The DOs and DON’Ts When Installing Polyurethane Suspension Bushings
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2023
- There's a right way and a whole lot of wrong ways to install bushings. It isn't as straight forward as you'd think. Here's a quick how-to that will help guide you through assembling your suspension bushings properly.
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I would be careful with using a bolt that has a shank that's the exact size of your tabs. Especially since the tabs will deform some when tightening. If you run out of threads your torque wrench will click off but the joint isn't necessary tight. The bolt sees a relatively low load because the bolt is tight(Joint stiffness ratio). If the bolt isn't able to provide enough preload to the inner sleeve then the bolt will see more load than it should. This is why you see bolt holes in tabs get egg shaped because the bolt wasn't tight enough. With that said if you use enough washers to make sure the nut has threads to grab on to then you are golden.
You just got yourself a pinned comment. I appreciate that. “Good point” would be an understatement.
Yea well non issue if you use a lock washer.
I'd rather use a thicker tab than a bunch of washers personally.
@@EricFixalot I certainly wouldn't stack lock washers on anything.
@@bw3506 True, maybe one on each side
Thank you for never assuming that your audience knows what the heck they’re doing. And, more to the point, for never adopting a patronizing attitude when you set things straight. Your build videos have been and continue to be tremendously helpful. Thanks for keeping up the standards and the humanity.
Thank you Jay! That means a lot to me. No one likes to feel stupid. Sometimes it’s a delicate dance to inform without insulting.
@@GarageFab You are much, much better at it than me lol, I can try my damndest to inform without intent of insult, but I don't succeed near as often as I wish I could.
@@rwbodiford Haha! Well it’s not often, but sometimes a little potentially insulting sternness goes a long way.
@@GarageFab Well said
Great information, thank you. The difference between these and OEM is on an OEM bushing the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer barrel. The only movement is the flex of the rubber between the inner and outer metal barrels. That's why when changing things like control arms, you don't torque them up until they are on the ground (or ramps) under their own weight. That way, you are tightening them up in a position in the middle of the suspension's range of motion: In full compression they twist one way, in full droop, they twist the other way. If you tightened them up fully while unladen in the air at full droop, they would be much more likely to tear at full compression because now you are asking the rubber to twist in one direction to cover the full range of the suspension's motion. the take-away: Tighten them while on the ground or they will tear quickly.
Excellent information, Brian. Thank you. You would be surprised how many “knowledgeable” technicians get this wrong.
I was looking for this comment. I've had this discussion with alot of my helpers. "Never tighten rubber suspension bushings with the vehicle jacked up". They won't last 6 months
Not always. Mazda leaf spring bushings have the inner sleeves bonded in but not the outer. They press into the leaf spring eyes and the bushings on the shackles ate not bonded to either. Same for square body chevy trucks and many others.
@@michaelwhite-oi1ft There are always minor exception. Older Grand Cherokees have bushing at the back of the lower A-arms that are bonded to their housings but not the part of the control arm that sides into it. But the front bushings in the same A-arms are fully bonded so you still have to have full weight on the suspension before you torque everything
While we’re at it, Toyota/Lexus also have bushings with bonded inner sleeves that press into an eye and are therefore not bonded on the outside. They are rubber, though, and are not lubricated so I follow the same tightening procedure.
Good video. I have fixed a few 'death wobble' trucks just by installing longer sleeves that lock down when the bolts are torqued. It's amazing how little movement in suspension will create such a large issue
Interesting! I’ve had a few people ask me how to fix death wobble, but I honestly haven’t really experienced it. It’s not a problem we see often in the mini truck world.
What a fantastic video. No excess blabbering but straight to the point and everything presented in an easily understandable fashion.
Subscribed immediately, just starting on the first project car where I have to rebuild the entire suspension and this kind of info is priceless. Thanks you!
Yes!! I hope to see updates on this build! If you need guidance, you know where to find me!
I would agree great info and to the point. I’m in the process of doing this on my 88gt fiero it’s a resto build a barn find no motor. The car sat for 23 years. All the hardware for the suspension had to be cut off. Or it broke off and the. Had to be cut off. So poly upgrade it is. Your video help refresh my memory on installing them. Thanks.
Exactly. Very easy to follow and worth many more than one watches.
Dude! Fantastic video! I've replaced the suspension bushings on my whole truck myself, but I never before fully understood how the parts function as a set. I am so grateful for this video. You are an excellent teacher.
Thank you for the kind words my friend! Happy to be of service. 🙏
Just stumbled across the channel. Finally, somebody is making videos of the small details everyone else's leaves out that are so important. Major companies instructional videos always leave this out. They just say insert and tighten to spec without going into How it's supposed to function with the part that was just installed
More than I ever expected to learn in my lifetime when it comes to bushings. Enjoyed it for sure.
Heck yes! Happy to be of service. Thank you, a Paul.
I’ll classify this as one of the best YT vids out there.
Actually very informative to people who don’t know, but also informs the people who THINK they know of proper techniques for safety and durability.
Bravo bro
Thank you Steven! That is quite the honor.
That’s what makes TH-cam so great. You could learn something, even if you thought you already knew it, all in the privacy of your own mind. For those that struggle with self-worth, No one has to know they didn’t know something. Conflict-free learning!
Cheers my friend!
Wow! So cool to hear you reference Max. He explained how an engine worked in the back of class when we were in high school. Awesome guy.
That sounds like him! It’s interesting… I’ve never met the guy yet I feel and talk like I know him. Prolly creepy now that I say it out loud. 😳
This was an excellent video. Explaining not only what to do, but what not to do and why in an easy to understand manner without sounding patronizing. As others have said, that can be a tricky balance to find when teaching. Nicely done.
Thank you, Ken! 🙏
Yessss! Now that was a great and well articulated run down of suspension bushings and components. Even if you’re not fabricating and all you’re doing is installing bolt on components like mid or long travel kits this is something you should be aware of. Make sure the manufacturer is giving you quality parts
Yes!! So many people talk crap about certain types of suspension parts when really it’s just low quality stuff.
Thank you my friend!
What a nice job of describing the correct way to mount a bushing assembly! The bushings I’m using specify white lithium grease in case anyone didn’t get that information with their bushings. I use drum brake bearing grease(stringy stiff grease) on the bolts and, a bit of red loctite in the nuts to make sure they stay put.
Good info! Thank you David. Much appreciated. 🙏
@@GarageFabv n x cm xn hmm xmZ vs
Z vs n
Very informative videos. I've done this for years and I know the tolerances need to be damn near perfect when dealing with rod ends and bushings. But, I like to see someone else out there that knows what they are doing also. Good videos man. Keep up the good teaching on all you do.
Thank You, Daniel! I appreciate your kind words. 🍻
Thank you. I was worried I was doing them wrong but I’ve been doing them exactly that way. Also just noticed the Keep Moving Forward sign very awesome.
Yes! Thank you Kevin. 🙏 Keep an eye on the sign. I’ve got some interesting plans in mind for it.
@@GarageFab 👊🏻awesome
FINALLY, a person who KNOWS how to measure a BOLT. Fat too many mechanics tend to think the HEAD size is the size of the bolt and they usually get all bent out of shape when they ask for a 1/2" bolt when they are really after a 5/16" one.
Haha! I’m guilty of that at work. Interesting how my fab life and wrenching life don’t agree. While working on Toyotas with metric fasteners, if say I need a 14mm bolt, I’m NOT talking about the threads. 😂
Yes, I am a through bolt rust prevention greaser. Thanks. Great video to help everyone understand bushings, and how important it is to have them correctly built, and installed.
Haha! A bolt greaser! Something tells me you see snow once in a while. ❄️
@@GarageFab Welcome to the UK. Everything rusts this time of year. Every time I work on one of my cars the Mrs. asks why my cloths are covered in 'gold glitter'.
Haha! Excellent.
@@GarageFab can't stand anti seize and hate it with a passion it's trash.
CV joint grease works a heck of a lot better at least for me.
@@MrTheHillfolk What's wrong with anti-seize?
A couple of additional comments - when a ZERK grease point is used, make sure the sleeve is welded in a position where the nipple is accessable with the suspension member fitted to the vehicle - sometimes you can correct this with a 90 or 135 fitting, but not always.
If the fastener uses a castellated nut which takes a split pin, you can usually replace it with a stainless steel "R" clip - they won't rust in place and are easily removed, and they're re-useable.
Depending on the specific application, it may be wise to use a longer bolt than actually required and drill the end, after the retaining nut, for an "R" clip - it doesn't often happen, but if for some reason the nut loosens, the clip will prevent it falling completely off and so prevent the bolt backing out. If you have access, you can do the same thing with bolts into captive nuts.
Something I got from Justin* is to turn up some alloy spacers that are a close fit to the sleeves and use them instead of the 'plastic' insert when tacking parts together - th-cam.com/video/aIGTNU6hG2Q/w-d-xo.html
*He also has a lot of sound advice to compliment this gentleman's advice - www.youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries/featured
All good info! I like the idea of the R clips. Toyota uses those a lot and they’re really classy looking and, as you mentioned, reusable. I think I might have to incorporate those in some stuff soon.
Ah, Justin. Fellow Las Vegas fabby guy. Part of the reason I wanted to become a famous TH-cam fabricator. 😉
Thank you Brother. 🙏
This is a spot on video! Everything he said is correct. I’m talking as a tool&die maker with 50+ years experience. Really well done! Thank you!
Thank you, David! That’s a joy to hear. I appreciate you my friend. 🙏
That was a really good video! I watched all 6 minutes and 52 seconds, thank you for making everything all nice and concise :D
My pleasure Nick! Thank you for donating your 6 minutes and 52 seconds. 🙏
See you next time!
Escellent video again. You keep addressing things that I am currently dealing with. Love it.
Interesting! Is it possible you have a creepy TH-camr stalker? Just kidding. I’m not the type to look in peoples windows. Usually.
@@GarageFab That's why I keep the blinds shut.
So nice to have a direct and to-the-point Instruction video. Great Editing
Thank you
Awsome clear and concise video. Thank you! I've never built a suspension, but I plan on building jeep wrangler just with a frame and a tub
Thank you! Sounds like a fun project. If you need guidance, you know where to find me. Best of luck!
This probably only applies to the after-market polyurethane bushings. Most OEM bushings are basically melted rubber that is stuck to both the inner and outer sleeves. Then it becomes important to tighten these bushings with the control arm at rest or “normal ride height” or the bushing will be twisted when the vehicle is on the ground.
You are correct Victor. I probably should have made that more clear. It’s surprising how often I see technicians installing control arms with bonded rubber bushings and tightening up the bolts on the lift. 🤦🏻♂️
With polyurethane bushings, the sleeve is not bonded and is designed to slip, so it doesn’t matter when you tighten the bolts.
Thank you Victor!
@@GarageFab BONDED!! That’s the word I was looking for… then I had to go and say “melted rubber blah blah blah” LMAO. Anyway, your video is perfectly clear as it pertains to exactly what you are talking about. My comment is more off-base, although related. I appreciate the great content on your channel and how clearly you explain it all!
I appreciate you back, Victor! Cheers.
@@GarageFab Oh I'm glad I came back to this video and read the comments, I am replacing OEM with MOOG OEM-like bushings and got spooked haha. Thanks for making the video and clarifying that, I had no idea there was a difference!
Yes Sir! Big difference! Bonded rubber bushings aren’t meant for large amounts of twisting movement. So after installing your new bushings, make sure you set the vehicle down before fully tightening up the bolts. That can be really hard especially if your vehicle is low, but your bushings will thank you.
Best teacher on the web man!!
🙏 Thank you my man!
Agreed
I would agree with that statement!!
Hell yeah🫡
@@soltribeprojects2055 Thank you friends. 🙏 I’m honored.
Great information! I'm making lower shock mounts that can twist for an old Dodge truck. Essentially, you just confirmed my design. Thanks!
Twist! That sounds interesting!
This was so helpful and informative and your attitude was great. Definitely checking out more of your channel
Very much appreciated my friend. Hope to see you around. 👊
Exactly why I follow and watch your content, I don't want to just know what works, BUT WHY IT WORKS.
As always, super informative, intelligently simple and concise. A++
Ah! We were cut from the same cloth. There is nothing more important than the WHY! Thank you my friend. 🙏 See you in the next.
I've never really built a full suspension but I have converted several different types to poly. All this seems very obvious to me but I guess I was learning on things that were pre-engineered. Thanks for the tip on where to get ends.
True. I think all the times I’ve seen mistakes where when people tried to make their own bushings. And once from a small company that sold custom control arms. They’re not in business anymore. 🤔
I like how at first you asked what's wrong. I didn't know what I was looking at, but as you went through it, I could start seeing what was wrong. It was so helpful!
Yes! Happy to help my friend. Thank you for that. 🙏
Common sense to a mechanical engineer, but absolute gold for someone with zero prior background in vehicle suspension.
I probably won’t admit to how long I screwed this stuff up even with a decent amount of background. 🤦🏻♂️
Yes your mostly correct. Engineering standards generally ask for no more and no less than 3 threads protruding after the assembly. So if you need to trim, use that as a guide!
This is the first time I’ve heard “no more than 3 threads” aside from aesthetics. What’s the reason for avoiding, say, 8 threads?
@@GarageFab wasted material. Think about the extra 0.0005 cents that could cost per year!
@@GarageFab hey Toyota owner and mech engineer here...love this post and will follow you. I'm about to do RR bushings on an 05 Highlander....so I went down this protrusion rabbit hole and unless there's a chance equipment or people will get damaged, extra protrusion is no risk...seems there is an aspect of using #threads to do a verification of bolt stretch if the design needs it....other than that, have one thread if you wish. ...so long as you have full nut engagement when the assembly starts seeing load during tightening. Cheers from rusty upstate NY!
That’s good info! Happy to have you my friend.
Best not to use polyurethane where you can avoid it, as it tends to transmit a lot more of the high frequency stuff, especially because sizing is usually not done well (ie; the intaller doesn't know what the forces are or the range of compliance needed). This is especially true of engine mounts, where lack of compliance can kill alternators etc.
Compliance problems are usually worst around 4 bar linkages, with triangulated 4 bars needing lots of compliance to work... Normally it's better to go for parallel 4 bars plus a watts link, it gives better control, less compliance interference with suspension behaviours etc and is simpler to calculate loads.
Similarly, the type of bushing you're demonstrating here has very little lateral bearing capacity, it only bears on the edges of the steel tubes, so lateral loads are a big no no and should be oriented purpendicular to the link tube (unlike the triangulated 4 bar demonstrated).
Finally, bolted joints are considered to be failed when they slip, so the end of thread is (or should be) totally irrelevant, if it fails it's because it's slipped and failed under impact loads, resultant from the post failure movement. Size bolts so you've got at least one fully formed thread on the unloaded side of the bolted joint, but no other aspect is critical unless you're engaging onto the unformed threads of the shank, which WILL result in premature failure. The only parts involved in the joint behaviour should be the inner tube, clamped between the two flanges and the bolt it's self. The friction between the outer flanges and the tube are the only forces through which the joint should operate.
That was an insane amount of fascinating information. My biggest 😳 moment was alternator failure from poly engine mounts. What’s happening to cause that?!
Thank you for taking the time to right all that. You are appreciated, Drew.
@@GarageFab thanks, I appreciate it.
Poly engine mounts or rigid engine mounts can cause alternator failure because they don't absorb high frequency vibrations in the same way that traditional engine mounts do. You can get electronic or winding failure as a result of the increased fatigue loads.
GM makes some awesome hydraulic engine mounts that are studded on both ends and are basically awesome as a universal mount (LS/LT mounts).
And happy to help btw
Good info. I installed a triangulated 4 link on my truck. When I supported the truck with jack stands on the frame unloading the suspension, I could move the rear end side to side with my hands on the tires. The bushings were loose between the flanges after tightening to recommend torque. How should I correct this issue?
@@Jack-dm8lj are you fabbing the setup yourself? And are you particularly wedded to the idea of a triangulated 4 link? What do you want to use it for and how much travel do you want?
@@drew79s I purchased a kit from speedway. It is installed on a 1952 chevy pu. The brackets were cnc welded and made ready to attach to the frame and rear end housing. I removed the end links and shaved about a 16 of an inch off the inner sleeves. They tightened up nicely. Did I screw up? lol
New sub, thanks for the content. I found your video interesting and informative. I like your straight forward factual approach, and look forward to seeing more from your channel.
I keep coming back to this video. It's super helpful. I'm thinking of making a swing arm tire carrier that bolts to the back wall of my trailer in 2 places and was debating going this route instead of a spindle on the bumper. I like this idea of using these bushings as a hinge instead but not sure if it would be too tight or hard to move. Obviously it would be stiffer than a spindle but maybe a gas strut would help with that.
Yes! They are indeed stiffer, but not difficult at all. As soon as you add some leverage (like a tire carrier), they’re fairly easy to maneuver. Their stiffness might even be a benefit as the tire carrier wouldn’t swing back by itself. It should stay wherever you leave it.
Another option that I’ve been using lately has been machined shoulder bolts and bronze flange bushings (Oilite bushings) in DOM tubing. They resemble polyurethane bushings but way smaller, don’t allow any flex, (great for door hinges) and the stay lubed.
Thank you for your return! 😆
Some stock rubber bushings are fused to both sleeves and you can expect a short service life followed by a rear steering wobbling nightmare unless you make a provision for the bushing to pivot. A bronze sleeve between the bolt and slightly opened inner sleeve is a great mod when feasible. Early polyurethane bushings had a tendency on rare occasions to squeak but only while driving unless you ignored their instructions for no lubricant.
The bronze sleeve is a fascinating idea. Rubber bushings are great for absorbing road vibration but absolutely terrible on high travel bagged vehicles. I’m all about polyurethane but gotta admit your suggestion sounds interesting. Hire do you tighten the through bolt and keep it tight? 🤔
@@GarageFab I make the innermost bushing proud and on the second one onwards turned an o-ring groove on both ends of the bushing plus a clearance groove in the sleeve that allowed grease to completely fill the pivot and move any wear fragments over the o-ring. The improvement in lubrication with impregnated bronze as the bushing material and 0.020" of added clearance in the central part of the sleeve was enough to extend the service life to where it no longer needed to be replaced just greased with oil changes. This was on a 97 Pathfinder after wearing out the factory bushings plus an updated version and 2 polyurethane sets. It became a challenge.
Absolutely enjoy it when the smart people are annoyed.🤣✌😁
As do I Jason! Nothing better than getting comments from the annoyed smart people though. Very fulfilling!
Great video. Anytime you can give some knowledge about fabrication I am always interested. Your presentation style and ability to explain concepts in the simplest way make for great content. I don't feel talked down to or requiring my own shop to accomplish any task you present.
Yes! That means a lot, Jason. 🙏 Your final point has been my purpose for creating Garage Fab from the beginning; To show people big things can be accomplished in their own garage.
Thank you for the kind words! 👊
@@GarageFab I need to do a control arm bushing procedure. If the cottor pin gets warped or destroyed from my extraction process, which cottor pin should I choose?
I really appreciate your information and explanation, thanks for this video help a lot was braking my head on where to purchase this for my hardbody on bags
My pleasure Oscar! Lemme know if you like the products you get. I haven’t been able to find better. I’ll likely continue to get my stuff there until I can acquire the tooling to make my own.
Dude! You are killing it! Clear, concise, all excelent info, no bs fluff. More TH-camrs should take note.
Thank you for all your hard work. Keep it up!
A+. Subbed
Thank you my friend! Thrilled to have you. See you in the next!
Excellent and informative videos. Very exciting channel to find!
Thanks for not making things longer than necessary to hit the 10 minute-mark!
My pleasure, Brandon! Thank you for watching.
I'm not expecting to be fabricating suspension components any time soon but this is just excellent automotive general knowledge regardless, along with a tonne more posted by experienced and knowledgeable folks in the comments. Great stuff, instant sub!
Thanks for this information
I have a old 85 cavalier with a rusted up subframe. A arm is alright. But had a buddy do some welding on it. I think I should take it back off and redo it. Thanks again
My pleasure Marty. Lemme know how things go!
thanks for sharing the knowledge
Thank you! This is exactly what i needed to find tonight as im trying to fix a super duty traction bar that isnt available from the manufacturer anymore and the aftermarket isnt built correctly... 👍
Nice! Lemme know how it goes. I’m here if you need further guidance. 👍
Toyota mechanics were the best in town during the 1980's when I was a young fella. I worked at a Toyota dealership after a Ford dealership and 2 years of mechanic Tech School. Before all that was a Navy Engineer for 6 years.
We Toyota mechanics are still amazing. 😉 Sounds like you’ve had all kinds of experience!
Thanks for sharing your veteran experience. That was some great info 😎👍
Thank you, Joe!
This right here, clear info with reasoning that's east to understand. Also the engagement and pinned comment make this a clear win. Followed, thumbed, keep this coming. It's nice to see someone care about the details especially enough to acknowledge when a comment has merit to reinforce their point.
Excellent description and detail. I’ve never even worked on a cars suspension, and I liked this.
Nice! Thank you for the kind words my friend.
Excellent educational vid. After seeing your video I immediately can see what is wrong with the installation before your vid. Great job!
Very nice! Thank you Bret. 🙏
Full of good info. Just found your channel yesterday and instantly subbed. Keep it up!
Thank you! Happy to have you Adam. See you in the next. 👊
Good on you thanks , working with suspension specialist yrs ago ,he would soak bolts in diesal before installing,and every one had hole after nut for split pin ,a fair amount of the work end up on race track ,when I asked about pins he said,it's the 2 dollar piece of mind factor
I would never disagree with peace of mind! Going the extra mile rarely causes problems. Thank you, Jeffrey!
Good Stuff! I watched it twice to make sure I got it. Thanks for sharing your expertise MC! Cheers from Motown.
My pleasure, Robert! Thank you. 🙏
Working on this kinda stuff I always wondered about these questions. Thanks for making a video answering them! Professional help is hard to find on the internet haha
I’m no professional. I do have a TH-cam channel though so I must be trustworthy!
It’s my pleasure my friend. Thank you for watching. 🙏
Great simple terms to convey an understanding of this. One short video and you got yourself another subscriber.
Welcome to the channel my friend! Thank you! See you in the next.
(Love your TH-cam name by the way.)
Man, this episode was a tight and a joy to watch and learn. Thanks for all the details 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you Joel. 🙏 That means a lot!
It’s my pleasure.
I am constantly trying to learn. I may never use this but, excellent information and video!
There’s no better way to live life my friend; A state of constant growth. Thank you David.
Thank you for pre-empting my "But of course I grease the bolts, because I want to be able to get them back out again some day" comment. :D You're the bomb, dude. :D
Haha! Oh the joys of living in the desert.
@@GarageFab I mean... better the desert than somewhere that rust happens, but yeah, I've definitely had rubber bushings weld themselves to bolts shafts, even living in the 'Burque.
Yup thats exactly how i been doing them i use grade 8 black bolt with crimp nuts like factory nuts notice the lock washer will spread every once an awhile this is a great video for guys doing at home this video can save lives cuz suspension failure is critical
Very much appreciated, Jessica! Share with someone you think would benefit! Cheers.
Thanks for sharing. for explaining every detail . I like the way those tab's can be maid.
My pleasure, Angel. Thank you!
I learn a lot watching your videos.
Your editing dept. gets an A+
thank you
Haha! I’ll let him know. Thank you Gary! Happy to be of service.
Thank you for sharing your years of experience for free
This was some education information. I'm about to start working on a set of tubular link arms and control arms for a project ttruck and although it seems like simple concepts I definitely learned a little so I appreciate it!
Yes! Happy to be of service, Robert. I’d love to see what you create. This video was in preparation for my own control arms in the next couple of weeks.
@@GarageFab I think the only thing I have not really wrapped my head around yet is how to create the sockets for ball joints. I'll definitely be paying attention on what you do and hope you can share some detail. I'm sure its just a matter of using tubing and machining to fit but going to have to do some research on what the interference specs should be for the bottom units.
Please explain more, Robert! I’m unsure if you’re describing manufacturing the ball joint itself. My control arms are custom made to fit a specific vehicle but the bushing ends and the ball joints are pre-fabricated purchased parts that are then welded in place. All the super confusing technical stuff is left to the joint manufacturer.
@@GarageFab When I typed my response I was just getting off a plane so wasn't in the design mindset, lol. I just meant the cup/mount itself the BJ's press into on the stock bottom control arms. I'm sure it will just be tubing of sufficient thickness and using the lathe to get the inside diameter right so they still press in. I'll just borrow from some of the lowering suspension setups and add length to account for keeping the WMS in the right plane compared to stock height, camber and caster during the wheel travel. My ultimate goal is a pre-runner style with coilover and long travel, about 4 inches. I'm not racing or going offroad but if I do decide to get crazy I want it strong enough to survive since as a 2wd C10 you sometimes have to compensate with speed instead of 4wd traction.
Yes! That sounds like fun. There’s nothing like piece of mind. There’s also nothing like fear. Wondering if a wheel is going to fling off at any moment. Definitely make it strong.
The aftermarket ball joints I’ve purchased have the outer weld-on sleeve included. The ball joint fits in and is held in by a snap ring. I’ve occasionally had to fight to press the ball joint in, probably from shrinkage of the outer sleeve during welding.
Thank you once again Aaron. Well explained. Best channel I follow by far.
Thank you Matthew! That is a great honor. 🙏
Outstanding video as always. Very good information and easy to understand. Thank you.
My pleasure my friend. Thank you!
Finally someone explains it. This topic has driven me crazy dealing with 4x4's, low riders, etc. It's always fooked.
Haha! Happy to help, Brock. Thanks for watching.
I'm actually helping a small manufacturer with R&D on replacement poly bushings for a car that has very little aftermarket or OEM support.
Our goal is to offer owners with an alternative to the only existing poly supplier for these cars. We not only wanted to compete, but level it up by offering poly replacements for components not covered by the competition.
This is definitely challenging as we're not making these parts for people building a car with custom links, we're making replacement parts for a car that was produced in limited numbers. So, preserving the foundation is key.
Someday I hope to build custom subframes and control arms for performance restomodding these cars, but right now the goal is preservation.
While doing our research we discovered a flaw in the competition's design. You touched upon this in your tab design comment. About how the tab needs to be wide enough to support the bushing flanges. We noticed this was not addressed in their design on many components and we've decided to address it in our design.
A somewhat smaller flaw in their design was the minimal allowance for lubrication. They barely leave room for the grease. The designer building our parts has already addressed this in his prototypes.
Another issue was the strict adherence to OEM inner sleeve dimensions on the part of our competition. The bolts used in the OEM design are much smaller than the inner sleeve diameter, especially for the subframe mounts. This is speculation on our part, but we believe the OEM believed that this gave wiggle room when attaching the SF to the unibody during assembly. Not all components were perfect and this compensated for that.
We wanted to minimize that gap by bringing the tolerances closer together. When you have a 3,500lb car you're thinking about canyon carving or taking to the track, these components shouldn't be allowed to shift if someone didn't torque things down properly.
This leads us to our next issue with the current maker. They don't supply installation instructions, not even a diagram. The only way customers know where things go is by referencing the part numbers on the bags to the online catalog where they bought them. Even then, there are no procedures or torque specs.
Finally, the last bone of contention is with parts only being limited to suspension. We hope to bring more to the table, not by simply adding more suspension and subframe parts not previously offered, but by adding engine/trans mounts, radiator core suppprts, and muffler hangers.
Long comment, I know, but the point I'm trying to make is you addressed a couple mistakes even professional manufacturers chose to ignore: lateral/torsional support and lubrication.
What's worse is these guys corner the market on this car and they know it. So, they charge a premium for it. All while making an inferior product.
Well, Sir, I wish you the best of luck on this project. From what you’ve said, I’ve already come to dislike this other company. 😆 That seems to be a really common thing in the automotive world; Parts that come without instruction. I won’t lie. I’m the typical male that will throw away the instructions for an IKEA computer desk without opening them, but it’s not often you hear of deaths resulting from the faulty assembly of furniture.
Suspension components should probably have very detailed instructions and yet they rarely do. It’s bizarre.
I like where you guys are going with the project. I hope to hear updates!
Until then, Cheers!
@@GarageFab Thank you. Currently some parts are in prototyping while the rest are already sorted out. The only issue is that while our competition has already laid the groundwork for a majority of the parts, we're left dealing with the more complax ones they didn't want to touch. My car, a 1992 SVX is also the test mule for this endeavor. The designer is over 2,000mi from me, so it's all measurements and images sent over the wire. I have also sent him quite a few of my parts to research and this means my car has been down for a considerable amount of time. It's not feasible for me to send the larger parts and this is where things really come to a crawl. Not having those components makes it hard for a person to wrap their head around things. How it's mounted in the car, types of surfaces being dealt with, tightness of fit etc. We'll get it figured out soon enough. I mean, this guy made complete kits for the Justy of all cars. If he has the patience and skill to do that, the SVX will be a cake walk.
As for instructions goes, that's the easy part, and we can't agree more about safety. I mean, minimally, torque specs should be listed. We'll be sure to exceed that standard.
Fun and informative video. I have picked up so much knowledge of of you channel highly recommend and love how you don't drown on and make thing fun.
Keep up the good work and can't wait for the next one.
Ps I love how it when you say the sizes you use on your materials as it hard for me to picture with out this.
Thank you David, that means a lot to me. I personally can’t learn anything unless it’s fun and interesting. 🤷♂️
All Great advice . Well presented. Thanks
I love learning new stuff!
great explanation for a 'simple' yet important component
Thank you my friend. 🙏
Great attitude and great advice. I like your comment responses too. Well done sir.
Thank you, James! I’m pleased you noticed. Comments are one of the most important things to me. Cheers!
Very great video,
TIP= Grade 8 is great for street vehicles but the off-road guys in Baja stepped back to grade 5, This is because grade 8 and 10 will break in the desert on impact but grade 5 will bend. A bent bolt can continue the race and a broken bolt takes you out. Just something for your audience to think about for the application they are building for,
That’s fascinating! But it makes a lot of sense. Similar to sockets I guess. I was shocked to find out that impact sockets were actually SOFTER than chrome sockets. The softness allows them to flex and avoid cracking. Totally backwards from what I originally thought.
This was a great video!
As for greasing the bolts, you are on the spot, makes no difference in operation but I always choose to grease the bolts when I assemble for corrosion protection.
When it goes to engine mounts etc, especially in bikes , no seized bolts!
We’re spoiled here in the desert. If we see rust, we know that car came here from somewhere else. You can call it lazy, but we’re a nearly grease free society.
@@GarageFab you are very lucky!
Here, and I mainly speak for ATVs, if you don't grease especially the rear arm axle bolts, you are going to have a very hard time when you will have to remove!
I believe it! 😆
Man, that was super helpful thank you for the info. I got a Heidts IRS with all this stuff and a couple of bolts missing I know what to get now.
Great video, very direct and to the point. Lots of knowledge here 👍🏻
Thank you, James! Happy to be of service.
Wow! Good stuff, thanks!! I actually learned something without getting confused.
Excellent! Happy to be of service my friend.
It may sound inappropriate for some but… you’re like a god for me when it comes to this area of expertise. Amen! …and thank you, yet again!
Haha! I think that implies that I am a guru of sorts. I’m definitely not that. I only have a firm grasp on the basics, and a willingness to share the little bit that I know. There are people that know far more than I do, just finding ones that teach can be a challenge.
Regardless, thank you Michał! So very happy to have you.
I just learned some more useable info, so thanks for the cool video. 👍
Happy to be of service, Steve. Thank you!
Hey ManKandy, You are the Man!! This is Exactly what I was looking for!! All the details to choose the right bushing, where to get it and how to make sure it’s installed correctly. I assume the tabs are 3/16 thick for a 50’s large car 4 link? Super Thanks 🙏 for all your videos, unbelievably helpful and so appreciated!!
Tab specifics might be a future video. I do in fact to use 3/16 inch plate, and if the tabs are more than 3 inches tall, I’ll connect the tabs with a backing plate. And if there will be sideways or diagonal forces like on a Triangulated 4 link, I’ll gusset the sides of the tabs. Hope that makes sense without visual aid.
Thanks again brother!
Perfect, Thanks 👍👍🙏🙏
Wow, dude that was awesomely put together well. Great Info!
Thank you, James! 🙏
All necessary information in a short video. Great stuff 👍
Thank you, André! 🙏
Good info brother. Things to keep in mind for future projects. 👍
Thank you, Keith!
Peace and Love
Thank you kindly for your knowledge,skill and expertise. Your tutorial will be a great plus to my diy'er knowledge/understanding.
Stay dirty and efficient...
Good information, great non patronizing way of laying it. Earned one sub. Thanks!
Thank you, Juan. Thrilled to have you my man! 🙌
Definitely I will apply this to my next build! Gracias!
My pleasure! Can’t wait to see it.
Great video well explained thank you
Thank you, Andrew!
Thanks for the knowledge brother!.
My pleasure, David!
Another of the most useful videos I've ever seen, and the other one was your u-joint video. AMAZINGLY GOOD content!!
Thank you my friend! That means a lot to me. 🙏 ❤️
Wonderful, simple, concise information. Thanks!
Thank you Brian! 🙏 I’m happy you enjoyed.
Great video. Threads will also wallow out the hole in the tab faster then the bolt shank. thanks!
Agreed! But if that happens I think it’s a sign the bolt wasn’t tight enough.
thank you, learned to do bushings perfectly now!!!!
Happy to be of service, David.
Just found this video randomly, I automatically subscribed after watching.
Happy you found us! See you in the next 👊
Your 100% correct!! I've done this enough to know your spot on!
🙌 ❤️
I came across this via the algorithim and just wow I learned so much in so little time. Now I feel like taking a second look at my suspension. I appreciate you making this video! Can you make another on asking your boss for another 1 month break? lol
Thank you my friend! Happy to help.
Yes! I’ll start immediately on the video, “How to Write a Two-Week Notice” 🙌
Outstanding! Appreciate you sharing the knowledge! Good Man!
It’s my pleasure. Thank you for watching my friend. 🙏
yuP^ I would trust this guy with my vehicle he personifies wisdom and intellect and professionalism and good character.
No way! I don’t even trust me!
Thank you my friend. 🙏
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
My pleasure my friend! Happy to be of service.
Cool tips! I will say you always want the unthreaded part on a bushing. The threads will bite into and wear out the bushing over time and create play.
Grease and bushing compatibility is huge. We put new polyurethane bushings on my wife's car, and they lasted about 8,000 miles altogether.