You just saved me hundreds of hours of troubleshooting over the course of my life. I come from a machining background and have been struggling with tapered parts not working correctly from the printer.
Thank you soo much. I have shared this with my 3D printing friends. Because of your video, a two year old little boy now has a Print in Place toy jet with wings that will now expand. Thought you’d appreciate this small feedback of how your work has brought joy:) God bless:)
Interesting. I’ve always gone into fusion and used push pull to add .1-.3mm clearance depending on size. Super cool that the slicer can do it with a check box.
Just got back into 3d printing again after our big retirement move, and have been perusing all things 3d printing, and boy, what a find! You have done an amazing job of explaining all of this tolerance stuff and how to accomplish it. Thanks for taking the time to make this informative video. I have always just had to experiment with up or down sizing with the scaling in cura to get what I wanted as far as threads was concerned. Wow! this is really cool. Thanks!!
This is possibly one of the most helpful settings for my projects. I've been using it for months and it's a game changer. It's up there with the new tree supports in terms of how helpful it is. First heard about it here. Thank you!
I have one multi-piece model that I have been struggling to get to fit together for too long. It always resorts in it fitting 95% of the places and the ones where it doesn't I have to file and scrape plastic away. I always had to balance between the parts fitting reasonably well or with significant gaps that I had to fill in later on. This totally resolves the issue for me and now I can print all the pieces off and they just fit the way I modeled them to. THANK YOU!!!!
I personally think all tolerance issues should be resolved during the design period, but this is a great tool for when you work with the designs of others where editing the model would take too much time and effort. Thank you for sharing!
Tolerances are just a bag of inaccuracies compiled from all kinds of physical and computation sources. With this setting your reducing the inaccuracies, so you have to account for less tolerance in the design.
@@angelorf If you have used Cura to account for all the different tolerance deviations an FDM printer can have for different geometries, you'd know that most of the tolerance features present in the software fix one thing while breaking another. Or you fix some and not others. So yeah, beautiful words that sadly do not apply for FDM printing. Much simpler for me is calibrating my printer for a certain geometry (cubic box in my case) and knowing how the machine works, designing my parts taking it all into account during the design phase.
Thanks, I knew how a slicer worked but never really understand the settings and what they will do or not do. When set. You made it very clear and easy to picture. !
This is SOOOO valuable! As an engineer, this clarifies some of the long-standing questions I've had while trying to understand what it takes to create "accurate" parts and why it can be so difficult to dial in so that it won't matter what part I put on, I know it comes out accurately enough (within an expected print tolerance). Very well explained!
very well done, i usually forget about this setting and when i need it i always manage to get the settings backwards. my brain thinks "inclusive oh that means keep everything inside the model ok!" now I'll have your video as reference for that occasion when i model something and i forget to add built in clearances.
@@LostInTech3D same like include the layer lines to the shape of the model or constrain them. Not slice it first estimate the shape of the line and include that too.
wow, I always had tolerance problems with Cura. So much so, that I started using different Slicers because they seemed to have better dimension accuracy. This trick just got me back to Cura again, because somehow Cura sliced models print always faster then others. Thank you!
I was about to throw myself off a bridge trying to make frictionless bearings, I have it to a point where there are literally no perceptable layer lines, tried chemical smoothing, the lot - took a look and of course this is the reason, spheres are outright larger than the model. First try with exclusive and it worked like a charm. Thankyou thankyou thankyou!
This video has such perfect timing, I am printing the rolling storage box by 3D Printy at the moment and I have been having a great deal of trouble getting the two threaded parts to line up ( which they need to line up perfectly) I am testing this as soon as I get home. Thanks heaps mate👍🇦🇺😊
Great info. It really isn't always easy to discern what the cura settings mean, even within their own hover over descriptions, and sometimes I just adjust while printing and find myself resetting and repeating. Now I know, thank you.
This is really useful, thanks and subbed. If you're printing nuts and bolts, remember that even in steel, nuts tend to be a slightly larger diameter than the thread they are designed to work with. Check DIN or similar standards for the exact measurements.
Very interesting. Usually I'd just fiddle with horizontal expansion until everything fits, which can be a bit of a pain as soon as your parts are a bit bigger (And a waste of material at that)
@@marcosmoura911 well yeah, that's assuming all parts you print have the same tolerances, but I print stuff from different sources which usually add their own tolerances and it's never consistent
Do the same, the precision can be great. If tight tolerance is required, I only print test pieces of the thread until dialed in and then print the entire model with the setting. Typically its about -0.2 to -0.4
Yeah, that's what I do mostly... although more recently for simple things like holes I just let them print oversize (giving me narrower holes) and drill and ream them to size later.
I just wanted to say thank you! Being relatively new to 3d printing, i had no idea what this setting did! Very useful! Thank you for your well done, good humoured video!
last night did two ten hour prints of the koyabashi fidget cube, one "middle" and the next "exclusive" the differences were amazing, Exclusive just worked straight off the printer, Middle was stuck in so many places and will never be smooth. thanks for these tips and now i just have to remember to use them next time.
Thank you for this explanation. It makes so much more sense how to use that setting. I love the way you explain stuff. I think our brains work the same way. Keep up the great content.
Wasn't me! Also I was glad I was wearing gloves as there was some...weird...third colour in there if you look closely!! I wouldnt even guess what that is 😂
This is the single best setting you can change if you want to print Flexi/Articulatable things. After changing to exclusive right off the bed I get perfect clearance for all flexi's. Incredible.
This makes so much sense as to why I moved off cura, since I had tried many options for bolts and nuts, never came out exactly how I wanted it to, but I think I’ll give it a check after steering this.
great video. didn't know about this setting and this is helping me with a current large project. 70 bolts and nuts with passthrough for filament storage.
This is interesting because I've been puzzling over why screws no longer work. I made a bunch of screws about a year ago maybe 14 months ago for some projects that I was doing when I was fairly new at 3D printing. They all worked perfectly and I was amazed because I had no real experience and I didn't look up online how to do it I just tinkered around with the screw tool or threading tool whatever you wanna call it and used the settings that made sense to me as a machinist and they all worked perfectly. A month or two ago I was in need of printing some quarter 20s and they didn't come out at all you could not turn then a tie to the screw just save your life. I printed some half inch nuts and bolts as well and the same deal was the result. I'm going to go and try this method and hopefully it works because it'll open up a whole bunch of projects that I just chucked in the bin
thank you, as someone who exclusively designs containers with tolerances built in..you just threw the shiniest wrench into my workflow. all this info just proved how little I know about 99% of the settings in cura
the problem is, with 3d printing, many solutions have evolved to solve the same problems. And sometimes people solving them don't realise there's already a solution. It's kind of...a thing. But hey, now you have another setting to worry about! :)
Holly balls! Soon to be 10k subs! Where is the party at ? I subbed a few weeks ago (can't remember when actually), and you only had like 3k subs! This is insane! Congrats!
I remember this from integral calculation in school, crating cylinders and calculating with the different settings(which diameter to choose). One of those things I've never thought about in 3d printing but now I ask myself why since now it's quite obvious
That was one of those lessons in calculus where all of us kids whined that “this is useless, when am I ever going to use this!?” All the time. Fundamental calculus is everywhere. It’s more common than algebra when you look for it.
Another Cura feature helpful for these issues are the horizontal expansion settings. This simply applies a +/- offset to every layer which can be used to adjust tolerances and account for material shrinkage. I tend to use the "Hole" option to only increase clearance for screws without affecting overall dimensions. The initial layer option is essentially "elephant's foot compensation" in other slicers. There are certainly situations when the slicing tolerance is the best choice but an offset is probably better to account for material removal in post processing.
It isn't so much as helpful as it is something you should always have calibrated. SuperSlicer also has this feature. It isn't so much to compensate for material shrinkage as it is to compensate for how holes are modeled in STLs when they are converted to triangles. They become smaller, especially on low resolution STLs. Good model designers will have a 0.4mm chamfer on the side that needs to lay on the bed to compensate for elephants foot like the Voron Design team does on all there parts.
@@akanar_1924 circular holes get smaller with worse export resolution, but external circular shapes as well. Horizontal expansion makes holes smaller, but external polygons larger, so it's not the ideal setting to tweak. Horizontal expansion should be used to counteract the fact that plastic is squeezed out to the side a bit, because when a thread is deposited it has rounded edges rather than a square cross section. Those round sides bulge out, so that's why you want a negative horizontal expansion.
Huh, yeah, the screw threads are definitely best done in exclusive. I design in tolerances. I model perfect fits then offset my tolerances. However, this is a good setting for when I don't have the model.
I keep forgetting this, like......over and over and over. Other things I've found that help are printing walls in the outside to inside order, don't print too hot(in general), make sure part cooling is enabled, and of course set the slicing tolerance to exclusive. That one throws me every time. It should NOT be under experimental settings and SHOULD be under quality imo. Thanks for the videos!
You had me at awful drawings and Play-Do! Thanks for taking the time to break this down. When i break these things down, I get stuck in "analysis paralysis"
I've been printing for just over two years and I didn't know this so thank you, subscribed. I do wish you would have addressed this for prusaslicer as well since it's the next most used slicer.
Excellent work. I had an idea of what this did, but seeing a detailed rundown is nice. So if I understand this correctly, the difference in physical size could be anything up to the entire line width, between exclusive to inclusive, or half that for exclusive to middle, depending on the geometry. So for 'middle', with a 0.66mm line width, I could be getting an extra 0.33mm per side. Yikes! Considering I model to a tolerance of ~0.1mm and add -0.05mm via horizontal expansion in cura, that's extreme. I'll be defaulting to exclusive from now on. It's generally not an issue if things are a bit smaller. This is important, as you can only fiddle with horizontal expansion so far, because you also need clean toolpaths. ...and props for playdough :)
yes I think your logic there sounds right. I believe that in the same way as calculus works, the closer to zero your line heights are, the better the fit will be.
Yeah I tried printing a price with a thread once and, well... I had to use a knife and a ton of heat to get it to work. But that was all on middle so thanks for letting me know!
For complex geometery it's necessary to tweak the model to get a precise fit. The horizontal expansion of the layers can be corrected with the "horizontal expansion" setting. This works great for non-complex geometry, and reduces the amount of adjustment needed to make complex geometry fit.
Thats awesome, thank you. I have been wondering why my moving parts have been fusing together, I thought it was the printer. Im printing one now on exclusive mode to see how it pans out. Cheers!
I will come back tomorrow. And if my pieces will now fit together... well, all I can do is sending you hugs, love and a mention in a video that about 200 people will see in about three weeks :D ... but boy, will I sleep excited tonight...
I've seen this setting a hundred times when scrolling through, saw the Settings Guide diagrams and thought "hey that'd be useful" but every time I've printed PIP or anything else that needed to fit together, I forgot about it and reduced the flow instead. Maybe next time I'll actually remember to use it
That's awesome! Could you do this level of explanation for every single cura setting please? It would be a great series that I would follow and I would rate them all with a thumbs up regardless how much ads would be in there. Under one condition it has to have this level of deeply explained topic in 10min max 15min but without filling in sponsor shit or something the overall clip must have 12min of pure informativ content if it is 15min long and it must have 7min pure informativ content when the clip is 10min long which means I give you the chance of 3min of ads and nonsense that you may put in, then my up vote is guaranted to you for the whole series. Deal?
"Could you do this level of explanation for every single cura setting please?" I pretty much am, give me another year or two 👍 Glad it's of use, I will do more if people like these best.
@@LostInTech3D great 😃! Do you have this series already in your Playlist? If yes how is it titled? So I can add it to my favorites. 😎 Thanks for the quick response 👍PS:the title for the series should hint that there are only the cura settings explained like "Cure settings explained the series" or some thing catchier🤔
My jar lids never screwed on perfectly. I always just printed the lid 0.5 to 1% smaller than the jar as a workaround. I will definitely try this setting out.
Many of the really useful settings in Cura are hidden away and need to be explicity enabled for them to show Up even in expert mode. Thus since I had not realized how many things are hidden there I have not really thought checking the settings menu for hidden stuff and so I have just niw recently discovered that Cura like Prusaslicer also have things like adaptive layers since many years back. This one is yet another hidden away unknown feature I have to enable and try out. Should make for much easier success with things like threads and PIP stuff! I hope so att least
A lot of people seem to hate this about cura's interface, but I love it. Mostly, Cura has good defaults and slimming down the number of things shown to only the things I personally use is much more appealing and intuitive to me than some advanced/easy mode toggle. Plus, putting newly developed things in the /experimental/ section is a good way to warn people about cutting edge features, while still giving early access to them. IMHO, I think most complex software should be designed like this.
Prusa has pulled a lot of their cool “groundbreaking” features from already existing features in Cura. Stuff like gyroid infill for example. Adaptive layers is just the newest one.
@@some_random_wallaby I agree that Curas Interface is better. Its more ordered then Prusaslicer I think. Att least I have easier to find the way around when all settings are in an ordered list. Also now that I know of the goldmine of extra stuff to enable there in the preferences I have done some real digging in there and indeed found some more good stuff.
I've been using middle on everything. I've just been designing around it and wondering why my 20mm cubes are .03 off and still. I thought middle was the standard for tolerances, because it was the default. Thanks for clearing that one up. I'll design interfacing part tolerances for exclusive now.
Using exclusive induces another issue especially in the latest version of Cura. If your model has a lot of detail, like figurines, etc, using exclusive will make the detail often detach from the main body itself and you end up with air gaps between parts of the model. I found out the hard way trying to print models were parts were detaching, details falling off and attributed this to some possible bug in Cura, reverted to an older version and it was gone. I realized later that this was caused by Exclusive being the default and I didn't know about it. While I get why exclusive makes sense, it can introduce gaps where you wouldn't want (and actually wouldn't even expect!). I can send you a model to test with if you'd like, it is very interesting to see how it behaves. Let me know if you're interested.
Thats why on most printers it's by default on middle tolerance. Always go for middle tolerance for minis. Go for esclusive when you're printing technical models.
The difference in the pyramids in the end was so large because of the extreme line width right? The larger the line width the more it excludes/includes?
You just saved me hundreds of hours of troubleshooting over the course of my life. I come from a machining background and have been struggling with tapered parts not working correctly from the printer.
What an excellent description. Explained clearly for everyone to understand. I have seen this explained before but this does it justice.
Thank you soo much. I have shared this with my 3D printing friends. Because of your video, a two year old little boy now has a Print in Place toy jet with wings that will now expand. Thought you’d appreciate this small feedback of how your work has brought joy:)
God bless:)
aww
I love these kind of videos. Really interesting info that I would not have been exposed to otherwise. Keep on the great work!
Thank you 👍
That's pretty much exactly my thought too. Thanks for the great content. I hope you are able to keep it up!
Interesting. I’ve always gone into fusion and used push pull to add .1-.3mm clearance depending on size. Super cool that the slicer can do it with a check box.
Just got back into 3d printing again after our big retirement move, and have been perusing all things 3d printing, and boy, what a find! You have done an amazing job of explaining all of this tolerance stuff and how to accomplish it. Thanks for taking the time to make this informative video. I have always just had to experiment with up or down sizing with the scaling in cura to get what I wanted as far as threads was concerned. Wow! this is really cool. Thanks!!
This is possibly one of the most helpful settings for my projects. I've been using it for months and it's a game changer. It's up there with the new tree supports in terms of how helpful it is. First heard about it here. Thank you!
I have one multi-piece model that I have been struggling to get to fit together for too long. It always resorts in it fitting 95% of the places and the ones where it doesn't I have to file and scrape plastic away. I always had to balance between the parts fitting reasonably well or with significant gaps that I had to fill in later on. This totally resolves the issue for me and now I can print all the pieces off and they just fit the way I modeled them to.
THANK YOU!!!!
I personally think all tolerance issues should be resolved during the design period, but this is a great tool for when you work with the designs of others where editing the model would take too much time and effort. Thank you for sharing!
+1
Tolerances are just a bag of inaccuracies compiled from all kinds of physical and computation sources. With this setting your reducing the inaccuracies, so you have to account for less tolerance in the design.
@@angelorf If you have used Cura to account for all the different tolerance deviations an FDM printer can have for different geometries, you'd know that most of the tolerance features present in the software fix one thing while breaking another. Or you fix some and not others.
So yeah, beautiful words that sadly do not apply for FDM printing.
Much simpler for me is calibrating my printer for a certain geometry (cubic box in my case) and knowing how the machine works, designing my parts taking it all into account during the design phase.
I think all slicers should be modified to produce the model
Thanks, I knew how a slicer worked but never really understand the settings and what they will do or not do. When set. You made it very clear and easy to picture. !
This is SOOOO valuable! As an engineer, this clarifies some of the long-standing questions I've had while trying to understand what it takes to create "accurate" parts and why it can be so difficult to dial in so that it won't matter what part I put on, I know it comes out accurately enough (within an expected print tolerance). Very well explained!
i agree, this is high value content. its now on paper in my archive
very well done, i usually forget about this setting and when i need it i always manage to get the settings backwards. my brain thinks "inclusive oh that means keep everything inside the model ok!" now I'll have your video as reference for that occasion when i model something and i forget to add built in clearances.
It's not just you. I had to re-take and refilm this SEVERAL times because in my head "inclusive" means smaller. 🤔
@@LostInTech3D same like include the layer lines to the shape of the model or constrain them. Not slice it first estimate the shape of the line and include that too.
Oh, glad I'm not the only one. TBH, I think they should just name it skinny, pudgy, and fat ;)
@@some_random_wallaby as a big guy I think I'm allowed to sign off on this.
wow, I always had tolerance problems with Cura. So much so, that I started using different Slicers because they seemed to have better dimension accuracy. This trick just got me back to Cura again, because somehow Cura sliced models print always faster then others. Thank you!
Oh my, that was very well explained! Love the pyramid example (and your voice, as usual)!
This solves the issue of parts not fitting together from my favorite thingiverse lightsaber designer. Thank you!!
Oh this is SO interesting! Wow, I wondered what the setting really did. Thanks for the in-depth explanation!
I was about to throw myself off a bridge trying to make frictionless bearings, I have it to a point where there are literally no perceptable layer lines, tried chemical smoothing, the lot - took a look and of course this is the reason, spheres are outright larger than the model. First try with exclusive and it worked like a charm. Thankyou thankyou thankyou!
This video has such perfect timing, I am printing the rolling storage box by 3D Printy at the moment and I have been having a great deal of trouble getting the two threaded parts to line up ( which they need to line up perfectly)
I am testing this as soon as I get home. Thanks heaps mate👍🇦🇺😊
Great info. It really isn't always easy to discern what the cura settings mean, even within their own hover over descriptions, and sometimes I just adjust while printing and find myself resetting and repeating. Now I know, thank you.
May I just say... You've been killing it lately. Great job.
thank you! 👍
I cannot thank you enough! Finally no more adjusting threads in CAD software. Bows to you :)
This is really useful, thanks and subbed.
If you're printing nuts and bolts, remember that even in steel, nuts tend to be a slightly larger diameter than the thread they are designed to work with. Check DIN or similar standards for the exact measurements.
You have no idea how much I appreciate this video. I’m literally dealing with this issue right now.
Very interesting. Usually I'd just fiddle with horizontal expansion until everything fits, which can be a bit of a pain as soon as your parts are a bit bigger (And a waste of material at that)
At least adjusting horizontal expansion makes some more sense than screwing with flow or scaling the entire model as others mentioned...
If you calibrate it correctly it works without fiddling like that.
@@marcosmoura911 well yeah, that's assuming all parts you print have the same tolerances, but I print stuff from different sources which usually add their own tolerances and it's never consistent
Do the same, the precision can be great. If tight tolerance is required, I only print test pieces of the thread until dialed in and then print the entire model with the setting. Typically its about -0.2 to -0.4
Yeah, that's what I do mostly... although more recently for simple things like holes I just let them print oversize (giving me narrower holes) and drill and ream them to size later.
I just wanted to say thank you! Being relatively new to 3d printing, i had no idea what this setting did! Very useful! Thank you for your well done, good humoured video!
last night did two ten hour prints of the koyabashi fidget cube, one "middle" and the next "exclusive" the differences were amazing, Exclusive just worked straight off the printer, Middle was stuck in so many places and will never be smooth. thanks for these tips and now i just have to remember to use them next time.
Thank you for this explanation. It makes so much more sense how to use that setting. I love the way you explain stuff. I think our brains work the same way. Keep up the great content.
Very timely, I was going to print some threaded parts.The only criticism I have is YOU MIXED DIFFERENT COLORS OF YOUR PLAYDOUGH TOGETHER !!! 😂😂
Wasn't me! Also I was glad I was wearing gloves as there was some...weird...third colour in there if you look closely!! I wouldnt even guess what that is 😂
Please do more print in place (PIP) educational videos…. Keep up the GREAT work!!!
I haven't watched the video yet but I might give it a thumbs up right away because I know it's going to be exceptionally well
Thank you for the vote of confidence, I hope I don't disappoint 😂
This is the single best setting you can change if you want to print Flexi/Articulatable things. After changing to exclusive right off the bed I get perfect clearance for all flexi's. Incredible.
This makes so much sense as to why I moved off cura, since I had tried many options for bolts and nuts, never came out exactly how I wanted it to, but I think I’ll give it a check after steering this.
great video. didn't know about this setting and this is helping me with a current large project. 70 bolts and nuts with passthrough for filament storage.
This is interesting because I've been puzzling over why screws no longer work. I made a bunch of screws about a year ago maybe 14 months ago for some projects that I was doing when I was fairly new at 3D printing. They all worked perfectly and I was amazed because I had no real experience and I didn't look up online how to do it I just tinkered around with the screw tool or threading tool whatever you wanna call it and used the settings that made sense to me as a machinist and they all worked perfectly. A month or two ago I was in need of printing some quarter 20s and they didn't come out at all you could not turn then a tie to the screw just save your life. I printed some half inch nuts and bolts as well and the same deal was the result.
I'm going to go and try this method and hopefully it works because it'll open up a whole bunch of projects that I just chucked in the bin
also if you use fusion 360, I read that they changed how screw threads are calculated which messed up how well they print, I forget the details!
thank you, as someone who exclusively designs containers with tolerances built in..you just threw the shiniest wrench into my workflow. all this info just proved how little I know about 99% of the settings in cura
the problem is, with 3d printing, many solutions have evolved to solve the same problems. And sometimes people solving them don't realise there's already a solution. It's kind of...a thing. But hey, now you have another setting to worry about! :)
Holly balls! Soon to be 10k subs! Where is the party at ?
I subbed a few weeks ago (can't remember when actually), and you only had like 3k subs! This is insane!
Congrats!
Party at 100k subs 🤣👍
i absolutely love your videos, they are so intriguing. I am a college mechanical engineering student and this stuff is so cool.
I remember this from integral calculation in school, crating cylinders and calculating with the different settings(which diameter to choose). One of those things I've never thought about in 3d printing but now I ask myself why since now it's quite obvious
That was one of those lessons in calculus where all of us kids whined that “this is useless, when am I ever going to use this!?”
All the time. Fundamental calculus is everywhere. It’s more common than algebra when you look for it.
Another Cura feature helpful for these issues are the horizontal expansion settings. This simply applies a +/- offset to every layer which can be used to adjust tolerances and account for material shrinkage. I tend to use the "Hole" option to only increase clearance for screws without affecting overall dimensions. The initial layer option is essentially "elephant's foot compensation" in other slicers. There are certainly situations when the slicing tolerance is the best choice but an offset is probably better to account for material removal in post processing.
It isn't so much as helpful as it is something you should always have calibrated. SuperSlicer also has this feature. It isn't so much to compensate for material shrinkage as it is to compensate for how holes are modeled in STLs when they are converted to triangles. They become smaller, especially on low resolution STLs. Good model designers will have a 0.4mm chamfer on the side that needs to lay on the bed to compensate for elephants foot like the Voron Design team does on all there parts.
@@akanar_1924 circular holes get smaller with worse export resolution, but external circular shapes as well. Horizontal expansion makes holes smaller, but external polygons larger, so it's not the ideal setting to tweak.
Horizontal expansion should be used to counteract the fact that plastic is squeezed out to the side a bit, because when a thread is deposited it has rounded edges rather than a square cross section. Those round sides bulge out, so that's why you want a negative horizontal expansion.
Huh, yeah, the screw threads are definitely best done in exclusive. I design in tolerances. I model perfect fits then offset my tolerances. However, this is a good setting for when I don't have the model.
This was a verry educational topic, thank you for making this video.
I keep forgetting this, like......over and over and over. Other things I've found that help are printing walls in the outside to inside order, don't print too hot(in general), make sure part cooling is enabled, and of course set the slicing tolerance to exclusive. That one throws me every time. It should NOT be under experimental settings and SHOULD be under quality imo. Thanks for the videos!
You had me at awful drawings and Play-Do! Thanks for taking the time to break this down. When i break these things down, I get stuck in "analysis paralysis"
TY for the video.
That made perfect sense and it was easy to follow.
I've been printing for just over two years and I didn't know this so thank you, subscribed.
I do wish you would have addressed this for prusaslicer as well since it's the next most used slicer.
Clear as mud. Thanks for the help.
Excellent work. I had an idea of what this did, but seeing a detailed rundown is nice.
So if I understand this correctly, the difference in physical size could be anything up to the entire line width, between exclusive to inclusive, or half that for exclusive to middle, depending on the geometry. So for 'middle', with a 0.66mm line width, I could be getting an extra 0.33mm per side. Yikes! Considering I model to a tolerance of ~0.1mm and add -0.05mm via horizontal expansion in cura, that's extreme.
I'll be defaulting to exclusive from now on. It's generally not an issue if things are a bit smaller. This is important, as you can only fiddle with horizontal expansion so far, because you also need clean toolpaths.
...and props for playdough :)
yes I think your logic there sounds right. I believe that in the same way as calculus works, the closer to zero your line heights are, the better the fit will be.
Yeah I tried printing a price with a thread once and, well... I had to use a knife and a ton of heat to get it to work. But that was all on middle so thanks for letting me know!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Really nice to see a setting I made years ago catch on ;)
Thanks for the setting! I use it all the time! 👍
Did you write it for Cura? Regardless, good one!
For complex geometery it's necessary to tweak the model to get a precise fit. The horizontal expansion of the layers can be corrected with the "horizontal expansion" setting. This works great for non-complex geometry, and reduces the amount of adjustment needed to make complex geometry fit.
Thats awesome, thank you. I have been wondering why my moving parts have been fusing together, I thought it was the printer. Im printing one now on exclusive mode to see how it pans out. Cheers!
Thank you so much for this, I've always wondered the difference.
Thanks for the info. I will try designing my screws with correct dimensions now and see if printing with exclusive will work :)
Great work dude!
Nice explanation. This might be a situation where I would print a test section of the part to see what works best.
Good idea!
Very good description!
I will come back tomorrow. And if my pieces will now fit together... well, all I can do is sending you hugs, love and a mention in a video that about 200 people will see in about three weeks :D ... but boy, will I sleep excited tonight...
Very helpful, Excluesive for gears!
I tested it myself and it worked perfectly!
Nice, another good video, just discovered your channel, very good.
I've seen this setting a hundred times when scrolling through, saw the Settings Guide diagrams and thought "hey that'd be useful" but every time I've printed PIP or anything else that needed to fit together, I forgot about it and reduced the flow instead. Maybe next time I'll actually remember to use it
Very nice explanation.
Awesome explanation!
Amazing! That solved my problem, thank you so much!
So do you print both parts at the same time if you are trying to get them to fit together? Like the bolt and nut on the same build plate.
Amazing and useful as always
That's awesome! Could you do this level of explanation for every single cura setting please? It would be a great series that I would follow and I would rate them all with a thumbs up regardless how much ads would be in there. Under one condition it has to have this level of deeply explained topic in 10min max 15min but without filling in sponsor shit or something the overall clip must have 12min of pure informativ content if it is 15min long and it must have 7min pure informativ content when the clip is 10min long which means I give you the chance of 3min of ads and nonsense that you may put in, then my up vote is guaranted to you for the whole series. Deal?
"Could you do this level of explanation for every single cura setting please?"
I pretty much am, give me another year or two 👍 Glad it's of use, I will do more if people like these best.
@@LostInTech3D great 😃! Do you have this series already in your Playlist? If yes how is it titled? So I can add it to my favorites. 😎 Thanks for the quick response 👍PS:the title for the series should hint that there are only the cura settings explained like "Cure settings explained the series" or some thing catchier🤔
Well explained and understandable, thank you!
Very interesting !
I have to test that setting soon !!
Thx
You're welcome! Good luck!
Excellent explanation.
Very nice explanation thanks!
I'm excited to try this out. I've been messing with flow rate. But this might be what I really need.
Thank you my dude great video!!!
My jar lids never screwed on perfectly. I always just printed the lid 0.5 to 1% smaller than the jar as a workaround. I will definitely try this setting out.
Superb content. Thank you.
Great learning for us
Many of the really useful settings in Cura are hidden away and need to be explicity enabled for them to show Up even in expert mode. Thus since I had not realized how many things are hidden there I have not really thought checking the settings menu for hidden stuff and so I have just niw recently discovered that Cura like Prusaslicer also have things like adaptive layers since many years back. This one is yet another hidden away unknown feature I have to enable and try out. Should make for much easier success with things like threads and PIP stuff! I hope so att least
A lot of people seem to hate this about cura's interface, but I love it. Mostly, Cura has good defaults and slimming down the number of things shown to only the things I personally use is much more appealing and intuitive to me than some advanced/easy mode toggle.
Plus, putting newly developed things in the /experimental/ section is a good way to warn people about cutting edge features, while still giving early access to them.
IMHO, I think most complex software should be designed like this.
Prusa has pulled a lot of their cool “groundbreaking” features from already existing features in Cura. Stuff like gyroid infill for example. Adaptive layers is just the newest one.
@@some_random_wallaby I agree that Curas Interface is better. Its more ordered then Prusaslicer I think. Att least I have easier to find the way around when all settings are in an ordered list. Also now that I know of the goldmine of extra stuff to enable there in the preferences I have done some real digging in there and indeed found some more good stuff.
Very helpful. Love your content. Thanks!
Thank You ! Yes it worked 🙏😊
Glad to help 👍
Great video!
Thanks!
Very good! Thanks 👍
Ohh this is excellent thank you so much
Thank you! I was having problems with this! You might have solved it!
Glad to hear! 👍
This i did not know, thank you.
i always do my tolerances when designing the pieces, but this is awesome
merci beaucoup pour toutes ces explications très très intéressantes
I've been using middle on everything. I've just been designing around it and wondering why my 20mm cubes are .03 off and still. I thought middle was the standard for tolerances, because it was the default. Thanks for clearing that one up. I'll design interfacing part tolerances for exclusive now.
oK, got most of that and am now looking to use to resolve an issue with some parts for a toy that are not fitting together quite right. Thank you.
see my latest video on "making parts fit" for that
Very informative video. I couldn’t get past a minute. Because of the background music.
I recommend subtitles if you want to watch it without, I take great pains to put full subtitles in every vid. 👍
Nice, thanks!
great content!
this is great thank you
Спасибо за этот видео 🙂🙏
Well done sir! (drawings aside)
heh 😛 thank you 👍
Great info. Unfortunately I use Prusaslicer! Do you know if there's a prusaslicer equivalent?
I'm not aware of one. There might be something in superslicer?
Wait, 3mm line width on an .4 mm nozzle?? Do you have any video of it printing? I have to try this. Nice video, love your explanations
I sure do - check out "extreme vase mode 2" video from about a month ago. You'll like it, I promise.
@@LostInTech3D Thanks!
THANK YOU!!!!!
Using exclusive induces another issue especially in the latest version of Cura. If your model has a lot of detail, like figurines, etc, using exclusive will make the detail often detach from the main body itself and you end up with air gaps between parts of the model. I found out the hard way trying to print models were parts were detaching, details falling off and attributed this to some possible bug in Cura, reverted to an older version and it was gone. I realized later that this was caused by Exclusive being the default and I didn't know about it. While I get why exclusive makes sense, it can introduce gaps where you wouldn't want (and actually wouldn't even expect!). I can send you a model to test with if you'd like, it is very interesting to see how it behaves. Let me know if you're interested.
yeah I am interested but super busy at the moment (video backlog!) so please send it over and I'll look at it when I can :)
Thats why on most printers it's by default on middle tolerance. Always go for middle tolerance for minis. Go for esclusive when you're printing technical models.
I really appreciate the info in this video, but can you please look into getting a fixed focus camera or locking your autofocus?
We're not all making Mr Beast money over here you know 😅
The difference in the pyramids in the end was so large because of the extreme line width right? The larger the line width the more it excludes/includes?