I didn’t know really anything about the Diana 34 I bought around the year 2008 except that it was German made, beautiful blueing, decent trigger, and accurate out of the box. Then I found your channel and I discovered “tuning kits.” I took a deep dive into this disassembly video and then bought the high output spring kit from ARH, and the Air Ventauri spring compressor tool from Pyramyd Air… and today I finally got around to installing the tune kit. Disassembly/reassembly and firing testing was a success. My 34 doesn’t have the spring twang and it cocks quieter and smoothly. Awesome. Thanks so much for making this great tutorial. If I could “like” and “subscribe” a thousand times I would.
That's awesome news! So thrilled to hear that you were able to put the video to good use. A gun kit like Jim's will completely transform a rifle. Enjoy, my friend.
I have an RWS 34 I bought around 20 years ago when I was in college. Probably have put only 600 or less pellets through it the entire time. Thanks for posting a very informative series on this sweet pellet gun.
Nice, when I get a true "springer" the first thing I do is shim the spring guides with aluminum from a pop can and grease the spring. It takes out the "twang" and improves the cocking sound. Inevitably it will slightly reduce the FPS, but.. it will improve the consistency greatly. And as our German friends have taught us, accuracy doesn't come from power, it comes from consistency, even as low as 6fpe.
Dear Kevin I enjoyed your video and always learn something...like A E Housman said...all knowledge is precious. I think you have turned a good gun into an excellent one... I doubt you will notice the drop in power and now you have a sweet shooting well mannered gun which is a pleasure to use. Kind regards
You're absolutely correct, Tony. She's a very well mannered rifle now. I'm not finished quite yet. The gun needed a reseal and I forgot to order the parts so keep an eye out for another video. Thanks so much for watching, my friend.
FACT ! 😉👍 I force myself to try ALL Maker's kits for the sake of objectivity. 🤷🏼♂️ That being said, it would not be unusual for me to pull those kits eventually and put an ARH Kit in... 😉 Objectivity merely keeps me honest in my own opinions, but in the end I know exactly how I expect a fine Springer to perform. Not a fan boy. I'm just single minded and selfish about my Springers ! 😁
@@marcmyers1465 Unfortunately, the term "fan boy" comes with negative connotations, but being a fan of ARH products breaks that rule because they are superb quality every time. There are quality kits available from other makers, but as you stated, my rifles all end up with ARH kits or springs. Best wishes Marc.
@@thelvadam8916 Jim Maccari refined Spring making to an Art Form MANY years ago ! 😉👌 He "IS" The Spring Man and I shoot "Springers". Just Seemed like the guy to Trust... 😏 Never EVER had a single problem with any ARH Product ! 😁👍 I Honestly can't say that about other makers... 😥 EXPERIENCE is absolutely Everything when it comes to Tune Kits. Sadly... Shiny, Trendy Gimmicks just don't always work, and nobody likes dealing with the outcome. 🙄
Hi Kevin! Think the smooth kit with 12,5 fps is a very good kit for that rifle. It is not a heavy weight rifle, guess type HW50 weight, and it is much easier to shoot and cock than with the high output spring. It has still enough power for small game hunting. Think also you made by accident the right choice 😁 Great job as always, Cheers!
I think you're right, Ron. She's a sweet shooter now. I'll be revisiting this rifle in another video in a couple of weeks. Thanks as always, my friend.
@@razor1962 Every model springer has it's own optimal power and accuracy balance. Those things are tested by the tuning kit producers. In my opinion the ARH kit you just installed will have the optimal Power/accuracy balace for your 34. Much more power will affect accuracy, especially in .177cal. I feel sorry for the guys in those countries with the very low power restrictions like Germany with the 5,5 fps/7,5 joule restriction. Is just a disgrace for the quality German brands. Cheers!
They have always been outstanding rifles, but DO become hold sensitive at higher power levels, very likely due to the chassis weight as you pointed out. At 12 FPE they're absolute Gravy ! 😃👍 At Sub 12 the weight and handling lends itself to Extremely Articulate shooting with Proper Glass. 😉 The format falls right into the same power to weight parameters as the Venerable FWB 124 and HW50S but it's not at all unusual to find Fine Olde Diana Mod. 34's second hand for an Exceptional $$$.$$ Value !!! 😃
Been waiting on this one. 😃 Glad you pointed out tucking that seal to avoid cutting it on the metal work. 😉👍 I Really like the ARH kits. Jim's kits have always impressed me, and his ordering process is always Spot On. 👍 Jim always tends to build his kits for the Best Performance "Within the Reasonable Limits of Good Taste" ! No point in building a barn burner that's rough as a Cobb... 😖 Well Done ! 😉👍 Yeah... I'd probably replace the seals as well, Jim's piston seals are pretty much the Best hands down. 👌 I've actually torn a gun down a second time and replaced a brand new seal, because it just didn't have that smooth ARH stroke... 🤷🏼♂️ The ARH Kits have just spoiled me over the course of a few decades. 😌
Thanks Mark. It was nagging at me so I went ahead and ordered the seals. The video is scheduled for a couple of weeks from now. Was able to tighten up that spread a noticeable amount. Thanks as always, my friend.
@@razor1962 I think the Lock Time on that Smooth Kit is Brilliant ! 😁 Short & Sweet... 😉👍 Was wondering about the production date on that 34 ? 🤔 I'd try to talk you out of it, but I think I'd hold on to that one...😏 Is there an insignia on the grip cap ?
@Marc Myers Hi Marc. It's dated 02 04 so it's not quite a decade old. There's a sticker on the grip cap with the number 1 written on it. Bought it on GunBroker so it's probably just the seller's way of identifying it. I'm gonna start looking for a 34 TO6 in .22 This one's a TO5 and the trigger isn't as nice as the one in the TO6.
Nice job it certainly sounds smoother. I enjoy your videos and tutorials on replacement of springs and seals etc and the comparison that you do, they are very informative, thank you for doing them. Cheers from Australia
Thanks for watching, my friend. Curious as to how the piston can be removed without having to remove the barrel on this model. Thanks again, my friend.
@@razor1962 Remove the clip in the center of the cocking arm pin at the front lower part of the breech block, push the pin out and remove the cocking arm from the breechblock-the built in shoe can then be removed from the spring cylinder slot. Use caution-the E-clip likes to jump off into space when removed from the cocking arm pin.
@Thel Vadam I should've been able to guess that that disconnecting the cocking arm was how you do it. I've always removed the barrel. I'll see what's involved in disconnecting the arm in the future on various rifles. Those "e" clips are notorious for taking flight. Thanks for the tip!
Yessir, this time, my error worked out pretty well. I'll take it! It's certainly a sweet shooter now. Silky smooth and lightning fast. Thanks as always, Scott
As a side note-ARH kits are built tight, and may take a full 1000 rounds or more to break in and achieve maximum accuracy and velocity. In fact, I no longer apply heavy tar to the kits I install in my own rifles. Rather, I apply a light coat of moly paste to the spring, guide and piston seal and start shooting. that way there is no velocity loss from the heavy tar, and virtually zero vibration. Your kit will get better with use. Best wishes Kevin.
I tend to get a bit agitated with the Forum EggSpurts that install a new kit and immediately start complaining about a loss in Velocity and Power... 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️ Properly sized guides, and yes fresh lubes simply have to wear into "Their" particular rifle. 🤷🏼♂️ There's no way of getting around that ! 🙄 Grab a few tins of pellets and Git To It ! 😉 Rarely if ever do any of these adolescent hotshots come back later and apologize or correct their posts. Apparently a Boy's pride is Far More Important than Running Down a Seasoned Professional ? 🤨 Same goes for a lame comparison between Moly Impregnated or proper Urethane Piston Seals. Of course a Moly seal has little or no break in period, and is quicker out of the gate. Then again you don't have to REPLACE a Fine Urethane seal 3 to 6 months later when your extreme spread is all over the map ! Moly seals are nothing new, but there's a Very Good Reason they never made it past the test phase all those years ago... 😅
@@marcmyers1465 Agreed Marc-I have found ARH kits to be so tight that they simply don't require heavy tar-I just use some moly to keep things slick and break it in. With factory guides I will use heavy tar because as I am certain you are aware the springs fit loosely and that is the excessive vibration source. I don't claim to be an expert, but I do have enough experience with certain platforms to be fully confident in my approach.
Thanks for another great video. Could you someday do one on making a spring compressor or just going over how yours was built? Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Thanks so much. I very pleased to hear that you're enjoying the channel. It would be nearly impossible to build a spring vise like mine without a welder and a way to cut and fabricate using heavy gauge steel. I could un-bolt it from the bench and take some photos for you, but it wouldn't be of use to many people to make a video about it. I know you'll understand. Thanks again for watching, my friend.
I believe the piston seal may be way too tight for that compression tube. That may be why your velocity is lower than expected and could explain your high extreme spread. Just my two cents. Thanks for this video!
Actually, I had forgotten to order a new piston seal when I put the video together. It was still running the old seal. There's another video on the way where I'll be installing new seals. Thanks for watching, my friend.
You can pretty much spot a tight Piston Seal on the way in. Ask any Woman how that works... 😂 It was actually a combination of Two Seals. 😉👍 FTR: I Personally avoid reusing ANY Diana piston seal (W/exception to Fine Leather seals) unless I know for certain they are Fresh seals... 😌 Diana makes their seals to perform at a Maximum level of performance. They tend to be More rigid and Less pliable than what some might consider to be a "Select" Quality of Urethane, and often get cuts and occasionally just burn up under extreme loads. 🤷🏼♂️ Never... Ever ! Scrimp on seals. It will always come full circle and bite you directly in the Arse ! 😖 When a Diana Piston Seal burns up 🔥 "You WILL know It" ! 😕 Cuts are more difficult to spot. 🤔 WTTW: Always deburr your metal work anytime you take a Springer down, and Always tuck your seals on the way back in. 😉
Hi Peter. My brother made that compressor for me back in the eighties. Any plans that may have existed were in his head and long forgotten by now. I'm afraid that it's a one-off. Thanks as always, my friend.
@@rapalaron6348 I use to have a picture around here of a factory FWB 124 spring embedded half way into the drywall ! 🙀🙀 That could have ended worse depending on where you're standing ? 😏 But my Wife DID buy me one Helluva Spring Compressor ! 😃👍 I'm Not built like Mighty Mouse 💪 any more... 🤷🏼♂️
@@marcmyers1465 Hi Marc! Yeah very dangerous. I made one from a long heavy duty steel glue clamp use to glue table blades with. i made it so that the rifle is fixed firm between so it cant jump out. I won't get any presents from my wife anymore because she's still angry on me because i forgot her birthday last year 😅😅To punish me she bought a rubbish hunting knife at a gas station somewhere with pink handle and pink leather sheath. That knife she put in my display cabin between my expensive German hand made Puma knifes and she told me it should stay there until her next birthday so i won't forget. Can you imagine Marc, that pink crap between stag, messing, nickel silver and fine wood ? That will be NOT in my display cabin i told her and from today i don't do birthdays at all any more 🤣🤣🤣 No problems with that, i can spoil myself so now and then....., and that's exactly what i did. A brand new Air Arms S410 walnut, one more HW97K, a HW35 all with AirMax scopes and a .22 PCP pistol with Hawke red dot. Should have quit with birthdays a long long time ago 😆😆😆
The cocking sounded much smoother too. Having learned my lesson with a "magnum" .177 Beeman R10 the ate springs as a snack, I'll take a smooth shooting rilfe over a 100 fps more any day. That includes for hunting. I do have a question about Maccari springs though. I have heard (20+ year old information) that they take a set and do not require a compressor when disassembling after the initial installation. Have you found that to be true? I installed one in my R10 a few years ago, and want to go back and replace the factory guide and perhaps seal when I get back to WV this year. I also hope to tackle my late father's RWS 48 and try to tame that absurd beast a bit with a smoother spring.
I can't really answer your question as I haven't had to remove an ARH spring from a rifle other than this model 34. There's another video on the way where I take this gun down again to replace the seals that I forgot to order. I didn't notice any set in the spring but it had only been installed for a week or so. Thanks as always, my friend.
@@thelvadam8916 Yup ! 😉👍 You also need to be mindful when watching rebuild videos on TH-cam, about "Where" geographically the content provider is located ! I've seen many Fine videos rebuilding 7.5 and Sub 12 rifles that might mislead a viewer working on an F.A.C. rifle... With what could ultimately be Perilous Results ! 😖
@@thelvadam8916 I think I'll do that just to be safe. Mine seemed to have plenty of preload and after replacement shot slightly higher velocity than the original spring had.
Hey Kevin, love your vids on the Diana Mod 34. Trying to reassemble mine now after new piston and breech seal and having helluva tiime getting the two pins thru the trigger assembly in the receiver. The holes appear to be obstructed by the safety bar. I finally got the pins through the trigger assembly in the receiver, but it's not staying cocked when I release hold of the barrel - it just springs back like the receiver isn't holding on to the cocked spring. Any suggestions? I am at my wit's end and am wearing out my wife's last nerve.
What screw goes in the front of the trigger guard? I just discovered that the airgunsmith who replaced my spring 10-12 years ago, stripped the head and I need to have a replacement before I break mine down.
Hi William. Are there any good threads left on the bolt? If so, you can measure the threads with a thread gauge and buy the proper size at a hardware store. If you're looking to buy a replacement, original bolt, you'd have to try an Ebay search or a parts supplier. I imagine that you'd have better luck finding through a European parts supplier. twchambers.co.uk/airgun-spares/ spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk/ Hope this was helpful. Thanks for watching.
I would be disappointed if I lost 3 foot pounds on a UK spec gun but I always wondered how much more recoil there is and I one more accurate the another, UK spec vs USA spec?
Hi Mick. A 12 ft lb gun will almost always shoot smother and be easier to shoot accurately than the same gun with several ft lbs more power. This rifle responded very well to being tuned down, and I did it by mistake. 🤣 thanks as always my friend.
12 FPE All the way, Mick ! 🇬🇧 U.K. Specs just made you lot better marksmen... 😉👍 You can still go F.A.C. if you think it's necessary, it just Rarely is. 🤷🏼♂️ We have plenty of guys with F.A.C. rifles over here that can't hit the broad side of a Barn ! 🙄 It ain't what you got... It's "What you DO" with what you got. 😉👍
@@marcmyers1465 well I'm into 10m target rifle and pistol, they only push out just under 6ft pound and obviously are as accurate as is possible.....(well obviously depends on the shooter😜) I would be great to compare a UK spec 12ft pound to American..... say 18ft pound springer over a couple of distances. PS. I'm applying for my FAC, what a long long long process, 3 months and I still haven't had my home visit, anyway I don't think I'd bother with an FAC air rifle, really limited to where it can be shot, most target clubs cater for 10m target air rifles and 22 rim fire. My club won't allow FAC air, the ballistic curtains are are not rated for them, chance of bounce back and I would never hunt, so shooting animals is, a big no for me.
@@mickchaganis6607 Even many experienced competitive shooters would be Well Served by Honest 10M training, Mick. 😉👍 I've seen F.T. shooters purchase an FWB 300S, and start 10M training, only to Finally start placing "In The Money" after years of just hanging in there with their peers. 😃 That Heavy Rifle teaches you the mechanics of how to solidly lock up your form, and the lower velocity teaches you the smooth Arc of Critical Flight. 🤨 Pellets DO NOT BLAST straight through like high powered bullets ! They FLY through that tiny, little hole like an arrow 💘 The Arc of flight is that brief moment of peace in my day that just lasts forever... 😌
And I have a question for you regarding your T05 trigger (I think I read in the comments here your rifle was manufactured in 2004, so I think it has the T05 trigger but I could be mistaken)… have you tried tightening the trigger adjustment screw all the way down, and then loosen the adjustment screw by one and 7/8ths turns? I ask because I didn’t notice a distinct second stage in your 34 .177 videos. If you loosen the trigger adjustment screw by one and 3/4’s turns you should have a very noticeable second stage and a very light final stage.
Thanks. I actually took that very rifle out for a spin just last night. I brought a slender screwdriver to the bench with me. I noticed that the adjustment screw. ( Yes, TO5 trigger, BTW) was tightened all of the way down. I backed ut out a couple of turns and tried it. No second stage. From there, I gradually tightened the screw in small increments until there was a solid wall at the 2nd stage.This made the trigger much better and with less pressure on the trigger required to fire the rifle. Thanks for watching, my friend.
@@razor1962that's awesome! I found a post on some airgun forum talking about the T05 trigger and how to adjust it and one guy mentioned just turning it until you feel the second stage become distinct and adjust tighter or looser to your preference. I've seen posts saying that it doesn't adjust the weight of the pull but it changes the pivot point for the trigger release which makes it feel lighter.
I haven't got a Heanel 303, but I'll tell you what, Paul... The first chance that I have to pick up a 303, I'll be certain to feature it in a few videos. I'm always in the market for higher quality springers. Thanks as always, my friend.
The diana 350 magnum makes that same noise! Makes it feel as if the cylinder itself is banging on the end of the chamber. Horrible sound. I guess I need a tuning kit myself. That's definitely a big change. Make me wonder what exactly is the cause of it in the first place.
Typically, the buzzing sound is due (mainly) to a lose fitting spring guide. If the guide doesn't fit tightly into the spring, you'll often times experience some buzz. One easy fix is a liberal application of spring tar, which is available from Air Rifle Headquarters. However, it's not really a fix. It does improve the smoothness of the shot, but it does rob you of some power, particularly in colder weather. I use it often. It makes it more enjoyable for me to have a smoother shot experience.
Question for you mate , in another video you put a tiny amount of moly grease on a rag and lubed the inside compression tube ? What are your thoughts on this? When I did my 34 I did it dry and when I cocked it it was honking, I re did it with a tiny tiny amount if moly spread inside the cylinder, no more honking when cocking it ?
A lot of people believe that a highly polished compression chamber is desirable. I learned from a good friend and a spring gun guru. His advice is to very lightly scuff the inner walls of the compression chamber and follow by thoroughly cleaning to remove any metal dust. Then, burnish the bore with a sparing amount of moly. The "honking" is typically caused by the piston seal chattering as it drags backwards on the cocking stroke. A small amount of moly, even without the burnishing it will cure the issue. Hope this was helpful.
@@razor1962 I had moly on the rear of the piston which I polished with a dremel tool and put some on the front of the piston and around the piston seal but it was honking on the cocking stroke, then I did like you did on the 34 video, put a tiny amount spread inside the chamber and I do mean tiny and now it's smooth as silk
A lot of air gunners are way to fixed on power. Me once too! I totally changed my mind about that. Accuracy and easy handling is more important than fps. 12,5 fps is perfect for this rifle and more than enough to shoot squirrels, birds and bunnies with a headshot and good for any kind of plinking. A high power spring will make this rather light Diana kick like a mule and more difficult to shoot accurate with. I put a Titan XS in one of my .177 HW97's and after 10 shots i'd already regret it. I don't accept a group more than max. one inch on 25 meteres from any quality springer, than i can better buy a 1200fps GAMO.
I didn’t know really anything about the Diana 34 I bought around the year 2008 except that it was German made, beautiful blueing, decent trigger, and accurate out of the box. Then I found your channel and I discovered “tuning kits.” I took a deep dive into this disassembly video and then bought the high output spring kit from ARH, and the Air Ventauri spring compressor tool from Pyramyd Air… and today I finally got around to installing the tune kit. Disassembly/reassembly and firing testing was a success. My 34 doesn’t have the spring twang and it cocks quieter and smoothly. Awesome. Thanks so much for making this great tutorial. If I could “like” and “subscribe” a thousand times I would.
That's awesome news! So thrilled to hear that you were able to put the video to good use. A gun kit like Jim's will completely transform a rifle. Enjoy, my friend.
I have an RWS 34 I bought around 20 years ago when I was in college. Probably have put only 600 or less pellets through it the entire time. Thanks for posting a very informative series on this sweet pellet gun.
Thanks so much. That 34 is a wonderful rifle. It deserves to be put to use. Get out there and enjoy yourself. Dr's orders...😷
Nice, when I get a true "springer" the first thing I do is shim the spring guides with aluminum from a pop can and grease the spring. It takes out the "twang" and improves the cocking sound. Inevitably it will slightly reduce the FPS, but.. it will improve the consistency greatly. And as our German friends have taught us, accuracy doesn't come from power, it comes from consistency, even as low as 6fpe.
Absolutely. A gun is only as good as it shoots. Thanks for watching, Frank.
A noticeable difference on the spring noise for sure. Thanks for the great instructional walkthrough!
Thank you Nick and thanks for watching, my friend.
@@razor1962 i texted you yesterday kevin i have an update tune for the 46 model regards steve
Dear Kevin
I enjoyed your video and always learn something...like A E Housman said...all knowledge is precious. I think you have turned a good gun into an excellent one... I doubt you will notice the drop in power and now you have a sweet shooting well mannered gun which is a pleasure to use.
Kind regards
You're absolutely correct, Tony. She's a very well mannered rifle now. I'm not finished quite yet. The gun needed a reseal and I forgot to order the parts so keep an eye out for another video. Thanks so much for watching, my friend.
A charm to see this toutorial. ❤
Thank you, my friend.
Very nice. You can't go wrong with ARH kits. Jim Maccari makes the finest mainsprings on the planet. Best wishes.
Thanks very much. Definitely a quality product. Made a huge difference. Thanks as always my friend.
FACT ! 😉👍 I force myself to try ALL Maker's kits for the sake of objectivity. 🤷🏼♂️ That being said, it would not be unusual for me to pull those kits eventually and put an ARH Kit in... 😉 Objectivity merely keeps me honest in my own opinions, but in the end I know exactly how I expect a fine Springer to perform. Not a fan boy. I'm just single minded and selfish about my Springers ! 😁
@@marcmyers1465 Unfortunately, the term "fan boy" comes with negative connotations, but being a fan of ARH products breaks that rule because they are superb quality every time. There are quality kits available from other makers, but as you stated, my rifles all end up with ARH kits or springs. Best wishes Marc.
@@thelvadam8916 Jim Maccari refined Spring making to an Art Form MANY years ago ! 😉👌 He "IS" The Spring Man and I shoot "Springers". Just Seemed like the guy to Trust... 😏
Never EVER had a single problem with any ARH Product ! 😁👍
I Honestly can't say that about other makers... 😥
EXPERIENCE is absolutely Everything when it comes to Tune Kits. Sadly... Shiny, Trendy Gimmicks just don't always work, and nobody likes dealing with the outcome. 🙄
another great video 👍
Thanks for sharing.
I appreciate your honesty about ordering the seal and soft kit.
Thank you, my friend.
Made an excellent rifle even better top job as always my friend.
Thanks Robert and thanks for watching, my friend.
Hi Kevin! Think the smooth kit with 12,5 fps is a very good kit for that rifle. It is not a heavy weight rifle, guess type HW50 weight, and it is much easier to shoot and cock than with the high output spring. It has still enough power for small game hunting. Think also you made by accident the right choice 😁 Great job as always, Cheers!
I think you're right, Ron. She's a sweet shooter now. I'll be revisiting this rifle in another video in a couple of weeks. Thanks as always, my friend.
@@razor1962 Every model springer has it's own optimal power and accuracy balance. Those things are tested by the tuning kit producers. In my opinion the ARH kit you just installed will have the optimal Power/accuracy balace for your 34. Much more power will affect accuracy, especially in .177cal. I feel sorry for the guys in those countries with the very low power restrictions like Germany with the 5,5 fps/7,5 joule restriction. Is just a disgrace for the quality German brands. Cheers!
They have always been outstanding rifles, but DO become hold sensitive at higher power levels, very likely due to the chassis weight as you pointed out. At 12 FPE they're absolute Gravy ! 😃👍 At Sub 12 the weight and handling lends itself to Extremely Articulate shooting with Proper Glass. 😉 The format falls right into the same power to weight parameters as the Venerable FWB 124 and HW50S but it's not at all unusual to find Fine Olde Diana Mod. 34's second hand for an Exceptional $$$.$$ Value !!! 😃
Been waiting on this one. 😃 Glad you pointed out tucking that seal to avoid cutting it on the metal work. 😉👍
I Really like the ARH kits. Jim's kits have always impressed me, and his ordering process is always Spot On. 👍
Jim always tends to build his kits for the Best Performance "Within the Reasonable Limits of Good Taste" ! No point in building a barn burner that's rough as a Cobb... 😖
Well Done ! 😉👍
Yeah... I'd probably replace the seals as well, Jim's piston seals are pretty much the Best hands down. 👌 I've actually torn a gun down a second time and replaced a brand new seal, because it just didn't have that smooth ARH stroke... 🤷🏼♂️ The ARH Kits have just spoiled me over the course of a few decades. 😌
Thanks Mark. It was nagging at me so I went ahead and ordered the seals. The video is scheduled for a couple of weeks from now. Was able to tighten up that spread a noticeable amount. Thanks as always, my friend.
@@razor1962 I think the Lock Time on that Smooth Kit is Brilliant ! 😁 Short & Sweet... 😉👍
Was wondering about the production date on that 34 ? 🤔 I'd try to talk you out of it, but I think I'd hold on to that one...😏 Is there an insignia on the grip cap ?
@Marc Myers
Hi Marc. It's dated 02 04 so it's not quite a decade old. There's a sticker on the grip cap with the number 1 written on it. Bought it on GunBroker so it's probably just the seller's way of identifying it.
I'm gonna start looking for a 34 TO6 in .22 This one's a TO5 and the trigger isn't as nice as the one in the TO6.
Nice job it certainly sounds smoother. I enjoy your videos and tutorials on replacement of springs and seals etc and the comparison that you do, they are very informative, thank you for doing them.
Cheers from Australia
Thanks Wayne. Comments like yours are what makes producing these videos worthwhile. I sincerely appreciate your viewership, my friend.
I Definitely noticed how smoothly, and "Quietly" that rifle cocked after the rebuild. 😉
Wonderful video like I was expecting it but you don't need to take of the barrel to take out the piston. Nice spring compressor! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, my friend. Curious as to how the piston can be removed without having to remove the barrel on this model. Thanks again, my friend.
@@razor1962 Remove the clip in the center of the cocking arm pin at the front lower part of the breech block, push the pin out and remove the cocking arm from the breechblock-the built in shoe can then be removed from the spring cylinder slot. Use caution-the E-clip likes to jump off into space when removed from the cocking arm pin.
@Thel Vadam I should've been able to guess that that disconnecting the cocking arm was how you do it. I've always removed the barrel. I'll see what's involved in disconnecting the arm in the future on various rifles. Those "e" clips are notorious for taking flight. Thanks for the tip!
@@razor1962 I'm always halfway through the build before I remember the pin... 😬 But I like to check and butter the breech pivot any way. 🤷🏼♂️
850 fps is quite sufficient and the piston seal can be replaced again later. Great job!!
Agreed. Although it wasn't my original plan, I'm quite pleased with the results. Thanks so much for watching, my friend.
As always a great review, and the gun will settle down with time.
Thanks Iwan. Always a pleasure my friend.
It sounds wonderful. A very nice tune install.
Thanks very much and thanks for watching, my friend.
Kevin, Even the cocking stroke sounded better as did the lock up. 850ish for a 177 caliber pellet is perfect in my book. Good job! ScottinPa.
The sear engagement had a Very Nice, Click ! Gotta love that quiet cocking stroke. 😉
Yessir, this time, my error worked out pretty well. I'll take it! It's certainly a sweet shooter now. Silky smooth and lightning fast.
Thanks as always, Scott
Really enjoy these videos Marc keep it up pal!! Have a great week as well!!
Thanks Scott. My name is Kevin though...just to clarify.
Always good to watch ! Thanks Kevin.
Thanks as always, David. I sincerely appreciate your viewership.
As a side note-ARH kits are built tight, and may take a full 1000 rounds or more to break in and achieve maximum accuracy and velocity. In fact, I no longer apply heavy tar to the kits I install in my own rifles. Rather, I apply a light coat of moly paste to the spring, guide and piston seal and start shooting. that way there is no velocity loss from the heavy tar, and virtually zero vibration. Your kit will get better with use. Best wishes Kevin.
Thanks for this. I'll keep it in mind for next time.
I tend to get a bit agitated with the Forum EggSpurts that install a new kit and immediately start complaining about a loss in Velocity and Power... 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
Properly sized guides, and yes fresh lubes simply have to wear into "Their" particular rifle. 🤷🏼♂️ There's no way of getting around that ! 🙄 Grab a few tins of pellets and Git To It ! 😉
Rarely if ever do any of these adolescent hotshots come back later and apologize or correct their posts. Apparently a Boy's pride is Far More Important than Running Down a Seasoned Professional ? 🤨
Same goes for a lame comparison between Moly Impregnated or proper Urethane Piston Seals. Of course a Moly seal has little or no break in period, and is quicker out of the gate. Then again you don't have to REPLACE a Fine Urethane seal 3 to 6 months later when your extreme spread is all over the map ! Moly seals are nothing new, but there's a Very Good Reason they never made it past the test phase all those years ago... 😅
@@marcmyers1465 Agreed Marc-I have found ARH kits to be so tight that they simply don't require heavy tar-I just use some moly to keep things slick and break it in. With factory guides I will use heavy tar because as I am certain you are aware the springs fit loosely and that is the excessive vibration source. I don't claim to be an expert, but I do have enough experience with certain platforms to be fully confident in my approach.
ps. Macari makes a great spring for the fwb300 … 😉
Good to know as I'll be restoring my 300s one of these days. Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching my friend.
Thanks for another great video. Could you someday do one on making a spring compressor or just going over how yours was built? Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Thanks so much. I very pleased to hear that you're enjoying the channel.
It would be nearly impossible to build a spring vise like mine without a welder and a way to cut and fabricate using heavy gauge steel.
I could un-bolt it from the bench and take some photos for you, but it wouldn't be of use to many people to make a video about it. I know you'll understand.
Thanks again for watching, my friend.
I believe the piston seal may be way too tight for that compression tube. That may be why your velocity is lower than expected and could explain your high extreme spread. Just my two cents. Thanks for this video!
Actually, I had forgotten to order a new piston seal when I put the video together. It was still running the old seal. There's another video on the way where I'll be installing new seals. Thanks for watching, my friend.
You can pretty much spot a tight Piston Seal on the way in. Ask any Woman how that works... 😂
It was actually a combination of Two Seals. 😉👍
FTR: I Personally avoid reusing ANY Diana piston seal (W/exception to Fine Leather seals) unless I know for certain they are Fresh seals... 😌
Diana makes their seals to perform at a Maximum level of performance. They tend to be More rigid and Less pliable than what some might consider to be a "Select" Quality of Urethane, and often get cuts and occasionally just burn up under extreme loads. 🤷🏼♂️
Never... Ever ! Scrimp on seals. It will always come full circle and bite you directly in the Arse ! 😖
When a Diana Piston Seal burns up 🔥 "You WILL know It" ! 😕 Cuts are more difficult to spot. 🤔
WTTW: Always deburr your metal work anytime you take a Springer down, and Always tuck your seals on the way back in. 😉
I was going to say (WTTW: Always deburr your metal work)
Good job .
Thanks very much.
😉👍
Nice to have the spring compression tool , vital to this kind of work. Is the link in your description for the parts ? Thank you Kevin.
Hi Peter. My brother made that compressor for me back in the eighties. Any plans that may have existed were in his head and long forgotten by now. I'm afraid that it's a one-off. Thanks as always, my friend.
@@razor1962 I did a search for one nothing as nice as the one you’re brother made and very little out there offered .
Yeah i agree an absolute must if you care about your eyes and windows. So much easier to work with springers.
@@rapalaron6348 I use to have a picture around here of a factory FWB 124 spring embedded half way into the drywall ! 🙀🙀 That could have ended worse depending on where you're standing ? 😏 But my Wife DID buy me one Helluva Spring Compressor ! 😃👍
I'm Not built like Mighty Mouse 💪 any more... 🤷🏼♂️
@@marcmyers1465 Hi Marc! Yeah very dangerous. I made one from a long heavy duty steel glue clamp use to glue table blades with. i made it so that the rifle is fixed firm between so it cant jump out.
I won't get any presents from my wife anymore because she's still angry on me because i forgot her birthday last year 😅😅To punish me she bought a rubbish hunting knife at a gas station somewhere with pink handle and pink leather sheath. That knife she put in my display cabin between my expensive German hand made Puma knifes and she told me it should stay there until her next birthday so i won't forget. Can you imagine Marc, that pink crap between stag, messing, nickel silver and fine wood ? That will be NOT in my display cabin i told her and from today i don't do birthdays at all any more 🤣🤣🤣 No problems with that, i can spoil myself so now and then....., and that's exactly what i did. A brand new Air Arms S410 walnut, one more HW97K, a HW35 all with AirMax scopes and a .22 PCP pistol with Hawke red dot. Should have quit with birthdays a long long time ago 😆😆😆
The cocking sounded much smoother too. Having learned my lesson with a "magnum" .177 Beeman R10 the ate springs as a snack, I'll take a smooth shooting rilfe over a 100 fps more any day. That includes for hunting.
I do have a question about Maccari springs though. I have heard (20+ year old information) that they take a set and do not require a compressor when disassembling after the initial installation. Have you found that to be true? I installed one in my R10 a few years ago, and want to go back and replace the factory guide and perhaps seal when I get back to WV this year. I also hope to tackle my late father's RWS 48 and try to tame that absurd beast a bit with a smoother spring.
I can't really answer your question as I haven't had to remove an ARH spring from a rifle other than this model 34. There's another video on the way where I take this gun down again to replace the seals that I forgot to order. I didn't notice any set in the spring but it had only been installed for a week or so.
Thanks as always, my friend.
It depends upon the kit whether the spring is designed with considerable preload. I would suggest using a spring compressor with any kit.
@@thelvadam8916 Yup ! 😉👍
You also need to be mindful when watching rebuild videos on TH-cam, about "Where" geographically the content provider is located ! I've seen many Fine videos rebuilding 7.5 and Sub 12 rifles that might mislead a viewer working on an F.A.C. rifle... With what could ultimately be Perilous Results ! 😖
@@razor1962 Thanks for the reply. I'll watch for that future video to see what happens, but I guess I had better just use a compressor to be sure.
@@thelvadam8916 I think I'll do that just to be safe. Mine seemed to have plenty of preload and after replacement shot slightly higher velocity than the original spring had.
Great job
Thanks John!!!
I have this rifle and will be doing a rebuild. What moly grease do you use ? Again, I sure enjoy your videos.
I use ARH moly. Good stuff.
Thanks so much for watching.
@@razor1962 Ordered some today. Thanks
@@airgunnersc9335 Also goes well with Biscotti & Coffee, but sometimes it's best just to take a break and wash Y'er hands... 🤷🏼♂️
Hey Kevin, love your vids on the Diana Mod 34. Trying to reassemble mine now after new piston and breech seal and having helluva tiime getting the two pins thru the trigger assembly in the receiver. The holes appear to be obstructed by the safety bar. I finally got the pins through the trigger assembly in the receiver, but it's not staying cocked when I release hold of the barrel - it just springs back like the receiver isn't holding on to the cocked spring. Any suggestions? I am at my wit's end and am wearing out my wife's last nerve.
Does your trigger group look exactly like the one in the video?
And are you using some sort of spring compressor?
What screw goes in the front of the trigger guard? I just discovered that the airgunsmith who replaced my spring 10-12 years ago, stripped the head and I need to have a replacement before I break mine down.
Hi William. Are there any good threads left on the bolt? If so, you can measure the threads with a thread gauge and buy the proper size at a hardware store. If you're looking to buy a replacement, original bolt, you'd have to try an Ebay search or a parts supplier. I imagine that you'd have better luck finding through a European parts supplier.
twchambers.co.uk/airgun-spares/
spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk/
Hope this was helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Very nice job on the Diana 34. I think that the 12.5 fpe will be much nicer to cock and shoot and plenty of energy for a bunny or squirrel 🙂👍.
My thought exactly. Thanks as always my friend.
World Class Skwerl 🐿️🐿️🐿️ rifle ! 😃👍
I would be disappointed if I lost 3 foot pounds on a UK spec gun but I always wondered how much more recoil there is and I one more accurate the another, UK spec vs USA spec?
Hi Mick. A 12 ft lb gun will almost always shoot smother and be easier to shoot accurately than the same gun with several ft lbs more power. This rifle responded very well to being tuned down, and I did it by mistake. 🤣 thanks as always my friend.
@@razor1962 haha with each adversity comes the seed of greater good 🤪
12 FPE All the way, Mick ! 🇬🇧 U.K. Specs just made you lot better marksmen... 😉👍 You can still go F.A.C. if you think it's necessary, it just Rarely is. 🤷🏼♂️ We have plenty of guys with F.A.C. rifles over here that can't hit the broad side of a Barn ! 🙄
It ain't what you got... It's "What you DO" with what you got. 😉👍
@@marcmyers1465 well I'm into 10m target rifle and pistol, they only push out just under 6ft pound and obviously are as accurate as is possible.....(well obviously depends on the shooter😜)
I would be great to compare a UK spec 12ft pound to American..... say 18ft pound springer over a couple of distances.
PS. I'm applying for my FAC, what a long long long process, 3 months and I still haven't had my home visit, anyway I don't think I'd bother with an FAC air rifle, really limited to where it can be shot, most target clubs cater for 10m target air rifles and 22 rim fire. My club won't allow FAC air, the ballistic curtains are are not rated for them, chance of bounce back and I would never hunt, so shooting animals is, a big no for me.
@@mickchaganis6607 Even many experienced competitive shooters would be Well Served by Honest 10M training, Mick. 😉👍
I've seen F.T. shooters purchase an FWB 300S, and start 10M training, only to Finally start placing "In The Money" after years of just hanging in there with their peers. 😃 That Heavy Rifle teaches you the mechanics of how to solidly lock up your form, and the lower velocity teaches you the smooth Arc of Critical Flight. 🤨
Pellets DO NOT BLAST straight through like high powered bullets ! They FLY through that tiny, little hole like an arrow 💘
The Arc of flight is that brief moment of peace in my day that just lasts forever... 😌
And I have a question for you regarding your T05 trigger (I think I read in the comments here your rifle was manufactured in 2004, so I think it has the T05 trigger but I could be mistaken)… have you tried tightening the trigger adjustment screw all the way down, and then loosen the adjustment screw by one and 7/8ths turns? I ask because I didn’t notice a distinct second stage in your 34 .177 videos.
If you loosen the trigger adjustment screw by one and 3/4’s turns you should have a very noticeable second stage and a very light final stage.
Thanks. I actually took that very rifle out for a spin just last night. I brought a slender screwdriver to the bench with me. I noticed that the adjustment screw. ( Yes, TO5 trigger, BTW) was tightened all of the way down. I backed ut out a couple of turns and tried it. No second stage. From there, I gradually tightened the screw in small increments until there was a solid wall at the 2nd stage.This made the trigger much better and with less pressure on the trigger required to fire the rifle.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
@@razor1962that's awesome! I found a post on some airgun forum talking about the T05 trigger and how to adjust it and one guy mentioned just turning it until you feel the second stage become distinct and adjust tighter or looser to your preference. I've seen posts saying that it doesn't adjust the weight of the pull but it changes the pivot point for the trigger release which makes it feel lighter.
Have you done the Heanel 303 air rifle if not can you do it for me
I haven't got a Heanel 303, but I'll tell you what, Paul... The first chance that I have to pick up a 303, I'll be certain to feature it in a few videos. I'm always in the market for higher quality springers. Thanks as always, my friend.
The diana 350 magnum makes that same noise! Makes it feel as if the cylinder itself is banging on the end of the chamber. Horrible sound. I guess I need a tuning kit myself. That's definitely a big change. Make me wonder what exactly is the cause of it in the first place.
Typically, the buzzing sound is due (mainly) to a lose fitting spring guide. If the guide doesn't fit tightly into the spring, you'll often times experience some buzz. One easy fix is a liberal application of spring tar, which is available from Air Rifle Headquarters. However, it's not really a fix. It does improve the smoothness of the shot, but it does rob you of some power, particularly in colder weather. I use it often. It makes it more enjoyable for me to have a smoother shot experience.
@@razor1962 Thanks. I'll have to try your fix at some point
Have you tried this kit for a Diana 46 underlever?
I have not. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Question for you mate , in another video you put a tiny amount of moly grease on a rag and lubed the inside compression tube ? What are your thoughts on this? When I did my 34 I did it dry and when I cocked it it was honking, I re did it with a tiny tiny amount if moly spread inside the cylinder, no more honking when cocking it ?
A lot of people believe that a highly polished compression chamber is desirable. I learned from a good friend and a spring gun guru. His advice is to very lightly scuff the inner walls of the compression chamber and follow by thoroughly cleaning to remove any metal dust. Then, burnish the bore with a sparing amount of moly.
The "honking" is typically caused by the piston seal chattering as it drags backwards on the cocking stroke. A small amount of moly, even without the burnishing it will cure the issue.
Hope this was helpful.
@@razor1962 I had moly on the rear of the piston which I polished with a dremel tool and put some on the front of the piston and around the piston seal but it was honking on the cocking stroke, then I did like you did on the 34 video, put a tiny amount spread inside the chamber and I do mean tiny and now it's smooth as silk
Awesome, Peter. So glad to hear that it worked out well.
Thanks as always, my friend.
@@razor1962 your videos have been very helpful, thank you
not impressed with the numbers. I'll take the twang.
The twang doesn’t bother me either but the guy repairing and tearing down the air rifle does impress me .
Yeah, Jim offers a full power kit as well so you get the best of both worlds. Full power and zero twang.
Thanks so much for watching my friend.
Well... You can actually hit a target 🎯 with a Chronograph, but you have to be standing pretty much right next to it ! 😉
A lot of air gunners are way to fixed on power. Me once too! I totally changed my mind about that. Accuracy and easy handling is more important than fps. 12,5 fps is perfect for this rifle and more than enough to shoot squirrels, birds and bunnies with a headshot and good for any kind of plinking. A high power spring will make this rather light Diana kick like a mule and more difficult to shoot accurate with. I put a Titan XS in one of my .177 HW97's and after 10 shots i'd already regret it. I don't accept a group more than max. one inch on 25 meteres from any quality springer, than i can better buy a 1200fps GAMO.
Good work, totaly diferent ¡¡¡
Thanks very much, my friend.