Upgrading Ender 3 PTFE tube and couplings - Quick and easy!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2018
- Many have found that the factory PTFE bowden tube and fittings are sloppy and cause extrusion problems. Mine weren’t too bad but since this is quick and easy mod, I raided my spare parts and completed the upgrade. I have ordered Capricorn parts, but as always in Australia things take forever to arrive.
For an Ender 3, you need approximately 50cm of PTFE tube, 1 x PC4-M6 and 1 x PC4 x M10 couplings.
Tevo Tornado is 2 x PC4 x M10.
Capricorn tubes website: www.captubes.com/index.html
Capricorn Tubing (plenty of spares of each of these after fitting to the printer):
1m XS PTFE tube on Amazon ($14.50): amzn.to/2wsV2lR
PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 connectors (10 of each for $14): amzn.to/2ykFykM
If your circles are not round and belt tension doesn’t fix it: 3dhobbyist.com/circles-have-m...
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#3dprinting #ender3 #upgrades
I noticed that my PTFE tubing was slipping out about 4mm when retraction was occurring since I have owned the Ender3. This is the perfect mod for me, and I am hoping this corrects the over-extrusion I am seeing at the Z seam and other places where retraction occurs. Also, I have to say this is my favorite channel for 3d printing and have used many of your guides for my Ender. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for this. Very helpful. When reassembling, I found leaving the nozzle loose in the hotend until after installing the tube and coupler worked for getting things nice and tight.
I just received an Ender 3, and the Bowden fittings were both so loose, the PTFE tubing came out as soon as filament started feeding.
Thanks for the review. I’ll be ordering these right away
I subscribed to you channel because your video is quick, straight to the point and your close shot of parts made everything clear to me. I wish I would have watched your video before watching the ''official'' for my ender3v2.
Thank you
So many great Ender 3 videos, thank you so much. Just fantastic for a printing novice.
Man You helped me out so much. At the 46 second mark you answered both of my questions and solved the problems that I was searching for. I have only been 3D printing for about a Month and have a bunch of stuff to learn. So I searched fo, 1. What is the Line or hose that the filament feeds into called? Answer... Bowden Tube. and 2. How do the connector ends on the Bowden tube function? I had filament that was actually stuck inside the Bowden Tube and I could not pull it out even using pliers. What had happened was, I was trying to print my first Model on my new Longer LK1 Large Platform 3D Printer. The nozzle got clogged up somehow and the Automatic Filament Feeder "Cog" or Gear" had too much tension on it and badly scarred the side of the filament so bad that it wouldnt come all the way out, either by Automatic or manually. My only option was to replace the Bowden vTube and Ends or learn how the Bowden Tube Fittings actually work. I worked on Radars for 38 years and when I can't figure out how something works, it kinda drives me crazy. The tip that you gave on how to push the sleeve of the connector in worked in 2 seconds and my problem was solved. In fact I have spent probably 100 times more time making this comment than it took me to fix my problem, of course thanks to your knowledge and instruction. I am the type of person that likes to give credit to people like yourself that take the time to make you videos and get us newbies straightened out!!!! So a great big THANK YOU "TEACHING TECH". You picked your channel name wisley and Iwill sub and return to learn more. Your'e a Good Man!!!!
This problem took me ages to figure out after it occurred 2 weeks into using the printer. Print quality progressively got worse every day until I upgraded to an aluminium extruder and replaced the tube and both couplers as you did and this made a huge difference. This along with new bed leveling springs have the best improvements. Nice video wish I saw earlier 😁
Thanks mate, glad you got it sorted.
u saved my 3D printer from being thrown out the window thanks
For anyone attempting this mod, make sure you get PC4-M10 fittings, not PC6-M10 fittings. I was dumb enough to not look at the product before I bought it so I'm out another 8 dollars. The PC6-M10 fittings are for larger PTFE tubing that fits 2.85mm filament.
I've updated the description, thanks for posting.
@@TeachingTech hi i have ender 3x what to i need to print higher temperature like abs peta nylon currently it goes to 110c hotbed temperature can u send me link.
@@TeachingTech didn"t read the description, ordered wrong one. A sticker in the video would be nice...
And this is why I read the comments, thanks!
@@TeachingTech is there a thicker tube with 1.75mm diameter? like 8mm OD and 1.75mm ID?
I’ve not had any issues with the stock couplings. The mod I did was to print an oversized Bowden tube clip (130%) and it seems to jam the Bowden tube clamps nice and tight.
Was just thinking I should do exactly this to the CR-10. It seams that every time I think of doing something, you publish a video on how to do it. Spooky lol
Fantastic info as always, concise and to the point. The BL Touch is working perfectly on the CR-10 4S thanks to your previous videos.
I'm currently tuning the extrusion multiplier, yep, following your tutorial on that too.
Awesome! I love to hear of these success stories.
Thanks for the guide! Saved my printer
Got my Ender 3 the other week and assembled it last week. It prints beautiful straight out of the "box" so to say. The couplings are holding on to the tube extremely hard and i haven't experienced any issues with it apart from that the drivegear on the extruder motor came loose. Just make sure those 2 screws are tightened enough so it can't start slipping.
Sounds like the QC s getting better all of the time.
Hi Michael, yes I was having under Extrusion problems with my Ender, first I replaced the plastic extruder parts with metal ones and that didn't fix it, then I replaced the couplers and PTFE tube and it prints perfectly now.
Good to hear Jim.
Okay, so I have an ender 5 plus, (same fitting) and it LOOKS like a tiny bit of the end of the ptfe Bowden tube BROKE off down inside the fitting! Driving me nuts to figure it out, but your video showing down into the fitting (1:10) and seeing metal really helped.
My Ender 3 (non pro) arrived yesterday. Just assembled today 15 months after this video and can confirm the fittings are just as bad... New ones on order. That said however, the prints are still amazing
I replaced the extruder to a metal one. I also have some movement in the m6 fitting but it isnt a big problem. I will cange the tube in the next week or so just to make it perfect
I was generally getting good prints with my stock setup. The changes I made to the slicing and belt tension did more than this upgrade, although others seem to have it way worse.
Thanks for the video! Four days and three printing runs in and the M6 fitting has already failed.
I do indeed have issues with the stock fittings on my ender, extruder side much more than hot end side,... I noticed in your video that your bowden tube was jumping in and out a couple mm at a time, I assume during retraction,... I have that exact same issue at the moment. I just need to wait on some metal tooth fittings and hopefully thatll make at least one issue disappear haha
Cheers on all the great content and video, you are always a main source of information from the days before I bought my ender3!
I print a lot at 1.0mm as well as 0.4mm. When I replace a nozzle I also re-seat my Capricorn tube. Each time I do the following (while the nozzle in hot, so be careful): pull the filament out of the nozzle/hot end, pull the tube a few cm away from the nozzle, remove the old nozzle, install and tighten the new nozzle so it's snug, back it off 1/8 turn, then press the tube against the nozzle, and lastly fully tighten the nozzle. I haven't had a clog due to leakage (as shown at 2:48 in the video) since I started doing this. Great videos, I really appreciate the time and effort you put into them.
Thanks for sharing. I actually recently made a video on this process. It is very worthwhile.
Any assembly/disassembly with a hot nozzle is necessary only in case of all metal hotends. We need full contact between a nozzle and a heat break and due to higher thermal expansion of a heater block we have to tighten at high temperature.
Nice, i think I will go this route as well 👍
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Hi just had the extruder end bowden tube come out of the fitting on my cr10-max overnight, started to print full size Terminator t800 think i need to upgrade to these.They should be metal on plastic not plastic on plastic.Didnt waste much fililment but still enjoying the learning curve.Thanks for you vids beyond helpful.thanks David NZ
I had trouble and it was more due to the extruder skipping. I did see the tube move in and out, but I had level issues.
I have indeed ordered and just received my Capricorn tubing and a pack of fittings. 10 each. Amazon.
I also ordered the aluminum extruder upgrade. I did find after doing some more research, that the stock plactis arm was lossing up cause there was no sleeve/bearing on the screw for the arm. so I got the nice red one from amazon. Will update you on the results.
Thank you.
Sounds like a good way forward.
I probably got the same problem. From one print to another the infill was too low... Now I dismounted the coupling and I saw that the coupling on the extruder is also totally uptight. Now I will order new couplings and a new PTFE tube. I really hope it will solve the problem. Thanks for the video!
Good news. Everything is working like new. Thank you very much for this video.
Great vid I'll be sharing. I botched the extruder end up with super glue. Nothing to lose if you're planning on swapping out the coupler anyway. And a zip tie in the hot end. I'll get a set of couplers in the near future. I have had to reseat the got end a few times and I haven't wanted to risk gumming up the hot end with the super glue on the coupler
I did the same ,super glue made things very tight and stable
Very very few problems after that
I just replaced my hot-end coupling and so far crossed fingers it has cured my under extrusion problems, however only time and more printing will tell.
I found upping the extrusion width for solid infill had the most impact, maybe give it a try?
Also HIGHLY suggest taking the hot end OFF the carriage before doing any of this. While tightening mine the M3 bolt stripped out of the carriage stand off and I had to change the 20mm long to a 25 and add some washers. This is held on very poorly so take the hot end off just to be safe.
Good advice, thank you.
couplers and white ptfe tube are fine on my Geeetech a10M, but i have ordered some blue ptfe just to match the blue V slot covers on my A10M
I just replaced the bowden tube on my Ender 3... I had similar issues with the tube not seating correctly in the hot-end. I did not replace the fitting since I previously upgraded it but it took several attempts to get the bowden tube to seat properly... Very frustrating. Eventually worked everything out and my prints look amazing so far.
Yep, my pneumatic fittings had a big gap i could move it in an out with. It wouldn't let me remove it, but had a good space ti wiggle with.
I had no extruder connector included in my 3d printer and I had to use duck tape for 2 months until this video pop up on my fyp thank you so much
I am waiting for my delivery of the Capricorn tubing. Fingers crossed it sorts out most of my issues.
Please post back if it does.
Well, did it?
and what issues? Just waiting on my 3-pro
did it work please
You can cut the tube with anything. If the tube get a bit crushed you can jam the Allen key that came with the printer down the hole of the tube.
My Ender 3 was from a recent batch - Zero issues with the boden setup except my extruder gear keeps riding up the shaft of the stepper motor - Even after tightening. This is over about 300 grams of material though.
My ender3 also shipped with one spare fitting. I assume as a "just in case" due to feedback. It was appreciated!
Glad to hear they are tightening things up. When you tighten the filament drive gear, are you making sure that one set screw is facing the ft of the stepper motor output? If so and you still have issues, maybe some loctite would help?
Mine also shipped with a spare.
I suspect from the factory it may not have been on the notched area- However when I tightened it the second time I confirmed this. So far it hasn't popped up - But if it does I'll print an extruder "wheel" that seems to be popular which should help. At bare minimum when it falls off It'll be an indicator of when the extruder gear is riding up.
The PTFE tube from my ender3 v2 started to come off from the extruder side a few weeks ago... notices that no filament was coming out from the nozzle when figure out the source of the issue... I confirmed that the extruder fitting part (the pneumatic joint) had no teeths to grab the tube anymore... lucky me the ender came with an extra part and the issue was fix but now I'm glad I ordered the metal extruder that comes with a new fitting part..
Many thanks for your channel. I recently purchased an Ender 3 and quickly became familiar with replacing nozzles (plugged). I quickly went through the 2 nozzles that came with the printer. I ordered a variety pack of nozzles along with the Capricorn tube/fittings. While re-assembling the tube/fittings, for giggles I ran the acupuncture needle through one of the brand new nozzles and discovered I could not run the needle through the nozzle, grabbed another new nozzle and didn't have any resistance, tried a few more and had some nozzles that presented no resistance, and some that have quite a bit of resistance (which is the correct amount of resistance? no idea). Any recommendations on a manufacturer that maintains quality control of their nozzles?
My Crapicorn tube just arrived, missing the cutter... I might give it a go without cutting, since the end seems to be very flush (so the part I cut will be on the feeding assembly end)
I've been with under-extrusion for a couple of weeks now, to a point that I cannot print any more, hopefully, doing this will get it all sorted, if not better than was before the problem started! :)
I haven't touched the fittings since first assembly and they are still firm.
The ideal scenario!
Lucky
Speaking of PTFE tube upgrades, have you had a look at adding an extended PTFE tube inside the MK3 hotend?, The original 50mm one leaves a sizeable gap between the bondtechs and the end of the tube, if you cut one to ≈53mm and give one end a pointed tip you can get the tube super close to the gears without rubbing giving you a minute gap, was one of my first (and pretty much only) modification for the mk3, allowing it to print flexibles at and above 60mm/s (I have cranked it upto 120mm but that just gave me anxiety 😆)
That sounds like an effective mod. The Flexion has that type of arrangement. I'm hesitant to mod my MK3. To use a car analogy, it's like my daily driver to keep stock and reliable so I can go crazy with other weekend cars. I also have a Cocoon Create Touch modified for the sole purpose of printing flexibles.
The stock creality pc4 fittings have metal teeth(at least my year older Ender does anyway) in them like your replacements do, I know because I disassembled one..The hypothesis that these cause slipping isn't borne out by the evidence. The do slipperier but not because plastic teeth.
Fyi my stock ender 3 hot end coupler came with metal teeth and seems to be much better than what was originally supplied
a notice is the real improvement is the bowden fittings, the tube itself is just PTFE - even from Capricorn, it's safe working temps are under 260C, it will off gas and soften well before it hits the marketed "340C" they try to claim. There are many other manufacturers that sell comparable tubing, that do the exact same thing. All you want for 1.75mm Filament is 1.9mm inner diameter with 0.05mm tolerance.
The fittings stock on ender 3 , however, are pretty cheaply made and should be replaced ASAP.
Capricorn has become the "Alienware" of 3D printing. It is high end product, but you can easily find other just-as-high end without the marketing to do what they claim, for cheaper as well.
Kissker Venwrath thanks for the info, can you suggest a company?
My original CR-10 from Summer 2017 definitely has the problem on the hot end side. Caused lots of jams and bad extrusion.
You fixed it?
Teaching Tech Still waiting on my Capricorn replacement. I fixed it temporarily a few times but the PTFE tube eventually backs out a bit and causes jams/extrusion problem mid-print. I’ve started printing some stuff at a fraction of the speed just so that it can extrude without jamming.
I tried to remove the PTFE tube to apply some PTFE dry lube and found out that as you said it is almost impossible. I already have some fittings I'll probably try with a thicker wall ptfe tube and ptfe lube. Just got some niceties from Clreality3d Store on Aliexpress too, one of the new fiber removable beds and a Creality 2.1 Atmega2560 based board. From Germany I got a carbon fiber bed also. Those beds will need a BL-touch / 3d-touch sensor to avoid endless calibrations when swapping beds....
The carbon fiber intrigues me greatly, and I didn't know they had a 2560 upgrade. Thanks for sharing.
It is not really an upgrade for th Ender 3, but for the CR-10 to CR-10S or replacemet for the latter. But as both cr-10 and ender-3 originally used same board I decided to get one and give it a try. It looks at first sight the holes for the microsd, usb and the mounting holes match. But you need a second cable for the screen too or build an adapter. The rest is recompile Marlin for a Ramps board with reprapdiscount full graphics o take the cr-10s example and modify it to match the phisics of the Ender 3 (this second path is better as you get the extra pins defined too). The carbon fiber surfaces are sold on ebay from Germany. Supposedly you clip over the bed like a glass and you can print directly over them, they are 1mm thick and you can bend them a little to pop the prints out almost like a spring steel one., but they are lighter and (supposedly, not tested) don't need a surface sticker over them (i bought extra ones just in case...). if you have a twitter account I can tweet you some photos.
At 2:54 you mention a fitting that you "covered in a previous video." What is the date of the video? I have not see a fitting like that anywhere on AliExpress.
Cheers, Sean
I recently bought an Ender 6 and the PTFE tube keeps popping out of the extruder so I will try these fittings instead thanks mate.
thanks for tips , you saved my day :)
ahhhhhhhhh why in the holy hell do they use 2 different fittings LMFAO I cant get away from this craziness whether its on cars and trucks or electronics I feel like they just use different threads to annoy consumers lol thanks for all your videos mate!! helped me a lot in new my venture! i got a cr10spro a few months ago and I run the hell out of it , about 50 hours a week and I finally had my first part failure. the bowden tube popped out of the extruder fitting.
Always better to remove the coupling from the hotend and not try and pull it out. I tried this this afternoon and ended up with a blocked nozzle from scrapings from the ptfe tube. Ended up having to replace the nozzle. You may need to heat the hotend too before pulling it out.
hell yeah I have replaced the fitting on all Chinese printers with ( less cheap) new couplers.
only the original Prusa I3 Mk3 is still orgininal as can be.
Maybe go to Pirtek for tube because those fitting look like push-in pneumatic fittings.
Exactly what they are!
Nice Video. Witch transparent tube-material is best for feeding filament a long way from a drybox to the printer?
Just letting you know there is a dead link for the "PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 connectors" in the description
My CR10 has the same ultra tight fitting near the nozzle. I was just unjamming some terrible filament and could NOT get it back down. Had to buy new fittings etc.
I’m new to printing and couldn’t remember the best way to cut the tubing (angle). I watched then and realized you reinstalled the original Bowden tube instead of the Capricorn tubing lol. Am I the only one that noticed this?
So... I found a reliability concern using capricorn tubing. If your extruder gear slips, just one tick or more and flattens out the filament slightly, it will not clear the tight toleranced i.d. of the capricorn tubing, and cause a failed print. Just something to consider.
oh man you saved me from a lot of trouble if that's the case idk if my printer would've been sitting where it's at or at the landfill if i would've bought those
I am believe I am having the same problem you had at 2:45. What did you do to get the clog out of the extruder like you showed?
Really useful video thanks, need to do this upgrade but can’t find anywhere that sells Capricorn tube and fittings in the UK, does anyone know somewhere?
Maybe in the future can you make a Trianglelab Titan extruder installation tutorial?
If someone sends me one I'll gladly do it.
Can you do a light mod on the Aldi printer please.
my m10 was very nice but my m6 was very bad so i replaced it before starting to use the ender
It made a good difference?
i never used the original one because i knew many had problems because of it, but i could see pushing it by hand that it moved 2 or 3 mm easy
Having an issue I think is fitting related, parts arriving on Friday!
Fingers crossed.
I already change to E3D V6 hotend is a good choice for ender3, it's all metal hotend then you can print Nylon and ABS better.
Nice, thinking of making the same upgrade to E3D kit, Did you go for the full aero or just the hot end?
just the hot end, I just bought cheap chines clone from taobao.com, I'm in china, only spend less than $20. btw, can't find your facebook, how can I follow you. twitter?
where do you get the benchy T-shirt?
They never do extractor, it seems like they would release when pushed down or with a special tool just like sharkbite plumbing fittings that only slide one way
Amazon link for the M6 and M10 connectors is broken!
Fittings the cone with my kit didn't work but I had taken the machine apart already Ender 3 pro
My ender 3 is having trouble printing. I decided to take the filament out of the bowden tube but it won't budge. It hasn't snapped or anything, it's impossible to pull the actual filament out of it. Any suggestions?
Just got the parts in, plan in upgrading after work, do I need to have the hot end at pla temps when putting in or doesn't matter? Only print pla currently
Shouldn't matter unless something is stuck. If the tube isn't coming easily, moving a tad further in before gently trying to extract can help.
hi .. if i could, i would give all your ender 3 (just ordered one) videos 3 thumbs-up minimum; this is extremely helpful - thx a lot!
Haha thanks very much.
Thank you Michael. I will check this on mine. I should be getting it tomorrow, any more thoughts for a newbie? :)
First layer leveling and height is by far the number 1 thing that trips new users up. Getting the right amount of 'squish' for that layer is essential.
@@TeachingTech thank you.👍🏻👍🏻
BTW, you are correct. But I was new to this and I am learning. I found out that I did have my bed level, but the wheels were loosening due to the fact I didn't have them tight enough to begin with.
I used the paper method in all 4 corners, still had issues. I think cause of the extruder and the loosening thumbs wheels.
Also I didn't know how to remove the parts from the stock build plate. I didn't know to let it cool down first.
As a result, I tried to clean the plate to no avail. It's ruined. But thats ok. Everyone seems to like the glass better.
So I got the glass replacement from Creality thru amazon.com.
Will try that once I get some rest, work has been crazy.
Thank you.
PS -- have you heard of anyone removing the 4 bed springs and replacing them with solid standoffs and using the autolevel?
Do u have a vid showing how to take the tubing out of the stock fitting? You only showed how to do it on the hot end here
The little, metal limit sensor on the left end of the X axis on my unit broke off when I was doing a fix on the unit. Have you ever done this and could you possibly do a video showing how to do the replacement? I searched for one here on TH-cam but couldn't find any such video. Thanks.
If you find the part it will be a straight bolt on/plugin replacement.
I personally use th3d's blue tubing I love it any way you would do a berd air setup on any of your printer apposed to using fans for part cooling
Not sure what you mean by 'berd air' but you have my attention.
@@TeachingTech Google berd air it's by the maker hive or something like that
@@TeachingTech www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=45
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2875099 I used this mount an rubber bands I'm printing a second mount for my tevo which is 24v I got the 12v on because there was no 24v ones in stock I got it as a mockup I checked there site the 24v ones were back in stock so I'm making another mount an gonna use one for my tevo an the other for my ender 3 or cr10s it allows your extruder carriage to be lighter since there won't be part cooler fans I'm gonna pair it with a ezabl e3d-v6 an possibly a zesty nimble to have the direct drive experience with them machines I have a zest nimble on order for my tevo little monster as well
i just tried to remove the ptfe tube from the coupler and it stuck, it won't move even I already press down the flange button. Just need to buy a new coupler and ptfe tube instead. Thanks for the video.
I have the same issue
I'm in the UK and can't get the specific brands you have mentioned here can you advise the best pieces I can get off Amazon or UK based sites?
I don't know if I should replace the fittings and get a capricorn tube for my ender 3 V2. I bought him a couple of weeks ago, first test print (the dog gcode) was completed perfectly but every other print I try (the cat gcode from the sd card that came with the printer) fails (extruder starts skipping steps/clicking). No matter what I do (disassamble the hotend and put it back together, make sure the tube goes all the way down to the nozzle etc) the problem persists. I am a bit hesitant to spend more money on a machine with the risk of not solving the issue.
Just got an ender 5 pro. The extruder side connector doesn't grip the tube very tightly and there is movement on retraction. That must be where my stringing is coming from. I've only printed the test dog so far.
I got my new Ender 3 Pro a week ago. I got one test print to work, but since then the factory fitting on the extruder end as shown in video keeps letting go of the PTFE tube. I don't understand the mechanism that is intended to retain the tube (on both the factory and Capricorn replacement fittings). On the hot end fitting, I see there are spring loaded inward radial teeth that retain the tube until the flange ring on the fitting pushes the teeth outward to release the tube (factory and replacement).
I just got my replacement Capricorn tube and fittings and was searching for how long the tube should be, and I am still confounded about how to make sure the tube stays in place on the extruder end.
What is the thread pitch for the M10?
A little frustrated that you say you weren't able to get the bowden coupler off and then just cut to it being off. I have the same problem and have no idea how to tackle this to get it off. I can't find any info from others on how to remove it either, everyone just says remove it but I don't know what to do since it won't come off.
I’ve been interested in the Ender 3 and don’t mind tinkering with it. But have you all been keeping track of the cost of the upgrades?
Wondering if costs of buying a Ender 3 and upgrading it is worth it compared to more expensive 3D printers.
It still comes out pretty well ahead. Until you are getting up to something like a Prusa MK3 (which I also have), it's hard to find a lot of these smart features includes.
The essentials are cheap as chips. That's basically the fan cover you print yourself, the couplers, and a spare bit of regular Bowden tubing if you don't need high temps
I fully agree with you, now I realize how the Ender-3 is a crappy printer with too many design flaws which once fixed are almost doubling the price of the printer. With all flaws fixed and EZABL and EZOut add-ons you end up with a final cost not so far from a better Prusa i3 Mk3. And you also lost many many many hours viewing videos like this one. A great video by the way, kudos to this TH-camr, but I would have prefer NOT having to watch it to begin with.
Any tips on the lenght to cut the bowden tube?
Do you need to heat the end first before you remove the tube?
What about compression fittings ? I've seen a lot of favorable comments that they don't bite into the Bowden tube but compress around it- and without compressing the internal diameter of the Bowden so as to cause drag as the filament passes through the Bowden. Comments ?
I tried the coupling that came with my Capricorn tubing and they coupling is so tight I can’t push the tube through it and the tube is so slippery that I cannot increase my grip on it.
Is it supposed to be so tight?
For use with a E3D V6 that has "internal" Bowen coupler, which coupler do you need for the cold end, the M6 or M10? (think it's the latter but want to make sure).
The extruder end uses the M10.
Is the capricorn really worth? Or buying metal teeth fitting in a local shop will also do the job?
I live in spain and the tube and fittings bundle is 22$ + shipping which is 14$ + customs office taxes. While if I just bought metal teeth fittings it would be under 5$
I would prioritise getting the cap tube and source the fittings cheaper locally. Taxes and shipping can really hurt, I agree.
The Capricorne clones found on AliExpress are they as good? Like the TriangleLab 1.9mm. It's about 4 times cheaper.@@TeachingTech
If ever you have to replace it again, Bowden bundle, Amazon.es 18.99 Euros.
My tube keeps popping off during long prints... I noticed the filament was crimped in slight zigzag patterns not just teeth marks...I released pressure on spring all the way
my capricorn tube seems to fuse with filament inside it, any solutions?
How much heat must the connector be able to handle ? Went to a pneumatic shop and got a standard PC4-M6. Think it will work ?
The connector I have can handle 70C. Does the Bowden system only heat up the nozzle or the connector too ?
It should be ok because the heat sink and fan are designed to stop the heat spreading up as far as the connector.
whats the clip you printed to keep the tube snug?
Where did you get the shirt, I want one!
I've changed mine to Capricorn on Ender 3 and the retraction magic of 6 mm per 25mm/s is not working anymore. Many stringing now. Do you have updated your parameters after changing to Capricorn ? I understand that is tighter so I need to change retraction but its very hard to find the right parameters... thanks !
I use 10 mm whith petg at 45 mm/s, prints very well
You put the tube all the way into the extruder? We did that on ours and the tube melted and jammed the extruder 🙃
Can you do a video for the cr10s pro v2?
I actually had a problem where the stock tube melted in the hotend and couldn't get the filament out.
(Iv never had to work on my printer and got it second hand prebuilt)
No instruction on removing the Bowden tube from the hot end coupler? Most vids skip that part. Probably don’t want to show the struggle.
I've tried every type of pneumatic fitting available and my cr10s-pro v2 will bassically blow the extruder side tube out of the fitting consistantly. The teeth in the fittings just seem too get worn down and break on me super fast; talkin sub 100hr of printing. Either way I am looking into buying some actual compression fittings+ferrule at least for my extruder side. Fair warning tho its sortof unreasonably hard too find compression fittings for this task (ie. M6x14mmOD + 2mmID ferrule).
For an Ender 3, you need approximately 50cm of PTFE tube, 1 x PC4-M6 and 1 x PC6 x M10 couplings.
Are you sure that PC6 x M10 is correct?
PTFE tube 4mm, I think PC4 x M10 will be correct
You are right, I've corrected the description.