How to BREAK IN your Motorcycle ENGINE: What's BEST?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- We all want our engines to last forever and run perfectly. What's the best way to break in a motorcycle engine to achieve something near perfection? Cycle World Technical Editor Kevin Cameron and Editor-in-Chief Mark Hoyer talk about engine break-in on this episode of the Cycle World Podcast to share their research and experience about engine break-in and the "13,000 times" Hoyer has removed his Velocette MSS piston. OK, maybe he's not an expert? Find out now...
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I miss the old Cycle World of the 70's . The magazines were so good in the old days. Well worth what you paid for it. You couldn't wait until next month to come. They were read cover to cover and kept for years. All gone now 😢.
It's important that senior and seasoned veterans in the industry take the time and exercise the patience to pass on their excellent knowledge to the next guys coming up.
Thanks, guys! I'm 70 today and learned a new word-asperities! Ima gonna go and inflate my rings now!
Happy birthday man! Ok I'm a day late but still
Happy belated birthday dear 🎉
I'm 55 and right with you brother
Inflate them for me cause I am working😮
As it always has, Cycle World makes motorcycle ownership wholly satisfying. Especially the technical discussions like this one.
There's plenty of semi truths out there, but these two give the actual reasons - thank you for these tech talks 👍🏻 I used to get US mags in the 80s and early 90s and I thoroughly enjoyed Kevin's articles back then......and probably even more now I do all my own motorcycle tuning, builds, maintenance etc 🇬🇧🍻
"Population of unpleasant traffic competitors." Nice wordsmithing Kevin.
The old "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Mechanics" comes to mind.
These conversations are fascinating and informative - can’t get enough. Thank you!
Kevin is superb!
Modern manufacturing is so good now... but oh to be validated... loading it up is the way, indeed. I actually ran non-synthetic oil for the first early oil change on a new 800DE (around 200 varied load miles) before putting full synthetic in after another couple thousand.. Bike runs so well. Love these series of videos y'all have been doing.. You are both a wealth of knowledge & stories. Cheers.
on my 800de I used the suzuki synthetic at 300km, and the 'first' complimentry service at 900km. did your bike with the factory oil smell like burnt crayons before the change??
I've broken in over a half dozen new engines in similar way. Heavy pressure for a few seconds, 1/3 RPM range, full coast, repeat. Dump oil. Take it back out for more cycles running 2/3 RPM. Dump oil. Take it back out for full RPM range eventually dump oil. Each time less and less particles flush out of the oil. Initial oil is removed in a mere 15-20 miles. And it's worth it. Not every engine I've done this to removes the same amount of shiny particles, but each engine did. The manufacturer recommendation is fine, but it says nothing about putting pressure on those rings. I always cringe at all the social media comments I've read about people crying that they can't wait to get hundreds of miles on their new bike so they can finally open the throttle. I'm sorry, they already missed the opportunity to have better ring seal. Cannot be done later, has to be done immediately. The manufacturer has to publish something and it has to work for every single customer, very smart people and very dumb people. The manufacturer also has to concern themselves with new riders on new unfamiliar motorcycles, and the liability lawsuits that could arise from such things. And the solution is their "break in mileage recommendations". It's mostly about breaking a new rider into a new motorcycle, not about engines running their absolute highest performance with the best seal possible.
I bought a new zx6r along with a buddy of mine at almost the same time a few years ago. I did a break-in that resembled how I would use it every time I ride (hard but not abusive). He did the Kawasaki recommended soft break-in. Now, anytime we race, I always pull away from him even though we weight about the same and have the same body type. Food for thought.
Just maybe your balls are bigger...jus' sayin'
You should swap the bikes and see if the results will be the same…😉
Yep, believable. In spite the drastic advances in metal finishing and the consistency of engines coming off the assembly line, there are still break-in processes happening at the microscopic plane and that can NEVER be eliminated by the nature of metals in general and machining processes in general. Better ring seal is better ring seal. It means combustion pressure is more efficient in the upper cylinder. Your bike is likely making a few more horsepower than his, your bike won't dirty the oil nearly as quickly over time, your bike gets better fuel economy, your bike has higher compression ratio (my a small fraction). That's how this works. Sure you can swap riders back and forth in the process of elimination of riding talent, but I doubt the outcome would be any different "on average."
It could be the bike programming for your riding style, which is why you reset it after break in to reflect your riding style. You can make the throttle snatchy or slower response.
@@NoName-c4y7h Are you referring to computer learning? That's on automobiles, that isn't on motorcycles.
Many years as a motorcycle mechanic. I always told new owners to find a twisty road and ride it at 70 percent. By the by Kevin mentioned John Cornwell in an episode I think I worked with his dad in Toronto.and have photos taken by his mom on my wall. F21 Kawi sherpa t etc. If same Jon remember him riding a cut down S 65 Honda as a kid
Best technical motorcycle show yet! Very fun to listen to, always learn something new from C.W
Much knowledge, beautifully communicated! Bravo gentlemen.
Excellent discussion.
I'm just a clockmaker with a diploma in horology, built recon engines before unleaded fuels.
The algorithm works best if you like and comment on subjects of interest.
On the aircraft engines you measure your rings at top dead center because of the choke. Also when I let the engine rest at altitude I pull a vacuum to draw oil up around the rings. Never once have I ever had to remove cylinder after overhaul.
What?
I'm grateful to hear explained the process I'd settled on years ago doing research on this subject, as I have broken in a half dozen new motorcycle engines. Also having worked a mechanical engineering career a couple decades, naturally I like to know stuff. Most recent business was a business working in high tolerance machined parts in the motion industry. Working in the world of minimum 3-place decimals, and up to 5-place decimals, you get used to thinking in a land of microscopic reality (and some theory). Also took an introductory metallurgy class at a well established local foundry, where the brain was definitely stretched regarding metals and how they are created. Taking things from 3D models, to blueprint, to machining operations, to finished products is quite a process.
One of the things I'd hoped you gentlemen would have touched upon was heat-cycles in new engines as related to this break-in process. It would seem to me that all the things discussed are what's occurring between surfaces, but heat cycles ensure that assembled engine parts go through a range of relative mating distance (thermal expansion and contraction), also any alloys and steels in that engine will stress-relieve and stop changing shape after initial temperature (and vibration) are subjected to the system. The microscopic changes occurring in modern new engines happen on a graphed curve, and the slope is most steep early in use, and levels off dramatically quickly, with very small changes happening in long periods of time.
In most modern motorcycle engines, you're dealing with mating transmission gears, mating piston rings with cylinder walls, and mating camshaft lobes with tappets. The majority of "asperities" will get flushed down the system in the first couple dozen miles and it's important to change oil very early to remove the stuff the filter isn't going to trap. Also don't forget the wet clutch plates and discs getting happy together shedding a majority of their asperity garbage early on.
Great timing for me. Picked up a new hyper 950 SP yesterday.
Great and very informative shows. Made even better when Mr Cameron brings in show and tell parts and pieces.
In relation to this episode I had my newly acquired sport bike R1 run in on a dyno before ever riding myself. Can’t imagine running in a sport bike in traffic.
Thanks again.
Interesting break-in video, thanks. I remember reading about break-in, in Cycle World Magazine years ago. You guys are the experts, thanks for the tips over the years.
With my 3 bikes so far, I would ride as normal in the first 300 miles with the exception of trying not to keep the revs in one spot for more than five seconds at a time, just to vary the revs more. But I'd go above the 35 mph speed they suggested for my 250's as I needed to hit the freeways at 65+ mph to get to work back then.
Results? No engine issues from 0 to 35,000+ miles earned on each of my 2 Ninja 250's over the years, traded in for my new '21 Ninja 650, which is broken in already and running great so far.
I don't think it is necessary to run in todays modern bikes. Ride it normally, don't abuse it but ride it ! The tolerances and finishes are so good these days.
I like to find a nice long piece of downhill, get the revs around 70% in a mid gear and then close and open the throttle to get an alternating strong vacuum and high pressure inside the cylinder.
Is the 4th gear will be suitable for this?
@@Ventcis The engine isn’t under any load, so any gear between 2/3/4th. Don’t let it redline and watch any manufactures recommendations aren’t exceeded.
what took these conversations so long !?...... shoul'da happened years ago. this is priceless !.......thx.
Whitney Blakeslee told me a story about BMW race mechanics not putting the cylinders on the bike until the morning of the race and they wouldn’t lubricate the cylinders so the bikes would break in a lot faster that way by the time practice was over the bikes were all broken and ready to race. I tried it it works.
When I bought a 23 Honda Goldwing bagger DCT the manual said first oil and filters (engine and DCT clutch) change at 4,000 miles! Ok so I'm old and I said what??!! I brought it in at ~700 miles and had the service done because mentally I wasn't ready for asperities and oil additives. Maybe it takes 4,000 miles to get things to get where they need to be. I'll go back for the next change at 4,000 miles. Well my first bike was a 1970 Bridgestone 200 cc scrambler. That 2-stroke smoked like there were cigars in the pipes. It was fun though. Thanks for your thoughts.
Can’t watch right now, I’ve gotta clear my schedule for full attention to see if I’ve been doing it right all these years.
Wonderful conversation, thanks. I miss my regular CW arrivals and the associated front to back read, starting with Cameron and Egan. It was a magic time for Moto journalism and knowledge transfer. I recall when you arrived Mr Hoyer, it was obviously a good hire. Thanks. Now, bring that back.
The evolution of motorcycle brakes would be a great show, as well as transmissions. I thought I heard MotoGp uses something called seamless shift gearboxes with essentially no loss of drive torque when shifting, I will have to check that out again. I think they said it had poor life however so wouldn't be suitable for motorcycles sold to the public.
Great content! Hope people will take this to heart. Whenever I say it no one listens 😅
My most recent fuel injector design was kicking my butt given the customer requirements for pressure capability and response time, etc. I kept trying different things until one worked! Eureka! It's so satisfying when you make a breakthrough. Funny enough it was something I'd seen done 28 years ago. It wasn't until I had enough sleepless nights that my subconscious dredged it up.
This is brilliant!
Great to see and hear you two with practical knowledge discuss a topic that is near and dear to me.
Thanks so much...
Thank you. Great discussion.
I have a documented Kenny Augustine Triumph. I'd love to have someone see it before I croak. Great story behind it. Raber approved and that's hard to get. bc
Thank you for valuable content!
Early Commandos had some cam/lifter issues. Dealers were told to immediately run the engine to 3000rpm and hold it there 30min. They tend to smoke.
"Looking as this now" - your description of the guy with the coal fire hammering on the frames is exactly the one that built the frame of my 2016 HD CVO SG ... Was quite a drama to finally lemonization.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:23 *🛠️ Engine Break-in is a debated topic, focusing on achieving peak performance and longevity for motorcycle engines.*
01:45 *🛢️ Traditional engine break-in involved wear particles in oil, but modern oils with anti-wear additives have changed this process.*
03:35 *🚗 Anti-wear additives in modern oils can hinder traditional break-in methods, leading to excess oil consumption and low performance if not done correctly.*
08:45 *⚙️ Proper break-in results in intimate contact between piston rings and cylinder walls, crucial for good sealing and longevity.*
15:38 *🛢️ Using modern oils with high anti-wear additives may not be suitable for old engines or engines with specific break-in requirements.*
18:28 *🔧 Dry assembly and controlled break-in procedures on dynos are common in racing to achieve optimal performance and longevity.*
23:14 *🏍️ Factory engines have evolved with precise manufacturing, reducing the need for extensive break-in procedures seen in older engines.*
26:19 *🏍️ New motorcycle engines are well-manufactured and close to finished by the time they are sold, requiring proper treatment rather than extreme break-in methods.*
27:51 *🚗 Treat new motorcycle engines right following the manufacturer's break-in recommendations for safe and optimal performance.*
28:18 *🏍️ Adding some combustion pressure during break-in can lead to improved performance and lower oil consumption in motorcycles, creating a smoother and happier engine.*
31:00 *🚗 The use of a plateau finish in engine bores can reduce wear particles, improving engine longevity and performance by maintaining better contact between piston rings and cylinder walls.*
35:21 *🏍️ Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for engine break-in to allow piston rings to seat properly, ensuring optimal performance and longevity without overthinking the process.*
Just discovered these POD casts, Fabulous, I LOVE listening and have learned a ton of stuff in the last few days!!
after 13 years of doing break in miles for Triumph West Coast test fleet, over 220 bikes, I could feel when they were broken in, nothing tangible, just seat of the pants, rode conservatively for 50 miles then how bike was ultimately designed, never a problem and after applying it to my own rides, never a problem....the argument goes on.
With 50 + years in the aviation engine building and motorcycle building nichasil and air cooling does not mix. Aircraft cylinders are never very straight and they are nitride and tapered. Yes we run the first five to ten hours on straight mineral oil muti viscosity . Also high power settings ..... lower rpms high manifold pressure s with resting. I just did one today.
I did NOT watch the video before commenting. I run 'em like I stole 'em from day one!
Thankyou gentlemen, a very learned and comfortable way to start the day.
Can KC do a deep dive on MotoGP ride height devices? please
Good watch! Shared accordingly.
You know, and I think that everyone would agree, if you want a fast motorcycle you break-in Fast ! This is my Final Word on this subject.
Excellent, thanks
I don't see the problem, the only thing that'll happen is break-in will be delayed... I'm gonna follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Anyway, good discussion.
KC is a legend amongst legends.
Better to rev than labour an engine. But you break an engine in to keep your warranty (damn you snitching ECU).
Ironically, a motorbike rental owner told me in San Diego about 20 years ago when I rented a BMW boxer with only a few miles on its clock, that I should ride it hard to minimize oil consumption for the rest of the life of the bike. I had my own boxer R1100S at home in Europe which consumed a lot of oil and the exhaust was always black from carbon deposit. So when I got home I searched the internet on the topic and found that opposite opinions were in a 50-50% distribution. I found the reasoning convincing (the same we could hear here), and since then I ran-in all cars and motorbikes the familiy got as new this way: I made sure I picked up the new vehicle from the dealer on a day when I could get into the nearest twisty, hilly road avoiding much city traffic, and drive the first 100 kilometers there, revving to the red line for a second then ease up, changing gears, accelerating and decelerating hard like a rallye driver. I took risk with the first vehicle but the method proved itself with flying colors when my next BMW boxer (R1200GS) did not consume oil between the annual inspections at all, in the next 14 years (!). The previous one drank about 0.7 liter oil on 1000 kilometers. One of the reasons I never bought used vehicles was that it would not be me running-in, and after the first 100 kilometers it is done, you cannot change it's status until you rebuild the engine. The worst possible run-in to avoid at all cost is to drive/ride the first 100 kilometers on a motorway with steady speed (steady rpm). I am happy to have found this video that supports my understanding and real-life experience of running-in engines. Thanks for it!
And I wanted to share my own experience with about 6 cars and 3 bikes that fully support the hard (and varied) running-in theory, even owning such vehicle for 14 years so one cannot say that, ok, it consumes less oil but the engine might get damaged or stuck on the long run.
It's a pity that by the time I got long-term positive experience with this, my next car might not have a petrol engine at all...
It's all in the owner's manual. People don't read them, or if they do, they don't do what it says.
Gents, how about some visuals of "60 degree cross hatching, etc?"
I remember breaking in my RF350 rings every 5000 miles or so.
Took a while before the little engine would scream.
I would like to try an experiment where I could pin the rings, possibly just the top compression ring, in the grooves and then assess the data on blow by and leak down.
This would be for a race engine only, that wuld be rebuilt every 5,000km or so.
My theory is that is difficult to get a piston ring to seal and conform perfectly to the cylinder bore surface when in rotates 3 to 4 rpm during operation.
First time i've heard of someone else using Cratex rubber abrasive .
Thanks for your comment. I didn’t catch the brand name. My high school machine shop teacher (1971-1974) taught us how to polish away very light surface rust with such a device.
@@Larpy1933 Cratex was the brand , i used it for polishing the carb. and other things , paint removal , plus copper pipe when soldering . I used it with my Dremel .
Owner's Manual. Owner's Manual.
So a question arises…
2002 Honda 200XR. NEW Piston , Rings. Did not touch lower end. How to break it in? Non Synthetic and take it to the Vintage Hare Scramble?
It’ll break in nice? Then change oil and run semi syn?
Mike Hailwood said he didn't know or care what was going on in his engine? Hard to believe that a Manx could be ridden that way.
So İtalian tune up is legit.
Yep it's a thing
Türk müsün
Evet
@@gardemeister selam o zaman yüksek devre devam :D
@@Erunanethiel Aynen :)
I think break-in technique varies between air cooled and liquid cooled engines. Air cooled engines can overheat quicker during break-in, which is bad, so riding short, easy rides varyiig throttle is best until about 300 miles are ridden.
No, that isn’t correct. The break-in procedure is still the same. High cylinder pressure for short periods of time to knock off the high spots, then slow speeds for a time to allow dissipation of heat and wear particles. Riding easy will tend to glaze the cylinders rather than wear them in and that is bad.
Read and follow the instructions in the owner's manual for YOUR particular machine. Different alloys, lubricants, machining tolerances, engine specifications "factory run in" protocols and different cross hatching all play a role. A large team of engineers conspire to produce your engine. If you think second guessing them is a good idea, ignore everything that's written in the handbook.
@@davidbrayshaw3529 Excellent advice, I totally agree Sir. I went with what my engine builder told me to do for the break-in period and it worked fine. I wouldn't suggest going by what "some guy" told me to do.
@@tomconte1765 I should have added engine builder to manufacturer.
They know what's required.
break in oil has to be dino and run that for first few oil changes if you want to move to synthetic ?/
No, it doesn’t. Many cars, Corvette being one, come from the factory with synthetic. So do most new Toyotas.
Careful making assumptions about engines as a whole, because X or Y manufacturer does something you perceive as a whole.
The first batch of oil in vehicles is often containing compounds related to the break-in process, and is not the same oil you'll get from the spout at your local Valvoline Quick-change shop. It's not so much about the synthetic base stock of the oil, as it is about avoiding unwanted additive ingredients that prohibit the "lapping" that occurs early.
Reason for this is, when asperities bang into each other, that zinc additive (ZDDP) coats them. This is an unwanted effect. The abrasive collisions and breaking off of microscopic particles is a GOOD thing, it's how ring surfaces will get as close to the cylinder walls as possible.
The question is about synthetic vs non. The assumption is being made that all synthetics contain these additives and non-synthetics do not. Uninformed assumption. Your research will be required to understand the nuanced detail. Short answer: run inexpensive non-synthetics oil with the necessary wet-clutch rating as you're likely to dump this oil early anyway to flush out particulates. I'd hold off on the high quality expensive synthetic racing oils for later when the process is basically complete (like 1200 miles). Your engine will feel quite happy by 800 or miles anyway. I've changed my oil 3 times before 1200 miles and each time flushed out particulates, each time less and less. Oil is cheap. Shaping an engine the best way possible is priceless.
@@exothermal.sprocket No new engine is going to come with oil loaded with ZDDP. Yes, engines are different and may well have different requirements. I never suggested otherwise. My comment was simply pointing out that the OP was wrong when stating an absolute like “break in oil has to be dino.” It doesn’t and I gave two examples where it isn’t. You are trying to put a lot of words in my mouth that I never said. You should actually read a comment and understand it before replying to it.
@@LTVoyager If you're offended, that's your decision. I never intended that.
@@exothermal.sprocket I’m never offended by anything anyone writes on the internet. I’m simply pointing out your errors and suggesting how you can avoid them in the future.
No matter what the topic, there's always someone who can segue in "I ride my bike hard" 😂😂 some sort of masculine validation or something like that 🤔
S&S 132 CI with less than 1000 miles blowing oil out both heads, pooling under the bike, and all over my boots. Whatcha think???
Sounds like your new motor has bad blowby/poor ring seal issues with oil coming out the breathers on both heads.
Could also be an issue with a blocked crankcase breather system forcing additional oil vapor out of breathers.
Good luck.
if it's a Milwaukee 8 you need to vent oil filler cap
No idea what S&S parts engineers do to their engines, as compared to say, Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, BMW, Aprilia, KTM etc. do to their internal engine parts. Does S&S run electroplated alloy cylinders or iron sleeves? What compression ratio are they from factory? Who do they use for piston ring manufacturers?
Ride it.
2 stroke tuning
😮🎉 Dr.
ride it like you stole it !
Smart guy - paving the floor with basketballs & then trying to walk. Those are the atoms, not smooth no matter how much polishing....
PAY KEVIN MORE
🏍👍👍👍
Engines built today 2024 aint the same as built in 1950s. Case solved.😄👍
Much talk about a non-existent problem. How many engines are you seeing that have rings that do not seat? ZERO
Modern alloys, modern machining, modern "factory break ins", modern lubricants. Just do what it says in the owner's manual. It wasn't always like this, though.
Sadly this video is so full of errors that I cannot continue to watch !!
How so?
Actually, you are so full of ignorance that you can’t handle the truth.
My dad back the 60's 70's 80's would keep a book and calculate his gas mileage and would refuse to get a tune up until he noticed his gas mileage drop off 1/3-1/2 mile per gallon. Back in points days and when every dealer would try and tune up your car every 12K it made sense. As he drove on varying amount of road trips depending on the time of year we would do a 500 mile gramma visits. so he would get a tune up's around 20K + - 5K when he needed a third tune up he would trade in the the 70K Oldmobubbe as he called Oldsmobile's. He paid for two tune ups probably one transmission change and then buy a new one every four years. His new cars-he would have the dealer put on stiffer shocks and radial tires before they were Std.
Service manager Kawasaki, Laverda, Jawa CZ & rat shops. 50 miles & rings are set, now if you are a speedster then hard & fast or just or put around for long life! easy break-in then hard riding it will blow!
Chris Moore @mooremafia pro tuner drag racer - youtube says heat cycles rev 3-5 k rpms for 15 sec then idle do it again again X10 AT full heat let cool do it again to 7k rpms - 5-7 cycles then ride it ride normal .. change break in oil change then all good ! then dont be scarred to rev it after - run little hard cheers
Yes, and other competitor tuners are having to fix his messy ECU flashes as well. I'd take with a grain of salt what a celebrity TH-cam man says about break-in. Chris runs fast bikes for sure, but he gets a TON of help from unnamed people.
Follow manufacturer/ builder recommendations. That is the golden rule. There are so many variables from alloys used in the cylinder and rings, temperature extremes and heat cycles, machining tolerances, lubricants used in the assembly process, lubricants used in the initial run, lubricants used in the run in period and I've probably missed a few.
There is no "one size fits all" way of running in an engine.
I wouldn't know who Chis Moore is from a bar of soap, but I'm highly sceptical of any suggestion of not running an engine under some load not long after the first start. It's almost
a guaranteed way to polish the bore to some extent. This was a problem that rebuilders faced back in the good old days when we put reco engines in our cars.
They were expensive, and customers would treat them with kid gloves when they first got the car back. They'd idle them for five minutes or so and then ever so gently
drive down the road with a sign in the back window stating, "Breaking In, Slow Vehicle". The sign should have read: "polishing bores, taking car back to reco shop in a month to complain about excessive oil consumption and a lack of power".
@@davidbrayshaw3529 Manufacturer's #1 concern is protection from lawsuits and legal penalties. That's why they wrote up the broad "break-in" procedure which is 98% about the new rider getting used to their new bike, and 2% about getting the most from an engine.
@@exothermal.sprocket I don't deny that some manufacturers adopt that strategy for that reason. But they also have to be able warranty their products, so I'd suggest that it's a bit of a balancing act from their perspective.
I have some background in aviation maintenance and the run in procedures are written in stone (and blood!) in that game.
I've also had the luxury of spending a lot of time with a former WRC mechanic/machinist and have been privy to a couple of run ins in his recently completed projects.
I would never run an engine under zero load for any extended period of time given the knowledge that has been imparted on me courtesy of this exposure.
@@davidbrayshaw3529 While aviation engines and motorcycle engines have a lot of common parts doing very similar things, the two applications are very different in terms of what the engine is exposed to by environment, by common use, by load frequencies. The consequences between an aircraft engine failure and a motorcycle engine failure are also extremely different. Aircraft industries who fail to meet criteria will kill pilots, almost a guarantee. The same cannot be said about motorcycles.
As always thanks for the discussion guys! These are great podcasts !
Bought a new 2020 Yamaha star venture a couple years ago. I hit the rev limiter 4 times on the way home because I was not used to riding a bike with such a low speed engine compared to the sport tour bikes I was used to. Didn’t seem to hurt it I have over 50,000 kms on it now. I guess that was the right way to break it in.
How about the brilliant minds that make the tools?
oops!, i;ve always honed dry.
Gday gentlemen
I’ve only just found your podcast on Spotify a week ago and love it. I don’t understand all the technical jargon on engine building etc, but I love engineering and everyday is a day to learn.
I’d like to give you a thumbs up on Spotify, but have no clue how to do that.
I rev it to max rpm till i see the exhaust glowing to establish that im the boss and that motor don't stop till i say!