Awesome! Let me know if you run into any hiccups along the way. Maybe it's just me, but I feel a bit more secure with a carb feeding the beast, rather than the MM.
@@busabobsgarage9876 Man Thanks for such a well done video.I'm starting my conversion on a 98 road king, I hope this goes smoothly because I have drilled the tank, not looking back now. I don't want to be 3 or 4 hundred miles from home and at the mercy of whomever that is younger than my scooter and probably won't have a clue to deal with a mag-mo. I may have to change my Handel to nomomagmo. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again
i did a swap a year ago i used 2000 i goes in the nose cone no other boxes toke all M&M wireing out used a cv carb runs great all gauges work just like before HAPPY TRAILS
Thanks! In a way I wish I would have made my own harness because the Deutch connectors are really nice to work with. I'm curious to know what folks are doing for thier wiring.
I have just discovered your channel, I am really interested in this series on your 97 Roadking. I have a 98 Roadking Classic, same colour, same size Ape Hangers, and the same dreaded Magneti Marali EFI with similar performance issues. It has a tuner of some sort fitted like yours, but the previous owner sealed it up pretty well inside a waterproof plastic sleeve. I am very keen to convert it to Carb as you have done, and this is a great video on what, and how to remove the EFI components. I am in Australia so although we have plenty of Harley Davidsons over here, the dealer and aftermarket support is only a fraction of what you have available in the USA. It can be particularly difficult to source parts for older bikes, and even harder to find someone who knows how to do conversions like this. Most of the dealers in my area dont have mechanics who know how to work on older Twin Cams, let alone Evo’s!
Thanks for your comments! Everything needed for this swap should be available on eBay or Amazon. It's probably going to cost you a bit more to get the stuff to Oz unless you can source locally. I suspect that your biggest sourcing challenge will be the carbureted wire harness, unless you get the Deutsch connectors and modify your existing loom. You will also have to consider which ignition module you want to run and the mods needed on the tank. Finally, you also have some carb and intake choices to make. Good luck on the project!
The hardest thing to find is the ignition harness. They are almost non-existent because everybody else had the same idea years ago. It's part number 32435-97 . 1997 and 98 are the only years that used it. Any other year is different. You can make it if you have the service, electrical and parts manuals. The parts diagrams and manuals are available online in pdf if you look hard enough but I found it easier to have the actual manuals in front of me when figuring things out. Some people also modify their existing cable but I just replicated what came on the carb model. Be careful about trusting some of what you read online because most of the parts lists that people post to do the conversion are actually for the Twin Cams and can cause you to waste a lot of money when gathering parts. My bike had very low mileage when I bought it but I planned ahead so I have pretty much everything now if I need to do it.
Thanks for the video! I have a 97 road king same paint! I’ve owned it for 9 years the last 3 have been hell with the magnetti marelli! I just bought a Harley cv carb & intake, ultima single fire electric ignition, pingle tank kit! I’m ready to convert it over!!! Have you been satisfied with the swap! It sounds great
Hi Bob,having issues with my Magnetti Marelli on my 1998 Roadking also. What made you decide to go to carburetor, since you had just rebuilt the Magnetti Marelli system.
It's not a true closed loop system with an o2 sensor and anything on the MM is difficult to find anymore, and can potentially leave you stranded. A carb will be more reliable and perform nearly as well as the MM, maybe better.
16:46 hey bob great video …. Where did u find the wiring harness.. heard u say ebay .. but didn’t hear a name or site .. gonna do the swap and that harness will surely heip
Thanks for the feedback. I was lucky to find a good used harness on ebay for a carbureted bike. I think they are getting a bit scarce because there were only so many carbureted bikes built and that Harley part is now discontinued. I believe that some of the other folks are getting new harness from a company called Namz?
Thanks I will save all of that I've got everything I need except the Dyna 2000 and coil I know it has to be changed to single fire I looked them up they are so many different ones of them and different prices confuse which one to order that I need
I sure wish I had seen this video before stressing so long to tackle this job on 98 Ultra. I'm in the middle of this now. I work slow. The fuel tank mods are the most stressful, not f'n ;up the paint while you do what needs to be done. I'm leaving the fi harness rolled back and tucked under the left cover where i removed the cruise control box. Leaving the ecm alone. Ultima ignition and Mikuni 42.
The carbureted harness for the Road King made the wiring super easy. I pulled that entire ECM mess out of there. I'm not sure what the wiring looks like for the Ultra, but if you can pull any of the old stuff out, I would. You are right, the tank is probably the biggest challenge. Definitely have to get that one right the first time. Good luck on the project 👍
@@busabobsgarage9876 I'm leaving the ecm because I don't know what other functions, speedo, odometer and ?. I know i don't need it to make the bike run.
@@baristasmaestro2240 It started after winter. Mechanically everything is fine, compression and oil pressure are normal. Spark plug wire coil new. All that remains is to change the c/shaft sensor and fuel pump filter! And eventually throw it away MM😀
@@evgeniymatveev7367 i had once strange experience with Electra. Everytime taking out of the garage my bike after a week when start it the bike working poor and thinking that one piston is out of working. I change spark plugs and everything ok. Next week the same thing, W. T. F., was thinking about magneti marelli but i done something else, i use extra ground wire from battery negative to the frame and problem stop. Also the oil hoses which is inside the airfilter box was linking oil going inside in the manifold, i took out these hoses using small canister. Try to check all these and you will see.Now my bike is ok. Also, watch the video youtube showing how to adjust the TPS with multimeter, i didnt done this but i will do next weeks.
@@baristasmaestro2240 I will try! I agree, installing a carburetor is the last thing I will do! Thank you! P.S. I really like the way the S&S carburetor works on my Big Dog K9.
I have the same bike, same color and year! Have been sourcing parts to do this. Thanks so much for your video! I hope it cures my issues with cold starting, idle fluctuations, throttle response, and losing that signature Harley idle. Did yours improve in all of those areas?
Carburetors have their own set of nuances, but yes, for the most part, the carb swap took care of those issues. I'm still running a little rich, so I'll be doing some more tuning this winter.
It's hard to say...it could last the lifetime of the bike. If it's running good, I wouldn't mess with it. If you are having problems or looking to upgrade, then I would ditch it for a carb. However, the carb swap is neither easy or cheap.
First, you have to make sure that the ignition that you select can be set up and wired for single fire if that is the type of coil that you plan to run. I'm sure there is a way to wire and connect it without the harness, but you may have to splice in your VOES and any other required connections. There are probably a few different ways to "skin the cat". The best advice that I can give you is to download the wiring diagram for the carbureted version of your bike and the wiring diagram for the ignition module that you plan to use and go from there. You literally have to connect the dots and figure out what you are going to use to make the connections. If you are not comfortable with wiring, then the pre-made harness is the way to go.
I don't think that is possible. What part of the swap do you think is going to be the biggest challenge for you? My guess would be wiring or mods to the tank.
OK, on the 97 FLHR/I wiring diagram, it shows the efi and carbureted versions of the ignition harness. The PN for the carbureted ignition harness is 32435-97. I believe that this harness is discounted by HD, but there is an outfit called Namz, that might make a plug and play harness. You may also get lucky and find on on ebay like I did. You want to make sure it is for the non-efi or carbureted bike. I was originally going to take my original efi harness and strip out all the unneeded wires and splice in the two Deutsch connectors. There is an 8-pin that would go to the oem ignition module and a 2-pin that goes to the VOES. Both of these connectors can be found as pre-wired pigtails on amazon or ebay and could be spliced onto your existing harness. You will also have to decide which ignition module you will go with, you need a voes, ignition coil and the cup that I call out at the end of my vid. That would complete the ignition circuit (maybe a set of spark plug wires). If you are not comfortable splicing and making a harness, the Namz or ebay options will be your best bet.
I ve been looking into doing this for quite sometime and have got a lot of misinformation. This is the first time to see it done on the EVO. Can you tell me more about getting the proper harness and is there a certain item name or part number for it?
On the 97 FLHR wiring diagram, it calls for HD P/N 32435-97. You should verify this for the year and model of your bike. My understanding is that this harness is discontinued, so you can go about it in a few ways...1) find one on ebay or a Harley salvage, 2) butcher your existing harness and splice in the needed connectors, 3) make a harness. For option 2 and 3, Amazon sells pre-wired Deutch pigtails that could be spliced in. They also sell all the individual Deutch pieces, if you want to build from scratch. Best way is option 1 if you are lucky to find a good used harnes.
Hey bob quick question after you drilled the tank out does the 1” or so tall nipple stay in the tank and if so does it affect the reserve on the petcocck? Im in the process of converting mine as we speak….
@@busabobsgarage9876 ok. thank you for the reply. im having a difficult time finding videos with the wiring for the stand alone ignitions. IE what is needed and what can be deleted.
@joe-iz9zr If you have the ignition that goes inside the cam nose cone, then you put that in place of your cam position sensor, but you will have to find some wiring instructions. Even if it's a cheap eBay ignition, there has to be a wiring diagram.
the pingel adaper kit M/M to carb cv carb 45 poilt 180/190 main 2000i ing. get rid of all old M/M wiring & comp. i had a mike crate of wireing when done that 2000i is a stand alone ing.
You will have to do some drilling to get through the fittings going into the tank bt the efi lines. Don't screw up the threads because you need the for the Pingel 62052 adapter.
Thank you for responding. What year and bike did you get the wiring harness off of. Thanks again. Great video that a lot of us marelli people need to see.
@ARGOSCUSTOMS Regarding the harness, I believe the one that I got from ebay was from a carbureted 97 FLHR. The wiring diagram should call out the HD part number for the harness. If you can't find an original harness, you could go two ways in my opinion: 1) Use the original FI harness and buy the mating Deutsch connectors and pins...in other words, make one out of your existing harness, or 2) I believe that there is a company called Namz that makes a replacement harness for the carbureted bikes. You may be lucky enough to find an OEM harness from a HD boneyard somewhere, but they may want to sell you the entire harness and not just the section for the ignition.
Hey I got a 96 electraglide. I just picked it up I wanna take out the trash fuel inj and do this swap. I am not a mechanic but I can figure things out but with that said it's my first time tinkering with a harley and the evo motor!! Can u tell me what parts I need to do this and part numbers if u got them please 🙏
This is one of my more popular vids, so I will provide a little more info here. I can't supply all of the part numbers, but this is generally what you will need...DISCLAIMER: IT IS UP TO YOU TO MAKE SURE THESE THINGS WILL WORK WITH YOUR MODEL, YEAR, APPLICATION. You will need some basic tools and skills to perform this swap and to get your bike back up and running. Use caution when drilling out your tank fittings, so you don't damage the threads for the fittings. Parts Needed: - Ignition: I bought the dynatek Dyna 2000. Make sure you research this and get the one for your application, there are also other ignition setups that will work, including the stock carbureted ignition module. - Ignition coil: You have to decide if you will go with a single fire or dual fire ignition. That will determine which coil to buy. The stock carbureted setup is "dual fire", meaning that both plugs fire at at the same time. I believe that you need the coil mounting plate as well. - Plug wires: I can't remember if you can use the same plug wires, but I got a fresh set. - Ignition timing cup: HD P/N 32402-83...this goes inside the ignition pickup nosecone and bolts to the end of your cam. - VOES: vacuum operated electrical switch. You can pick these up used on eBay and it is best to get one that has the plug that will connect to your harness, as well as the mounting bracket, which is also the bracket for your horn and choke cable. Wiring harness: The HD P/N for the carbureted sub harness is 32435-97 (for my 97 Road King). You will need to find the wiring diagram for your bike and it should show the carbureted and injected wiring, along with the associated P/N's. The carbureted harness is probably not available from Harley, but if you are lucky, you can find a used one on eBay, otherwise you will have to find the correct Deutch connectors and/or pigtails and splice them into your harness or make a harness. - Pingel tank fitting: P/N 62052 - Pingel fuel valve: 1311-CH - Fuel line - Intake manifold and gaskets: P/N or type will depend on the carburetor that you use. - Carburetor: You could go with a stock CV carb, Mikuni HSR 42, S&S or others. I went with a Mikuni HSR 42 style carb - Air filter and breathers: Again, this is going to depend on which carb you select, but I went with the Mikuni HS42/012 K&N and KHS-020 breather. - Other: There may be a few more odds and ends, but this should be the majority. PLEASE LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE TO MY CHANNEL
I have a 2000 that i put a carb on but I'm having issues with the throttle cables rubbing holes in the bottom of the gas tank. Is there a different bracket i can use to route the cables closer to the backbone or something?
I would have to see where it is rubbing. You could try to zip tie them away from the tank, or maybe take a section of hose or fuel line and cut it down the side and run the cables through the hose and have that protect the tank.
@busabobsgarage9876 I had them zip tied to the backbone and also protected by 1/4 inch fuel line. I said fk it today and I cut the tank and welded a tunnel in where the lines kept rubbing. The paint is drying as we speak.
@busabobsgarage9876 took a couple of hours to do and I was back on the road. Northwest Illinois weather didn't keep the motorcycle off the roads too long this winter so I'm back in the saddle again
You got way more luckier than you think on that wire harness for 30.00 . I only wish you would have shown what it looks like , that is very important to people trying to do this type of job. You made this job look very easy but inside my head I don't see it that way , ha ha . Bike sounds great .
You are correct...if you can't source the wire harness, you will have to modify your existing harness, make a harness or have someone do it for you. Looking back at the wiring diagram, you essentially need 7 wires between the main harness plug and the plug that goes into the carbureted ignition module. You also need a plug for the VOES and a couple ring terminals for the ignition coil. The pre wired Deutsch pigtails are available on Amazon and eBay. This is definitely not the easy route, but it should be possible to modify your existing harness.
Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch..VOES: When vacuum is detected at the intake (or not) it will advance or retard the ignition timing. The voes is used on stock harley carbureted applications.
Thanks for the video, but you should actually show at least a little bit of the work. I don't know if it's your audio or mine "probably mine" but I couldn't make out what you were saying
I'm not sure if that answers the question, but the wire terminations can be removed from the 3-pin Deutsch connector. I believe that I removed the old wire shield and used new shrink tube, then reinstalled back in the connector and routed along the bottom frame tube.
Hey David...I did not look at the Namz harness, but that may be a good tip for some folks here who are planning this swap. I was lucky to get an OEM harness on ebay from a non-EFI, but they seem a bit scarce. If Namz makes them, that is great. I went with the Mikuni style setup because I have ran a couple real deal flat slides in the past and I like how they run, throttle response, etc.
Sorry, I don't know what sort of tank setup the 2000 twin cam has. I would assume that it is a similar setup, but make sure you research for that year, so you get the correct Pingel valve and fittings.
I’ve seen a few wiring harnesses. Is it the “Main harness” that I need ? Also, how do I know which censor I use (cam or crank), or both ? Schematic shows a wire for both.
It is not the main harness, it is a sub harness. You will be using the cam position sensor. The crank position sensor is not used on the carbureted setup, just leave it disconnected.
Mate many thanks for this instruction video, I did the same on 97 FLH and this vid helped me heaps. I owe you a beer.
Thanks, it's this kind of feedback that makes it all worth it for me! What type of ignition did you use and where did you find your wiring harness?
Thank you for this video. Most conversions videos are Twin Cam. I’m about to do this on my EVO Road Glide
Awesome! Let me know if you run into any hiccups along the way. Maybe it's just me, but I feel a bit more secure with a carb feeding the beast, rather than the MM.
@@busabobsgarage9876 Man
Thanks for such a well done video.I'm starting my conversion on a 98 road king, I hope this goes smoothly because I have drilled the tank, not looking back now. I don't want to be 3 or 4 hundred miles from home and at the mercy of whomever that is younger than my scooter and probably won't have a clue to deal with a mag-mo. I may have to change my Handel to nomomagmo. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again
Nomo cooties, nomomagmo, that is awesome. Good luck on your conversion, don't look back!
i did a swap a year ago i used 2000 i goes in the nose cone no other boxes toke all M&M wireing out used a cv carb runs great all gauges work just like before HAPPY TRAILS
I bought a spare nose cone ignition just in case. So far everything is pretty good with the swap, except my carb needs s little work on the jetting.
What did you use for an adapter for the petcock?
i used a pingel they sell adapter kit for the M/M to carb peacock@@williamyoung3340
That is the route I’m going as we speak
Where did you get your conversion kit
The video was excellent
The wiring part is worth watching thanks
Thanks! In a way I wish I would have made my own harness because the Deutch connectors are really nice to work with. I'm curious to know what folks are doing for thier wiring.
I have just discovered your channel, I am really interested in this series on your 97 Roadking. I have a 98 Roadking Classic, same colour, same size Ape Hangers, and the same dreaded Magneti Marali EFI with similar performance issues. It has a tuner of some sort fitted like yours, but the previous owner sealed it up pretty well inside a waterproof plastic sleeve. I am very keen to convert it to Carb as you have done, and this is a great video on what, and how to remove the EFI components. I am in Australia so although we have plenty of Harley Davidsons over here, the dealer and aftermarket support is only a fraction of what you have available in the USA. It can be particularly difficult to source parts for older bikes, and even harder to find someone who knows how to do conversions like this. Most of the dealers in my area dont have mechanics who know how to work on older Twin Cams, let alone Evo’s!
Thanks for your comments! Everything needed for this swap should be available on eBay or Amazon. It's probably going to cost you a bit more to get the stuff to Oz unless you can source locally. I suspect that your biggest sourcing challenge will be the carbureted wire harness, unless you get the Deutsch connectors and modify your existing loom. You will also have to consider which ignition module you want to run and the mods needed on the tank. Finally, you also have some carb and intake choices to make. Good luck on the project!
The hardest thing to find is the ignition harness. They are almost non-existent because everybody else had the same idea years ago. It's part number 32435-97 . 1997 and 98 are the only years that used it. Any other year is different. You can make it if you have the service, electrical and parts manuals. The parts diagrams and manuals are available online in pdf if you look hard enough but I found it easier to have the actual manuals in front of me when figuring things out. Some people also modify their existing cable but I just replicated what came on the carb model. Be careful about trusting some of what you read online because most of the parts lists that people post to do the conversion are actually for the Twin Cams and can cause you to waste a lot of money when gathering parts. My bike had very low mileage when I bought it but I planned ahead so I have pretty much everything now if I need to do it.
Thanks for the video! I have a 97 road king same paint! I’ve owned it for 9 years the last 3 have been hell with the magnetti marelli! I just bought a Harley cv carb & intake, ultima single fire electric ignition, pingle tank kit! I’m ready to convert it over!!! Have you been satisfied with the swap! It sounds great
You will be super happy with the swap. I have ran CV and Mikunu on evo's and they both do the job very well. Good luck on the swap.
Thank you for the video! Not many videos out there about the swap.
You're welcome!
Fantastic work!!!
Excellent Video
Thank you very much!
Hi Bob,having issues with my Magnetti Marelli on my 1998 Roadking also. What made you decide to go to carburetor, since you had just rebuilt the Magnetti Marelli system.
It's not a true closed loop system with an o2 sensor and anything on the MM is difficult to find anymore, and can potentially leave you stranded. A carb will be more reliable and perform nearly as well as the MM, maybe better.
16:46 hey bob great video …. Where did u find the wiring harness.. heard u say ebay .. but didn’t hear a name or site .. gonna do the swap and that harness will surely heip
Thanks for the feedback. I was lucky to find a good used harness on ebay for a carbureted bike. I think they are getting a bit scarce because there were only so many carbureted bikes built and that Harley part is now discontinued. I believe that some of the other folks are getting new harness from a company called Namz?
Every helpful content, Thank you I'm going to change mind over
Save all of your parts. You can probably sell the ECM and throttle body on eBay.
Thanks I will save all of that I've got everything I need except the Dyna 2000 and coil I know it has to be changed to single fire I looked them up they are so many different ones of them and different prices confuse which one to order that I need
This is the single fire coil that I got
www.ebay.com/itm/352418827919?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LNDbQt6LQ4q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Ht0O6kbuTbK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I sure wish I had seen this video before stressing so long to tackle this job on 98 Ultra. I'm in the middle of this now. I work slow. The fuel tank mods are the most stressful, not f'n ;up the paint while you do what needs to be done. I'm leaving the fi harness rolled back and tucked under the left cover where i removed the cruise control box. Leaving the ecm alone. Ultima ignition and Mikuni 42.
The carbureted harness for the Road King made the wiring super easy. I pulled that entire ECM mess out of there. I'm not sure what the wiring looks like for the Ultra, but if you can pull any of the old stuff out, I would. You are right, the tank is probably the biggest challenge. Definitely have to get that one right the first time. Good luck on the project 👍
@@busabobsgarage9876 I'm leaving the ecm because I don't know what other functions, speedo, odometer and ?. I know i don't need it to make the bike run.
Hey Tom, I guess it doesn't hurt to leave it there, other than added clutter. What year is your Ultra?
@@busabobsgarage9876what’s the key words to locating the harness. I’ve looked on EBay and I’m not sure. Also, does NAMz sell it new
I ve done 50000miles with magnetti marelli and no problems at all.
2001 year Electra EFI MM 24000 km and now engine works how piece of crap! Some times check lights up but no fault code! I'm thinking Carb Swap...
@@evgeniymatveev7367 i think your problem is something else and to swap to carb its not the solution.
@@baristasmaestro2240 It started after winter. Mechanically everything is fine, compression and oil pressure are normal. Spark plug wire coil new. All that remains is to change the c/shaft sensor and fuel pump filter! And eventually throw it away MM😀
@@evgeniymatveev7367 i had once strange experience with Electra. Everytime taking out of the garage my bike after a week when start it the bike working poor and thinking that one piston is out of working. I change spark plugs and everything ok. Next week the same thing, W. T. F., was thinking about magneti marelli but i done something else, i use extra ground wire from battery negative to the frame and problem stop. Also the oil hoses which is inside the airfilter box was linking oil going inside in the manifold, i took out these hoses using small canister. Try to check all these and you will see.Now my bike is ok. Also, watch the video youtube showing how to adjust the TPS with multimeter, i didnt done this but i will do next weeks.
@@baristasmaestro2240 I will try! I agree, installing a carburetor is the last thing I will do! Thank you!
P.S. I really like the way the S&S carburetor works on my Big Dog K9.
Thank you for this series!
Glad that it can help some fellow riders!
I have the same bike, same color and year! Have been sourcing parts to do this. Thanks so much for your video! I hope it cures my issues with cold starting, idle fluctuations, throttle response, and losing that signature Harley idle. Did yours improve in all of those areas?
Carburetors have their own set of nuances, but yes, for the most part, the carb swap took care of those issues. I'm still running a little rich, so I'll be doing some more tuning this winter.
Where is the barometric sensor located on the fuel injected system?
I believe that it was located under the right side cover near the ECU.
I have a Police 2000 HD Road King , 35,000 miles, how long will I get out that MAG MARELLI EFI ?
It's hard to say...it could last the lifetime of the bike. If it's running good, I wouldn't mess with it. If you are having problems or looking to upgrade, then I would ditch it for a carb. However, the carb swap is neither easy or cheap.
hey Bob, was your non start issue in fact the rotor cup?
It sure was, she fired right up after replacing the rotor cup and static timing.
If I use a single fire coil and an after market ingnition like the dynatech do I need the wiring harness.
When I say aftermarket ignition I mean the one that goes in the cam cover
First, you have to make sure that the ignition that you select can be set up and wired for single fire if that is the type of coil that you plan to run. I'm sure there is a way to wire and connect it without the harness, but you may have to splice in your VOES and any other required connections. There are probably a few different ways to "skin the cat". The best advice that I can give you is to download the wiring diagram for the carbureted version of your bike and the wiring diagram for the ignition module that you plan to use and go from there. You literally have to connect the dots and figure out what you are going to use to make the connections. If you are not comfortable with wiring, then the pre-made harness is the way to go.
I believe that there are some other guys who have done this and have spliced into the existing FI harness. Search for Magneti Marelli conversion.
I’m getting ready to do the same thing to a ‘97 Electra-Glide. Can I get the parts of the video you edited out?
I don't think that is possible. What part of the swap do you think is going to be the biggest challenge for you? My guess would be wiring or mods to the tank.
It’s the wiring. Will I be able to reuse and rewire the stock harness, or am I stuck?
OK, on the 97 FLHR/I wiring diagram, it shows the efi and carbureted versions of the ignition harness. The PN for the carbureted ignition harness is 32435-97. I believe that this harness is discounted by HD, but there is an outfit called Namz, that might make a plug and play harness. You may also get lucky and find on on ebay like I did. You want to make sure it is for the non-efi or carbureted bike. I was originally going to take my original efi harness and strip out all the unneeded wires and splice in the two Deutsch connectors. There is an 8-pin that would go to the oem ignition module and a 2-pin that goes to the VOES. Both of these connectors can be found as pre-wired pigtails on amazon or ebay and could be spliced onto your existing harness. You will also have to decide which ignition module you will go with, you need a voes, ignition coil and the cup that I call out at the end of my vid. That would complete the ignition circuit (maybe a set of spark plug wires). If you are not comfortable splicing and making a harness, the Namz or ebay options will be your best bet.
I ve been looking into doing this for quite sometime and have got a lot of misinformation. This is the first time to see it done on the EVO. Can you tell me more
about getting the proper harness and is there a certain item name or part number for it?
On the 97 FLHR wiring diagram, it calls for HD P/N 32435-97. You should verify this for the year and model of your bike. My understanding is that this harness is discontinued, so you can go about it in a few ways...1) find one on ebay or a Harley salvage, 2) butcher your existing harness and splice in the needed connectors, 3) make a harness. For option 2 and 3, Amazon sells pre-wired Deutch pigtails that could be spliced in. They also sell all the individual Deutch pieces, if you want to build from scratch. Best way is option 1 if you are lucky to find a good used harnes.
Hey bob quick question after you drilled the tank out does the 1” or so tall nipple stay in the tank and if so does it affect the reserve on the petcocck? Im in the process of converting mine as we speak….
I cut and removed as much of the innards as I could. That will absolutely affect the reserve, etc. Remove as much as you can.
Die grinder?
Yes, I believe that is what I used.
Correction. The crank position sensor ?
You don't need the crank position sensor for the carb conversion.
@@busabobsgarage9876 ok. thank you for the reply. im having a difficult time finding videos with the wiring for the stand alone ignitions. IE what is needed and what can be deleted.
@joe-iz9zr If you have the ignition that goes inside the cam nose cone, then you put that in place of your cam position sensor, but you will have to find some wiring instructions. Even if it's a cheap eBay ignition, there has to be a wiring diagram.
My biggest concern is how to get a petcock to work in the efi tank. Got any tips to share?
the pingel adaper kit M/M to carb cv carb 45 poilt 180/190 main 2000i ing. get rid of all old M/M wiring & comp. i had a mike crate of wireing when done that 2000i is a stand alone ing.
You will have to do some drilling to get through the fittings going into the tank bt the efi lines. Don't screw up the threads because you need the for the Pingel 62052 adapter.
What coil did you use?
I went with a single fire Ultima coil that I found on ebay.
Thank you for responding. What year and bike did you get the wiring harness off of. Thanks again. Great video that a lot of us marelli people need to see.
@ARGOSCUSTOMS Regarding the harness, I believe the one that I got from ebay was from a carbureted 97 FLHR. The wiring diagram should call out the HD part number for the harness. If you can't find an original harness, you could go two ways in my opinion: 1) Use the original FI harness and buy the mating Deutsch connectors and pins...in other words, make one out of your existing harness, or 2) I believe that there is a company called Namz that makes a replacement harness for the carbureted bikes. You may be lucky enough to find an OEM harness from a HD boneyard somewhere, but they may want to sell you the entire harness and not just the section for the ignition.
Hey I got a 96 electraglide. I just picked it up I wanna take out the trash fuel inj and do this swap. I am not a mechanic but I can figure things out but with that said it's my first time tinkering with a harley and the evo motor!! Can u tell me what parts I need to do this and part numbers if u got them please 🙏
This is one of my more popular vids, so I will provide a little more info here. I can't supply all of the part numbers, but this is generally what you will need...DISCLAIMER: IT IS UP TO YOU TO MAKE SURE THESE THINGS WILL WORK WITH YOUR MODEL, YEAR, APPLICATION. You will need some basic tools and skills to perform this swap and to get your bike back up and running. Use caution when drilling out your tank fittings, so you don't damage the threads for the fittings.
Parts Needed:
- Ignition: I bought the dynatek Dyna 2000. Make sure you research this and get the one for your application, there are also other ignition setups that will work, including the stock carbureted ignition module.
- Ignition coil: You have to decide if you will go with a single fire or dual fire ignition. That will determine which coil to buy. The stock carbureted setup is "dual fire", meaning that both plugs fire at at the same time. I believe that you need the coil mounting plate as well.
- Plug wires: I can't remember if you can use the same plug wires, but I got a fresh set.
- Ignition timing cup: HD P/N 32402-83...this goes inside the ignition pickup nosecone and bolts to the end of your cam.
- VOES: vacuum operated electrical switch. You can pick these up used on eBay and it is best to get one that has the plug that will connect to your harness, as well as the mounting bracket, which is also the bracket for your horn and choke cable.
Wiring harness: The HD P/N for the carbureted sub harness is 32435-97 (for my 97 Road King). You will need to find the wiring diagram for your bike and it should show the carbureted and injected wiring, along with the associated P/N's. The carbureted harness is probably not available from Harley, but if you are lucky, you can find a used one on eBay, otherwise you will have to find the correct Deutch connectors and/or pigtails and splice them into your harness or make a harness.
- Pingel tank fitting: P/N 62052
- Pingel fuel valve: 1311-CH
- Fuel line
- Intake manifold and gaskets: P/N or type will depend on the carburetor that you use.
- Carburetor: You could go with a stock CV carb, Mikuni HSR 42, S&S or others. I went with a Mikuni HSR 42 style carb
- Air filter and breathers: Again, this is going to depend on which carb you select, but I went with the Mikuni HS42/012 K&N and KHS-020 breather.
- Other: There may be a few more odds and ends, but this should be the majority.
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Cost?
I have a 2000 that i put a carb on but I'm having issues with the throttle cables rubbing holes in the bottom of the gas tank. Is there a different bracket i can use to route the cables closer to the backbone or something?
I would have to see where it is rubbing. You could try to zip tie them away from the tank, or maybe take a section of hose or fuel line and cut it down the side and run the cables through the hose and have that protect the tank.
@busabobsgarage9876 I had them zip tied to the backbone and also protected by 1/4 inch fuel line. I said fk it today and I cut the tank and welded a tunnel in where the lines kept rubbing. The paint is drying as we speak.
Wow man! That is an ambitious fix. I hope the result is positive. Thanks for sharing 👍
@busabobsgarage9876 took a couple of hours to do and I was back on the road. Northwest Illinois weather didn't keep the motorcycle off the roads too long this winter so I'm back in the saddle again
Sweet! Any particular challenges for you on the conversion?
You got way more luckier than you think on that wire harness for 30.00 . I only wish you would have shown what it looks like , that is very important to people trying to do this type of job.
You made this job look very easy but inside my head I don't see it that way , ha ha . Bike sounds great .
You are correct...if you can't source the wire harness, you will have to modify your existing harness, make a harness or have someone do it for you. Looking back at the wiring diagram, you essentially need 7 wires between the main harness plug and the plug that goes into the carbureted ignition module. You also need a plug for the VOES and a couple ring terminals for the ignition coil. The pre wired Deutsch pigtails are available on Amazon and eBay. This is definitely not the easy route, but it should be possible to modify your existing harness.
What is the part # for the carb harness?@@busabobsgarage9876
I’m about to do mine tired of my mm messing up
If you can find the carbureted wiring harness on ebay or elsewhere it will make your life easy. You will also likely want a VOES.
@@busabobsgarage9876 actually what is a voes?
Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch..VOES: When vacuum is detected at the intake (or not) it will advance or retard the ignition timing. The voes is used on stock harley carbureted applications.
@@busabobsgarage9876 thank u
Thanks for the video, but you should actually show at least a little bit of the work. I don't know if it's your audio or mine "probably mine" but I couldn't make out what you were saying
That is good feedback, thanks 😊
Wanna sell the power commander?
All that stuff sold on ebay as soon as I made the carb swap, thanks for asking though!
Don't do it. MM is a good system
Thanks! I appreciate your opinion
Is one of the two lines coming from the fuel tank a return line?
I suppose it is for the injection setup. You can put the fuel valve in either one, but the other has to be plugged.
What did you end up doing with the Cam position sensor wiring ?
I kept the cam position sensor, but didn't need the crank position sensor.
I'm not sure if that answers the question, but the wire terminations can be removed from the 3-pin Deutsch connector. I believe that I removed the old wire shield and used new shrink tube, then reinstalled back in the connector and routed along the bottom frame tube.
Why did u go with the Mikuni knock off vs CV ? Any issues with that ? Did you look at the Namz wiring harness ?
Also : do you know if a 2000 twin cam tank needs as much work ..drilling ?
Hey David...I did not look at the Namz harness, but that may be a good tip for some folks here who are planning this swap. I was lucky to get an OEM harness on ebay from a non-EFI, but they seem a bit scarce. If Namz makes them, that is great. I went with the Mikuni style setup because I have ran a couple real deal flat slides in the past and I like how they run, throttle response, etc.
Sorry, I don't know what sort of tank setup the 2000 twin cam has. I would assume that it is a similar setup, but make sure you research for that year, so you get the correct Pingel valve and fittings.
I’ve seen a few wiring harnesses. Is it the “Main harness” that I need ? Also, how do I know which censor I use (cam or crank), or both ? Schematic shows a wire for both.
It is not the main harness, it is a sub harness. You will be using the cam position sensor. The crank position sensor is not used on the carbureted setup, just leave it disconnected.