How to: Volvo C30 S40 V50 C70 Right Axle Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2018
- How to replace the passenger side or right axle on a Volvo C30. Similar procedure can also be found on the S40, V50, and C70 models. Typically a dry or worn cv joint can cause vibrations under acceleration or at certain speeds, create a clicking noise, and then having a growling noise similar to a bearing depending on the severity. After extensive searching, while some people have had good experience with aftermarket units, it should also be mentioned that issues with aftermarket units is quite common unfortunately. This can include vibrations, the shaft sheering after the spline, and premature failures. I spoke a couple different axle and driveshaft rebuilders, unfortunately they did not list rebuild kits for the cv joints. I then emailed GKN directly who is the factory manufacturer for these Volvo axles, but they do not offer rebuild kits either and unfortunately the automatic and manual vehicles list different part number. If you are in Europe, then you can use the Ford Focus ST axle which apparently from what I’ve found is a direct fit. However by the time an exchange rate was applied, along with shipping and import taxes, it wasn’t worth it for me. You can also go with a used route, but the life expectancy can be unknown. So instead I took the plunge and bought an OEM unit from the dealer. #volvo #volvoc30 #volvos40
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-T25 driver
-T30 driver
-10mm socket
-10mm wrench
-21mm socket
-13mm socket
-ball joint separator
-pry bar
-oil pan
-gear oil
-dead blow hammer
-torque wrench
Procedure:
-elevate the front of the vehicle, remove the wheel, and use a jack stand
-remove the 3 T25 torx screws on the rear of the fender liner
-then remove the 5 T25 torx screws at the front of the liner
-remove the two 10mm plastic nuts on the inside of the fender liner behind the strut assembly
-remove the one T30 torx screw for the belly pan
-to remove the fender liner, pull the inside portion behind the strut back towards you, pull down, and then pull out
-remove the 21mm nut for the lower ball joint
-remove the 13mm in the center of the spindle
-to break the ball joint free, use a ball joint separating tool
-using a pry bar between the control arm and sway bar, pull the control arm down to disconnect the ball joint
-pull the spindle assembly away from the axle to separate the spline
-remove the bearing retaining clamp for the axle bearing, it uses two 10mm bolts
-place an oil pan under the transaxle where the axle sits to catch any dripping oil
-now remove the axle
-to remove the bearing clamp which maybe stuck in place, use a dead blow hammer to tap it off
-apply a light amount of gear oil to the spline and where the seal seats
-reinstall the axle and align it’s position with the bearing carrier
-next is pushing the control arm down to reinstall that ball joint. For this I pushed it down by hand, then insert something between the sway bar and control arm. Then use the pry bar to push it down further and reinstall the ball joint.
-install the axle spline back into spindle assembly and you can use the bolt to help draw it back into place
-the torque spec for this bolt is 26 ft lbs or 35mn and then once that torque valve has been achieve, tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees
-install the bearing clamp, the torque specs for these bolts is about 7.5 ft lbs or 10nm
-reinstall the ball joint nut and the torque specs are 52 ft lbs or 70nm
-reinstall the fender liner, wheel, and you’re done
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Generally very useful. I think it's worth mentioning that when you remove the driveshaft from the gearbox, oil won't be "dripping", the box will dump its entire contents just like you've removed the sump drain plug. I was not at all prepared for this and put a small tray underneath which filled in about 5 seconds and then caused an environmental disaster! Renewing the gearbox oil should be part of every tutorial for this, even though the Haynes manual didn't even mention it. Also, on some (newer?) models, there is a plastic cover over the gap between the hub and the shaft, which I think also functions as the ABS/DSTC sensor ring. This doesn't come with the new shaft, and I didn't notice it was missing until everything was together, so I had to take it apart again and fit the old one.
Yeah man you were lucky. I just had a rag underneath 😂. I lost what seemed like a litre of gear oil. I had to go out afterwards with hot water, dish soap and a stiff brush. Got the drive shaft sorted tho...💪
Terrific video. Clear, concise, and complete.
After following these simple instructions I’ve been able to replace my driveshaft on my Volvo V50,successfully.
It’s such a clear and easy video to watch and following including the torque settings.
Great to hear, thank you for the feedback!
Did it leak any gear oil? Causing you to have to refill? Im going to change my drive axle as well and was told that it will leak some gear oil that i will need to fill up
Do you know if the awd axles in the v50 are the same as the fwd?
Perfect, just what I was looking for. Thanks for posting.
Excellent to hear and happy to help!
Scotty got competition now best explain video I ever seen
Thank you!
Good job. I've done so many CV axles that I think I could do them in my sleep.
Nice touch cleaning up the old grease and oil and spraying with a rust inhibitor!
Thank you! I think I've owned more rwd than fwd vehicles so I've managed to be fairly lucky with regards to cv joint failures.
I wonder how he Torqued those 10 mm Clamp Screws..no room for Torque wrench...? DID YOU GUESS TORQUE
This video is concise and spot on. The only thing I would add is that it would be worth mentioning to the diy'ers who don't have access to ball joint separation tool, that you can turn the wheel to get a clear shot at the control arm and give it a couple good whacks with a hammer, which also avoids the risk of damaging the ball joint boot.
Two thumbs up, best video on the subject!
Thank you for the feedback and tip!
The other option is to remove the three bolts attaching the ball joint carrier to the control arm, although factory arms don't have nuts so this is only if your control arms have been replaced with this type in the past (pretty likely since all C30/V50/S40 cars are pretty ancient now)!
One of the best video demonstrations I've seen Thanks!
Thank you so much!
your videos are great, I managed to change both my front and rear brakes on my c30. really easy videos to. follow. please keep up the fantasic work. really helpful for me having a visual display as I'm dyslexic.
Awesome to hear, thank you so much for the feedback!
Just replaced my driveshaft on my V50 2005 using your video and I couldn't have done it without it, many thanks!! My vibrating issue is less it seems but still there so I will have to continue my search but WoW thank you.
Thank you so much for the feedback, awesome to hear my video helped you out! Vibrations can also happen from an imbalanced wheel, bent wheel, faulty tire, wheel isn't seated correctly on the hub, loose lug nuts, some aftermarket axles have issues in the cv joints, faulty wheel bearing, and even some suspension components can cause vibrations.
Engine mounts may also be the problem. Had to replace all of them on my V50.
Replaced mine today using your video. Thank You SO MUCH!!! 🙌🏻
Awesome to hear, happy I could help!
Very helpful indeed. I watched many videos recently, this is a first one I noticed that no need to remove the strut from hub housing. Nice job!
Awesome to hear, thank you for the feedback :) I'll definitely have more C30 videos in the future as well.
Truly the best DIYer, love this guy!
Thank you so much!
thank you because of your video,...... i did it all today i couldn't do it with out you i wouldn't know where to begin!!
Awesome to hear and thank you so much for the feedback!
Thanks Man ! i'll need to do that job pretty soon, took a big pothole a month ago an dit started vibrating around 45MPh and when accelerating harder than normal.
The OEM part is quite pricy in canada ( or for my personal liking ) I'll have to see what the part counter guy can do..
this is a well made video with great voiceover. Hope your C30 goes a long way !
Could you let me know if you ever did the job, how easy it was, and all? I've got an 05 V50 which I fear has bad CV joints (Vibration @ 1000-1800RPM in 5th gear, 35-50MPH). Sound similar?
One of the best videos i have seen.
Thank you :) Soon to have more Volvo videos to come too.
great video, used it step by step.
suggestions:
(a) removing the sump guard, allows better access to the shaft bearing clamp, (b) also I mechanically and electrically removed the pitch sensor, but caution note tight electrical connection “take your time”
Thank you for the feedback :)
I like how you first clean off the grease for applying it again the next step :)
This is excellent. Confidence inspiring.
Thank you!
Being from the UK, and a focus st owner, I can confirm it is the same driveshaft.
Thank you for the info!
Great to know. Do you have the part number?
Thanks mate! Excellent video👍
Thank you :)
Thanks a lot from Germany!
You made it look so easy thanks
No problem, happy I could help!
You rock buddy, thanks for the help!
Glad to help!
Thanks for posting!
No problem, happy to help :)
Great video as usual thanks
Totally helpful, thanks a lot 🙏
Great video hope my girlfriends s40 is this easy
Thank you!
Used your video to replace the right front passenger side cv axle on my 2009 Volvo c30 today. Step by step. Was it easy? No. But with just a little bit of sweat, I was done before 11:00 am. Your instructions are perfect. You probably saved me a grand. Thank you so very much for posting this video. You have a friend for life in Austin Texas right here. This repair eliminated the vibration I was experiencing under acceleration.
11am..what time did you start?
Did your Volvo make a certain noise, I’m trying to figure out if the noise I hear is the axle or hub bearing
It's a matter of luck if the little clip lines up on bottom side of shaft end..just keep turning it a little and try again..it can be a Pain..but you will feel proud of yourself
5 ibs slide hammer with 63.5mm wide U End...make sure 63.5mm..alot of them r 2 small
@@tiadavis5787 could be tires
Great video! Thanks!
You're welcome!
was very help full thank you for your video thump up all the way )))))
good work thanks have a nice day
Thank you and you too.
Great job!
Thank you!
The GKN Lobro OEM replacement axles are available in the USA for about half the cost of the Volvo part - $300 shipped. Several vendors carry them. I just replaced this axle on my 2008 C70 T5. No fluid should leak out of the automatics anyway.
Awesome, thank you! Do you have a link you can post to help out fellow viewers? Was that for an automatic or manual?
@@4DIYers FCP Euro has them for sure so I started here. Then I think I googled the part number + GKN and bought at the place with the better price. There are many vendors now that sell them. This was for an automatic. Box says Made in Spain.
Hello, one question. How is the quality of GKN? Is it in good condition after one year? Thanks
I have not tried to fix my c30 yet but WOW this was such a great informative video Thank you so incredibly much!!!!!!!!!!!!! I hope you are incredibly blessed in all you do Thank you Thank you thank you. One question how similar is the drivers side? My car is being used by my son in college and I do not know if I am going to need to do both sides.
Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback! I haven't done the driver's side yet, however the axle is about half the length is the biggest difference. The replacement should be very similar.
before going to replace cv joint-check top mount for the struts , top mounting screw is getting loose ?
The drivers side is exactly the same except you'll have to pry the axle out. What I did was:
•Put in neutral
•Hammered a fork in between where the axle inserts into the transaxle until it pops out.
If you look at the new axle you'll see why. It has a retaining clip on it. You'll also probably have to give the new axle a couple taps with a hammer in order to get it all the way in.
Hmmm. NATURALLY, this showed up on my feed AFTER I had both axles done. Sigh. Good video! I liked the views down inside the shaft alley. Still, I don't feel too bad about letting my shop do this. ~$1000, both sides.
Thank you! Well I have plenty of other videos on this car to save some money.
Great vidéo , Can you tell me what's the reference of your ball joint separator tool ? Those i have doesn't fit .
Hey 4DIYers, for this model, is the angle-gear/trans oil level right at the axle? Meaning, if I jacked it up and did this job, whatever oil came out should theoretically be from an overfill? I read on swedespeed a tablespoon or so is normal...just had a bit more than that and not sure if I should stress to replace it. How much did you lose? Thanks!
Question would a bad cv axle cause rough shifting when changing gears i have the same car and it is a auto i know my passenger cv Axel boot is bad so would that cause clunking n bad shifts during gear change
Does this apply to a 2011 c30? The inner cv joint was leaking grease from the boot. The car didnt make any troubling noises when I was driving it until now. Btw, how much are the cv joints from the dealer?
Nice, thank you
You're welcome!
great video, some little things however, fender liner doesn't need to be removed, and you can do this just as easily by unbolting the front bolt of the control arm instead of the ball joint, gives you more room too
Yes..but then Tighten LCA with Load...
Which brand of gear oil or can I use a different type of oil? Great vid. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, very useful as always.
Could you tell me where did you get the ball joint separator from? I bought one from Princess Auto but it won't fit. I'm located in Canada too. Appreciate your help.
Thank you so much for sharing this video, it's very helpful! Do I need to drain the gearbox oil (automatic transmission) before removing the shaft?
I finally got a chance to do the job, no, there is no need to drain the gearbox oil but there might be a small amount of oil escaping from the gearbox which is normal. Thank you for video again!
Any reason you replaced the full axle rather than buying an axle boot kit to replace the ripped boot and grease? I believe my passenger side has a small tear and is leaking grease but not sure if I should buy the $23 GKN boot kit or the full axle assembly.
very methodically explained! I have a question on rear bushings on a volvo v50, does that suggest to change the swaybar links and other. In that case what and have you made a video about it?
Thank you! Bushings will fail in different intervals and this can also be affected on the quality of parts used as well.
@@4DIYers you misunderstood me, my question was:
When a guy at a garage says your rear bushings on the car are done for, what part in the rear concerning bushings does he mean?
Are these ball joints replaceable without replacing control arm? Cant find a ball joint video
I have a question ! on my 2.0D i must change it too , but , do you remove oil before ??? great for the job anyway ! you will help me a lot ! (french guy :D )
MAN! Dosent look to bad. I think I have a problem on the driver side. Ill send you a link to a recording in PM. Thanks in advance if you could listen to it and try hear if it is the same as you had on your Volvo.
Thanks
Happy to help!
Looks easy
Great video. My C30 is bagged and puts a lot of stress on my axels so I know I’m gonna have to do this at some point. Educating myself now before they ultimately fail. How much were the OEM axels? I’m still considering getting mine from autozone cuz if it’s free replacements I think.
Thank you! If I remember correctly, the one axle was $700. I did manage to get the dealer down in price a little, it would have been over $800 with tax. I have plenty of other C30 videos if you're looking for more repair tutorials too :)
Well. I just finished doing mine. Thank you for your video. Doing my driver side also this weekend so they wear equally.
Do not get aftermarket wheels. If your putting any kind of power through them, mine is lowered as well, one just exploded 15k miles later. Started shaking almost immediately
So I just finished and I have to say - It was much much easier just to just remove the inner side of the LCA. Separating that ball joint was extremely difficult. But the 18mm and 2x 15mm bolts on the inner side of the LCA came out in 5 minutes with cautious untightening.
But did you pre-load the control arm bushings?
@@4DIYers I torqued it after pulling on top of ramps. My particular case was just challenging (16 year old original ball joints)
Hi and thanks for the nice vid.
Question: you didn't change the driveshaft seal right? Aren't you supposed to do that every time the axle is removed? Would be a shame if it starts leaking. What are the chances - I'm doing a s40 at the moment.
Cheers HB
No Seal..just insert and put Clamp on a tighten those 10 mm bolts the 2 of them
I have a C70 how do you fill the transmission up great video
I am rebooting my OEM axel using a GKN boot kit. I caught the leak early.
It is seemingly impossible to get any kind of wrench onto that 21mm bolt.
I notice in the description in the tool required you wrote 21mm socket, but you used a wrench.
Wouldn't you need something like a crowfoot socket to torque this?
21mm wrench, just a typo. You should be able to fit the box end of a wrench in there and if that doesn't work, you can use the open end. I do have a crowfoot set, but it doesn't go up to 21mm. However if you are torquing it, you would need a crowfoot. And make sure you do the calculation for the offset of the wrench. If the crowfoot is perpendicular to the torque wrench, no need for a calculation.
How would i go about finding an axle to fit my volvo v50? I ordered one from rockauto which claim to be oe parts and the axle i received is a little longer than the one i pulled.
How much longer? It will be a little longer as the old one is, well, old 😅 if it’s a couple of millimeters/centimeters just try to mount it
no need for trans fluid to add after pulling axle?
Great vid do you do anything about cleaning egr? for petrol engine. thanks
Thank you! I did clean an egr in my intake cleaning video (th-cam.com/video/9nsHfcHhgNE/w-d-xo.html). I typically just use brake cleaner after scraping out most of the build up by hand.
Can I tighten those bolts with the Impact without torquing them to spec ? I don’t have a torque wrench.
Depending on the impact, you can over torque the bolts where they'll either fatigue and fail down the road or just break immediately.
Is the C30 on the video automatic or manual? I heard that in an automatic transmission, oil shouldnt leak out.
I know im late, but he drives a manual. In the cabin filter vid, you can see the clutchpedal
No oil leaks from my automatic 09 C30
@@edbrandt8972 Yes sir, i performed this job on my auto c30 as well and no oil leaked either.
My ball joint separator has a 50mm opening, seemingly to small for the lower control arm... anyone have any advice?
MM of the ball joint seperator mouth?
Thank..
No problem!
Any focus drive shaft will work, as long as it belongs on the right gearbox e.g a 1.6 wont use an st driveshaft but a t5 will.
I'm in Canada, our Focus is different than compared to the European version.
it's exactly what i needed, i'm going to do this on my S40 this weekend if the weather permits :D. I have 2 questions:
1 the car in the video, is it with manual or automatic transmission?
2 is there an oil leak once you remove the old axle from the tranny? does it need to be topped up after axle replacement?
I’m trying to figure this out as well, I have an m66 car and I need to buy the special tool to remove the fill plug so I can top it off, don’t really want to drive the car until I top it off
Thanks man! About to do this to grandmas car haha
Happy to help :)
could you please share a catalog where I can find matching parts by VIN number of my Volvo V50 1.6d 2012? Thanks
2:45 Can you get that ball joint disconnected without that separator? Planning on doing this with minimal specialized tools
You could use a tuning/pickle fork, but you'll most likely damage the rubber boot and then you'll need a new ball joint. The tool isn't just specific to Volvo, you can use it on other vehicles too.
@@4DIYers gotcha, thanks for the reply. I rented a separator from an auto parts store. Wish me luck
How can I determine that the vibration is coming from the axle and not just out of balance tires?
Try swapping your wheels from front to back.
Amazing video!
Where did you get the torque specs for each bolt?
Thanks for the info!
Thank you :) Just a little searching online and I had a friend reference the specs with VIDA too.
@@4DIYers sooo.... I have to get the VIDA too!
Could you ask your friend where did he get it?
Thanks!
Kind regards.
I have replaced my front left wheel bearing twice now because of a humming noise. The noise has not gone yet, so I am wondering if it is the axle and if that axle has a bearing that needs to be replaced as well. Everytime I turn right I hear the noise even more! My mechanic has said it could be the gearbox. while driving the car put it in neutral and still hear the noise. So I'm thinking it's not the gearbox. Please Help!
My car is a c30 2.0d
Nice Video - So you feel it ok to re-use the axle bolt I guess.
Thank you. Volvo does recommend replacing it, but I did inspect it and it wasn't stretched.
Thank you 🎉
You’re welcome!
Hi, I did this and had some trans oil come out, where can i fill it back up
I drive a 2010 s40 2.4i 5sp
There should be a plug on the side of the transmission, you'll most likely need a suction pump. Or you maybe able to have a hose going from the top with a funnel.
So quick question. Does the gear oil need to be topped up after pulling the driveshaft out??
If you don’t let it sit too long, then no.
@@4DIYers Sweet. Thanks for reply.
You’re welcome!
Did you do an alignment after?
i do not think you can do alignment you only replace parts when needed
No need for an alignment.
Did your car make horrible noise when the axle was broken and when tried to drive it back/forth?
I never let it get that far, but yes it can cause that.
Where did u place the jackstand?
Under the subframe.
Hi...Great Video. Did you Spray Those 2 10mm Bolts with Kroil to loosen up those Rusty bolts?? Or not needed? Let me know..i already replaced Drivers side..that was a pain in the ass lol. Doing Passenger side..a lot easier..Rsvp Asap..thanks
Thank you! You can use penetrating oil depending on the severity. I rarely ever use it unless it's really bad.
@@4DIYers thanks..
No problem!
@@4DIYers *Question my 2008 C30 Turbo 2.5 P1 Automatic..Hub on my drivers side is beginning to make noise...Can you tell me a Good after market set..Driver and Passenger..I was thinking TRQs..pls give me your feed back on this subject..Cheers..also what would be the labor involved to do this?..like 2 hours per Hub?..does the knuckle have to be removed to take out Hub and replace..or can it be down with Knuckle left in place?..your thoughts..my C30 has 107 k miles..Your the Best I have seen on TH-cam
Does this work for drivers side? I don’t see why it wouldn’t
Yes it should be very similar, the driver's axle is shorter though.
What size ball joint separator did you use? About to do both of mine next weekend
@@FreshToDeath411 advance auto has one that fits for $25 none of the local shops out here rent them
Nice..**Automatic should not leak oil when CV is removed...Extra..Spray Rubber Boots with Waterproof Silicone Spray..as an added measure to keep Rubber Boot Wet
why change axel? for fun or?
Did you watch the video?
How many hours did the job take?
Can probably be done in a few hours at a leisurely pace. It’s hard to figure out an exact time when filming.
wow there's no way to rebuild or replace the cv axle boots? how much does an whole assembly cost? I've got two torn boots at the motor end and I'm trying not to spend too much money.
When I did this video, no. Hopefully things may have changed. You might be able to find boots which would fit and aftermarket axles are available but beware of the quality. From the dealer this was $700 CDN.
It’s so frustrating the parts prices Volvo charges.
I found out about the tear about 7 months ago I am not just getting to replacing it now. Im amazed its still going on that worn joint. There are clicks but not as much you would think
Huh. I had no idea how easy this actually looks.
Can't you just remove the strut? Seems easier than disconnecting the lower ball joint
I successfully did this job last June but did not use a Volvo axle. Here it is 10 months later and the axle boot sheared away.
FOLLOW 4DIYers recommendation and buy the Volvo part!
What a hassle...
Isnt it spost to be axle not adrive shaft change
unbalanced drive shafts on a brand new drive shaft seems silly but apparently it is a big problem with this car.
Kind of hard to believe it would be a problem now, I certainly didn't want to take a chance. Especially since I like to enjoy the T5.
@@4DIYers its def a issue
I am lurking the web looking for anyone that has gotten that center support bearing off the halfshaft.
Has anyone ever had the retaining clamp come off?! Axle and boots look fine but the support/clamp is gone!
How in the World did you Torque that 10 mm Clamp??? No space in there for Torque Wrench...Did you guess..or do you have a technique
Most of the stuff I do by feel but I include the specs for anyone wanting them, especially if they're new to wrenching. A crowfoot can be used with a torque, just make sure it's perpendicular to the head as you don't need to have any adjustment calculation.
@@4DIYers how long did each side take you?
Adequate help
You didn't show how to remove the axle from the gearbox 🙂
I did, it just pulls out.
@@4DIYers after 10 months i have decided to replace the shaft. Now i have a leak. Have to look into it 🙂. Thanks for your help.
U did the passenger side..that is much easier than Driver's side...
Stupid CV Axles..are Made to Break!! Just another way Volvo Screws it's Customers..they could produce a Strong Boot!! Boot Rips..but still will work for thousands of miles..if you can deal with the sound!!
Why you replace it?
The boot was ripped for an extended period of time, therefore the joint most likely is contaminated and that may have shortened the lifespan. I wasn't able to find a rebuild kit so this was the only route for a replacement.