. And, more to the point, for never adopting a patronizing attitude when you set things straight. Your build videos have been and continue to be tremendously helpful. Thanks for keeping up the standards and the humanity.
Thank you Jay! That means a lot to me. No one likes to feel stupid. Sometimes it’s a delicate dance to inform without insulting.
@@GarageFab You are much, much better at it than me lol, I can try my damndest to inform without intent of insult, but I don't succeed near as often as I wish I could.
@@rwbodiford Haha! Well it’s not often, but sometimes a little potentially insulting sternness goes a long way.
@@GarageFab Well said
Great information, thank you. The difference between these and OEM is on an OEM bushing the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer barrel. The only movement is the flex of the rubber between the inner and outer metal barrels. That's why when changing things like control arms, you don't torque them up until they are on the ground (or ramps) under their own weight. That way, you are tightening them up in a position in the middle of the suspension's range of motion: In full compression they twist one way, in full droop, they twist the other way. If you tightened them up fully while unladen in the air at full droop, they would be much more likely to tear at full compression because now you are asking the rubber to twist in one direction to cover the full range of the suspension's motion. the take-away: Tighten them while on the ground or they will tear quickly.
Excellent information, Brian. Thank you. You would be surprised how many “knowledgeable” technicians get this wrong.
I was looking for this comment. I've had this discussion with alot of my helpers. "Never tighten rubber suspension bushings with the vehicle jacked up". They won't last 6 months
Not always. Mazda leaf spring bushings have the inner sleeves bonded in but not the outer. They press into the leaf spring eyes and the bushings on the shackles ate not bonded to either. Same for square body chevy trucks and many others.
@@michaelwhite-oi1ft There are always minor exception. Older Grand Cherokees have bushing at the back of the lower A-arms that are bonded to their housings but not the part of the control arm that sides into it. But the front bushings in the same A-arms are fully bonded so you still have to have full weight on the suspension before you torque everything
While we’re at it, Toyota/Lexus also have bushings with bonded inner sleeves that press into an eye and are therefore not bonded on the outside. They are rubber, though, and are not lubricated so I follow the same tightening procedure.
What a fantastic video. No excess blabbering but straight to the point and everything presented in an easily understandable fashion.
Subscribed immediately, just starting on the first project car where I have to rebuild the entire suspension and this kind of info is priceless. Thanks you!
Yes!! I hope to see updates on this build! If you need guidance, you know where to find me!
I would agree great info and to the point. I’m in the process of doing this on my 88gt fiero it’s a resto build a barn find no motor. The car sat for 23 years. All the hardware for the suspension had to be cut off. Or it broke off and the. Had to be cut off. So poly upgrade it is. Your video help refresh my memory on installing them. Thanks.
Exactly. Very easy to follow and worth many more than one watches.
I’ll classify this as one of the best YT vids out there.
Actually very informative to people who don’t know, but also informs the people who THINK they know of proper techniques for safety and durability.
Bravo bro
Thank you Steven! That is quite the honor.
That’s what makes TH-cam so great. You could learn something, even if you thought you already knew it, all in the privacy of your own mind. For those that struggle with self-worth, No one has to know they didn’t know something. Conflict-free learning!
Cheers my friend!
Good video. I have fixed a few 'death wobble' trucks just by installing longer sleeves that lock down when the bolts are torqued. It's amazing how little movement in suspension will create such a large issue
Interesting! I’ve had a few people ask me how to fix death wobble, but I honestly haven’t really experienced it. It’s not a problem we see often in the mini truck world.
Just stumbled across the channel. Finally, somebody is making videos of the small details everyone else's leaves out that are so important. Major companies instructional videos always leave this out. They just say insert and tighten to spec without going into How it's supposed to function with the part that was just installed
More than I ever expected to learn in my lifetime when it comes to bushings. Enjoyed it for sure.
Heck yes! Happy to be of service. Thank you, a Paul.
It's not every day you come across gigachad articulately and concisely explaining something most mechanics and builders would overlook. The more I wrench, the more stuff I learn I don't know. Thanks so much for this video.
FINALLY, a person who KNOWS how to measure a BOLT. Fat too many mechanics tend to think the HEAD size is the size of the bolt and they usually get all bent out of shape when they ask for a 1/2" bolt when they are really after a 5/16" one.
Haha! I’m guilty of that at work. Interesting how my fab life and wrenching life don’t agree. While working on Toyotas with metric fasteners, if say I need a 14mm bolt, I’m NOT talking about the threads. 😂
If they don't know the difference between bolt size and head size, they are not mechanics!
@@GarageFab Eek !
Just bad practice , will bite you some day !
Dude! Fantastic video! I've replaced the suspension bushings on my whole truck myself, but I never before fully understood how the parts function as a set. I am so grateful for this video. You are an excellent teacher.
Thank you for the kind words my friend! Happy to be of service. 🙏
Thank you for pre-empting my "But of course I grease the bolts, because I want to be able to get them back out again some day" comment. :D You're the bomb, dude. :D
Haha! Oh the joys of living in the desert.
@@GarageFab I mean... better the desert than somewhere that rust happens, but yeah, I've definitely had rubber bushings weld themselves to bolts shafts, even living in the 'Burque.
A couple of additional comments - when a ZERK grease point is used, make sure the sleeve is welded in a position where the nipple is accessable with the suspension member fitted to the vehicle - sometimes you can correct this with a 90 or 135 fitting, but not always.
If the fastener uses a castellated nut which takes a split pin, you can usually replace it with a stainless steel "R" clip - they won't rust in place and are easily removed, and they're re-useable.
Depending on the specific application, it may be wise to use a longer bolt than actually required and drill the end, after the retaining nut, for an "R" clip - it doesn't often happen, but if for some reason the nut loosens, the clip will prevent it falling completely off and so prevent the bolt backing out. If you have access, you can do the same thing with bolts into captive nuts.
Something I got from Justin* is to turn up some alloy spacers that are a close fit to the sleeves and use them instead of the 'plastic' insert when tacking parts together - th-cam.com/video/aIGTNU6hG2Q/w-d-xo.html
*He also has a lot of sound advice to compliment this gentleman's advice - www.youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries/featured
All good info! I like the idea of the R clips. Toyota uses those a lot and they’re really classy looking and, as you mentioned, reusable. I think I might have to incorporate those in some stuff soon.
Ah, Justin. Fellow Las Vegas fabby guy. Part of the reason I wanted to become a famous TH-cam fabricator. 😉
Thank you Brother. 🙏
Excellent description of poly bushings - with clear video to explain the function of the main parts. He shows how to get it right, how to get it wrong, and the reasoning behind his simple/vital rules.
I've been watching videos on the subject all morning. Erase all of those, and just watch this. You will save yourself a lot of time, and you'll know exactly what to do.
This probably only applies to the after-market polyurethane bushings. Most OEM bushings are basically melted rubber that is stuck to both the inner and outer sleeves. Then it becomes important to tighten these bushings with the control arm at rest or “normal ride height” or the bushing will be twisted when the vehicle is on the ground.
You are correct Victor. I probably should have made that more clear. It’s surprising how often I see technicians installing control arms with bonded rubber bushings and tightening up the bolts on the lift. 🤦🏻♂️
With polyurethane bushings, the sleeve is not bonded and is designed to slip, so it doesn’t matter when you tighten the bolts.
Thank you Victor!
@@GarageFab BONDED!! That’s the word I was looking for… then I had to go and say “melted rubber blah blah blah” LMAO. Anyway, your video is perfectly clear as it pertains to exactly what you are talking about. My comment is more off-base, although related. I appreciate the great content on your channel and how clearly you explain it all!
I appreciate you back, Victor! Cheers.
@@GarageFab Oh I'm glad I came back to this video and read the comments, I am replacing OEM with MOOG OEM-like bushings and got spooked haha. Thanks for making the video and clarifying that, I had no idea there was a difference!
Yes Sir! Big difference! Bonded rubber bushings aren’t meant for large amounts of twisting movement. So after installing your new bushings, make sure you set the vehicle down before fully tightening up the bolts. That can be really hard especially if your vehicle is low, but your bushings will thank you.
It may sound inappropriate for some but… you’re like a god for me when it comes to this area of expertise. Amen! …and thank you, yet again!
Haha! I think that implies that I am a guru of sorts. I’m definitely not that. I only have a firm grasp on the basics, and a willingness to share the little bit that I know. There are people that know far more than I do, just finding ones that teach can be a challenge.
Regardless, thank you Michał! So very happy to have you.
Yessss! Now that was a great and well articulated run down of suspension bushings and components. Even if you’re not fabricating and all you’re doing is installing bolt on components like mid or long travel kits this is something you should be aware of. Make sure the manufacturer is giving you quality parts
Yes!! So many people talk crap about certain types of suspension parts when really it’s just low quality stuff.
Thank you my friend!
This is a spot on video! Everything he said is correct. I’m talking as a tool&die maker with 50+ years experience. Really well done! Thank you!
Thank you, David! That’s a joy to hear. I appreciate you my friend. 🙏
Yes, I am a through bolt rust prevention greaser. Thanks. Great video to help everyone understand bushings, and how important it is to have them correctly built, and installed.
Haha! A bolt greaser! Something tells me you see snow once in a while. ❄️
@@GarageFab Welcome to the UK. Everything rusts this time of year. Every time I work on one of my cars the Mrs. asks why my cloths are covered in 'gold glitter'.
Haha! Excellent.
@@GarageFab can't stand anti seize and hate it with a passion it's trash.
CV joint grease works a heck of a lot better at least for me.
@@MrTheHillfolk What's wrong with anti-seize?
This was an excellent video. Explaining not only what to do, but what not to do and why in an easy to understand manner without sounding patronizing. As others have said, that can be a tricky balance to find when teaching. Nicely done.
Thank you, Ken! 🙏
Best teacher on the web man!!
🙏 Thank you my man!
Agreed
I would agree with that statement!!
Hell yeah🫡
@@soltribeprojects2055 Thank you friends. 🙏 I’m honored.
You are the Dr. House of Suspension Fabrication
I appreciate that, Tim! But actually I’m just a guy with a TH-cam channel pretending to be knowledgeable.
Thank you for watching my friend!
What a nice job of describing the correct way to mount a bushing assembly! The bushings I’m using specify white lithium grease in case anyone didn’t get that information with their bushings. I use drum brake bearing grease(stringy stiff grease) on the bolts and, a bit of red loctite in the nuts to make sure they stay put.
Good info! Thank you David. Much appreciated. 🙏
@@GarageFabv n x cm xn hmm xmZ vs
Z vs n
Wish I had found your videos in the late 90's when I had the time, energy, and interest in doing this stuff. Just got a bunch of bulletin boards full of guys telling me if I could afford to drop $100 on something instead of making my own, then the hobby wasn't for me.
That was a really good video! I watched all 6 minutes and 52 seconds, thank you for making everything all nice and concise :D
My pleasure Nick! Thank you for donating your 6 minutes and 52 seconds. 🙏
See you next time!
Of all the bushing videos I've seen, this is the only one that gives such specific details. Thank you for this!
My pleasure, Julio. Thank you for your time. 🙏
I was checking up on intake manifolds for my Toyota engine, and then your video came up, recommended by the TH-cam algorithm.
As much as I am an idiot when it comes to bushings - your video provided great insights and a concise explanation on what bushings should be.
Also, thumbs up to hearing from a Toyota-certified professional!
Thank you from Singapore!
Exactly why I follow and watch your content, I don't want to just know what works, BUT WHY IT WORKS.
As always, super informative, intelligently simple and concise. A++
Ah! We were cut from the same cloth. There is nothing more important than the WHY! Thank you my friend. 🙏 See you in the next.
You never know everything my father use to tell me and try to learn something new every day and i just did!!! You are a really good teacher my hat off to you! Thank you for your education and my learning. Joe
My pleasure, Joe! I couldn’t agree more with your Father. There’s no known limit to what the human mind can learn. It’s fun to try though! 👊
Yes your mostly correct. Engineering standards generally ask for no more and no less than 3 threads protruding after the assembly. So if you need to trim, use that as a guide!
This is the first time I’ve heard “no more than 3 threads” aside from aesthetics. What’s the reason for avoiding, say, 8 threads?
@@GarageFab wasted material. Think about the extra 0.0005 cents that could cost per year!
@@GarageFab hey Toyota owner and mech engineer here...love this post and will follow you. I'm about to do RR bushings on an 05 Highlander....so I went down this protrusion rabbit hole and unless there's a chance equipment or people will get damaged, extra protrusion is no risk...seems there is an aspect of using #threads to do a verification of bolt stretch if the design needs it....other than that, have one thread if you wish. ...so long as you have full nut engagement when the assembly starts seeing load during tightening. Cheers from rusty upstate NY!
That’s good info! Happy to have you my friend.
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. My front suspension was squeaking while going over small bumps. Took me a while to diagnose the noise. It was due to the control arm bolts being a tad bit loose. Got it tightened at the service centre.
Yes! Happy to be of service.
Escellent video again. You keep addressing things that I am currently dealing with. Love it.
Interesting! Is it possible you have a creepy TH-camr stalker? Just kidding. I’m not the type to look in peoples windows. Usually.
@@GarageFab That's why I keep the blinds shut.
I like how at first you asked what's wrong. I didn't know what I was looking at, but as you went through it, I could start seeing what was wrong. It was so helpful!
Yes! Happy to help my friend. Thank you for that. 🙏
I've never really built a full suspension but I have converted several different types to poly. All this seems very obvious to me but I guess I was learning on things that were pre-engineered. Thanks for the tip on where to get ends.
True. I think all the times I’ve seen mistakes where when people tried to make their own bushings. And once from a small company that sold custom control arms. They’re not in business anymore. 🤔
The with of the outside of the bushing you measured was 2 9/16" I didn't see that on the list .🤪🤔 .awesome video
Good catch! Must be estimates in the list then.
Some stock rubber bushings are fused to both sleeves and you can expect a short service life followed by a rear steering wobbling nightmare unless you make a provision for the bushing to pivot. A bronze sleeve between the bolt and slightly opened inner sleeve is a great mod when feasible. Early polyurethane bushings had a tendency on rare occasions to squeak but only while driving unless you ignored their instructions for no lubricant.
The bronze sleeve is a fascinating idea. Rubber bushings are great for absorbing road vibration but absolutely terrible on high travel bagged vehicles. I’m all about polyurethane but gotta admit your suggestion sounds interesting. Hire do you tighten the through bolt and keep it tight? 🤔
@@GarageFab I make the innermost bushing proud and on the second one onwards turned an o-ring groove on both ends of the bushing plus a clearance groove in the sleeve that allowed grease to completely fill the pivot and move any wear fragments over the o-ring. The improvement in lubrication with impregnated bronze as the bushing material and 0.020" of added clearance in the central part of the sleeve was enough to extend the service life to where it no longer needed to be replaced just greased with oil changes. This was on a 97 Pathfinder after wearing out the factory bushings plus an updated version and 2 polyurethane sets. It became a challenge.
Wow! So cool to hear you reference Max. He explained how an engine worked in the back of class when we were in high school. Awesome guy.
That sounds like him! It’s interesting… I’ve never met the guy yet I feel and talk like I know him. Prolly creepy now that I say it out loud. 😳
Best not to use polyurethane where you can avoid it, as it tends to transmit a lot more of the high frequency stuff, especially because sizing is usually not done well (ie; the intaller doesn't know what the forces are or the range of compliance needed). This is especially true of engine mounts, where lack of compliance can kill alternators etc.
Compliance problems are usually worst around 4 bar linkages, with triangulated 4 bars needing lots of compliance to work... Normally it's better to go for parallel 4 bars plus a watts link, it gives better control, less compliance interference with suspension behaviours etc and is simpler to calculate loads.
Similarly, the type of bushing you're demonstrating here has very little lateral bearing capacity, it only bears on the edges of the steel tubes, so lateral loads are a big no no and should be oriented purpendicular to the link tube (unlike the triangulated 4 bar demonstrated).
Finally, bolted joints are considered to be failed when they slip, so the end of thread is (or should be) totally irrelevant, if it fails it's because it's slipped and failed under impact loads, resultant from the post failure movement. Size bolts so you've got at least one fully formed thread on the unloaded side of the bolted joint, but no other aspect is critical unless you're engaging onto the unformed threads of the shank, which WILL result in premature failure. The only parts involved in the joint behaviour should be the inner tube, clamped between the two flanges and the bolt it's self. The friction between the outer flanges and the tube are the only forces through which the joint should operate.
That was an insane amount of fascinating information. My biggest 😳 moment was alternator failure from poly engine mounts. What’s happening to cause that?!
Thank you for taking the time to right all that. You are appreciated, Drew.
@@GarageFab thanks, I appreciate it.
Poly engine mounts or rigid engine mounts can cause alternator failure because they don't absorb high frequency vibrations in the same way that traditional engine mounts do. You can get electronic or winding failure as a result of the increased fatigue loads.
GM makes some awesome hydraulic engine mounts that are studded on both ends and are basically awesome as a universal mount (LS/LT mounts).
And happy to help btw
Good info. I installed a triangulated 4 link on my truck. When I supported the truck with jack stands on the frame unloading the suspension, I could move the rear end side to side with my hands on the tires. The bushings were loose between the flanges after tightening to recommend torque. How should I correct this issue?
@@Jack-dm8lj are you fabbing the setup yourself? And are you particularly wedded to the idea of a triangulated 4 link? What do you want to use it for and how much travel do you want?
@@drew79s I purchased a kit from speedway. It is installed on a 1952 chevy pu. The brackets were cnc welded and made ready to attach to the frame and rear end housing. I removed the end links and shaved about a 16 of an inch off the inner sleeves. They tightened up nicely. Did I screw up? lol
Finally someone explains it. This topic has driven me crazy dealing with 4x4's, low riders, etc. It's always fooked.
Haha! Happy to help, Brock. Thanks for watching.
I feel like I just met the Chuck Norris of suspension or something.👽
Just found this video randomly, I automatically subscribed after watching.
Happy you found us! See you in the next 👊
Absolutely enjoy it when the smart people are annoyed.🤣✌😁
As do I Jason! Nothing better than getting comments from the annoyed smart people though. Very fulfilling!
Silicone based brake lube is one of the most underrated tools by a lot of mechanics. It's rubber and plastic safe.
Being brake lube, it won't run when the temperature goes up. AND it really takes the fight out of hoses, o rings, or intake ducts. A very light coat on both surfaces and things usually just click into place.
Thanks for this information
I have a old 85 cavalier with a rusted up subframe. A arm is alright. But had a buddy do some welding on it. I think I should take it back off and redo it. Thanks again
My pleasure Marty. Lemme know how things go!
Good on you thanks , working with suspension specialist yrs ago ,he would soak bolts in diesal before installing,and every one had hole after nut for split pin ,a fair amount of the work end up on race track ,when I asked about pins he said,it's the 2 dollar piece of mind factor
I would never disagree with peace of mind! Going the extra mile rarely causes problems. Thank you, Jeffrey!
Why the diesel soak for the bolts?
Great simple terms to convey an understanding of this. One short video and you got yourself another subscriber.
Welcome to the channel my friend! Thank you! See you in the next.
(Love your TH-cam name by the way.)
Fantastic video. Nice to see the inner working of something as simple as a bushing. I didn't know the inner sleeve shouldn't rotate. Learned something new! 😊
Thank you Jaydon! 👊
I came across this via the algorithim and just wow I learned so much in so little time. Now I feel like taking a second look at my suspension. I appreciate you making this video! Can you make another on asking your boss for another 1 month break? lol
Thank you my friend! Happy to help.
Yes! I’ll start immediately on the video, “How to Write a Two-Week Notice” 🙌
You use a unique drill bit to drill the holes in your brackets (piloted). Can you let us know where you get them? Sorry if this has been asked and answered already.
Hey, Mark! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own…
Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ
Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5
Thank you. I was worried I was doing them wrong but I’ve been doing them exactly that way. Also just noticed the Keep Moving Forward sign very awesome.
Yes! Thank you Kevin. 🙏 Keep an eye on the sign. I’ve got some interesting plans in mind for it.
@@GarageFab 👊🏻awesome
This right here, clear info with reasoning that's east to understand. Also the engagement and pinned comment make this a clear win. Followed, thumbed, keep this coming. It's nice to see someone care about the details especially enough to acknowledge when a comment has merit to reinforce their point.
Dude! You are killing it! Clear, concise, all excelent info, no bs fluff. More TH-camrs should take note.
Thank you for all your hard work. Keep it up!
A+. Subbed
Thank you my friend! Thrilled to have you. See you in the next!
I really appreciate you specifying the SOURCE of all the information. Without that, all this would be just opinion.
Another reason for going with grade 8 bolts (but this is just opinion) is that they have better coatings against rust. Am I wrong?
I honestly don’t know the answer to that! I know they’re coated, and I know it’s different than your typical zinc plating, but I don’t know what the difference is. I’ll have to look it up.
Excellent educational vid. After seeing your video I immediately can see what is wrong with the installation before your vid. Great job!
Very nice! Thank you Bret. 🙏
I'm not expecting to be fabricating suspension components any time soon but this is just excellent automotive general knowledge regardless, along with a tonne more posted by experienced and knowledgeable folks in the comments. Great stuff, instant sub!
this is a vid every mini trucker needs to watch and some need to watch twice hahah . good work sir !
Yes Sir! I made it just so I could watch it whenever I started a new build. 😂 Thank you, Ken!
I was a heavy duty truck mechanic for most of my life. I've never fabricated suspension parts. I've never used urethane bushings just rubber press in bushing assemblies. Assemble suspension parts, lower vehicle to apply full weight to suspension, tighten center bushing bolt, the rubber bushings I used were not greasable. You just used a little grease on the outer metal sleeve to help when pressing bushing into the spring eye.
I am aware of most of the points you are making, but the fact that you can/should grease urethane bushings was something I was not aware of.
From my understanding grease isn’t necessary from a longevity standpoint. They’ll operate just fine dry. Polyurethane is quite noisy.
Imagine a group of balloon animals wrestling.
The lube is simply to alleviate the hyper annoying squeak.
Since terminology is important, the fitting where grease is introduced is called a hydraulic grease fitting😊. But everyone calls it a zero fitting. But this video is very well made, thank you.
assuming a typo "zerk"
Thanks for the information, I had to change the rear end in my Nissan Pathfinder because I was hit in the side right on the rear wheel and it bent the rear housing. When I tightened the bushings the nuts were self locking so I wasn't sure if the inner sleeve rotated around the bolt or not. I decided to go ahead and tighten the bolts since they were tight when I removed them. Now that I know that the bushing rotates around the inner sleeve I know I did it correctly.
Here’s a little additional info that I neglected to include in the video Dave.
I’m assuming your bushings were factory, and if so, they’re probably bonded rubber. These type of bushings are still fully tightened as mentioned, but they should not be tightened until the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. If you tighten them with the wheels off the ground, the bushings will twist when you set the vehicle down, and this will cause your bushings to tear prematurely.
If this is the case, I would simply recommend loosening the bolts without lifting the truck and then tighten them again. The inner bushing should spring back to its natural position.
Yup thats exactly how i been doing them i use grade 8 black bolt with crimp nuts like factory nuts notice the lock washer will spread every once an awhile this is a great video for guys doing at home this video can save lives cuz suspension failure is critical
Very much appreciated, Jessica! Share with someone you think would benefit! Cheers.
I just found your channel....Nice video! many years ago, someone said to me "never use anything less grade 8 on vehicles with stressed or weight bearing. Like the engine in my 1946 Harley knuckle-head. or my 1972 corvette. They are both old beaters, but the running gear is very tight.
Well done, thorough explanation & how to on urethane bushing assy. I might suggest a complete coating of the through bolt w/ Neva Seize, rather than grease to prevent rust bonding of the bolt to the sleeve, if you live in a damp climate or your state uses ice melting chemicals on it's roads.
Neva Seize doesn't seem to accumulate dirt as bad as grease & will last much longer than grease. I switched to the copper based version quite some time ago, it's slightly less messy, is supposed to perform better.
Explained very well I’ve run into that myself I’ve been working on cars for 40 years and working on peoples mistakes
Thank you my friend! 🙏
Please take a moment to appreciate the transition effects in the video... bravo!
Glad someone noticed August! Thank you, my friend! 🙏
Great video. Threads will also wallow out the hole in the tab faster then the bolt shank. thanks!
Agreed! But if that happens I think it’s a sign the bolt wasn’t tight enough.
Very informative videos. I've done this for years and I know the tolerances need to be damn near perfect when dealing with rod ends and bushings. But, I like to see someone else out there that knows what they are doing also. Good videos man. Keep up the good teaching on all you do.
Thank You, Daniel! I appreciate your kind words. 🍻
Good Stuff! I watched it twice to make sure I got it. Thanks for sharing your expertise MC! Cheers from Motown.
My pleasure, Robert! Thank you. 🙏
Good info vid, thanks.
My first rebush failed within a month. The body men asked "Didja lube 'em?" Crimson me said "Oh." That was an easy fix. Two 1990 F-150 rear leafs quiet once again. Dick Cepek parts had no installation tips sheet with them.
There are a lot of aftermarket parts like that. Not sure why. Perhaps they assume, “Dudes are gonna install this. Dudes throw out instructions so what’s the point.”
Be aware that there are varying qualities of polyurethane as well. So grease with silicone based lubes and stick with reputable brands like Energy and Daystar.
Excellent and informative videos. Very exciting channel to find!
Thanks for not making things longer than necessary to hit the 10 minute-mark!
My pleasure, Brandon! Thank you for watching.
Toyota mechanics were the best in town during the 1980's when I was a young fella. I worked at a Toyota dealership after a Ford dealership and 2 years of mechanic Tech School. Before all that was a Navy Engineer for 6 years.
We Toyota mechanics are still amazing. 😉 Sounds like you’ve had all kinds of experience!
Put a chamfer on the bolt hole in the tab. Without the chamfer the square hole will put a stress riser on the head of the bolt.
Finally learned something very simple I thought I knew, until I watched this video. Thank you bro! Keep it up.
Thank you! This is exactly what i needed to find tonight as im trying to fix a super duty traction bar that isnt available from the manufacturer anymore and the aftermarket isnt built correctly... 👍
Nice! Lemme know how it goes. I’m here if you need further guidance. 👍
Another of the most useful videos I've ever seen, and the other one was your u-joint video. AMAZINGLY GOOD content!!
Thank you my friend! That means a lot to me. 🙏 ❤️
Permatex silicone paste works well on the through bolts , it is water resistant , lubricates , and is safe on rubber parts . I also use this product on Class - 8 truck S-cam brake pin bushings instead of anti-seize .
Permatex also has Silicone Extreme Ceramic brake parts lubricant . 121/23
I like it. I just like the way it looks, and it’s far less messy/annoying than anti-seize.
Appreciated, Vic!
@2:39 Damn straight. I helped a friend put a lift kit on his Jeep, and we had to use a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts on each end of the factory bushing sleeves to get the control arms out. The bolts might as well been welded to the sleeves.
Yup! We’ve had a few 4Runners come to our desert oasis from somewhere a little more rusty and we’ve had to do exactly that.
Thanks for sharing. for explaining every detail . I like the way those tab's can be maid.
My pleasure, Angel. Thank you!
Excellent video.
Curious ... What happens if the sleeve is able to rotate while in use ?
Nothing right away, Joe. Perhaps a lot of noise, squeaking and rattling. More concerning is the metal on metal contact from the sleeve rubbing on the bolt. This will wear away at the sleeve, the holes in the tabs and the bolt. This might first cause alignment and tire wear issues, but will eventually lead to breakage of the worn bolt, and a loss of a suspension component. That would suck.
The next part is a little more complex; When the sleeve is tightly clamped between the tabs, the tensile forces of the bolt (pulling force between the bolt head and the nut) prevent any movement, so the bolt is only experiencing those tensile forces. When loose, the link bar or control arm can now push and pull sideways on the bolt. (Shear forces)
Bolts vary, but generally bolts are stronger under tension than under shear forces. If the bolt is worn, it’s significantly weaker.
Summarized: Clamp the sleeve.
Hope this helps!
Having done a fair bit of racing in years gone by (Trans Am/GT-1, current and historic) we worked closely with the guys at Pratt&Miller for suspension and stingers. For the most part we used Heim/spherical joints... but in the rare circumstance that we used bushings... we did not use grease. We were instructed to use Walter Rock'n Roll. You can't melt it. Well, you can but it takes 2500° F.
OMG. You answered by hard to answer questions perfectly! Im having a problem with a golf cart bushing where the bushing material seems pinched by the frame and the entire bushing material is rotating around the outer sleeve! I expect the inner bushing to rotate around bolt. I have tightened the bolt to the recommended torque. Thoughts? It creeks when the control arm is moved.
It sounds like bushing sizes might be incorrect or perhaps they’re just worn.
Any chance you can shoot me a photo?
GarageFab702@gmail.com
excellent explanation I added grease fitting to the lower A arms of my pt cruiser. I installed the available poly urethane kit. the micro tube of silicone was s joke. Red & Tacky Lithium grease is great never use petroleum grease
Are you saying 4 drops of grease isn’t enough? 😆
@@GarageFab apparently some people think so! And then wonder why their bushing fail!. Thank you for the excellent explanation. I have shared this with many! if they didn’t believe me, maybe they’ll believe you!!
Thank you my friend. 🙏 Sharing helps more than you know. I appreciate it.
Awsome clear and concise video. Thank you! I've never built a suspension, but I plan on building jeep wrangler just with a frame and a tub
Thank you! Sounds like a fun project. If you need guidance, you know where to find me. Best of luck!
Some awesome advice and comments.... would just like to point out on the washer topic, high tensile lock washers don't and shouldn't wear and break open over time especially when installed the right way round which counts for flat washer aswell, yes they are designed to go a certain way that being flat side to contact surface. On flat washers aswell go the same way and we use them not only to spread load but also to absorb any tearing force from lock washer as it better to replace a washer instead of tabs.
Good info. On lock washers though, I’ve never noticed visible difference in the two sides. Flat washers however, I always put the “domed” side up, but only because I’m OCD. 😆
@GarageFab There is a difference in lock washers aswell as flat there is a rounded side and a flat side, the flat side always faces contact surface and rounded side facing torque surface thus being the nut or bolt
I'm making a push bumper for my truck with a front piece about a foot in front of where the stock bumper was. My question is, can I use the bushings in a vertical orientation so that the side of the bushings support the weight?
You are helping many be much less bad at what they do. This PSA brought to you by MANKANDY!
Hahaha! “Less bad”. That’s the goal. Thank you!
I was taught to give everything a solid coating of anti-seize. When your replacing bushings, you can tell a huge difference on disassembly
If you’re anywhere rust lives. Yes. Absolutely. Coat it up!!
Here in Vegas, anti-seize or grease will just be really really annoying.
Excellent description and detail. I’ve never even worked on a cars suspension, and I liked this.
Nice! Thank you for the kind words my friend.
I don't know if you'll see this but I do want to note that most bushing assemblies I see have the actual rubber bushing + outer shell extend just a little bit wider than the inner sleeve. Like
So nice to have a direct and to-the-point Instruction video. Great Editing
Thank you
Very great video,
TIP= Grade 8 is great for street vehicles but the off-road guys in Baja stepped back to grade 5, This is because grade 8 and 10 will break in the desert on impact but grade 5 will bend. A bent bolt can continue the race and a broken bolt takes you out. Just something for your audience to think about for the application they are building for,
That’s fascinating! But it makes a lot of sense. Similar to sockets I guess. I was shocked to find out that impact sockets were actually SOFTER than chrome sockets. The softness allows them to flex and avoid cracking. Totally backwards from what I originally thought.
Cool tips! I will say you always want the unthreaded part on a bushing. The threads will bite into and wear out the bushing over time and create play.
This was a great video!
As for greasing the bolts, you are on the spot, makes no difference in operation but I always choose to grease the bolts when I assemble for corrosion protection.
When it goes to engine mounts etc, especially in bikes , no seized bolts!
We’re spoiled here in the desert. If we see rust, we know that car came here from somewhere else. You can call it lazy, but we’re a nearly grease free society.
@@GarageFab you are very lucky!
Here, and I mainly speak for ATVs, if you don't grease especially the rear arm axle bolts, you are going to have a very hard time when you will have to remove!
I believe it! 😆
Thanks for explaining this I’m just getting ready to build my first suspension links on my 49 willys
I think back to this video on occasion, and am glad it popped up in my feed again. Thank you for teaching us.
My pleasure Danny! Thank you for your repeated attention.
great explanation for a 'simple' yet important component
Thank you my friend. 🙏
Like the way you add the 'why' behind the what to do and not to do.
Thank you Michael! The holy why has long been the most important thing to me. It makes confusing topics far easier to grasp and easier to remember.
Good to know. I've been working on/building vehicles for forty plus years and no one bothered to tell me this. Thanks.
My pleasure, Gary! I’m also still learning stuff daily.
I bought lower control arms from a reputable company that sent me decent rods, but the bushings had already failed before I even got them installed. Since there's a lifetime warranty on their parts, they actually sent me their revised beefier lower control arms. The problem then was the bolts I bought for the previous bushings wouldn't fit in the newer sleeves, so that's something to be wary of when it comes to reusing or replacing bolts.
I have never heard of bushings sailing before install! 🤦🏻♂️ What “reputable” company was this?
So did you get everything figured out?
At 3 minutes the bushing bolts that like to seize to the inner bushings can be improved with a bolt upgrade to ones with a smaller diameter shank section mid way so full shank diameter remains at both ends for half an inch or so. I used a Nissan example that was an updated part for a 97 Pathfinder that came stock with a full seizure style shank that was nothing but fun to remove from the vehicle at 8000km when the bushings were chewed from the inner sleeve outward to but a small fraction of the original. There was no slip to the pivot just holes through the rubber bushing material around the inner sleeve to allow flection. Even with a portion of preload in the direction of travel to allow the flex to first unwind before passing over the static neutral position the first replacement but the rhubarb at 12,000km and I got busy with an Energy kit doing the mods you've been covering here to allow a controlled pivot around a stationary inner sleeve which makes sense I hope when you think about crankshaft main journal diameters and the benefits of the smaller diameters on drag... unless you break them. What an improvement in 4 link plus panhard rear.
Doing the same for my 68 Firebird.
Always interesting stopping by your shop to see what you're up to.
I learn a lot watching your videos.
Your editing dept. gets an A+
thank you
Haha! I’ll let him know. Thank you Gary! Happy to be of service.