1. Check the coil in the motor starter. 2. Check the centrifugal switch in the motor. 3. Meg the motor with a insulation tester, run & start windings. 4. Check your fuses for voltage drop, not just continuity. I hope that helps.
Motor current draw will increase as pressure increases, due to the pump working harder against receiver pressure. That motor is running too hot, more than likely due to one or both of the caps being defective. Motor caps are one of the most common faults on compressors, and is a common reason for them being scrapped! I've bought many spares or repairs units that just needed caps to restore to full working condition. T30's are one of the best ever piston recip compressors, I have a model 234 3hp single phase here in the UK, I'll probably wear out before it does! Make sure to change the oil twice a year regardless of hours and it will go on forever.
You would be better off with a 5hp. Moter..you got a 7 hp. Unit.. the older IR units like yours are better units then what sold today ..at tractor supply stores..a 5hp moter will draw less amps. Use # 6 wire..from main fuse box to magnetic starter..as a rule of thumb..on a 5 hp. Unit..to be safe..u have some old boxs on the wall from. The 1960s or 70s..might want to upgrade if this is in your home shop...I'm using a 30 dbl pole on my 5hp. Unit and # 6 wire from main box to magnetic starter. All new from main power supply..to be safe. Ty for your video enjoyed it..
I agree with some of the other comments in that you do have a bad motor. The easiest and quickest way is to replace the motor (~$500) but you might be able to save money and spend some sweat to rebuild that motor with new bearing, caps and cap switches. It should only be drawing about 34FLA at start up and around 28A at kickout. On that second start where you wired past the 30A fuses I could hear the motor laboring and not hitting full RPM. Cheers.
That company FLIR is 10 min from my house it’s a big government building with high security. They do a lot of secret work for the government. I know for a fact because I know people who work there. Thank you for the video
***** There are two caps on the side of the motor, but I think they are already wired in series, iirc. I did check them and both checked fine on my LCR meter, proper capacitance and low ESR. I also just switched to slow blow fuses, frn instead of non. This may make all the difference. I also never did try the rpm meter I got...
I just bought an identical unit, debating take a trailer to pick it up OR disconnect the pump motor, fan guard etc, and just load the tank, pump, motor etc Separately into the tahoo with out the back seat, I have six foot to play with. One very good way is to mount that style tank onto thicker than two bye fours, I used cut oak like three inches thick and five inches wide and put one inch rubber pads under the boards with screws. I have two other eighty gallon tanks that I have done that with in the garage now, IMO you should have kept that unit, you never know when you might need some good air pressure.
To solve your problem simply move the air compressor over to the electrical panel where you have the 50 amp fuses and install 6 awg wiring from the bottom of the fuses to the starter. Right now they way it is wired the small wire is most likely causing a voltage drop causing the wiring to overheat. The amp draw per the engineering data sheet is 40 amps so at a 1.5 service factor the max amp draw should not exceed 46 amps at 175 psi. If the amp draw is higher than this you should check / replace the motor bearings most likely.
+Steve Vess I had a similar problem with a small air compressor I put together. It would run fine on a 20 amp circuit at my house, but after I took it to the site, it wouldn't run on a questionable circuit. If I wheeled it somewhere else, even plugged into a 25 foot, 12 gauge extension cord, it would run fine. I find it odd that the motor in this video takes so long to come up to speed. I wonder if it's a combination of undervoltage AND week capacitors.
SIX YEARS LATER IT LOOKS TO ME AS IF EVERYTHING IS OK...EXCEPT FOR THE MOTOR FEEDER CIRCUIT. THE CONDUCTORS SHOULD BE SIZED AT 125% OF THE MOTOR FLA (ACTUALLY 2017 NEC TABLE 430-248) NOT THE BREAKER OR FUSE SIZE. OVERLOAD PROTECTION FOR THE CONDUCTORS IS PROVIDED BY THE MOTOR CONTROLLER OR AN INTERNALL THERMALLY PROTECTED MOTOR. THE FUSES OR BREAKER ONLY PROVIDE FAULT PROTECTION. THEY CAN BE SIZED AT UP TO 400% OF THE FLA FOR SOME CONFIGURATIONS. i WOULD TRY 60 TO 80 AMPS FOR A TYPICAL INVERSE TIME THERMAL-MAGNETIC BREAKER. BREAKERS OVER FUSES ANYDAY!
Hello DIY Yes this is a very old post Just curious if DIY guy is still checking in on his post I have the exact same compressor Exactly the same I kept looking and trying to see where the wires went for the low oil cut off switch Snap shot pics and all could not see Could you help a guy out and take a picture of where they go When I brought it home the oil switch broke and wires were pulled out
Did you fix it? A 5hp 1725rpm motor and a smaller motor pulley (make compressor run about 8-900rpm) and lower the cutout pressure to about 120psi. This will allow it work in an electrically challenged environment. 7.5hp is for continuous use at 175psi, a little large for a home garage. Yeah you got a real deal...or you should be charged with theft, lol.
Hi, interesting issue. I feel 99% confident the problem lies in the motor itself. I noticed a couple of times the motor had more of a whyne and it seamed it was not quite up to full speed. On a single phase motor that is a capacitor start and capacitor run there is a centrifugal switch in the motor behind the bell housing on the opposite end of the shaft. These can stick in the closed position leaving the run caps in sequence, however, i noticed the motor had that same whyne for a brief second during the couple of times it didn't blow the fuses. It could be a weak run cap. Let me know if you need more help. Scott
That compressor needs a 60 amp disconnect -it draws near 50 amps at startup with inrush current and then settles down to 32 amps running. There is probably nothing wrong with it other than your feed is to small. You will have a fire eventually running this improper circuit. 60 amp disconnect fed by 50 amp breakers and number 6 awg wire. Pull new wire and replace the disconnect and you are golden. Disconnects come 30 or 60-there is no 45. you will ruin that motor doing what you are doing.
I have the exact same compressor and i am an industrial electrician. If your wire is undersized you will have a fire and will wreck that motor. If after you get the circuit up to code and the motor is faulty it is more than likely the start or run capacitors in the top bell of the motor-a cheap easy fix for any motor shop- 30, and 60 dollars respectively. Also the centrifugal switch could need cleaned or replaced-cheap. If the motor is bad and i dont believe from watching your video that it is, then order one from Baldor/ Reliance-400 dollars if you go to a factory shop. ( 800 plus retail ). get your circuit right and it should work. The unloader being bad is more than likely why the folks scrapped the compressor-but if it is a motor you can fix it too. Read the manual from IR online it will tell you what i say is true.
How far away is your breaker panel? #8 wire is all you need ,it's rated for 50 A that motor draws 40, you can find used, fused 60A disconnect switches that will take 50A fuses. Go ask an electrician if he can hook you up with one.Be nice, buy him a beer. Your starter coil is weak or , it can be replaced, I can hear it buzzing, change your two pole breaker to a 50A two pole. Fuses should be slow blow types discos are rated 30 , 60 and 100 usual sizes. Reply and ask me I am electrician sitting at home sheltering in place and BORED crap this thread is older than dirrt
wow how do have a 7.5 hp motor running on 240v single faze ??? i love the ingersol rand t30 pumps my dad had one in the 70s running with a 10hp 3 phaze and paid over £2500 back then and its probberly still working somewere!
Ahh I see I'm currently running a 2.2kw 3hp 240v (UK) with a cleark 14cfm pump plumbed to a 150litre tank and is working well for my needs but would love a t30 and 3phase electric supply
GameTechUS Not 2 legs of 3 phase it is 1 phase split. Look up split phase power and you will see that only one leg of a three phase system is used. If it were 2 legs of 3 phase, the wave form would be 120deg out of phase instead of 180deg like it is with 220 single phase.
Martin, I see you did something that I see from time to time on YT. You watched an English-language video, but responded in Spanish. Why? It seems odd, if you understood the video, you certainly know enough English to respond here in the language of the video. This is NOT a criticism or a troll-bite... I've seen this a few times on YT, and you happen to be the first person I've asked!
That motor does not sound right at all. 18:45 - Listen to the terrible chirping and barbling during startup... Sounds like the centrifugal switch is shot to absolute hell and cutting in and out intermittently at full speed. Again at 22:50 - Switch is audibly cutting back in at full speed. Can hear the rotor slipping more and more as the fuses + wiring get hot and voltage drop increases. Remember, fuses always blow for a reason. Bypassing fuses is extremely dangerous, and can easily kill the motor in minutes or possibly seconds if it's start winding has been permanently energized. Also, Federal Pacific Electric panels have a reputation for terrible reliability and being particularly nasty fire hazards. I'd advise you do do some research on the subject of Stab-Lok breakers, since you have two FPE panels. Replacing all of those FPE panels may be worth consideration from a fire safety standpoint.
Came here to comment on the Federal Pacific panel. I know it's an old post, but those are known fire-starters. Also, on your fuse panel, the puller on the left protects the four plug fuses on the lower part (don't seem to be in use) and the feed-through lugs if it has them. The puller on the right, the one you popped a fuse in, protects only the "range" lugs (the ones feeding your subpanel). Current for the range puller does *not* flow through the main puller. This is a typical old 100A fuse box, you normally have two sets of 50A fuses in the pullers, or 60A in one and 40A in the other.
I can't figure out what you are complaining about. Throw your check valve away and go buy a new one. What is the problem with 6 gage wire. Wire is cheap. Same for fuses. Once the compressor is set up, it will run for 30 years. Are you sure that is a single phase motor? In looking at your two fuses, it looks like it is wired to run 220 / single phase. There an cover plate on the ,motor. Take the cover plate off and look to see how the motor is configered. By looking inside the cover plate, you can verify singe or 3 phase. If it's 3, there will be 4 groups of wires. Your outlet that you showed has 4 holes in it. That's for 3 phase. In your breaker panel, you have two big long fuses. There should be 3 fuses. If your wires are hot, something is wrong. Best bet is to look inside the motor cover plate. Also, the motor can be configeered to run 220 or 440. The combination of the 8 wires will determine voltage. Did you ask the person you bought this from what electlrical source they were running. Any good electrician shjould be able to help you. Even if the motor is wired incorrectlly, it will still run for a few minutes...until it get hot and then it should shut itself down...hopefully. Good luck.
I hate fuses. In my garage I was so sick of all the shit with fuses I just spent 19000$ on 3 phase. Sooooo much better. And equipment is cheap. A 3 phases compressor your size I could get for 709$new.
1. Check the coil in the motor starter.
2. Check the centrifugal switch in the motor.
3. Meg the motor with a insulation tester, run & start windings.
4. Check your fuses for voltage drop, not just continuity.
I hope that helps.
Motor current draw will increase as pressure increases, due to the pump working harder against receiver pressure. That motor is running too hot, more than likely due to one or both of the caps being defective. Motor caps are one of the most common faults on compressors, and is a common reason for them being scrapped! I've bought many spares or repairs units that just needed caps to restore to full working condition.
T30's are one of the best ever piston recip compressors, I have a model 234 3hp single phase here in the UK, I'll probably wear out before it does!
Make sure to change the oil twice a year regardless of hours and it will go on forever.
You would be better off with a 5hp. Moter..you got a 7 hp. Unit.. the older IR units like yours are better units then what sold today ..at tractor supply stores..a 5hp moter will draw less amps. Use # 6 wire..from main fuse box to magnetic starter..as a rule of thumb..on a 5 hp. Unit..to be safe..u have some old boxs on the wall from. The 1960s or 70s..might want to upgrade if this is in your home shop...I'm using a 30 dbl pole on my 5hp. Unit and # 6 wire from main box to magnetic starter. All new from main power supply..to be safe. Ty for your video enjoyed it..
I agree with some of the other comments in that you do have a bad motor. The easiest and quickest way is to replace the motor (~$500) but you might be able to save money and spend some sweat to rebuild that motor with new bearing, caps and cap switches. It should only be drawing about 34FLA at start up and around 28A at kickout. On that second start where you wired past the 30A fuses I could hear the motor laboring and not hitting full RPM. Cheers.
That company FLIR is 10 min from my house it’s a big government building with high security. They do a lot of secret work for the government. I know for a fact because I know people who work there. Thank you for the video
***** There are two caps on the side of the motor, but I think they are already wired in series, iirc. I did check them and both checked fine on my LCR meter, proper capacitance and low ESR. I also just switched to slow blow fuses, frn instead of non. This may make all the difference. I also never did try the rpm meter I got...
I will buy it from you if you still have it
Moldtron@aol.com
the hissing sound when you turn it off is from the automatic water trained from your air system
I just bought an identical unit, debating take a trailer to pick it up OR disconnect the pump motor, fan guard etc, and just load the tank, pump, motor etc Separately into the tahoo with out the back seat, I have six foot to play with.
One very good way is to mount that style tank onto thicker than two bye fours, I used cut oak like three inches thick and five inches wide and put one inch rubber pads under the boards with screws.
I have two other eighty gallon tanks that I have done that with in the garage now, IMO you should have kept that unit, you never know when you might need some good air pressure.
at 18:45 when he starts it up you can see some sparks in the motor
To solve your problem simply move the air compressor over to the electrical panel where you have the 50 amp fuses and install 6 awg wiring from the bottom of the fuses to the starter. Right now they way it is wired the small wire is most likely causing a voltage drop causing the wiring to overheat.
The amp draw per the engineering data sheet is 40 amps so at a 1.5 service factor the max amp draw should not exceed 46 amps at 175 psi. If the amp draw is higher than this you should check / replace the motor bearings most likely.
+Steve Vess I had a similar problem with a small air compressor I put together. It would run fine on a 20 amp circuit at my house, but after I took it to the site, it wouldn't run on a questionable circuit. If I wheeled it somewhere else, even plugged into a 25 foot, 12 gauge extension cord, it would run fine. I find it odd that the motor in this video takes so long to come up to speed. I wonder if it's a combination of undervoltage AND week capacitors.
Too much voltage drop on the circuit (wire length).
+Steve Vess yep, absolutely
What’s the model number of the thermal camera you are using or where can i get one
Thanks
SIX YEARS LATER IT LOOKS TO ME AS IF EVERYTHING IS OK...EXCEPT FOR THE MOTOR FEEDER CIRCUIT. THE CONDUCTORS SHOULD BE SIZED AT 125% OF THE MOTOR FLA (ACTUALLY 2017 NEC TABLE 430-248) NOT THE BREAKER OR FUSE SIZE. OVERLOAD PROTECTION FOR THE CONDUCTORS IS PROVIDED BY THE MOTOR CONTROLLER OR AN INTERNALL THERMALLY PROTECTED MOTOR. THE FUSES OR BREAKER ONLY PROVIDE FAULT PROTECTION. THEY CAN BE SIZED AT UP TO 400% OF THE FLA FOR SOME CONFIGURATIONS. i WOULD TRY 60 TO 80 AMPS FOR A TYPICAL INVERSE TIME THERMAL-MAGNETIC BREAKER. BREAKERS OVER FUSES ANYDAY!
is that a heater magnet on the compressor ?
Sounds to me like the contacts in the on/off are dirty. 8:30
Hello DIY
Yes this is a very old post
Just curious if DIY guy is still checking in on his post
I have the exact same compressor
Exactly the same
I kept looking and trying to see where the wires went for the low oil cut off switch
Snap shot pics and all could not see
Could you help a guy out and take a picture of where they go
When I brought it home the oil switch broke and wires were pulled out
Did you fix it? A 5hp 1725rpm motor and a smaller motor pulley (make compressor run about 8-900rpm) and lower the cutout pressure to about 120psi. This will allow it work in an electrically challenged environment. 7.5hp is for continuous use at 175psi, a little large for a home garage.
Yeah you got a real deal...or you should be charged with theft, lol.
Is this for sale on Letgo?
Is the motor a 3 phase or single phase
Hi, interesting issue. I feel 99% confident the problem lies in the motor itself. I noticed a couple of times the motor had more of a whyne and it seamed it was not quite up to full speed. On a single phase motor that is a capacitor start and capacitor run there is a centrifugal switch in the motor behind the bell housing on the opposite end of the shaft. These can stick in the closed position leaving the run caps in sequence, however, i noticed the motor had that same whyne for a brief second during the couple of times it didn't blow the fuses. It could be a weak run cap. Let me know if you need more help. Scott
That compressor needs a 60 amp disconnect -it draws near 50 amps at startup with inrush current and then settles down to 32 amps running. There is probably nothing wrong with it other than your feed is to small. You will have a fire eventually running this improper circuit. 60 amp disconnect fed by 50 amp breakers and number 6 awg wire. Pull new wire and replace the disconnect and you are golden. Disconnects come 30 or 60-there is no 45. you will ruin that motor doing what you are doing.
I have the exact same compressor and i am an industrial electrician. If your wire is undersized you will have a fire and will wreck that motor. If after you get the circuit up to code and the motor is faulty it is more than likely the start or run capacitors in the top bell of the motor-a cheap easy fix for any motor shop- 30, and 60 dollars respectively. Also the centrifugal switch could need cleaned or replaced-cheap. If the motor is bad and i dont believe from watching your video that it is, then order one from Baldor/ Reliance-400 dollars if you go to a factory shop. ( 800 plus retail ). get your circuit right and it should work. The unloader being bad is more than likely why the folks scrapped the compressor-but if it is a motor you can fix it too. Read the manual from IR online it will tell you what i say is true.
gooooood
i know this is an old video but please tell me you kept the compressor. blown fuse and run capacitors.
Yes still have it, no issues with it yet!
@@jasondoesdiy7143 help a guy out take a picture of oil cut off wires and where they go
How far away is your breaker panel? #8 wire is all you need ,it's rated for 50 A that motor draws 40, you can find used, fused 60A disconnect switches that will take 50A fuses. Go ask an electrician if he can hook you up with one.Be nice, buy him a beer.
Your starter coil is weak or , it can be replaced, I can hear it buzzing, change your two pole breaker to a 50A two pole.
Fuses should be slow blow types discos are rated 30 , 60 and 100 usual sizes. Reply and ask me I am electrician sitting at home sheltering in place and BORED
crap this thread is older than dirrt
wow how do have a 7.5 hp motor running on 240v single faze ??? i love the ingersol rand t30 pumps my dad had one in the 70s running with a 10hp 3 phaze and paid over £2500 back then and its probberly still working somewere!
240V 'single phase' in the US is not 240V to neutral/gnd it's 120 to 120, so basically 2 of 3 legs of 3 phase, but it's still called single phase.
Ahh I see I'm currently running a 2.2kw 3hp 240v (UK) with a cleark 14cfm pump plumbed to a 150litre tank and is working well for my needs but would love a t30 and 3phase electric supply
GameTechUS Not 2 legs of 3 phase it is 1 phase split. Look up split phase power and you will see that only one leg of a three phase system is used. If it were 2 legs of 3 phase, the wave form would be 120deg out of phase instead of 180deg like it is with 220 single phase.
Dime cuánto vende el compresor
change all 3 capisitor
your suppost to hace 3 on your motor box
So, did you keep it?
+Nicholas Smerk Yeah haven't put much effort in to it since this vid, still need to find some various parts for it, but it get's used a lot now.
@@jasondoesdiy7143 hey same compressor except t-10 can it be wired like a traditional braker if so what amp should I get.
Yo te compro el compresor cómo está cuánto vale Price please for tho air compreesor
¿cual es la medida de la polea del compresor?
Martin, I see you did something that I see from time to time on YT. You watched an English-language video, but responded in Spanish. Why? It seems odd, if you understood the video, you certainly know enough English to respond here in the language of the video. This is NOT a criticism or a troll-bite... I've seen this a few times on YT, and you happen to be the first person I've asked!
That starter is shot
That motor does not sound right at all.
18:45 - Listen to the terrible chirping and barbling during startup... Sounds like the centrifugal switch is shot to absolute hell and cutting in and out intermittently at full speed.
Again at 22:50 - Switch is audibly cutting back in at full speed.
Can hear the rotor slipping more and more as the fuses + wiring get hot and voltage drop increases.
Remember, fuses always blow for a reason. Bypassing fuses is extremely dangerous, and can easily kill the motor in minutes or possibly seconds if it's start winding has been permanently energized.
Also, Federal Pacific Electric panels have a reputation for terrible reliability and being particularly nasty fire hazards. I'd advise you do do some research on the subject of Stab-Lok breakers, since you have two FPE panels. Replacing all of those FPE panels may be worth consideration from a fire safety standpoint.
Came here to comment on the Federal Pacific panel. I know it's an old post, but those are known fire-starters. Also, on your fuse panel, the puller on the left protects the four plug fuses on the lower part (don't seem to be in use) and the feed-through lugs if it has them. The puller on the right, the one you popped a fuse in, protects only the "range" lugs (the ones feeding your subpanel). Current for the range puller does *not* flow through the main puller. This is a typical old 100A fuse box, you normally have two sets of 50A fuses in the pullers, or 60A in one and 40A in the other.
I can't figure out what you are complaining about. Throw your check valve away and go buy a new one. What is the problem with 6 gage wire. Wire is cheap. Same for fuses. Once the compressor is set up, it will run for 30 years.
Are you sure that is a single phase motor? In looking at your two fuses, it looks like it is wired to run 220 / single phase. There an cover plate on the ,motor. Take the cover plate off and look to see how the motor is configered. By looking inside the cover plate, you can verify singe or 3 phase. If it's 3, there will be 4 groups of wires.
Your outlet that you showed has 4 holes in it. That's for 3 phase. In your breaker panel, you have two big long fuses. There should be 3 fuses.
If your wires are hot, something is wrong.
Best bet is to look inside the motor cover plate. Also, the motor can be configeered to run 220 or 440. The combination of the 8 wires will determine voltage.
Did you ask the person you bought this from what electlrical source they were running. Any good electrician shjould be able to help you.
Even if the motor is wired incorrectlly, it will still run for a few minutes...until it get hot and then it should shut itself down...hopefully. Good luck.
I hate fuses. In my garage I was so sick of all the shit with fuses I just spent 19000$ on 3 phase. Sooooo much better. And equipment is cheap. A 3 phases compressor your size I could get for 709$new.