Fantastic job - i am just doing my series 3. Mechanics nowadays just unbolt it and put a new one on. Not the case here though, everything is meticulously done.
Looking really good. :) I would have used a thin smear of copper grease on all the bolts exposed to the elements. That makes it so much easier to remove them after some years. Also i wouldn't use the one shot grease in the hubs. Both the railco bearing and the universal joints get too little lubrication. Oil is a lot thinner and gets all around. :)
This is absolutely brilliant work. Building from basics. Just a quick question, when re-building the entire chassis, like this, wouldn't be any alignment issues?
It was checked frequently with laser level so it wouldn't deformed during welding and also welds were not long, a few cm of welding and switch to completely opposite side of chassis so that one part will not get extremely hot... The chassis "bent" like a banana, middle section stayed down, front and back went up (after cutting it off from flat template) about 2mm on opposite sides of chassis but that just more than acceptable on 4,2 meter long chassis, so deformation makes front and back perfectly aligned just belly is down. And only few mm are dead flat considering almost 15kg of welding wire spent on chassis.
I'm playing catch up on your videos and really enjoying them, although it makes my work on mine look very amateur. Where did you get those rear axel straps?
Thank you again! 😊 The straps are from hardware store and they were under car/truck pulling and strapping down stuff on trailers. 1 meter length were perfect for rear axle without any modifications on edge loops
The black stuff at 2:50 is the same as at 10:10, it's neutral silicone. I'm using it on all paper sealing and pretty much all metal to metal contacts as well as on all exposed nuts. It's preventing rust and unwanted bonding due to the rust, it's easily removed afterwards if needed and it doesn't cause any type of corrosion because it's neutral unlike the acetate ones that smell. The black stuff at 15:10 on rims as well as the grey stuff at 18:55 on bushings is polyurethane rubber glue/sealant when hardened it's similar like rubber, sticks to bare metal perfectly and it was used on rims to smooth out the dents caused by rust.
@@slightlytuned I have a Series 3 and late 2A. The 3 is my daily driver but now needs a gearbox overhaul which I'm doing. Great to see people still using these iconic vehicles. I have no need for the modern types. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the restoration. Excellent work 🙂
@@JimJamJammer thank you! Yes, also in the same process, complete gearbox assembly, every last bolt was off and it's getting in one piece now, that will be the next LR video. Yes, agreed old cars are the best 🙂
Do you think it's wise using one shot grease. This was really for later land rovers with cv joints, older landies have u/js and won't get lubricated also the railco pin won't get any lubrication. Not trying to pick holes in your excellent rebuild, just a thought.
Honestly I don't know, I tried to find out as much as possible about it before the build and I got the impression that one shot is enough....but also we did put a lot of red renolit grease inside during the build, guess it can't hurt. What would be the original way? Oil inside? Is that oil separate from the oil inside the diff housing? Or the seal ring is missing in original design and one oil is for all? We don't have any experience with it, just the drawings and manuals also googling....Let me know any thoughts, ideas.... thanks! 🙂 I guess I can add oil inside through the plug hole if needed.....
@@slightlytuned The original would have used gear oil which kept separate from the diff oil by the oil seal in the axle tubing. I once used the one shot on mine due to a bad seal that dumped the oil on the rear of the tyre, not having the time to fix it i just put one shot in. When I did fix the leak the grease had been thrown up and had stuck against the housing, UJs were dry and so was the railco pin. So I cleaned out the grease and filled it with 90EP GL4 gear oil again. Be even worse i guess if your using freewheeling hubs, which i took off mine as soon as I got it. Just put the oil in through the hole until oil runs out, takes about 1.5 liters
I've checked.... it's the same as on photo here www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/BrakeShoe2.jpg Two springs mounted to same holes as on photo.... hope that's correct
@@slightlytuned I see yes, the 109 has a different set up on the rear to the 88. I was completely wrong, sorry about that. So the 109 has two adjustable shoes on the rear? That will be good to know when I get around to the 109.
@@m111kca4 you got me scared for a bit, I've dived hard into the drawings to find the mistake 😅... we've done everything by the drawings so hopefully no mistakes will happen.... But thanks for a potential warning, if something is wrong better to check and repair that sooner than later 🙂
Hello what a lovley black and white cat
Well done guys. Some really useful tips and tricks. Love the angle iron scissors to put the brake pads on. Those are stubborn things!
Thank you! We don't have all the tools but we can improvise 😊
That's what I came to the comments to say too. Nice work.
Absolutely love the attention to detail . The apprentice cat adorable too . Reminds me of hours spent with my Dad in his workshop ❤
Thank you! 😀
Escellent attention to detail - I applaud your work
هذا الرجل من كبار الفنانين
A true master. Well done keep up the excellent work
Very nice. Happy for you. Cheers.
Fantastic job - i am just doing my series 3. Mechanics nowadays just unbolt it and put a new one on. Not the case here though, everything is meticulously done.
Thank you! 😊
Very interesting to see how you do everything. You make it look so easy
Thank you! It looks quick on the video but it was quite time consuming 😅
@@slightlytuned I know it’s a painful process at times. Great job on documenting everything
@@actionbundi9 thank you! 🙂
Un trabajo impecable, enhorabuena!
This video gives asmr vibes and I love it
Great work! Love the cat! Some dialogue would have been nice too.
Thanks!
Mitiquísima esa lijadora hecha con motor de lavadora. Mi padre tiene uno exactamente igual.
Wonderful muster skills sir thanks
Subbed on the spot. Amazing work!
Thank you!!!! 😊
Nice job mate.
Un muy buen profecional por esto los reparariones de Land Rover bale dinero
Looking great, excellent work
Looking really good. :) I would have used a thin smear of copper grease on all the bolts exposed to the elements. That makes it so much easier to remove them after some years. Also i wouldn't use the one shot grease in the hubs. Both the railco bearing and the universal joints get too little lubrication. Oil is a lot thinner and gets all around. :)
Yes....I got one shot grease to oil tip enough times definitely to not ignore..... will sort that during the build. Oil it is! Thanks 🙂
Spell binding works
😍
This is absolutely brilliant work. Building from basics. Just a quick question, when re-building the entire chassis, like this, wouldn't be any alignment issues?
It was checked frequently with laser level so it wouldn't deformed during welding and also welds were not long, a few cm of welding and switch to completely opposite side of chassis so that one part will not get extremely hot...
The chassis "bent" like a banana, middle section stayed down, front and back went up (after cutting it off from flat template) about 2mm on opposite sides of chassis but that just more than acceptable on 4,2 meter long chassis, so deformation makes front and back perfectly aligned just belly is down. And only few mm are dead flat considering almost 15kg of welding wire spent on chassis.
Piękna praca
Thanks ☺️
I'm playing catch up on your videos and really enjoying them, although it makes my work on mine look very amateur. Where did you get those rear axel straps?
Thank you again! 😊 The straps are from hardware store and they were under car/truck pulling and strapping down stuff on trailers. 1 meter length were perfect for rear axle without any modifications on edge loops
Do you have to rebuild the bulkhead from scratch? I would love to see how its done.
Yes, it will be also completely rebuild. Next video is engine and transmission and after that the upper part 🙂
Excellent 👏👏 what tipo of paint do you use? Thanks
Thank you! As a primer I use Mirodur Epomir, it's 2k epoxy primer I'm very satisfied and using it for a long time, from fences to cars....
@@slightlytuned thanks for the Info 🙏
What was the black stuff you were putting on the calipers at 2:50?
The black stuff at 2:50 is the same as at 10:10, it's neutral silicone. I'm using it on all paper sealing and pretty much all metal to metal contacts as well as on all exposed nuts. It's preventing rust and unwanted bonding due to the rust, it's easily removed afterwards if needed and it doesn't cause any type of corrosion because it's neutral unlike the acetate ones that smell. The black stuff at 15:10 on rims as well as the grey stuff at 18:55 on bushings is polyurethane rubber glue/sealant when hardened it's similar like rubber, sticks to bare metal perfectly and it was used on rims to smooth out the dents caused by rust.
Excellent work. Are you keeping it?
Thank you! Yes it will be a daily driver just like the Mini 🙂
@@slightlytuned I have a Series 3 and late 2A. The 3 is my daily driver but now needs a gearbox overhaul which I'm doing. Great to see people still using these iconic vehicles. I have no need for the modern types. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the restoration. Excellent work 🙂
@@JimJamJammer thank you! Yes, also in the same process, complete gearbox assembly, every last bolt was off and it's getting in one piece now, that will be the next LR video. Yes, agreed old cars are the best 🙂
Do you think it's wise using one shot grease. This was really for later land rovers with cv joints, older landies have u/js and won't get lubricated also the railco pin won't get any lubrication.
Not trying to pick holes in your excellent rebuild, just a thought.
Honestly I don't know, I tried to find out as much as possible about it before the build and I got the impression that one shot is enough....but also we did put a lot of red renolit grease inside during the build, guess it can't hurt. What would be the original way? Oil inside? Is that oil separate from the oil inside the diff housing? Or the seal ring is missing in original design and one oil is for all?
We don't have any experience with it, just the drawings and manuals also googling....Let me know any thoughts, ideas.... thanks! 🙂
I guess I can add oil inside through the plug hole if needed.....
@@slightlytuned
The original would have used gear oil which kept separate from the diff oil by the oil seal in the axle tubing.
I once used the one shot on mine due to a bad seal that dumped the oil on the rear of the tyre, not having the time to fix it i just put one shot in.
When I did fix the leak the grease had been thrown up and had stuck against the housing, UJs were dry and so was the railco pin. So I cleaned out the grease and filled it with 90EP GL4 gear oil again.
Be even worse i guess if your using freewheeling hubs, which i took off mine as soon as I got it.
Just put the oil in through the hole until oil runs out, takes about 1.5 liters
Hi. Can you provide a torque spec for everything you did please ??? Thank you in advance
I can make a list, just need to watch the video and write it down... I'll do that but will need a bit time 🙂
The springs on the shoes are on incorrect ( NO he’s not wrong I am haha) , the top springs only goes on one brake shoe. Rear axle
I've checked.... it's the same as on photo here www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/BrakeShoe2.jpg
Two springs mounted to same holes as on photo.... hope that's correct
@@slightlytuned I see yes, the 109 has a different set up on the rear to the 88. I was completely wrong, sorry about that. So the 109 has two adjustable shoes on the rear? That will be good to know when I get around to the 109.
@@m111kca4 you got me scared for a bit, I've dived hard into the drawings to find the mistake 😅... we've done everything by the drawings so hopefully no mistakes will happen....
But thanks for a potential warning, if something is wrong better to check and repair that sooner than later 🙂
@@slightlytuned haha I scared you for nothing, your work is perfect. Just seen the video of the chassis, was the best video I've seen for a while.
@@m111kca4 thank you so much! 🙂