62TE Rebuild Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.พ. 2020
- It took me a while but I managed to film rebuilding a 62TE. Was filmed around October, took a while to put together. Part one is the Input drum and compounder assembly. Next week will have the valve body. I forgot to mention some clutch clearances but I do that next week in the beginning of the video. Hope you all enjoy this.
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I’ve rebuilt many the manual transmission in my days, but up until recently have never had cause to rebuild an automatic. The better half’s Journey decided it was time to change that. Your video series on the 62TE have greatly demystified automatics for me.
Initially thought it was just a torque converter failure, but upon disassembly learned that the input drum had basically come apart. Bearing failure, thrust washer breakage, as well as physical damage to input shaft, inner drum, and both hubs. Thankfully the carnage was contained within the drum.
Same here, same problem, same challenge with a crazy quote from the workshop. Working thru it slowly purely due to cost and passion to learn. The video is great!
@@WaheedAbdurahman It really wasn’t too bad of a job. It was really more of a headache getting it in and out of the car. Pretty tight quarters under the hood of the car. Didn’t help any I was doing it in my driveway. Having a lift would have made it easier.
The transmission itself wasn’t too bad. Just take it bit by bit. Make sure all the snap rings, seals, and such are facing the direction they should be, and double check clutch clearances. I put one of the plates in backwards and couldn’t figure out why there was so much clearance.
This video series really was a great tool for the build.
Really enjoyed your video. You have great teaching skills! 🍻
Great job . New Veh they have all to the smallest posible , even the name for it compounder clutch .
All compacted .
I like the way you snuck that o'ring into it's correct position
Awesome video like always very well presented with lots of passion for this highly specialized field when a teacher displays his passion it makes the learner more focused and willing to learn. Last but not least the cleanliness just too good
Can't wait to see the next part
Rafiek from South Africa Johannesburg
Rafiek Ahmed Thank you and thanks for watching. I was taught a clean transmission is a working transmission.
Rafiek Ahmed Thank you and thanks for watching. I was taught a clean transmission is a working transmission.
AWESOME GUY! very nice job
Great job, good content! Thank you, Gary.
Thank You
Thanks Gary, with a mallet and also I put transmission fluid all around to decrease resistance it worked and able to thick snap ring on
Modern transmissions with multiple clutches, pistons, drums all in one assembly are incredible. The only things I've worked on are older and have 1 drum 1 function. Unless you count the direct/reverse in a TH400. Much more complex in these units. The ZF8HP series is really complex. Great work Gary, this should be a very nice unit for the customer, especially with the updated drum. See you next week.
Ok Luke, as always nice to hear from you, thanks for chiming in.
I have learned very much sir!Thanks a lot god bless you.
This video is so much better than the "factory training" I received from Chrysler at their school in Kennesaw. Hard to learn anything when there's only one instructor for 10 students and only two transmissions for each class to learn on.
Thanks for watching Randy
What do they teach you? How to take it down, and put the new one in? They don't teach dealer guys how to do this anymore.
I like the fact that the 62te is close as fragile as the first 41te's have been 30 years ago.
But thats what makes rebuilders live, lots of 62te's out there...
Anyway, i cant imagine having anybody else rebuild my transmissions then you, perfect knowlegde and work, respect!!
Great job Gary! Clean and smooth workmanship.
TakeCare,
Bill
Very great job!
Awesome, thank you Gary.
Thank You
Love it. Thank you.
I use to work in 6200 assembly at the Kokomo Transmission Plant before they recently stopped production and tore out the line. Love this transmission.
wow, cool
@@GaryFerraro kinda nostalgic watching this. We use to build around 1100 per shift. Nice job on the build!
@@zach9373 Thanks, very cool, all brand new parts, were the units ran on a dyno?
@@zach9373 Are you a pilot? been flying since the 80's myself, I have private and instrument ratings
@@GaryFerraro there were 6 final test stands in 6200. Each units were ran for around 2 minutes each. The test stands were driven by a large 3 phase electric motor rather than an engine. I worked on every team in that department through the years, and spent around 2 years on the team we called “main repair”. We would fix any transmissions that would fail test stands based on what codes the test stands would spit out upon failure. Also I spent time in other departments for 6 speed. Machining cases, transfer and output gears, pump housings and rotors, also valve bodies. I now work in 8 speed final assembly building 845RE & 850RE transmissions.
Gracias amigo, me fue de mucha utilidad estoy aprendiendo inglés con duolingo solo para entender ,inglés y gracias ya logré entender este video
english homie
Your a life saver dude great videos i love the details, you break it down to every little detail 👌🏼
Thank you. Glad it helped
Thanks Gary, your video is a godsend!!!
I'm new to rebuilding a 62TE and your video is just what I was looking for, thank you again.
I just bought a core 62te for $100 and when I went to pickup it was a rebuilt unit from mopar build date 11/2017 I'm planning on breaking it down tomorrow morning and was wondering if there was anything I should look for, I did an ohms check to see if anything was obvious like selenoid pak, ok so far.
these converters go bad a lot, maybe has clogged screen
You'da man Gary !!!
Thank you
Very informativ videos!! 10x!!!
Hi Gary, I did the compounder assembly on my 2010 town and country 4.0 for reverse issues and P0792, P0734, P0733 codes. The ring was almost off the end of the drum. The clutches all looked good and I couldn't source any replacement ones, so I reused those. I replaced all the rings and seals in the drum that came with the mopar overhaul kit and also the low piston. I went through the valve body and replaced the seal and the 2-4 clutch seal. I didn't remove the input drum though because I left it in the car. Now I am having the issue of on a hard acceleration from a stop there is something clearly slipping, but no codes. I dropped the trans and removed the input drum and everything is looking good. Any thoughts on where in the transmission that slipping could be coming from?
Gary, since you have your share of those transmissions in for rebuilds is their failure due to high mileage and lack of maintenance or an issue with design? Great full length videos and knowledge
I remember the 'Original STP from the 60's and 70's, it was thicker than frozen honey, with Todays engines and miniscule orifices certainly not a suggestion by any manufacturer
2013 dodge grand caravan do have any ideas why it drives about 30 feet and drops into neutral this symptom was there before and after I rebuild it did I miss something possibly in the transmission just curious if you have come across this
Gary, years back when I used to work at a shop they sent me to a transmission seminar. The one thing I heard multiple times that was one of the top causes of the transmission failure with these electronic transmissions was due to people not coming to a complete stop when going from reverse to drive.... doing those rolling shifts. You seem very knowledgeable... so was wondering on your input? The Chrysler speaker said it multiple more times than the Ford or GM guys.
Also, too many use the "P" gear like it's a Parking Brake. I am very adamant about using the Parking Brake in Neutral (like a standard) then shifting into Park with the foot on the service brake the entire time.
Hi Gary,Thanks for your videos,professional information.
I have a Chrysler Town & Country 2010 with a problem on the Transmission,some times it stock on speed 50 miles and cant go further speed and if you push more gas the RPM go to the max almost.some times if i stop the car and turn off then on the problem disapeers.
I took it to Transmission shop and he checks it on the computer and there was error with one of the selenoids ,He also drives the car and check the transmission,and if he put the gear on Reverse down hill the car will go down and vise versa up hill.
also he checks the tiptronic was not working.
He want to rebuild the transmission ,to change the computer valve body and the bad parts inside the clutches.
The cost is not cheap, so i decide to buy the original parts from chrysler and let him do the job.
Is there a Master kit that i should buy from chrysler parts shop ,or do i have all parts inside the transmission includes the torque and others?
Saludos y Bendiciones, por acá un amigo que lo sigue y estudia con sus videos, una pregunta: En el minuto 43:10 se le pasó colocar el priner rodamiento de dos que lleva el eje, o sea donde asienta y gira el distribuidor, me imagino que tuvo que corregir eso después, ud hace referencia a que lleva dos rodillos con cesta plásticas que abren !
What can cause one of this to go into limp mode after rebuild? Has reverse but it wont move on forward. It engages into drive but it won’t move. Everything inside is new! Including new solenoid block and converter. Any ideas?
Hi Gary, great job, thank you for your great explanation! What kind of electric tool from DeWalt you used for the preliminary tightenings of screws? Is it screw driver or torque wrench? Thanks a lot!
I have a small dewalt impact wrench i use only for valvebodies
just wondering why you just dont use transmission fluid to assemble the parts
Hi Mr. Ferraro,
It is great video on rebuilding the 62te.
Is there a difference in friction plates for under drive and overdrive clutches. I am working on a 2012 Grand Caravan. Please give your advise.
Not frictions, steels are different, they are thicker, you can I.D them by a small notch cut in the tab of the steel plate
you say a typical problem with these is a clogged screen, what or which screen ? What you describe kind of sounds like the van I'm working on right now, it's my son's 2012 Town and Country, they say it just stopped shifting one day, no prior problems or symptoms according to them, I looked at it, it had codes P0733, P0846 and P083b and it screeched whined like a banshee (interestingly when it whined it would shift but when it went quiet it would not shift, I expected it to be making noise constantly) got online to see results for the error codes and symptoms and ended up changing filter and fluid, that helped for a couple of days and then no shift, checked the resistances on solenoid block and all seemed to be good but went ahead and changed TCC solenoid, the line pressure solenoid and the pressure switch, that did not work either. If it sits either overnite or for an hour or two it will shift, it is making noise but stops shifting fairly soon. I dropped the transmission this last week but have not decided what to do yet, am leaning towards getting a rebuilt transmission, less work for me, but the curious, problem solver part of me wants to know what happened. When I first changed filter it was pretty clogged/dirty but fluid wasn't too bad and no big particles or pieces of anything. The 2nd time I opened it up (had maybe 120 miles put on it) everything looked okay but in the short time there was a lot of sludge on magnet. Anyway like I said at first it sounds like what you are describing, at first it shifts but soon as it warms up a little, no shift.
What is The número of The sonax bushing?
grazie.top 👍
Hello I just rebuilt my 62te and I have reverse but it won’t move forward at all my hydraulic pressure is good according to my scanner any help is appreciate
Hi Gary what's your advice on the 2000-2004 odyssey transmissions as far as keeping them running as long as possible other than a fluid change every 20.000mi? Great video 👍
Thats really all you can do, Just a drain and fill maybe once a year. How many miles do you do in a year
Love your videos! As daunting as it would be to disassemble and rebuild an automatic transmission, I'd almost feel confident tackling such a job, using your videos as a guide. I have a 2013 T&C and therefore, a 62TE. Just finished a pan drop, filter replacement and pan with plug installation. I use AppCardiagFCA to get the trans temp and use the level chart. I used about 6 quarts for the refill. About week before that, I evacuated and refilled about 5 quarts (2 or so at a time). I measured and scribed on the backside of my engine oil level dipstick for the high and low marks based on the chart.
Two questions though...Do you have a system for keeping track of all the fasteners, clips, rings etc so you know which part goes back where? I'm guessing you know them inside and out. I suppose it's like anything else, one just needs a system. Secondly, I have read how finicky these transmissions are about fluid (friction modifiers, viscosity), ATF+4. All that trans gel and STP you're slathering on there, I'm guessing it isn't enough to mess with the finely tuned ATF+4 chemistry? Again, always appreciate watching your videos.
EDIT: Just thought of something else, and of course I'll understand if you don't have the time to answer my questions. I just find this stuff fascinating and trying to learn.
I have an app called OBD Fusion. It can retrieve a lot of information. Right now, I have line pressure (desired an actual - these are in agreement all the time). I also have LR, OD, UD, 2-4 clutch fill volumes (CVI). These are all within spec. I understand that these values can increase as the clutch material wears? So, if they exceed the maximum value in the specs, does that mean my clutches are worn? Other than line pressure and CVI, what other variables could a person look at to determine the overall health of the transmission without opening it up?
Hi Adam, Thanks for the post.
I don't really have a system, most parts are in a basket that goes into my wash tank, very small parts, like snap rings, roll pins, pump bolts, and bearings are laid out on a rag, these parts i do not like to put in my wash tank. This trans main gear train is basically a 41TE(A604) and they just added the compounder assembly for the rest of the gearing. I can't keep these transmissions on the shelf, very hot item, currently have a waiting list for people to bring there car in, so i have to get one built. I use the CVI value to look at wear inside, this is really all i look at to determine what has to be done. Yes, the higher the CVI the clutch is becoming worn out, the lower the CVI, for some reason clutch pack is to tight, sometimes a snap ring will break and get jammed in a clutch pack causing a very low CVI. I probably rebuild one of these units every week
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the reply. Interesting stuff. I'm watching your whole series on the 62TE rebuild. Haha, sounds like some day I may have to use them. I'm going to poke around the net to find more info. I want to find out when Chrysler started using the upgraded, non-rotating seals on the low clutch drum. I expect they did so after my 2013 rolled off the production line. I wonder if normal fluid contamination (small abrasives) contributes to accelerated wear on the ring lands and if fresh fluid on a more regular basis would slow the wear.
@@acbent11 I think they did update the rings after 2013, i would say yes to abrasives speeding up the process but the rings do spin and that what wears down the lands
WHAT DO YOU USE THE STP FOR
Thank you for the thorough 62TE videos. My 2015 Journey 3.6 62TE with 135K probably needs work. Do you know of a good mechanic in Los Angeles? Do you ship your rebuilds? I'm noticing 1/2 sec. shutters into 5th and 6th. 1st gear under heavier acceleration has a noise & vibration that goes away easing off the gas, it happens in 2nd as well. Some coast clunking too
I do not know of any shops in your area. Has it been checked by a trans shop
Hi Gary. I think your presentation is great, you should have been a professor in a university. I have a question, I am working on a 62te automatic v6 sxt and for some reason I can not put the rebuild compound and hub far enough down to put the snap ring on. I've checked everything twice and the assembly is right. Any ideas?
sometimes i have to hit with a dead blow or rubber hammer to get it past the snap ring groove have you tried that? It may not go all the way down on it's own
Does the end nut usually come with the overhaul kit?
no, does not
What is recoment rebult kit for that compounder? Im looking hard cant find one
If your just want the compounder assembly, dealer may sell it as a unit.
@GaryFerraro I would like to know more about the foot press that you use.
We have that for years and just bought the Little tripod a few years ago, if you google foot press may find something
Outstanding information. Is there any rebuild kit out there you recommend? Thank you
TranTec kits, thats all i use or OE but for this trans Transtec is good
@@GaryFerraro thank you very much
Please give us a link where we can order all that please help
I followed everything and reinstalled. Transmission shifts fine only thing is the car feels like it's holding back. Kind of like I driving with the brake on. Any ideas.
Have you tried a quick learn? You overhauled the trans?
Watching you in action is actually better in some ways to actually going to training. You can’t remember everything when you leave the classroom.
How did you get into the transmission rebuilding game?
Family business since the 1960s
We're do you buy the rebuild kits and brand recommend.
I purchase from Transtar and only use TransTec kits
Gary....I'm rebuilding right now and can not get the input retainer spline to mate with spline on input hub....tried everything. it starts but stops way before fully pressed together. I've tried clamp pressure....lots of pressure...will not move.
How do the splines look? Never had that problem.Was the trans busted up?
@@GaryFerraro pretty std screen clog both bushing sets in over drive and under drive hub were coming apart. Lots of metal in pan. Splines look fine to me and they do start but only about 1/16 of an inch and then stop. I'm baffled as well. Seems it should slide right in. Thinking to get a different one and try but does not really make sense as it came apart very easy...slid right out with a few light taps.
Thanks for responding. Your the greatest.
Shrike 0064, your post did not show, but to answer your question, yes
I don't understand English, so I am writing with the help of a translator. I have a question about a gear that turns in one direction and does not turn the other. Which way should it spin freely, clockwise or counterclockwise ???
If you are talking about the sprag in the low drum on the 62TE Freewheel counter clockwise and lock clockwise. Hold the drum and turn the outer race of the sprag
The side that has the smooth perimeter and faces needs to turn countercloclwise
Sorry side facing up then counter
62te rebuild part4 please post it
Hey Gary, where can I buy a good rebuild kit for the 62te?
where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro Charlotte North Carolina
@@angelosantiago2399 Do you know what parts you need?, i may be able to help you with parts
Gary, where can I purchase the metal bushing you replaced?
which one? pump or for the Overdrive hub?
92004-L
It’s strange because the Sonnax website doesn’t say it’s for the 62TE.
when i first called about it long time ago they said not to use it, then i called back a while later and said its ok to use@@mikec2220
Hi Gary, I've rebuilt a 62te after failure of the input hub bearing, now it has reverse but has no drive and code p084b. I can clear the code but it comes back after shifting to drive. Valve body and solenoids seem to be good. What can be the issue?
What is the definition of that code?
@@GaryFerraro DC pressure switch rationality
Today came up p0731 gear ration error in 1st
and p1790 fault immediately after shift
So, these 3 at once came up
After switching to drive the car moves a bit and stops, at that time the present gear shows 3rd
Now got an extra code p0841 LR pressure switch rationality
@@sebos5 How is reverse?
Gary, what kind of scanner do I need to program my rebuilt tranny to finish the job? Is it called flash, relearn, or program? I'm trying to find the correct scanner that will be suitable to complete my rebuilding DYI? Thank you!
When it's done you want to do a Quick Learn. I did a video about a month ago on a great scanner for the DIY-er check it out, doesalmost evrything my snap-on scanner does. Do you know anyone witha snap-on or Autel san tool?
I'm looking to purchase an Autel scanner, and found out yesterday that flash, program, and relearn is the same thing. Thanks for your help, Gary.
@@waynel680 Autel is a good scanner
@@GaryFerraro talked to Autel tech support this afternoon, and they told me that they don't sell a scanner that contains Quick Learn. They do sell a unit for $800 that only programs the various sections of the computer such as TCM. My local Chrysler dealer charges $150 plus tax for them to complete this task.
@@waynel680 I can't see it not having it, the smaller scan tools do not but the larger ones do. My lead tech has a small hand held scanner he uses through his phone, it's a great scanner for 100, let me see if i can have him hook it up to a Dodge we have there to see if it has the quick learn feature
Thanks for this series, you are a great teacher!
What would you recommend for a 2014 62te with 200k on it, It started to have a clunk at 4-3 3-2 2-1 coast downshift, mainly 3-2, all upshifts have always felt good, changed solenoid pack, cleaned valve body, inspected the 2-4 valve with no sights of wear, did a quick learn and made no changes, I live in maryland 20677
Did you happen to scan the car to see if any codes are present? very surprised quick learn did not change anything.
No it never popped any codes, I use appcar diagfca as my main scanner, there was a decent amount of clutch material in the pan but nothing big, I was just thinking maybe the clutch material worn out to much, the car is driven heavy with performance mods done to the 3.6 and do about 40k miles a year for work.
Also wanted to do a rebuild just for the heavy use and high mileage, I can't seem to track down a transtec kit yet, I can get the mopar 68272621ab easily but thus does not come with the clutch packs and can't find the right clutch packs that come with frictons and steels
@@bryansteele4458 Where are you located?
Last reply did not show, if you can't find let me know, i may be able to help you
what is the difference between green and blue paste color ?? it is the maim thing not ???
green is a thicker grease than blue
Disculpa tengo una pregunta reconstrui una transmicion ,con apoyo de tus videos cambie las ligas y puse pastas nuevas , antes cambiaba ,pero la primera chillaba mucho y ya reconstruida no cambia nada , y eso si ya no sumba ,y estira con fuerza , que me quedaría mal , si pudieras ayudarme, gracias de antemano
Translation
???
@@joelgamboa4980 Can you translate to english?
Is there no benefit to soaking the frictions?
There is but when checking clearance, to make sure it's within spec i do not soak the clutch,
I have dodge promaster whit te62 shift hard from 1-2 and 2-3. What u think what problem is?
Have it scanned for codes. Sounds like high line pressure
@@GaryFerraro yes no codes
@@anicamilenkovic4791 was anything done to the truck before this happened? Almost sounds like a bad EPC solenoid in the solenoid pack
@@GaryFerraro no just start hepening slowly
It kind of jerks between a first and second gear and second and third. Only. Car has a 250000 miles. No codes what do you think? What’s the best thing to do?
Lost reverse in my wife's 2011 T&C, they are telling me $5000 to fix. Car not worth that much. You must be an expert at these now, is it possible to replace just the rotational rings that causes the problem? Or is a whole rebuild in order?
Should really be rebuilt but 5000. is way out of line, i do these retail for 1500 less
@@GaryFerraro hi where is your shop located
@@muradomari6980 I'm in New York
What gears is the input drum
Input drum has 3 sets of clutches. Reverse, overdrive and Underdrive
Thanks Gary great videos
Your timing is perfect for my repair. Thank you for making this video. Why don't you get an affiliate link for transmission parts? Your help has been invaluable to me.
Thanks for watching, I purchase all my parts from Transtar
Where do I buy parts for my 62TE because I would highly enjoy rebuilding my older trustworthily unit? Thank you!
Where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro I'm sorry for not mentioning my location. It's Columbus Ohio. I could also get the parts delivered by common carrier if needed. Also. Would any scanner that relearns work in programming the rebuild to the TCM? I'm looking for a decent scanner hopefully for under $1,000. Could you recommend a reliable scanner within that price range? Thank you!
@@waynel680 I did a video about a month ago, check it out it's a great scanner that does what my snap-on does and it's 120.00
Go to Amazon and type in Thinkdiag. Tool is made by Think Tool
Do you know what parts you need or do you need help with that?
A master kit that includes bearings, gaskets, and seals would be great for starters. Thanks
Well done uncle Garry! Why dont you soak frictions before assembly?
Thank you, i honestly never really did that but of course wouldn't hurt to do that
First I had a P0740 code, which I replaced the tcc solenoid first, didn’t help and then I replaced the torque converter. Now I am getting p2764 anyone have any advice? Transmission doesn’t shift.
what is the definition of that code?
Deffenition is Trouble Code: Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Low.
I did test the solenoids through the connector at the pan, everything seem to have checked out.
@@robzlrclub93 Problem seems electrical, if you clear the code how fast does it come back?
It comes back almost right away as pending, haven’t gotten it to be a hard fault. Going to check the resistance of the solenoid at the connector. If I get a good reading then I figure the issue has to be outside the transmission.
I got 5.8 ohms for the tcc solenoid. Then checked for power on pin 10. Wasn’t getting any voltage, thought it might be on limp mode because of the fault. Ignored that theory for now and swapped out the pcm relay then was getting 12v at the transmission pin 10. Can test any further at this time but I am hopeful this will resolve the issue. Thanks for your responses.
Could I see the very very beginning please
You mean a teardown?
DID THE 62TE BEGIN IN 2007
around 2008
thanks@@GaryFerraro
Where is part 4☹️
working on it as we speak, will post tomorrow morning