Support the channel and pick up some garage tools here: horusworks.com/ Link to the ball joint press tool: www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=ball+joint+press+tool&_sacat=0
I would not have done this job without you. Thank you so much for your excellent video that explains it all that you gave me confidence. My BA Fairmont Ghia needed these done with some other stuff and I'm so happy to have done the work myself. Saved allot too. Mate, you're a legend 👏 👏 👏
Ray that's so good to see mate - really appreciate you commenting to let me know. So much can be done at home with a little effort. Thanks for your support 👍
Thanks for the great video, Just a couple of points here for others, the Lower Ball Joint nuts are in fact 13/16" & not 22mm & also you dont need to remove the Tie Rods Ends or the Upper Ball Joints to replace the Lower Ball Joints .... John
Appreciate the comment Greg! Hoping this video shows that it's not that daunting to get this done at home - bad lower ball joints on a Falcon can be dangerous.
That was a fortunate find. I had an EL for a while. Had a real problem with front discs warping with it. Head gasket was the final straw and it was gonsky.
Yeah I hear the E series falcons had head gasket issues. All resolved after the mighty AU. These cars seem under-braked, too much weight for the size of brakes from factory, so warping would be common. I'll start looking at a brake upgrade myself.
Yep. You need well aligned and flawless suspension on this beauty. What's more: perfect steering is pivotal. Great content. What' next? Barra tune? :-)) Take care!
I also have an ignition problem with a 2009 Territory I bought at auction. Key lights everything up but will not crank. I've been told steering column has to come out. :( Any suggestions?@@Horus_Works
@@ghengis5410 sorry mate but this one is new to me... I wouldn't know what the problem is, but I'd start by reading fault codes with a scan tool. Try Forscan.
@@ghengis5410 if it does start mate, I'd say it's an electrical issue then, probably a connection inside the ignition barrel. Maye a connection or wire is loose inside either the key barrel, or the the steering column going to the key. That's as far as I can guess without taking the car apart. Whatever the problem is, it seems to be on your steering column where the key is located, so maybe have a look around there, or ask an auto electrician to take off the plastic covers and have a look for you. Good luck 🙂
Glad to see that mate, and appreciate you watching... More Falcon DIY vids here if you need them 👍 th-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGH3CC2OEwG5Y0ikyrd-om5g.html
I run 19x 9.5 +22 rims, was also worried abt the upper ball joint hitting the wheel it’s in millimetres of clearance, I’m wondering if those components move seperate from the wheels or if they match the movement of the wheels which means they can’t bounce into the upper control arm and ball joint
i have just had this exact issue, car is now stuck at work tonight while i try to find new ball joints, going to replace the one but want to get new (oem style) lower control arms, any reputable brands i can get (both sides) PS. mine sat on the rotor for the whole 30 mins to work, and upon removing the rotor, promptly seperated, great sucess, traded a rotor for my wheel wrapping around my guard
Sounds like you got lucky, they can let go in a big way... I always check these now, every time the car is up in the air. Takes a second and I can sleep at night 😅
Today was the most stressful day of my life, boss needed the hoist by 12, got the ball joint out in 20 mins, ran around and paid a ridiculous $86 for a new one, then had to freeze and ugga dugga the prick in with a sledge hammer, got it done by 11:30 but I felt, and still feel sick with worry, I don't even know if it went all the way home in the control arm
@@iracarew5172 you don't need a hoist to change these mate - just chock up the front, take the wheel off and have a look to see if it's in properly. You'll be okay, just check your work. Also, invest in a ball joint press kit. I've got a link to it in the description. You'll have it forever.
I would have done it at home, but when I put it on the hoist at work to have a look, it separated fully and was un-drivable I have a mate with a press, but sadly couldn't get onto him yesterday morning, and due to not having the right tools, I've now got a chirping/shuddering in my steering which I was told was due to putting pressure on the bottom of the ball joint (out a bottle jack under it and hammered the control arm down over it)
In the video, You were wondering about the FG front lower suspension. I have a couple of FG mk2 utes. The lower front suspension has 2 arms and lower ball joints. A lower control arm, which holds the strut and sway bar. And a radius arm. Both bolted to the front stub axle assembly. Ford might have realised that the single ball joint on the lower arm was a weak point. Having 2 arms might mean half the load on each ball joint.
@@Horus_Works Yes. I replaced the upper wishbones, lower control arms and radius arms on my older (mileage) FG mk2 at about 450 000km. The ball joints weren't that bad: slight play. The rubber bushings on the other end of each arm, had worn out and had lots of movement. The ball joints, and bushings on FGs are not designed to be replaced as a separate item. The whole preassembled arms are replacement parts. Seems somewhat wasteful, throwing out the old arms. Does mean the task is a fairly simple spanner and socket effort. No special tools needed. Apart from a wheel alignment after the vehicle is reassembled.
Hey Caine, that can be done too, but it's not necessarily quicker. You'll need to deal with the strut and springs, plus moving the cross member bolts out of the way first before the control arms come out. But if you need to replace your control arm bushings as well, then it's definitely the way to go 👍
Legend! Using this kit means no hydraulic press or complete dismantle of control arms. Anyone know where I can find a video of replacing rear parking shoes for a BA/BF. Plenty for changing brake pads and rotors but none for complete replacement of park brake shoes.
I just did the job. My biggest piece of advice is to make sure you replace that wire spring thing. Put the car in park and then let the handbrake off. Then jack it up, it’s usually best to do this one by one so one wheel is providing some braking force. Once you have the rear wheel off, remove the rear calliper and then the rotor. With the rotor off, you can use a flathead to lever the park shoe upwards (lever on the opposite side of where you see the adjuster wheel). It wheel slide up and clear and then you can swing it out and off.
It is good video,but from my experiance you should remove rubber boot before instalation and greased ball join and replace boot with spring on bottom.I notes factory ford boot is not greased properly only few drops off molly grease is on join and you will have problem again after few years like me.
@@Horus_Works , thanks for responding. That's what ended out working. That or the 200 blows in between drinks of penetrative oil. Lol. Got a sub from me brother. 🤙
Command the effort with 22 mm socket but you had all the tools in the kit tho the small tube is used to push it out the last bit, also when you are putting it back in you should use the bottom spacer not just run the g clamp onto cup, if you look inside the spacer there is a tapered edge to stop the cup moving and it stops your g-clamp from walking around
Yep, I'm keeping a very close eye on the ball joints, so far all good... The top ones are totally okay so I've left them, but easy enough to do once they're due - probably when the bottom ones are close to letting go again 😀
Afraid to say the ball joint should never be let get that amount of play. Annual and Easy to check, I placed a floor jack under lower suspension arm and raise vehicle just enough for wheel and tyre to clear floor, place lever under tyre and lift up and down and you can hear/ feel for any play. And while you had the suspension arm out you should have replaced both top and bottom , also should have done the brake pads as well. No brainer.
Just bought an AU, real disappointment, poorly built. Thin sheet metal all round, pedal box already welded, plastic fuel tank that smells off fuel on a hot day and a clutch pedal like a brick. There's a reason why they folded in Australia. Sorry People, just realised, the ball joints are fuked because the roads are just the same quality as they car.😊
Support the channel and pick up some garage tools here: horusworks.com/
Link to the ball joint press tool:
www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=ball+joint+press+tool&_sacat=0
I would not have done this job without you. Thank you so much for your excellent video that explains it all that you gave me confidence. My BA Fairmont Ghia needed these done with some other stuff and I'm so happy to have done the work myself. Saved allot too. Mate, you're a legend 👏 👏 👏
Ray that's so good to see mate - really appreciate you commenting to let me know. So much can be done at home with a little effort. Thanks for your support 👍
Wow! Those tuning wheels are wonderful! The best moment is trying your successful work on the road 😊.
Yes! Thank you!
Great instruction, slick editing, straight to the point! 👍
Thank you mate, I appreciate that 👍
Thanks for the great video, Just a couple of points here for others, the Lower Ball Joint nuts are in fact 13/16" & not 22mm & also you dont need to remove the Tie Rods Ends or the Upper Ball Joints to replace the Lower Ball Joints .... John
Thanks for the info!
Very good quality video mate 👌
Tank you mate - I appreciate you saying so 👍
Hi mate. Can't thank you enough for this video. Very much appreciated 👍
Happy to see that the video is useful mate - most welcome 🙂
Just did this repair. Fixed my issue 110%. Needs a wheel alignment now as it is out.
Excellent! Very clear and straightforward. I hope it’s as easy replacing the ball joints on my EL Falcon. Thanks.
Welcome mate, I hope it helps you get the ball joints replaced on the EL. It shouldn't be too different...
Brilliant! I like your presentation style. Well explained. When I need to do this job, I now know exactly how to go about it.
Appreciate the comment Greg! Hoping this video shows that it's not that daunting to get this done at home - bad lower ball joints on a Falcon can be dangerous.
So very well explained detailed video footage on subject excellent. Thankyou
Thanks Dave, I appreciate you watching and for your comment. I hope the lower ball joint video was handy 👍
I like every single a video this person is amazing.
It's comments like these that help me keep going - I appreciate you watching 👍
That was a fortunate find. I had an EL for a while. Had a real problem with front discs warping with it. Head gasket was the final straw and it was gonsky.
Yeah I hear the E series falcons had head gasket issues. All resolved after the mighty AU. These cars seem under-braked, too much weight for the size of brakes from factory, so warping would be common. I'll start looking at a brake upgrade myself.
Yep. You need well aligned and flawless suspension on this beauty. What's more: perfect steering is pivotal.
Great content. What' next? Barra tune? :-))
Take care!
Couldn't agree more! For now I have some maintenance to do, but yes, hoping for some performance tuning soon :)
Nice work mate great quality video you've earned a subscriber 🤙
Awesome, thanks a lot for the sub 👍
I'd imagine the upper ball joint replacement would be similar to the lower one. Ordered the press tool kit. :)
The upper joints will be easier, only a few bolts to undo 😊👍
Took a bit of finding this video, but glad I did. I have the same exact problem with my ba.
Thanks mate, I'm glad you found it, and that it helped get your Falcon lower ball joints replaced. Consider subscribing for more Falcon DIY vids 👍
I also have an ignition problem with a 2009 Territory I bought at auction. Key lights everything up but will not crank. I've been told steering column has to come out. :( Any suggestions?@@Horus_Works
@@ghengis5410 sorry mate but this one is new to me... I wouldn't know what the problem is, but I'd start by reading fault codes with a scan tool. Try Forscan.
Sometimes when I push the key and turn at the same time, it will start, but just getting worse till no start, but thanks anyway.
@@ghengis5410 if it does start mate, I'd say it's an electrical issue then, probably a connection inside the ignition barrel. Maye a connection or wire is loose inside either the key barrel, or the the steering column going to the key. That's as far as I can guess without taking the car apart. Whatever the problem is, it seems to be on your steering column where the key is located, so maybe have a look around there, or ask an auto electrician to take off the plastic covers and have a look for you. Good luck 🙂
This was so helpful mate - thank you!
Glad to see that mate, and appreciate you watching... More Falcon DIY vids here if you need them 👍
th-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGH3CC2OEwG5Y0ikyrd-om5g.html
Great video mate. Job well done 👍
Thank you mate, I appreciate you saying so, and for watching the vid 👍
That is really good to see how to remove a ball joint, really good information job well done very good..
Enjoy that video
Thanks so much for your comment Henry, I appreciate you watching! I hope you can subscribe for more videos to come :)
Well said. I've got 1999 AU 2 station wagon 365,000km still going, just!
I love the AUs!! I've had 3 :) probably the most reliable Falcons ever built!
I run 19x 9.5 +22 rims, was also worried abt the upper ball joint hitting the wheel it’s in millimetres of clearance, I’m wondering if those components move seperate from the wheels or if they match the movement of the wheels which means they can’t bounce into the upper control arm and ball joint
The upper ball joint moves with the wheel, so no need to worry 👍
A1 tutorial.
Thanks buddy, appreciate you watching. Here's a few more on the Falcon if you ever need them 👍
th-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGH3CC2OEwG5Y0ikyrd-om5g.html
I've got an LPG falcon too, all the bushings are cooked. Would you suggest I replace the whole control arm to save mucking around with presses
Yeah unless you want to put urethanes in, just replace the whole arm - not much more $ and saves a tonne of time.
Nice job🎉
I agree 100%
Thanks 😁
Excellent video, question please If I buy the controls arms kit ,I don't have to do all this work, is that correct?
Thank you.
Thanks for watching 👍 and yep, new control arms will have these installed already.
i have just had this exact issue, car is now stuck at work tonight while i try to find new ball joints, going to replace the one but want to get new (oem style) lower control arms, any reputable brands i can get (both sides)
PS. mine sat on the rotor for the whole 30 mins to work, and upon removing the rotor, promptly seperated, great sucess, traded a rotor for my wheel wrapping around my guard
Sounds like you got lucky, they can let go in a big way... I always check these now, every time the car is up in the air. Takes a second and I can sleep at night 😅
Today was the most stressful day of my life, boss needed the hoist by 12, got the ball joint out in 20 mins, ran around and paid a ridiculous $86 for a new one, then had to freeze and ugga dugga the prick in with a sledge hammer, got it done by 11:30 but I felt, and still feel sick with worry, I don't even know if it went all the way home in the control arm
@@iracarew5172 you don't need a hoist to change these mate - just chock up the front, take the wheel off and have a look to see if it's in properly. You'll be okay, just check your work. Also, invest in a ball joint press kit. I've got a link to it in the description. You'll have it forever.
I would have done it at home, but when I put it on the hoist at work to have a look, it separated fully and was un-drivable
I have a mate with a press, but sadly couldn't get onto him yesterday morning, and due to not having the right tools, I've now got a chirping/shuddering in my steering which I was told was due to putting pressure on the bottom of the ball joint (out a bottle jack under it and hammered the control arm down over it)
In the video, You were wondering about the FG front lower suspension. I have a couple of FG mk2 utes. The lower front suspension has 2 arms and lower ball joints. A lower control arm, which holds the strut and sway bar. And a radius arm. Both bolted to the front stub axle assembly. Ford might have realised that the single ball joint on the lower arm was a weak point. Having 2 arms might mean half the load on each ball joint.
@railtrolley nice, thanks mate, half the load must have solved the problem as I don't know of FGs having this issue.
@@Horus_Works Yes. I replaced the upper wishbones, lower control arms and radius arms on my older (mileage) FG mk2 at about 450 000km. The ball joints weren't that bad: slight play. The rubber bushings on the other end of each arm, had worn out and had lots of movement. The ball joints, and bushings on FGs are not designed to be replaced as a separate item. The whole preassembled arms are replacement parts. Seems somewhat wasteful, throwing out the old arms. Does mean the task is a fairly simple spanner and socket effort. No special tools needed. Apart from a wheel alignment after the vehicle is reassembled.
@@railtrolley well that makes things easy on the Falcon FGs then 🙂
@@railtrolley well that's a lot easier than a BF!...
Would it not be quicker to undo the balljoint nut, the strut bolt and control arm bolts and drop the whole control arm out and replace it?
Hey Caine, that can be done too, but it's not necessarily quicker. You'll need to deal with the strut and springs, plus moving the cross member bolts out of the way first before the control arms come out. But if you need to replace your control arm bushings as well, then it's definitely the way to go 👍
Good job thanks
Welcome 😊
Legend! Using this kit means no hydraulic press or complete dismantle of control arms. Anyone know where I can find a video of replacing rear parking shoes for a BA/BF. Plenty for changing brake pads and rotors but none for complete replacement of park brake shoes.
get a workshop manual, adjust them.
I just did the job. My biggest piece of advice is to make sure you replace that wire spring thing.
Put the car in park and then let the handbrake off. Then jack it up, it’s usually best to do this one by one so one wheel is providing some braking force.
Once you have the rear wheel off, remove the rear calliper and then the rotor. With the rotor off, you can use a flathead to lever the park shoe upwards (lever on the opposite side of where you see the adjuster wheel). It wheel slide up and clear and then you can swing it out and off.
Mine was a bit late but lucky came off freeway reversed in driveway and the lower ball joint separated sooo lucky 16:06
Whoa, lucky escape!!!
Fantástico. Ir seguro es esencial
Gracias amigo mío
It is good video,but from my experiance you should remove rubber boot before instalation and greased ball join and replace boot with spring on bottom.I notes factory ford boot is not greased properly only few drops off molly grease is on join and you will have problem again after few years like me.
Thanks for the tip, next time I'm in there I'll take a look. 👍
Is there another way to get the parts separated at 7.20? I'm bashing and bashing. I feel like something else is going to break before it let's go. 😢
Try soaking it in WD40 for about an hour. Usually works for me. Don't be afraid to give it a good smash.
@@Horus_Works , thanks for responding.
That's what ended out working. That or the 200 blows in between drinks of penetrative oil. Lol.
Got a sub from me brother. 🤙
@JMW Concepts yep, sometimes brute force does it!! 😅
Thanks for the sub mate - I hope you'll find the vids useful 👍
Great viv!! Thanks
Most welcome! 👍 Hope that you sub for more vids to come 😀
Burnout time! 🛞🔥
Where do u get torque specs from?
You can get the service repair manuals from eBay, so I picked one up and I'm going off that.
👍👍👍
Command the effort with 22 mm socket but you had all the tools in the kit tho the small tube is used to push it out the last bit, also when you are putting it back in you should use the bottom spacer not just run the g clamp onto cup, if you look inside the spacer there is a tapered edge to stop the cup moving and it stops your g-clamp from walking around
Thanks for the tips Colin, I'll definitely give them a go next time - appreciate you watching 👍
That my car to a tee
Great cars - especially the gas bit when it comes time to fill up :)
I cant seem to remove the bolt out of the control arm the steering rack is in the way what's the secret
Try taking the bolt off from the front - opposite side to where the steering arm is. Around 7:05 in the video
Lowered Fords with ball joints not a match made in heaven i thought while you had it apart you would do the top one
Yep, I'm keeping a very close eye on the ball joints, so far all good... The top ones are totally okay so I've left them, but easy enough to do once they're due - probably when the bottom ones are close to letting go again 😀
Only good comments.👍👍👍
Thanks!
Am I missing something 🧐 does your car not have abs? Sensor Missing?😮
Afraid to say the ball joint should never be let get that amount of play. Annual and Easy to check, I placed a floor jack under lower suspension arm and raise vehicle just enough for wheel and tyre to clear floor, place lever under tyre and lift up and down and you can hear/ feel for any play. And while you had the suspension arm out you should have replaced both top and bottom , also should have done the brake pads as well. No brainer.
Yeah the joints were really bad, good think I picked them up early when I bought the car.
Just bought an AU, real disappointment, poorly built. Thin sheet metal all round, pedal box already welded, plastic fuel tank that smells off fuel on a hot day and a clutch pedal like a brick. There's a reason why they folded in Australia.
Sorry People, just realised, the ball joints are fuked because the roads are just the same quality as they car.😊