Only tip I would add is to join the chain more in the middle of the sprocket. It will help to hold the chain where you need it while you install the master link. Bike is looking good.
great DIY Link!!! ill run 520's on my race bikes. less rotational mass is always good. hope your out breaking her in right now just enjoying the weekend
To anyone wondering you don’t need a grinder or dermal tool I have a much cheaper chain breaker than he uses in the video and it pushes the pins out fine no grinding needed just make sure it’s center or it will bend the prong on the breaker
@@barbados1267 for sure. You don’t have to grind it. My chain breaker tool was like $20. And it prob would have done it. Just didn’t want to bend the dowels. You are correct! Thanks for watching.
Great video man! one thing i would go back and check is that chain tension though, its lookin a little tight. You can either do the quick and dirty 2 finger method and put your fingers between the chain and the upper section of chain slider where the screw mounts the slider to the swing arm. Or if you like to be accurate it should be around 1.25-1.50 inches of slack. After you have that done sit on the bike and it should still have a little slack in it. To much tension on the chain is going to cause premature wear on the sprockets and chain and 100% take your counter shaft seal out fast!
Will do! After I took it off the stand, it’s good. There’s play in it like there should be. I appreciate you looking out. I actually just checked and re lubed it today. She’s all good.Have a great day and go do some riding! 💪🏼
@@linksgarage1985 for sure man, just watching out. Ive had way to many friends run chains way to tight. as long as she dosent pull tight why the swing arm is traveling you are good. Just got home from riding my 2020 400sm🤙
@@elementboi151 on my 2019 SM stock setup my chain is rubbing on that screw that holds the chain slider guide on top of the swing arm. The chain actually grinded into that washer but hasn’t hit the head of the screw.. there’s damage to my chain also. What would cause this?
Hey man question for you. I put the same chain on and the mastrlink just nicks the plastic on the guard under the swing arm. Ever heard of this? Wondering can I space with a washer.Great videos bro I watch them all! Thanks
First, thanks for watching! I appreciate it. And no, I sure haven’t heard of that one. Mine doesn’t hit. Not sure why yours does. Let me know what you find out!
I agree. There isnt enough slack in that chain. There will be tremendous stress added to the countershaft and its bearing with the chain being that tight. As you said in accordance with the service manual the chain tension should be measure at the mid point from the bottom of the swingarm. There should be 1.6-2.0" or 40-50mm of freeplay in the chain. As for axel postion if you bring it forward more towards a 0 stance (in the middle of the slot) the bike will become more responsive and want to bring the front up more and feel more torqy. Having the rear axel pushed farther back increasing the wheelbase will make it feel more planted and have more compression on the rear making it also feel softer and more stable. In motocross we use the rear axel postion terms +1 / 0 / -1. Having a neutral axel postion often feels much better overall.
Because it was easier to adjust and not modify chain. Didn’t even have to move it 1/32nd of an inch. I can always remove links in the future if I need to. The tension is good, and the chain is doing great. Thanks for watching!
So In the video you stated that if you had to shorten the chain you would but I’m wondering how you go about doing that without grinding the pins because I am switching to a 38t rear I will have to shorten my DID chain unfortunately.
Sorry I didn’t film it. It wasn’t to bad. For me personally, getting it back in was a pain. Lots of good videos out there. Removal, easy. Install, pain. Just remember this, “it’s just nuts and bolts” cheers mate! Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
I think the spec is 1.6 to 2 inches. Just push up in the chain on the bottom. It should move about 1.5 inches or so. You should be good. It should not be tight!
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I gotta say bro, I’ve probably done every mod you have, and watched every video, you make the work easy with your how to vids. Thanks my brother!!
Hell yea! Thanks bro. I appreciate you watching. Need anything, holler! 💪🏼
Only tip I would add is to join the chain more in the middle of the sprocket. It will help to hold the chain where you need it while you install the master link. Bike is looking good.
Thank you!!!!
great DIY Link!!! ill run 520's on my race bikes. less rotational mass is always good. hope your out breaking her in right now just enjoying the weekend
Hell yea!!!!! Almost 3k miles since April. I’m enjoying the crap out of it.
To anyone wondering you don’t need a grinder or dermal tool I have a much cheaper chain breaker than he uses in the video and it pushes the pins out fine no grinding needed just make sure it’s center or it will bend the prong on the breaker
@@barbados1267 for sure. You don’t have to grind it. My chain breaker tool was like $20. And it prob would have done it. Just didn’t want to bend the dowels. You are correct! Thanks for watching.
@@linksgarage1985 🤘
Another great video. Thanks for doing what you do.
Thank you!!! I appreciate you guys watching and commenting!
Great video man! one thing i would go back and check is that chain tension though, its lookin a little tight. You can either do the quick and dirty 2 finger method and put your fingers between the chain and the upper section of chain slider where the screw mounts the slider to the swing arm. Or if you like to be accurate it should be around 1.25-1.50 inches of slack. After you have that done sit on the bike and it should still have a little slack in it. To much tension on the chain is going to cause premature wear on the sprockets and chain and 100% take your counter shaft seal out fast!
Will do! After I took it off the stand, it’s good. There’s play in it like there should be. I appreciate you looking out. I actually just checked and re lubed it today. She’s all good.Have a great day and go do some riding! 💪🏼
@@linksgarage1985 for sure man, just watching out. Ive had way to many friends run chains way to tight. as long as she dosent pull tight why the swing arm is traveling you are good. Just got home from riding my 2020 400sm🤙
@@elementboi151 HELL YEA!!!!!!💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
@@elementboi151 on my 2019 SM stock setup my chain is rubbing on that screw that holds the chain slider guide on top of the swing arm. The chain actually grinded into that washer but hasn’t hit the head of the screw.. there’s damage to my chain also. What would cause this?
Hey man question for you. I put the same chain on and the mastrlink just nicks the plastic on the guard under the swing arm. Ever heard of this? Wondering can I space with a washer.Great videos bro I watch them all! Thanks
First, thanks for watching! I appreciate it. And no, I sure haven’t heard of that one. Mine doesn’t hit. Not sure why yours does. Let me know what you find out!
Master link pins stick out a hair more then the other links. Just ground a bit off plastic on guard and all good doesn’t touch.
Hey great video and content. Quick question did your bike pop when letting off on the throttle when you put the delkevic exhaust on?
It did until I jetted it and did the 3x3
@@linksgarage1985 my bike only has 40 miles on it.
@@vitalyyuro I did mine at 400
that chain looks like its on a sportbike the manual calls for 1.6 to 2 inches of play...
I agree. There isnt enough slack in that chain. There will be tremendous stress added to the countershaft and its bearing with the chain being that tight. As you said in accordance with the service manual the chain tension should be measure at the mid point from the bottom of the swingarm. There should be 1.6-2.0" or 40-50mm of freeplay in the chain. As for axel postion if you bring it forward more towards a 0 stance (in the middle of the slot) the bike will become more responsive and want to bring the front up more and feel more torqy. Having the rear axel pushed farther back increasing the wheelbase will make it feel more planted and have more compression on the rear making it also feel softer and more stable. In motocross we use the rear axel postion terms +1 / 0 / -1. Having a neutral axel postion often feels much better overall.
Why didnt you shorten the chain a few links and bring the axle further forward?
Because it was easier to adjust and not modify chain. Didn’t even have to move it 1/32nd of an inch. I can always remove links in the future if I need to. The tension is good, and the chain is doing great. Thanks for watching!
So In the video you stated that if you had to shorten the chain you would but I’m wondering how you go about doing that without grinding the pins because I am switching to a 38t rear I will have to shorten my DID chain unfortunately.
Just grind the pins and remove a link. And hook it all back up with a master link. That’s the only way I know how to do it.
Hi I was wondering where can I get a chain guide like urs on top of the Swingarm
eBay has lots of them.
Can you do a how to install axel sliders ?
Where did you get your upper chain buffer from?
It’s the stock one.
Where did you get the graphics for the bike? I'm looking for wheel graphics also.
Hey sorry to bother you was curious how hard was it to remove and reinstall the carb back in
Sorry I didn’t film it. It wasn’t to bad. For me personally, getting it back in was a pain. Lots of good videos out there. Removal, easy. Install, pain. Just remember this, “it’s just nuts and bolts” cheers mate! Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Bro where can i get this front spocket protector?
The factory one?
How much slack should be in the chain? And what’s the best way to determine this? I’m new to this
I think the spec is 1.6 to 2 inches. Just push up in the chain on the bottom. It should move about 1.5 inches or so. You should be good. It should not be tight!
what jack is that?
Made by Tusk. Works great