Thanks for this, mostly for showing the part numbers for the gaskets/O-ring kits you purchased! I was having a hard time locating those parts. I have a 2000 Ultra with a MM system. They can be a bear to dial in, but they work fine once you get them there. The biggest issue I have is finding parts for it. BTW, I ditched my PCIII and put in a ThunderMax, and I am super pleased with that decision. The PCIII is a piggy back system whereas the T-Max is a replacement ECM with a very nice auto tune system for the A/F mixture. The amount of money I've thrown down the drain on dyno time wouldn't have been necessary had I gone straight to the T-Max when I did my engine build. It does require that you put an O2 sensor in your header, but that's not a big deal. A BIG advantage of the T-Max is that, because it's a replacement ECM rather than a piggyback like the PCIII, you don't have to guess at ignition timing: What you set the T-Max to is what you get. What you set the PCIII to is some amount of advance/retard of the ignition curve that's baked into the factory ECM, and I've spent a ton of time trying to find the actual specs on the factory ECM curve, to no avail. The T-Max was without a doubt one of the best upgrades I've made. BTW: My build is a 100-inch S&S Sidewinder Big Bore Kit, gear drive S&S 570 Easy Start cams, and a ThunderHeader 2-1. I will say this, though, about ignition tuning with the T-Max (or any tuner for the era Harley EFI system): If you're going to do seat-of-the-pants road tuning of your timing, it's helpful to rig up a cheap digital tach and a cheap voltage gauge on your dash so that you can accurately identify the correct RPM & throttle position to adjust in the tuner. I'm in the process right now of assembling such a rig to in order to tune out some knock I've got under load.
I ended up ditching the MM and converted it to a Mikunu clone with a dynatek ignition set up for single fire. I think there are 4 timing curves. That T-Max sounds like a nice piece of kit. Did you have to go with bigger injectors?
@@busabobsgarage9876 I seriously considered switching to a carb but felt that, for me, this was a more appropriate solution. Surprisingly, I was able to use the factory injectors. I'm sure the day will come when parts become scarce enough that I'll wind up either going to a carb or to a newer Delphi EFI. Was the conversion a lot of work? That's one reason I went the T-Max route: It essentially required only swapping out the ECM
Your ECM swap sounds like it was a good choice. To be honest, I would prefer EFI, but the MM was not what I would call a closed loop system, as you know with having to add an o2 sensor with your new ECU. As long as you have that feedback, i would expect that the ECU can maintain the proper AF ratio. The carb swap was not hard. I was able to find a wiring sub harness for the carb version. I would say the worst part of the conversion was removing the FI connectors from the tank and installing the adaptors for the fuel valve.
@@busabobsgarage9876 I failed to mention that I already had O2 sensors installed for an air/fuel ratio gauge set that I used to road-tune with the PCIII. That's why it was only an ECM swap to get a closed-loop T-Max environment. The system still isn't up to par with a modern Delphi though, because it lacks a MAP sensor so there's no way for the ECM to know if I'm running 2k RPM, 25 % throttle (for example) at cruise or under accel/decel conditions. It's getting the job done though. I'm actually working right now on removing the AFR gauge and installing a cyl head temp gauge in its place (in the dash, where the ambient air temp gauge sat originally). That'll come in handy with this air cooled motor on an upcoming trip across the desert. I may hit you up when the time comes to consider switching to Delphi EFI or a carb, as I'm sure it eventually will. The one serious disadvantage to me with carbs is poor performance at elevation if jetted for sea level etc, but not everyone will deal with that.
Good point on the MAP sensor. Thanks for sharing the details on your setup. I'm sure this string will help someone make some decisions in the future. I hear you on the jetting for altitude.
Probably the right choice to ditch the MM, I yanked mine out and went with a Mikuni knock off. It runs great 👍 Check out my other vid on MM to carb conversion. Good luck with the project!
With my 97, it did not fix the issue, but I got the wrong TPS, so it is unknown if it would have fixed it. If you can get a cheap ebay TPS specifically for your model year, it might be worth a try.
Bob, I'm replacing all fuel line related O-rings with the induction module still on the engine, in the frame. It's not clear how to remove the fuel fittings from the top of the induction module. Do you remember how that's done? Do they just pull out?
Hi Chuck, After you remove the clamp that holds down the injectors and the snap rings on the fuel lines, you should be able to pry everything out or off of the throttle body if I recall. You may need a couple flat head screwdrivers or prying tools to keep even pressure on two sides as you pry up. They are not easy to get off or put back on.
hey, im trying to see what 2 o ring sizes this listed for the fuel fitting connections. i replaced the lines and I sliced into one. so ill replace all 4, but cant seem to find just those sizes.
I believe that the orings that I got were a kit from HD or drag specialties. I don't know if you will be able to find them individually. Make sure you put some sort of lube on them when installing.
@@busabobsgarage9876 yeah I ordered that rebuild kit you did a week ago, but I was hoping I could get just those 4 dang orings. I can’t find one close in the kit of orings I have
I'm not 100% positive, but I believe those are air adjustment screws. I would not mess with them unless you know what they are and how to adjust. I replaced the MM with a carb and not looking back.
Hello, I ditched the MM and did the carb swap. The best I could tell, it was either the TPS or the ignition timing. I never really got to the root of the problem.
I suggest that you follow the factory service manual instructions for testing the TPS so you know whether or not yours has a flat spot, and how big it is. It only requires basic hand tools and a voltmeter to do the test.
Thanks for this, mostly for showing the part numbers for the gaskets/O-ring kits you purchased! I was having a hard time locating those parts.
I have a 2000 Ultra with a MM system. They can be a bear to dial in, but they work fine once you get them there. The biggest issue I have is finding parts for it.
BTW, I ditched my PCIII and put in a ThunderMax, and I am super pleased with that decision. The PCIII is a piggy back system whereas the T-Max is a replacement ECM with a very nice auto tune system for the A/F mixture. The amount of money I've thrown down the drain on dyno time wouldn't have been necessary had I gone straight to the T-Max when I did my engine build. It does require that you put an O2 sensor in your header, but that's not a big deal.
A BIG advantage of the T-Max is that, because it's a replacement ECM rather than a piggyback like the PCIII, you don't have to guess at ignition timing: What you set the T-Max to is what you get. What you set the PCIII to is some amount of advance/retard of the ignition curve that's baked into the factory ECM, and I've spent a ton of time trying to find the actual specs on the factory ECM curve, to no avail.
The T-Max was without a doubt one of the best upgrades I've made.
BTW: My build is a 100-inch S&S Sidewinder Big Bore Kit, gear drive S&S 570 Easy Start cams, and a ThunderHeader 2-1.
I will say this, though, about ignition tuning with the T-Max (or any tuner for the era Harley EFI system): If you're going to do seat-of-the-pants road tuning of your timing, it's helpful to rig up a cheap digital tach and a cheap voltage gauge on your dash so that you can accurately identify the correct RPM & throttle position to adjust in the tuner. I'm in the process right now of assembling such a rig to in order to tune out some knock I've got under load.
I ended up ditching the MM and converted it to a Mikunu clone with a dynatek ignition set up for single fire. I think there are 4 timing curves. That T-Max sounds like a nice piece of kit. Did you have to go with bigger injectors?
@@busabobsgarage9876 I seriously considered switching to a carb but felt that, for me, this was a more appropriate solution. Surprisingly, I was able to use the factory injectors.
I'm sure the day will come when parts become scarce enough that I'll wind up either going to a carb or to a newer Delphi EFI.
Was the conversion a lot of work? That's one reason I went the T-Max route: It essentially required only swapping out the ECM
Your ECM swap sounds like it was a good choice. To be honest, I would prefer EFI, but the MM was not what I would call a closed loop system, as you know with having to add an o2 sensor with your new ECU. As long as you have that feedback, i would expect that the ECU can maintain the proper AF ratio. The carb swap was not hard. I was able to find a wiring sub harness for the carb version. I would say the worst part of the conversion was removing the FI connectors from the tank and installing the adaptors for the fuel valve.
@@busabobsgarage9876 I failed to mention that I already had O2 sensors installed for an air/fuel ratio gauge set that I used to road-tune with the PCIII. That's why it was only an ECM swap to get a closed-loop T-Max environment.
The system still isn't up to par with a modern Delphi though, because it lacks a MAP sensor so there's no way for the ECM to know if I'm running 2k RPM, 25 % throttle (for example) at cruise or under accel/decel conditions. It's getting the job done though.
I'm actually working right now on removing the AFR gauge and installing a cyl head temp gauge in its place (in the dash, where the ambient air temp gauge sat originally). That'll come in handy with this air cooled motor on an upcoming trip across the desert.
I may hit you up when the time comes to consider switching to Delphi EFI or a carb, as I'm sure it eventually will. The one serious disadvantage to me with carbs is poor performance at elevation if jetted for sea level etc, but not everyone will deal with that.
Good point on the MAP sensor. Thanks for sharing the details on your setup. I'm sure this string will help someone make some decisions in the future. I hear you on the jetting for altitude.
mines so jacked up im yanking it and going CV. not worth it. But its good to see someone showing this.
Probably the right choice to ditch the MM, I yanked mine out and went with a Mikuni knock off. It runs great 👍 Check out my other vid on MM to carb conversion. Good luck with the project!
thank you for breaking this down
Glad that it helped!
With my 97, it did not fix the issue, but I got the wrong TPS, so it is unknown if it would have fixed it. If you can get a cheap ebay TPS specifically for your model year, it might be worth a try.
Bob, I'm replacing all fuel line related O-rings with the induction module still on the engine, in the frame. It's not clear how to remove the fuel fittings from the top of the induction module. Do you remember how that's done? Do they just pull out?
Hi Chuck, After you remove the clamp that holds down the injectors and the snap rings on the fuel lines, you should be able to pry everything out or off of the throttle body if I recall. You may need a couple flat head screwdrivers or prying tools to keep even pressure on two sides as you pry up. They are not easy to get off or put back on.
@@busabobsgarage9876 thanks Bob, that worked
Great video! Do happen to have the old injectors? Did they work? Want to sell them?
Sorry, I already sold the throttle body and everything on it to recoup some of the cost of the carb swap.
i have a complete M/M NO cut wires i toke the extra time to take off with out damage HAPPY WRENCHING
hey, im trying to see what 2 o ring sizes this listed for the fuel fitting connections. i replaced the lines and I sliced into one. so ill replace all 4, but cant seem to find just those sizes.
I believe that the orings that I got were a kit from HD or drag specialties. I don't know if you will be able to find them individually. Make sure you put some sort of lube on them when installing.
@@busabobsgarage9876 yeah I ordered that rebuild kit you did a week ago, but I was hoping I could get just those 4 dang orings. I can’t find one close in the kit of orings I have
Hello. Do the two screws above the flaps need to be tightened or do they also need to be adjusted?
I'm not 100% positive, but I believe those are air adjustment screws. I would not mess with them unless you know what they are and how to adjust. I replaced the MM with a carb and not looking back.
Whats the capped off part next to the tps? The rubber nipple.
That's a good question. The only thing that I can think of is a vacuum port for an accessory not connected on this bike.
@@busabobsgarage9876its. California thing apperently. Some egr thing
Hi I have a 2001 road king that is having the same issue as your bike,did you figure what your issue is on your bike?
Hello, I ditched the MM and did the carb swap. The best I could tell, it was either the TPS or the ignition timing. I never really got to the root of the problem.
Can we use your link on our website for the 1995-2001's
Can you send me a link to the proposed location? I would like to take a look at your site.
@@busabobsgarage9876 So after seeing our site can we use your link. Thanks
What is the link to your website?
what was the actual symptoms of your bike curious about mine?
The main issue was that I had a dead spot when coming on the throttle around 2500-3000 RPM.
mine will give a cough or two at low speed like a light back fire but at cruise it seems unnoticeable @@busabobsgarage9876
Does anybody know how to get intouch with his shop?
Which "shop" are you referring to?
The TPS setting is very finicky on these bikes, ignore all the voltages and all that bullshit and just tune it by feel.
Did replacing the TPS correct the problem around 2000 rpm’s? I’m having the exact symptoms on my 2001 ultra
I suggest that you follow the factory service manual instructions for testing the TPS so you know whether or not yours has a flat spot, and how big it is. It only requires basic hand tools and a voltmeter to do the test.
I have the same problem, did you solve the problem?
Yes it did
@@fatboys124 with a new tps?
No From the factory it was misadjusted. But it did solve the issue around 2000 rpm