The magic of modern day life is the fact that I can browse around and find myself a friendly mechanic for emotional support while I am repairing my bike. I never feel lonely now 😊 when Calvin MC is around and the confidence he gives me with all that knowledge and those blue eyes 😂 just make my day perfect 👍 I love modern day TH-cam magic!!!🎉❤😂
Hi Calvin just a couple of tips from an old timer. When removing the front sprocket nut leave the bike on the sidestand with rear wheel on the ground & chain still intact, foot on the rear brake allowing greater leverage. Had many a seized sprocket nut which would have been virtually impossible to remove without this method. One more point, the screw type rivets are designed not to be overtightened ( nut solid one end) & tighten rivets directly on rear sprocket with the chain faily tight this stops the chain from moving while wrenching. Really enjoying the videos 😁 Keep them coming!
Great tips for a frozen front sprocket nut. You're right, if I had the master link on the rear sprocket I wouldn't have had to fight it so much... doh! Thanks for the tips, glad you're enjoying the videos!
Thanks Calvin & Chris. I haven't swapped one yet, can I ask, how to judge the correct tightness of chain, do you pull back wheel all the way back or in the middle? Also should I not grind off excecess waste on the chain rivets?
Found a 2006 fz6 for $1200 that I was able to knock down to $800 that looks like it needs a new chain along with some other tlc , this video definitely helps thanks man 🤝🏽
Great video. The only thing I would do different, is I wouldn't torque the front sprocket against the transmission like that. I'd have snugged it up, gotten the rear tire + sprocket installed, then the chain, and once the chain is on and at the proper slack, lower the rear tire on the ground and THEN torque the front sprocket to spec so the resistance is applied to the chain and tire instead of the transmission. But I also overthink things so who knows.
@@padraigmcconnell7015 I was going to write out every single detail on how to do it, but this video gives a perfect example. Chain slack on the 2003 r6 is between 1.38inch and 1.78 inch btw. th-cam.com/video/RA6OPG_cFms/w-d-xo.html
I highly recommend RK chain tool - it had no issues with breaking out the pins from the chains without grinding off the head. It also has a "limiter" of the pin flare which makes sure that you are not going to "overflare" them, even if you do not measure with the calipers. When it comes to chains, avoid DID - their quality plummeted and multiple people (including me) complained of faulty xrings which started breaking apart for no reason (and no, I did not use any suspicious agents on the chain and I was religious about lubing it. My previous chain did not have this issue and was in much worse shape at the end of its life and my current one runs on scottoiler and is still strong after 20 ths km of life). Fortunately DID reviewed my complaint and returned me the money through the shop that I bought the chain from.
Hi Calvin. Thanks for this video showing the procedure and technique to keep our FZ6s on roads!! One cuestion...Do you know the spare part number for the sprocket nut and washer? Can you show me a picture of it? I had an incident and I lost the sprocket nut and had to walk home for 2 miles.....Thanks in advance...
Hey! I find all my part numbers on partsfish.com. I've linked it below to the rear wheel assembly that includes the part numbers you're looking for. Nut p/n: 90185-10009-00 washer p/n:90201-10021-00 link: www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045b97f8700209bc794162/rear-wheel
Is it not possible to replace the chain without 'breaking' the links? Just have the chain hooked on the sprockets and install those while it is on it? Or do chains always come 'open' and you have to size then yourself?
Most chains come open and require a river tool to close them. If you don’t want to break the chain you could take the swing arm out and that will allow a complete chain to be removed.
So last weekend I started doing my chain job and when I got to the part of screwing back the rear sprocket, surprise... the torque of 100nm (from the service manual) ruined the thread on all 6 screws. now I need to replace the studs or the entire rear wheel hub... I have a 2006 fz6. So I am not so sure on that 72ft/lbs torque spec, as I read that I'm not the only one having this issue.
This video will help me a lot. HAve to work on the chain for sure. Itś ratteling, so it will need replacement. I only need to recalculate the torque specs to metrics. And see if the chain brand and type is available in the Netherlands
Thank you so, so, so much for these videos, they are life (and bank acc.) saving for me! after I swore never to bring my FZ6 back for maintenance to the main local garage that ripped me off in the beginning. Been learning to do it all myself. If you ever consider making a patreon or something for the content I would gladly pay to subscribe. cheers from Ireland - Ro
I'm glad the videos have been helpful! It can be very rewarding being self-sufficient with the maintenance and servicing of your own bike! Thanks for you kind words :) If I ever do a patreon I'll let you know haha
When I store my bike over the winter I fill the tank with a premium gas that doesn't have any ethanol in it so that it is less likely to absorb water into the fuel. Some people use a fuel stabilizer but as Ryan F9 on the Fortnine channel showed, most of those fuel stabilizers are bogus so do your research. I also have installed a battery tender and I charge the battery every month or so just to keep it happy. I lube the chain after the last ride to prevent any rust from forming. Finally, I roll the bike onto a different spot on the tires once a month to prevent the tires from flat spotting if I have to store it on the side stand for some reason. Glad you enjoy the videos!
1/2” is good for most of the things to do with drivetrain stuff like chain and sprocket. Unless you get a high end digital torque wrench you will need two wrenches a 3/8” one and a 1/2” to cover the range or torque specs on a bike like the FZ6. A good quality torque wrench is a great investment though!
Hey Calvin! Love the content. Like many others, I recently bought a used fz6 and your videos have been incredibly helpful. I have been watching them at random and I love to see that you got the torque wrench out for this one! lol, any chance you need to replace your fuel filter soon? I think i need to, but i havent found video instructions that are anywhere near as thorough as yours.
Glad you have found the videos helpful! I don’t have any plans soon to replace the fuel filter unfortunately. I think the fuel filter is similar to a cars intake filter sock that clips onto the intake of the pump.
It seems (only) my front sprocket has been worn down, the rear and chain itself are in very good condition.. do i need to replace everything or can I just replace the front sprocket? also, what are you using to safely remove all the oil and sticky muc without potentially damaging seals/orings/rubbers/paint?
It’s recommend to replace all three components at the same time or else the old chain will accelerate the wear on your new sprocket. I was using parts cleaner in an aerosol bottle but you could also use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol. Both work but with enough rubbing they will eventually remove paint. I scrapped as much muc off before using the parts cleaner. Good luck!
Thanks for great videos. I've just purchased a Yamaha '07 FZ6-s myself. After seeing alot of your vids I've understood that I finally have a good reason to buy a torque wrench. Do you think I can suffice with buying only one wrench? Is there common torque span that should cover all/most of the maintenance jobs on a FZ6-s?
If you got a torque wrench that could do 15-100 ft-lbs you’d be set for most bolts on the bike. With that said it can be hard to find an affordable torque wrench that can do that range. You either have to spend a lot on a digital torque wrench that can do everything or get two click type torque wrenches that do different ranges. Snap on makes a digital torque wrench that’ll do 15-300 ft-lbs but it costs around $1000... I’d recommend picking up a 1/2” drive torque wrench for the larger fasteners on the bike to start
Me: collecting confidence to change my oil and filter alone.... meanwhile.... ColinMC: ".. I'm going to take off this, than I'm gonna take off this and that. And about this one I dunno is it's gonna be needed but I'm taking it off!!! Me: 😮
Don't you have to rivet the master link? I do not see how the final plate of the master link is held in place other than the force you pressed it on the silver coloured rods. There is nothing to stop them slide off after movement over time?
The EK chain does not require a riveting tool or a typical riveting process. You're right it does seem odd that nothing is on the outside of the chain that would secure the side plate but after reading many reviews both long term and short term I have faith in the system. Some people who use a the EK chain thread a nut on (with loctite) that matches the remaining two threads on the chain so that there is something mechanically binding the outer link. This extra nut isn't outlined in EK's instruction though.
The amount of grease You use on that chain is enought to lubricate 10 chains, all of this will fell of after You reach 120km/h because off g-force :P But overall good content and video.
The magic of modern day life is the fact that I can browse around and find myself a friendly mechanic for emotional support while I am repairing my bike. I never feel lonely now 😊 when Calvin MC is around and the confidence he gives me with all that knowledge and those blue eyes 😂 just make my day perfect 👍 I love modern day TH-cam magic!!!🎉❤😂
Wow thanks so much! Happy to help you through your repairs👍
Hi Calvin just a couple of tips from an old timer.
When removing the front sprocket nut leave the bike on the sidestand with rear wheel on the ground & chain still intact, foot on the rear brake allowing greater leverage.
Had many a seized sprocket nut which would have been virtually impossible to remove without this method.
One more point, the screw type rivets are designed not to be overtightened ( nut solid one end) & tighten rivets directly on rear sprocket with the chain faily tight this stops the chain from moving while wrenching.
Really enjoying the videos 😁 Keep them coming!
Great tips for a frozen front sprocket nut. You're right, if I had the master link on the rear sprocket I wouldn't have had to fight it so much... doh! Thanks for the tips, glad you're enjoying the videos!
Thanks Calvin & Chris. I haven't swapped one yet, can I ask, how to judge the correct tightness of chain, do you pull back wheel all the way back or in the middle? Also should I not grind off excecess waste on the chain rivets?
Found a 2006 fz6 for $1200 that I was able to knock down to $800 that looks like it needs a new chain along with some other tlc , this video definitely helps thanks man 🤝🏽
Awesome man! Happy to hear this 👍
Exactly same situation here 😂lol Only I only got it down to $1k 😢
LOL this also happened to me. Im from Gibraltar, we use £. found one for 1000 and got it for 850. Had new chain and sprockets too :D
I'm always learning so much new information when watching your content. thank you
Happy to hear this! 👍
Great video. The only thing I would do different, is I wouldn't torque the front sprocket against the transmission like that. I'd have snugged it up, gotten the rear tire + sprocket installed, then the chain, and once the chain is on and at the proper slack, lower the rear tire on the ground and THEN torque the front sprocket to spec so the resistance is applied to the chain and tire instead of the transmission. But I also overthink things so who knows.
Ya that method would work too. Thanks for the ideas, might use that in the future.
Brilliant. How do you get proper slack in chain please
@@padraigmcconnell7015 I was going to write out every single detail on how to do it, but this video gives a perfect example. Chain slack on the 2003 r6 is between 1.38inch and 1.78 inch btw.
th-cam.com/video/RA6OPG_cFms/w-d-xo.html
I highly recommend RK chain tool - it had no issues with breaking out the pins from the chains without grinding off the head. It also has a "limiter" of the pin flare which makes sure that you are not going to "overflare" them, even if you do not measure with the calipers.
When it comes to chains, avoid DID - their quality plummeted and multiple people (including me) complained of faulty xrings which started breaking apart for no reason (and no, I did not use any suspicious agents on the chain and I was religious about lubing it. My previous chain did not have this issue and was in much worse shape at the end of its life and my current one runs on scottoiler and is still strong after 20 ths km of life). Fortunately DID reviewed my complaint and returned me the money through the shop that I bought the chain from.
Hi Calvin. Thanks for this video showing the procedure and technique to keep our FZ6s on roads!! One cuestion...Do you know the spare part number for the sprocket nut and washer? Can you show me a picture of it? I had an incident and I lost the sprocket nut and had to walk home for 2 miles.....Thanks in advance...
Hey! I find all my part numbers on partsfish.com. I've linked it below to the rear wheel assembly that includes the part numbers you're looking for.
Nut p/n: 90185-10009-00
washer p/n:90201-10021-00
link: www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045b97f8700209bc794162/rear-wheel
Is it not possible to replace the chain without 'breaking' the links? Just have the chain hooked on the sprockets and install those while it is on it?
Or do chains always come 'open' and you have to size then yourself?
Most chains come open and require a river tool to close them. If you don’t want to break the chain you could take the swing arm out and that will allow a complete chain to be removed.
So last weekend I started doing my chain job and when I got to the part of screwing back the rear sprocket, surprise... the torque of 100nm (from the service manual) ruined the thread on all 6 screws. now I need to replace the studs or the entire rear wheel hub... I have a 2006 fz6. So I am not so sure on that 72ft/lbs torque spec, as I read that I'm not the only one having this issue.
Thats true 100 nm on that small bults and it will break 50/60nm max on them
This video will help me a lot. HAve to work on the chain for sure. Itś ratteling, so it will need replacement.
I only need to recalculate the torque specs to metrics. And see if the chain brand and type is available in the Netherlands
Thank you so, so, so much for these videos, they are life (and bank acc.) saving for me! after I swore never to bring my FZ6 back for maintenance to the main local garage that ripped me off in the beginning. Been learning to do it all myself. If you ever consider making a patreon or something for the content I would gladly pay to subscribe. cheers from Ireland - Ro
I'm glad the videos have been helpful! It can be very rewarding being self-sufficient with the maintenance and servicing of your own bike! Thanks for you kind words :) If I ever do a patreon I'll let you know haha
Cheers man, my front sprocket nut was threadlocked so we had to almost liquefy it before it started to come loose lol
Ouf, that's rough. At least it didn't rattle off while riding!
Cal, love your videos man, its the FZ6 bible of maintenance! Keep em coming
Any tips on how to winterize the FZ6 perhaps?
When I store my bike over the winter I fill the tank with a premium gas that doesn't have any ethanol in it so that it is less likely to absorb water into the fuel. Some people use a fuel stabilizer but as Ryan F9 on the Fortnine channel showed, most of those fuel stabilizers are bogus so do your research. I also have installed a battery tender and I charge the battery every month or so just to keep it happy. I lube the chain after the last ride to prevent any rust from forming. Finally, I roll the bike onto a different spot on the tires once a month to prevent the tires from flat spotting if I have to store it on the side stand for some reason. Glad you enjoy the videos!
Great video. I'm buying a tourgue wrench, any suggestions and I'm thinking a 1/2 inch size yes?
1/2” is good for most of the things to do with drivetrain stuff like chain and sprocket. Unless you get a high end digital torque wrench you will need two wrenches a 3/8” one and a 1/2” to cover the range or torque specs on a bike like the FZ6. A good quality torque wrench is a great investment though!
@@Calvinm cheers pal.
How do you know when you need a new chan and sprockets
Thank you! Best wishes and greetings from Greece!
❤️
Great video...just for curiosity what degreaser did you use for the grime...thanks
It's just some aerosol brake parts cleaner.
Would you get one that has 23,000 miles on it?
Ok, what if we turn the sprocket over to the unworn side? Theoretically this method improves sprockets live twice :)
Hey calvin, quick question about the 2 dots that need to be in line.. by in line u mean like 12 o'clock position? Thanks
Yes, you’re correct.
@@Calvinm alrigth.. keep posting though.. u are our last hope for fz6 vids.. haha
Hey Calvin!
Love the content. Like many others, I recently bought a used fz6 and your videos have been incredibly helpful. I have been watching them at random and I love to see that you got the torque wrench out for this one!
lol, any chance you need to replace your fuel filter soon? I think i need to, but i havent found video instructions that are anywhere near as thorough as yours.
Glad you have found the videos helpful! I don’t have any plans soon to replace the fuel filter unfortunately. I think the fuel filter is similar to a cars intake filter sock that clips onto the intake of the pump.
It seems (only) my front sprocket has been worn down, the rear and chain itself are in very good condition.. do i need to replace everything or can I just replace the front sprocket? also, what are you using to safely remove all the oil and sticky muc without potentially damaging seals/orings/rubbers/paint?
It’s recommend to replace all three components at the same time or else the old chain will accelerate the wear on your new sprocket. I was using parts cleaner in an aerosol bottle but you could also use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol. Both work but with enough rubbing they will eventually remove paint. I scrapped as much muc off before using the parts cleaner. Good luck!
Great video but aren't you better changing front sprocket three times to the life of chain and rear sprocket?
Very good quality videos, easy to understand. Brilliant!
Many thanks!
Another excellent demo, as always. Many thanks 👌
Thanks for great videos. I've just purchased a Yamaha '07 FZ6-s myself. After seeing alot of your vids I've understood that I finally have a good reason to buy a torque wrench. Do you think I can suffice with buying only one wrench? Is there common torque span that should cover all/most of the maintenance jobs on a FZ6-s?
If you got a torque wrench that could do 15-100 ft-lbs you’d be set for most bolts on the bike. With that said it can be hard to find an affordable torque wrench that can do that range. You either have to spend a lot on a digital torque wrench that can do everything or get two click type torque wrenches that do different ranges. Snap on makes a digital torque wrench that’ll do 15-300 ft-lbs but it costs around $1000... I’d recommend picking up a 1/2” drive torque wrench for the larger fasteners on the bike to start
@@Calvinm thanks mate.
Me: collecting confidence to change my oil and filter alone....
meanwhile....
ColinMC: ".. I'm going to take off this, than I'm gonna take off this and that. And about this one I dunno is it's gonna be needed but I'm taking it off!!!
Me: 😮
Haha, one piece at a time and one job at a time. You'll get there! Ride safe 👍
Don't you have to rivet the master link? I do not see how the final plate of the master link is held in place other than the force you pressed it on the silver coloured rods. There is nothing to stop them slide off after movement over time?
The EK chain does not require a riveting tool or a typical riveting process. You're right it does seem odd that nothing is on the outside of the chain that would secure the side plate but after reading many reviews both long term and short term I have faith in the system. Some people who use a the EK chain thread a nut on (with loctite) that matches the remaining two threads on the chain so that there is something mechanically binding the outer link. This extra nut isn't outlined in EK's instruction though.
@@Calvinm sounds legit, thanks!
@@Calvinm what type of stand are you using?
Like the master link. New to me.
Ya it does the job!
👍🏾Great video,thanks
You’re welcome! 👍
Good job
спасибо брат
Hazar!
100nm on the rear sprocket must be tottaly wrong in the manual! People have draw of the bult on rear sprocket hub 🤦♂️
The amount of grease You use on that chain is enought to lubricate 10 chains, all of this will fell of after You reach 120km/h because off g-force :P But overall good content and video.