I’m so glad I found this dude on TH-cam. Your videos are clear, thorough and well done. It’s just like sitting right in the classroom. No questions from me. Hahaha and a big thumbs up ✌️
Ah, memories lol. Very first clutch job I did as a lad, I wiped down the plates with oil, did not soak them. Guess who had to drain the oil and do the job all over again? hee hee. Sigh, live and learn!
I've just twigged why I'm enjoying this series so much - despite having never even sat on a Harley - let alone worked on one - it's the fact that there's no drama - no slagging off other channels - simply really well explained and helpful spannering and advice - superb camera shots, commentary and editing - 100% spot on guys - I am eagerly awaiting the next instalment - thank you both as always for sharing! x
Thank you Mike, no place in life for drama or hate, plenty of people do far too much of that, we're just getting on with our project and our lives.. we aren't here long enough to make issues aye.. Glad you're enjoying the series too mate, take care and have a great weekend.. D&Pxx
Top job! I like the way you explain the job so logically- very easy for people to follow. That little tidbit about the primary drive sprocket was a bit of icing.
When ever I adjust any chain I rotate the sprockets all the way around, because once I adjusted a drive chain on an old Sporty and when the tight spot came around it sheared all the rear sprocket rivets and there it was going 90 miles an hour sitting still. Be easy with the jugs off
Clear, well lit photography, & from all the relevant 'hands-on' angles for clarity - eg. '& this is what you should see.' (Big fan of hunting down any tight spots on chain runs before setting them, a 'twangy' Triplex will just eat bearings.) Going for that extra 8 inches eh? - Ye gods - I'm now seeing 12 inch risers & Jota bars! - "Nurse, the screens, quick!" : )xx
I do enjoy the way you make and film your videos, but I saw a few things that were off. You are indeed upgrading the clutch with an extra plate kit, and getting rid of the OEM spring plate, thus not an OEM clutch. Since you're doing that and increasing the displacement you usually want to get a stronger clutch spring. As for the clutch adjustment, the manual states 1/4 turn off not 1/2, but 1/2 is recommended for upgraded clutches with a stiffer spring. Finally the engine sprocket size on 1200s and 883s were the same from 86-03, but they had different drive gearing. The smaller gearing for the engine sprocket is only relevant on 04+ models and can easily be mitigated with a larger or smaller drive pulley/sprocket. I'm probably wrong about something in there myself with all the different sportster variants tho haha. Interested to see how your build goes 👍.
I absolutely blew my sporty clutch up. The spring plate rivets mangled all the teeth the clutch plates engage with. I spent a couple of hours filing them smooth again so I could fit the new energy one clutch plates. Nice tip with the 1/2" wrench. I always pick something new up on your vids.
Sorry to hear that mate, was it high mileage or a tuned engine? They don't usually break under normal use, usually if they're abused at higher mileage or making more power than standard, either way, glad you fixed it, thanks for sharing.
@@Moonfleet41 I do enjoy taking care and repairing things so the new clutch wasn't a big deal. My sporty is a 09 1200 fuel injected with only the SE pro tuner and 20k miles. I did put a K&N air filter in the stock box and V&H short shots on it. TBH, I was ripping around on it pretty hard for a while. lol Thanks for asking about it Delboy! Greetings from California.
What a nice and easy clutch change. I just finished a clutch on and 1987 GL1200A with the engine installed. Royal PITA, but certainly much easier than engine removal/twist. Love you channel!
Take a moment to read the comments people and notice how Del genuinely replies to so many comments, this must take so much time. Loads of respect you you Del. I feel like your hitting a bit of a milestone with this project. Content is informative, feels one to one. And also you seem as exited about this project as we are. Looking forward to that notification I get that says “ Delboy’s gotta new video”
Thank you for your kind words Alex, we do indeed to try reply to everyone, we feel it's polite and the right thing to do when people invest their time and engagement in our content!
It's not a fixed critical measurement, and the "seat" isn't a fixed hard base. on big twin clutches like Dyna and Softails, you go 1/2 to 3/4 turn, and in hot weather, if you ride brisk, you can find 1/4 turn on a sporty a bit tight and they can bind up once they expand. Then once they get hot they can drag and shift heavy ! i go half a turn and never have an issue.!
Hello, thank you for wonderful video.I have a Sportster 1998 and the gear transmission is not fluid when i shift to a gear to other. In particulary the second to third gear is scrape. The first gear gear scratch too. All the gears worsen when the motor is hot, and I can hear a big "clank" when i shift to one gear to other. The transmission oil is new and is the HD Formula, the clutch have right setting, but I don't know how much the clutch is old ( my bike have 80.000km but I buy it second hand). I love my bike and I would the better behaviour for it. Could you tell me where I can try to check and improve transmission gear behaviour? I have a clutch problem or a box gear problem? Or a shifter pawl adjust problem? Thank you very much from Italy Rispondi
No worry about them cover bolts coming out again anytime soon with that much thread lock on them. Any reason why you thread lock them bolts with so much thread lock?
The clutch plate with the rivets (spring plate) will grenade eventually and chew up your clutch basket and get in your primary. Especially under more power. I would definitely take that out. It happened on my 2008. It was stock minus a stage 1 kit and tune had approximately 23k miles.
@@Moonfleet41 great, yeah I noticed it hanging in a later video. It got all sorted. I sold the bike, I wish I hadn't I miss that sporty but that's a different story.
Lots of helpful tips in this one, and enjoyed the longer format. Never realized the gearing was different between 883 & 1200. I just figured people wanted more displacement. My guess of a flat tracker build might be wrong if you're going for longer bars. Guess we'll have to wait & see!
Find this stuff super interesting. Maybe I’ll own a Harley one day, maybe not but always pick up a few things here and there and after all, lots of these concepts do apply in some form or another even if the designs are slightly different. Now I’ve just got to get back to my own project. Feels like I have a million pieces of plastic to put back on her!!
Thanks so much for those kind words of encouragement Sir, it's great to hear you're enjoying it, I think anything constructive is watchable as long as it's clear and easy to follow, good luck with your project, hope it goes well, remember to enjoy the journey not just the end result!
It looks like you put the spring plate (grenade plate) back in. These fall apart at about 30000 miles and you have bits of brass rivets and spring steel floating all through the gearbox. The mod is to replace it with all frictions and steels, or to use the 'judder spring' set up from the XR1200. Also Harley used a normal ball bearing for the thrust bearing, not a proper thrust bearing. Its a $15 dollar bearing to replace with 7200B which is an angular thrust bearing. These are really only the two shitty cheap stupid things on a sporty (well, apart from the shocks) and well worth doing.I did it in my 2005 and now in the 1995. Also, I really enjoy your videos. Thanks!
I certainly didn't refit the spring plate mate.. added two extra steels and an extra fiber, made the plate into an ornament which is all they're good for aye!! Much of this bike is like brand new internally, 14k miles and still has cross hatching in the bores, cams look less than a year old, and it now has and S&S 1200 kit ready and running..! Thanks for watching mate. !
@@Moonfleet41 hey, that’s great! I figured you would know that, just didn’t see it! Sorry if I sounded a smartarse, didn’t mean to.great videos, thanks again!!
@@MrBradfordchild No worries buddy, I always appreciate the nufge, there are always things we don't know and it's wonderful to benefit from other people's experience and knowledge... I've actually made the plate in to a cool steam punk feature on my Goldwing Rat Bike!... so it's still gone to good use lol Thanks again for your support, Del
Hi Delboy, great instructional as always. Im getting a 1200 up and going after sitting awhile, pretty dry primary. Has fluids and now running on the stand. Will the plates be bound up? As in when put in gear, pull clutch in, i get no free wheel. Do i need to strip it out and soak them? Cheers again from New Zealand.
Just a thought: Why not use the heating and dunking in oil technique for bluing/rust protection on your existing bolts (or even a bottle of cold bluing solution), and save the money budgeted for new bolts for something else? At a twelve Newton/meter torque spec, I don't think you need to worry about compromising the integrity of the bolts with the torch during heating. The darkened bolt against the aluminum primary/clutch housing would be a nice look. A little effort in cleaning the old hardware and sprucing it up could equal big savings that could be applied elsewhere on the bike.
Great tip about the sprocket sise diffrence in 883 vs 1200. Mine started as a 96 mod 883 Hugger and has screaming eagle 1200 kit on it now. Love how easy these bikes are to work on. So simple and in a way crude.
Hi Andy, it's pretty easy mate, just nuts and bolts and an uncomplicated bike... even today's modern Harleys haven't changed much! Good luck with yours, bet you're looking forward to getting out on the road, take care both, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 it was on the road last week , but the place I had my wheels refurbished , didn't clean the rims so the tyres wouldn't seal , they used black silicone , and not tyre bead , which I had to have done again , I,am getting compensation from the company , so , but we are hopefully touring around Scotland on the NC500.
Another small correction: HD Service Manual states for adjusting the clutch mechanism "turn the screw counter-clockwise until is seated then turn a 1/4 turn clockwise", not 1/2 turn. These things can be very confusing specialy for newcomers.
It's not that critical mate, the difference in adjusted depth between 1/4 and 1/2 a turn would be measured in thou... it's purely to give expansion space for heat, so depending on where you live (hot or cold climate) and what you put your clutch through (top gear cruising or heavy commuting) depends on what adjustment is best.. the manual does suggest a 1/4 turn, but more is required if you're gonna get it really hot.. On the Big Twin adjustment, it's actually recomended as 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn for the same reason.
Amsoil primary in there. I just use the regular 20-50 amsoil but was thinking about changing it to the primary when I change my clutch. Can you feel a difference in both oils??
Thank you so much by the way, so many things I needed to know like why my primary cover wouldn't fit back on? And how much slack to leave in the chain! Now if I can just figure out whether I need to change the plates?
Very Good on the clutch job, you mentioned the smaller sprocket on the 883. I was wondering what the tooth count is on the other side? I assume this is belt driven on the final drive. I own a 1200 and had a little too much get up and go, and wanted to reduce the rpm's at highway speeds.
Great video again Del. Love your explanations about why you do certain things. Just wondering why you didn’t use grease on the primary gasket to stop it sticking or ripping when you need to open the primary again.
Hey Delboy, great instructional as always. Im getting a bike up and going that sat for a while with dry primary. I now have fluids in it. Bike is running on the stand. Pulling in the clutch, in gear, wheel still has resistance. How do i free it up, do i need to pull out the plates and oil them up again?
That would possibly be a last resort for sure, clean them off as they make be dragging on congealed oil... but first at least just run the motor while pumping the clutch in and out slowly to try and flush the new oil in between the plates, and of course, go ride it ! it may take a few miles, but some regular ordinary use could just clear it all off and get the mback to normal.. Bikes love to be used far more then laid up ! Good luck with it.
What’s the better gear to leave the motorcycle to do this type of service? I’ve tried to use a compressor clutch tool that I bought from Amazon but the pressure wasn’t enough to get the rings loose to access the plates.
Could do with a sight glass for the oil level but the clutch cable adjustment is similar to the bandit 600 and the SV650 I had, save the mess behind the sprocket cover 😂 I had an inclination on the gearbox/final drive and bigger top end Del but nice to hear the clarification as I have never owned a Harley but who knows one day eh. Hopefully that compo comes through soon. All the best Del and Pen x
Thanks for introducing me to the un-Japanese world of engine building. Very different and yet somehow fascinating. I really like your patience. Zen or the art of Harley maintenance ;-) Cheers from Nürnberg/Germany, Günter
You know Del I’m finally starting to get it. After nearly 30 years of rising jap… I think I understand the fascination with the American Iron icon. Might be my next move methinks… thanks mate for always inspiring!
I hear some tweety noise (like there is a little bird in it) from the clutch adjuster when engine runs at idle. What can be the problem. With kind regards
Great to see you back doing the kind of videos I love. The odd section with you explaining things and the reason for doing so really makes all the difference. 1st class well done. By the way hope the health's good and your looking after yourself. 👍
I went to change my primary gasket and ended up blowing the lobes off of the clutch basket because I got ahead of myself with the compression from the last video
Clearly you should have noted that soaking the friction plates should only be done if you have a wet clutch. While that may be so obvious as to be intuitive, there will be someone who does it with a dry clutch.
Another question if possible. Do you install a OEM new clutch or a speciale clutch, like the Barnett extra plate? I read that the OEM clutch is "dangerous" because the intermediate disc , with function of "soft start" ( excuse me my english) is very frail because is two metal diss is join with bronze rivet. Thanks a lot, Stefano
Hi Stefano, sorry to hear about your problem... your suggestion of the spring plate in the centre of the clutch is definitely a possible problem. As you say, the rivets can break and lead to difficult and nosiy changes, at best, and at worst, the plate can break up completely and wreck the entire clutch... so for first inspection I would remove the primary cover, strip the clutch out and replace the spring plate with 2 extra steel plates and 1 extra fibre plate... whilst your primary cover is off, you can look in behind the clutch and inspect the gears for any damage and also with the rear wheel off the ground, you can change through the gears as you turn the wheel and inspect the internal shifter mechanism to make sure it's working ok! But it's most likely to be clutch related... And Barnett clutch plates are good quality and will work just fine!
@@Moonfleet41 however I read that spring plate failure will be diagnosed by a neutral difficult to find . I find the neutral very well 🤔. And with first gear on and clutch pulled, the bike don't drag. However this Monday I open the primary cover and clutch for inspect the spring plate. Thank you again 🙏🏻
The clutch spring tool has paid for itself already. I'm curious to see which bars you have gone for! I see the new clutch cable is lined and much better quality than the one removed. Brilliant tips on every part of the build and excellent picture and sound quality. The old girl is coming along nicely. Greetings from a very snowy Sweden! 🇸🇪🇬🇧🥶👌🏻
Thanks you Paul, it was practically impossible tio get an age specific clutch cable without importing one from the USA, I had this in the cupboard from a 2010 bike, the ends are the same and it's longer which i will need it to be later. using what i had.. Hope the snow clears for you soon and you can get out on the bike. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 I know the feeling about parts availability Del. Been waiting weeks for some new bits for the street bob which will hopefully be here by the time the snow clears. Was out on the bike at the weekend but not much fun in almost sub zero temps. Hope you guys are having it better. 🥶👋🏻
@@clark7169 Yes better here mate.. temps warming all the time and the rain is mostly holding off now.. don't worry we'll all be riding in the sunshine soon aye..!
Excellent video Del & Penny. Job well done mate, you are starting to make me start looking for a Sportster to play with LOL. Penny and you have a great week. Cheers
Go for it mate, they're a fabulous bike to make a project from and as there are so many of them about, they're quite affordable as a donor! Have a great week there, all the best from us both.
stig fasteners, Darlington - went through my train with their kit, still look new, and sent the bolts to match up where I needed to - all good quality SS stuff. Looking forward to seeing the engine build up 😉
Hey man i got a 92 Harley sportser xlh 1200 that has a really slow crank wont turn on just really slow crank .. anyways is there any way a faulty or stuck clutch could be the problem ? I took the primary off to replace the starter because i tough that was the problem but looking into it i fill like my clutch wont let the engine crank properly idk of thats a thing if you can give me any feedback back thanks 🙏
What a pleasure it is to watch a true professional at work, actually two in this case....Del on the wrenches and Penny on the camera. Thank you both for making this series so enjoyable. Best wishes to you !
Excellent good job. Interesting to watch, I put a vid up last night of doing the clutch on my wife’s custom army bike. Whilst you’d made it look easy it still seems Harley have over complicated the job compared to most. I’ll say it again… interesting! Cheers
Hey Del, now that I think of it I really did not want to waste your time asking about the tooth count! If you would just remind me of this bikes year. Thanks
Mate, I always know more every video, I am doing things I never thought I do on my dyna. Also, received your zipped up Hoodie today Great material and very warm... Best to Penny, pls ! Rich & Cheryl
Thanks Rich & Cheryl, glad you enjoyed it, and also that it's useful, Glad you also enjoyed the hoodie, we're quite pleased with the quality and thank you so much for the support... have a great week both, al the very best from us both, D&Px
Did you use the awful riveted spring plate in the centre of the clutch plate assembly? I'm about to get rid of mine as I've seen too many horror stories of the rivets failing and damaging the clutch or worse.
I think from memory if dealt with at least four of those over the years, one went to far south it destroyed the clutch basket as well.. they're an absolute liability, so NO, it's safely removed and replaced with and extra two steels and one extra fiber !
Ive got two diff torque wrenches and i feel like If i gave these hd bolts even more then 50lbs the head of the hd bolts will snap off and trust me i snap bolts a lot and thats why i have a couple torque wrenches but really 90lbs of torque? Just seems like so much for this case!! Lmk
Still here homemade tools I love it made a stop block for primary myself had a paddle off a machine I worked on at work made of poly cut my own and 5 more for friends
I’m so glad I found this dude on TH-cam. Your videos are clear, thorough and well done. It’s just like sitting right in the classroom. No questions from me. Hahaha and a big thumbs up ✌️
Ah, memories lol. Very first clutch job I did as a lad, I wiped down the plates with oil, did not soak them. Guess who had to drain the oil and do the job all over again? hee hee. Sigh, live and learn!
Ha ha, oh well, the hardest lessons stick the best aye. !
My first port of call before attempting any job is this page! Great videos, great content!
Awesome! Thank you buddy !
Pure old school! Love those "no oil" memo stickers, almost no power tools and no sand blasting.
Thanks mate.. glad you approve !
it's allways good to refer the manual - nice to hear that said out loud - these episodes goes sooooo fast! looking forward the next one
Thanks mate. Glad you like them!
Real old school tips with that open ended spanner as a measure.. love seeing old skool mechanics knowledge still alive.
Thanks mate, simple and effective aye.
I've just twigged why I'm enjoying this series so much - despite having never even sat on a Harley - let alone worked on one - it's the fact that there's no drama - no slagging off other channels - simply really well explained and helpful spannering and advice - superb camera shots, commentary and editing - 100% spot on guys - I am eagerly awaiting the next instalment - thank you both as always for sharing! x
Thank you Mike, no place in life for drama or hate, plenty of people do far too much of that, we're just getting on with our project and our lives.. we aren't here long enough to make issues aye.. Glad you're enjoying the series too mate, take care and have a great weekend.. D&Pxx
thanks from France!
Top job!
I like the way you explain the job so logically- very easy for people to follow.
That little tidbit about the primary drive sprocket was a bit of icing.
Thanks Nick, glad you enjoyed it mate.
As more you know, more you look for information. You are better than manual! Great job!
When ever I adjust any chain I rotate the sprockets all the way around, because once I adjusted a drive chain on an old Sporty and when the tight spot came around it sheared all the rear sprocket rivets and there it was going 90 miles an hour sitting still. Be easy with the jugs off
Clear, well lit photography, & from all the relevant 'hands-on' angles for clarity - eg. '& this is what you should see.'
(Big fan of hunting down any tight spots on chain runs before setting them, a 'twangy' Triplex will just eat bearings.)
Going for that extra 8 inches eh? - Ye gods - I'm now seeing 12 inch risers & Jota bars! - "Nurse, the screens, quick!" : )xx
Thought this was a cooking video- ‘ First marinate your clutch plates ‘
Wonderful, thank you!
Well i guess that's exactly what you're doing..lol!
I do enjoy the way you make and film your videos, but I saw a few things that were off. You are indeed upgrading the clutch with an extra plate kit, and getting rid of the OEM spring plate, thus not an OEM clutch. Since you're doing that and increasing the displacement you usually want to get a stronger clutch spring. As for the clutch adjustment, the manual states 1/4 turn off not 1/2, but 1/2 is recommended for upgraded clutches with a stiffer spring. Finally the engine sprocket size on 1200s and 883s were the same from 86-03, but they had different drive gearing. The smaller gearing for the engine sprocket is only relevant on 04+ models and can easily be mitigated with a larger or smaller drive pulley/sprocket. I'm probably wrong about something in there myself with all the different sportster variants tho haha. Interested to see how your build goes 👍.
I absolutely blew my sporty clutch up. The spring plate rivets mangled all the teeth the clutch plates engage with. I spent a couple of hours filing them smooth again so I could fit the new energy one clutch plates. Nice tip with the 1/2" wrench. I always pick something new up on your vids.
Sorry to hear that mate, was it high mileage or a tuned engine? They don't usually break under normal use, usually if they're abused at higher mileage or making more power than standard, either way, glad you fixed it, thanks for sharing.
@@Moonfleet41 I do enjoy taking care and repairing things so the new clutch wasn't a big deal. My sporty is a 09 1200 fuel injected with only the SE pro tuner and 20k miles. I did put a K&N air filter in the stock box and V&H short shots on it. TBH, I was ripping around on it pretty hard for a while. lol Thanks for asking about it Delboy! Greetings from California.
Bluenose-1956 ebay Seller Del for your Sportster bolts ;-) watching the Spoty being rebuilt ;-) top work ;-)
What a nice and easy clutch change. I just finished a clutch on and 1987 GL1200A with the engine installed. Royal PITA, but certainly much easier than engine removal/twist. Love you channel!
Good to hear from you mate and really appreciate your support, have a great weekend!
Take a moment to read the comments people and notice how Del genuinely replies to so many comments, this must take so much time. Loads of respect you you Del. I feel like your hitting a bit of a milestone with this project. Content is informative, feels one to one. And also you seem as exited about this project as we are. Looking forward to that notification I get that says “ Delboy’s gotta new video”
Thank you for your kind words Alex, we do indeed to try reply to everyone, we feel it's polite and the right thing to do when people invest their time and engagement in our content!
Best clutch replacement that I have seen yet! Thank you!😊
Great video as always. oh and now i know what a torch is. lol. never heard that. must be a Brit thing. I'm learning. :)
Glad you enjoyed it sir.. and yeah, two nations separated by a common language right..lol!
Great video Del. I learned something new, 1/2” spanner gauge. Editing spot on.
Thanks buddy, and glad it helped !
Nice to see a guy happy in his work.
Been loving these videos! According to my Sportster manual the clutch adjustment is 1/4 turn back clockwise after the screw seats.
It's not a fixed critical measurement, and the "seat" isn't a fixed hard base. on big twin clutches like Dyna and Softails, you go 1/2 to 3/4 turn, and in hot weather, if you ride brisk, you can find 1/4 turn on a sporty a bit tight and they can bind up once they expand. Then once they get hot they can drag and shift heavy ! i go half a turn and never have an issue.!
Hello, thank you for wonderful video.I have a Sportster 1998 and the gear transmission is not fluid when i shift to a gear to other. In particulary the second to third gear is scrape. The first gear gear scratch too. All the gears worsen when the motor is hot, and I can hear a big "clank" when i shift to one gear to other. The transmission oil is new and is the HD Formula, the clutch have right setting, but I don't know how much the clutch is old ( my bike have 80.000km but I buy it second hand). I love my bike and I would the better behaviour for it. Could you tell me where I can try to check and improve transmission gear behaviour? I have a clutch problem or a box gear problem? Or a shifter pawl adjust problem? Thank you very much from Italy
Rispondi
No worry about them cover bolts coming out again anytime soon with that much thread lock on them. Any reason why you thread lock them bolts with so much thread lock?
The clutch plate with the rivets (spring plate) will grenade eventually and chew up your clutch basket and get in your primary. Especially under more power. I would definitely take that out. It happened on my 2008. It was stock minus a stage 1 kit and tune had approximately 23k miles.
I did take it out Jessi, replaced with with 2 extra steels and an extra fibre... sorry to hear about your bike, hope you got it sorted.
@@Moonfleet41 great, yeah I noticed it hanging in a later video. It got all sorted. I sold the bike, I wish I hadn't I miss that sporty but that's a different story.
what about the gear shaft oil seal !
Lots of helpful tips in this one, and enjoyed the longer format. Never realized the gearing was different between 883 & 1200. I just figured people wanted more displacement. My guess of a flat tracker build might be wrong if you're going for longer bars. Guess we'll have to wait & see!
Longer? or wider?... but wither way, these tiny little hugger bars are going! And nothing's off the table at this early point...!!
Great job Del! Loads of valuable advice which is always welcome. Appreciated as always.
Hey Shaun. Glad you enjoyed it mate.. always good to hear form you.
Very nice! I enjoy these longer videos.
Thanks Tom. Glad you like them!
Find this stuff super interesting. Maybe I’ll own a Harley one day, maybe not but always pick up a few things here and there and after all, lots of these concepts do apply in some form or another even if the designs are slightly different. Now I’ve just got to get back to my own project. Feels like I have a million pieces of plastic to put back on her!!
Thanks so much for those kind words of encouragement Sir, it's great to hear you're enjoying it, I think anything constructive is watchable as long as it's clear and easy to follow, good luck with your project, hope it goes well, remember to enjoy the journey not just the end result!
Really good video, wish I had someone as patient as you when I was an apprentice 😂
Thanks Andy, I guess we always excel at what we love doing the most, and I do love to share information and knowledge if it can help others!
Text book tuition and production - well done both 👍
Thanks buddy.
Quality video, only engineers use the manual, because that’s the right way. Well impressed. 👌👌👌👌
It looks like you put the spring plate (grenade plate) back in. These fall apart at about 30000 miles and you have bits of brass rivets and spring steel floating all through the gearbox. The mod is to replace it with all frictions and steels, or to use the 'judder spring' set up from the XR1200. Also Harley used a normal ball bearing for the thrust bearing, not a proper thrust bearing. Its a $15 dollar bearing to replace with 7200B which is an angular thrust bearing. These are really only the two shitty cheap stupid things on a sporty (well, apart from the shocks) and well worth doing.I did it in my 2005 and now in the 1995. Also, I really enjoy your videos. Thanks!
I certainly didn't refit the spring plate mate.. added two extra steels and an extra fiber, made the plate into an ornament which is all they're good for aye!! Much of this bike is like brand new internally, 14k miles and still has cross hatching in the bores, cams look less than a year old, and it now has and S&S 1200 kit ready and running..! Thanks for watching mate. !
@@Moonfleet41 hey, that’s great! I figured you would know that, just didn’t see it! Sorry if I sounded a smartarse, didn’t mean to.great videos, thanks again!!
@@MrBradfordchild No worries buddy, I always appreciate the nufge, there are always things we don't know and it's wonderful to benefit from other people's experience and knowledge... I've actually made the plate in to a cool steam punk feature on my Goldwing Rat Bike!... so it's still gone to good use lol Thanks again for your support, Del
Good tips👍wish my Beemer was as easy to change the clutch😉
Hi Delboy, great instructional as always. Im getting a 1200 up and going after sitting awhile, pretty dry primary. Has fluids and now running on the stand. Will the plates be bound up? As in when put in gear, pull clutch in, i get no free wheel. Do i need to strip it out and soak them? Cheers again from New Zealand.
Just a thought: Why not use the heating and dunking in oil technique for bluing/rust protection on your existing bolts (or even a bottle of cold bluing solution), and save the money budgeted for new bolts for something else? At a twelve Newton/meter torque spec, I don't think you need to worry about compromising the integrity of the bolts with the torch during heating. The darkened bolt against the aluminum primary/clutch housing would be a nice look. A little effort in cleaning the old hardware and sprucing it up could equal big savings that could be applied elsewhere on the bike.
Kwel video !! Closeup and such!! Great point soaking the plates! Adjustment explained great!!
Thanks buddy 👍, appreciate your kind words!
Thank you for another Brilliant video as always, Phil
Great tip about the sprocket sise diffrence in 883 vs 1200. Mine started as a 96 mod 883 Hugger and has screaming eagle 1200 kit on it now. Love how easy these bikes are to work on. So simple and in a way crude.
Yeah i agree, simple and effective engineering, and built to last for ever..
you make everything look so easy , which it probably was. great results and a great video. working on our big scoot , should be finished this weekend
Hi Andy, it's pretty easy mate, just nuts and bolts and an uncomplicated bike... even today's modern Harleys haven't changed much! Good luck with yours, bet you're looking forward to getting out on the road, take care both, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 it was on the road last week , but the place I had my wheels refurbished , didn't clean the rims so the tyres wouldn't seal , they used black silicone , and not tyre bead , which I had to have done again , I,am getting compensation from the company , so , but we are hopefully touring around Scotland on the NC500.
Great video. Really nice job on the cards at the end
Thanks Richard. Glad you enjoyed it!
Another small correction: HD Service Manual states for adjusting the clutch mechanism "turn the screw counter-clockwise until is seated then turn a 1/4 turn clockwise", not 1/2 turn. These things can be very confusing specialy for newcomers.
It's not that critical mate, the difference in adjusted depth between 1/4 and 1/2 a turn would be measured in thou... it's purely to give expansion space for heat, so depending on where you live (hot or cold climate) and what you put your clutch through (top gear cruising or heavy commuting) depends on what adjustment is best.. the manual does suggest a 1/4 turn, but more is required if you're gonna get it really hot.. On the Big Twin adjustment, it's actually recomended as 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn for the same reason.
Thanks for sharing great tip about measuring tension of the primary chain with half inch spanner, cheers 👌👊
No problem 👍
Amsoil primary in there. I just use the regular 20-50 amsoil but was thinking about changing it to the primary when I change my clutch. Can you feel a difference in both oils??
Can you tell me the tightening torques in nm to screw the crankcase bolts? Thx
great answer for why you bought the smaller bike and are now adapting the larger top end
hi del would i be right in saying this has no compensator in the primary caseing?
Thank you so much by the way, so many things I needed to know like why my primary cover wouldn't fit back on? And how much slack to leave in the chain! Now if I can just figure out whether I need to change the plates?
Very Good on the clutch job, you mentioned the smaller sprocket on the 883. I was wondering what the tooth count is on the other side? I assume this is belt driven
on the final drive. I own a 1200 and had a little too much get up and go, and wanted to reduce the rpm's at highway speeds.
I bet that was rewarding, definitely needed 4 hands! Well done both of you 😀
Yes it was buddy, to be making progress !
Why not polish the primary cover since you did the cam cover?
Great video again Del. Love your explanations about why you do certain things. Just wondering why you didn’t use grease on the primary gasket to stop it sticking or ripping when you need to open the primary again.
I could have done, it works just as well, but the manual on these advises to install both side gaskets dry, no need for any sealant.
Very useful tips! Thank you!
Nice Del, like always 👏👏👏👏 But I believe that the sprocket that is diferent from the 883s to the 1200s is the secondary sprocket, on the Belt side...
Completed like a pro. Good info 👍
Thanks Mike 👍, simple assembly and great fun in a busy world!
Great video as always
Hey Delboy, great instructional as always. Im getting a bike up and going that sat for a while with dry primary. I now have fluids in it. Bike is running on the stand. Pulling in the clutch, in gear, wheel still has resistance. How do i free it up, do i need to pull out the plates and oil them up again?
That would possibly be a last resort for sure, clean them off as they make be dragging on congealed oil... but first at least just run the motor while pumping the clutch in and out slowly to try and flush the new oil in between the plates, and of course, go ride it ! it may take a few miles, but some regular ordinary use could just clear it all off and get the mback to normal.. Bikes love to be used far more then laid up ! Good luck with it.
What’s the better gear to leave the motorcycle to do this type of service? I’ve tried to use a compressor clutch tool that I bought from Amazon but the pressure wasn’t enough to get the rings loose to access the plates.
Thank for all information
Could do with a sight glass for the oil level but the clutch cable adjustment is similar to the bandit 600 and the SV650 I had, save the mess behind the sprocket cover 😂
I had an inclination on the gearbox/final drive and bigger top end Del but nice to hear the clarification as I have never owned a Harley but who knows one day eh.
Hopefully that compo comes through soon.
All the best Del and Pen x
Lovely video Del. Very informative mate. I'm not a Harley fan but I love the engineering side of it. 😎👍🏍
Thanks mate, glad you're enjoying it!
I believe it’s an upgrade over the old plates. The old plates had a thick plate with rivets in the middle of the pack.
Thanks for introducing me to the un-Japanese world of engine building. Very different and yet somehow fascinating. I really like your patience. Zen or the art of Harley maintenance ;-)
Cheers from Nürnberg/Germany, Günter
Thank you my friend. Glad you enjoyed it!
@@Moonfleet41 I do, like so many others. Happy for both of you that the channel is growing.
I know this is an old post but I believe it's the front belt drive pulley that's a different size
Really interesting video Del! Full of useful tips and tricks!
Glad you enjoyed it mate!
where's your inspirational quote ?
You know Del I’m finally starting to get it. After nearly 30 years of rising jap… I think I understand the fascination with the American Iron icon. Might be my next move methinks… thanks mate for always inspiring!
I hear some tweety noise (like there is a little bird in it) from the clutch adjuster when engine runs at idle. What can be the problem. With kind regards
1/2 inch deflection gauge combination spanner . Now There's a thing ! Peace and love to you both 👍🏻☮❤
What ever works aye buddy..! take care and have a great weekend aye.. D&Pxx
I like your idea of using a 1/2 wrench to set the chain
Can’t wait to see where you take this project bike, Del. As always, I learned a ton from you in this vid! 🏍👍🏍
Thanks Gary, good to hear you're enjoying this series... have a great week both and keep safe! D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 yessiree and you both as well! 😎
Great to see you back doing the kind of videos I love. The odd section with you explaining things and the reason for doing so really makes all the difference. 1st class well done.
By the way hope the health's good and your looking after yourself. 👍
Thank you for your kind words mate, and I'm feeling a lot better now, a slow steady recovery.
I went to change my primary gasket and ended up blowing the lobes off of the clutch basket because I got ahead of myself with the compression from the last video
Your literally making me want to buy a piece of shit bike to fix up haha. Love it and the asmr noises are great haha
Is there a special order to the rings at the 2:48 mark or are they all the same?
Check at 2:19, its the solid ring first, then the split spring ring on second.!
@@Moonfleet41 Perfect, thank you!
Clearly you should have noted that soaking the friction plates should only be done if you have a wet clutch. While that may be so obvious as to be intuitive, there will be someone who does it with a dry clutch.
Hi Del, regarding the casing screws, have you given a thought to maybe just re-plating them?
Possibly, but it will be sometime in the future as I have the full dry build to do first... it is an option for sure!
Another question if possible. Do you install a OEM new clutch or a speciale clutch, like the Barnett extra plate? I read that the OEM clutch is "dangerous" because the intermediate disc , with function of "soft start" ( excuse me my english) is very frail because is two metal diss is join with bronze rivet. Thanks a lot, Stefano
Hi Stefano, sorry to hear about your problem... your suggestion of the spring plate in the centre of the clutch is definitely a possible problem. As you say, the rivets can break and lead to difficult and nosiy changes, at best, and at worst, the plate can break up completely and wreck the entire clutch... so for first inspection I would remove the primary cover, strip the clutch out and replace the spring plate with 2 extra steel plates and 1 extra fibre plate... whilst your primary cover is off, you can look in behind the clutch and inspect the gears for any damage and also with the rear wheel off the ground, you can change through the gears as you turn the wheel and inspect the internal shifter mechanism to make sure it's working ok! But it's most likely to be clutch related... And Barnett clutch plates are good quality and will work just fine!
@@Moonfleet41thank you for your support, is very important for me 🙏🏻 I will open the primary cover and check the clutch! Thanks again
@@Moonfleet41 however I read that spring plate failure will be diagnosed by a neutral difficult to find . I find the neutral very well 🤔. And with first gear on and clutch pulled, the bike don't drag. However this Monday I open the primary cover and clutch for inspect the spring plate. Thank you again 🙏🏻
I love your videos. Thanks so much for the time you invest in creating such valuable content
The clutch spring tool has paid for itself already.
I'm curious to see which bars you have gone for! I see the new clutch cable is lined and much better quality than the one removed. Brilliant tips on every part of the build and excellent picture and sound quality. The old girl is coming along nicely. Greetings from a very snowy Sweden! 🇸🇪🇬🇧🥶👌🏻
Thanks you Paul, it was practically impossible tio get an age specific clutch cable without importing one from the USA, I had this in the cupboard from a 2010 bike, the ends are the same and it's longer which i will need it to be later. using what i had.. Hope the snow clears for you soon and you can get out on the bike. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 I know the feeling about parts availability Del. Been waiting weeks for some new bits for the street bob which will hopefully be here by the time the snow clears.
Was out on the bike at the weekend but not much fun in almost sub zero temps. Hope you guys are having it better. 🥶👋🏻
@@clark7169 Yes better here mate.. temps warming all the time and the rain is mostly holding off now.. don't worry we'll all be riding in the sunshine soon aye..!
Excellent video Del & Penny. Job well done mate, you are starting to make me start looking for a Sportster to play with LOL. Penny and you have a great week. Cheers
Go for it mate, they're a fabulous bike to make a project from and as there are so many of them about, they're quite affordable as a donor! Have a great week there, all the best from us both.
All HD chains should be adjusted this way... HD should ditch the automatic tensioner!
stig fasteners, Darlington - went through my train with their kit, still look new, and sent the bolts to match up where I needed to - all good quality SS stuff.
Looking forward to seeing the engine build up 😉
Good stuff, thanks for the tip mate..
É tão simples e tão funcional... Incrivel sistema de transmissão primária.
Why didn't you put the spring plate on?
Great job mate plenty of information as always, I have a lot of your vids to catch up on 😅 keep her shiny side up 👍
Thanks buddy 👍, good to hear from you.
Hey man i got a 92 Harley sportser xlh 1200 that has a really slow crank wont turn on just really slow crank .. anyways is there any way a faulty or stuck clutch could be the problem ? I took the primary off to replace the starter because i tough that was the problem but looking into it i fill like my clutch wont let the engine crank properly idk of thats a thing if you can give me any feedback back thanks 🙏
Have you checked the health of your battery?, that'd be my first thought if slow cranking!
Nice installation
Thanks buddy..
What a pleasure it is to watch a true professional at work, actually two in this case....Del on the wrenches and Penny on the camera. Thank you both for making this series so enjoyable. Best wishes to you !
Wow, thank you Rick for such kind words of encouragement, a lot goes in to it so we are really grateful when it's appreciated!
Excellent good job. Interesting to watch, I put a vid up last night of doing the clutch on my wife’s custom army bike. Whilst you’d made it look easy it still seems Harley have over complicated the job compared to most. I’ll say it again… interesting! Cheers
Thanks for watching mate, that's a cool bike, love a bit of olive drab and I hope she enjoys it!
@@Moonfleet41 Aye she loves it now!! Right after she bought a 3rd bike 😄 We’ve now got a lovely KE175 in the lounge!
Fantastic video Del, i love these type of vids
Thanks Dave, glad you're enjoying it mate!
Was there any particular reason for replacing the clutch cable? Maybe you recommend always replacing the clutch cable whenever you replace the clutch?
Did you skip the video and not see the horribly rusted adjuster screw in the middle of the cable?
@@Moonfleet41 lol - I guess I did. I was looking to see how the clutch plates go in, so I might not have sat down with my coffee yet. :)
Coming along nicely Del, hope you're both OK, all the best 👍
Thanks Geoff👍 we're both fine, always good to hear from you..
Hey Del, now that I think of it I really did not want to waste your time asking about the tooth count! If you would just remind me of this bikes year. Thanks
Mate, I always know more every video, I am doing things I never thought I do on my dyna. Also, received your zipped up Hoodie today Great material and very warm...
Best to Penny, pls !
Rich & Cheryl
Thanks Rich & Cheryl, glad you enjoyed it, and also that it's useful, Glad you also enjoyed the hoodie, we're quite pleased with the quality and thank you so much for the support... have a great week both, al the very best from us both, D&Px
Did you use the awful riveted spring plate in the centre of the clutch plate assembly? I'm about to get rid of mine as I've seen too many horror stories of the rivets failing and damaging the clutch or worse.
I think from memory if dealt with at least four of those over the years, one went to far south it destroyed the clutch basket as well.. they're an absolute liability, so NO, it's safely removed and replaced with and extra two steels and one extra fiber !
excellent video, thanks man!
Thanks you, Glad you liked it!
What a great video👍. I have been looking for a service manual for my 2021 Sport Glide but cant find one. Any ideas Del?
Thanks mate. Give Jersey HD a try online for the manual, they usually come up trumps, and VAT free too.!
@@Moonfleet41 Ordered👍
Ive got two diff torque wrenches and i feel like
If i gave these hd bolts even more then 50lbs the head of the hd bolts will snap off and trust me i snap bolts a lot and thats why i have a couple torque wrenches but really 90lbs of torque? Just seems like so much for this case!! Lmk
"but really 90lbs of torque? Just seems like so much for this case".
What bolt in this Video is 90ft lb ?
Still here homemade tools I love it made a stop block for primary myself had a paddle off a machine I worked on at work made of poly cut my own and 5 more for friends