Classic Mini - Mystery Engine Project Begins....
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2021
- #classicmini #teardown #asmr
Engine Number: 8G156 ES24441
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MiniMania has the best page to check out engine numbers, heads and gearboxes! A+ for sure!
Those cast heavy rockers first saw use in Austin Allegro 1275 A-series, maybe when they got the 'smog' head. Rodchange combined with rubberdoughnuts arent often found, might have been fitted to very early rodchangeboxes circa 1973
But the engine being A+ NEVER had rubber u-joints.
Someone has sold you a bunch of leftovers!!!
A real mix of parts there Cole!
A+ 1275 block & gearbox
Pre verto clutch
HS2 carb
Rubber universal joints
I do see considerable improvement in technique and assurance. And I now see how lucky I was to be rebuilding more or less running engines when I was your age. This should get interesting.....
Hard to build an engine without a project/specific end in mind. It is done a lot on other engines but I would do a bang for the buck/budget build as that's what most of us do. get to a point then ask I can do this or that and maybe do a vote?
Great Video Cole as usual ;-> How about a ClassicMiniDIY Rebuild manual? Step by step with links to your relevant videos along the way?
Nicely done. Looking forward to seeing it rebuilt. Seeing a standard(ish) rebuild would make a change.... if we want exotic, there’s always Binky.
Thank you! That's kinda the way I am leaning with it as well. Would love a standard(fast-road) 1275
@@classicminidiy definitely looks like that’s a remanufactured engine:
www.minimania.com/Engines_from_Mini_Mania
Who puts a single HS2 on a 1275 engine? I definitely haven't seen that before lol :D
Make a nice torquey fast road engine out of it, maybe 1330, SW5 cam and a big valve head would be nice!
Cole your videos are just awesome and so informative. Love watching all of them and thanks to you I have learnt so much and been able to put it into practice
And yes that is indeed a HS2 as been pointed out. But notice the backplate on said plate! Factory spec with soft rounded edge for air to entry. Will try those backplates (yes plural) on a pair of twin SU HS2's
really enjoyed the engine strip down part cole it works really well
Hi Cole, yes I much prefer the new video style and it would also be interesting to see a video on the carport to enclosed garage conversion. Glad you are staying fit and well buddy! Best wishes from Royal Berkshire 😊🇬🇧
Neat & Interesting ! Needs A Larger Enclosed Garage / Shed !
Format is great. Keep it up.
Great style of video. More please!
Very cool We are moving our mini parts as we speak. Stored for years and years.
The diapraghm being marked blue/purplish is correct for a 1275 and a good one that if in good condition works more than great on factory spec to mild tuning, say 80hp.
Cool vid Cole loved it good on ya
Nice tear down video, you’re pretty confident on the engine front now, I still think it’s a bit daunting
Thanks 👍 Yeah I have done it a few times now getting easy! :-)
Camchain tensioner was also first fitted to Allegro 1275's. Head is also from A+ 1275. Ordinary factory spec 9-stud head. That can be drilled out to 10 studs + 1bolt, if one prefer that look, not really nessesary unless 95+hp is planned.
Not really necessary unless it is a high rpm application. Running 150bhp and 9 studs just nicely 👍🏽
Could you talk about (or make a video of!) your organization when tearing down a motor? How do you keep track of what goes where and blah blah blah. Thanks!
Yes! This would be a great topic. Even a breakdown of all the parts and what's worth keeping to go back on and things you would recommend replacing.
Sure I’ll put one together for this build. 🙂
Blown headgasket or condensation? Id say serious case of both! You no doubt saved this engine in time. Pour a bottle of Coca cola in the cylinder bores, might not free up the pistons but at the cost of a can it sure is worth a try. Check for factory markings on camshaft and crank and let us know in next video, ok?
Crank should probably start with DAM something if its A+ but cant bluddy remember right now.
Great format. Keep it up.
Proper mismash that engine. 8G156E is an Austin ADO16 engine number. I suspect its likely to be the original engine number from the Austin America that this was in. That rad, and rubber UJs were standard across the ADO16, as was an electric fuel pump, hence the lack of mechanical pump. I suspect the clutch and starter is from the ADO16 also to aid fitting back into . However, that gearbox number is a later Mini rod change box. Block is definitely an A+ 1275 but its not from a Metro unless that bypass was added later by someone. Seems likely the short block and box was lifted from a later Mini and ADO16 parts were bolted on to fit it back into an Austin America.
Look like a 1275 a series due to the pre verto clutch and long clutch arm, red block and no cam follower covers is most likely 1275 but I notice the distributor clamp is like the a+ type?
1275 would be a bore and stroke of 70.6 x 81.28 and 1100 would be 64.58 x 83.72 all of the above is just info that I have gathered over the years, not sure it’s from an a35 as they are rear wheel drive, if it’s got the the 1100 crank it would be a good candidate for a stroker engine with larger shorter pistons 1460cc maybe 😀🤔
Getting the flywheel off that easy 😱 nothing wrong with that, just unusual.
Yeah the Guessworks puller I have is honestly one of my favorite tools. Makes flywheels a breeze no matter the condition.
Only unusual if your flywheel puller isn't upto the job.
Hey I have a 73 Leyland that has had a 998 A plus put in it and have a 22g1128 gearbox to rebuild just wondering if it will fit up to the 998. Thanks
I enjoyed that format 👍
Thanks Keith! :-)
That is a bit of an interesting one. Hope these observations help:
* Engine numbers starting "8G" are factory service replacement numbers and shouldn't be confused with the "8XX" series of the 850 engines.
* @04:29 that lower radiator support is not Mini.
* Engine block casting number WFM1024 = 1275 A+ with 11/16" oil filter pipe thread. Not 11 stud 'S' head.
* Fuel pump blank plate = electric fuel pump car (like ADO16 1100 / 1300 / America)
* Battery earth strap on the head = Front mounted battery on RH side of engine bay like ADO16.
* No rear tappet chest covers = Non Cooper S block aka 'solid wall block' 1275
* @11:19 that looks like an ADO16 engine mounting plate. Metros and Maestros in UK used a similar mounting plate
* Driveshaft rubber couplings were fitted to the ADO16 cars and as the diff. output flanges are the same as later Pot Joints its an easy conversion both ways. (Hardy Spicer / Auto flanges were smaller diameter)
* That CAM6232 1275 crank has a rolled fillet radius on the bearing journals to improve its fatigue life. Introduced in 1990
* Unless you damaged those rods when punching the pistons out they are perfectly usable once the gudgeon pin is pressed out.
* Heater outlet on the head is definitely ADO16.
* Single carbs were fitted to 1275 engines especially emission loaded ones.
* Rod change was easily fitted to ADO16 to replace the remote change.
Good format.
Really enjoyed that cole!
Thanks Alex! 🙂
It's been over 50 years, but in my teens I owned a couple of MG 1100's - basically Austin America's with 1098's in them - hydrolastic suspension and all.
but if I recall those both had twin SUs that had a cast unit built so they fed through a single, central air cleaner.
Wasn't there an AA with an automatic and a single carb set-up? (Be kind... it's been a long time)
i liked it mate!!!
I have an 8G180 ES2... AA engine which was in a Midget and I was told by the Owners Club circa 20 years ago, that this is how they used to restamp the Gold Seal and Silver Seal rebuilt engines. I think the number 8's meant 8.8 High Compression. I don't think AA stands for Austin America as I would imagine my engine has always been in the UK 👍
Great vid man
Ooooo... lots of nasty!! Looks like a challenging one Cole, good luck! PS Liked the format...
Thanks! Yup quite a bit of work in this one. :-)
I'd like to know about your shop equipment. The drill press, any air tools or battery tools you use, and recommendations where a name brand or non-brand (harbor freight like) would be fine. Mainly because you have a small shop and have to be space-efficient, so instead of a giant drill press taking up a whole corner, or a giant air tank and live air strung all over, what are you using and how do you manage the space.
Do an E85 conversion (high compression) to it
8 port head, KAD 16v, Specialist components?
This has the mechanical fuel pump attachment port blanked off indicating that the car had an electric fuel pump.
I was caught out years ago when I fitted a "police grind" Cooper "S" cam to an 1100 cc Mini block. At the time the Police used Cooper "S" Minis as pursuit vehicles. When it came time to install the mechanical fuel pump I noticed no resistance placing the pump in position. A check showed that the Cooper "S" camshaft does not have the lobe to drive the mechanical pump. Rather than a stripdown I decided to fit an electric pump. This then led to a further problem as the replacement electric pump had too high an output pressure causing the carburettor valve floats to not seal. The car was fiited with twin 1.25" SU carburettors. I fitted a pressure regulator to no avail. I had to then fit an expensive at the time replacement cobalt needles and valves to the floats to stop the carburettors flooding. I spent far too many hours working on BMC "A" series engines (Morris Minors, AH Sprites and Minis).
Millwalkie power tools! 😍😍😍
Get hold of a old Austin maxi 1.6 drop straight in
Really interesting video, but what was the "sick beat" that you used when the mic died - it sounded like Chali 2Na ?
Oh man glad you asked its S Strong - Slang 42 link below. I love electro/swing/rap
th-cam.com/video/ASTGempJYg4/w-d-xo.html
@@classicminidiy I’m liking it, will have to check them out !
Hello from France its a 1100 cc remplacement of clubman and special, it seems bored ?
The engine number is right for a remanufactured 1100, but the engine itself is definitely not - no tappet chest covers so I’m pretty certain it is a 1275.
A+ block, ether 1100 or 1275
It's a 1275. Most likely an SPi block as the rear fuel pump casting is blanked.
Hey Cole, I’ve got twin HS2’s on my mini and I’ve wound the jet nut to be as lean as possible. But using a colour tune spark plug I can see it’s still running rich... have you seen this before?
Hey I had this issue, swapped to twin hs2 my issue was my timing far too advanced (I had swapped it to electronic at the same time) making it seem like it was running rich. If its not that check your needle vs your engine/build in the vizard book
@@Rob1234ification Thanks Rob,
I’ve ordered a rebuild kit for the carbs so will make sure the needle is correct when I take them apart. If it is and once back on the car I’ll check the timing, did you find it difficult to set the timing advance correct?
@@henryportwood9364 Yes, I don't have the timing plate near the fan and the flywheel timing marks is what I originally set it to. Turns out that was 15 degrees out exactly for some reason
@@Rob1234ification cheers mate, 🤞🏻 it goes smoothly
Where did you acquire your fly wheel puller?
www.guess-works.com/Shop/Parts/display.htm?id=501
Keep in mind it cant be used in situ. Only works with the engine outside the car.
👍👍
Where did you get the spark plug eye bolts to lift the engine ?
Custom made by a friend of mine who is a much better welder than me 😂. Basically two spark plugs, ceramic removed and modified with looped eyelets
@@classicminidiy thanks i might have to make a set. Really smart idea.
Amazing how quickly you stripped it ahaha.
Don't wanna take all the credit, it was time-lapsed and sped up. Took me about 2.5 hours start to finish. That Milwaukee driver seriously made the tear down SO easy.
@@classicminidiy I was impressed with how easily the flywheel came off. Would you have used a wedge if the engine wasn’t seized, or is it possible to ugga dugga gun the flywheel off without a wedge if the engine wasn’t seized?
Go to John Guess, Guessworks web site and enter the engine number, and voila! You will have a description of what it is
Funny enough his website doesnt provide an option for the beginning part of this engine number: 8G156 ES24441
@@classicminidiy send him a message. John is very knowledgeable
Sure your fans the wrong way round 😂😂👍👍
bahahah so it was!
I thought the format was great.
Where did you acquire the T-shirt?
Thanks! The shirt was actually a gift from a friend. I tried to find it just now but I can't seem to find a link.
would it not have helped to put oil in the cylinders to try to loosen them up for a few days , penetrate and then try to get them out? I'm not a mechanic, its a genuine question..
Yeah it could have made the removal easier without a doubt but I already knew the cylinders were needing a bore over and I was confident I could get the crankshaft out without any damage. The rods and pistons were already damaged so I didn't care to wait since I didn't need to save them.
The aa 8g156 engine i am 99% sure was the mini clubman 1100 engine before the a+1275 came about
Where did you get it from?
Second hand from a buddy of mine here in NC.
I wish you fixed my mini I from Greenville South Carolina
What does your mini need done? If it's a job I haven't done on the channel we could discuss a feature on the channel.
Carburador and started is hard to turn on the engine
rfuentes2709@gmail. Let me know you have time to check my mini
8G points to Austin A35 van ( optional) 848cc 8G ( post 1962 all GPO.) general post office
I think 8G156E is a remanufactured engine. Apparently 1100cc.
www.retrominisltd.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=12
Worth checking exact bore/stroke to get capacity.
I think the number on the plate might be wrong. That indicates it's an 1100cc - Clubman, Special, or Austin 1100 but none of those ever had an A+ block or a rod change gearbox which is what was on this lump. I think someone mixed up the number on the engine at some point in history. It was super weird too that it had the old iron manifold with a single HS2. Never seen a 1275 with a single HS2.
@@classicminidiy Sounds pretty likely that the tag and probably the carb & inlet were taken from an old 1100 engine, and transferred onto this one at some point in its past. I had something similar with an engine I bought a few years ago - it had a tag indicating it was a basic 998 but it was actually an 11 stud 1275 engine from an Austin 1300GT, with a straight cut close ratio gearbox attached!
Never seen an 1100A+ and have recently read a great debate about it on Mk1performance forum. So far none have proven the excistense of such a 1100cc engine.
@@thatdudeinorange2297 you just put 83.8mm con rods in a 998 block and swap the crank.
Don’t think it was a standard engine, but the number suggests it’s a factory replacement, so it’s likely to be a “parts bin” engine anyway.
That’s why I said check the bore/stroke.
Why don’t you blue print the motor
What?
@@classicminidiy in other words your not a mechanic you have no idea what blue printing a motor is and your giving people, misleading advice
I feel like you think you caught me in some sort of gotcha but in reality I have never said I was a mechanic. I am an Application Developer who was trained as a diesel mechanic and worked in the field for less than a year. This isn't a secret...and its a DIY channel not an automotive shop giving lectures on working on minis.
@@classicminidiy Sorry you feel that way, the secret to being a good mechanic is to take constructive criticism and giving it serious thought and learning from it,