Recently did all my panels, Took me about 40 minutes to strip a 1986 bonnet, faded factory paint cleaned back to bare metal here in Australia using CAM paint stripper and cling wrap. It fried it like you expected. Contains >60% weight Methylene Chloride.
Can't get the methylene chloride stripper in the U.S. anymore. Can't get real lacquer thinner, MEK, toluene or other chemicals in many states now, either. I do wonder how much we're damaging the environment now using the less effective, less-toxic (but still toxic)mandated substitutes; if you use more of these chemicals and take more time, wouldn't the effects be the same - or even worse? It's like the mandated "low water use toilets" from years ago, it was found a while later that they actually used *more* water than their predecessors as you had to flush them multiple times to clear the pan!
The older aircraft remover is night and day compared to the new formula. I used to use it to strip fully cured paint on panels and valve covers and it would take it down to the metal in minutes. The new stuff is massively disappointing (although less toxic, but why use it if it doesn't work now).
Yeah, you could watch it work as you put it on. Even the stuff in the spray can worked nearly instantly. One spray can probably would have taken care of that entire hood.
def blame that ONE loser who tried stripping paint in his NON VENTED bathroom and passed out, creating a lawsuit, when common sense could have done the job. Ruining it for the rest of us.
@@Brakzillaa common sense? What’s that never heard of those words in school or America. You do know now it’s about blaming someone else it’s never about accountability anymore
@@KWW0321, can I have the name of the product sir? I’ve been staying away from these type jobs. It’s very hard to do a quality job when the products don’t work anymore..
Just what I needed to see and perfect timing as I need to strip my wife's 73 Bronco to bare metal to do bodywork and paint. I just bought a Chinese copy of the Eastwood CONTOUR SCT - Surface Conditioning Tool from Amazon with a fiber disc instead of using paint stripper. Mahalo & Aloha!🤙
I was in aviation my career, and was around a lot of aircraft paint stripping. Believe me, that 'aircraft paint stripper' isn't what's really used to strip aircraft. The stuff they really use will burn you just from the fumes. And, after it sits a while, the paint is falling on the floor in sheets. So far, I've found nothing on the automotive market that works worth a flip on good paint..
Agreed I was in same career 30 years ago, the stripper would burn through gloves if you weren't quick enough. 5 minutes is all you would need and paint would fall off like old wall paper, couldn't tell you the name sorry
@@knowname7289 The same name brand that this guy used here, use to be good stuff, it is now junk. It 'use to contain' Methylene Chloride, but not any longer and is 'why' it is junk. The word has been out for quite some time... Phillip Hall
Thanks for this video! Would you be willing to go a bit deeper into dialing in your gun? I watched your older 101 video where you went over setting up your gun, but as a beginner, it's difficult to recognize when my PSI or fluid is too high or low. Examples of common defects resulting from improperly dialed settings would be really valuable.
I went through this with an old hood for my 30 A coupe hot rod project, last year. I didn't think about the change in ingredients. I just went about it the way I did years back when it was "good stuff". After using the whole can after a couple attempts and wonder wtf happened, haha, I went manually, too. It needed to be done because the whole hood was oxidized under the paint. I love your channel. It's given me the confidence to do the finish work on this long-term project.
I have a feeling the time and materials would pretty much even out or even cost more than that $89 corded Dewalt sander that's listed in the description. Good video on showing how to work smarter and not harder. 👍👊
Yea, but not having to smooth a panel from grinding out metal is priceless. I know what your gonna say, but, if you take ANY metal off with sanding, which your gonna do, its a wrap!
I'm glad you posted this. I used to use the kleen strip brand and it worked wonders as long as you covered it. Looks like it's only good for removing cheap spray paint now. You saved me some money.
Surprisingly that paint stripper supposed to get the job done faster but in the end just go back sanding with 80grt. Thank you for the video and we will just sand down too in our workshop in order not to waste time getting paint stripper.
I found the best stripper to be permatex paint and decal remover. They changed the formula but still not terrible. Also the permatex gasket remover works really well too!
If it’s lacquer based paint use OVEN CLEANER! The stuff works like full strength paint stripper in 20 minutes on a hot day. It blew my mind when I learned this trick but I swear it works. Get a bunch of cheap stuff from the dollar store and blast away.
You doing amazing work bud. I'm a painter myself with the difference that I'm working in general aviation environment. Latest videos shown how much different our departments are. I'm using paint stripper on daily basis so I can't really recommend scuffing up the paint as it's not always work the way we want it. It's all about the product and the application process.
Hey Brian , good video. I stripped my corvette with a razor blade. I heard about this but was amazed how well it worked. Once you get a good start it comes off quick. You still have to sand the sharp curves a little . Just vacuum up the chips . NO MESS
Yup, I had the same experience 2 years ago with that expensive garage! I followed the directions to a T. I also sanded my WHOLE '65 C10 inside and out down to bare metal. I'm glad it wasn't just me LOL
you just confirmed what I was thinking for a while,...these strippers dont work like they used to....also, thanks for doing a "shade tree" approach, more of us relate to that
Old timer told me to wear earplugs when spraying because it will find its way into the body. His co-worker got ear cancer as a workshop spray painter … he’s ok after treatments. I use full hoodie with balaclava painters net, goggles and earplugs and resp. It’s a bit of a uniform but that forces me to be as efficient as possible with my labour time.
Hey Brian, here in the UK I know of about 3 brands of paint stripper that you can buy at the moment that actually work. They all burn badly if you splash them onto your skin, so this is a mark that they might work as intended. There is a brand called Nitromors which used to be the best, it is now totally useless. It will not even strip household paint. Unfortunately, you can probably remember that the old paint strippers used to get straight down to bare metal in one application, the new ones that actually do still work need at least 2 applications on car paint finishes.
The paint stripper I used about 10 years ago on the boot lid of my fairlane was so fast you couldn't coat half the panel before the paint lifted. I forgot what brand it was, my dad had for a long time before I used it.
This was a great episode. You answered what I was thinking of wether to chemical strip vs sanding. Plus the rattle can 2 epoxy is how I’ll be doing my approach till I can get a decent compressor and my first spray gun. Thanks for your informative show
Brian, with all of those good chemicals now missing from the stripper (especially the stuff you get in California now), the stripper has a hard time with catalyzed and baked paints. Great video!
Nice video: Agree, I tried to strip an airplane nose cone that was painted black. I applied a paint stripper for 12 hrs (not aircraft stripped), it didn’t touch it. I’m returning it (Ez stripper). I’m gonna sand mine as well !
Some states passed regulations that changed the formulations of a lot of paints, paint strippers and solvent based products making them lower voc. I believe that's the reason why the strippers were not as effective.
I just used 80/180 Grid with a orbital Sander and I got very good results. Chemicals are worthless in removing old paint. I applied etching primer on the Hood and the surface is very smooth unlike the chemicals which removed the paint in bits and pieces. So useless. I strongly suggest Sanding vs using chemicals.
For you guys that havent stripped a car to bare metal before you can also you a rotary with a resin 40 grit disk on low speed. Keep is moving and dont press hard. Stripping wheels are fast options also. Strippers are still on the shelves because big box stores want your money and it cost these manufacturers almost nothing to make the stripper now since the chloride is out of it. I have a few theories on why it's still sold but I'll put my tin foil hat back in my pocket 😅😅 good luck on your projects
I've had great luck using regular furniture stripper. It crinkled the paint on my truck before my eyes. None of this 'wait 40 minute' bullshit. The thing I liked about it was that it didn't destroy the galvanizing from the sheet metal surface like mechanical paint removal does.
The Ultra version of that stripper actually does work. Although cost about $70 a gal, will work with 2K coatings. Fumes will burn eyes and lungs so use outside with protection
Chemical stripper can be good. Brand makes a big difference. I work in fleet repair. When you get a white Ford that paint is peeling, Pro Form aircraft stripper will get it to bare metal in 1-2 coats without scuffing the paint first. If I did not need to do body work I would then wet on wet paint it the same day. Harder to do that grinding it off. When I was at GM doing paint warranty work in the 90's, we would use 8" 80 grit on the polisher/grinder. You could just use the old style DA that can lock in grinder mode. Chemical on the lacquer, yes GM had lacquer in the 90's, was red. I stripped a Ford grey hood last month, clear was cracking and had 4 layers of paint. 3 were factory as the entire car had 3 layers on panels that had never been painted. I scuffed it with 80 and was about 3 coats. When it works it saves you time because you can go do something else as it wrinkles. I have not tried the plastic trick. I have seen several cars that have been painted more than once at the factory, sometimes it creates a big mess because you get a shiny layer when feathering.
I think the aviation stripper was too old. If you look at other videos in YT, you'll see that the stuff is yellowish, not brownish. The brown color might be an indication that the can was rusted in the inside and the stripper might have been compromised or weakened.
Hey! Do you think you'd be able to make a video specifically for the DIY people out there? The best bang for your buck equipment for people on a budget, and absolutely everything to get their own car painted? Paint gun (I know you have a ton of these vids), Air compressor, Air regulator, paint, etc etc. As well as a walkthrough using all the items? Myself and I'm sure many others would really appreciate something like this!
I just used a gallon of the new Aircraft stripper on a dodge hood and it worked great for me .Although it recommends covering it up I did not. I would use it again. It is messy!
How sad is it, that nowadays it's easier and less effort to grind all the paint off down to bare metal rather than using paint stripper to remove the paint. Crazy.
Thanks for the video, I’m convinced the new paint stripping chemicals are not worth the money. Going with a cheap harbor freight surface conditioning tool
Started with 40 grit on two different models of orbital sanders from Lowe’s - barely got the clear and base coat off, then tried rust oleum paint stripper from Walmart - let it sit for a day and that seemed to work but disappointed the pint barely covered 20% of the hood - at $35 a pop that’s pretty pricey - I’ll try the orbital sander next
The can of aircraft remover he had was very old. Rust on top of the can is visible in the video. Also aircraft remover is not brown when it comes out of the can it's a clear gel like substance. It needs heat and time to work. I have used it on hot sunny days outside and it doesn't dry out. I think if he had a new can and left it on for over an hour maybe 2 he would have had good results.
Brian when removing old paint and rust from that Tahoe roof. After taking it to bare metal should I used a rust converter. Like locite extend so that the rust would not come back. Under the new paint
I just used Aircraft stripper to strip a 67 Firebird Convertable. Worked just fine, admittedly not as well as the old formula. I used a brand new unopened gallon and saw paint peeling almost instantly. As I ran out I used the rest of an older can that I had opened for previous projects and noticed it didn't work as well. Perhaps this is helpful?
Interesting video, I just saw another TH-camr used paint stripper on his Porsche. It seem to work really well, you could actually see the paint is peeling right up 15 minutes after they remove the plastic cover. I wonder if it's just a matter of brand of paint that was used or if it's a matter of brand of stripper. His said aircraft paint stripper I believe. Anyway, I've got a project similar to what you just did coming up. I was going to use a stripper on it now I'm not sure I even want to try.
I quit using paint stripper years ago I prefer those nylon stripper brushes on a grinder they strip quick down to the metal and don't heat the metal up as much as sandpaper does.
Thanks a bunch for posting this video. I have a 70 Camaro that I was planning on using Aircraft stripper on but now I have second thoughts. Do you know when they changed the formula on the Aircraft stripper? I bought a can about five years ago and was going to use it. Could give it a try on a small area I guess. Thanks again.
Id love more tips on projects where you cant do all the work at once or you need to do it in pieces due to space or time constraints. What im gathering is for someone like me. I likely want to strip my body down to bare metal, use epoxy primer, do the body work and primer again each time to keep the parts sealed until paint, where i could just scuff and spray at that point? I dont have a shop to keep my project in during the week so it would be hit with elements until spray time
Can’t wait for the rest of series this weekend. I’m gearing up to repaint my engine bay. Has some light rust spots. Would you recommend strip it down to bare metal (I.e. wire brush or 80/180 grit sandpaper), expoy primer, use filler for any pitting, then sand it all down with 600 grit before prep & painting? It will be a rattle can job BTW. Thanks in advance!
Yes that will be fine for the job you would like to do. Make sure your engine bay is degreased very very well. The engine bay tends to be a greasy area so take the time to clean it very very well before working and painting. Good luck!
I used citristrip on a plastic bumper had to leave it for 24 hours it all came off even with clearcoat fairly new car, 2015 came off super easy with a pressure washer
The klean strip aircraft paint stripper always sucked. I've always used rust-oleum aircraft remover. It took the clear coat on my Alcoa wheels off in an hr. It did leave a few tiny spots that needed to be either reapplied or sanded but not as bad as in the video.
Hey Brian, another great informative video. Question, what is your opinion on painting one panel at a time? I'm looking at painting my car at home and wondered if painting one panel at a time will cause any colour differences or any other issues?
I've done this on my van removing removing different panels and painting them over different time periods. I had no problems with paint match with the new to new paint, but I use hightek base coats a clears, which is a very great quality paint.
I repainted a 1993 civic phoenix yellow (Y56) and painted it panel by panel over a few weeks. You should be ok as long as you put the same number of coats over every panel, use/mix the same paint, and spray in similar climate conditions (humidity, temp, etc).
Actually you need the direct sunlight to help speed up the chemical process.. I scraped the gel coat off my 13 ft Boston whaler outside in the sun and within 10 minutes it was starting to bubble up
I know for a fact the Jasco works well because I'm using it as we speak. Also, it clearly states not to mix with any other chemicals and shake before using
Pity modern paint strippers are no good, the downside of 80 sanding a panel is that you'll also remove all the factory galvanizing, if so treated, and expose the raw steel. A couple of coats of epoxy is good insurance against future corrosion but it doesn't have the galvanic corrosion protection of zinc.
Ive been trying to find the best method to remove paint from an old poly bumper. Would you recommend the aircraft stripper on poly or would it be too aggressive? Thanks in advance.
That aircraft stripper that you used at the beginning I used the same brand but mine was clear when I poured it out an it worked good I was thinking yours was old or you had a different level of stripper maybe that one was for plastic 🤔 just a thought.
that is surprising that the aircraft stripper didn't work that well. I used it on my 57 chevy firewall and the paint was coming off on the brush as I applied it. I never covered mine with plastic, I wonder if that it requires more contact with the air to work better??
Thanks for the video. It's disgusting that we can't seem to get good paint stripper anymore. I've been repainting stock steel wheels and needed the original grade stripper to get into the tight and highly irregular spots around the lugnut hole faces. The next time I use the inferior stripper ; I'm going to use an electric heat gun on the spots and I think I might be able to literally blister the paint off after the stripper cures for about an hour.
When I was trying to respray my roof of the civic I ran into this exact problem, ended up just getting the Eastwood sct tool and had it all off in a days work .
I was just telling my girlfriend how crazy the difference from old style to this new style stripper. She wants to know if you tried bologna? I legit think it may work better
A professional soda blaster would be best and easiest. If you can't find one you need to find a pro that works on fiberglass. We just fixed a vette that a guy had sandblasted ( they told him they would soda blast it) and they blew holes in the body and blew off all the gelcoat.
I have The Same Bad Experience with An old stripper can like that. When I boughted New Work like a Charm. Once it Take Air Inside Change Of Color And Lost strenght.
Painted a car today, 1F7 Toyota I believe the code is, got a lot of motteling so I took it outta the booth and pressure washed it off and re did it lol, any tips for that Bryan? I laid the first coat on medium wet around 24psi 1.2 tip sata 5000 (work provided gun) reduced it 1.1 with my blender 50/50 sprayed my second coat effect coat looked nice but still a little mottle, we use spies hecker
I used spies Hecker for most of my career and it’s a awesome paint line. I would try the effect coat/ drop with the base only and use the 50/50 only on a blend. I would also bump the pressure down to 18 psi when u do the effect coat. Make sure u have coverage first. With spies Hecker it’s usually 3 coats and a effect
@@juanmata2433 we are taught by Axalta at 1-1/2 cost more of needed but that’s are base where they want us to stay, for production which kind of sucks sometimes, dropping the pressure help with silvers ? I couldn’t get it to lay flat to save myself! It was rough
@@G1bson258 I get it. Time is money in every production shop but so is respraying. 1& 1/2 coat is in a perfect world. It’s not on every job that ur required to do the extra steps so don’t get discouraged.1F7 is a tough color. Dropping the pressure will help u get that uniformed color u would expect to get. Sometimes i would do a double effect coat if needed.
I really appreciate the garage work and seeing the results, especially if it doesn’t go as planned. We all can really learn from it.
Recently did all my panels, Took me about 40 minutes to strip a 1986 bonnet, faded factory paint cleaned back to bare metal here in Australia using CAM paint stripper and cling wrap. It fried it like you expected. Contains >60% weight Methylene Chloride.
Can't get the methylene chloride stripper in the U.S. anymore. Can't get real lacquer thinner, MEK, toluene or other chemicals in many states now, either. I do wonder how much we're damaging the environment now using the less effective, less-toxic (but still toxic)mandated substitutes; if you use more of these chemicals and take more time, wouldn't the effects be the same - or even worse? It's like the mandated "low water use toilets" from years ago, it was found a while later that they actually used *more* water than their predecessors as you had to flush them multiple times to clear the pan!
@@GBooth yes you can get it I bought a can just a few weeks ago.
The older aircraft remover is night and day compared to the new formula. I used to use it to strip fully cured paint on panels and valve covers and it would take it down to the metal in minutes. The new stuff is massively disappointing (although less toxic, but why use it if it doesn't work now).
Yeah, you could watch it work as you put it on. Even the stuff in the spray can worked nearly instantly. One spray can probably would have taken care of that entire hood.
def blame that ONE loser who tried stripping paint in his NON VENTED bathroom and passed out, creating a lawsuit, when common sense could have done the job. Ruining it for the rest of us.
They have an upgraded version that works much better but still not as good as the old stuff.
@@Brakzillaa common sense? What’s that never heard of those words in school or America. You do know now it’s about blaming someone else it’s never about accountability anymore
@@KWW0321, can I have the name of the product sir? I’ve been staying away from these type jobs. It’s very hard to do a quality job when the products don’t work anymore..
Just what I needed to see and perfect timing as I need to strip my wife's 73 Bronco to bare metal to do bodywork and paint. I just bought a Chinese copy of the Eastwood CONTOUR SCT - Surface Conditioning Tool from Amazon with a fiber disc instead of using paint stripper. Mahalo & Aloha!🤙
Have you used your paint removal tool yet ??? How was it
I was in aviation my career, and was around a lot of aircraft paint stripping. Believe me, that 'aircraft paint stripper' isn't what's really used to strip aircraft. The stuff they really use will burn you just from the fumes. And, after it sits a while, the paint is falling on the floor in sheets. So far, I've found nothing on the automotive market that works worth a flip on good paint..
What’s the good stuff called or from?
Agreed I was in same career 30 years ago, the stripper would burn through gloves if you weren't quick enough. 5 minutes is all you would need and paint would fall off like old wall paper, couldn't tell you the name sorry
@@knowname7289
The same name brand that this guy used here, use to be good stuff, it is now junk. It 'use to contain' Methylene Chloride, but not any longer and is 'why' it is junk. The word has been out for quite some time...
Phillip Hall
Name of your stripper.
@@nschwert
Thanks man! Found some
Thank you for this demonstration. Saves me and many others the time and money on chemical paint strippers.
Thanks for this video! Would you be willing to go a bit deeper into dialing in your gun? I watched your older 101 video where you went over setting up your gun, but as a beginner, it's difficult to recognize when my PSI or fluid is too high or low. Examples of common defects resulting from improperly dialed settings would be really valuable.
Great idea for a video !
I went through this with an old hood for my 30 A coupe hot rod project, last year. I didn't think about the change in ingredients. I just went about it the way I did years back when it was "good stuff". After using the whole can after a couple attempts and wonder wtf happened, haha, I went manually, too. It needed to be done because the whole hood was oxidized under the paint. I love your channel. It's given me the confidence to do the finish work on this long-term project.
I have a feeling the time and materials would pretty much even out or even cost more than that $89 corded Dewalt sander that's listed in the description. Good video on showing how to work smarter and not harder. 👍👊
Yea, but not having to smooth a panel from grinding out metal is priceless. I know what your gonna say, but, if you take ANY metal off with sanding, which your gonna do, its a wrap!
I'm glad you posted this. I used to use the kleen strip brand and it worked wonders as long as you covered it. Looks like it's only good for removing cheap spray paint now. You saved me some money.
Surprisingly that paint stripper supposed to get the job done faster but in the end just go back sanding with 80grt. Thank you for the video and we will just sand down too in our workshop in order not to waste time getting paint stripper.
I found the best stripper to be permatex paint and decal remover. They changed the formula but still not terrible. Also the permatex gasket remover works really well too!
If it’s lacquer based paint use OVEN CLEANER! The stuff works like full strength paint stripper in 20 minutes on a hot day. It blew my mind when I learned this trick but I swear it works. Get a bunch of cheap stuff from the dollar store and blast away.
You doing amazing work bud. I'm a painter myself with the difference that I'm working in general aviation environment. Latest videos shown how much different our departments are. I'm using paint stripper on daily basis so I can't really recommend scuffing up the paint as it's not always work the way we want it. It's all about the product and the application process.
@@nschwert, does the peroxide stripper work well?
Hey Brian , good video. I stripped my corvette with a razor blade. I heard about this but was amazed how well it worked. Once you get a good start it comes off quick. You still have to sand the sharp curves a little . Just vacuum up the chips . NO MESS
I removed most of the clear coat on my car the same way- with a fresh razor blade, only took a couple hours, and then hit the basecoat with a sander.
Yup, I had the same experience 2 years ago with that expensive garage! I followed the directions to a T. I also sanded my WHOLE '65 C10 inside and out down to bare metal. I'm glad it wasn't just me LOL
you just confirmed what I was thinking for a while,...these strippers dont work like they used to....also, thanks for doing a "shade tree" approach, more of us relate to that
Old timer told me to wear earplugs when spraying because it will find its way into the body. His co-worker got ear cancer as a workshop spray painter … he’s ok after treatments. I use full hoodie with balaclava painters net, goggles and earplugs and resp. It’s a bit of a uniform but that forces me to be as efficient as possible with my labour time.
Like to see the difference between trying to strip the paint vs sanding. Another good one!!
Nice video! Appreciate the fact that you tried several ways to strip it and that it didn’t work.
Hey Brian, here in the UK I know of about 3 brands of paint stripper that you can buy at the moment that actually work. They all burn badly if you splash them onto your skin, so this is a mark that they might work as intended. There is a brand called Nitromors which used to be the best, it is now totally useless. It will not even strip household paint. Unfortunately, you can probably remember that the old paint strippers used to get straight down to bare metal in one application, the new ones that actually do still work need at least 2 applications on car paint finishes.
The paint stripper I used about 10 years ago on the boot lid of my fairlane was so fast you couldn't coat half the panel before the paint lifted. I forgot what brand it was, my dad had for a long time before I used it.
This was a great episode. You answered what I was thinking of wether to chemical strip vs sanding. Plus the rattle can 2 epoxy is how I’ll be doing my approach till I can get a decent compressor and my first spray gun. Thanks for your informative show
I think sanding with a 80 gritt is the way to go after seeing this video thank you brian great video
Brian, with all of those good chemicals now missing from the stripper (especially the stuff you get in California now), the stripper has a hard time with catalyzed and baked paints. Great video!
Nice video: Agree, I tried to strip an airplane nose cone that was painted black. I applied a paint stripper for 12 hrs (not aircraft stripped), it didn’t touch it. I’m returning it (Ez stripper).
I’m gonna sand mine as well !
Some states passed regulations that changed the formulations of a lot of paints, paint strippers and solvent based products making them lower voc. I believe that's the reason why the strippers were not as effective.
Can you wet-sand with the random orbital sanders to keep the dust down & don't hafta wear a mask ?
I just used 80/180 Grid with a orbital Sander and I got very good results. Chemicals are worthless in removing old paint. I applied etching primer on the Hood and the surface is very smooth unlike the chemicals which removed the paint in bits and pieces. So useless. I strongly suggest Sanding vs using chemicals.
For you guys that havent stripped a car to bare metal before you can also you a rotary with a resin 40 grit disk on low speed. Keep is moving and dont press hard. Stripping wheels are fast options also. Strippers are still on the shelves because big box stores want your money and it cost these manufacturers almost nothing to make the stripper now since the chloride is out of it. I have a few theories on why it's still sold but I'll put my tin foil hat back in my pocket 😅😅 good luck on your projects
garden blown straight onto the neighbors car.
I hear that if the stripper isn't working well, you can throw a few dollar bills at it and it'll work much better. 👌👌
Hahaha 🤣 👍
I've had great luck using regular furniture stripper. It crinkled the paint on my truck before my eyes. None of this 'wait 40 minute' bullshit. The thing I liked about it was that it didn't destroy the galvanizing from the sheet metal surface like mechanical paint removal does.
The Ultra version of that stripper actually does work. Although cost about $70 a gal, will work with 2K coatings. Fumes will burn eyes and lungs so use outside with protection
Chemical stripper can be good. Brand makes a big difference. I work in fleet repair. When you get a white Ford that paint is peeling, Pro Form aircraft stripper will get it to bare metal in 1-2 coats without scuffing the paint first. If I did not need to do body work I would then wet on wet paint it the same day. Harder to do that grinding it off. When I was at GM doing paint warranty work in the 90's, we would use 8" 80 grit on the polisher/grinder. You could just use the old style DA that can lock in grinder mode. Chemical on the lacquer, yes GM had lacquer in the 90's, was red. I stripped a Ford grey hood last month, clear was cracking and had 4 layers of paint. 3 were factory as the entire car had 3 layers on panels that had never been painted. I scuffed it with 80 and was about 3 coats. When it works it saves you time because you can go do something else as it wrinkles. I have not tried the plastic trick. I have seen several cars that have been painted more than once at the factory, sometimes it creates a big mess because you get a shiny layer when feathering.
I think the aviation stripper was too old. If you look at other videos in YT, you'll see that the stuff is yellowish, not brownish. The brown color might be an indication that the can was rusted in the inside and the stripper might have been compromised or weakened.
Exactly, that stuff isn’t very good anymore anyways but it was definitely rusting the can which will decrease the strength of the stripper greatly.
Awesome video ! Thanks for the lesson on paint removal it was very enlightening.
brake fluid works quite well. (not so much brake cleaner, corrected)
Hey! Do you think you'd be able to make a video specifically for the DIY people out there? The best bang for your buck equipment for people on a budget, and absolutely everything to get their own car painted? Paint gun (I know you have a ton of these vids), Air compressor, Air regulator, paint, etc etc. As well as a walkthrough using all the items? Myself and I'm sure many others would really appreciate something like this!
I just used a gallon of the new Aircraft stripper on a dodge hood and it worked great for me .Although it recommends covering it up I did not. I would use it again. It is messy!
How sad is it, that nowadays it's easier and less effort to grind all the paint off down to bare metal rather than using paint stripper to remove the paint. Crazy.
Thanks for the video, I’m convinced the new paint stripping chemicals are not worth the money. Going with a cheap harbor freight surface conditioning tool
Always great tips on this channel.
Thanks 👍👍
chlorinated brake cleaner has the old school methylene chloride you are looking for
Does it strip paint ?
@@b00st_SS add some to the strippper instead of laq thinner
Started with 40 grit on two different models of orbital sanders from Lowe’s - barely got the clear and base coat off, then tried rust oleum paint stripper from Walmart - let it sit for a day and that seemed to work but disappointed the pint barely covered 20% of the hood - at $35 a pop that’s pretty pricey - I’ll try the orbital sander next
The can of aircraft remover he had was very old. Rust on top of the can is visible in the video. Also aircraft remover is not brown when it comes out of the can it's a clear gel like substance. It needs heat and time to work. I have used it on hot sunny days outside and it doesn't dry out. I think if he had a new can and left it on for over an hour maybe 2 he would have had good results.
Brian when removing old paint and rust from that Tahoe roof. After taking it to bare metal should I used a rust converter. Like locite extend so that the rust would not come back. Under the new paint
Not a bad idea but get it epoxied asap
Thanks for the educational vids brotha 👍🏼
I just used Aircraft stripper to strip a 67 Firebird Convertable. Worked just fine, admittedly not as well as the old formula. I used a brand new unopened gallon and saw paint peeling almost instantly. As I ran out I used the rest of an older can that I had opened for previous projects and noticed it didn't work as well. Perhaps this is helpful?
man I love this project......
Interesting video, I just saw another TH-camr used paint stripper on his Porsche. It seem to work really well, you could actually see the paint is peeling right up 15 minutes after they remove the plastic cover. I wonder if it's just a matter of brand of paint that was used or if it's a matter of brand of stripper. His said aircraft paint stripper I believe. Anyway, I've got a project similar to what you just did coming up. I was going to use a stripper on it now I'm not sure I even want to try.
What were you using at 9:06 in the video because that was not 80 grit?
I quit using paint stripper years ago I prefer those nylon stripper brushes on a grinder they strip quick down to the metal and don't heat the metal up as much as sandpaper does.
They do leave the metal looking nice
I bought some aircraft recently and was surprised that it didn't work as well as before i just gave up and just started sanding
How come the primer had to be sprayed @ 2" away from the hood ?
and not uniform in the directionals
I call b.s. . . . .but what do I know.
Loving these videos.
I like your chanel than gun man verry well explained thank you sir GodBless.
Thanks a bunch for posting this video. I have a 70 Camaro that I was planning on using Aircraft stripper on but now I have second thoughts. Do you know when they changed the formula on the Aircraft stripper? I bought a can about five years ago and was going to use it. Could give it a try on a small area I guess. Thanks again.
another great informative video; thank,s PJP
Id love more tips on projects where you cant do all the work at once or you need to do it in pieces due to space or time constraints. What im gathering is for someone like me. I likely want to strip my body down to bare metal, use epoxy primer, do the body work and primer again each time to keep the parts sealed until paint, where i could just scuff and spray at that point? I dont have a shop to keep my project in during the week so it would be hit with elements until spray time
Can’t wait for the rest of series this weekend. I’m gearing up to repaint my engine bay. Has some light rust spots. Would you recommend strip it down to bare metal (I.e. wire brush or 80/180 grit sandpaper), expoy primer, use filler for any pitting, then sand it all down with 600 grit before prep & painting? It will be a rattle can job BTW. Thanks in advance!
Yes that will be fine for the job you would like to do. Make sure your engine bay is degreased very very well. The engine bay tends to be a greasy area so take the time to clean it very very well before working and painting. Good luck!
@@novinnovations4026 thanks for the response and advice!
Great vid. What grit would you use to remove paint from a plastic bumper cover?
I used citristrip on a plastic bumper had to leave it for 24 hours it all came off even with clearcoat fairly new car, 2015 came off super easy with a pressure washer
I think that covering the applied paint striper it’s a big mistake, the vapors can not flow and the liquid will remain intact without working at all
The neighbours must love you
They do. Thank you. We are all good friends
The best paint strippers are Benco Products.
I worked at a paint store and that’s all we sold.
Benco 15, Benco 17 or Benco 12
I think you should have removed the clearcout layer first before applying the paint remover
The klean strip aircraft paint stripper always sucked. I've always used rust-oleum aircraft remover. It took the clear coat on my Alcoa wheels off in an hr. It did leave a few tiny spots that needed to be either reapplied or sanded but not as bad as in the video.
Any chance you can do a video on how you did the epoxy on you garage floor. Big box store products don't last and end up making a mess.
Hey Brian, another great informative video. Question, what is your opinion on painting one panel at a time? I'm looking at painting my car at home and wondered if painting one panel at a time will cause any colour differences or any other issues?
I've done this on my van removing removing different panels and painting them over different time periods. I had no problems with paint match with the new to new paint, but I use hightek base coats a clears, which is a very great quality paint.
I repainted a 1993 civic phoenix yellow (Y56) and painted it panel by panel over a few weeks. You should be ok as long as you put the same number of coats over every panel, use/mix the same paint, and spray in similar climate conditions (humidity, temp, etc).
Actually you need the direct sunlight to help speed up the chemical process.. I scraped the gel coat off my 13 ft Boston whaler outside in the sun and within 10 minutes it was starting to bubble up
I wish you were my neighbor, cool vid
I know for a fact the Jasco works well because I'm using it as we speak. Also, it clearly states not to mix with any other chemicals and shake before using
Who knows. Shook both very well and no luck
Pity modern paint strippers are no good, the downside of 80 sanding a panel is that you'll also remove all the factory galvanizing, if so treated, and expose the raw steel.
A couple of coats of epoxy is good insurance against future corrosion but it doesn't have the galvanic corrosion protection of zinc.
Is that a Rotary sander or orbital sander ? Which one is better for removing old paint ?
Thank you for a great video we'll help you.
Cooper's Strip Club? Supposedly works well and is safe.
Can’t get it in USA.
@@bstevermer9293 Their website says they ship to the USA.
Ive been trying to find the best method to remove paint from an old poly bumper. Would you recommend the aircraft stripper on poly or would it be too aggressive? Thanks in advance.
That aircraft stripper that you used at the beginning I used the same brand but mine was clear when I poured it out an it worked good I was thinking yours was old or you had a different level of stripper maybe that one was for plastic 🤔 just a thought.
Brian, would you recommend the DeWalt Sander to strip an entire vehicle or the Eastwood contour SCT???
Every time after using epoxy primer you should put urethane primer too?
You will need to if you want to block it smooth
apply the remover and if it is a sunny day cover it with plastic and if not then apply heat with a heat gun oh heat lamp works very well
I feel like you guys watched MotionAuto’s latest video and made this for them. 😂
that is surprising that the aircraft stripper didn't work that well. I used it on my 57 chevy firewall and the paint was coming off on the brush as I applied it. I never covered mine with plastic, I wonder if that it requires more contact with the air to work better??
Thanks for the video. It's disgusting that we can't seem to get good paint stripper anymore. I've been repainting stock steel wheels and needed the original grade stripper to get into the tight and highly irregular spots around the lugnut hole faces. The next time I use the inferior stripper ; I'm going to use an electric heat gun on the spots and I think I might be able to literally blister the paint off after the stripper cures for about an hour.
When I was trying to respray my roof of the civic I ran into this exact problem, ended up just getting the Eastwood sct tool and had it all off in a days work .
Nice tool. Just a little slow
@@PaintSociety I used the black 40 grit roll worked well
Car with peeling, cracking or clearcoat gone, do I need to sand to metal and primer or prep and use sealer?
I was just telling my girlfriend how crazy the difference from old style to this new style stripper.
She wants to know if you tried bologna?
I legit think it may work better
The old school stuff would take off 2-3 layers.
And part of your skin. You know it was working lol
@@PaintSociety burn baby burn! ...a little water and it's all good! You just have to know how to use it.
It would also shave 2-3 years of your life. : D
@@MucaroBoricua what's 2 or 3yrs big deal just do it outside your fine that's why the good Lord made water and soap! Lol 😆
I tried the aircraft paint stripper also and found it really didn’t do anything…. So now I will have to sand the whole car
I use Easy Off oven cleaner on small parts.
How would you remove paint from fiberglass? Like a Corvette!
A professional soda blaster would be best and easiest. If you can't find one you need to find a pro that works on fiberglass. We just fixed a vette that a guy had sandblasted ( they told him they would soda blast it) and they blew holes in the body and blew off all the gelcoat.
I have The Same Bad Experience with An old stripper can like that. When I boughted New Work like a Charm. Once it Take Air Inside Change Of Color And Lost strenght.
I bet your neighbor loves you....rattle can overspray all over their car. hehehe
can you make repairs over 2k primer, and then use sandable primer over that? Newbie here, thanks for information in your videos.
Yes check out the gunman he has some really good videos for beginners
Painted a car today, 1F7 Toyota I believe the code is, got a lot of motteling so I took it outta the booth and pressure washed it off and re did it lol, any tips for that Bryan? I laid the first coat on medium wet around 24psi 1.2 tip sata 5000 (work provided gun) reduced it 1.1 with my blender 50/50 sprayed my second coat effect coat looked nice but still a little mottle, we use spies hecker
I used spies Hecker for most of my career and it’s a awesome paint line. I would try the effect coat/ drop with the base only and use the 50/50 only on a blend. I would also bump the pressure down to 18 psi when u do the effect coat. Make sure u have coverage first. With spies Hecker it’s usually 3 coats and a effect
@@juanmata2433 we are taught by Axalta at 1-1/2 cost more of needed but that’s are base where they want us to stay, for production which kind of sucks sometimes, dropping the pressure help with silvers ? I couldn’t get it to lay flat to save myself! It was rough
@@G1bson258 I get it. Time is money in every production shop but so is respraying. 1& 1/2 coat is in a perfect world. It’s not on every job that ur required to do the extra steps so don’t get discouraged.1F7 is a tough color. Dropping the pressure will help u get that uniformed color u would expect to get. Sometimes i would do a double effect coat if needed.
@@G1bson258 check out the everyday painter channel. 10days ago he posted a video of 1F7 on a Corolla
@@juanmata2433 will do man thank you!
Do I do this to my truck that has peeling paint? Does this mean I have to do the whole truck?
The older formula Aircraft Stripper was awesome.The new formula not so good
Looks like the Eastwood Contour is the way to go
It will work but it’s very slow. But leaves the metal nice
I'm glad you mentioned the Eastwood tool. It may take longer, but delivers a much better finish to the metal.
Can I use kleen strip on urethane or plastic bumpers?