place a small amount of copper anti-sieze on the new sparkys. #3 plug is aligned with the LPG feed hose over the top 0:56 that does get cold and causes condensation in surrounding area.
Pretty small chance that those threads are crossed, just because of the depth of the hole they go into. I recommend a thread chaser, which doesn't cut the threads, but it cleans the existing threads. People install spark plugs dry, then torque them up like they are head studs. I put molybdenum grease on mine, then tighten them enough to squash the pug washer and no more. Excellent video ✔️
You should not put any grease on spark plug before instalation, "it is wrong"drop of oil is OK and spark plugs has anti seize protection by factory.This spark plugs is Iridium Japanise good quality pre gaped 1.1 for LPG,Petrol 1.4 +0.05 or -0.05.
Thanks for the video great help for me done 5 today, Took the 6th coil out and the probe to the plug never come out finally got it will try to get the plug out tomorrow. My third had oil around it & looked like water had got in. As a retired sparky I used insulation tape to keep the extension & plug socket together. I had one of those small ratchets that take the small bits for the allen screw at the rear. My intake was mangled as well. I also put a bit of anti sieze on the spark plugs. I only have a half inch plug socket I will put an adaptor on & use a three eighth universal & bar to try and do the 6th plug tomorrow. I love the BA's bit of a design fault getting to the 6th plug.
Hey Barry, glad to see that the video was helpful. Yeah the 6th plug is harder to reach for sure, but not impossible with some yoga moves. They just had to recess the plastic cowel there ever so slightly and things would have been fine, but oh well. Best of luck with finishing her off, and thanks for your comment. That small ratchet with an allen extension would have been a time saver! 👍
G'day there, great videos actually. I really enjoy watching them. I'm interested in how I might replace the Evaporator Sensor in my car. It's been hard to find anything on TH-cam on how I might do it. I have two Ford Falcons, a BF MKII and an FG MKII. The BF has done about 300,000 kms now and the Barra is still going strong. I just drove it from Adelaide to Brisbane actually, didn't miss a beat.
A handy hint - I remove the oil cap last just before taking the black coil cover off. When I do, I place a rag rolled up in a ball stuffed reasonably tight into the hole whilst removing the black coil cover. Same but opposite when putting it all back together. The last thing you want is dirt, a screw or rubber grommet from the back of the coil cover falling into the oil cap hole & ending up somewhere you can't reach it. I also put a very thin smear of copper grease on the new plug threads. Love your videos but not as much as my BA XR6 Ute. Cheers
Hi Eric, new subscriber to your channel. Love the Falcon vid’s. I have a 2008 E-gas BF2 sedan with just 22,000 km’s which I’ve had since new. It’s a garage Queen! 🤣. I love your laid back presenting style. Keep the Falcon vid’s coming. Btw screwing anything into alloy should have a small amount of copper anti-seize applied to avoid tears later on.
Hey Greg, thanks for your comment and for subscribing mate. I think your E-gas BF2 will be worth a pretty penny one day, considering the mileage... hold on to it 😉 and thanks for the tip about the anti-seize!
Eric, can you tell me where your temp needle sits when engine is hot, I thought mine used to sit on the mark before noon and never move, now it seems to be between that mark and noon, and sometimes it almost hits noon - probably in hot weather?
Hi Eric I did my plugs not 2months ago , and all but 2 of my coils were a prick to get out, the bottoms snapped in half , bugger of a job but good video.
Hey mate, yeah some of the plugs were so hard to remove - I was super careful, winding in and out a bit at a time, worried that I'd either snap a glug or destroy the threads in the head. I hear anti seize like copper grease helps for next time...
Hey mate I have problem with my ford falcon when run on Lpg it back fire badly any suggestions what could be wrong Is it because of bad spark plugs or leads ?
Hey mate, the LPG Falcons can all backfire once in a while when they start. If it does start afterwards and it runs fine don't worry about it too much. But if it's backfiring all the time and it's not running well, I'd start with plugs and leads. Another problem could be the lpg system itself. If it's never been done, take a look at the feeder mechanism located next to the coolant expansion tank inside the engine bay - it's the round metal thing sitting above the exhaust manifold. Make sure that it's not leaking anywhere and that all hoses are okay, and that all the wiring is plugged in. They can also get clogged up. Right at the bottom of that round metal unit there is a small bolt that acts as a drain plug. Loosen that to release any built up gunk and water that may be clogging the system. Finally, I'd also check the PCV system. Check that your PCV valve is plugged in, both at the top of the engine block (at the back near the firewall), and then that hose leads to under the intake manifold - make sure it's plugged in there too. Hope that helps mate, best of luck 👍
Hello mate! I’ve a territory with that engine and I’m thinking it need a new spark plugs and coils. When is in D stopped in a red light i can feel some vibration or little “dumps”. Do you think that it is not working well? What do you recommend? Thanks mate
Hey Lucas, next time you're at a red light, check your rev gauge on the dash. If it's moving up and down, you may have an ignition issue so check the plugs yes... it also may be a throttle position sensor, ignition coils, or even a vacuum leak - you won't really know till you take a look around under the bonnet. If you're not sure, take it to a local mechanic - they will probably find the cause pretty quickly. You won't have to get them to do the work if you don't want, just get them to diagnose it... If the revs are steady, the problem is somewhere else... maybe your engine mounts are ready for a change...
Old secret for removing stack spark plugs is "mixing 50% transmition oil+50% Acetone" and in 1 or two hours spark plugs will be outh easy and W40 is not good enought penetration for this job.
place a small amount of copper anti-sieze on the new sparkys. #3 plug is aligned with the LPG feed hose over the top 0:56 that does get cold and causes condensation in surrounding area.
Thanks for the tip 👍 that rubber hose that runs over the top of the rocker cover is the lpg feed?
Pretty small chance that those threads are crossed, just because of the depth of the hole they go into. I recommend a thread chaser, which doesn't cut the threads, but it cleans the existing threads. People install spark plugs dry, then torque them up like they are head studs. I put molybdenum grease on mine, then tighten them enough to squash the pug washer and no more.
Excellent video ✔️
Thank you mate, I'll look up one of these thread chasers. 👍
You should not put any grease on spark plug before instalation, "it is wrong"drop of oil is OK and spark plugs has anti seize protection by factory.This spark plugs is Iridium Japanise good quality pre gaped 1.1 for LPG,Petrol 1.4 +0.05 or -0.05.
Thanks for the video great help for me done 5 today, Took the 6th coil out and the probe to the plug never come out finally got it will try to get the plug out tomorrow. My third had oil around it & looked like water had got in. As a retired sparky I used insulation tape to keep the extension & plug socket together. I had one of those small ratchets that take the small bits for the allen screw at the rear. My intake was mangled as well. I also put a bit of anti sieze on the spark plugs. I only have a half inch plug socket I will put an adaptor on & use a three eighth universal & bar to try and do the 6th plug tomorrow. I love the BA's bit of a design fault getting to the 6th plug.
Hey Barry, glad to see that the video was helpful. Yeah the 6th plug is harder to reach for sure, but not impossible with some yoga moves. They just had to recess the plastic cowel there ever so slightly and things would have been fine, but oh well. Best of luck with finishing her off, and thanks for your comment. That small ratchet with an allen extension would have been a time saver! 👍
G'day there, great videos actually. I really enjoy watching them. I'm interested in how I might replace the Evaporator Sensor in my car. It's been hard to find anything on TH-cam on how I might do it. I have two Ford Falcons, a BF MKII and an FG MKII. The BF has done about 300,000 kms now and the Barra is still going strong. I just drove it from Adelaide to Brisbane actually, didn't miss a beat.
A handy hint - I remove the oil cap last just before taking the black coil cover off.
When I do, I place a rag rolled up in a ball stuffed reasonably tight into the hole whilst removing the black coil cover.
Same but opposite when putting it all back together.
The last thing you want is dirt, a screw or rubber grommet from the back of the coil cover falling into the oil cap hole & ending up somewhere you can't reach it.
I also put a very thin smear of copper grease on the new plug threads.
Love your videos but not as much as my BA XR6 Ute.
Cheers
Good tip Micky - appreciate you sharing that, and for watching the vids! 👍
Good job, shame about the cross threads. Nice to see someone who is thorough and clean. Very helpful.
Appreciate you watching and for saying so 👍
Hi Eric, new subscriber to your channel. Love the Falcon vid’s. I have a 2008 E-gas BF2 sedan with just 22,000 km’s which I’ve had since new. It’s a garage Queen! 🤣. I love your laid back presenting style. Keep the Falcon vid’s coming. Btw screwing anything into alloy should have a small amount of copper anti-seize applied to avoid tears later on.
Hey Greg, thanks for your comment and for subscribing mate. I think your E-gas BF2 will be worth a pretty penny one day, considering the mileage... hold on to it 😉 and thanks for the tip about the anti-seize!
great vid mate going to attempt mine soon revs up allright but put in gear bogs down
Thanks for watching the vid mate, I hope this will come in handy when you get yours done 👍
Great vid. Just did mine still got start up probs. Will do starter but if youve had similer on your gaser. Be great to know thanx
Thanks mate, I appreciate you watching. Mine's okay start-up wise, but the starters do go often. These big Barras must be hard to turn...
U can get magnetic plug socket for deep access metric not sure on imperial pig iron use them on my corolla Iridium plugs
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out 👍
Eric, can you tell me where your temp needle sits when engine is hot, I thought mine used to sit on the mark before noon and never move, now it seems to be between that mark and noon, and sometimes it almost hits noon - probably in hot weather?
Hey Ryan, mine always sits just a smidge above the quarter mark. The needle never gets to half or past that.
The good old Ford Ba Falcon XL ute like your Videos
335,000kms and still going strong 😀👍
Yes mines improved since plugs coils. But aint right. Think starter for sure. Thanx
Thank you mate, best of luck with the starter swap and hope you will Sub - more vids to come 👍
Is that normal the rpm is not on the zero while is in idle?
I was hoping someone would come back with an answer on the sparkplug gap.
Hi Eric I did my plugs not 2months ago , and all but 2 of my coils were a prick to get out, the bottoms snapped in half , bugger of a job but good video.
Hey mate, yeah some of the plugs were so hard to remove - I was super careful, winding in and out a bit at a time, worried that I'd either snap a glug or destroy the threads in the head. I hear anti seize like copper grease helps for next time...
Hey mate
I have problem with my ford falcon when run on Lpg it back fire badly any suggestions what could be wrong
Is it because of bad spark plugs or leads ?
Hey mate, the LPG Falcons can all backfire once in a while when they start. If it does start afterwards and it runs fine don't worry about it too much. But if it's backfiring all the time and it's not running well, I'd start with plugs and leads. Another problem could be the lpg system itself. If it's never been done, take a look at the feeder mechanism located next to the coolant expansion tank inside the engine bay - it's the round metal thing sitting above the exhaust manifold. Make sure that it's not leaking anywhere and that all hoses are okay, and that all the wiring is plugged in. They can also get clogged up. Right at the bottom of that round metal unit there is a small bolt that acts as a drain plug. Loosen that to release any built up gunk and water that may be clogging the system. Finally, I'd also check the PCV system. Check that your PCV valve is plugged in, both at the top of the engine block (at the back near the firewall), and then that hose leads to under the intake manifold - make sure it's plugged in there too. Hope that helps mate, best of luck 👍
Excellent video. Thanks
Welcome mate, hope it helps you get the coils and plugs replaced.
Excellent video thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Hello mate! I’ve a territory with that engine and I’m thinking it need a new spark plugs and coils. When is in D stopped in a red light i can feel some vibration or little “dumps”. Do you think that it is not working well? What do you recommend? Thanks mate
Hey Lucas, next time you're at a red light, check your rev gauge on the dash. If it's moving up and down, you may have an ignition issue so check the plugs yes... it also may be a throttle position sensor, ignition coils, or even a vacuum leak - you won't really know till you take a look around under the bonnet. If you're not sure, take it to a local mechanic - they will probably find the cause pretty quickly. You won't have to get them to do the work if you don't want, just get them to diagnose it... If the revs are steady, the problem is somewhere else... maybe your engine mounts are ready for a change...
Next time maybe try a cordless rachet gun in low setting, maybe?
Good job👍
Thanks very much, I'll try that 👍
Old secret for removing stack spark plugs is "mixing 50% transmition oil+50% Acetone" and in 1 or two hours spark plugs will be outh easy and W40 is not good enought penetration for this job.
Thanks very much for the tip - I'm trying that next time! 👍
nice one all round mate . the trick with the paper in the socket could save a pretty frustrating time
Thanks a lot mate, I appreciate you saying so 👍
There is stuff called Silkopen that is an actual penetrating fluid. It's amazing compared to WD-40
Thanks I'll give that a try.
Spark plugs are in the cylinder head not the engine block,use anti ceez on spark threads
Good call, sorry I did miss speak... And anti seize is on order :)
Great video thanks
Most welcome mate, hope see you back and sub 👍
You should buy a territory and makes videos on that
Thanks mate, I've had a 2007 Ghia before, tossing up the idea of whether I should get a Turbo..
@@Horus_Worksdefinitely a turbo
Heaps of WD first breaker bar baby but soft hands like a surgeon plenty of anti seize on plugs no Cross threading world of pain
Yes indeed - it's a delicate operation 🧐
Am I boring? :-)
We don't have Falcon here in Europe.
Europe sucks.
I wish they still made them here. Australia stopped making cars in 2017 ☹️