This video was very well done and helpful. I’m restoring my entire 68 Galaxie which is a huge car. It has become a huge project getting all the bodywork done. I finally have 4 light coats of high build primer on it. Since I’m a novice I used a low volume low pressure cheap gun I got on Amazon. I added a 1/2 part of slow reducer to the 2k urethane primer so I would have time and maybe make less mistakes ( mainly runs ). My first coat I had some runs so I reduced the volume a bit. I sprayed at 5-6” and used a 1.5 tip. My painter advised me to use a high volume gun and a 1.8 or 2.0 tip with no reducer but I was afraid of that since I’m a beginner. I’m glad I used a low volume gun at about 22 PSI. The final 3 coats I had almost no runs to sand out. I used almost an entire gallon of Speedkote high build 2k urethane primer but it blocked out nicely and I’m finally ready to trailer it over to my painter’s professional booth. He said by doing the bodywork and prep I saved about $3000-4000. The car will get 3 base color coats of original Ford Candy apple red and 3 coats of clear. Then maybe I will wait a while to reinstall the bumpers and all the stainless trim until after I wet sand and buff it. A ton of work!
Good tips! As a beginner I was skimping on the final primer coat! I was just painting after blocking it out without another coat of primer to make it uniform. Of course, the burn through spots of filler show through the finish a little.
@@LakesideAutobody im still rattle can.. I've started using SEM primer and clears and they are amazing for rattle can. The 1k Hs clear is amazing, and the primer filler is really thick.
Good work. When you are working on an old car that has rust pits, do you ever use a phosphoric acid treatment like Ospho to take care of that little rust in those pits before you use your filler? Thanks, Tom
Thanks, my boss used to make us use that or a product like that, but I was never sure how long it made the repair last- I'm sure it helped though. I usually just sand blast the area the best I can then just fill it or prime it. I never have a problem with the rust coming back if it is not rusted through. Hope that answers your ? - Jerry
Great video. I’ve just welded in a rocker panel repair on a VW. When I skim coat the Bondo, that goes direct to metal correct? Then epoxy prime on top of that? What’s the best way to feather in to existing black paint. Repair isn’t really close to any body lines or door, etc..
You can epoxy prime first then spread your filler or use filler directly to metal - It's good to remember that filler was used many year before epoxy primer even existed and it was always put over freshly sand/grinded clean metal. You can spray epoxy over the filler then a few coats of urethane primer surfacer. You really don't need to ever use epoxy primer - just DTM primer surfacer like lacquer primer, urethane primer or polyester primer (feather fill) Don't ever worry about primer and filler absorbing water and all the scary stuff you hear on the internet - that's the paints job :) Here's a couple vids that may explain these concepts - th-cam.com/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/w-d-xo.html & th-cam.com/video/I5RaAgbNOe0/w-d-xo.html
I might have missed this at some point and might have messed up this week. If you spray the lacquer primer over your body work and you see something you don't like, do you sand off all the lacquer primer before adding bondo body filler? I've been reading today that I shouldn't put bondo over lacquer primer. I was using the primer to see. I'm trying not to be too hard on myself right now. I have a hard time remember what should be done when I'm working and just do stuff to see how it's looking. It'll be ok, I'm not working on anything really important. A 94 s10 blazer. It's nice, but even if I did a good job on the paint, it wouldn't be worth a lot. I should know to read more before acting on it, but if I did, I'd probably never move.
Many articles and books frown upon that practice but you'll never have a problem putting filler over sanded primer. I try not to do it but sometimes you have to. You can also use your favorite glazing putty that is made for that. I use the old fashioned lacquer putty - dries super fast, don't have to mix it, very inexpensive. Bondo 00907 4.5 oz. Glazing & Spot Putty - Again, you can put regular body filler over sanded paint or sanded primer. Jerry
I've used your methods with my foxbody. The hood turned out great but the right side cowl panel after the final painting. I can actually still see bondo ring through it. Cant see any on the hood from where I fixed the dents there. What you recommend I do. Would applying more primer sealer be affected. Like more coats. Thanks for the videos and knowledge
Good to hear your hood turned out well. Wait for the paint to dry real well - the longer the better, mask off the area, wet sand the paint with 320 or 400 (you can dry sand but sometimes new paint clogs the paper), you can prime again if you want but if you're real close to full coverage you might want to just give it a few more color coats. Let me know how it goes or if you have more ?'s
your body work has to be close to perfect so the paint doesn't magnify your small inperferfections. and those small inperfections must be taken care of with spot putty or bondo again and then maybe prime over once again and block sand until you think you have it pretty level and matching the contour of the part your working on. good luck.
great video...what blocks the bondo work from mapping through the paint? the epoxy or the high build primer? have used both and still see some mapping. What is the best way to seal bondo for no mapping? thank you
After you spray your primer surfacer - and it has to be primer surfacer so that it builds thickness - you will block sand which will forever hide the filler. If you block sand correctly, it will be flat as glass and you'll never see your filler again - no matter what the internet, magazines and tv says. Here's a few videos on blocking - th-cam.com/video/EQmqKhLkeOQ/w-d-xo.html ***th-cam.com/video/jGqxGgj0DYY/w-d-xo.html *** th-cam.com/video/7St90HCzEDg/w-d-xo.html ***
Never seen anybody not use somekind of cleaner/ degreaser on it before primer.. justbecause might be oils from hands from touching it or sweat.. hell last bodywork i did i used acetone and paint prep plus tack cloth and the stuff still didnt turnout great. But it was a deep deep black paint job so everything shows upin that..
If you wipe it once with wax and grease remover you're done for the whole job. Only if you do something crazy like get grease or oil on it would you have to do it again. I don't oil my DA's, grinders, die grinder etc during a job - maybe after and then run it through.
What is the different between using primer filler 1k and epoxy primer 2k on painting a car. 2. If first primer after sanding got alittle bit small hole and i bondo it and sanding again until smooth then i go to spray basecoat without spray one more primer layer.. It is can or not like that.. And can brief about the result.. Sorry i am not good in english language and i hope u can understand my Q.. I am also a beginner.. Tqvm.. I really appreacite if u answer my Q..
You can use any type of automotive primer 1k or 2k that you prefer. I use lacquer primer through the whole job because it works, it's cheap, it doesn't harden in the cup, you can vary the thickness for filling or finish sanding, sands easy etc. The choices of primer surfacer is many but I would go with what you like and what works for you.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for reply, just ordered my surform, and got some p40 and p38 (uk make) fillers for my birthday off my brother. waiting on some rust converter and jd weld and I'm away!!! I have a 73 Opel Manta that I've had for 16 years or so, taking the underneath back and repainting and lots of other stuff, I'm blabbing now sorry! thx Gaz
Wet sanding: sandpaper lasts longer and stays cleaner (doesn't clog up). Less dust. more accurate with less chance of cutting into body lines and making errors. Dry sanding - you can use a DA, It's much faster, not so sloppy with the water and wet tape etc.
@@LakesideAutobody Thankyou for the quick reply , your explanation makes good sense , I'm working on an old vespa with many curves that I applied 3 coats of high build on and was following your videos as I go, I'm not sure I would feel comfortable using 80 and then 100 but in a way it does sounds reasonable even for a newbie like me as you did reprime again after the 100 and applied another coat of primer and then offered the choice of 400 wet which this all may work nicely for my project.
25,000 views only 573 likes that is only 2.292% of the viewers who picked up some knowledge and paid respect by not being lazy and actually hitting The like button. That's inconsiderate you guys and gals.
I totally agree!... Jerry is sharing his knowledge.. to better us out here . Please people.. if you watch the videos.. give a thumbs 👍 up.. and subscribe.... Great note Conor.
Hey Jerry, I loved seeing old school. Is that your Buffalo 7? I'm doing a long wheelbase '49 Chevy panel truck, and the roof is 12 feet long. I'm doing it showcar spec, so urethane primer, even the cheap stuff, would be over a thousand bucks. I'm using black acrylic lacquer primer surfaces, and the first gallon only put 2 coats on the sides and back doors. I'm anticipating 6+ gallons to reach my goal of supernatural straightness. Wish me and my arthritis luck😁
That's actually a thrift store special Campbell Hausfeld Model 7 copy - works just fine. I wish you luck my friend -have a good weekend and keep me posted on how it goes for you :)
That's good to hear. BTW my dad's first auto body shop job was at a place called JR's Collision - actually JR's Custom Paint - that's a cool name for a collision shop :)
Yes. You can use either the red or grey. I use the red but some like the grey because it's finer and they claim you may see scratches in the clear - though I never do.
So on the parts where I seen metal before u primed. You didn’t use etch primer there? There is so much crqp on line it’s hard to know what to do. I love ur videos well laid out and good camera work so I can see what ur doing. I’m a novice and need to get better at that. So. Bare metal. Body filler. Glaze. High build. Then thinner primer. No need to worry about the small bare metal areas I seen? I trust you!
You never need to use etch primer - ever. That's just a new product they're pushing. Old days - Bare metal, filler, primer, block sand, prime again w/ glazing putty for small imperfections, finish sand, prime any bare spots (sealer or thin primer) - paint. That's how all major body shops painted cars from 1940-2000. Anything outside of that is new stuff being pushed as "needed".
I really like this format. I think 6 videos in total but each one details a specific part of the process in and easy to follow format. Thanks again for your details. Not sure if you have done a video yet, the thought just came to me so I haven't searched it, but if you haven't already how about a video on door dings. I just noticed someone tagged my car door. It did go deep enough to break through the clear coat and into the primer. Would like to see how you go about it. Again thanks for your videos.
You're welcome - glad you like the videos. I'll do a video on door dings or look for one I may have done and get it out there. Have a good week Shima :)
That is lacquer primer surfacer. Something like this - www.paintforcars.com/auto-paint/tci-premium-lacquer-primer-gray/?gclid=CjwKCAiAsNKQBhAPEiwAB-I5zc-qv9keUVv2daNoChZaVonA1YNtTrGmf21-PDsxkBOOUHFDHAGdRxoCY2YQAvD_BwE
So I’m not sure how to email you directly but I’m struggling with getting a shine. I have pretty bad orange peel and I’ve used 400-800-1500 3000 and 5000 and a cutting compound and a polish and just can’t get a shine. Do you have an email or phone where I could send you some pics?
Yes - you don't have to use self etch primer. Primer surfacers such as lacquer primer surfacer, urethane primer surfacer, epoxy or poly are regularly sprayed DTM (directly to metal or direct to metal) in most body shops w/o self etch primers.
Not trying to be funny. Is there a reason that you are using that kind of putty? Most people say that is is outdated and that it shrinks. Ok i looked at the rest of the video and i'm trying to understand why you would sand primer with 80grit unless you ment to say 180. 80grit is way to coarse for primer. Most technicians use 180 to 220 as there final sand on Bondo before primer. This the first time i have seen someone sand primer with 80grit.🤔
1st sorry about the late reply. You always want to cut through the material or else you run the chance of riding over the highs and lows. This is the biggest beginner mistake is using too fine of sand paper. Don't be afraid to use rougher sand paper, you can always come back with finer grit. Your body work with be much straighter and you'll be much faster in high production shops. Jerry
you use spot putty for small pin holes etc...... its still around, but now they have other product they want you to buy which cost more, its up to you if you want to buy the other stuff but putty works fine. good luck.
400 grit is the most commonly used finishing sand paper. You can get away with using 220-320 dry on a DA though as long as you use real automotive paint. You won't have a problem.
Thanks Jerry. I can't wait to start applying your lessons! You are a master.
Thanks a lot and thanks for the support - let me know how it goes :)
thank you, appreciate how you explain every detail and do not assume we know certain things
You're welcome - glad the video is helpful :)
This video was very well done and helpful. I’m restoring my entire 68 Galaxie which is a huge car. It has become a huge project getting all the bodywork done. I finally have 4 light coats of high build primer on it. Since I’m a novice I used a low volume low pressure cheap gun I got on Amazon. I added a 1/2 part of slow reducer to the 2k urethane primer so I would have time and maybe make less mistakes ( mainly runs ). My first coat I had some runs so I reduced the volume a bit. I sprayed at 5-6” and used a 1.5 tip. My painter advised me to use a high volume gun and a 1.8 or 2.0 tip with no reducer but I was afraid of that since I’m a beginner. I’m glad I used a low volume gun at about 22 PSI. The final 3 coats I had almost no runs to sand out. I used almost an entire gallon of Speedkote high build 2k urethane primer but it blocked out nicely and I’m finally ready to trailer it over to my painter’s professional booth. He said by doing the bodywork and prep I saved about $3000-4000.
The car will get 3 base color coats of original Ford Candy apple red and 3 coats of clear. Then maybe I will wait a while to reinstall the bumpers and all the stainless trim until after I wet sand and buff it.
A ton of work!
You're right - it's a lot of work Hope it looks great for you. Send pics if you want - would love to see it. schoolvideolibrary at gmail - Jerry
Definitely helped Jerry. I'm at the sanding stage and almost ready to start spraying primer. Thank you! Keep up the awesome videos!
Glad to hear it my friend - you're welcome :)
Good tips! As a beginner I was skimping on the final primer coat! I was just painting after blocking it out without another coat of primer to make it uniform. Of course, the burn through spots of filler show through the finish a little.
Don't worry about loading it up with primer to have something to block sand. If you need even thicker primer, try feather fill.
@@LakesideAutobody im still rattle can.. I've started using SEM primer and clears and they are amazing for rattle can. The 1k Hs clear is amazing, and the primer filler is really thick.
@@jeremyr7147 Harbor Freight has some good cheep spray guns - you might want to try them. see: th-cam.com/video/lwHDMcDWVzQ/w-d-xo.html
Good work. When you are working on an old car that has rust pits, do you ever use a phosphoric acid treatment like Ospho to take care of that little rust in those pits before you use your filler? Thanks, Tom
Thanks, my boss used to make us use that or a product like that, but I was never sure how long it made the repair last- I'm sure it helped though. I usually just sand blast the area the best I can then just fill it or prime it. I never have a problem with the rust coming back if it is not rusted through. Hope that answers your ? - Jerry
Great video. I’ve just welded in a rocker panel repair on a VW. When I skim coat the Bondo, that goes direct to metal correct? Then epoxy prime on top of that? What’s the best way to feather in to existing black paint. Repair isn’t really close to any body lines or door, etc..
You can epoxy prime first then spread your filler or use filler directly to metal - It's good to remember that filler was used many year before epoxy primer even existed and it was always put over freshly sand/grinded clean metal. You can spray epoxy over the filler then a few coats of urethane primer surfacer. You really don't need to ever use epoxy primer - just DTM primer surfacer like lacquer primer, urethane primer or polyester primer (feather fill) Don't ever worry about primer and filler absorbing water and all the scary stuff you hear on the internet - that's the paints job :) Here's a couple vids that may explain these concepts - th-cam.com/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/w-d-xo.html & th-cam.com/video/I5RaAgbNOe0/w-d-xo.html
I might have missed this at some point and might have messed up this week. If you spray the lacquer primer over your body work and you see something you don't like, do you sand off all the lacquer primer before adding bondo body filler? I've been reading today that I shouldn't put bondo over lacquer primer. I was using the primer to see. I'm trying not to be too hard on myself right now. I have a hard time remember what should be done when I'm working and just do stuff to see how it's looking. It'll be ok, I'm not working on anything really important. A 94 s10 blazer. It's nice, but even if I did a good job on the paint, it wouldn't be worth a lot. I should know to read more before acting on it, but if I did, I'd probably never move.
Many articles and books frown upon that practice but you'll never have a problem putting filler over sanded primer. I try not to do it but sometimes you have to. You can also use your favorite glazing putty that is made for that. I use the old fashioned lacquer putty - dries super fast, don't have to mix it, very inexpensive. Bondo 00907 4.5 oz. Glazing & Spot Putty - Again, you can put regular body filler over sanded paint or sanded primer. Jerry
I tape it off on the high body line before primer as well. great video ,great tips!
Thanks GN - you have a nice channel yourself :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank's brother!
Thanks man!!! God Bless you helped me! Love from Wisco!
You're welcome - I'm glad it helped. It's good to hear :)
Final sanding of primer is best to use 400 grit, minimum 320
I've used your methods with my foxbody. The hood turned out great but the right side cowl panel after the final painting. I can actually still see bondo ring through it. Cant see any on the hood from where I fixed the dents there. What you recommend I do. Would applying more primer sealer be affected. Like more coats. Thanks for the videos and knowledge
Good to hear your hood turned out well. Wait for the paint to dry real well - the longer the better, mask off the area, wet sand the paint with 320 or 400 (you can dry sand but sometimes new paint clogs the paper), you can prime again if you want but if you're real close to full coverage you might want to just give it a few more color coats. Let me know how it goes or if you have more ?'s
your body work has to be close to perfect so the paint doesn't magnify your small inperferfections. and those small inperfections must be taken care of with spot putty or bondo again and then maybe prime over once again and block sand until you think you have it pretty level and matching the contour of the part your working on. good luck.
Real good video. It was very helpful.
great video...what blocks the bondo work from mapping through the paint? the epoxy or the high build primer? have used both and still see some mapping. What is the best way to seal bondo for no mapping? thank you
After you spray your primer surfacer - and it has to be primer surfacer so that it builds thickness - you will block sand which will forever hide the filler. If you block sand correctly, it will be flat as glass and you'll never see your filler again - no matter what the internet, magazines and tv says. Here's a few videos on blocking - th-cam.com/video/EQmqKhLkeOQ/w-d-xo.html ***th-cam.com/video/jGqxGgj0DYY/w-d-xo.html *** th-cam.com/video/7St90HCzEDg/w-d-xo.html ***
Great detail and video!
Never seen anybody not use somekind of cleaner/ degreaser on it before primer.. justbecause might be oils from hands from touching it or sweat.. hell last bodywork i did i used acetone and paint prep plus tack cloth and the stuff still didnt turnout great. But it was a deep deep black paint job so everything shows upin that..
If you wipe it once with wax and grease remover you're done for the whole job. Only if you do something crazy like get grease or oil on it would you have to do it again. I don't oil my DA's, grinders, die grinder etc during a job - maybe after and then run it through.
Subbed to your Channel. This is the way I do bodywork. Learned when I was a kid.
Thanks for the sub. Have a great week BBK :)
What is the different between using primer filler 1k and epoxy primer 2k on painting a car.
2. If first primer after sanding got alittle bit small hole and i bondo it and sanding again until smooth then i go to spray basecoat without spray one more primer layer.. It is can or not like that.. And can brief about the result.. Sorry i am not good in english language and i hope u can understand my Q.. I am also a beginner.. Tqvm.. I really appreacite if u answer my Q..
You can use any type of automotive primer 1k or 2k that you prefer. I use lacquer primer through the whole job because it works, it's cheap, it doesn't harden in the cup, you can vary the thickness for filling or finish sanding, sands easy etc. The choices of primer surfacer is many but I would go with what you like and what works for you.
Great instructional video, thanks!
Thanks - Happy Easter.
Hi Jerry found you a few weeks ago, your advice is so great and straight forward, thanks Gaz
I appreciate that. Thanks and you're welcome. Feel free to ask any ?s you have - nice to meet you Gaz.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for reply, just ordered my surform, and got some p40 and p38 (uk make) fillers for my birthday off my brother. waiting on some rust converter and jd weld and I'm away!!! I have a 73 Opel Manta that I've had for 16 years or so, taking the underneath back and repainting and lots of other stuff, I'm blabbing now sorry! thx Gaz
your a great reference source. Thanks
You're welcome - I appreciate your comment - have a good week :)
Would there be an advantage or disadvantage wet sanding compared to dry sanding ?
Wet sanding: sandpaper lasts longer and stays cleaner (doesn't clog up). Less dust. more accurate with less chance of cutting into body lines and making errors.
Dry sanding - you can use a DA, It's much faster, not so sloppy with the water and wet tape etc.
@@LakesideAutobody Thankyou for the quick reply , your explanation makes good sense , I'm working on an old vespa with many curves that I applied 3 coats of high build on and was following your videos as I go, I'm not sure I would feel comfortable using 80 and then 100 but in a way it does sounds reasonable even for a newbie like me as you did reprime again after the 100 and applied another coat of primer and then offered the choice of 400 wet which this all may work nicely for my project.
wet sanding i think is cleaner where as dry sanding is messier cause of the dust flying in the air.
25,000 views only 573 likes that is only 2.292% of the viewers who picked up some knowledge and paid respect by not being lazy and actually hitting The like button. That's inconsiderate you guys and gals.
I totally agree!... Jerry is sharing his knowledge.. to better us out here .
Please people.. if you watch the videos.. give a thumbs 👍 up.. and subscribe.... Great note Conor.
What grit sandpaper do you use to prep your body work prior to applying the filler primer?
80 grit to finish the filler.
Hey Jerry, I loved seeing old school. Is that your Buffalo 7? I'm doing a long wheelbase '49 Chevy panel truck, and the roof is 12 feet long. I'm doing it showcar spec, so urethane primer, even the cheap stuff, would be over a thousand bucks. I'm using black acrylic lacquer primer surfaces, and the first gallon only put 2 coats on the sides and back doors. I'm anticipating 6+ gallons to reach my goal of supernatural straightness. Wish me and my arthritis luck😁
That's actually a thrift store special Campbell Hausfeld Model 7 copy - works just fine. I wish you luck my friend -have a good weekend and keep me posted on how it goes for you :)
I'm learning so much form your videos 🧠🤯
That's good to hear. BTW my dad's first auto body shop job was at a place called JR's Collision - actually JR's Custom Paint - that's a cool name for a collision shop :)
Great job -on the color match - learned something- Thank You God Bless
Thanks - glad you liked it - God bless you too :)
what kindof cleaning solution do you use after sanding the primer and getting it ready to lay on another coat?
Any wax and grease remover will work for you. Something like this - autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=2032
Did you just scuff pad the remainder of the panel in order to blend it in?
Yes. You can use either the red or grey. I use the red but some like the grey because it's finer and they claim you may see scratches in the clear - though I never do.
Thx Jerry. I'm soaking up your tutorials.
Glad you like them - I promise if you watch these and you practice you'll be a fine bodyman/painter :)
Hey nice video 👍, can I wet sand Bondo?? It makes it smoother? And does it get rid of the sanding line’s ?
Yes you can wet sand filler but let it dry for a while before priming because it's porous. Thanks BTW.
looks perfect to me great video
Thanks - Happy Holidays
So on the parts where I seen metal before u primed. You didn’t use etch primer there? There is so much crqp on line it’s hard to know what to do. I love ur videos well laid out and good camera work so I can see what ur doing. I’m a novice and need to get better at that. So. Bare metal. Body filler. Glaze. High build. Then thinner primer. No need to worry about the small bare metal areas I seen? I trust you!
You never need to use etch primer - ever. That's just a new product they're pushing. Old days - Bare metal, filler, primer, block sand, prime again w/ glazing putty for small imperfections, finish sand, prime any bare spots (sealer or thin primer) - paint. That's how all major body shops painted cars from 1940-2000. Anything outside of that is new stuff being pushed as "needed".
@@LakesideAutobodythis is exactly what I'm going to do ....
I really like this format. I think 6 videos in total but each one details a specific part of the process in and easy to follow format. Thanks again for your details. Not sure if you have done a video yet, the thought just came to me so I haven't searched it, but if you haven't already how about a video on door dings. I just noticed someone tagged my car door. It did go deep enough to break through the clear coat and into the primer. Would like to see how you go about it. Again thanks for your videos.
You're welcome - glad you like the videos. I'll do a video on door dings or look for one I may have done and get it out there. Have a good week Shima :)
Is that epoxy/DTM primer?
That is lacquer primer surfacer. Something like this - www.paintforcars.com/auto-paint/tci-premium-lacquer-primer-gray/?gclid=CjwKCAiAsNKQBhAPEiwAB-I5zc-qv9keUVv2daNoChZaVonA1YNtTrGmf21-PDsxkBOOUHFDHAGdRxoCY2YQAvD_BwE
Another very informative video
Thanks
So I’m not sure how to email you directly but I’m struggling with getting a shine. I have pretty bad orange peel and I’ve used 400-800-1500 3000 and 5000 and a cutting compound and a polish and just can’t get a shine. Do you have an email or phone where I could send you some pics?
Yes - email is schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry 😊
Excellent thanks
What does DA mean?
Dual action
Dual Action sander it has a oscillating rotatation .
nice work.
Thanks :)
Are you saying it's basically a myth that you have to use self etch primer
Yes - you don't have to use self etch primer. Primer surfacers such as lacquer primer surfacer, urethane primer surfacer, epoxy or poly are regularly sprayed DTM (directly to metal or direct to metal) in most body shops w/o self etch primers.
@@LakesideAutobody I'm sorry I'm stuck on this I've just been told that forever.
You should rename your channel auto body myth buster
@@RobertDickens2002 That or at least a few videos with that name 😊
@@LakesideAutobody I will definitely watch
The Bob Ross of autobody ...
Thanks - had to look that guy up :)
Well said lol
Wearing latex gloves is always good.
😊
Not trying to be funny. Is there a reason that you are using that kind of putty? Most people say that is is outdated and that it shrinks. Ok i looked at the rest of the video and i'm trying to understand why you would sand primer with 80grit unless you ment to say 180. 80grit is way to coarse for primer. Most technicians use 180 to 220 as there final sand on Bondo before primer. This the first time i have seen someone sand primer with 80grit.🤔
1st sorry about the late reply. You always want to cut through the material or else you run the chance of riding over the highs and lows. This is the biggest beginner mistake is using too fine of sand paper. Don't be afraid to use rougher sand paper, you can always come back with finer grit. Your body work with be much straighter and you'll be much faster in high production shops. Jerry
iether he made a mistake or thats his style, but yes i would use a lighter grit on primer for sure.
you use spot putty for small pin holes etc...... its still around, but now they have other product they want you to buy which cost more, its up to you if you want to buy the other stuff but putty works fine. good luck.
new sub here but man dont tell peopel to finish sanding with 400 wet? or 220 320 dry,,, your base will not cover then scratches,, so ur wrong,,
400 grit is the most commonly used finishing sand paper. You can get away with using 220-320 dry on a DA though as long as you use real automotive paint. You won't have a problem.