Make your own FAST profiles in Cura 5.0+ - This video series will save you TIME. Part 1 of 3.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- This video is sponsored by PCBWay - www.pcbway.com - PCB Manufacturing, 3d Printing, CNC parts, and more..
Also get $5 of credit if you sign up to PCBWay using this link www.pcbway.com/setinvite.aspx...
In this video I'm going head first into raw speed, MANY people have asked me how to print faster, and it's all very well using other peoples' profiles but really I think it's about time for some proper investigations into "all this", starting with what exactly "all this" is.
More and more printers are coming to the market promising FAST printing. This is well and good, but are you able to leverage them to give you EXACTLY what you want? It's pretty easy to do once you know which parameters matter, that's what I'm aiming to uncover in this three part series, taking everything I've learned from some of the fastest printers in the land and trying to distill it down into something sensible for the rest of them.
Mobiobi's cube (much appreciated for letting me use it!):
www.printables.com/model/1719...
Frogs Legs Rag by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.filmmusic.io/song...
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license
Join us on Discord! There are many of us now! Hundreds! / discord
* Please consider supporting the channel to allow me to do more, and better stuff! *
(also you get to see the odd bit of out takes, extra content, and sometimes, usually actually, a chance to see videos first and get that first comment in, because why not):
/ lostintech
Quick note regarding visibility of infill through walls. You can disable "Infill before Wall" to eliminate that annoying effect. It works wonderfully with thin lines and single walls too.
good point!
I've spent many hours tuning my settings in Cura to try to print faster on my Ender 3. My advice is:
- if you have upgraded part cooling fans, crank them up to as high as you can tolerate, decrease the minimum layer time to something like 2 seconds,
- use support blockers to prevent supports anywhere they're not actually needed,
- reduce the walls to 2 or 3,
- reduce the top and bottom layers to 2 or 3,
- use the lines infill if it's just an aesthetic part, or use gyroid if you need strength. Also enable "connect infill lines".
- Try to increase your print speeds as high as they will go, but you're going to run into a lot of vibrational issues after about 60mm/s. Go faster on the infill and inner walls, but slower on the outer walls. After installing Klipper and tuning the linear advance and resonance compensation, you will probably be able to reach about 90mm/s until you see the same vibrational issues, but all of that is beyond what most beginners are willing to do so perhaps it's not worth explaining.
You should look into changing your nozzle size to 0.6 on cura even if youre using a 0.4 nozzle, I get double the time saving without adding any speed
thanks for the video.. looking forward to the next two!! keep up the great work
Thanks for digging into this. There's SO MUCH here. Took me ages to figure out why my Benchies were taking 1:47 when everyone online was saying they could print a Benchy in an hour. I thought my CR10s was just slow...
The infill visibility can be adjusted with the setting 'Infill Overlap Percentage'. I usually reduce it to 10 %.
very nice part 1. looking forward to the rest.
Good points. Combing is good when you con overall make-time. Which includes the post processing (clean Up). Provided it's done right.
TNice tutorials comnt from you is legendary. Uncomplicated like your video!!!
Way to goooo, Tim 👍👍👍👍
Great video and I’m looking forward to the whole series!
Non-linearity is prominent in your chart because you plotted X vs. Y, but X and Y do not have the same dimensions. Y is minutes, but X is a dimensionless number. If you replace the time (Y) values with linear values of 106, 74, 49, 37, 26, 21, 15 you will get a nearly identical curve, not a straight line as you might expect. However, if you normalize the actual data in both axes to values between 0 and 100, the line will be nearly straight.
Nonlinearity is real, though, because the bottom and top layers (as you pointed out) always take the same time, regardless of layer height. If your cube was 100% solid, the top and bottom layers combined would take up 0.53% at 0.7mm layer height but 3.77% of the time at 0.5mm layer height. But the cube is not solid, so the top and bottom layers take up an much greater portion of the overall time.
Also, your cube at 26.5mm does not divide into a whole number of layers except 0.1mm and 0.5mm layer heights. The slicer will probably throw away a layer at all other settings (or maybe it adds one, but it doesn’t print a fractional-height layer).
Let us know when you publish the two other videos. Love your videos
One observation I have made in arachne is a trend to lots of gaps in the top surface, like if I have text and numbers in the top I get issues
yes I've noticed that, it needs investigation, the back bit of a benchy is a prime example!
@@LostInTech3D My guess is the lag in flow rate changes, try turning on linear / pressure advance if it's not on already. Flow equalisation set to 100% might help as well.
I love the tunability of dynamic layer height (with 0.6mm nozzle) with PrusaSlicer. Haven't found a way to get the same speed nor quality with Cura
Cant wait for the next video(s)!I get this series is about speed but Im assuming next things to cover would be jerk, maybe acceleration and probably one important thing would be line width BUT over the past couple of days I ve been playing around with these settings trying to improve the *quality* of my prints on my ender 3 V2 and although Im not sure I gained much in speed but 2.5x the jerk (stock is set at 10) for outer walls together with a 0.42 outer wall (0.48 inner and infill) gave me the sharpest corners so far.Deffinitely an improvement. Oh ye, aso wall printing order "inside first" plus wider line width got rid of the infill seen through outer walls when printing 2 wall lines only.
Idea for series two, improve quality!
Not a bad plan... writing that one down. 👍👍
If your ender 3 v2 has tmc2208s then a recent marlin update means they are now compatible with linear advance. This will give you the sharp corners you want.
The imperial conversion of a Trevor is a Daniel. 2.3487 times a Trevor is a Daniel divided by 3.3324
Great video!
Thanks! 😁
Cool video 🙂
I don't like combing, on my delta combing always results in the nozzle brushing past the supports and knocking on them. This can often dislodge the print or break part of it etc etc. With a later height of 0.1mm (average on my delta for me) and a z-hop of 0.2mm it barely adds any time at all. That along with turning combing *off* and my prints are vastly more successful, no infill knocking, and print times only go up by 10-15 min on a multiple hours long print.
I'll have to experiment more with my new Kingroon KP3S Pro but I think the same will apply to that as well.
And yes my cooling is adequate, my speeds are fine, all my other settings are good. I print with dried filament with proper temps and retraction settings per roll.
Nice video. Is there a 3rd video on printing faster?
Would love to better understand minimum later time. Great stuff, keep it up.
In all seriousness a great video. I'm trying to set up two Ender 3 V3 SE's. One with a 0.6 and the other a 0.4
The idea being finer details done with the 0.4, medium with the 0.6 and when I get my Ender 5 Plus back it will have a 0.8 for big and rough. I will mostly be printing armour and helmets which I smooth over with UV resin before painting. Does this setup make sense to you (I know you're not really AI (or do I))? Any advice is welcome and much needed
It's fiddly but possible to override the default settings from Cura by using the folders in %appdata%/cura/.
The default files for my SV01 Pro did many debatable things like excluding the generic materials - ignoring settings from any material inheriting from the generics - and setting multiple undesirable overrides in "quality" for different filaments and nozzle combinations.
One note: for some reason, the .def.json files go in /definition_changes/, not in /definitions/.
Now I can pick a filament, nozzle size / variant, and quality while keeping custom profiles for more "print job specific" cases as a final touch.
I’m sure other people might point this out, but the graph at 4:07 is exactly what you’d expect, the time is inversely related to layer height. Because layers are expected to take around the same time and the lower the height, the more layers.
Hi when do you publish thé two other episodes, it is so interesting. Keep posting!!!!!!
When I get chance, I have a few commitments in january but we'll see how quickly I can get through them! Unfortunately the end of the year got quite busy!
I have never used z hop on any printer.
I like to set my minimum layer time as low as possible but still get enough cooling. Usually this means running several small test prints.
Upgrade your parts cooling fan that will help drastically with printing faster. You can tweak print speeds and minimum layer time after.
Have found acceleration speeds to make a big difference in print speed and if you don't go crazy with it you actually don't lose print quality.
Don't be afraid of adjusting acceleration speeds and running test prints if you start to see new artifacts go back to last good value.
If you have a stock ender 3 pro or similar start at 1k accel and work from there. Creality sets them stock to a slow 500
hah, you should watch the next episode from the other day
We need one of these videos for Prusa Slicer 👍
noted :) I'll have to finish these first haha
@@LostInTech3D thank you!
You left out some parameter which comes to mind. "Combine infill every n layer" this can save quiet some time as well, but unfortunately only when printing small layer heights.
I also print way thicker infill widths of about 0,7mm with 0,4mm nozzle. You can do the same to inner perimeter and reduce the parameter count from 3 to 2, or even to 1 perimeter but way thicker.
I've tried using combing a few times. Sometimes I get good results, other times it seems to make stringing worse.
Looking forward to talking about the jerk!
Non linear because of top bottom thickness, unless you've set those to print the same number of layers all the time which doesn't make sense.
👍
If you like to print fast, sooner or later you come to the idea to use big nozzles. There the maximum volumetric speed can be the limiting factor. In that case you might not see a speed bump if you increase the layer height. We are talking THICC! 1-2 mm nozzles.
Potentially. But there are some interesting surprises around that topic
I hate how my fast profile works better than my "safe" profile now, keep getting holes in my models on my safe model
Haha, clearly as part of the safe profile, drainage holes are safer 😂
Is the rest on the way?
It is 😁
Quickly updating Wikipedia with the "Trevor" unit of measure
hahaha yes they like that kind of thing over on Wikipedia 😂
For the extra points, flow rate and speed ?
haha actually no! See me after class 😂😂
It's line width. Width to height has an optimal ratio like 8:5 or something, I need to go remind myself of the exact number
Ah ok that does make sense. 8:32 , I never use preset profiles I change the settings for each model. I’m sure I would get acceptable results with presets but I never have for some reason.
First
me too - I usually have a base profile that's kinda "normal" then I change some stuff every print depending on the exact model, like wall count or support %, I think if you don't do that you don't get the best results at all, I'm trying to convince more people to do this I guess 👍
you should review cura 5.2.0 beta
Is it out???? I've been waiting for that
Combing is there to try avoid the nozzle scratching the surface. Ussualy you set it to not on skin
Apparently if I read it right, not in skin is now obsolete and the new one is "not outer surface" although I'm not entirely sure what the diff is, also it's not default on my cura so...
IMO combing is weird, because it tries to prevent retraction (or so I understand it) by oozing molten plastic on printed part (over sections that won't be visible, if correct setting is selected).
As result, the nozzle will be unpredictably more or less empty when it's time to start printing next line, which leads to low pressure --> under extrusion at the beginning 🤔
I won't even start with sensibility of not crossing perimeters, but it won't speed things up 😬
On my printer I dictate line height. You know I'm right.
The GMS setup does not soft anytNice tutorialng like the video does it lasts a lot longer and is a gritty soft and the soft coming from softex lasts
Will you submit Trevor to the Oxford dictionary?
I'm on the phone to the ISO as we speak 😉
First, I mean you told me too
Haha yep 😁
First
I'll accept it
First! No, im not by far 😋
cura could be so amazing if it didn't have so many default settings that are just braindead
the defaults are in the profiles, I should start a dialog at some point with the devs on how you would go about submitting a better profile
@@LostInTech3D every setting has a default which profiles often do or don't touch.
true, true. Prusaslicer is the same, I tried from scratch the other day and it was a nightmare. Fan settings especially!
@@LostInTech3D the combing stuff as well. By default it tries to comb without retraction which leads to *massive* underextraction when it starts the line again
Indeed resin printing is awful- that smell haunts you for a week afterwards, its messy...also it is super toxic.
bought a resin printer 2 years ago used it to do a test print- then was like bollox this! Now it's sitting in my cupboard
yeah I've gone from "not yet" to "not in the house" to "can I just pay someone else" haha
@@LostInTech3D at the time I was temporarily living in a houseshare with no garden and carpets making the slightest spill an issue
With my suspicious behaviour and the smells/noises emanating from my room I think my housemates must have thought I was working for 'IS*IS'🤣😅
I was hoping there was one simple trick... But there is one simple trick to lose belly fat!!! Click this link to see this one weird tip that has doctors scared. JK😝
Verbal pausing makes me wonder if you have become ai 🤔😉😚
If I could, I would
🤣@@LostInTech3D
I'v got to disagree about Zhop. Since I started using it I've almost completely eliminated my prints getting yeeted off if the bed mid print after getting a small protruding of plastic smacked by the nozzle.
In my testing you don't really need more than a single layer height of hop to get the effect and at 10mm/s hop speed it really doesn't add much to the overall print.
I'm willing to entertain z hop, although when I tried it, the blobbing from raising the nozzle caused more yeeting. How many mm are you hopping then, 0.2?
@@LostInTech3D were you using retract on Zhop when you were getting blobbing? And yes I'm using 0.2mm Zhop.
Oh and for clarity this is all on an Anycubic Mega X.
I kind of skimmed over z-hop tbh because it wasn't following my narrative 😂 - it needs more work, perhaps even a dedicated vid. On some printers it's default and works really well. I'll note that one down.
@@LostInTech3D I use Z-hop on most prints, at 0.3mm. really helps in my opinion especially printing with a lot of jumps between seperatly printed areas giving 0.3mm allows me an amount of safty and in some cases actually makes the print maginally faster when combined with combing-not in skin. I really helps if you have a part that has more than one section/area on the layer (two towers for instance) as it gives additional moment for the retraction to happen before making the jump to the next part of the layer
Hmm sounds like the perfect topic for a friday poll! 👍