I can halve your print times with this video. Episode 2 of Faster Profiles in Cura / Prusaslicer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
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Print faster. Or rather, finish sooner. A simple goal, three videos. By the end I think we should be able to cut print times by 2/3 while retaining some (some!) quality.
Watch and learn what matters most, this episode is all about tuning lines to flow, and about being more of a jerk. (somehow I managed a whole episode with no jokes about jerk)
Yay I remembered to link the voron build video! • The Voron 0 Is Finishe...
Things I totally forgot to mention, how to set jerk/accel in firmware - oops:
M503 (with no parameters) to retrieve current settings, in octoprint or repetier host or whatever), this will tell you the current jerk and accel.
M501 to restore saved settings (if you mess up)
something like
M205 X20 Y20
will set X and Y jerk to 20
and
M201 X1500 Y1500
will set max acceleration to 1500 on X and Y.
You can also put those two in the start gcode if you don't have a terminal access!
Models
Bird tesselating tile (one of a set, check it out, it's really good!! ) : www.printables.com/model/3540...
soap dish: www.printables.com/model/1138...
poop emoji: www.thingiverse.com/thing:223...
Bird tesselating tile (one of a set) : www.printables.com/model/3540...
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Me who just prints at night so my prints finish instantly in the morning:
Love old good montage!
@@TechieSewing huh?
@@Heisenburger815 Montage is a video technique used to show that a long of time has passed without showing that on screen. So you set a print, you see it finished in the morning. Sleep is natural at montage :)
Ok I'm not the only one 😂😂
I save a bunch of shorter prints for the days on weekends and longish prints at night and weekdays the longgg prints
"More Jerk = More googly eye wobble."
That's by far the best explanation for jerk I've read so far :D
One of the things I learned with injection molding and toolmaking is - how long is a piece of string and what colour... You can only push plastics so fast into a mold or in 3d printing out of a nozzle with out without causing issues. It all depends on material type thermal flow, etc. and whether the cat next door has fleas. Basically tweak things until you get the right parameters then stick with them, that applies to injection molding machines or ejection (3D) machines.
Great series! Looking forward to episode 3
beautiful! wish i had something like this when i first got into speedprinting. really liked how you used flow rate to determine the max speed of a printer.
Thanks for your videos! They are very usefull. When will you upload the 3rd part?
A good way is to print and tune for features which you see, slow, and then full send it where you can't see it. This is where volumetric flow rate helps - you can set the number, and slicer cau automatically adjust speed based on that value. Another neat trick is to use extrusion width on infill - if you make sparse infill 0.8 mm instead of 0.4, then in order to fill the same % of volume, printer has to make fewer lines = fewer moves, which decreses overall print time.
Super Volcano has one flaw - structural heatbreak supporting block which is way too large and heavy. rapid movements and bumping into prints cause fatigue and heatbreak snaps.
You could do a follow up on this one. The infill and perimeter is key to print time. It is also key to the strength of the print and its aesthetics. Variable line height is really usefull for more organic parts, but for geometric parts, adjusting speed by layer height is crucial. Setting infill the same way, and layer height, line width, and perimeter, as manually by layer height, is a proven way to cut print time. It does increase the workflow and the workload, on the designer.
Also, if you design your own parts, designing for speed is often times crucial. When I do so, it is a combination of infill, perimeter, part dimensions, and the functionality required of the part. In particular, avoiding a solid first layer, as in rather use a pattern for the first layer, or a a mesh rather than a solid, typically is The action reducing print time.
Variable line height needs some assistance in Prusa Slicer, as it will use the entire range of line height, including the draft setting. This currently can only be adjusted at the printer setting.
It is also a complete unknown to people, how difficult single line printing is to get right. Once you really start inspecting infill quality and real strength of the infill, things never look the same again.
Very cool, thanks for the info!
I played around trying to get stuff printing faster and there is an important (minimum layer time) setting to lower when doing test prints like benchies.
Otherwise your layers will print slow no matter how fast you increase the speed/jerk/acceleration
yep! I covered minimum layer in episode 1, it trips a lot of people up, including me, I accidentally filed a bug report due to it once lol.
I am glad someone with some critical thinking ability is making a video like this, looks like it should be a very comprehensive series by the end of it.
Why is one of Steve's eyes bigger than the other though?
Steve got dropped on his head, he's fine though. Mostly.
3:50 grate example with the cheese. Grated cheese melts faster than solid chunks. There is a point at which the increased heat transfer due to more surface area is negated by increased viscous forces due to more surface area.
10:46 that part is important , even thought the FLSUN v400 advertised speeds are lower than the bambu ones , the flow rate of the v400 is way higher than any of the bambu ones , resulting in the v400 printing faster
Great topic! I learnt a lot thank you. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
--As I undersand Jerk--
Jerk = the slowest speed the printer slows down to when changing direction. While nothing can change direction instantaneously, it works in practice up to a certain value depending on the printer rigidity and moving weight.
Pros of using a high value is obviously reduced print speed.
However more overlooked is how it allows us to maintain a more stable pressure in the hotend. If you print with Jerk 10 and speed 10 the pressure is perfectly stable (except when retracted). With higher speed, the pressure in the hotend lags behind every time there is a speed change. This can be compensated for with linear/pressure advance. The smaller the difference between jerk and speed the better and less compensation is needed.
Drawback with a high jerk is increased vibrations and ringing.
I don’t know why I found it funny when you ran the print at an outrageously fast speed
3D PRINTER REPAIRMAN: "What's your flow like?"
CUSTOMER: "Some kind of tile, maybe linoleum"
Nice. I'm frustrated by cura not having the ability to limit speed by flow rate as well, and I normally spend my time saving playing with settings, but I'm also a fan of the big nozzle (who isn't?) 0.6 is my standard and I have a 1mm on my core xy at the moment, for vase mode experimentation, I've found that printing things without holes and drilling them later saves heaps of time as well. Anyway. Great vid, thanks again
I would be great if you had a test print that could help see what the max flow rate is and max speed and jurk.
Thanks for the video and the information.
Just subbed, but then I saw your unit 1 themed Voron so I decided to leave a comment as well!
You can also increase the max. flow rate by making the heat block hotter. The problem of course is that the speed at which you push filament through varies a lot and you want that filament to melt but also not get too hot. How much heat can get pumped into it increases as the surrounding temperature (of heat block and nozzle) increases, but this temperature cannot vary that fast. Putting it higher increases the max. flow rate, but also increases the risk of "overcooking" the plastic. A small but faster heater (like the REVO) can also help here as it is faster at regulating pumping heat into the smaller heat block and as that block is smaller it also has less latent heat that could overcook the plastic when it is pushed out slowly. I would expect a REVO ring-heater combined with CHT-like nozzle could be better than a volcano (as control over the flow would be better with the shorter melt-zone), but I don't know whether this exists or is even possible with the "unified" approach of the REVO.
Just cut a 15h print down to 6 just increasing line width from 0.4 to 0.6 and overall flow to 110%
If you set in cura the same increased acceleration values you setup in the firmware, it will give more accurate print time predictions.
I expect that internal surface area is the limit for the fancy hotends, but not stock ones. Improving the metal used for the block and nozzle (brass vs copper), the output of the heater cartridge (40W vs 50W+), and the extruder's maximum pressure (single vs dual gear) can all give better flow rates.
Copper is an interesting point. I should test that
Most of the time I just dont care how long does it take to print an object - I would gladly even sacrifice time to quality of the final print. ( But slow doesn't always mean good)
Thanks for putting this out there! Off to find part 1 of this.
Inquiring minds want to know:
• Does V0 have a name yet?
• And where are the googly eyes going?
Both good questions 😉
The super volcano is used on hexvort's printer, and he doesn't seem to have issues with it (at least mellow's design) you probably could do better by using a spiral in the heater block but you'd have to sinter the heater block for that
Really! I know the voron team ....to put it mildly...they don't like it 🤣 that's what I was laughing about, I can't even show their quote
@@LostInTech3D AFAIK MirageC uses Mosquito Magnum+ not Supervolcano.
The cht seems really promising. For my custom corexy printer i will go for a cheap v6 and in case that turns out to be my speed bottleneck I’ll upgrade to that. Even outperforms the volcano by a fair bit. (At least according to stephan at cnc kitchen
I really need to get one 😂
0.4 mm on MK8 hotend (with or without bi-metal heatbreak) was worse than Creality 0.4 mm nozzles (PLA+ if that matters). So it could be 20€ for improvement or 20€ for nothing. CHT could be better in V6, V6 in general is better than MK8 😉
Have you put _two_ links to the fish in the description, so they can tesselate? ;)
Also, square corner velocity video, with more science? Sign me up!
So i have something called a Separate Bowden extruder i think. Does this make any difference to something?
I cannot find part 1, can you link it please?
Some Goofy ahh thing that happens with my slicers is that layer height sometimes doesnt make a difference with my print speed. I guess a just got a good cura setting :D
i don't see flow rate on line view, checked on set-up but can't see option, i have cura 4.2
@Lost In Tech what is the reason your flsun v400 acceleration goes from 4K to 8K and your square corner velocity from 20 to 5 in that clip around 10:30??
Was I showing the biqu hurakan in some of the screenshots? it's a while ago
@@LostInTech3D nah, I was talking about the speeder pad. I was asking because mine does the same change with a "redo" type circle with arrow that sets it back to 8000 and 5 when selected
Sadly my v0 cant go fast starts skipping at like 300mm/s 15k accel stealth chop
Turn off stealth chop
All I know is,I am fighting with my Elegoo Neptune 3 printer at this time after many times of it having a damn fully blocked hot end and me spending tons of time having to strip down the whole hot end to un-block the damn thing?
I have done that 4 times today and even changed the PTFE tubing to new length and cleared out the filament blocks over and again and still it blocks no matter how much I increase the heat and yes I reduced the flow down as low as 60% and the printing speed down to 40% the hot end ( MK 8 type ) even was at one time running at 245 C just to try too clear out Pro PLA that was blocking the hot end again, even though
I had fully cleared it and even used cleaning filament to flush out any left over filament from before?
This was after re-doing the leveling using the in-built advanced mesh bed leveling. over 5 times and setting the z off set also over 5 times too.
No matter how well it was all sorted the damn hot end blocked up each damn time no matter the cleaning down?
This printer was fantastic for some time after I got it. Now tons of bad prints and blocking up no matter the cleaning and setting up?
The retractions are normal Cura 4.11 version ( 5 mm ) for the Neptune 3. I really fed up with this load of problems and I still have the Aquila head to un-block too and it is a high temp version
( 300 c at this time but could if fitted go up to 550 c ) and the Tronxy X5SA printer I have also head is blocked too all were fine for some time now all playing up. even my FLSUN Delta QQ-S Pro is mucking me around too now? it also was fine for some time before. Takes allot of time to keep stripping their hot ends down and cleaning and re-setting them! I never had so much hell?
Damn it. And no before anyone states oh just use Cura 5. I can't load it as not using win 10 I using win 7 Pro. and no it it works safely no worries as I have great anti-virus and such software.
Hey, hop on discord...we might have some suggestions
I passed through something similar. One time it was because I changed to a all metal hot end and I forgot to change the retraction in Cura, so it retracted too much and cooled down blocking everything. Next time it was when I unblocked it but I forgot to screw everything very tight, and when hot, so plastic started going out from all places, making me clean everything again. A block can also be a cause of not cutting the PTFE really flat and plastic starts flowing where it shouldn't. I'd start reducing the retraction a bit if you don't seem to find a clear problem causing them
Do you have any profiles you have “dialed in” for the “best” fast prints you want to share ? I have an ender 3 pro and use cura.
The problem with this is that, and this is why I made this series, it's very dependent on what your model needs.
Learning how to adjust around maybe 10 parameters yourself is way more useful than using a profile, so I'd always recommend using the default ender profile and just changing what you need for that application, if that makes sense
@@LostInTech3D - It seems to me that many of us would rather start with a fast profile optimized by someone else and make minor changes to it rather than to reinvent the wheel by starting g with an “out of the box” slow printing profile and screwing around with attempting to optimize 10 printing parameters.
Or maybe I’m the only lazy one out here looking for the fastest way to accomplish my goal.
i heard someone say they print 120mms is that pushing it to its max?
Haha no
yeah no mine can print at 180mm/s
please share your v400 settings. I cant print fast on mine. It'll knock the print off.
The v400 has a tendency to overextrude. Try the default profile but around 93% flow rate.
How does this scale for a 0.6 nozzle?
Same - as you maybe saw flash past, arachne engine is very flexible about nozzle size vs extrude size, and rightly so. I think of nozzle size as a range of available extrude widths, and they overlap a fair bit.
Where is Episode 1?
@6:40 your cc says you're missing two diagrams/photos here.
Busted 😂
Trying to increase the speed is the brute force method like adding more horsepower to your shitty car instead of improving it´s aerodynamics and weight.
Same goes here, increasing the print speed should be probably the last step. Here is what you can do before that.
1. Thicker layer widths, you can print 0.8mm layer width with 0.4mm Nozzle easily
2. When fine resolution is needed for example 0.12mm layer height I turn on "combine infill every n layer" and in my case set it so 2 layers, with 0.1mm layer height you can choose combine every 3 layers.
3. You can add small radii in your design so the printhead does not come to an almost stop at the corners and create corner bulge.
4. You could use lightning infill and decrease outer peremeter to 2 and later on fill your model with hot glue, concrete, sand in a plastic bag + hot glue or exopy etc.
You might want to check the hazard of filament nanoparticles...DONT brush your machine down, use filter vacuum with airflow in the room...a lot of reports i the last year about hazards
I have HEPA filtration in here, it's never a bad idea. Most of the dust is paper for..reasons.
I just did a #2. That's why I'm late. 👍💩
Edit: You are the Stefan Gotteswinter of 3D printing. Just a bit more excited.
Ohhh I like his intro style!
Woooot i hit the 1k like
Or just use PrusaSlicer, set the maximum speed, max volumetric speed, reduce "slow down if layer print time is below" parameter, and let it figure out everything for you.
17 mins with Bambu P1P 0.4 nozzle
Yes I could beat that on the v400 and the voron tbh. The vid is about maximising what you have which is why I focused on the ender, otherwise the answer is always "buy new one"
Lol the time you save printing is offset by about 4x increase in experimenting and set up but thank you for the info. This job is for an AI app with a one button click that 1st measures all the parameters of printer with a set up test then adjusts all the parameters for the filiiment then sets up the whole machine with the 10000 bits of data it has and then monitors the printing process in Pico second increments to make sure the spec it came up with is confirmed with perfectly and make on the fly adjustments when necessary. This is the way to print plastic cat poo to perfection although the taste may not appeal to your dog 😂😂.
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