Wow,how can you hate on Truth, love it or not, results speak louder than hate....this guy jus saved me a costly paint job, I subscribed right away. Thnx man
What sets you apart form other DIY scratch repairs is that you do it from start to finish without editing and - thus giving the full transparency of the before and after results! This is how all illustrations should be. Well done and thank you :)
Yeah - YOU can „see“ the scratch - because you know where it had been 😅😉. I see a perfectly intact side panel 🤗! Excellent job, especially for Metallic paint. I bow for you sir! 🙏
I work at a car supermarket and learned myself for a few months on this kind of repair I'm getting better each time I do it but watching this has given me a new way to try and improve what I do will be trying this nxt time I get a scratch like that
Knowledge and honesty is key to appreciation. Thanks a lot. I wish someone can do a skilled mod of cars (any regular car) to install sentry monitoring system much like tesla to track down the culprit who like to key people car.
Thanks for explaining about metallic paint looking darker I did not know that. I recently scratched my metallic blue paint and got rid of the white mostly in a deep scratch, but did wonder why when I filled in it looked different.
I recently mixed mine original paint code for old Nissan Primera (too dark) with light grey from an Opel / Vauxhall. It was perfect matching. So you can just try mix, guiding with your eyes, probably closer than original new, becaus of old metallic that always changes in color.
I also had succes by filling scratch this deep with paint and like you said than after drying remove with alcohol, but the part of the scratch was luckily the last to stick. So I could just wipe over it until only the filled paint was left. Trying to say that the filled part of the scratch seems to keep the paint the best, that makes it easier. So maybe it''s not even needed to keep so much safe room as you did, although better safe than sorry perhaps...
This is a good tip. One issue I have with this Is sometimes it can push the metallics about and look worse than if left to settle. Defo all encourage trial and error tho
Hello from across the pond. I can’t thank you enough for your informative videos. I recently got my off road vehicle all scratched up on a nasty trail. I have had some luck already with polishing the scratches but didn’t know what to do about some of the deeper gashes. The information provided here is priceless!
@@cvrpov Yeah I've been watching a while and used the methods to great effect. The way you just lightly drop in "this is a product I like to use" is all that's needed. Viewers can then research said products themselves. No need to just rabbit on like a lot of channels do. Great video style mate.
Just a note on some great work. The scratch is still visible because the scratch was not widened enough during initial sanding; it's not the metallic making it look darker, it's the graduation being too steep and how the light is reflecting back through the clearcoat. For deep scratches it's well worth going deeper and wider to a point you may need to use primer, sure it will take a few minutes longer but you will get far better results; remember the primer color needs to match that on the car. Run your fingers down the sanded profile, if you feel anything then you need to keep widening. You can also mask off the scratch to stop needing to use thinner to wipe away the initial excess. Either way as you say it depends what you think is apt. Well done on a great video.
That's a great tip thanks for the feedback. However, I still believe that metallics such as this colour and silvers etc still are almost impossible to make look 100%perfect. I've never seen a repair anywhere on a silver that I have been totally impressed with.
There's no way to spread that scratch out without having to use spray cans which will result in a huge halo between blending new paint and old paint you might as well respray the whole panel and adjacent panels. Blending is the hardest part
About the darker metallic : I recently mixed mine original paint code for old Nissan Primera (too dark) with light grey from an Opel / Vauxhall. It was perfect matching. So you can just try mix with colors, guiding / guessing with your eyes, probably closer than original new, becaus of old metallic that always changes in color.
All of your videos are awesome and super informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community. Any suggestions on brands / website to purchase up high quality paint and materials? I’m in the US
You can save some time and apply base/clear with hardener mixed together at once. I also experimented with a rubber squeege. It levels up the paint famously. Leaving little to none residue :)
Great honest video as usual. Thanks. Does this method with solvent base coat and separate 2k clear coat give better results than using the Paint gear solvent base that already has the enhancer mixed in? Thanks again.
Very good repair, very impressive. Good repair for a ‘Runaround’ car. Saves claiming on the insurance or paying a body shop direct. Never forget to find who keyed the car in the first place… 😉😉😉
Thnx for detailed steps. Just to understand better, when should the base coat mixed with lacquer/clear coat be used (in your earlier videos) and when base only & then clear coat like you did in this video ? Thanks
The best for me from this video is how you applied the paint and clear coat I would normally use a tiny brush for the paint and a spray can for the clear, but this method more easier and level and if you where more gentle with the sanding could you of did it a second time and remove more of the scratch?
I have been watching with great interest the various techniques used. I have worked in a professional panel shop here in Australia and it is nice to see such great alternatives to the full on approach. I have a W203 series C Class Mercedes and for the life of me I cannot understand how it has been accumulating so many stone chips on the bonnet/hood top, roof top and even down the sides as high as the C Pillar. These chips are right down to the metal and easily 2mm x 2mm with a couple being slightly larger. The one thing they all have in common is the metal develops rust on its surface in a day or two. What should I do to prepare this for one of your repair techniques and with the thickness of the paint,would cellulose putty be a worthwhile filler before the paint and clear coat? I have a Dremel tool with a wire brush fitted, would it be an option to use this to clean out the rust? Thanks for sharing so many great secrets with us, in this current economic climate it seems it is just what we need. 👍👍👍👍👍
Someone scratched my door few months ago, like in this vid. Tried it myself but messed it up. Had to send it to the shop, 350€ gone. This is harder than it looks but you make it look easy
You just have to get some experience. My first try was a failure as well, but the more I tried the better I got. I did a whole car with stone chips and small scratches and it looks way better now than before.
Would it make sense to fill the scratch first with a filler (under coat paint) before the first sand? I am thinking that reduces the depth of the scratch and you rely less on sanding down the clear coat to start with. Just an idea.
You described the paint as a mixture. Did you add something to touch up paint or was this something different? Also, since you leveled the paint after the initial basecoat, I don't understand how the clear applied later gets into the scratch. Sorry, if I am dense. I appreciate your work.
Full transparency, paintgear is your business, your shop. Be honest and say that, not things like “we like to use paintgear” making it sound different. Promote your business! I’d buy from paintgear to support you, so be proud and push it in your videos, don’t make out it’s something different that’s all. Another really great and helpful video! Order coming soon 👍
I don't mind where you get your paint from. There needs to be some detachment from Paint Gear and TH-cam content. Paint Gear just sell Paint, what the user does with it and the results they get is entirely up to them.
@@cvrpov Fair enough, not sure why any detachment would be good but then I’m not in business. Either way, knowing you are the same makes me want to support both, maybe others might think the same, that’s all I’m saying, promote it all I say 😊👍
@pricey78 I always try and say paintgear sell paint, that's it. No magic tricks like other companies claim. Appreciated the support mate.. not everyone is so level headed unfortunately 👍🏼
It's me again just a thought if your adding gloss enhancer in the base coat mix your selling, why are you making it twice as hard applying lacquer coat after ward's, I just don't know how you don't break through the lacquer, tried this exact same technique on a similar length scratch on my brothers keyed mazda 6.flated with3k still unfortunately broke through painted door in the end. Good work matey 👍obviously being a car painter myself, it's a shit or bust! go for it job.
Can you tell me if there are any other brands of cutting compound you recommend and/or what I need to look for on the packaging? Paintgear doesn’t ship to Canada and the cheapest I can get a 100ml tube of G360 here is about £25. Also when ordering touch up paint, how do I know if it’s solvent based? Are all touch up paints typically solvent based? Thanks so much for your content!
Hi, having watched your channel for a while, it has inspired me to 'have a go' myself to save money on small areas of my car. Unfortunately I have a really bad area on the rear bottom quarter from someone scraping my car at a supermarket. There is no way I can tackle it myself. It is a Lexus IS 250 with pearl white paint. I have been told that the whole rear bumper will need a respray, and even then there is no guarantee that you won't be able to see it as Lexus pearlecent is a nightmare to match. I am in the UK and would be happy to travel to you to see if you could do it without a full respray. I don't think it can be done but it would make a great video for your channel if you think it would be possible 😄
Great Tutorial, thanks for sharing. And good luck with the business. One question, I bought the drill attachment and buffing pad, can you get just as good results with this or is it best to get a proper polisher ? Cheers Vince.
Each time I watch your videos, I feel that I can do the same :) but you're doing very well because of your experience. We may not get a similar result on our car :( Anyway, really good and another educative video. Thanks mate,
Another great video that was easy to watch 👍 Would be very interested to see a repair on a silver metallic. I've heard they can be a bit tricky, but I'm sure you'd make it look easy!
Hi can you help please my wife's car the passenger side door there is a very thin hair line dent it's hard to see from the side but looking straight on you can see it it's not damaged the paint or the clear coat any ideas on how I could fix this the damaged bit is about 10 inches long but it's very thin line I don't know if a dent puller would work as its so thin
I have watched a few of your videos and used them to fix a handful of different cars. Results speak for themselves! Was wondering if you would make a video about dealing with harder paint like audi/vw. I find it much harder to blend in the paint. Buffing leaves it looking very obvious
Good job! I have question. Why do you used 2 step (paint and clear) this time but some other videos you mixing paint with clear and apply in one step? How do you choose a method for a particular case?
@@cvrpov MATE IM TRYING TO BECOME A SMART REPAIR TECHNICIAN BUT I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE AND NO COMPANY WILL HIRE ME BECAUSE I DONT HAVE EXPERIENCE ANY ADVICE? CHEERS MATE
Great video - many thanks. One question - why do you do colour and clear coat separately with this method rather than pre-mixing them and doing it all in one go as per your fingertip method video?
I have the same question -- just watched the "finger" video and was ready to try that, then I see this and I'm confused as to pro and cons of one vs the other?
Hi. After watching several of your impressive videos, i’ve since started receiving ads for chipex. What are your thoughts on this product & procedure to take? Thanks
I know this is an old video but I cant figure out why couldnt you (after sanding with 2000 grit) used a thin paint brush and filled in the scratch till your happy with paint mixed with clearcoat then sanded at 1500 then 2000 then compounded and so on? I am just learning at the moment appreciate all the videos.
Hi Martin, I've asked this question a few times over the months but I haven't had a repsonse as yet. 6 months ago you added a video called Quickest way to repair scratches, or something like that, where you used a foam applicator to apply to paint. I tried this method with a solvent colour matched paint from a reputable auto paint supply shop. When i try to buff off with a compound, all the paint ive applied, comes off with little effort and I'm left with the original issue. Can you please help me with what i might be doing wrong. Ive had to give up on these minor repairs as i couldnt get them to work. But I'd like to try and sort out why. Thanks in advance. Also im using a DA as i dont have a rotary.
Hi, sorry, the amount of messages become overwhelming and i struggle to keep on top of them. If it's road rash on sills etc try and rub in using an old microfiber. On bodywork scratches maybe try with your finger. Definatley recommend using something that spins such as a drill or rotary as DA doesn't seem to be very good with these kind of methods unfortunately
@@cvrpovappreciate the reply mate. I do have a cordless drill with an attachment for a 3" pad. I figured the DA would be less aggresive. Just cant work out why its stripping the touch up paint straight off, ceven after waiting 2 or 3 days after applying it. Its like its not bonding with anything.
@@rooboy99 Hi mate! I'll try to give you some tips that have worked out for me. I'm not a professional, just a DIYfer, but with some experience. First of all wash your work area very well and use fine detailing clay bar to remove all the contaminants off your car's paint. Dry sand the scratch a little bit with 2000 grit sand paper like CVR POV did in his video, just to smooth the edges of the scratch. Degrease, degrease, degrease everything. Tip: Dab a little amount of acetone with a cotton swab on the scratch and let it dry by itself, don't touch it! This will guarantee your bond of the paint. Then apply a little amount of your colour (preferably mixed with clear coat) into the scratch with some kind of tiny brush, until you fill it and going a little bit over it. Make sure you just finish to go over the scratch in order to cover the edges of the scratch but not to much. Just a liiiittle bit. Tip: Let the scratch absorb the drops of colour from the edge of your brush, needle or wtv (properties of the surface tension) and don't dab it in the scratch again and again. The less amount of colour, the less sanding later. Let it dry over night or a couple of days (depends on the weather conditions and humidity). Return, wash the area, and degrease, degrease again. Then use 1500 grit sand paper (wet or dry, I prefer wet) with a sponge block to sand down the excess of paint and level it down with the adjacent paintwork. Keep moving back and forth in a 45 degree diagonal direction (not parallel to the scratch, like CVR does in the video). Always inspect your work. Make sure you don't have any high spots with your nail. If you do so, you continue to sand, always inspecting your progress. Little or no pressure, let the sand paper do its work. Take your time and focus on what you're doing. You can repeat the process by applying some more colour, if somewhere is missing. Then use 2000 grit wet sand paper to smooth it out and remove the scratches that you created with the 1500 grit, slightly widening your sanding area. Then buff the whole panel. A rotary polisher or a cordless drill is better and a DA for the minor scratches. Do not apply wax for at least 4 weeks or more. I hope that helps. PS1: The hardest task is to match your colour. Non metallic black or white is easier, metallics, silver and its shades are the worse. The safest choice is to ask the paint shop to match your colour with a spectrograph (in most of the paint shops here in Greece is available). It's the best you can have with a max of 5% colour shade deviation. PS2: CVR, great effort as always!
@@tasosanagnostopoulos2687thank you for your detailed reply. Should I add hardener to the colour. Is it buffing out because its too soft without hardener? Cheers
Wow,how can you hate on Truth, love it or not, results speak louder than hate....this guy jus saved me a costly paint job, I subscribed right away. Thnx man
What sets you apart form other DIY scratch repairs is that you do it from start to finish without editing and - thus giving the full transparency of the before and after results! This is how all illustrations should be. Well done and thank you :)
I was dubious at the start but that result speaks for itself !
Well presented and easy to watch, well done!
Cheers. Appreciate you taking the time to comment
Yeah - YOU can „see“ the scratch - because you know where it had been 😅😉. I see a perfectly intact side panel 🤗!
Excellent job, especially for Metallic paint. I bow for you sir! 🙏
Glad you appreciate that perfection isn't always the be all and end all. A good improvement can help loads
@@cvrpov A bunch!
“I can strive for excellence. Perfection is god’s business!”
M. J. Fox 😉
Keep going brother! 🫶
I work at a car supermarket and learned myself for a few months on this kind of repair I'm getting better each time I do it but watching this has given me a new way to try and improve what I do will be trying this nxt time I get a scratch like that
Perfect for prepping cars up for retail
Knowledge and honesty is key to appreciation. Thanks a lot.
I wish someone can do a skilled mod of cars (any regular car) to install sentry monitoring system much like tesla to track down the culprit who like to key people car.
Love the videos. Why are people so critical. I’ve watched and got results. Thank you
I got really good results using your other method of touch up paint massaged in with finger then g360
Yep I love that method too
The most satisfying job in the world😊
Nice
Thanks for explaining about metallic paint looking darker I did not know that. I recently scratched my metallic blue paint and got rid of the white mostly in a deep scratch, but did wonder why when I filled in it looked different.
No one talks about it. People want to fool people for views. I will be doing more in depth stuff over the next few months
I recently mixed mine original paint code for old Nissan Primera (too dark) with light grey from an Opel / Vauxhall. It was perfect matching. So you can just try mix, guiding with your eyes, probably closer than original new, becaus of old metallic that always changes in color.
I also had succes by filling scratch this deep with paint and like you said than after drying remove with alcohol, but the part of the scratch was luckily the last to stick. So I could just wipe over it until only the filled paint was left. Trying to say that the filled part of the scratch seems to keep the paint the best, that makes it easier. So maybe it''s not even needed to keep so much safe room as you did, although better safe than sorry perhaps...
This is a good tip. One issue I have with this Is sometimes it can push the metallics about and look worse than if left to settle. Defo all encourage trial and error tho
Hello from across the pond. I can’t thank you enough for your informative videos. I recently got my off road vehicle all scratched up on a nasty trail. I have had some luck already with polishing the scratches but didn’t know what to do about some of the deeper gashes. The information provided here is priceless!
One of the best ive seen to get me started to look after the car thanks a lot
No problem 👍
Man you make everything look so easy! Loving your videos
Very nice work! Thanks for showing us how to do it!
Cheers
Another great no nonsense guide that just speaks for itself. Best correction guides on the Tube! 💪
Thanks mate. I am as no bs as possible
@@cvrpov Yeah I've been watching a while and used the methods to great effect.
The way you just lightly drop in "this is a product I like to use" is all that's needed. Viewers can then research said products themselves. No need to just rabbit on like a lot of channels do. Great video style mate.
Ive just used this method on a rear arch with multiple scratches. I obviously still know its there but 100% better than what it was. Thanks!
That's great to hear well done
A cada vídeo que assisto, fico ainda mais impressionado com o resultado. Muito bom mesmo.
Obrigado pelos vídeos
Saudações aqui do Brasil
Awesome. Thanks for watching my friend
Got the paint from paint gear tried it for first time applying with finger and after buffing I’m amazed at results thanks mate
Great to hear!
Trabajado espectacular 👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏
Just a note on some great work. The scratch is still visible because the scratch was not widened enough during initial sanding; it's not the metallic making it look darker, it's the graduation being too steep and how the light is reflecting back through the clearcoat. For deep scratches it's well worth going deeper and wider to a point you may need to use primer, sure it will take a few minutes longer but you will get far better results; remember the primer color needs to match that on the car. Run your fingers down the sanded profile, if you feel anything then you need to keep widening. You can also mask off the scratch to stop needing to use thinner to wipe away the initial excess. Either way as you say it depends what you think is apt. Well done on a great video.
That's a great tip thanks for the feedback. However, I still believe that metallics such as this colour and silvers etc still are almost impossible to make look 100%perfect. I've never seen a repair anywhere on a silver that I have been totally impressed with.
Primer or filler then paint. Problem is touch up paint is darker because it's new and the rest of the paint is old and faded
There's no way to spread that scratch out without having to use spray cans which will result in a huge halo between blending new paint and old paint you might as well respray the whole panel and adjacent panels. Blending is the hardest part
I think it looks great. I'm going to try this on my wife's car.
Just bought paint gear kit, and watching you vids has shown me what i need to do
Have fun!
About the darker metallic : I recently mixed mine original paint code for old Nissan Primera (too dark) with light grey from an Opel / Vauxhall. It was perfect matching. So you can just try mix with colors, guiding / guessing with your eyes, probably closer than original new, becaus of old metallic that always changes in color.
True. In the past I've got paints out my collection and not the exact manufacturer on and had better results
Just found this channel and it's excellent thanks, would appreciate a tutorial on repairing a small crack in a plastic rear bumper. Thanks again
Noted. Thanks
Great job!!
Thank you!
All of your videos are awesome and super informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community.
Any suggestions on brands / website to purchase up high quality paint and materials? I’m in the US
Not at the moment. Check my links in description. Maybe amazon has some
I followed you're instructions here and got similar results. Great video and thank you 👍
You can save some time and apply base/clear with hardener mixed together at once. I also experimented with a rubber squeege. It levels up the paint famously. Leaving little to none residue :)
Can you mix both base coat clear together ???
Yes you can
Great honest video as usual. Thanks. Does this method with solvent base coat and separate 2k clear coat give better results than using the Paint gear solvent base that already has the enhancer mixed in? Thanks again.
Great tutorial!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent content, thanks, gonna try this on my scratched bumper, thanks.
Good luck. Cheers
What a great job 👏
Thanks
Top job, you don't need to talk your work down. I'd be very happy with that repair on my car👍🏼
Good. Unfortunately gotta cover your arse when being a 'creator', the wolves are always round the corner 😂
My thoughts exactly! Not all of us are looking to criticize, excellent work!😊
Well done, again. Great work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Wooow 👏🏻 👏🏻 👏🏻 👏🏻 👏🏻 excelente trabajo. Congratulations ❤
Cheers
Sei bravo fratello, ovviamente anche tanta esperienza, complimenti sei Top Top Saluti Italiani
Thanks.. much appreciated from the uk 🇬🇧
Quality job well done sir
Thank you! Cheers!
Felicidades! Por trabajo! Problema es que dode compro eu en Roumania pasta de color coche en my cazo plata metalizata para 307 sw ?
Very good repair, very impressive.
Good repair for a ‘Runaround’ car. Saves claiming on the insurance or paying a body shop direct.
Never forget to find who keyed the car in the first place…
😉😉😉
Thnx for detailed steps. Just to understand better, when should the base coat mixed with lacquer/clear coat be used (in your earlier videos) and when base only & then clear coat like you did in this video ? Thanks
Both can be used mate they both work. I like to do them separately on worse scratches
The best for me from this video is how you applied the paint and clear coat I would normally use a tiny brush for the paint and a spray can for the clear, but this method more easier and level and if you where more gentle with the sanding could you of did it a second time and remove more of the scratch?
I have been watching with great interest the various techniques used. I have worked in a professional panel shop here in Australia and it is nice to see such great alternatives to the full on approach.
I have a W203 series C Class Mercedes and for the life of me I cannot understand how it has been accumulating so many stone chips on the bonnet/hood top, roof top and even down the sides as high as the C Pillar. These chips are right down to the metal and easily 2mm x 2mm with a couple being slightly larger. The one thing they all have in common is the metal develops rust on its surface in a day or two.
What should I do to prepare this for one of your repair techniques and with the thickness of the paint,would cellulose putty be a worthwhile filler before the paint and clear coat?
I have a Dremel tool with a wire brush fitted, would it be an option to use this to clean out the rust?
Thanks for sharing so many great secrets with us, in this current economic climate it seems it is just what we need. 👍👍👍👍👍
Someone scratched my door few months ago, like in this vid. Tried it myself but messed it up. Had to send it to the shop, 350€ gone. This is harder than it looks but you make it look easy
You just have to get some experience. My first try was a failure as well, but the more I tried the better I got. I did a whole car with stone chips and small scratches and it looks way better now than before.
super helpful thank you !!
Would it make sense to fill the scratch first with a filler (under coat paint) before the first sand? I am thinking that reduces the depth of the scratch and you rely less on sanding down the clear coat to start with.
Just an idea.
I've tried this on deep chips and had good results..I will probably do a video on it
I wish I’d seen you before 🙏🏻 excellent excellent job 👍🏻
Thank you!
Amazing looks really good
Thanks
Can I do this with any touch up paint ?
Solvent based
Hi mate nice job is the clear coat 1k or 2 pack
You described the paint as a mixture. Did you add something to touch up paint or was this something different? Also, since you leveled the paint after the initial basecoat, I don't understand how the clear applied later gets into the scratch. Sorry, if I am dense. I appreciate your work.
The colour basecoat is just basecoat. The scratch won't be completely filled by the basecoat and the lacquer afterwards should level into the scratch
Full transparency, paintgear is your business, your shop. Be honest and say that, not things like “we like to use paintgear” making it sound different. Promote your business! I’d buy from paintgear to support you, so be proud and push it in your videos, don’t make out it’s something different that’s all. Another really great and helpful video! Order coming soon 👍
I don't mind where you get your paint from. There needs to be some detachment from Paint Gear and TH-cam content. Paint Gear just sell Paint, what the user does with it and the results they get is entirely up to them.
@@cvrpov Fair enough, not sure why any detachment would be good but then I’m not in business. Either way, knowing you are the same makes me want to support both, maybe others might think the same, that’s all I’m saying, promote it all I say 😊👍
@pricey78 I always try and say paintgear sell paint, that's it. No magic tricks like other companies claim. Appreciated the support mate.. not everyone is so level headed unfortunately 👍🏼
It's me again just a thought if your adding gloss enhancer in the base coat mix your selling, why are you making it twice as hard applying lacquer coat after ward's, I just don't know how you don't break through the lacquer, tried this exact same technique on a similar length scratch on my brothers keyed mazda 6.flated with3k still unfortunately broke through painted door in the end. Good work matey 👍obviously being a car painter myself, it's a shit or bust! go for it job.
Agree with you 100%
Can you do this but using a touch up pen followed my a clear coat finish ? Using the car reg to get the correct colour as well
...wouldn't it help to squeegee/ to put down a light primer layer in the scratch so the scratch doesn't look as dark ??
Question I have is the paint you use is just basecoat? or basecoat with clear and hardener?
Nevermind, you already answered mid video. Thanks and great job
No worries!
Can you tell me if there are any other brands of cutting compound you recommend and/or what I need to look for on the packaging? Paintgear doesn’t ship to Canada and the cheapest I can get a 100ml tube of G360 here is about £25. Also when ordering touch up paint, how do I know if it’s solvent based? Are all touch up paints typically solvent based? Thanks so much for your content!
Well done ✅✅
Thanks
Informative vid. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job can you tell me what exactly the paint mixture is...have you got clear coat and hardener in it ??
It's solvent basecoat from www.paintgear.co.uk then it's 2k clearcoat lacquer from the same Company
That’s great work🙌🙌🙌
Thank you
Looks amazing
Big improvement
Hi, having watched your channel for a while, it has inspired me to 'have a go' myself to save money on small areas of my car.
Unfortunately I have a really bad area on the rear bottom quarter from someone scraping my car at a supermarket. There is no way I can tackle it myself.
It is a Lexus IS 250 with pearl white paint.
I have been told that the whole rear bumper will need a respray, and even then there is no guarantee that you won't be able to see it as Lexus pearlecent is a nightmare to match.
I am in the UK and would be happy to travel to you to see if you could do it without a full respray.
I don't think it can be done but it would make a great video for your channel if you think it would be possible 😄
Great Tutorial, thanks for sharing.
And good luck with the business.
One question, I bought the drill attachment and buffing pad, can you get just as good results with this or is it best to get a proper polisher ?
Cheers
Vince.
This equipment is fine, it just takes longer so allow more time for polishing and be patient
Do you use oem paint color?
Clearcoat or just base paint?
Watch again mate. Its basecoat 1st then clearcoat lacquer afterwards
Each time I watch your videos, I feel that I can do the same :) but you're doing very well because of your experience. We may not get a similar result on our car :(
Anyway, really good and another educative video. Thanks mate,
Lots of viewers have gotten awesome results so don't write yourself off
😅😅 I feel better now
@@Matt_3535 don't think cvrpov hasn't burned through some clear coat in his day. I know I sure have 😅 get out there and fuck up something nice
Do you think that the black color (Nero Pastello) would looks better after this kind of paint job?
Black is always a good colour to work on
Hi, can i also use some thinner in stead of the "reducer" ?
As always awesome job 👍
Thanks
Another great video that was easy to watch 👍 Would be very interested to see a repair on a silver metallic. I've heard they can be a bit tricky, but I'm sure you'd make it look easy!
Hi can you help please my wife's car the passenger side door there is a very thin hair line dent it's hard to see from the side but looking straight on you can see it it's not damaged the paint or the clear coat any ideas on how I could fix this the damaged bit is about 10 inches long but it's very thin line I don't know if a dent puller would work as its so thin
Find a good local pdr guy
Cracking job, Sir. Minty.
I have watched a few of your videos and used them to fix a handful of different cars. Results speak for themselves!
Was wondering if you would make a video about dealing with harder paint like audi/vw. I find it much harder to blend in the paint. Buffing leaves it looking very obvious
Thanks mate. The next set of videos I make will be about this kinda thing.
@@cvrpovI’ve got a tt so would love to see that.
what exactly is the material you use?
Beautifull Video thnx a million ...
Thank you
Wowwww. Can the products be delivered to the states ?
Not at the moment sorry. I've put some amazon links In for people in the states on some car products
Good job! I have question. Why do you used 2 step (paint and clear) this time but some other videos you mixing paint with clear and apply in one step? How do you choose a method for a particular case?
Just different methods mate. This is for deeper scratches
I love your honesty mate
I see so many creators trying to blag people. I'm trying to be as real as possible even if people don't like what I say
@@cvrpov MATE IM TRYING TO BECOME A SMART REPAIR TECHNICIAN BUT I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE AND NO COMPANY WILL HIRE ME BECAUSE I DONT HAVE EXPERIENCE ANY ADVICE? CHEERS MATE
Great stuff.
Glad you enjoyed it
Good job 🙂👍🇧🇻
Cheers
Will work a lot better on a non metalic , great job to tidy up a car top job !
Yep. People don't speak about this enough
Great video - many thanks. One question - why do you do colour and clear coat separately with this method rather than pre-mixing them and doing it all in one go as per your fingertip method video?
I have the same question -- just watched the "finger" video and was ready to try that, then I see this and I'm confused as to pro and cons of one vs the other?
Class job mate
Cheers
I My self I would sand the area and do a blend the high sides and feather The edges and use a air brush
Hi. After watching several of your impressive videos, i’ve since started receiving ads for chipex. What are your thoughts on this product & procedure to take?
Thanks
great job
Thanks
What kind of pressure are you using when sanding?
I wished you shipped the basic paint its to the US. I need some Land Rover Baltic Blue for a new to me L322 that Im trying to bring back to glory.
Could you not use your other method of filling and polishing off after a few minutes with a drill? Thanks
I find there's a threshold of when that doesn't work and deep wide scratches pass that threshold
@@cvrpov thanks
Great Job to be fair. Ten times better than it was!
Cheers
Looks good to me 👍👍
Cheers
I know this is an old video but I cant figure out why couldnt you (after sanding with 2000 grit) used a thin paint brush and filled in the scratch till your happy with paint mixed with clearcoat then sanded at 1500 then 2000 then compounded and so on? I am just learning at the moment appreciate all the videos.
Good Job mate
Thanks
There is rubbing compound and there is finishing compound. It would be nice if you could explain the difference to achieve best results. Thank you.
This is a cutting compound. It's just a high grit course polish. A finishing compound/polish is obviously less course
@@cvrpov Thanks for the reply. What recommendations do you have for a good finishing compound?
Hi Martin, I've asked this question a few times over the months but I haven't had a repsonse as yet. 6 months ago you added a video called Quickest way to repair scratches, or something like that, where you used a foam applicator to apply to paint. I tried this method with a solvent colour matched paint from a reputable auto paint supply shop. When i try to buff off with a compound, all the paint ive applied, comes off with little effort and I'm left with the original issue. Can you please help me with what i might be doing wrong. Ive had to give up on these minor repairs as i couldnt get them to work. But I'd like to try and sort out why. Thanks in advance. Also im using a DA as i dont have a rotary.
Hi, sorry, the amount of messages become overwhelming and i struggle to keep on top of them. If it's road rash on sills etc try and rub in using an old microfiber. On bodywork scratches maybe try with your finger. Definatley recommend using something that spins such as a drill or rotary as DA doesn't seem to be very good with these kind of methods unfortunately
@@cvrpovappreciate the reply mate. I do have a cordless drill with an attachment for a 3" pad. I figured the DA would be less aggresive. Just cant work out why its stripping the touch up paint straight off, ceven after waiting 2 or 3 days after applying it. Its like its not bonding with anything.
@@rooboy99 Hi mate! I'll try to give you some tips that have worked out for me. I'm not a professional, just a DIYfer, but with some experience. First of all wash your work area very well and use fine detailing clay bar to remove all the contaminants off your car's paint. Dry sand the scratch a little bit with 2000 grit sand paper like CVR POV did in his video, just to smooth the edges of the scratch. Degrease, degrease, degrease everything. Tip: Dab a little amount of acetone with a cotton swab on the scratch and let it dry by itself, don't touch it! This will guarantee your bond of the paint. Then apply a little amount of your colour (preferably mixed with clear coat) into the scratch with some kind of tiny brush, until you fill it and going a little bit over it. Make sure you just finish to go over the scratch in order to cover the edges of the scratch but not to much. Just a liiiittle bit. Tip: Let the scratch absorb the drops of colour from the edge of your brush, needle or wtv (properties of the surface tension) and don't dab it in the scratch again and again. The less amount of colour, the less sanding later. Let it dry over night or a couple of days (depends on the weather conditions and humidity). Return, wash the area, and degrease, degrease again. Then use 1500 grit sand paper (wet or dry, I prefer wet) with a sponge block to sand down the excess of paint and level it down with the adjacent paintwork. Keep moving back and forth in a 45 degree diagonal direction (not parallel to the scratch, like CVR does in the video). Always inspect your work. Make sure you don't have any high spots with your nail. If you do so, you continue to sand, always inspecting your progress. Little or no pressure, let the sand paper do its work. Take your time and focus on what you're doing. You can repeat the process by applying some more colour, if somewhere is missing. Then use 2000 grit wet sand paper to smooth it out and remove the scratches that you created with the 1500 grit, slightly widening your sanding area. Then buff the whole panel. A rotary polisher or a cordless drill is better and a DA for the minor scratches. Do not apply wax for at least 4 weeks or more. I hope that helps.
PS1: The hardest task is to match your colour. Non metallic black or white is easier, metallics, silver and its shades are the worse. The safest choice is to ask the paint shop to match your colour with a spectrograph (in most of the paint shops here in Greece is available). It's the best you can have with a max of 5% colour shade deviation.
PS2: CVR, great effort as always!
@@tasosanagnostopoulos2687thank you for your detailed reply. Should I add hardener to the colour. Is it buffing out because its too soft without hardener? Cheers
Excellent. Sure you still see it but so far better than it was.
That's what we were aiming for with this one 👍🏼
That is remarkable
Thanks for the feedback
Nice job again 👍👍
Water or solvent based paint ?
Always solvent