So many videos out there trying to explain everything in the shortest time possible which then misses the most important basics! It really is nice to find someone who knows how to get his points across. Working my way through your video now and had to comment, just purely due to you excellent explanations! Thank you and keep going!
Thanks, Excellent video. If anyone is doing this on an Ender-5, its (110 - (Screen Readout)) = (Home Postion) + 220 = Manual Home Position ... This video is for printers that have endstops at the front left (0,0) whereas the Ender 5's endstops are at the back right (220,220). You are basically adding or removing a margin to endstops to have the nozzle centered at (110,110). I have the Hero Me Duct with stock hotend so my firmware settings are: #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 223 #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 209 I hope this helps someone because it took me a little bit to figure out.
You legend! thanks!!! 7 years I've had my tronXY printer and always had issues with it printing off centre, finally looked into sorting it and came across this!
Thanks Daniel. Yet another fine tutorial of yours that is clear and easy to follow, and more importantly, successful! However there was 1 strange thing that happened at the point where in Pronterface you put in the code "G0 X110 Y110 Z2" and hit "send". For some reason the nozzle didn't move to the centred position. Rather than panic I decided to click home and try the "G0 X110 Y110 Z2" command again and this time it centred perfectly. I repeated this numerous times to make sure that it centred again which it did each time. Just thought I would let this be known in case anyone else also experiences this and starts to worry that they have done something wrong.
Das ist eine hervorragede Ergänzung zum Vodeo "Marlin Firmware 1.1.X - Probe Offset and Probe Bed Position Settings Explained". Funktioniert perfekt. Ganz toll - danke!
This all makes full sense. I wondered why some large test prints were not centered as my slicer displayed them. Now I understand and will fix that too. Homing at bed center seems pretty logical to me. Great work, really. Clear and very instructive !
Wow! I really wish I had seen this earlier. The other video's had me running down rabbit holes and I gave serious thought to going back to my original ANET A8 hot end and carriage from the E3DV6 that I had purchased. I searched Reddit and the assistance was not terribly helpful. You were right on the money and you were HELPFUL!
This tutorial finally pushed me in the right direction. My centering was waaaaaay out of whack so far. Up until this point this was never an issue because my prints were usually small enough for this no to be an issue. But with a bigger print waiting that will barely fit the print bed with 4mm to spare on either side, this needed sorting. I have an AM8 here which is running Marlin 2.0.5. The Y axis was sorted pretty quickly, but try as I might, the X axis never did what I wanted. It was always off about 30 mm to the left, no matter what I did. In the end I did not use the manual positioning option in config.h but the min_pos_x option. I eventually adjusted the positioning by trial and error and finally got the result I wanted and the printer is now centered properly. Big thanks from the Ruhr! :-D
@@Crosslink3D Hey man! J-Head - E3D V6 Clone Black Diamond Bowden www.thingiverse.com/thing:3154420 (but I do not recommend it!) Bowden Extruder Mount www.thingiverse.com/thing:2146021 Anet A8 X-axis R1 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2227422 I am planning to switch to those two: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2193695 www.thingiverse.com/thing:3583021 (The X-axis holder, because my original distance between the two X rods was 46mm and in most X carriages the distance is 45mm, so I thought to go for 45mm straight away since all in the future will be 45mm anyways...) Cheers!
Thank you for this. I want to look at getting a BL Touch for my CR10S5 and I have to learn more about this coding and set up. I’ll be going through your videos with anticipation 😊
Thank you for a clear and concise solution not found anywhere else. Keep up the videos. They are extremely helpful foe a novice like myself. I’m getting into 3D printing for my surgical practice. From Orlando.
Superb guide, really helped me dial in my DIY, even works for Marlin 2.0.6...this approach was even adaptable to calculate and pinpoint my BLTOUCH. Cheers from Germany.
Dude I thought my printer was broken, I updated firmware and made changes for offsets with BLT, my prints have never been centered since.. I just dealt with it the best I could.. I went as far as trying a SKR DIP board, SKR mini, and now on the Creality 1.1.5, nothing worked. Watched your vid, and I am back to printing dead center!! can't thank you enough.
Thank you so much for existing. I've been trying to solve this for more than a week and didn't manage to do it. Them your video showed up in my youtube feed and made my day. YOU ARE THE BOSS.
Hi. I’m glad you made this clip as I’m deaf and visual is better rather read. I converted mine Geetech Prusa I3 B Pro from wood to AM8 metal frame. Now it is off centre so this will help me. I don’t think my GT2567 board is flashable but I will try. 👍
Dear Daniel beautiful guides ... I'm following them all ... and I'm finding myself very well .. but I wanted to share with you my experience on the bed center ... followed the whole guide .. I did all measures..but the the only way to make everything work was to write the results in the section "x_min_pos" ..and also the test with repetier host was perfect center..I hope that changes on Anet A8 ... never end ... good work and thanks Gianluca
Hi Daniel, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, this finally solved my centering issue! You are very clear on explanations and makes things much easier for us. Greetings from Brazil!!
Subscribed M500 Perfect, been struggling all day to centre my prints, you solved it for me. Although I didn't configure the firmware then flash, I used Prontoprint's console and entered the correct numbers following your calculations and now my prints are mm centred :D Was annoying having to grab the wipe line with tweezers as it was about 5mm over the edge. Not any more, thank you :) Now to sort my E steps, off you watch another video of yours :D Many thanks from Cornwall, England :)
Daniel thanks for this video tutorial. I changed the extruder for the E3D V6 and didn't have the exact center on the hotbed. I did everything as in your manual and it's okay now. All your videos are useful to me. Also flash to MARLIN firmware according to your instructions 100%. I have two ANET A8 printers and I am happy with them. Thanks again. You are doing useful work. Sorry for my English.
The Plasanator, thanks for your comment. Always appreciate your contributions. If you have ideas or suggestions on what I can improve or what videos you like to see, please tell me here in the comment section. Daniel.
Thank you so much for making these videos, In Cura it shows the centre where the printer should be but in Pronerface its to the home position.How do I get them both in the centre of the bed. I have watched many many videos used a complete roll and still nothing. Please Please help.... Thank you.. Stay Safe. Bill M8-( Scotland
I just added an auto bed leveler to my CR10 S5 and flashed the latest Marlin software to my printer. The auto leveling works fine, but now my nozzle auto homes at the end of the print and squashes my prints. I am using Prusa and here is my end Gcode - start code //{if max_layer_z
The drawing of an "X" on the bed surface from corner to corner is relative to the limitation of your actual printable area and would only work if the homed nozzle is perfectly at 0,0, or less, and can reach the opposite corner. If your nozzle can not reach both corners of the physical bed this will not work using the physical corners to draw your "X". You want to center your printable area, not your physical bed. Your bed "corner" would be where the nozzle is above the bed. Example: my nozzle can not travel off the bed on the X axis, the farthest it will go to the left leaves 3mm of bed left of the nozzle. I would need to draw a line on the left of the bed 3mm from the edge of the physical bed. My Y axis is -5mm off the bed, so I would use the physical front of my bed and the line 3mm from the left edge as front-left corner, and In the configuration file I would set my Y position to "Y_MIN_POS -5" . You would also need to check the opposite corner to see where the actual limit of where your nozzle can go, then mark your printable bed area onto the tape, then you draw your X to those points. In my case, my nozzle can reach the back-right corner on both the X and the Y of the physical bed. So, I would draw my "X" from the back right corner of the actual bed, to the front left "corner" where I drew 3mm right of the physical bed. If my bed is actually 300mm x 300mm my "X" will be 297mm x 300mm in this example. There is 3mm of physical bed on the left which the nozzle can not get to, so that is where my "X" should be cornered.
thats a tronxy 802. that is what just got. configuring everything now. z axis was bent, cant connect to pc, and its printing in the corner of the bed. WORK IN PROGRESS.
Hi...Thanks for the video....I followed along and was able to get the center perfect.....However, as a result of adding my values (X=4 Y=-5) into the MANUAL_X_HOME_POS etc, the readout on the LCD reflects that when homed.....Is there a way to add those values in Marlin and have the home X & Y display X=0, Y=0 etc....My slicer scripts for end of the print tell the machine to go to X=0 however its now actually X=4 (I know I can change it in the scripts to go to X=4), but I dont want to have to adjust to that. Thanks for your help.
@@Crosslink3D Yes, I m making a new cheap prusa and bought a motherboard ramps 1,4 you Know, but after that I find some not good quality things "Mosfet" heating, finishing, So you can make a review for motherboards Cheapest and Better lets say, from 10$ to 60 70$ lets say. I looked Rumba 100$ to much, and al things in my country are 2 with 4 times expensive, its a suggestion only take it if you like. THX
@@Crosslink3D Yes, I m making a new cheap prusa and bought a motherboard ramps 1,4 you Know, but after that I find some not good quality things "Mosfet" heating, finishing, So you can make a review for motherboards Cheapest and Better lets say, from 10$ to 60 70$ lets say. I looked Rumba 100$ to much, and al things in my country are 2 with 4 times expensive, its a suggestion only take it if you like. THX
@@Crosslink3D cannot be better!!! Your tuturials are fantastic... it´s impossibel to not understand, keep the good Job!!! ( to be perfect in my case is to acomplish to upload the Marlin 2.0... with time I arrive there ;) )
Hi, I did what you said and it worked, but... now when a print finishes or if I move the Y axis to 235, it grinds the belt. The home coordinates also show the values I entered into the firmware. I read another comment that said they had similar problems. I would greatly appreciate any help for this. I'm using Marlin 2.0.7.2.
Thank you for your informative video. While it work and 110,110 is in the middle of the bed, my prints run off the edge. Basically with sensor-less homing, marlin doesn't know where the corner of the bed is (0,0) or at least it seems that way. Any suggestions on that? Thx
I was wondering if this can be done through Gcode commands as it is a royal pain to flash firmware to my Artillery Sidewinder X1. I have to tip the printer on its side, remove 6 screws on the bottom plate, carefully unplug the case fan, carefully pull the cable from the TFT board. Carefully set it upright so I don't pinch any cables and plug in the USB to flash.
The best would be to have a printer menu for that. Wondering why this was never implemented. Gcodes, I am not aware of that this can be done. Is the USB port of the sidewinder not reachable in any other way. Major design flaw then
Just getting into Marlin 2.0 on my A8 today, thank you for the videos btw! They've been super helpful in picking up configuration knowledge. I have two questions: 1. Is it normal for the X and Y axis to say the coordinates on the LCD (example: X: -28 Y: -3)? If so, is it possible to set the origin to where those coordinates show as X: 0 Y: 0 on the display? 2. How can I setup mesh bed leveling on an A8 on Marlin 2.0? I saw one of your videos for an older version of Marlin, and I can't find a straight-foward way to do this. Thank you for your videos! Looking forward to learning more following your channel!
@@Crosslink3D Thank you, I'm really looking forward to that! I actually just figured out mesh bed leveling tonight, mostly thanks to things I've picked up from your videos. Is it possible for uploading on Arduino without verifying to cause the LCD text to glitch? Or could that be an SD card/USB error? Sorry to ask so many questions! My stock LCD is is displaying strange glitched text after homing, and other operations since a questionable writing process on Arduino earlier. I'm trying to rule out possibilities, as I'm new to Marlin.
Daniel/All: I'm relatively new to this, and I'm wondering if this same procedure/commands are used in Marlin 2.1.2? I just replaced my Ender 3 Pro main board and LCD with the SKR 1.4 Turbo and the TFT35 E3 V3 as per your recommendations. Having some issues trying to compile the firmware correctly as I added a smart filament sensor and the new BTT CR Touch sensor, but I think I can figure it out. Thanks for all your help!
I don't seem to have these lines of code in my configuration.h file. I am running TH3D firmware on a Creality 1.1.5 board with BL touch. Any suggestions?
I know this is an older video... But would this fix the problem I have (installed a Sprite Pro head on my original Ender 3) and the nozzle homes about 13mm off the front of the bed. I've set the home offsets in through the printer menu but it still homes off the bed. When I try to do bed mesh leveling the first five point measure off the bed.
I just wondered why I need to print out the cross hair pattern? I would think I could just plug in on my printer G0 X150 Y150 after zeroing out the values in the firmware; move the print head to the center and adjust the values. Only skipping the initial X/Y cross hair printing step. Is there a particular reason this will not work?
Hi. I replaced firmware and now HOME does not exist. It goes up as he can reach and moves to the right until hitting the structure, I think step motors values are wrong as long as everything. What can I do? I have an Ender 3 clon printer, Sunhokey and installed a firmware as Ender 3. Thanks.
Thanks--So I set up everything, I have an SKR 1.4 turbo in a tarantula pro, for some reason after auto homing, z goes to upper right corner of bed to home and stays there--I would like it to home in center like everyone elses printer, I havent changed any settings/definitions in Marlin, z safe homing is enabled and x y (/2) bed size is defined--any suggestions?
Man where was this 11 months ago lmao I got my first 3d printer the anet a8 last year beggining of October and and while trying to upgrade I accidently ruined the nozzle threads and the hotend threads and had to use the nozzle that came with the e3d I had gotten ahead of time but since the hotend was damaged too it was oozing extra plastic from the top of the nozzle lol but for some reason was printing amazing so I panicked printed the e3d carriage I wanted but after the I couldnt print anything bigger than 40×40 lmao but man great vid very informative sorry for rambling. Oh and probably wont get to this cause it's so long but why did you put the values on a different line I figured this out myself by searching the marlin code(first time at that point ever working with code) till I found the values in it that match the LCD screens homed values and changed them on the same line and has been working great but was wondering why you put it on another line sorry rambling again I'm done now lol.
Great video: I have one question: I am not sure why you need to print the calibration pattern. I would think all you need to do is home, then move X, Y to center. On my printer it is 150 x150mm. Then move printhead to the actual center where I drew the X with a pencil. So it looks like I really don't need to print the test pattern. I could then print a test patter afterwards to see if it is printing in the center. All the print patter would tell me is I am printing off center. And Moving printer to X150, Y150 seems to do the same thing. Am I missing something?
Daniel since I install Marlin 1.1 bug fix at the middle of a print the printer gives me "Thermal Runaway" error, can you help me? I´m using a Mosfet in the extruder...
The menus and where stuff is located is a bit different for the TH3D Unified Firmware... where do I enter my offset values in this version, which menu tab?
Can this be done 1:! with Marlin2.0? And why using the Manual_X/Y_Home not the X/Y_MIN_POS? Also couldn't the option BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 be used for that? (I mean the description for this option is "The center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)"
I was able to center the bed, but when printin in cure it is like is not taking that value because it keeps moving more than expected in the edges, so weird
I have been following your steps to fix the center of my gantry pro with a 310 310 410 print area and i totally ruined it flashing the firmware. What profile do i need to use for my printer? Im having a meltdown here
Im trying to do this in Marlin 2.0 and I only see 5 tabs where you have a lot more. Im doing a search for mem pos and it doesn't exist. Is setting this up different in 2.0? And if so, whats the bit of code i need to adjust for the difference?
This did not work for me. Mine still prints about 4mm to the right. i basically have a tevo tornado with bltouch so it is almost same setup as you just bigger. not sure what im doing wrong but i have tried everything so far and nothing has made a difference. If i do manage to get it centered, it will then hit the x end stop but motor keeps going. What am i missing here?
That looks a little convoluted. If I programmed this you would be able to simply travel from the home point with the control buttons to the edges of your bed and have the x-y readout on the display, then save the settings like you do when bed levelling and Marlin would know how big the bed was from the home point which is the point of reference....you could manually enter the x and y values displayed on the screen and then Bob's your uncle. Does that not make sense? Am I missing something?
Hey Daniel, Just installed the DDX from bondtech, and have tried to follow this video (On stock it worked great) However, each time i do the MANUAL_X_HOME_POS it still doesn't center the bed. I have tried this like 20 times now, even used the G0 X115 Y115 Z2 to get it to align, but it doesn't work, what am i doing wrong?
Hey Daniel... i was wondering if you could help me out with an issue i ran into.. the problem is i flashed my standard Anet A8 with marlin 1.1.8 auto level (cause i added a sensor onto it) everything seems to be working except the most important option... when i select print from SD and the Gcode to print, it heats up nto its temps, reaches its temperatures on the hotend and the bed, but will not start the print, its just sits there... is there anything i need to change in the marlin config file to get it to print?
i have built an AM8 style printer and my bed is bigger 250 x 250 im having problems that if i tell the printer move 250 in either x or y position it goes most of the way but its about 50mm off in each direction my settins are as follows #define X_BED_SIZE 250 #define Y_BED_SIZE 250 #define X_MIN_POS -102 #define Y_MIN_POS -3 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE #define Z_MAX_POS 270 the values for x and y POS are set based on the printer being homed then measuring the distances of X and y from position X 0.0 and y 0.0 so when i tell pronterface to goto one of these positions it goes to the front of the bed corner which is perfect. i was told this is how to do it so that the printer knowss where the bed is but x and y are around 50mm short so i dont understand why thank you in advance
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So many videos out there trying to explain everything in the shortest time possible which then misses the most important basics! It really is nice to find someone who knows how to get his points across. Working my way through your video now and had to comment, just purely due to you excellent explanations! Thank you and keep going!
Thanks, always love to help!
You just saved me from going completly mental, it is 3:00 in the morning and I have tried sooooo many things. Thank you so so much 🙏🙏🙏
Same story. 2.33AM. Just saved me.
Another one here, saved by the bell. Thank you
Thanks, Excellent video. If anyone is doing this on an Ender-5, its (110 - (Screen Readout)) = (Home Postion) + 220 = Manual Home Position ...
This video is for printers that have endstops at the front left (0,0) whereas the Ender 5's endstops are at the back right (220,220). You are basically adding or removing a margin to endstops to have the nozzle centered at (110,110). I have the Hero Me Duct with stock hotend so my firmware settings are:
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 223
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 209
I hope this helps someone because it took me a little bit to figure out.
You saved me man!!! I was confused because my bed does not move to the center, just a little hahaha.
I don't comment much. However, I wanted to show my gratitude for the great explanation. Thank you for the help.
You legend! thanks!!! 7 years I've had my tronXY printer and always had issues with it printing off centre, finally looked into sorting it and came across this!
This has been an issue for me for too long now, and this was the clearest and most concise solution I've come across. Thank you.
Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.
Thanks Daniel. Yet another fine tutorial of yours that is clear and easy to follow, and more importantly, successful! However there was 1 strange thing that happened at the point where in Pronterface you put in the code "G0 X110 Y110 Z2" and hit "send". For some reason the nozzle didn't move to the centred position. Rather than panic I decided to click home and try the "G0 X110 Y110 Z2" command again and this time it centred perfectly. I repeated this numerous times to make sure that it centred again which it did each time. Just thought I would let this be known in case anyone else also experiences this and starts to worry that they have done something wrong.
Das ist eine hervorragede Ergänzung zum Vodeo "Marlin Firmware 1.1.X - Probe Offset and Probe Bed Position Settings Explained". Funktioniert perfekt. Ganz toll - danke!
Muchísimas gracias! Llevaba varios meses con problemas con mi impresora, he visto miles de videos sin solución. Gracias!!!!!!!!!!!
@Crosslink Thank you so much, i center my bed with your video when all the people i know in the 3d printing area tells me to move my endstop sensor :)
This all makes full sense.
I wondered why some large test prints were not centered as my slicer displayed them. Now I understand and will fix that too.
Homing at bed center seems pretty logical to me.
Great work, really. Clear and very instructive !
Wow! I really wish I had seen this earlier. The other video's had me running down rabbit holes and I gave serious thought to going back to my original ANET A8 hot end and carriage from the E3DV6 that I had purchased. I searched Reddit and the assistance was not terribly helpful. You were right on the money and you were HELPFUL!
This tutorial finally pushed me in the right direction.
My centering was waaaaaay out of whack so far. Up until this point this was never an issue because my prints were usually small enough for this no to be an issue.
But with a bigger print waiting that will barely fit the print bed with 4mm to spare on either side, this needed sorting.
I have an AM8 here which is running Marlin 2.0.5. The Y axis was sorted pretty quickly, but try as I might, the X axis never did what I wanted. It was always off about 30 mm to the left, no matter what I did. In the end I did not use the manual positioning option in config.h but the min_pos_x option. I eventually adjusted the positioning by trial and error and finally got the result I wanted and the printer is now centered properly.
Big thanks from the Ruhr! :-D
I just upgraded to bowden and changed my carriage and hotend and this video is spot on! Just what I needed! Thanks a lot, Daniel!
Bowden is also on my list. What setup did you use? Can you post a link?
@@Crosslink3D Hey man!
J-Head - E3D V6 Clone
Black Diamond Bowden www.thingiverse.com/thing:3154420 (but I do not recommend it!)
Bowden Extruder Mount www.thingiverse.com/thing:2146021
Anet A8 X-axis R1 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2227422
I am planning to switch to those two:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2193695
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3583021
(The X-axis holder, because my original distance between the two X rods was 46mm and in most X carriages the distance is 45mm, so I thought to go for 45mm straight away since all in the future will be 45mm anyways...)
Cheers!
Thank you for this. I want to look at getting a BL Touch for my CR10S5 and I have to learn more about this coding and set up. I’ll be going through your videos with anticipation 😊
Thank You for the tutorial. Was a great help to someone just starting out in 3D Printing. All best from the Isle of Man.
Thank you so much. I struggled 2 entire days with changing firmware back and forth and now I finally have a centered nozzle again!
Thanks, always love to help!
Thank you for a clear and concise solution not found anywhere else. Keep up the videos. They are extremely helpful foe a novice like myself. I’m getting into 3D printing for my surgical practice. From Orlando.
Superb guide, really helped me dial in my DIY, even works for Marlin 2.0.6...this approach was even adaptable to calculate and pinpoint my BLTOUCH. Cheers from Germany.
Thanks to you I now have Marlin working correctly (mostly). Top notch videos, easy to understand and extremely informative.
Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.
@@Crosslink3D Maybe a video where you tell what problems you have had and how you fixed them? A video like that could well help a lot of people.
Dude I thought my printer was broken, I updated firmware and made changes for offsets with BLT, my prints have never been centered since.. I just dealt with it the best I could.. I went as far as trying a SKR DIP board, SKR mini, and now on the Creality 1.1.5, nothing worked. Watched your vid, and I am back to printing dead center!! can't thank you enough.
Thanks for the video i had forgotten how todo this. It works with the new marlin builds as well fixed mine on marlin bugfix 2.1
Thank you so much for existing. I've been trying to solve this for more than a week and didn't manage to do it. Them your video showed up in my youtube feed and made my day.
YOU ARE THE BOSS.
Glad I could help!
Hi. I’m glad you made this clip as I’m deaf and visual is better rather read. I converted mine Geetech Prusa I3 B Pro from wood to AM8 metal frame. Now it is off centre so this will help me. I don’t think my GT2567 board is flashable but I will try. 👍
Dear Daniel
beautiful guides ... I'm following them all ... and I'm finding myself very well .. but I wanted to share with you my experience on the bed center ... followed the whole guide .. I did all measures..but the the only way to make everything work was to write the results in the section "x_min_pos" ..and also the test with repetier host was perfect center..I hope that changes on Anet A8 ... never end ... good work and thanks
Gianluca
Thank you. Easiest setup and simplest explanation so far
Thanks, always love to help!
Thanks! Really good information as always. Thank you for all your hard work.
Excellent info! Gonna go do this right now. Thanks Daniel!
same here ! my nozzle is way off since i upgraded my carriage, and that video comes perfectly in time to help me ^^
Mind reading?
Hi Daniel, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, this finally solved my centering issue! You are very clear on explanations and makes things much easier for us. Greetings from Brazil!!
Great to hear!
This is borderline ridiculous, the information I need pops up with your video for a 3rd time in a row. Now I know why I subscribed :)
thanks daniel, i change the hotend and carriage of my ender 3, your guide help me a lot. Cheers from Argentina
Done at the first try! thanks a lot for the clear instructions!
Thank you so much! This sorted out a whole load of problems for me. You're a ⭐
Thanks a Lot !!! I was puzzle with this for a while . now it is DEAD Center !!!! Thanks a lot
Great!
@@Crosslink3D 2years later this still helping me !!!
Subscribed M500
Perfect, been struggling all day to centre my prints, you solved it for me. Although I didn't configure the firmware then flash, I used Prontoprint's console and entered the correct numbers following your calculations and now my prints are mm centred :D Was annoying having to grab the wipe line with tweezers as it was about 5mm over the edge. Not any more, thank you :)
Now to sort my E steps, off you watch another video of yours :D Many thanks from Cornwall, England :)
Daniel thanks for this video tutorial.
I changed the extruder for the E3D V6 and didn't have the exact center on the hotbed.
I did everything as in your manual and it's okay now.
All your videos are useful to me.
Also flash to MARLIN firmware according to your instructions 100%.
I have two ANET A8 printers and I am happy with them.
Thanks again. You are doing useful work.
Sorry for my English.
Thanks for that comment. Highly appreciated!
Thank you, Works great on marlin 2.0.x as well
How simple was that? you are the man.
The Plasanator, thanks for your comment. Always appreciate your contributions. If you have ideas or suggestions on what I can improve or what videos you like to see, please tell me here in the comment section. Daniel.
one year later im in the center of my printer thanks a lot Daniel!
Great video, my X is 110 and Y is -18
Nicely explained. Thank you for tutorial👌🏻
Can be done using GCODE M851 X-50.0 Y-10? Thank you!
Nice video and easy to follow
Thank you so much for making these videos, In Cura it shows the centre where the printer should be but in Pronerface its to the home position.How do I get them both in the centre of the bed. I have watched many many videos used a complete roll and still nothing. Please Please help.... Thank you.. Stay Safe.
Bill M8-( Scotland
Great vid as always
5:49 i dont have lcd so how to get this reading in pronterface also dont have that thing that you put on your nozzle
thank You for the tutorial, Its really helps!
Glad to hear that!
I just added an auto bed leveler to my CR10 S5 and flashed the latest Marlin software to my printer. The auto leveling works fine, but now my nozzle auto homes at the end of the print and squashes my prints. I am using Prusa and here is my end Gcode -
start code //{if max_layer_z
The drawing of an "X" on the bed surface from corner to corner is relative to the limitation of your actual printable area and would only work if the homed nozzle is perfectly at 0,0, or less, and can reach the opposite corner. If your nozzle can not reach both corners of the physical bed this will not work using the physical corners to draw your "X".
You want to center your printable area, not your physical bed.
Your bed "corner" would be where the nozzle is above the bed. Example: my nozzle can not travel off the bed on the X axis, the farthest it will go to the left leaves 3mm of bed left of the nozzle. I would need to draw a line on the left of the bed 3mm from the edge of the physical bed.
My Y axis is -5mm off the bed, so I would use the physical front of my bed and the line 3mm from the left edge as front-left corner, and In the configuration file I would set my Y position to "Y_MIN_POS -5" . You would also need to check the opposite corner to see where the actual limit of where your nozzle can go, then mark your printable bed area onto the tape, then you draw your X to those points.
In my case, my nozzle can reach the back-right corner on both the X and the Y of the physical bed. So, I would draw my "X" from the back right corner of the actual bed, to the front left "corner" where I drew 3mm right of the physical bed. If my bed is actually 300mm x 300mm my "X" will be 297mm x 300mm in this example. There is 3mm of physical bed on the left which the nozzle can not get to, so that is where my "X" should be cornered.
Big big thanks !!you've explained it very well, now my little Anet is at the top ;-)
I was looking for a nice tutorial, thanks!
Absolutely thrilled!thanks!
You're a lifesaver, great tutorial/ guide!
Great video. Was at 665 likes and...I couldn't help myself.
thats a tronxy 802. that is what just got. configuring everything now. z axis was bent, cant connect to pc, and its printing in the corner of the bed. WORK IN PROGRESS.
Hi...Thanks for the video....I followed along and was able to get the center perfect.....However, as a result of adding my values (X=4 Y=-5) into the MANUAL_X_HOME_POS etc, the readout on the LCD reflects that when homed.....Is there a way to add those values in Marlin and have the home X & Y display X=0, Y=0 etc....My slicer scripts for end of the print tell the machine to go to X=0 however its now actually X=4 (I know I can change it in the scripts to go to X=4), but I dont want to have to adjust to that.
Thanks for your help.
Thank you very much for the video, was very helpful.
great video but can you show us how to do the same procedure whit a 32 bit board?
Good video well explained and easy.! THX
Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.
@@Crosslink3D Yes, I m making a new cheap prusa and bought a motherboard ramps 1,4 you Know, but after that I find some not good quality things "Mosfet" heating, finishing, So you can make a review for motherboards Cheapest and Better lets say, from 10$ to 60 70$ lets say. I looked Rumba 100$ to much, and al things in my country are 2 with 4 times expensive, its a suggestion only take it if you like. THX
@@Crosslink3D Yes, I m making a new cheap prusa and bought a motherboard ramps 1,4 you Know, but after that I find some not good quality things "Mosfet" heating, finishing, So you can make a review for motherboards Cheapest and Better lets say, from 10$ to 60 70$ lets say. I looked Rumba 100$ to much, and al things in my country are 2 with 4 times expensive, its a suggestion only take it if you like. THX
one more fantastic video, thanks a lot Daniel!!!
Great to see you like it!
@@Crosslink3D cannot be better!!! Your tuturials are fantastic... it´s impossibel to not understand, keep the good Job!!! ( to be perfect in my case is to acomplish to upload the Marlin 2.0... with time I arrive there ;) )
Great Video you solved my problem :)
Glad I could help
great video thank you very much for what you do
How do you adjust home position? instead of the front left. I want it to be on the back left?
Why?
Nice tutorial Daniel:)
Thanks! :-D
Very helpful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great topic, thanks 👍
Hi, I did what you said and it worked, but... now when a print finishes or if I move the Y axis to 235, it grinds the belt. The home coordinates also show the values I entered into the firmware. I read another comment that said they had similar problems. I would greatly appreciate any help for this. I'm using Marlin 2.0.7.2.
how about when you are running Klipper, is it the same procedure ?
I need help purchased a t22 pro max plus and its sartinginfront and is not listed on cura
Can you explain why you reflashed Marlin just to reset the Home Offsets? Can't you just send M206 X0 Y0 to set them back to 0?
Thank you for your informative video. While it work and 110,110 is in the middle of the bed, my prints run off the edge. Basically with sensor-less homing, marlin doesn't know where the corner of the bed is (0,0) or at least it seems that way. Any suggestions on that? Thx
I need to have a look into this. Never used sensorless homing before but I am very interested in trying.
I was wondering if this can be done through Gcode commands as it is a royal pain to flash firmware to my Artillery Sidewinder X1. I have to tip the printer on its side, remove 6 screws on the bottom plate, carefully unplug the case fan, carefully pull the cable from the TFT board. Carefully set it upright so I don't pinch any cables and plug in the USB to flash.
The best would be to have a printer menu for that. Wondering why this was never implemented. Gcodes, I am not aware of that this can be done. Is the USB port of the sidewinder not reachable in any other way. Major design flaw then
Just getting into Marlin 2.0 on my A8 today, thank you for the videos btw! They've been super helpful in picking up configuration knowledge.
I have two questions:
1. Is it normal for the X and Y axis to say the coordinates on the LCD (example: X: -28 Y: -3)? If so, is it possible to set the origin to where those coordinates show as X: 0 Y: 0 on the display?
2. How can I setup mesh bed leveling on an A8 on Marlin 2.0? I saw one of your videos for an older version of Marlin, and I can't find a straight-foward way to do this.
Thank you for your videos! Looking forward to learning more following your channel!
I am working to update my guides to Marlin 2.0, so you can expect, I will cover these topics. The display of coordinate seems similar to what I have
@@Crosslink3D Thank you, I'm really looking forward to that! I actually just figured out mesh bed leveling tonight, mostly thanks to things I've picked up from your videos.
Is it possible for uploading on Arduino without verifying to cause the LCD text to glitch? Or could that be an SD card/USB error? Sorry to ask so many questions! My stock LCD is is displaying strange glitched text after homing, and other operations since a questionable writing process on Arduino earlier. I'm trying to rule out possibilities, as I'm new to Marlin.
Question i'm trying to print your x calibration file but I cant slice it nor can I see it on my printer screen when I load it on the sd card.
hello, i do this but when i put manual home (x=7 and y= 0) the printer going totally out of direction.. any idea?
Daniel/All:
I'm relatively new to this, and I'm wondering if this same procedure/commands are used in Marlin 2.1.2? I just replaced my Ender 3 Pro main board and LCD with the SKR 1.4 Turbo and the TFT35 E3 V3 as per your recommendations. Having some issues trying to compile the firmware correctly as I added a smart filament sensor and the new BTT CR Touch sensor, but I think I can figure it out. Thanks for all your help!
I don't seem to have these lines of code in my configuration.h file. I am running TH3D firmware on a Creality 1.1.5 board with BL touch. Any suggestions?
I know this is an older video... But would this fix the problem I have (installed a Sprite Pro head on my original Ender 3) and the nozzle homes about 13mm off the front of the bed. I've set the home offsets in through the printer menu but it still homes off the bed. When I try to do bed mesh leveling the first five point measure off the bed.
I just wondered why I need to print out the cross hair pattern? I would think I could just plug in on my printer G0 X150 Y150 after zeroing out the values in the firmware; move the print head to the center and adjust the values. Only skipping the initial X/Y cross hair printing step. Is there a particular reason this will not work?
Hi. I replaced firmware and now HOME does not exist. It goes up as he can reach and moves to the right until hitting the structure, I think step motors values are wrong as long as everything. What can I do? I have an Ender 3 clon printer, Sunhokey and installed a firmware as Ender 3. Thanks.
Thanks--So I set up everything, I have an SKR 1.4 turbo in a tarantula pro, for some reason after auto homing, z goes to upper right corner of bed to home and stays there--I would like it to home in center like everyone elses printer, I havent changed any settings/definitions in Marlin, z safe homing is enabled and x y (/2) bed size is defined--any suggestions?
So maybe it was just an coincidence but my values i measured where exact the same as my printer was showing after homing x and y !
Man where was this 11 months ago lmao I got my first 3d printer the anet a8 last year beggining of October and and while trying to upgrade I accidently ruined the nozzle threads and the hotend threads and had to use the nozzle that came with the e3d I had gotten ahead of time but since the hotend was damaged too it was oozing extra plastic from the top of the nozzle lol but for some reason was printing amazing so I panicked printed the e3d carriage I wanted but after the I couldnt print anything bigger than 40×40 lmao but man great vid very informative sorry for rambling. Oh and probably wont get to this cause it's so long but why did you put the values on a different line I figured this out myself by searching the marlin code(first time at that point ever working with code) till I found the values in it that match the LCD screens homed values and changed them on the same line and has been working great but was wondering why you put it on another line sorry rambling again I'm done now lol.
Great video: I have one question: I am not sure why you need to print the calibration pattern. I would think all you need to do is home, then move X, Y to center. On my printer it is 150 x150mm. Then move printhead to the actual center where I drew the X with a pencil. So it looks like I really don't need to print the test pattern. I could then print a test patter afterwards to see if it is printing in the center. All the print patter would tell me is I am printing off center. And Moving printer to X150, Y150 seems to do the same thing. Am I missing something?
Oh I just now see I ask the same question when I calibrated another printer about a year ago.
Daniel since I install Marlin 1.1 bug fix at the middle of a print the printer gives me "Thermal Runaway" error, can you help me? I´m using a Mosfet in the extruder...
I have a question is he using blue tape as a bed for 3d printing?
The menus and where stuff is located is a bit different for the TH3D Unified Firmware... where do I enter my offset values in this version, which menu tab?
how do I set my origin point to the center of the bed in firmware?
Can this be done 1:! with Marlin2.0?
And why using the Manual_X/Y_Home not the X/Y_MIN_POS?
Also couldn't the option BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 be used for that? (I mean the description for this option is "The center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)"
I was able to center the bed, but when printin in cure it is like is not taking that value because it keeps moving more than expected in the edges, so weird
I have been following your steps to fix the center of my gantry pro with a 310 310 410 print area and i totally ruined it flashing the firmware. What profile do i need to use for my printer? Im having a meltdown here
nice video, i like it, very helpful
GBU
i assume the same will work for marlin2 ?
hey can you help
i dont have LCD i wanna how to see as you num 114y 146x
pls help where can i see it
Im trying to do this in Marlin 2.0 and I only see 5 tabs where you have a lot more. Im doing a search for mem pos and it doesn't exist. Is setting this up different in 2.0? And if so, whats the bit of code i need to adjust for the difference?
This did not work for me. Mine still prints about 4mm to the right. i basically have a tevo tornado with bltouch so it is almost same setup as you just bigger. not sure what im doing wrong but i have tried everything so far and nothing has made a difference. If i do manage to get it centered, it will then hit the x end stop but motor keeps going. What am i missing here?
That looks a little convoluted. If I programmed this you would be able to simply travel from the home point with the control buttons to the edges of your bed and have the x-y readout on the display, then save the settings like you do when bed levelling and Marlin would know how big the bed was from the home point which is the point of reference....you could manually enter the x and y values displayed on the screen and then Bob's your uncle. Does that not make sense? Am I missing something?
Hey Daniel, Just installed the DDX from bondtech, and have tried to follow this video (On stock it worked great) However, each time i do the MANUAL_X_HOME_POS it still doesn't center the bed.
I have tried this like 20 times now, even used the G0 X115 Y115 Z2 to get it to align, but it doesn't work, what am i doing wrong?
Hey Daniel... i was wondering if you could help me out with an issue i ran into.. the problem is i flashed my standard Anet A8 with marlin 1.1.8 auto level (cause i added a sensor onto it) everything seems to be working except the most important option... when i select print from SD and the Gcode to print, it heats up nto its temps, reaches its temperatures on the hotend and the bed, but will not start the print, its just sits there... is there anything i need to change in the marlin config file to get it to print?
i have built an AM8 style printer and my bed is bigger 250 x 250 im having problems that if i tell the printer move 250 in either x or y position it goes most of the way but its about 50mm off in each direction my settins are as follows #define
X_BED_SIZE 250
#define Y_BED_SIZE 250
#define X_MIN_POS -102
#define Y_MIN_POS -3
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 270
the values for x and y POS are set based on the printer being homed then measuring the distances of X and y from position X 0.0 and y 0.0 so when i tell pronterface to goto one of these positions it goes to the front of the bed corner which is perfect. i was told this is how to do it so that the printer knowss where the bed is but x and y are around 50mm short so i dont understand why
thank you in advance