One possible way that the air rifle could have been made to shoot smoother, while retaining its original speed of 900+ fps, is to polish the inside of the piston tube, as well as the piston walls, with Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. You would wrap a rag or small towel around a wooden dowel, and tie it down with a string to the dowel, then apply polishing compound to the rag/towel and attach the other end of the dowel to a variable speed drill, and run that rag/towel inside the piston tube at low speed until you can run your finger on its surface and notice it to be slick to the touch, and do the same to the piston wall that contacts the piston tube, and if you feel inclined to do so, then wrap the spring itself on the rag with polishing compound and stroke the spring up and down polishing the outer surface of the spring, the area that will contact the piston walls, after all is done and well polished, clean everything very well, oil and assemble, I am sure the spring will still bounce around a little bit without a guide, but it will slide inside that piston tube much more smoothly, possibly increasing the shot speed while reducing noise and vibration at the same time.
Hi Kevin, Thank you for another great, informative, interesting video with commentary along the way. It's easy to stand behind the shoulder of someone who knows exactly what they are doing and very confident. You remind me back in the nineties. I actually stood behind one of my father's work colleagues as he instructed me how to tie flies. You then had to remember everything for when you arrived home. We obviously didn't have the luxury of Utube in those days. It's a lovely air rifle you have there. With great respect, I'm no gunsmith and would kindly ask your advice/opinion on any issue I had. I noticed with surprise, the barrel cocking pivot was a rivet. I really don't like that idea and surprised Diana didn't use the same idea as Weihaurch with a male and female threaded bolt. If, in the unlikely event that bolt/fulcrum came loose, it could easily be tightened. I noticed our own BSA used rivets on their older spring air rifles. To me, there is only one way to go, the male and female bolt, fantastic idea. Little things like that show a manufacturer is bothered, and they deserve to be ahead and front runners. Do you agree, Kevin? Best wishes, Ian.
Hi Ian! Good to see you here as always. I agree 100 % that it's the little details that set great products apart from good products. That being said, I'm not convinced that the pivot system of the 34 is a bad one. It's not really a rivet. It's a hardened steel roll pin if you will. The bolt that runs through it does, in fact, regulate the tension between the breech block and the forks. It's miles ahead of the old BSA system. Thanks as always for watching my friend.
Dear Kevin Thank you for another informative video... I always pick up a few tips. The break barrel air rifle is a masterpiece of simplicity and great fun to shoot. Kind regards
hello kevin , the most diana s do not have the square chamber end like a weihrauch ,if you seat the pellet its most not fully seated ,and the pellet is damaged at the skirt when closing the barrel , i got a crowning tool with a pilot,for airguns from triebel and make the chamber start square with the barrel , you remove at the high site some metal , the gun wil shoot better .because the skirt is fully seated
Yes, I've heard of this modification before. I wonder if seating the pellets uniformly with a small tool would accomplish the same thing. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks, Jeremy. I absolutely love those old rifles BSAs, Such classic guns. Believe me, if I ever have Chance to get my hands on one, I will pounce on it. Thanks for watching, Jeremy.
I have a Model 34 in .22 cal and I specifically selected that model for it's ability to be tuned, repaired, rebuilt etc etc and availability of parts. With some maintenance and moderate care you should be able to keep that air rifle shooting for a entire lifetime and then some. I paid about $400 plus tax for mine when I bought it. While that is at least $100 - $150 more than a comparable Gamo or other Walmart elcheapo after you completely wear one of those out you discover you would have been better buying one of these. Pay now or pay later...buy once cry once so to speak.
A fine rifle made better with excellent after market parts properly installed. I would expect this 34 would serve well for many years. Congrats and best wishes Kevin.
Thanks very much. A solidly built rifle. I'm sure that it will still be putting a smile on someone's face long after I'm gone. Thanks as always, my friend.
The shim washer under the Breech Seal also acts to displace the radial tension against the rear of the seal very much like a bearing washer to prevent stress tears when the seal is compressed. 😉👍
I noticed the piston as been lightened three holes drilled out of it , do Diana tune them that way just seems a bit odd , great result new piston seal . CHEERS 🍻
@razor1962 Going back a number of years ago, when stripping down the rifle, some thought by taking weight off the piston the less weight would be a positive 'but' from my own experience when attempting this altereation it produced to much forward force and the piston produced 'bounce' the accuracy suffered its like extremely hard rebound in the cylinder , so you must have the correct Spring power to Piston Weight . Many had to purchase new pistons to get back to square one . Liked the video and your info Cheers 🍻 👏 ✌️ 👍
When it comes to Airgun seals you have to remember that these rifles are built to a price point, and in doing so manufacturers buy their components in massive quantities. These are sourced by purchasing agents, and it's their specific job to get the best price. Unfortunately large quantities of polymers can languish, dry and harden over time, and packaged inventory can sit on the shelves for a bit too. This is all to say that Fresh, High Quality Seals will always outperform factory seals and as tuning components go the cost of those seals is rather insignificant compared to the actual tuning kits, and services. 😉 But without Fresh Seals the job is only half done... 🤷🏼♂️ None of this is the manufacturers fault, and it has always been impossible to get around. You purchase a solid format of a reliable quality and "You" personally decide how far you want to take it. 😁👍 I LOVE SPRINGERS, and I've come to accept that this just all comes with the territory ! 😌
@@razor1962I've done it a few times, too but was lucky enough to make a follow up order. If I do have to pay additional shipping... Well, that's on me... 🤷🏼♂️
I have 4 34’s. One in .177 and 3 in .22. I like the older ones from the 80’s with roll stamped engraving on the receiver whereas the newer ones are etched. All mine drive tacks and aren’t the least bit picky except they all like the smaller pellets in their respective calibers but I shoot heavier pellets as they have more downrange energy and I like shooting long range. I also have 4 model 48’s and 2 54’s. I have a hw97 and a tx200 and love all my springers. I also have pcp’s from 22-457 and lots of co2 guns like a Mac1 LD pistol and some Benjamin Co2 guns. Even a Sheridan .20 cal co2 rifle and a silver streak. A couple FWB 65’s and some Diana 5 and 6G and two P5 Magnums. Oh and 17 vintage Benjamin pistols from 1935 to the 90’s. I have a Daisy collection too and several other guns like Webley Hurricane and others. Great channel and I really enjoy watching all your reviews and rebuilds. Look forward to more!
You sir, have an enviable collection. I agree. I miss the stamped steel in comparison to the modern etched lettering. As a former gun refinisher, I can't imagine rebluing an etched gun without obliterating the etching. Thanks for watching, my friend.
@@razor1962 I was a gunsmith and I refinished and blued and did slow rust blues and nickel and hard chrome. I worked for Clark Custom Guns and though I never competed I shot more than most people that win competitions. I had a special motivation. My brother had an affair with my wife and then fled with the promise to return and kill me. My parents and a neighbor supported me in practicing for the event ( which thankfully never happened) and they bought me ammo and my neighbor cast bullets for me and taught me how to shoot thrown, rolling and practically any moving targets with 45, 22 and air gun and slingshot. I became a deadly accurate shot with anything I had in my hands. I cast 52.000 45 slugs one summer alone and shot them all at thrown tiny targets. I don't know how many bullets I made and shot but it has to be close to a million over 4 years. It's all I did. My skill got me a job at Clark Custom and I ran with it. Now I only shoot air, and I point shoot as much as I shoot by aiming and I can still hit quarter sized rocks at 25 yds so not too bad for 61.
Nice I'm taking the boiling water trick for the next time I replace a piston seal. I was wondering why didn't you replaced the piston seal the last time you had it apart.
I really enjoyed the video of replacing the piston and breach seals. At the start of the video, you mentioned that you had replaced the stock spring assembly with an aftermarket one that should give you more consistent results. Could you tell me what brand it was, and where you purchased it and the seals? I was lucky enough to purchase an ARE Diana Model 34 years ago, and I love to shoot it. I would enjoy upgrading it as I have done my Ruger 10/22's with Vulquartzen parts. Thank you, look forward to hearing from you. Dennis Barney
I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful. Air Rifle Headquarters sells everything you'll need to rebuild your 34. www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm
@steveyoung9951 Look on the Airgun forum classifieds (you may have to register 1st), or place a want ad on one or two of them. There's also this site. www.airguns.net/classifieds/classifieds.php I've had good luck there, too.
@@steveyoung9951 Glad to be of service. Just be cautious on those sites. Not everyone's on the up & up.. I try to feel folks out with a phone call. Most honest guys know their airguns and are eager to swap stories.
Hello, love your channel, I also am a Diana 34 owner and absolutely love the rifle. One question I have is about lubricating the bearing surface of the barrel and the cocking arm, I noticed you did not do that and it seems logical to do, so is that something that shouldn’t be done?
That's a pretty regular service point. I'm sure it's just not reflected in the video as Kevin's been through this particular rifle several times. Never the less lubricating the breech pivot, washers and bolt is definitely a maintenance point, along with tensioning the pivot bolt. On difficult or know rough areas I'll also come back and drip Abbey SM50 Through the forks and breech block. There's no good reason to let the pivot languish on a break barrel as you cock it with every single shot that goes through the rifle. 😉👍
As Marc already mentioned. A routine lubrication of the latch ing system and barrel pivot is definitely a good idea. You don't need much. Just a little goes a long way. Thanks for your question and thanks for watching, my friend.
I have one of these that's dated 06 06 (June, 2006). It shoots pretty consistently but there is some twang and buzz. I'm reluctant to take it apart because it works. If it works, don't fix it. I think it has a T01 or T05 trigger. How do I determine which it has and how do I tune it? Of course that brings me back to if it isn't broken, don't fix it. It looks like you put a 12ft/lb spring in it. Did you? Thank you. R, Steve
If you can tolerate the buzz, there's no reason to open it up unless you wish to install a tune kit. As far as differences between the TO1 vs. the TO6, I honestly don't know the visual differences between the two. There's some confusion on the web that makes me reluctant to speculate. Are you looking for info on tuning the rifle or the trigger? If it's the rifle, I've released a couple of videos specifically on tuning the 34. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Would you know if my model 36 RWS Dianas are the same in regards to the receiver and would take the same seals? I love them both, one has iron sights and the other is Barska 3 x 12 scoped. The ARH site doesn't show the seals for a model 36.
Actually, I don't really follow sports. I'm a hunting and fishing kind of sportsman. I will watch the Super Bowl when the Pat's are playing, though. Seems to happen a lot.😄
@@razor1962 I've been a fan since 1985, the 86 SB when Patriots were destroyed. They have improved a bit since then 😁. I'm from the UK & my ambition is to come to that beautiful part of the world you live in & watch a Patriots home game. 🏈
I acquired a Diana model 38. I've cocked it, pulled the trigger and nothing. Tried cocking it again, pulled the trigger and nothing. Tried adjusting the trigger screws and still no air released. Safety is off and does function properly. Any advice? Cylinder feels like it's holding pressure.
Hi Geoff. When you cock the rifle, do you feel the resistance of the mainspring or does it feel as though there is no resistance? If there's no resistance, your rifle is most likely already cocked but the trigger is not disengaging the sear. If on the other hand, you feel resistance each time that you cock the rifle, it sounds like your sear is not engaging and so the rifle does not stay cocked. In either one of these scenarios, the trigger system is failing to work properly. There were at least three different trigger systems employed on the model 34 over the years. Another possibility is that the mainspring has broken and is not providing any power to the piston. Unfortunately, it's very difficult to diagnose your problem without seeing the gun in person. You may want to send it off to a qualified repair facility.
Thank you very much for the advice. There is resistance. I will most likely send it to someone to be repaired. It's a very nice air rifle that I'd love to shoot!@@razor1962
I just replaced the breech seal on my model 34 and it seems like it's sticking out too far, it actually rubs when you close the barrel, did I do something wrong? I lubed it with RWS chamber lube and pushed on it fairly smartly?
Typically, those seals just pop into place. Oftentimes, there's a spacer washer that goes in beneath the seal. Perhaps your rifle doesn't need the spacer, or perhaps there ended up being two spacers rather than one. Also, double-check to be sure that you have the correct seal. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Im pretty sure that your piston seal is a leather one. Im not sure what your options are if that's the case. Try Jim Macari at Air Rifle Headquarters: www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the answer I looked at the website and they said they have the kit for the 45 but not for the old ones like the trigger metal like mine so it looks like it’s not easy to find it, thank you for your videos 👍
Thanks for sharing Kevin I’ve installed 4 kits since I started watching your videos. All 4 kits significantly upgraded my firing cycle
That's great to hear, my friend. Thanks very much.
Nice to see another job well done . It also proves that all spring guns have a better half waiting to be found .
There's definitely room for improvement on most springers. That's what makes 'em so enjoyable. Thanks as always, my friend.
It will probably get even better kevin as it bed's in.
That's my hope. I'm fairly certain that you're correct. Thanks as always, Robert.
I’m happy that I came across your TH-cam channel. I appreciate the good videos. it’s great that you put videos up often.
Thanks
Thanks very much, Jim. I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying the channel.
i love this type of videos, i learn so much
Thanks, Robin. So glad to hear that you enjoyed the video.
Just after 6am here in the UK, and what a great way to start the day.
Lovely, relaxing, enjoyable video and a cup of steaming hot tea to slurp on.
Thanks very much. I love hearing that you're enjoying the channel.
One possible way that the air rifle could have been made to shoot smoother, while retaining its original speed of 900+ fps, is to polish the inside of the piston tube, as well as the piston walls, with Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. You would wrap a rag or small towel around a wooden dowel, and tie it down with a string to the dowel, then apply polishing compound to the rag/towel and attach the other end of the dowel to a variable speed drill, and run that rag/towel inside the piston tube at low speed until you can run your finger on its surface and notice it to be slick to the touch, and do the same to the piston wall that contacts the piston tube, and if you feel inclined to do so, then wrap the spring itself on the rag with polishing compound and stroke the spring up and down polishing the outer surface of the spring, the area that will contact the piston walls, after all is done and well polished, clean everything very well, oil and assemble, I am sure the spring will still bounce around a little bit without a guide, but it will slide inside that piston tube much more smoothly, possibly increasing the shot speed while reducing noise and vibration at the same time.
The polishing job could be done also on top of the upgrade, possibly keeping the original speed the rifle had, or maybe surpassing it.
Thanks for the input, my friend.
Perhaps, maybe next time.
Good show!
Thanks, Robert.
Thank you for having a channel that you actually learned something from
Thanks, Frank. I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying the channel.
Great, Thank you master 😊🌹
So happy to know that you enjoyed the video. Thanks so much for watching, my friend.
Hi Kevin,
Thank you for another great, informative, interesting video with commentary along the way. It's easy to stand behind the shoulder of someone who knows exactly what they are doing and very confident.
You remind me back in the nineties. I actually stood behind one of my father's work colleagues as he instructed me how to tie flies. You then had to remember everything for when you arrived home. We obviously didn't have the luxury of Utube in those days.
It's a lovely air rifle you have there. With great respect, I'm no gunsmith and would kindly ask your advice/opinion on any issue I had.
I noticed with surprise, the barrel cocking pivot was a rivet. I really don't like that idea and surprised Diana didn't use the same idea as Weihaurch with a male and female threaded bolt. If, in the unlikely event that bolt/fulcrum came loose, it could easily be tightened.
I noticed our own BSA used rivets on their older spring air rifles. To me, there is only one way to go, the male and female bolt, fantastic idea. Little things like that show a manufacturer is bothered, and they deserve to be ahead and front runners.
Do you agree, Kevin?
Best wishes, Ian.
Hi Ian! Good to see you here as always. I agree 100 % that it's the little details that set great products apart from good products. That being said, I'm not convinced that the pivot system of the 34 is a bad one. It's not really a rivet. It's a hardened steel roll pin if you will. The bolt that runs through it does, in fact, regulate the tension between the breech block and the forks. It's miles ahead of the old BSA system.
Thanks as always for watching my friend.
Dear Kevin
Thank you for another informative video... I always pick up a few tips.
The break barrel air rifle is a masterpiece of simplicity and great fun to shoot.
Kind regards
Truer words have never been spoken Tony. Thanks as always, my friend
hello kevin , the most diana s do not have the square chamber end like a weihrauch ,if you seat the pellet its most not fully seated ,and the pellet is damaged at the skirt when closing the barrel , i got a crowning tool with a pilot,for airguns from triebel and make the chamber start square with the barrel , you remove at the high site some metal , the gun wil shoot better .because the skirt is fully seated
Yes, I've heard of this modification before. I wonder if seating the pellets uniformly with a small tool would accomplish the same thing.
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
It even sounds better on the cocking stroke and upon firing a soft "tink". Very good job, Kevin! Great instructional video as well. ScottinPa.
Good ears, Scott. She's a dream rifle now. Thanks as always, my friend.
I do like the slim profile this gun has yet has more than enough power to dispatch pest or long range plinking.
Another really good video Kevin well done thanks Kevin
Thanks David. I sincerely appreciate your viewership.
Great video!
i have a 1921 standard bsa no2 bore ,5.6mm get you self one you wont regret it, iron sights at 60 yards,its great
Thanks, Jeremy. I absolutely love those old rifles BSAs, Such classic guns. Believe me, if I ever have Chance to get my hands on one, I will pounce on it. Thanks for watching, Jeremy.
Fantastic video, I’ve learned so much from your strip down and reassemble videos, I’m going to have a go at a Beeman R2 that twangs really badly 😎
That's great! So glad to hear that you're enjoying the channel. Best of luck with your project.
Nice job
Thank you very much.
I have a Model 34 in .22 cal and I specifically selected that model for it's ability to be tuned, repaired, rebuilt etc etc and availability of parts. With some maintenance and moderate care you should be able to keep that air rifle shooting for a entire lifetime and then some. I paid about $400 plus tax for mine when I bought it. While that is at least $100 - $150 more than a comparable Gamo or other Walmart elcheapo after you completely wear one of those out you discover you would have been better buying one of these. Pay now or pay later...buy once cry once so to speak.
Quality lasts..... nuff said...
Thanks for watching, my friend.
Hi Kevin, another great informative video. Thanks for the time and teaching.
Thanks so much, John. Always a pleasure, my friend.
Super nice, thank you for sharing 🙂👍
Thanks very much, my friend.
A fine rifle made better with excellent after market parts properly installed. I would expect this 34 would serve well for many years. Congrats and best wishes Kevin.
Thanks very much. A solidly built rifle. I'm sure that it will still be putting a smile on someone's face long after I'm gone. Thanks as always, my friend.
We keep watching these tear downs we all be experts like you 😎👍🏻
I'm no expert Peter. Far from it, but I certainly enjoy tearing into these guns. Thanks as always, my friend.
@@razor1962 Well Kevin you are modest , we are learning from you and that is what TH-cam is about my friend .
What is the weight of the brass hammer you use ? Ty
The shim washer under the Breech Seal also acts to displace the radial tension against the rear of the seal very much like a bearing washer to prevent stress tears when the seal is compressed. 😉👍
That makes sense. Thanks, Marc. Your knowledge of these things is priceless.
@@razor1962 I'm easily dazzled by the simplicity... 😮 These are clever folk !
Hi Kevin!
Hi there, Nibs. Watched a few of your vids today. Enjoyed them.
I noticed the piston as been lightened three holes drilled out of it , do Diana tune them that way just seems a bit odd , great result new piston seal . CHEERS 🍻
Hi Neil, That's the way the piston is made. Not sure if it's for weight reduction or not. Your guess is as good as mine.
Thanks as always, my friend.
@razor1962 Going back a number of years ago, when stripping down the rifle, some thought by taking weight off the piston the less weight would be a positive 'but' from my own experience when attempting this altereation it produced to much forward force and the piston produced 'bounce' the accuracy suffered its like extremely hard rebound in the cylinder , so you must have the correct Spring power to Piston Weight .
Many had to purchase new pistons to get back to square one . Liked the video and your info Cheers 🍻 👏 ✌️ 👍
@razor1962 You are more then welcome , keep up the great info 👍
When it comes to Airgun seals you have to remember that these rifles are built to a price point, and in doing so manufacturers buy their components in massive quantities. These are sourced by purchasing agents, and it's their specific job to get the best price. Unfortunately large quantities of polymers can languish, dry and harden over time, and packaged inventory can sit on the shelves for a bit too.
This is all to say that Fresh, High Quality Seals will always outperform factory seals and as tuning components go the cost of those seals is rather insignificant compared to the actual tuning kits, and services. 😉
But without Fresh Seals the job is only half done... 🤷🏼♂️
None of this is the manufacturers fault, and it has always been impossible to get around. You purchase a solid format of a reliable quality and "You" personally decide how far you want to take it. 😁👍
I LOVE SPRINGERS, and I've come to accept that this just all comes with the territory ! 😌
I don't know why I didn't order the seals the 1st time around. Brain fart I suppose.
@@razor1962I've done it a few times, too but was lucky enough to make a follow up order. If I do have to pay additional shipping... Well, that's on me... 🤷🏼♂️
I have 4 34’s. One in .177 and 3 in .22. I like the older ones from the 80’s with roll stamped engraving on the receiver whereas the newer ones are etched. All mine drive tacks and aren’t the least bit picky except they all like the smaller pellets in their respective calibers but I shoot heavier pellets as they have more downrange energy and I like shooting long range. I also have 4 model 48’s and 2 54’s. I have a hw97 and a tx200 and love all my springers. I also have pcp’s from 22-457 and lots of co2 guns like a Mac1 LD pistol and some Benjamin Co2 guns. Even a Sheridan .20 cal co2 rifle and a silver streak. A couple FWB 65’s and some Diana 5 and 6G and two P5 Magnums. Oh and 17 vintage Benjamin pistols from 1935 to the 90’s. I have a Daisy collection too and several other guns like Webley Hurricane and others. Great channel and I really enjoy watching all your reviews and rebuilds. Look forward to more!
You sir, have an enviable collection.
I agree. I miss the stamped steel in comparison to the modern etched lettering. As a former gun refinisher, I can't imagine rebluing an etched gun without obliterating the etching.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
@@razor1962 I was a gunsmith and I refinished and blued and did slow rust blues and nickel and hard chrome. I worked for Clark Custom Guns and though I never competed I shot more than most people that win competitions. I had a special motivation. My brother had an affair with my wife and then fled with the promise to return and kill me. My parents and a neighbor supported me in practicing for the event ( which thankfully never happened) and they bought me ammo and my neighbor cast bullets for me and taught me how to shoot thrown, rolling and practically any moving targets with 45, 22 and air gun and slingshot. I became a deadly accurate shot with anything I had in my hands. I cast 52.000 45 slugs one summer alone and shot them all at thrown tiny targets. I don't know how many bullets I made and shot but it has to be close to a million over 4 years. It's all I did. My skill got me a job at Clark Custom and I ran with it. Now I only shoot air, and I point shoot as much as I shoot by aiming and I can still hit quarter sized rocks at 25 yds so not too bad for 61.
Nice I'm taking the boiling water trick for the next time I replace a piston seal.
I was wondering why didn't you replaced the piston seal the last time you had it apart.
Brain fart...I have no idea how I neglected to order a seal.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
I really enjoyed the video of replacing the piston and breach seals. At the start of the video, you mentioned that you had replaced the stock spring assembly with an aftermarket one that should give you more consistent results. Could you tell me what brand it was, and where you purchased it and the seals? I was lucky enough to purchase an ARE Diana Model 34 years ago, and I love to shoot it. I would enjoy upgrading it as I have done my Ruger 10/22's with Vulquartzen parts.
Thank you, look forward to hearing from you.
Dennis Barney
I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful.
Air Rifle Headquarters sells everything you'll need to rebuild your 34.
www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm
Now i need to find a fixer upper rifle so i can do an overhaul now.
There's lots of 34s out there. Recommend holding out for a TO6 version. Thanks for watching, Steve.
@@razor1962 Thank you, would you know a good place to look? I'm in California
@steveyoung9951 Look on the Airgun forum classifieds (you may have to register 1st), or place a want ad on one or two of them. There's also this site.
www.airguns.net/classifieds/classifieds.php
I've had good luck there, too.
@@razor1962 Thank you
@@steveyoung9951 Glad to be of service. Just be cautious on those sites. Not everyone's on the up & up..
I try to feel folks out with a phone call. Most honest guys know their airguns and are eager to swap stories.
Hello, could you show us your "bell" sometime? Is it really a bell, or another piece of metal like a section of tubing? Thanks, R, Steve
Covered that for you, Steve, in another videos comments.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
Hello, love your channel, I also am a Diana 34 owner and absolutely love the rifle. One question I have is about lubricating the bearing surface of the barrel and the cocking arm, I noticed you did not do that and it seems logical to do, so is that something that shouldn’t be done?
That's a pretty regular service point. I'm sure it's just not reflected in the video as Kevin's been through this particular rifle several times. Never the less lubricating the breech pivot, washers and bolt is definitely a maintenance point, along with tensioning the pivot bolt. On difficult or know rough areas I'll also come back and drip Abbey SM50 Through the forks and breech block. There's no good reason to let the pivot languish on a break barrel as you cock it with every single shot that goes through the rifle. 😉👍
As Marc already mentioned. A routine lubrication of the latch ing system and barrel pivot is definitely a good idea. You don't need much. Just a little goes a long way.
Thanks for your question and thanks for watching, my friend.
I have one of these that's dated 06 06 (June, 2006). It shoots pretty consistently but there is some twang and buzz. I'm reluctant to take it apart because it works. If it works, don't fix it. I think it has a T01 or T05 trigger. How do I determine which it has and how do I tune it? Of course that brings me back to if it isn't broken, don't fix it. It looks like you put a 12ft/lb spring in it. Did you? Thank you. R, Steve
If you can tolerate the buzz, there's no reason to open it up unless you wish to install a tune kit. As far as differences between the TO1 vs. the TO6, I honestly don't know the visual differences between the two. There's some confusion on the web that makes me reluctant to speculate.
Are you looking for info on tuning the rifle or the trigger? If it's the rifle, I've released a couple of videos specifically on tuning the 34.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
@@razor1962 It performs pretty well I just don't like the buzz. R, Steve
Would you know if my model 36 RWS Dianas are the same in regards to the receiver and would take the same seals?
I love them both, one has iron sights and the other is Barska 3 x 12 scoped. The ARH site doesn't show the seals for a model 36.
Best to measure your old seal and then consult with Jim at ARH.
Important question, are you Patriots fan?
Actually, I don't really follow sports. I'm a hunting and fishing kind of sportsman. I will watch the Super Bowl when the Pat's are playing, though. Seems to happen a lot.😄
@@razor1962
I've been a fan since 1985, the 86 SB when Patriots were destroyed. They have improved a bit since then 😁. I'm from the UK & my ambition is to come to that beautiful part of the world you live in & watch a Patriots home game. 🏈
I acquired a Diana model 38. I've cocked it, pulled the trigger and nothing. Tried cocking it again, pulled the trigger and nothing. Tried adjusting the trigger screws and still no air released. Safety is off and does function properly. Any advice? Cylinder feels like it's holding pressure.
Hi Geoff. When you cock the rifle, do you feel the resistance of the mainspring or does it feel as though there is no resistance?
If there's no resistance, your rifle is most likely already cocked but the trigger is not disengaging the sear.
If on the other hand, you feel resistance each time that you cock the rifle, it sounds like your sear is not engaging and so the rifle does not stay cocked. In either one of these scenarios, the trigger system is failing to work properly. There were at least three different trigger systems employed on the model 34 over the years. Another possibility is that the mainspring has broken and is not providing any power to the piston. Unfortunately, it's very difficult to diagnose your problem without seeing the gun in person.
You may want to send it off to a qualified repair facility.
Thank you very much for the advice. There is resistance. I will most likely send it to someone to be repaired. It's a very nice air rifle that I'd love to shoot!@@razor1962
I just replaced the breech seal on my model 34 and it seems like it's sticking out too far, it actually rubs when you close the barrel, did I do something wrong? I lubed it with RWS chamber lube and pushed on it fairly smartly?
Typically, those seals just pop into place.
Oftentimes, there's a spacer washer that goes in beneath the seal. Perhaps your rifle doesn't need the spacer, or perhaps there ended up being two spacers rather than one.
Also, double-check to be sure that you have the correct seal.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
Hi 👋, i have a Diana 45 , year 83 do you know where I can get the Tun up kit, thank you 🙏🏻 😊
Im pretty sure that your piston seal is a leather one. Im not sure what your options are if that's the case. Try Jim Macari at Air Rifle Headquarters:
www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the answer I looked at the website and they said they have the kit for the 45 but not for the old ones like the trigger metal like mine so it looks like it’s not easy to find it, thank you for your videos 👍
Grilletto in plastiche
Yes. Unfortunately, the trigger is indeed made of plastic. However, the trigger is quite crisp and pleasant.
@@razor1962 scusa ma non capisco il gruppo scatto e to 5