This video is brilliant! No other source (including Les Andrews’ book) so clearly explains how to adjust the center brush to increase or decrease the output. I was struggling to adjust my generator until I saw this. Thank you so much for your clear explanation.
One of the best "how to's" I've watched! One question though: you didn't really mention which wire from the inside of the generator goes to which brush. I'm sure it matters.
This is an excellent presentation and overview. However, an old timer, I would like to point out the DC generator internal generator wiring does not determine the generated voltage output polarity. The polarity is determined by the field winding core residual magnetism. Flashing the field briefly with a DC voltage yields the polarity desired. It is the residual magnetism created which determines the polarity of the output.
Since the gen was previously repaired the rear bushing may be oil lite and it is porous and does not need added lube. They last a long time. Some bushings were lubricated with an oil wick. a few drops of 30 wt kept it good
That was awesome. Thank you. Question: How come my generator doesn't look like yours with the slots in the back to be able to adjust the 3rd brush? I've got a 1929 Tudor. Were there different types of generators in the early cars?
The slots are normally covered by a sheet metal band that clamps around the back of the generator. The only one I know of that doesn't have the slots is the Powerhouse, used in '28. On those, you have to remove the back of the generator to adjust it. But those look completely different from this one. It might also be an aftermarket generator that's made differently. I've seen those before.
Nice video, thanks for making it. I would be a bit concerned about the pronounced wobble in the pulley (or slightly bent shaft, maybe?). I'm guessing that's what tore up that front bearing.
I might have missed it in your presentation, but when installing the new brushes one brush in the usual kit is slightly thinner than the other two and is installed in the arm on the output adjustment assembly (with the ring). The two fatter brushes go in the output and the arm that is grounded with a short bare wire
I love the explanation but I am afraid this will not last long as the pulley is wobbly! I believe the bearing may not have seated and this will cause premature wear.
I wished you would have shown how to polarize the generator I know you put power to the field on a negative ground but what do you do on positive ground
Fact is, when he tests the generator by seeing if it will run like a motor, he has polarized the generator (using a 6V charger, the positive (red) clamp is connected to ground/body of generator and the negative (black) clamp is briefly connected to the generator output lead (red wire).
Fact is, when he tests the generator by seeing if it will run like a motor, he has polarized the generator (using a 6V charger, the positive (red) clamp is connected to ground/body of generator and the negative (black) clamp is briefly connected to the generator output lead (red wire).
This video is brilliant! No other source (including Les Andrews’ book) so clearly explains how to adjust the center brush to increase or decrease the output. I was struggling to adjust my generator until I saw this. Thank you so much for your clear explanation.
This was great! Thanks for explaining the adjustments to the brushes for different applications and driving! I'm going to tackle mine now!
You give me / people confidence to work on my
1929 -- things I don't even think I could do . Thank you again , love all the videos you put out .
Always enjoy your videos. Well done on this repair. Most people would repair by replacement.
You helped me out again! Thanks for an informative "how to" video.
Thank you very much.
One of the best "how to's" I've watched! One question though: you didn't really mention which wire from the inside of the generator goes to which brush. I'm sure it matters.
great video very well explained, it was extremly usefull.Thankyou from argentina
You're welcome.
Thanks. I enjoy your helpful videos.
This is an excellent presentation and overview. However, an old timer, I would like to point out the DC generator internal generator wiring does not determine the generated voltage output polarity. The polarity is determined by the field winding core residual magnetism. Flashing the field briefly with a DC voltage yields the polarity desired.
It is the residual magnetism created which determines the polarity of the output.
This was so helpful thanks for posting
Great video! well done and helpful! Thanks!
Thank you. Enjoy your videos!
Good video. No BS! Thank you.
Since the gen was previously repaired the rear bushing may be oil lite and it is porous and does not need added lube. They last a long time. Some bushings were lubricated with an oil wick. a few drops of 30 wt kept it good
That was awesome. Thank you. Question: How come my generator doesn't look like yours with the slots in the back to be able to adjust the 3rd brush? I've got a 1929 Tudor. Were there different types of generators in the early cars?
The slots are normally covered by a sheet metal band that clamps around the back of the generator. The only one I know of that doesn't have the slots is the Powerhouse, used in '28. On those, you have to remove the back of the generator to adjust it. But those look completely different from this one. It might also be an aftermarket generator that's made differently. I've seen those before.
Very interesting, thanks.
Nice video, thanks for making it. I would be a bit concerned about the pronounced wobble in the pulley (or slightly bent shaft, maybe?). I'm guessing that's what tore up that front bearing.
I might have missed it in your presentation, but when installing the new brushes one brush in the usual kit is slightly thinner than the other two and is installed in the arm on the output adjustment assembly (with the ring). The two fatter brushes go in the output and the arm that is grounded with a short bare wire
Normally that's how they're done, the kit that I got had all 3 the same thickness.
I love the explanation but I am afraid this will not last long as the pulley is wobbly! I believe the bearing may not have seated and this will cause premature wear.
Did you buy the vise new? Or did you inherit it? Thanks, your vids are educational and soothing!
I got it from Harbor Freight about 15ish years ago. It broke a few times and had to be welded back together but still works.
You need to do a full explanation of how this works and m trying to understand this
Hello and thanks for the video. Do you know if the "cut out" is repairable or just replaceable?
I never tried rebuilding one. but I know if the points burn out, there's no way to replace them so they're probably not repairable.
I wished you would have shown how to polarize the generator I know you put power to the field on a negative ground but what do you do on positive ground
The same way as a negative ground. You just run the current the opposite direction. The field is negative, and the housing is positive.
Fact is, when he tests the generator by seeing if it will run like a motor, he has polarized the generator (using a 6V charger, the positive (red) clamp is connected to ground/body of generator and the negative (black) clamp is briefly connected to the generator output lead (red wire).
Thanks for information using a battery charger and how to connect the leads in order to polarized it.Well explained!
How do you polarize a positive ground
Fact is, when he tests the generator by seeing if it will run like a motor, he has polarized the generator (using a 6V charger, the positive (red) clamp is connected to ground/body of generator and the negative (black) clamp is briefly connected to the generator output lead (red wire).
It seems like a lot of the work you do involves fixing other people's poor work.