watched the video. "i don't need no damn special shaved allen tool" attempted the repair. "ok i absolutely need that special shaved allen tool" ended up sacrificing a 5/16 to a hand file, worked awesome, thanks so much boss
Great video, thank you. I just did a family member's V50 front springs and took the hub assemblies right off the driveshafts and lower control arms before dropping the struts. Now I have to do another family member's V40 due to more broken springs, but you've demonstrated how I don't need to waste more time & effort by just releasing the pinch bolt and opening the jaws! So a big thanks from me.🇬🇧 *Update: I made the tool with the bench grinder and it worked flawlessly. Thanks again
Great tips! You can also loosely leave the axle bolt in to prevent the outer spline from popping out of the hub. Thanks for showing you don't have to remove the brake caliper, disk and tie rod, definitely makes it easier
This was hugely helpful. Did both struts on my V50 in 45 minutes. The 8mm special tool is the key. I also sanded off the paint on the new strut and lubed up the knuckle to get it to seat. Thank you!
@@vinceculum9873 grind it down so it looks like a fat, flat bladed screwdriver. The thickness is exactly what you need to pry open the slot to loosen the strut
Hi Chris- Just did my 07 S40. For the install, I think there are two really important parts: MAKE the 8mm allen wrench tool and use as described. At first, I tried a screwdriver. No go. Also I used Monroe Quik Struts as replacements. I found these to be a tiny bit larger in diameter than the oem when measured with a micrometer. I cleaned up the seat and made sure to sand the scoring made by previous strut, and sanded the paint off the quik strut. Then applied a small amount of grease to the seat, and boom! slid in effortlessly with the allen wrench tool in place. I tried this without the sanding and cleanup and found it impossible for the strut to seat properly so that the clamping stud could be installed. Hope this comment helps out my fellow Volvo Vikings. Great video. Keep up the great work!
Great video, very precise and no bullshit, like the tip regarding the clamp holding the shock absorber, shame about the video camera constantly going out of focus but in the end didn't really matter.
Thank you, thank you very much for your video, it is the best, I wish it could change the light strut on my old Volvo V50 Greetings from Sweden 👍👍💥💥✨✨✨✨
Awesome job, I have just bought some cheap (I know) front shocks for my C70 2.0D Manual battle bus and I would like to see how you get the spring off using a spring clamp as most DIYers dont have full blown kit and if there are any quirks to doing such as you have shown with releasing the strut from the control arm. Thanks in advance.
this is the bible channel for every Volvo owner and lover, I have a question regarding replacing the automatic transmission fluid. I own 2007 Volvo S40, Mileage less than 110k km, Do I have to replace the transmission fluid despite the owner manual does not mention anything for that? and what kind of fluid and capacity does the car need? Thanks
I have a C70II does the strut mount spin easily under load ? I ask because I'm building a complete new assembly to replace the old struts (104.000 miles) so got everything new to do a straight swap, but when I released the spring compressor the top mount will hardly move so stiff (spin) is that normal please ? I've lined up the top mount bearing housing with the spring end (top) or have I done something wrong ? Thanks in advance.
@@moosetechgaragevolvocarswe4286 no, at the end of the video you say that you are going to have another video showing how to take the strut apart or maybe you meant the coil form the strut? Anyway, I have a 2008 S40 so the video really helped me figure out what i need to do. Im gonna try it soon
@@SupplyHouseAce gotcha, you basically compress the spring, take the top 18mm off, and disassemble. when you reinstall everything, line up the bearing tab with the rear of the strut and you are golden.
I am working on a 2013 S60 and can’t get the control arm to drop low enough to remove the strut. The control arm is hitting the frame in the lowest position and there’s still 1/4” before the strut is free. Do you have to remove the lower ball joint? I am having a hard time finding a ball joint removal tool for this P3 S60. Could you recommend any other tips or where I could get this ball joint tool?
2014 XC70 T6 Awesome video. What is the trick for getting the spindle assembly off the strut???? I can get it lowered about 1/2 inch and it is loose, but I can't get it any lower. HELP
Hopefully you can help me. In your video you recommend removing the axle bolt to prevent dislocating the cv joint. Well I completely forgot that step, ended up overextending the cv joint. Spun the rotor just a bit and it popped back in place. The job is complete, the car is back on the road. What potential problems could arise? Did this cause any damage of the cv joint/ axle? What should I watch for in the near future? Thank you for your videos, if i would do what you suggest my projects will probably go smoother.
hahha, thanks man. you will probably be fine if it slipped back in no problem. sometimes you can damage the inner bearings and cause vibration under acceleration later on. not likely if it went back in smoothly.
Hello, I have volvo v40 r design ( is -10mm lower that normal v40 ) and I need to replacement front springs, Are there any special springs for r design or its the same spring like in normal volvo v40? I cant fing information about that in internet.
HEY SIMON, IF YOU HAVE A SHOP THAT IS WILLING TO PRESS OFF YOUR WORN BUSHINGS, I RECOMMEND ADDING WHITELINE WALK KIT BUSHINGS TO YOUR EXISTING ARMS. OTHERWISE, ONLY OEM WILL LAST ON FACTORY STYLE BUSHINGS. IF YOU WENT WITH FACTORY STYLE, DEFINITELY GET THE SPORT/DYNAMIC ARMS.
Is there any difference in replacement parts for the R Design? I have a 2011 c30 R Design and I know the suspension is a little bit different than the base. Which struts do I buy?
I have a 2012 C30 R Line and the ride is really harsh, I've already replaced the tires with soft sidewall tires (Bridgestone Turanza) but that didn't help much. I'm now considering replacing the R Line struts with base model struts to soften the ride. Do you think this will work and do you have any other solutions? Thank you for posting the video.
not many people complain the ride is harsh in these cars, but yes the standard (comfort) ride shocks will help with your issue. make sure you are using a quality tire with a sidewall that isn't too stiff or you will be shooting yourself in the foot. aside from the suspension, you can pick up a set of 17 inch wheels and put on some 235x45 17s (size will depend how wide your rims are) this will also give you a cushier ride.
@@moosetechgaragevolvocarswe4286Thank you very much for the reply. Is there any difference in spring rate in the coil spring portion of the strut between the R Line and the base model?
1 problem with your video is this...everything you did was Great! Now the bad part ! Reverse Order to install new Strut Assembly!! You left out telling your viewers that you only snug Up Top Bolts of Strut!! Then you take Volvo Off lift!!!!!!!! And tighten down 3 top bolts!! This must be done on Normal load of car sitting on ground!! Or you Blow Top mount Bushings bearings etc!! Did you LEAVE THAT OUT ON PURPOSE??
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6lZ6b3_7Vo/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change a front shock strut on VOLVO V50 1 (P12) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
watched the video.
"i don't need no damn special shaved allen tool"
attempted the repair.
"ok i absolutely need that special shaved allen tool"
ended up sacrificing a 5/16 to a hand file, worked awesome, thanks so much boss
I am a retired master auto technician. This is one of the best instructional videos I’ve ever seen on TH-cam. Excellent, thumbs up…
I agree
You are my savior! Your 8mm hex wrench trick just fixed the problem I’ve been struggling with for two days. My most heartfelt thanks. 😊
Great video, thank you. I just did a family member's V50 front springs and took the hub assemblies right off the driveshafts and lower control arms before dropping the struts. Now I have to do another family member's V40 due to more broken springs, but you've demonstrated how I don't need to waste more time & effort by just releasing the pinch bolt and opening the jaws! So a big thanks from me.🇬🇧
*Update: I made the tool with the bench grinder and it worked flawlessly. Thanks again
I followed the same instructions step by step and it worked. Even the 8mm allen key thing.
Very helpful. Thank you for your time. ✌
Great tips! You can also loosely leave the axle bolt in to prevent the outer spline from popping out of the hub. Thanks for showing you don't have to remove the brake caliper, disk and tie rod, definitely makes it easier
Are you saying it will be easier if you remove the tie rod or not necessary?
This was hugely helpful. Did both struts on my V50 in 45 minutes. The 8mm special tool is the key. I also sanded off the paint on the new strut and lubed up the knuckle to get it to seat. Thank you!
Hey been trying to look up the 8mm tool. Where did you find this special tool.
@@vinceculum9873 make one out of an 8mm Allen key and a grinder
@@cypilotiowan4761 oh ok I'll try it out thank you
@@vinceculum9873 grind it down so it looks like a fat, flat bladed screwdriver. The thickness is exactly what you need to pry open the slot to loosen the strut
Hi Chris- Just did my 07 S40. For the install, I think there are two really important parts:
MAKE the 8mm allen wrench tool and use as described. At first, I tried a screwdriver. No go. Also I used Monroe Quik Struts as replacements. I found these to be a tiny bit larger in diameter than the oem when measured with a micrometer. I cleaned up the seat and made sure to sand the scoring made by previous strut, and sanded the paint off the quik strut. Then applied a small amount of grease to the seat, and boom! slid in effortlessly with the allen wrench tool in place. I tried this without the sanding and cleanup and found it impossible for the strut to seat properly so that the clamping stud could be installed. Hope this comment helps out my fellow Volvo Vikings. Great video. Keep up the great work!
Two years later, how do you like the Monroe quick struts?
I had the same issue with a Monroe quick strut. Complete NOGO with the paint on
Great video, very precise and no bullshit, like the tip regarding the clamp holding the shock absorber, shame about the video camera constantly going out of focus but in the end didn't really matter.
sweet..thanks for the 8mm allen wrench idea!
Well explained short and sweet. Thanks for sharing knowledge 🙏 the most valuable commodity
Excellent video. Please do similar videos for every other part of the car 😁
Brillant - thanks for tip on loosening the strut from the hub
Thank you, thank you very much for your video, it is the best, I wish it could change the light strut on my old Volvo V50
Greetings from Sweden 👍👍💥💥✨✨✨✨
Wish you did a rear video 😩 but this one definitely helped with the front atleast very clear and easy
really clear video , great simple to follow description too. well done.
thanks! time allowing, we will have more videos like this in the future
Perfect, I'll be attempting to replace my springs soon, so this came in handy! I doubt if I'll get them out as fast though. :)
Men you make it look so simple!!! Thanks
Been trying to do mine for the last two days, for some reason mine is not that easy, Great video keep up the good work,HEEEEELLLPPP ...! 😁
Great video! Will be referencing very soon when I get my coilovers!
Thank you Rick for the video. I have a p3. 2008v70. Do you think the hub would move off end of strut in the same manner? Thank you!
Awesome job, I have just bought some cheap (I know) front shocks for my C70 2.0D Manual battle bus and I would like to see how you get the spring off using a spring clamp as most DIYers dont have full blown kit and if there are any quirks to doing such as you have shown with releasing the strut from the control arm. Thanks in advance.
Great video, thanks. Looks the same procedure as on my XC60, 2009 , 2.4D
Great video, Thank you. So simple to do but why are Volvo dealers charge you so much $$ and man hours to do this job?
Awesome video! Any chance you can provide the torque specs?
I bought battery impact wrench, how hard do I screw all back together?
Where can I buy that Volvo tool to remove the front struts? I don't exactly have a machine shop to start shaving down Allen keys
this is the bible channel for every Volvo owner and lover, I have a question regarding replacing the automatic transmission fluid. I own 2007 Volvo S40, Mileage less than 110k km, Do I have to replace the transmission fluid despite the owner manual does not mention anything for that? and what kind of fluid and capacity does the car need? Thanks
Can you do grv cleaning on Volvo v50
Can i use a crowbar or a ball joint separator instead of that tool?
I learned a good idea from you. thanks for that.
I have a C70II does the strut mount spin easily under load ? I ask because I'm building a complete new assembly to replace the old struts (104.000 miles) so got everything new to do a straight swap, but when I released the spring compressor the top mount will hardly move so stiff (spin) is that normal please ? I've lined up the top mount bearing housing with the spring end (top) or have I done something wrong ? Thanks in advance.
need a vid on rear strut 2003 v40
Will you be making a video on how to remove the struts soon?
this is the video on how to remove your struts. are you talking about for another model?
@@moosetechgaragevolvocarswe4286 no, at the end of the video you say that you are going to have another video showing how to take the strut apart or maybe you meant the coil form the strut? Anyway, I have a 2008 S40 so the video really helped me figure out what i need to do. Im gonna try it soon
@@SupplyHouseAce gotcha, you basically compress the spring, take the top 18mm off, and disassemble. when you reinstall everything, line up the bearing tab with the rear of the strut and you are golden.
@@moosetechgaragevolvocarswe4286 man thank you so much for the quick response. You guys rock
I am working on a 2013 S60 and can’t get the control arm to drop low enough to remove the strut. The control arm is hitting the frame in the lowest position and there’s still 1/4” before the strut is free. Do you have to remove the lower ball joint? I am having a hard time finding a ball joint removal tool for this P3 S60. Could you recommend any other tips or where I could get this ball joint tool?
2014 XC70 T6
Awesome video. What is the trick for getting the spindle assembly off the strut???? I can get it lowered about 1/2 inch and it is loose, but I can't get it any lower. HELP
Have the same issue... hope you had better luck getting around that
Question: Do you remove the axle completely from the steering knuckle or just loosen it? Thanks for the video - it's really well done!
THANKS! just loosen it so the inner joint doesn't come out when you bend the spindle outward
Any views on replacing the top strut bearings with Powerflex bushes? Also, should I be getting the 14mm or 12mm version for an RDesign T5? Thx.
Hopefully you can help me. In your video you recommend removing the axle bolt to prevent dislocating the cv joint. Well I completely forgot that step, ended up overextending the cv joint. Spun the rotor just a bit and it popped back in place.
The job is complete, the car is back on the road. What potential problems could arise? Did this cause any damage of the cv joint/ axle? What should I watch for in the near future?
Thank you for your videos, if i would do what you suggest my projects will probably go smoother.
hahha, thanks man. you will probably be fine if it slipped back in no problem. sometimes you can damage the inner bearings and cause vibration under acceleration later on. not likely if it went back in smoothly.
@@moosetechgaragevolvocarswe4286 thank you for your quick reply, and thanks again for your videos they are very helpful!
thank you for the video. Did you made the Allen wrench yourself (tapered end)? How do you fit the wrench into the "slot?"
Yea you just shave the 8mm down. It fits snug between the spindle
Hello, I have volvo v40 r design ( is -10mm lower that normal v40 ) and I need to replacement front springs, Are there any special springs for r design or its the same spring like in normal volvo v40? I cant fing information about that in internet.
Had my 2012 C70 D3 MOTd today
Advisory on front suspension arm pin or bush worn ?
Have u covered this ? What is best longer lasting replacements
HEY SIMON, IF YOU HAVE A SHOP THAT IS WILLING TO PRESS OFF YOUR WORN BUSHINGS, I RECOMMEND ADDING WHITELINE WALK KIT BUSHINGS TO YOUR EXISTING ARMS. OTHERWISE, ONLY OEM WILL LAST ON FACTORY STYLE BUSHINGS. IF YOU WENT WITH FACTORY STYLE, DEFINITELY GET THE SPORT/DYNAMIC ARMS.
How's the project going, need my vids
I'm assuming this works on a P3?
You still active?
Is there any difference in replacement parts for the R Design? I have a 2011 c30 R Design and I know the suspension is a little bit different than the base. Which struts do I buy?
No
So is this the same with a 2011 Volvo C70
Thank you
I have a 2012 C30 R Line and the ride is really harsh, I've already replaced the tires with soft sidewall tires (Bridgestone Turanza) but that didn't help much. I'm now considering replacing the R Line struts with base model struts to soften the ride. Do you think this will work and do you have any other solutions? Thank you for posting the video.
not many people complain the ride is harsh in these cars, but yes the standard (comfort) ride shocks will help with your issue. make sure you are using a quality tire with a sidewall that isn't too stiff or you will be shooting yourself in the foot. aside from the suspension, you can pick up a set of 17 inch wheels and put on some 235x45 17s (size will depend how wide your rims are) this will also give you a cushier ride.
@@moosetechgaragevolvocarswe4286Thank you very much for the reply. Is there any difference in spring rate in the coil spring portion of the strut between the R Line and the base model?
@@kend.9012 Yes the spring rate is about 10%stiffer on the Rdesign. I am not sure the exact spec on the rates.
That's great 👍your amazing
1 problem with your video is this...everything you did was Great! Now the bad part ! Reverse Order to install new Strut Assembly!! You left out telling your viewers that you only snug Up Top Bolts of Strut!! Then you take Volvo Off lift!!!!!!!! And tighten down 3 top bolts!! This must be done on Normal load of car sitting on ground!! Or you Blow Top mount Bushings bearings etc!! Did you LEAVE THAT OUT ON PURPOSE??
The strut tower has bearings??
The strut has a ball bearing top right under the upper mount.
@@moosetechgaragevolvocarswe4286 hmmmm that's got to be what I'm hearing then. Thanks!
Say it ain't So master mechanic not
????? Answer that Question!! Because it looks kinda stupid that you did not stress that my friend!! Other than that Good Video
It looks simple, but when I will be doing it, I'm going to shit all over the world if one bolt does not want to come out
What about volvo V60 2012?
MAYBE IN THE NEAR FUTURE. THEY ARE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT. SAME PROCESS, BUT WITH A 10MM SHAVED ALLEN. AND A LOT MORE EFFORT TO LOWER THE SPINDLE
thanks :D same same but different
@@kalangrega BASICALLY HAHA
@@moosetechgaragevolvocarswe4286 Can confirm much extra effort needed, the strut itself is also quite heavier, it's kinda hard to hold one handed.
it pains me that he does this in such a short time while im 2 days in because of rusted boltsand bad tools
No need to take a drivershaft off.
taking the splined end out a bit is just insurance for the DIYer not to hurt the inner joint.
never fking hammer a screw in its thread, repeat after me: never hammer a screw in its thread.
Can I just use a flathead screwdriver instead of that shaved Allen wrench?
so why do you have to remove the drive shaft bolt??
Because you don't want to pull CV Joint out or loose
U mean the Spindal bolt!!