Ford Territory SY2 Ball Joint Upgrade AWD
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- This is my how to on installing the newer SY2 suspension that fixes the bad ball joint design. This is a good upgrade to any SX or SY Territory that is used on road or offroad.
Although a great car there was a significant issue with the front lower ball joints. All models up until the SY2 saw a design that had constant tension on the ball joints which resulted in the joint failing causing early signs of wear and tear and in some extreme cases causing the wheel to detach from the suspension. This problem persisted up until the SY2 Territory. The newer model produce a new design that added compression therefore righting the problem of early wear and tear and failure.
All the Torque settings are taken from the Max Ellery EP.F204 workshop manual.
PARTS:
SY2 Knuckles.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-F...
SY2 Lower Control and Radius Arm's.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-Fron...
CV Shaft Hub Nuts.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-Fron...
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Mate, don’t know where to begin, but thank you heaps for this video. Spent 3 days on my Ford Territory SX 2004 AWD upgrading the whole front bushes, arms etc. Your video made a step by step guide that saved me so much time and money. Have you got one on the drive shaft replacement procedure and the rear bushes and arms. That’s my Easter weekend plan. Wishing you the very best bud.
Cheers Bernie
No I haven't at the moment. It's something I should do but time is my problem. I just picked up another SX AWD and it's been on my mind to do some more how to videos on common territory problems.
I want to send thanks for this vid, it got me through my suspension refurb. 👍
All good glad it helped. I probably should do more like this.
Top job boys. 💪🏻👍🏻
Awesome video however never use steel hammer try to remove from the CV shaft and wheel bearing. best way is using copper hammer save the damage on the axle thread and wheel bearings
i do believe that the SZ will need the SZ abs sensors plugs cut and rejigged to be able to plug back in with the SX/ SY models due to the different casting hole in the knuckles. Great video and I would also recommend that new bearing and hubs if not only bearing be replaced while they are off the car
I always go for the new genuine Ford SY2 hubs. This wasn't my car and he got a gooddeal on the sz knuckles. Not sure about changing the plugs but the sx/sy sensor's work just fine after you shave the mount down to be the same
@@TerritoryOffroad no worries Keith, from my understanding of the connector plug on the Sz is that they are slightly smaller where they connect or at least the FG version was. Knowing ford it would also have a resitor change so they didnt talk to each other for us that like to play with upgrades.
@@gore1978 yea plug itself is different but I've never stripped them back to see. I honestly think just getting the new SY2 knuckles is the best option.
@@TerritoryOffroad yep less stress and headaches getting the SY2. all those resitor values and soldering from the SZ to the SX for the steering wheel was bad enough and I was lucky I handballed that off to someone else.
Awesome video mate! Someone should have made this years before now. Does it apply to AU and B series? Maybe with FG parts? Ball joints under tension suck, would be a good upgrade for RTV owners. Keep up the good work 👍
Not sure about falcons maybe if using the RWD stuff.
Well produced video, great stuff. I'm looking at the AWD Territory as my next camping car. I think it has the room and the capabilities for what I do these days and being a Ford with a Barra 4.0, pretty easy to maintain. What's the cost of the ball joint upgrade? Is it a must do or should do?
I would recommend the upgrade for peace of mind ecspecially if your going to do dirt road driving. You can just replace the old style ball joints if your not looking to spend heaps but they are something to always keep a eye on and replace again if you think they aren't 100% in any way.
You can pick SY2 parts up use for anything between $350 to $600. To buy everything new the knuckles are $450 plus shipping, lower control and radius arm's are $419 and the hub lock nuts are $20.
The barra is easy to maintain but not known to be the best on fuel. A big thing to look out for when buying a territory is the condition of the suspension. Diff bushes are top of that list as they wear out and can cost a lot to replace.
great video mate. Just want to ask regarding the knuckle with the ball joint in. In order to replace the ball joint, should I use a Ball joint Press? Thanks
Yes or a press.
I’m assuming a wheel alignment is required after this conversion? Also, I really enjoyed the music! Care to share what it is please mate?
It's off audio jungle called guitar. You can drive it no problems after the conversion but like when doing any suspension mods I'd recommend a wheel alignment.
@@TerritoryOffroad cheers mate!
Jacking up the control arm like that does not get the suspension to ride height. Close, but it will fall short overall and reduce the life of the bushes.
If you are going to hit the CV shaft like that leave the nut on loose because if you miss and ruin the start of the thread then you can use the nut "fix" the thread as you wind it off. If you bugger the thread without being able to fix it you'll be in trouble.
I'm a carpenter by trade so swinging a hammer is easy for me. Yes leaving the nut on is a very good way to play it safe.
What would you do to get the suspension up to ride height before torquing everything up?
@@TerritoryOffroad I hit the things with a hammer too, same with tie rod ends and ball joints. Just experience has taught me it's safest to leave the nut on just in case. Last CV shaft I knocked out I clipped the edge of the thread and partially flattened the first thread. Only saviour was I left the nut on.
There is no easy way to get the suspension to ride height apart from putting the wheels on the ground and rolling it back and forth until it's settled. But then getting under the car is almost impossible. Jacking up like you did leaves it short by 30 to 40mm in my experience working on Falcons, mainly B-series. It's alot better than torquing up when at full droop though. Props to you though for recognising they need to be done at right height and pointing it out in the vid. Very few videos do and it would mean they are doing bush swaps very soon after.
Back in the day to get it close to ride height I would measure the height from the centre of the hub to the guard above it while the wheels are on the ground. Then I'd remove the shock/spring unit and jack up under the arm as you until I got the same hub to guard measurement and torque everything up. It's an extra step and time, not something everyone wants to do, and may not always be practical for every car. But it served me well with Falcons.
It's also why I have a preference for urethane bushes, specifically Superpro, because they can be done up in any position. They aren't to everyone's taste, but it means I don't have to worry about ride heights and ruining bushes when torquing them up.
@@arm7987cheers for extra info. About to takle this on 2wd sz
This would be a worthy addition if doing the lift kit yeah?
It's a good addition even if your not. In my step by step lift video I also do the SY2 upgrade as it really is a great upgrade for any SX or SY Territory
gday, is there a way to tell if i have sz or sy2 knuckles before i grind the sensor mount? what i have looks pretty similar to the before and after pics, and part number isnt coming up on google search
You could remove the sensor from the old knuckles and check if it's the same depth or about 3mm bigger
thanks for the quick reply 👍🏻 i might grind them anyway and make a spacer in case. cheers
@@baesex it's easy to do on the car
I installed some front cv axles today and the bolts i got with the cvs dont spin around the bottom like factory ones does that matter at all ? Cheers
All the new CV shafts I've bought have come with there own nut. I just used them but have wanted to change them for pac nuts just haven't had time. Torque the nuts that come with them and they still work fine.
Bolt's or Nuts?
I mean nuts sorry. Yea i just used the new ones and torqued to spec thanks man
Hello, I’ve got a 2004 Ford territory, it was my first car and I really like it. However today the lower control arm broke and the cv joint came out the side towards the motor. I am waiting until Monday to call up the mechanic.
But my question is, is it possible to upgrade all the bad components in the territory, like this and have it never to break or will it always need replacing in a while? And do you think it’s worth keeping and having to replace, if so?
I really like the car and want to keep it, but if I am going to need to spend so much money I’m thinking of selling it and paying off a brand new car.
If you check my other videos you can see what I put my SY2 suspension through and I've never had a problem with it. It's very hard if your going to pay someone else to do the work as labour is a big cost. The old design was very bad and the new design really is a 100% better.
You will need to get the full front end inspected after this happening as I'd say your also up for a new CV shaft. The territory is a very good and reliable car but often gets neglected when it comes to maintenance.
Get more then one quote and don't be afraid to question the quote. If your in Melbourne I'd be more then happy to try help you out.
@@TerritoryOffroad Is it going to cost a lot for inspection and replacement? I believe it's only the lower control arm and CV joint that needs replacing, the upper control arm had been replaced last year.
I actually live in Melbourne too, do you charge a lot for that kind of stuff?
@@XSeanxMeowX I don't charge anything I'm just happy to help. If you check out the Facebook group's: territory offroad or ford territory camping & offroad just send me a message. Name is Keith hansby
@@TerritoryOffroad Cheers! I will do that, thanks