I’m a little late to this, but I always use sewing thread to tie the brushes back. It’s extremely easy to break once you have it assembled, and small enough it won’t cause a problem if any doesn’t fly out.
The proper assembly procedure would be to take the armature and slip the commutator shaft into the brush assembly plate. You can just use your fingers to pry the brushes apart until the commutator slips past them. The 'Old Timers' may have used bits of string and then cut them off and removed them (according to info found and shared by members of the VCCA forums) but your toothpicks work. After the shaft is set in the bushing, then slip the pole housing (also called the main body, or frame) over the armature, then the end bushing cap over the end and bolt it together. I got my 1928 Chevy Capitol back in 2005, and that was the procedure I used to reassemble both the generator and starter. It only works if you fully disassemble them. If you leave the pulley on (or in case of the starter, don't remove the bendix drive) and only remove the brush assembly plate, then you have to wrestle with the brushes and that's a pita to do. String is about the best way - just tie pieces of string around the brushes, pull them out, then push the commutator part past, snip the knot and pull it out. Your new brushes are squealing because they are flat. After it's run on idle for a 'break-in' period, the brushes will wear and take a concave shape that fits the curve of the commutator, and will also 'self-lubricate', and the squealing should stop. Cheers!
Thank you for the feed back! This is exactly why I started the channel; to learn, and help others that are doing similar projects. I just wish I would have gotten before I reassembled the starter. Haha. Thanks again. This will be helpful in future projects.
No, brushes most definitely won't "wear in" on their own. They need to be sanded at installation to conform to the shape of the commutator or they will arc and burn, and may damage the regulator.
Aaron, if he had an armature lathe and turned the commutators would the squealing be non existent? I know for your average person won’t have that tool but just for reference?
@@endurocatfish I would assume so? But.. in hindsight and looking back at it now, there could be another cause for the squealing, such as a bad bearing (I know, he replaced them, but that doesn't mean there wasn't a problem with the new one). There is one thing that I thought could be done, and that is to secure a piece of sandpaper around the commutator with some double-sided tape (not overlapping the sandpaper). 220 wet-or-dry might be too much.. maybe 320? Reassemble the generator, then spin the generator to sand down the brushes to the proper curve of the commutator. (could hook it up to a drill and spin it, or if you have a running motor, can pully it. I have an old Ford 8n tractor that technically could spin it and sand down the brushes. Would not want to run it for very long at all.) I'm not saying that'll work.. just a thought that entered my mind when I was re-watching the video. I don't have a lathe myself. Only other option I can think beside that is to just take it into an electrical machine shop and let them do it, but that does cost money.
Lucky to have wires line up with brushes, but I'm working on one with no such luck. Any advise ( from any) on which brush connect to field, armature, or third, grounded brush?
The smaller the pulley the more output from the generator. Later model cars had higher current requierments ... needing nore current from generator. BTW this is a 3 brush generator. Meaning its feild coil is supplied by the generator and should give a more or less constant. Later generators were 2 brush and a voltage regulator unit.
Use the toothpicks, but set em on fire instead of trying to fish them out? (I have all the BEST advice, especially since I don't know jack about cars/trucks) Also, why was it squealing as you turned it, given the oil on the shaft and the grease in the bearing housing - was that the armature against the brushes?
Fire and car parts always go great together. 😉 Yes, that’s the brushes rubbing on the commutator. I assume that will go away as it’s used. Hopefully someone on here will let me know. Thanks for watching.
I thank you for your repair presentation it was fantastic and Thank You!
Thanks for watching and for the response! I hope it was helpful to you.
Thanks James, inspires us to start working on our junker
Thank, Dale!
C’est excellent merci beaucoup pour l’explication
I’m a little late to this, but I always use sewing thread to tie the brushes back. It’s extremely easy to break once you have it assembled, and small enough it won’t cause a problem if any doesn’t fly out.
Very nicely done!!!
Thank you very much.
The proper assembly procedure would be to take the armature and slip the commutator shaft into the brush assembly plate. You can just use your fingers to pry the brushes apart until the commutator slips past them. The 'Old Timers' may have used bits of string and then cut them off and removed them (according to info found and shared by members of the VCCA forums) but your toothpicks work. After the shaft is set in the bushing, then slip the pole housing (also called the main body, or frame) over the armature, then the end bushing cap over the end and bolt it together.
I got my 1928 Chevy Capitol back in 2005, and that was the procedure I used to reassemble both the generator and starter. It only works if you fully disassemble them. If you leave the pulley on (or in case of the starter, don't remove the bendix drive) and only remove the brush assembly plate, then you have to wrestle with the brushes and that's a pita to do. String is about the best way - just tie pieces of string around the brushes, pull them out, then push the commutator part past, snip the knot and pull it out.
Your new brushes are squealing because they are flat. After it's run on idle for a 'break-in' period, the brushes will wear and take a concave shape that fits the curve of the commutator, and will also 'self-lubricate', and the squealing should stop.
Cheers!
Thank you for the feed back! This is exactly why I started the channel; to learn, and help others that are doing similar projects. I just wish I would have gotten before I reassembled the starter. Haha. Thanks again. This will be helpful in future projects.
No, brushes most definitely won't "wear in" on their own. They need to be sanded at installation to conform to the shape of the commutator or they will arc and burn, and may damage the regulator.
That was a great reply and very helpful to me thanks
Aaron, if he had an armature lathe and turned the commutators would the squealing be non existent? I know for your average person won’t have that tool but just for reference?
@@endurocatfish I would assume so? But.. in hindsight and looking back at it now, there could be another cause for the squealing, such as a bad bearing (I know, he replaced them, but that doesn't mean there wasn't a problem with the new one).
There is one thing that I thought could be done, and that is to secure a piece of sandpaper around the commutator with some double-sided tape (not overlapping the sandpaper). 220 wet-or-dry might be too much.. maybe 320? Reassemble the generator, then spin the generator to sand down the brushes to the proper curve of the commutator. (could hook it up to a drill and spin it, or if you have a running motor, can pully it. I have an old Ford 8n tractor that technically could spin it and sand down the brushes. Would not want to run it for very long at all.)
I'm not saying that'll work.. just a thought that entered my mind when I was re-watching the video. I don't have a lathe myself. Only other option I can think beside that is to just take it into an electrical machine shop and let them do it, but that does cost money.
Restoration should include checking the armature with say a growler and cleaning of the commutator bars
Paperclips can easily be cut and bent for simple removal and they don't break.
Looks like this guy is more of a WOODWORKER, but it's nice to be mechanically inclined.
That brg was spinning in case, should be kinda tight
Looking good all painted up again
How do I oil the generator through the little oiler holes? ? What oil is used? Thanks
I am restoring an old tractor and would like to sand blast the generator case after I disassemble it. Has anyone done that before?
I assume it works! Why not test it prior to possibly wasting your time rebuilding with bearings, brushes and paint?
@@rtholbrook1 The best way to learn is to do it. That’s what this project is for me. To learn.
Lucky to have wires line up with brushes, but I'm working on one with no such luck. Any advise ( from any) on which brush connect to field, armature, or third, grounded brush?
Sorry. I would not know which goes to which. Good luck.
That pulley is on the small side for what you might find on a generator. Btw my mother was born in 1928!
Thanks for sharing. I hope it’s the right size pulley. I assume it is, because it’s what I took off of it. Is your mother still with us?
@@lunchtimerestorations1490 Sadly, she passed away in 2017, one day shy of her 89th birthday.
The smaller the pulley the more output from the generator. Later model cars had higher current requierments ... needing nore current from generator.
BTW this is a 3 brush generator. Meaning its feild coil is supplied by the generator and should give a more or less constant. Later generators were 2 brush and a voltage regulator unit.
Use the toothpicks, but set em on fire instead of trying to fish them out? (I have all the BEST advice, especially since I don't know jack about cars/trucks) Also, why was it squealing as you turned it, given the oil on the shaft and the grease in the bearing housing - was that the armature against the brushes?
Fire and car parts always go great together. 😉 Yes, that’s the brushes rubbing on the commutator. I assume that will go away as it’s used. Hopefully someone on here will let me know. Thanks for watching.
I thought you were going to test the armature and the fields. Big disappointment.
5 likes and 17 subs for you.