How To Apply An XY Offset To Your 3d Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
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In today's video we take a look at how to apply an XY Offset to your 3d printer. There are a few reasons this may be needed with the most common being that you have upgraded/modded your 3d printer in some way shifting the location of your nozzle. I will take you through the methods I have used to correct this so that you can use you full build volume.
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This video helped me a lot in understanding where I was going wrong with my offsets in klipper! Thanks much
hey Daniel thanks so much i was literally just going on youtube to look up easy ways to change my offsets. Before I could even search i saw your video in my feed what great luck and as usual great video. the livestream with Nero3d was also great
You could also move the print head to where you want it (using the interface), and pull the values from absolute location in x and y after homing. And then apply those as offsets... That seems easier than using a caliper or ruler.
That is completely valid. For the positive offsets it wouldn’t work since the homing would be into the bed and it would require using something like a caliper/ruler. For negative offsets though absolutely that is a great option 👍
how do you do that
@@ArrowTech374 do what
@@weld4200 i actually all ready fixed it i just needed a newer firmware so i could change the offset
Printing Cutlery drawer inserts for the missus, and Googled this exact problem... my "knives insert" had to be printed diagonally, and it's JUST barely on the build plate at 0,0, but still a good 30+ mm on the back left (after switching from Cura to Orca)... I forgot I added custom start g-code to Cura when I upgraded to the MicroSwiss. Great video, thanks!
My preferred "measure offset" method is:
Disable Stepper motors
Home just the axis to measure (X or Y)
Use the screen to move the axis:
First, raise the Z by 1mm
Move the axis to measure by small increments... until the nozzle is just over the build plate.
Then just read the axis value on the screen... no rulers, no calipers, easy-peasy.
Hey Daniel! I was curious if it's very difficult to make an adjustment regarding the Y travel on a Cr10s5? I recently did a linear rail mod for the carriage that slings the bed around, but I built the aluminum brackets that attach the bed to the MGN15 carriage block a tad long. Basically there are 2 MGN15 linear rails, and 2 MGN15 carriage blocks per rail. I spaced the blocks apart 1/4" further than I should have. Now when it does its 25pt auto level, and the bed moves to do the last row of test points, it will smack the front carriage blocks into the front extrusion. The whole thing was a pain in the ass, just because it's a big printer, so I would gladly give up 6mm or 8mm of Y travel instead of pulling it all back apart to rebuild the brackets. To be honest, it works fine.. It runs through the whole auto home and ABL process, and prints great. But I feel like at some point, something will fail. The 500mm bed has a 500mm silicone Keenovo ac bed heater, a 500mm mirror, and a 500mm sheet of PEI stuck to the mirror. It's pretty heavy.. But for the weight it actually prints really clean.. But that SLAM during the bed level routine makes me worry for my stepper motor! I would imagine the best way would be to update the TH3D firmware (I have been setting up my Creality printers with TH3D firmware through Visual Studio Code) and just adjust the bed size to like 500mmX490mm? I guess what I'm asking, is if that would be the correct setting, to get keep my bed carriage from making contact? Otherwise, could I adjust the bed size in the machine settings in Cura, and sort of achieve the same thing? I will probably eventually machine some new brackets, and fix the original problem. But hoping for a temporary fix, be it in the slicer or in firmware. Sorry for the annoyingly long question. Any info is appreciated! Thank you!
The vast majority of Creality printers when fitted with a BL Touch and using stock firmware are probed with an incorrect XY Offset between the probe and the nozzle which results in incorrect probing, the firmware positions the nozzle in the position the probe should be in.
I changed my Firmware to Insanity Automation on all my Creality machines which corrects this issue but some people will not have upgraded their firmware and be blighted by an incorrect mesh from their BL Touch or chosen ABL due to this error.
A tutorial on correcting this in the firmware would be of great use to these viewers if you would be so good as to make this tutorial.
Literally the issue I am facing right now ..
@@GeorgeGoosen same here. Did you ever figure it out?
@@richardmartinez5040 theres an probe offset number you set in the menu.
I have some fairly bulky (10m on the x, 10m on the y and maybe 3m on the z) clips that hold my G10 and my glass bed down... I don't mind losing the bed space, but my problem is that if I auto-home before applying offsets my nozzle hits directly on the clips and it really, really stresses the printer to the point that I'm scared I'm going to break it. Yes, I could come up with other clip solutions, but... this works really well and I like it and don't want to change it.... so if I apply the offsets in Cura, will it still autohome and hit the clip again? I think I can determine the answer by looking at the gcode... I mean, that's all the slicer really does is produce instructions, including the offsets and build plate dimensions in the form of gcode.... any thoughts?
Thank you, that G92 command was exactly what I was looking for!
dude you are the best .im new to klipper .you have helped me alot.thank you
Thanks for the G92 code method. For people who just wants to know how to offset your nozzle after upgrading your hotend:
1) Auto-Home all axis
2) Use calipers or ruler to measure offset of nozzle from corner of bed
3) Add custom G92 offset to start code after G28 homing code
@ModBot, I have an issue where my first layer calibration (the start) and initial print “ swipe” are now off the front of the plate . I can edit my start Gcode to adjust the swipe but don’t know what to do about Prusa’s first layer calibration on my Mini and it’s kind of annoying since I have probably 100 sliced files on my Pi ready to print. Is there a solution that can be written too NVRAM? Maybe Mm218? I’d like to be able to adjust this permanently. bTW I just installed a new Reco Micro, it has issues before but not this bad.
hello, great video, I'm a complete 3d noob. I'm having issues with my prints not being perfectly centered on the build plate. it all started when installed a sprite pro on my ender 3 neo. I can correct the off center in physical world by moving the model in the slicer. that works for small builds but no so much for big builds because the model is off the edge in the slicer build plate once corrected. I'm trying to do some bigger builds I've got my printer quality dialed in really good. I've tried all I know, can you please help? very frustrated . thank you
Great stuff. Thank you. I has question that I can't seem to find an answer for. I have an Ender 3 v2. I just installed the creality sprite direct drive and moved my BL touch over to the new extruder. The problem that I'm running into is, because the bed level sensor now sits more foreword than it was before. So when my printer goes and does its auto leveling calibration, the cl touch is positioned off the build plate. I understand that using an offset would help, however, it would make my building surface much smaller for no reason. Is there a solution to set an offset for only during the auto leveling my printer does before each print? Thanks.
iI am just going through this as my probe is on the other side to where it always used to be. I have put tape on the bed and measured for the centre point. I then placed my nozzle on that point and marked the probe which if i have done it right should be X55 as on the right side and Y -50 from the centre Is this correct or have i missed something as i want it to home to the centre of the bed.
Trying to change the the center or offset on Cura makes your bed smaller and the purge line is still not on the bed. Also you can't move the limit switch. I had to prace a block on the Micro Swiss Hotend bracket.
Hiya, should X Width and Y Depth values (in your example: 232/235) from Cura be copied into Marlin and firmware, re-compiled/re-uploaded to the printer or I should keep default ones in Marlin and just amend Cura ones?
Thanks
What are the "Home offset" settings in the LCD of my old Ender 3 for ? I though if starting point of your nozzle is off the bed, you could measure how far and then somehow using the "Home offset" feature correct for this ? But I've tried MOVING the nozzle to the desired position with the Ender command but cannot seem to make the Ender react to this as a starting position or save the location or put it in anywhere without using CURA or diddling with the Gcode as per the video. And eveything I punch "Save" in Ender all I get is a loud BEEP, but when I Autohome, it always goes back to the position off the bed.
And then there’s the XVico Pioneer 3D printer which has a micro SD slot and that’s it! The factory defaults for this pod have the hot end homing 3mm north of the y and 3mm east of the X. When I do auto leveling, it refuses to go to 3mm south of the back of the bed, instead it homes almost 2 inches south of the back edge. Neat, huh! Since I can’t put Marlin on it, what would you suggest?
I have a Creality CR-10 Pro V2. I recently changed the hotend and now when the auto mesh starts. It starts in the center of the build plate. It is seeing the buildplate as shifted right from there. I have not sure what happened or how to fix it? Any help is appreciated
When I go to print the printer starts in the home position not in the center of the build plate what can I do about it
I have half of bed miss aligned in X and Y direcions, just shifted and disabling me from printing larger parts.
I think i need a video on how to set home offset when my ezabl probe homes in the center of the bed
What about X/Y Scaling? My printer undersizes prints by about 0.24%. Not a problem most of the time. But for parts that need to be dimensionally accurate, I have to remember to apply a 100.24% scaling factor in the slicer. Is this something I can set up once in the slicer or firmware and then not have to worry about again? BTW, I do not have access to microstepping from the printers menu.
Dial estep
How about an ender 5 that the homing is in the right rear side?
Really nice explanation, covering all scenario. Thank you Daniel for this.
3:06 lol that problem have a lot of Kingroon KP3S printer so thx for this video
it's just a pity that you didn't show the settings of Kingroon in the cura for the non english spekaer... my printer does exactly the same as yours in the video.
For the KP3S apply a G92 after the G28. I tried changing the offsets in Cura using the text boxes and although it worked, it applied it after the purge line. I would start with x-5 y-2. That is what I wan with and you can always slightly adjust if needed.
@@ModBotArmy gracias
I have tried every combination, I cannot get this to work with my BL touch start code...
Yeah I applied that to gcode and it does not do that. It just scoots over a bit and starts printing as if that is the edge of the bed
Could you share your start and end G-Code please?
I have the ender3pro with the new microswiss NG and crtouch. Using cura what would that setting be
Ng doesn’t require the x/y offset just need to take a couple mm off the x and y. For me it was 3mm x and 8mm y that needed to be subtracted from max build volume.
@@ModBotArmy wait I dont understand it dont require the x/y but you said take a couple of mm off X/Y (I'm new still learning) I dont have the issue with the nozzle touching the plate with the crtouch
So the NG shift the nozzle (approximately) 3mm to the right and 8mm toward the back. (This is at least the case on my Ender 3 v2). Because of that you just need to change the max build volume in the slicer. In my case I changed the X Axis from 235 to 232 and Y Axis from 235 to 227.
Everytime I try to set my Z I get error to far. Anybody know how to fix this?
Getting the same issue🥲
I currently have an ender 3 with a skr mini v2 board and the touch screen and I absolutely hate it!! I want to put a stock ender v2 board/screen on it but I think that’s just a waste of money. It also has a “chpower” extruder that’s direct drive and pushes the nozzle to far out so it won’t hit the bed plate. Can’t adjust home offsets either lol I’m about to just throw it in the trash
@@CartaIV I returned mine and now using a Ender 5 plus.
@@smallnuts2 I bought mine off Facebook lol I’ll fix it I’m sure, I did end up getting an s1 pro though and it’s awesome
What hotend offset should i do?
Revonext QT5 HiFi Stereo Wired Earbuds Noise Isolating
took 5:49 to tell its in machine extruder setting huhhhh
6:58 is the solution for CURA users.
the only problem with all of these is that you have to do them all over again for your next print. you want to print something knew well, you have to do it again. i need to be able to fix this problem but also not have to do it a gazillion times
Thanks!, works very well G92 whit prusaslicer