I purchased a pickup that previous owner had spray painted over the factory paint (no prep). How can I remove only the paint they added??? The factory paint is good.
Great video. I would like to give you a word of caution when using a paint stripper like this. I am a retired Air Force aircraft painter with 40 years experience. I'm sure this product is not as strong as the stuff we use, but the fumes can be very dangerous. Please do not use the type of mask filters the guy is wearing in the video. Those are made for heavy particulates and or dust, not vapors and fumes. Those type off ilters will do nothing to stop the vapors from that paint stripper. If anything they will concentrate the fumes more inside the mask. When using this stuff, be sure to use an organic vapor and mist rated filter on your respirator. Check the instructions on the different types, but I believe the ones needed are the pink and black style or the pink and yellow 3M style cartridges for that type of mask. The proper cartridges have a charcoal layer inside the cartridge and a prefilter that helps stop the fumes and vapors. A full face would be better for eye protection. Be safe out there everyone.
A couple of decades ago I had to strip a hood which was painted multiple times by a so called professional. It has so many layers of paint it actually looked like a cheap fiberglass hood. I used the same process shown using plastic sheeting to capture the active ingredients while is worked. The hood was stripped clean and primed, painted, cleared. The shop manager was happy and more importantly, the customer was happy.
Back then the formula was totally different, ALL strippers are outright garbage now "by comparison". Knowing that already, my stubborn self needed to be re-convinced.. I just had a massive stripping project. I had two brands of old formula strippers in my garage. I was happy as a clam watching them turn old hard durable paint into wrinkly scrap-able goop, BUT the moment I ran out, and re-purchased the same brands in their new, tree-hugger, EPA approved, save the world formula, everything stopped - and I mean STOPPED. It was EASILY TEN times less effective - not twice less effective - TEN times, and I'm being conservative. I reapplied than reapplied until the entire can were completely gone, and it still was less effective and 2 MAX coats of the prior formula. Genuine stripper use is absolutely over.
I work in a shop, we recently stripped a set of wheels with this same product. To say it works great, even on powder coating it takes a bit longer. Just don't let it dry out, the slag paint becomes harder than it was. Great stripper. Wear eye protection,gloves, and probably outside.
@@harshadchari6065 We coated the wheels with self etching primer, then urethane primer. Before urethane base and clear coat. Hopefully it holds up for many years. IDK it was the shop owners call on the material used.
My toxic trait is watching videos like this and thinking "He makes it look and sound so easy, I should try it!" without thinking about the 20 years of experience that went into making it look easy.. Who's with me? 🤣
Just what I needed to see to inspire me to finally strip and paint the hood of my Tahoe. Except its not a project, it's my daily. 😅 and I have always appreciated how the steps and explanations are geared towards those who are predominately do-it-yourselfers.
I have to tell you, my best friend owns a body shop and I have worked down there several times doing the mechanical and some teardown. I have learned so much more from you in watching your videos than working down there. Great channel and please keep em coming! Thanks
Brian, your simple and effective way to paint is a godsend. I have a 50's heirloom Rolls with a late 80's paint job which is flaking off and rust spots. I've been paralyzed, but no more. Thank you. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Brian! Have you ever tried Coopers Strip Club products made in New Zealand? I’m restoring a Jaguar E-type coupe, I used their system and it was terrific - I stripped the entire car to bare metal. You spray it on with just a pump sprayer, let it sit for a bit then take the paint off with steel wool and a metal blade. Nearly no oder, a lot less messy and easy clean up!
I love this channel, I always learn something. Brian is a great teacher, he's clear, doesn't repeat himself over and over, he gets right to the point no endless backstories, and no uhs or ums. Really wish I saw this before I painted my truck black. I'd love to see a video on buffing too.
Lovely. Prepping for a project and trying to learn ahead of the work. This was certainly above my pay grade but beautiful results. Most chemical paint removers I've seen or used can't fight their way out of a paper bag because of healthandsafety but great tip to cover. As ever, loads of great help here. Many thanks!
I’m using this 15 minute ( next to last ) wait period method on my 1977 Gold Wing air cleaner box in black restoration- tomorrow. I’m confident that it’s going to eliminate most imperfections on a complicated part. Doing two coats of satin black over etching primer that dried for 36 hours - then with a light scuff with 3M Scotchbrite… then “tack-Rag” ( The Furniture Guys reference ) before 1st topcoat. Wanting to mimic factory finish. Thanks - your channel is excellent.
I have been a mechanic for almost 30 years now. The best paint remover that I have found on the cheap is. EASY OFF oven cleaner. Get the lemon one and you have a pleasant smell to go with it LOL.. It will take paint down to bare metal in about 10 mins. It will also strip the coating off any wheels that you want to paint .
Klean Strip used to have a dry process paint stripper back in the day. It would go on wet, wrinkle and dry. You could then run a razor blade over it down to bare metal. Stripped my 65 Pontiac with one gallon!
I do it the same way, but if you have no plans to paint the bottom side, I put ducktape on the edges covering 1-1 1/2 inches of the top paint. Stripper will still creep under the tape, but rarely makes it to the under side. When done cleaning up the Stripper, use a DA and sand off the remaining paint on the edge.
Glad to see you repping Eastwood's spray. Makes me feel a lot more confident using them as my trusted source. Quick tip on the 2K eastwood cans... You can freeze them overnight if you want to use them a second day. Freezing slows the reaction/cure time within the can
Something that helps make a job last is to get any redone steel down to bare metal and then once cleaned, heat it with a torch until the metal turns from dull to shiny and get all of that moisture drawn out the steel to prevent rust. While the steel is warm start spraying your primer and not only will you now not trap moisture, but it will help bake and bond the primer to the panel and help it last a decade vs. a few years.
We have a 2010 RX350 with OEM hood. Same chipping…exactly the same. This is not from rocks. I have seen many RX 350s with same chipping. Planning to repaint it myself and this video really helped. My paint is Lexus Pearl Gray/Smoky Granite Mica (1G0)
I’m not a painter nor a spray painter but I pickup a lot of different skills by watching TH-cam videos and I’m pretty good at it I did some bodywork on my 2006 Dodge Dakota truck V8 SLT and it came out pretty good for a beginner watching your videos I think I’ma paint it my self I mean what’s the worst that could happen right practice makes improvement
Brian, I'm sure you know already but it is advisable to wear your vapour respirator rather than the pancake particulate filters as they don't help against the paint stripper.
Great video and exactly what I needed. You started to answer the question I had, but really didn't. Where in this process would you do the bondo? Bare metal or after epoxy? I have no history with epoxy so would like to do it the best way. Thanks so much for doing these !!
The system I use has a 2k etch primer you can put in the gun. I strip the paint to bare metal, sand up to 320 on a da, etch (2 coats), seal, base, clear. Works great.
Great instructional video, well done. I'm surprised that stripper did so well, normally that new stuff does nothing even though I do the cling wrap step as well.
Great video, I too use that paint stripper but when I covered with plastic, it didn't pill as easy as it did for you, I had better results without. And I have better results in my paint jobs when I do a 50-50 or 75 overlap. Thanks for what you do.
I used the Ultra stripper and the other weaker version of this brand of stripper to strip my 73 van. It had 3 layers of paint and primer on it, so it had to be removed before I laid down a new custom paint job on it with European Clear Coat. I applied the stripper in sections and covered each area with plastic wrap (generic Saran Wrap). I left it on for about 20 minutes before removing the plastic wrap. It removed one layer of old paint at a time. So I had to reapply more stripper to remove each layer. I did have to mechanically remove some of the paint layers that the stripper wouldn’t lift. It’s messy and yep you need a respirator while working with it, but I prefer using it to stripping it all off by machine. To repaint my van, I used all Eastwood products. That included their epoxy primer, high build primer, single stage white and black urethane paints, Candeez candy paints and silver base coat for candy and their High Buid European Clear Coat. I’m finishing up the paint work after working on the paint, body and metal work since 2021. Here’s my take on Eastwood’s paint products-the primers worked fine. The single stage paints were fine either with or without clear (the van has a white base coat under the custom painted areas. It seems to be a quality paint for the price. The Candeez products are decent, though probably not as vibrant as House of Color products, but they were fine for the price. I used Urechem intercoat to apply the flake. The European Clear covers good and spreads itself out well and is crystal clear. I laid down multiple layers of it over several months. I wet sanded by hand with 400 between each coat and let each coat set up and harden for at least a week. There are probably 5 or 6 coats of clear on each area. I’m painting in my garage. I haven’t cut and buffed any of the clear yet, but one side that I am finished with looks flat and shiny without that step, so I think it’s going to look great after that step. I’m satisfied with the Eastwood paint products given the price I paid for them. I used 3 gallons kits of the clear which made 4 1/2 gallons of sprayable clear. I didn’t work on the van in winter, so there has been a four or five months hiatus each year which delayed the project. I’m about to finish it the paint this Fall. Next year I should be showing the van, which is called the Led Sled. It’s a tribute to Led Zeppelin.
Great video Brian! That stuff work as well as it used to, especially on catalyzed or baked enamels. I think that they may have removed some of the caustic chemicals for environmental reasons.
Thank's , I'm going to do this to my OBS 95 F 150. The hood has small crack's in the paint that I think go all the way down to the base metal. I was dreading having to sand it all the way down. Love your channel I've learned so much from you. Rob......
success depends on the paint being removed, obviously very easy on this example but that's not typical as usually end up requiring multiple attempts. In hard to reach areas it's fine but otherwise it's easier to use a stripping disc. Old paint strippers used methylene chloride, some other solvents, thickeners to keep it running off vertical surfaces and wax to reduce evaporation. How do I know, I was chemist at an industrial chemical company and we made it for various companies
I haven’t used that stuff in a while but I think it says to neutralize the acid with water afterwards, and I don’t have a problem with etch priming the whole panel, seal, base,clear in same day. I don’t use sealer and epoxy together
Thanks Brian have been useing aircraft stripper for a long time. The new formula low voc sucks compared to the go formula But I like the cover it with plastic going to have to try it on a firewall might be a little harder since its vertical 👍👍
Brian, I truly enjoy your channel and have learned a ton from you. I am a DIYer and into old 50-60’s cars. I am just starting a project of stripping the metal for rust repairs and body work. I would appreciate if you could give me your opinion on using “Klean Strip- Concrete & Metal Prep” on the bare metal after I get it stripped before It gets the epoxy primer? Are there any watch outs or other prep process that would be required if using that Metal Prep? Thanks!
Hi Brian thanks for the video! This actually motivated me to re-try painting my hood that I messed up the first time! Do you have any recommendations on a inexpensive gun that can deliver similar results to yours in this video? Also I think about enclosing a part of my workshop with plastic and plywood wood to make a "dust free" room and using to square fans with house filters one pulling and one pushing. Do you think this is a good idea for a diy spray boot? Any advice are welcome and thanks again for this amazing video! From 🇨🇦
The old aircraft stripper was awesome stuff. This new crap is expensive as hell and don't work worth a shit. The EPA made them take the good stuff out of it.
I recently tried the paint stripper, made more of a mess than anything. Followed the instructions to a tee. Did a hood hood twice and tons of paint left. Looks like the hood he stripped had one light coat so it stripped almost perfectly, setup? Going to buy a Bauer surface conditioning tool from HF.
i am in the process of restoring a 1968 dodge charger and the paint is chipped and gone to hell, it has to be taken off. would you recommend sanding it off or using a liquid remover? i am a complete beginner and have no experience, so a walkthrough on what to do and products to use would be much appreciated
Hi, that stuff works just like the aircraft stripper I was using in the 80"s except it doesn't have the additive. It was amazing how well it worked. I painted an entire car, went for supper and when I came back the paint on the vertical surfaces just fell off. no gooey mess. don't get this stuff on your skin!! Rich
Looks really nice. How would it look color sanded with the Linear Blocking System??? I'm a professional detailer and I'm looking to pull the trigger on that. Also, how long before the paint gasses off before color sanding? Thanks for a great presentation!
Excellent video. I have the same problem on my 2010 Lexus RX 350. Looks identical with those chips. Question, did you put two sealers coats then sand the second sealer coat or did you put one sealer coat, then one base and sand the base then out one heavy base coat and one drop coat? Doing this paint job this weekend!
I would use the citrus stripper with plastic over it to prevent drying. Leave overnight then pressure wash off followed by air drying with a leaf blower and air gun for the small details. Way less toxic than the heavy duty strippers.
I like you`re content :). Please use propper ppe, that first mask you used with the stripper is no good for those chemicals. you should use the same filters as you used in the spray booth. Take care!
In Finland we got these 2k paints cans that mix as you use the spray by Maston. Unfortunately the ones I've bought have never worked properly.... I haven't read a single good review of these cans except for one guy in germany who used it and said it worked fine. But it's apparently a thing and I wished more companies would try that. I'd really like some long lasting 2k in a rattle can for small fixes.
I am a little confused whats the difference between a sealer and an epoxy primer, primer is meant to protect the metal from rust then what purpose does the sealer serve
I got a question. Is mixing old paint with new a good idea? For instance, let's say you did a job with a specific paint code and years later, you have to do another job with that same paint code, but you don't have enough to do the whole job. You order more. Would it be a good idea to mix the new with the old?
This is probably an oem hood. You see this is alot in some models during some runs. They don't usually issue recalls for paint and if there are problems with the paint prep during manufacture it is not dealt with unless forced.
I don't know what kind of paint that was, but after watching a good 30 videos, we bought this stripper, Kleen Strip, 2 Minute, as well as some "Cooper's", (which is actually a bit better)..but NONE of them performed like this on 3 various years/types of paint on auto sheet metals, and 2 various furniture pieces and cabinet doors with a few layers of latexes. This would have been great, but even after HEAVY re-application and covering it in quality plastic wrap, it was "maybe" half this good in it's very best areas.
Hi just a question what’s the best cleaning product for bare metal that gives me a day or 2 window before I lay down epoxy primer what cleans the residue of the paint stripper completely
Hello You make it easy for the do-it-yourself , By not skipping any Techniques great presentation! I'm an old school painter Have you ever hot potted synthetic enamel? Later
Hey Brian, I recently clear coated a part using the extra slow reducer. The temperature was around 70 degrees in the shop, the clear coat laid down perfectly, and looked great until about 2 hours later it began to sag very slightly in one area. No big deal, I can get it out, but Im just curious as to why this may have happened, was it due to the usage of the extra slow reducer when the temperature was not very hot? Obviously laying it down heavy on the final coat likely contributed, but would using a slightly lower temp reducer help to prevent this?
Idk this newer aircraft stripper doesnt work like it used to. I remember ooening the can to use it and any painted surface in a 20ft radius paint was curling and falling off just from the fumes that wofted around. I used the new stuff on my motorcycle to strip the paint. Even covered in plastic sheeting it didnt do anything at all.
That paint stripper is definitely NOT like the old product that used dichloromethane (aka methylene chloride). Dichloromethane is now banned in the US. Unlike the old formula, this new formula is highly flammable.
Hello Brian, really liked you video. Looking for a good method for stripping and repainting Singer Featherweight sewing machines. Will the 'Aircraft Paint Remover' work with an aluminum frame machine or will it be to harsh a product?
Wow , modern paint stripper actually working. You can still buy real paint stripper that contains methylene chloride but you need to be a business and purchase in 5 gal quantities cost is about $375 . This is the stuff you need for powder coat removal.
I'm new to all this but man you guys do an awesome job on TH-cam University gonna be re doing my 2012 suburban roof I have learned a lots from you. Thanks a lot bro's.
you should make a video about how to find a good local paint shop.. can't be as simple as judging them based on price right? probably wanna ask them some questions about their process?
My MK2 GTI has needed a respray due to clear coat bubbling all over and ive been putting off the job of sanding it for ages. Paint stripper seems to be the move
Hey Brian, is this method good to try out on my integra, it only has primer sealer and I painted it about 2 years ago or more now so the paint is already dusting off or would it be better to sand down since it's only a thin coat and there's body work around the car? Thanks! Great video!
They removed a key ingredient so it no longer works as good. Im applying the 3rd coat of gel stripper this afternoon. The base paint and clear was laid at a premium painter and its not even easy to chip, it wont chip its tough. Maybe I need to experiment with a different stripper.
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Are there cheap alternatives?
Can brake fluid be viable?
I purchased a pickup that previous owner had spray painted over the factory paint (no prep). How can I remove only the paint they added???
The factory paint is good.
Great video. I would like to give you a word of caution when using a paint stripper like this. I am a retired Air Force aircraft painter with 40 years experience. I'm sure this product is not as strong as the stuff we use, but the fumes can be very dangerous. Please do not use the type of mask filters the guy is wearing in the video. Those are made for heavy particulates and or dust, not vapors and fumes. Those type off ilters will do nothing to stop the vapors from that paint stripper. If anything they will concentrate the fumes more inside the mask. When using this stuff, be sure to use an organic vapor and mist rated filter on your respirator. Check the instructions on the different types, but I believe the ones needed are the pink and black style or the pink and yellow 3M style cartridges for that type of mask. The proper cartridges have a charcoal layer inside the cartridge and a prefilter that helps stop the fumes and vapors. A full face would be better for eye protection. Be safe out there everyone.
I would add being clean shaven when wearing a mask having a beard means they don’t seal at all.
What can I cover my face with that I would have at my house?
@@cmygamelife Nothing ... We cannot buy this stuff here where I live in Africa so it is sanding for us I think.
Correct . You are right I agree
@@hendrikdebruin4012 Does H&S apply in Africa?
A couple of decades ago I had to strip a hood which was painted multiple times by a so called professional. It has so many layers of paint it actually looked like a cheap fiberglass hood.
I used the same process shown using plastic sheeting to capture the active ingredients while is worked.
The hood was stripped clean and primed, painted, cleared.
The shop manager was happy and more importantly, the customer was happy.
Back then the formula was totally different, ALL strippers are outright garbage now "by comparison". Knowing that already, my stubborn self needed to be re-convinced..
I just had a massive stripping project. I had two brands of old formula strippers in my garage. I was happy as a clam watching them turn old hard durable paint into wrinkly scrap-able goop, BUT the moment I ran out, and re-purchased the same brands in their new, tree-hugger, EPA approved, save the world formula, everything stopped - and I mean STOPPED. It was EASILY TEN times less effective - not twice less effective - TEN times, and I'm being conservative. I reapplied than reapplied until the entire can were completely gone, and it still was less effective and 2 MAX coats of the prior formula.
Genuine stripper use is absolutely over.
@@svenshanah I TOTALLY agree.... The same goes for 'Brake Cleaner'...
They've been doing the same thing to paints, stains, and thinners over the last couple of decades. All these water born oils and such 🤬
I work in a shop, we recently stripped a set of wheels with this same product. To say it works great, even on powder coating it takes a bit longer. Just don't let it dry out, the slag paint becomes harder than it was. Great stripper. Wear eye protection,gloves, and probably outside.
thank's for the tip 👌
Did you use 2k epoxy on the alloy wheels after stripping ? Or something else?
@@harshadchari6065 We coated the wheels with self etching primer, then urethane primer. Before urethane base and clear coat. Hopefully it holds up for many years. IDK it was the shop owners call on the material used.
My toxic trait is watching videos like this and thinking "He makes it look and sound so easy, I should try it!" without thinking about the 20 years of experience that went into making it look easy.. Who's with me? 🤣
Do it!!! And i only have 7 years professionally experienced haha
@@PaintSociety 7 or 20, you still make it look very easy! It is a skill I'd love to pick up though :)
same here bro,
it all looked too easy 😅
You sound like a soccer mom. "My toxic trait is" 😂
@@PaintSociety
Have you tried this product on powder coating?
All killer, no filler. Very impressive because I know that it is a lot of work to make it look easy.
Just what I needed to see to inspire me to finally strip and paint the hood of my Tahoe. Except its not a project, it's my daily. 😅 and I have always appreciated how the steps and explanations are geared towards those who are predominately do-it-yourselfers.
I have to tell you, my best friend owns a body shop and I have worked down there several times doing the mechanical and some teardown. I have learned so much more from you in watching your videos than working down there. Great channel and please keep em coming! Thanks
Brian, your simple and effective way to paint is a godsend. I have a 50's heirloom Rolls with a late 80's paint job which is flaking off and rust spots. I've been paralyzed, but no more. Thank you. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Brian! Have you ever tried Coopers Strip Club products made in New Zealand? I’m restoring a Jaguar E-type coupe, I used their system and it was terrific - I stripped the entire car to bare metal. You spray it on with just a pump sprayer, let it sit for a bit then take the paint off with steel wool and a metal blade. Nearly no oder, a lot less messy and easy clean up!
I agree …. Check out diy auto school my friend Pete !!!he highlighted the product and he is real world and knows his stuff
Stuff is awesome just takes a while to get
I love this channel, I always learn something. Brian is a great teacher, he's clear, doesn't repeat himself over and over, he gets right to the point no endless backstories, and no uhs or ums. Really wish I saw this before I painted my truck black. I'd love to see a video on buffing too.
Lovely. Prepping for a project and trying to learn ahead of the work. This was certainly above my pay grade but beautiful results. Most chemical paint removers I've seen or used can't fight their way out of a paper bag because of healthandsafety but great tip to cover. As ever, loads of great help here. Many thanks!
I’m using this 15 minute ( next to last ) wait period method on my 1977 Gold Wing air cleaner box in black restoration- tomorrow. I’m confident that it’s going to eliminate most imperfections on a complicated part. Doing two coats of satin black over etching primer that dried for 36 hours - then with a light scuff with 3M Scotchbrite… then “tack-Rag” ( The Furniture Guys reference ) before 1st topcoat. Wanting to mimic factory finish. Thanks - your channel is excellent.
I have been a mechanic for almost 30 years now. The best paint remover that I have found on the cheap is. EASY OFF oven cleaner. Get the lemon one and you have a pleasant smell to go with it LOL.. It will take paint down to bare metal in about 10 mins. It will also strip the coating off any wheels that you want to paint .
Klean Strip used to have a dry process paint stripper back in the day. It would go on wet, wrinkle and dry. You could then run a razor blade over it down to bare metal. Stripped my 65 Pontiac with one gallon!
I have to strip the paint in my 91 Firebird hood. This is exactly the video I needed!! Thank you.
I find red scotch brite pads are pretty good for the scuffing part, less chance of rub through if you have a lot of curves.
I do it the same way, but if you have no plans to paint the bottom side, I put ducktape on the edges covering 1-1 1/2 inches of the top paint. Stripper will still creep under the tape, but rarely makes it to the under side. When done cleaning up the Stripper, use a DA and sand off the remaining paint on the edge.
Glad to see you repping Eastwood's spray. Makes me feel a lot more confident using them as my trusted source. Quick tip on the 2K eastwood cans... You can freeze them overnight if you want to use them a second day. Freezing slows the reaction/cure time within the can
Something that helps make a job last is to get any redone steel down to bare metal and then once cleaned, heat it with a torch until the metal turns from dull to shiny and get all of that moisture drawn out the steel to prevent rust. While the steel is warm start spraying your primer and not only will you now not trap moisture, but it will help bake and bond the primer to the panel and help it last a decade vs. a few years.
We have a 2010 RX350 with OEM hood. Same chipping…exactly the same. This is not from rocks. I have seen many RX 350s with same chipping. Planning to repaint it myself and this video really helped. My paint is Lexus Pearl Gray/Smoky Granite Mica (1G0)
I’m not a painter nor a spray painter but I pickup a lot of different skills by watching TH-cam videos and I’m pretty good at it I did some bodywork on my 2006 Dodge Dakota truck V8 SLT and it came out pretty good for a beginner watching your videos I think I’ma paint it my self I mean what’s the worst that could happen right practice makes improvement
Brian, I'm sure you know already but it is advisable to wear your vapour respirator rather than the pancake particulate filters as they don't help against the paint stripper.
First thing I noticed... People really need to understand what the different filters are for
oh the youtube police
The magenta filters are for sanding!! Organic vapor filters should have been used .@@vector006
Great video and exactly what I needed. You started to answer the question I had, but really didn't. Where in this process would you do the bondo? Bare metal or after epoxy? I have no history with epoxy so would like to do it the best way. Thanks so much for doing these !!
Epoxy it. Filler over epoxy. Then 2k urethane surfacer primer
The system I use has a 2k etch primer you can put in the gun. I strip the paint to bare metal, sand up to 320 on a da, etch (2 coats), seal, base, clear. Works great.
what is a da?
@@zoomhuynh8400 dual action sander.
Great results! Will this stripper work to remove factory rocker guard and seam sealer and surface pitting rust?
Great instructional video, well done. I'm surprised that stripper did so well, normally that new stuff does nothing even though I do the cling wrap step as well.
Because he was stripping off an aftermarket/hood/paintjob. You are right, that stuff is worthless. It wont remove squat.
Great video, I too use that paint stripper but when I covered with plastic, it didn't pill as easy as it did for you, I had better results without. And I have better results in my paint jobs when I do a 50-50 or 75 overlap. Thanks for what you do.
Eastwood contour sct tool will definitely get the job done
I used the Ultra stripper and the other weaker version of this brand of stripper to strip my 73 van. It had 3 layers of paint and primer on it, so it had to be removed before I laid down a new custom paint job on it with European Clear Coat. I applied the stripper in sections and covered each area with plastic wrap (generic Saran Wrap). I left it on for about 20 minutes before removing the plastic wrap. It removed one layer of old paint at a time. So I had to reapply more stripper to remove each layer. I did have to mechanically remove some of the paint layers that the stripper wouldn’t lift. It’s messy and yep you need a respirator while working with it, but I prefer using it to stripping it all off by machine.
To repaint my van, I used all Eastwood products. That included their epoxy primer, high build primer, single stage white and black urethane paints, Candeez candy paints and silver base coat for candy and their High Buid European Clear Coat. I’m finishing up the paint work after working on the paint, body and metal work since 2021.
Here’s my take on Eastwood’s paint products-the primers worked fine. The single stage paints were fine either with or without clear (the van has a white base coat under the custom painted areas. It seems to be a quality paint for the price. The Candeez products are decent, though probably not as vibrant as House of Color products, but they were fine for the price. I used Urechem intercoat to apply the flake. The European Clear covers good and spreads itself out well and is crystal clear. I laid down multiple layers of it over several months. I wet sanded by hand with 400 between each coat and let each coat set up and harden for at least a week. There are probably 5 or 6 coats of clear on each area. I’m painting in my garage.
I haven’t cut and buffed any of the clear yet, but one side that I am finished with looks flat and shiny without that step, so I think it’s going to look great after that step. I’m satisfied with the Eastwood paint products given the price I paid for them. I used 3 gallons kits of the clear which made 4 1/2 gallons of sprayable clear.
I didn’t work on the van in winter, so there has been a four or five months hiatus each year which delayed the project. I’m about to finish it the paint this Fall. Next year I should be showing the van, which is called the Led Sled. It’s a tribute to Led Zeppelin.
Great video Brian! That stuff work as well as it used to, especially on catalyzed or baked enamels. I think that they may have removed some of the caustic chemicals for environmental reasons.
Bro you make magnificent videos. You are a teacher at heart. Thank you for your vids.
Thank's , I'm going to do this to my OBS 95 F 150. The hood has small crack's in the paint that I think go all the way down to the base metal. I was dreading having to sand it all the way down. Love your channel I've learned so much from you. Rob......
Thanks Paint Society, this was a very good description of the process and steps to take for a great paint job.
I used the aircraft paint remover in a spray can. That thing worked amazing on my valve cover for my Honda Civic
success depends on the paint being removed, obviously very easy on this example but that's not typical as usually end up requiring multiple attempts. In hard to reach areas it's fine but otherwise it's easier to use a stripping disc. Old paint strippers used methylene chloride, some other solvents, thickeners to keep it running off vertical surfaces and wax to reduce evaporation. How do I know, I was chemist at an industrial chemical company and we made it for various companies
I haven’t used that stuff in a while but I think it says to neutralize the acid with water afterwards, and I don’t have a problem with etch priming the whole panel, seal, base,clear in same day. I don’t use sealer and epoxy together
I thought it would have had to be neutralized also, but don't have experience with that product. Strippers I use all need to be neutralized.
@@RestoHubAU this product is a solvent. But I agree that any good base or acidic stripper would need to be neutralized, also works way better.
@@AlexKost-tq6bj cheers 👌
Thanks Brian have been useing aircraft stripper for a long time. The new formula low voc sucks compared to the go formula But I like the cover it with plastic going to have to try it on a firewall might be a little harder since its vertical 👍👍
Brian, I truly enjoy your channel and have learned a ton from you. I am a DIYer and into old 50-60’s cars. I am just starting a project of stripping the metal for rust repairs and body work. I would appreciate if you could give me your opinion on using “Klean Strip- Concrete & Metal Prep” on the bare metal after I get it stripped before It gets the epoxy primer? Are there any watch outs or other prep process that would be required if using that Metal Prep? Thanks!
Should I do this to my 1970 Eldorado? Some rust spots not many but had been repainted. Do bare-metal again and repair rust then repaint?
Lots of Great tips on this one Brian! Im going to try and start at least finishing off with a D.A. and soft pad before polishing. Thanks Brother!
You can do it!
Keep up the great work. I ALWAYS love watching your content. You keep it real and basic so that guys like me can learn easily. Cheers
I appreciate that!
Hi Brian thanks for the video! This actually motivated me to re-try painting my hood that I messed up the first time! Do you have any recommendations on a inexpensive gun that can deliver similar results to yours in this video? Also I think about enclosing a part of my workshop with plastic and plywood wood to make a "dust free" room and using to square fans with house filters one pulling and one pushing. Do you think this is a good idea for a diy spray boot? Any advice are welcome and thanks again for this amazing video! From 🇨🇦
The old aircraft stripper was awesome stuff. This new crap is expensive as hell and don't work worth a shit. The EPA made them take the good stuff out of it.
I recently tried the paint stripper, made more of a mess than anything. Followed the instructions to a tee. Did a hood hood twice and tons of paint left. Looks like the hood he stripped had one light coat so it stripped almost perfectly, setup? Going to buy a Bauer surface conditioning tool from HF.
i am in the process of restoring a 1968 dodge charger and the paint is chipped and gone to hell, it has to be taken off. would you recommend sanding it off or using a liquid remover? i am a complete beginner and have no experience, so a walkthrough on what to do and products to use would be much appreciated
Hi, that stuff works just like the aircraft stripper I was using in the 80"s except it doesn't have the additive. It was amazing how well it worked. I painted an entire car, went for supper and when I came back the paint on the vertical surfaces just fell off. no gooey mess. don't get this stuff on your skin!!
Rich
Looks really nice. How would it look color sanded with the Linear Blocking System??? I'm a professional detailer and I'm looking to pull the trigger on that. Also, how long before the paint gasses off before color sanding? Thanks for a great presentation!
Used to do it all the time. Colorado banned aircraft stripper. Now have to mechanically strip. Sucks. Good video.
Excellent video. I have the same problem on my 2010 Lexus RX 350. Looks identical with those chips. Question, did you put two sealers coats then sand the second sealer coat or did you put one sealer coat, then one base and sand the base then out one heavy base coat and one drop coat? Doing this paint job this weekend!
Absolutely love these videos love the watch and make more Sean formative…👍👍
So would you say aircraft stripper is the difference? I know the jasco vid didn't go nearly as well.
Yes
Great video. Wondering what type/brand of sealer, base and clear you used. Results were perfect.
Hey Brian, for people who can’t get their hands on a mixer and all the different colors needed. Where do you recommend getting good matching paint?
Great video...is there a chance of "warping" an older (late 60's early 70's) hood by sanding ? or is it just the newer thinner hood...
Typically for me the only times things warp is if the sander gets the metal to hot but other than that it seems to be fine with normal pressure
I would use the citrus stripper with plastic over it to prevent drying. Leave overnight then pressure wash off followed by air drying with a leaf blower and air gun for the small details. Way less toxic than the heavy duty strippers.
Nice tips and a great how to! I tried a few paint removers but they preformed horrible due to new safety laws...
Yes take your time and LET THE STRIPPER DO ALL THE WORK! LOL
I like you`re content :).
Please use propper ppe, that first mask you used with the stripper is no good for those chemicals. you should use the same filters as you used in the spray booth. Take care!
Yes. Sorry. Was waiting on my mask order to arrive from jobber
@@PaintSocietyFull face respirator ! Get one!
In Finland we got these 2k paints cans that mix as you use the spray by Maston. Unfortunately the ones I've bought have never worked properly.... I haven't read a single good review of these cans except for one guy in germany who used it and said it worked fine. But it's apparently a thing and I wished more companies would try that. I'd really like some long lasting 2k in a rattle can for small fixes.
I am a little confused whats the difference between a sealer and an epoxy primer, primer is meant to protect the metal from rust then what purpose does the sealer serve
Just curious, was it stripped because the paint on it was suspect quality? For OEM paint sanding back would be sufficient?
It was peeling. Needs to strip. Cant put paint over that
I got a question. Is mixing old paint with new a good idea? For instance, let's say you did a job with a specific paint code and years later, you have to do another job with that same paint code, but you don't have enough to do the whole job. You order more. Would it be a good idea to mix the new with the old?
Awesome video. How did you neutralize the paint remover?
This is probably an oem hood. You see this is alot in some models during some runs. They don't usually issue recalls for paint and if there are problems with the paint prep during manufacture it is not dealt with unless forced.
I was wondering what brand of paint can mixer and pourer you use for your one gallon paint cans.
Thanks
Love the video, thank you for all the knowledge shared.. Hey Brian what's the best way to strip a plastic bumper cover?
what do you guys do with all your extra paint? Do you just know how much to mix up from experience?
I don't know what kind of paint that was, but after watching a good 30 videos, we bought this stripper, Kleen Strip, 2 Minute, as well as some "Cooper's", (which is actually a bit better)..but NONE of them performed like this on 3 various years/types of paint on auto sheet metals, and 2 various furniture pieces and cabinet doors with a few layers of latexes.
This would have been great, but even after HEAVY re-application and covering it in quality plastic wrap, it was "maybe" half this good in it's very best areas.
That finish turned out great
Hi just a question what’s the best cleaning product for bare metal that gives me a day or 2 window before I lay down epoxy primer what cleans the residue of the paint stripper completely
Hello You make it easy for the do-it-yourself , By not skipping any Techniques great presentation! I'm an old school painter Have you ever hot potted synthetic enamel? Later
After doing this epoxy primer, can I allow water or rain to hit it and paint it after let's say one or two weeks?
Super Brian, very helpful video for me at this time that I am about to do paint job to an old car
The original formula worked soooo much better but the “new” formula works pretty good too.
And the dichloromethane based stuff was 1/4 the price, neither was it a fire hazard like this new stuff is.
Thank you so so much for all your content,tips and tricks.Regards from Portugal.
Hey Brian, I recently clear coated a part using the extra slow reducer. The temperature was around 70 degrees in the shop, the clear coat laid down perfectly, and looked great until about 2 hours later it began to sag very slightly in one area. No big deal, I can get it out, but Im just curious as to why this may have happened, was it due to the usage of the extra slow reducer when the temperature was not very hot? Obviously laying it down heavy on the final coat likely contributed, but would using a slightly lower temp reducer help to prevent this?
Idk this newer aircraft stripper doesnt work like it used to. I remember ooening the can to use it and any painted surface in a 20ft radius paint was curling and falling off just from the fumes that wofted around. I used the new stuff on my motorcycle to strip the paint. Even covered in plastic sheeting it didnt do anything at all.
Thank you so much for this Brian. Your videos and tips/tricks of the trade are nuggets of gold. Cheers
Nice job, Not sure I missed it but what did you wash the hood with after using the stripper?
Super Duper excited 😮 Awesome 👍🏼 thankyou for sharing. Can't wait to start on my ride on tractor cover's 👍🏼
Did you flush the panel after stripping before you started sanding?
That paint stripper is definitely NOT like the old product that used dichloromethane (aka methylene chloride). Dichloromethane is now banned in the US. Unlike the old formula, this new formula is highly flammable.
Hello Brian, really liked you video. Looking for a good method for stripping and repainting Singer Featherweight sewing machines. Will the 'Aircraft Paint Remover' work with an aluminum frame machine or will it be to harsh a product?
Wow. Excellent. Thanks for the video. Will try it on the hood of my wife's car.
That looks fantastic ! Thank you. It's great to watch a Profesional.
Wow , modern paint stripper actually working. You can still buy real paint stripper that contains methylene chloride but you need to be a business and purchase in 5 gal quantities cost is about $375 . This is the stuff you need for powder coat removal.
I'm new to all this but man you guys do an awesome job on TH-cam University gonna be re doing my 2012 suburban roof I have learned a lots from you. Thanks a lot bro's.
Awesome! Thank you!
you should make a video about how to find a good local paint shop.. can't be as simple as judging them based on price right? probably wanna ask them some questions about their process?
Would the aircraft paint remover take off bed liner on a truck, specifically Iron Armor? If you don't know that's ok too! Thanks!
The old yellow aircraft paint stripper was the best
Brian, what brand clear u using? 1.3 or 1.2 + Sagola?
Silkens. 1.2
Fantastic work, Hope mine comes out perfect
My MK2 GTI has needed a respray due to clear coat bubbling all over and ive been putting off the job of sanding it for ages. Paint stripper seems to be the move
You ever try caustic soda for paint remover? I's cheap as hell and it's insane on everything.
Hey Brian, is this method good to try out on my integra, it only has primer sealer and I painted it about 2 years ago or more now so the paint is already dusting off or would it be better to sand down since it's only a thin coat and there's body work around the car? Thanks! Great video!
Try sanding first. Unless the parts are off the car. It can get messy
After sanding, what do you recommend wiping the hood down with?
I use solvent cleaner. Prep all
Can you use this method if there’s filler that’s been used?
Thank you for your lesson and your time to do it. Im appreciate
They removed a key ingredient so it no longer works as good. Im applying the 3rd coat of gel stripper this afternoon. The base paint and clear was laid at a premium painter and its not even easy to chip, it wont chip its tough. Maybe I need to experiment with a different stripper.