Doesn't say much for the M8 (or the blockhead who worked on the bike previously). I've been riding Harleys for 60 years and have never once had to change/rebuild a clutch. Several busted derby bolts says to me that the last person in there was a clown. I've been removing and reinstalling derby covers long before I even knew what a torque wrench was and have never busted a bolt on any motorcycle I have ever owned. Sometimes they have fallen off since I was never religious about threadlocker use. Those old pans were rattle traps. Just a thought, but doesn't a full turn on the clutch hub adjustment seem a tad excessive to you? If it were my bike I'd just adjust the clutch properly and see if that corrected the problem. I'm no expert but those friction plates didn't look that bad to me. They are designed to slip (friction zone during low speed maneuvers).... I do agree with you. If you are going to replace worn OEM parts it's always best to go with something much better, like Barnett in this case. I usually sell a bike when it gets up around 50k miles so the chances of ever having to do a second clutch rebuild is pretty much zero.
I have 3 answers to that question lol 1)Cometic gaskets, yes. 2)a gasket that has only had a couple heat cycles on it, yes 3)On a customer bike (so not my own bike or a close friend) no
IMO, no matter what you put in there, it’s going to have to be replaced eventually. A stock Harley clutch can hold 150+hp. Maybe not forever, but it can do it lol. I typically replace them with Harley or drag specialties. It’s not that hard of a job to do to justify spending the extra cash on a Barnett or rekluse
Awesome!!!
Another great video Brandon, Thanks for filming it.
As always, thanks for watching my friend!
Doesn't say much for the M8 (or the blockhead who worked on the bike previously). I've been riding Harleys for 60 years and have never once had to change/rebuild a clutch. Several busted derby bolts says to me that the last person in there was a clown. I've been removing and reinstalling derby covers long before I even knew what a torque wrench was and have never busted a bolt on any motorcycle I have ever owned. Sometimes they have fallen off since I was never religious about threadlocker use. Those old pans were rattle traps.
Just a thought, but doesn't a full turn on the clutch hub adjustment seem a tad excessive to you? If it were my bike I'd just adjust the clutch properly and see if that corrected the problem. I'm no expert but those friction plates didn't look that bad to me. They are designed to slip (friction zone during low speed maneuvers).... I do agree with you. If you are going to replace worn OEM parts it's always best to go with something much better, like Barnett in this case. I usually sell a bike when it gets up around 50k miles so the chances of ever having to do a second clutch rebuild is pretty much zero.
Wherer is the Steel pressure plate that goes under the three 10 mm clutch bolts !?
2:15 that's how I verify the ladies
🤣🤣🤣
Have you ever reused the outer primary gasket?
I have 3 answers to that question lol
1)Cometic gaskets, yes.
2)a gasket that has only had a couple heat cycles on it, yes
3)On a customer bike (so not my own bike or a close friend) no
@@GilstrapGarage thanks amigo have great weekend you and fam .!
What’s your opinion on other clutch plates. Does brand matter?
IMO, no matter what you put in there, it’s going to have to be replaced eventually. A stock Harley clutch can hold 150+hp. Maybe not forever, but it can do it lol. I typically replace them with Harley or drag specialties. It’s not that hard of a job to do to justify spending the extra cash on a Barnett or rekluse
Nice Monte Carlo 0:48