The old one had chemical compounds that were much smaller with the methylene chloride so it penetrated the paint much faster and easier. The new ones simply have larger chemical compounds so they have trouble penetrating the paint and I really didn't think of scratching it up so the stripper could get into the paint, but it's actually incredibly genius of you to allow the larger molecules to get in easier. Good job!!!
I remember using the old strippers before they changed them. You would need two or three brushes because the stripper would dissolve the bristles before you were finished. The paint would wrinkle and literally fall right off before your eyes. I gave up on new strippers and bought a soda blaster instead. Its more trouble and messier but I know the job will get done.
Most modern strippers don't work that great but I agree that this particular one does do a lot better. Also I do have a tip for you as well as anyone else watching who only needs to do a single panel like this and it is a cheaper alternative. I have used this same tip many times myself and that is to give EZ OFF oven cleaner. I have removed paint from panels as well as plastic interior pieces that have a texture to them without damaging the pieces. I highly recommend covering them as you did in this video to keep it from evaporating and it is cheaper.
We used to use the old stuff on powder coat on nascar pit equipment without covering in plastic. Had no issues. Not sure why the epa needs to step in to save stupid people. Slap a warning on it and use at your own risk.
Citristrip worked great on my plastic bumper cover. Had a cheap paintjob that was starting to flake so I sprayed the whole thing down and all the paint came right off! Repainted it myself with some spray cans and it looks mint now
I’ve been using this exact stuff on my motorcycle project. I find it has almost no effect on the factory paint and on 2k paint I’ve had to do multiple applications but it seems to work eventually. The smell is horrible and I too recommend safety equipment be used and good ventilation. Good video.
I have a 69 Beetle that was repainted about 10 years ago but I can see the factory paint underneath in some already damaged spots. Would this just bring back the old factory paint with little to no harm?
When we used to strip cars in the eighties, the paint stripper manufacturer recommended the user to apply with a brush but never brush it on. The correct way is to get the tips of the bristles really wet with the stuff and stipple it on as though you are stabbing it with a knife.
I liked to use jasco paint stripper years ago it worked great but recently I got like 5 different types and none of them worked. I never had to wrap things in plastic with jasco but now the only way the crappy stripper works is multiple coats and scrapings and wrapping it in plastic. It's really frustrating that modern paint stripper sucks so bad. With the jasco I used before the paint practically jumped off without wrapping it and having to use the whole can and a bunch of effort.
I second that. I remember the days of spraying on or brushing on the stripper, watching the paint wrinkle up and fall off. Finish it with a power washer and had bare metal. Last time I tried several on my bike I painted 9 years ago and it did nothing at all. Had to gouge the paint to get any action and even then it was so minimal I wound up just wound up using an air sander and coarse sand paper to take it down
Glad to see something that is closer to the methylene chloride based strippers. Tried multiple others before all garbage!!! Definitely gonna give this a try next time. It still does not look as effective as methylene chloride, but that looks a lot better.
Depending on the paint on the panel.. Lacquer will peel off first then base would dry out the paint stripper. On high solids it works differently but similar.
Great video. Glad to see you found something new that works almost as good as the old stuff. Next time, rush in one direction, back and forth works against how the stripper works, no sure why but does, also one direction leaves it thiscker, unlike back and forth that thins it out. That’s probly why they want you to use a spreader cause you can go in one direction.
I used some of the other stripper last year on my van project. Now I have to strip the other side this year. I think I used the other product last year and plastic cellophane to cover it and keep from drying out. I am going to pick up a gallon of the Ultra tomorrow. Nice to see how well this worked with the plastic.
Try using a plastic pump spray bottle to apply the stripper. Puts it on even and thick. I find it superior to brushing which always leaving some thin spots.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Been looking for a paint remover that works like the old ones, thanks to you many of us are much more happier thanks to you and your video.
depends greatly on the paint you are trying to remove. In this case that paint was a repaint, not many layers and so not so difficult. Even that stripper would be a waste and just make a bigger mess in most cases. Many years ago I worked as a chemist at a company that supplied industrial chemicals to PPG, Dupont etc along with paint strippers. somewhere i might have the formula but was mostly methylene chloride along with some acetates, some xylene etc. and wax to reduce evaporation. Used to mix up my own concoction to take home. definitely did not want to get that stuff on your skin
That’s awesome.! Out of curiosity, could you guys by chance show us a demonstration of this product being used on different material panels now.? (Such as plastic, fiber glass etc.)
I used a indoor electric heat paint stripper on my doors guards I only used the glue as I call it for the inner doors. I felt if it doesnt burn wood and you use it on 1 you wouldnt over heat the metal and it takes it off really good and fast I used a scrapper as well as a wire brush and the metal wasnt hot.
I used Aircraft paint remover in a rattle can, to remove the old paint on my valve cover for my Honda & man that thing worked like a charm, now I use nothing but Aircraft paint remover.
@@PaintSociety Huh? It's an actual paint stripping product. Nothing nefarious here man. I really did order it and will test it on my Ranchero. See my channel, or Coopers.
Jasco is the best stripper I've ever used ,alot of the strippers don't work if your working out doors if its hot out pot shrink wrap over it to keep the heat out
I brushed my on and didn't use any plastic to cover the sections. Well at first I did. Then I tried an experiment. With out covering a section and within 20-25 minutes, the paint and vinyl lettering started to bubble and then I scrapped it off. I did a 2500 chevy van the entire thing
Nice video buddy.. I recently sprayed can paint on my car top roof and I want want to wipe off the can spray paint but I don't want the original paint to be affected..can I use this paint removal?
Can you show how you address the edges of the panel in the sanding and paint phases? Seems like you could run into some issue with peeling edges. Thanks
Well that's better than the last time still not as good as the old methylene chloride but way better than the regular replacement...cool I live in a state where I can get some thanks for doing this video!
Consumer market products are not what we use on the commercial side. If you're using a Jobber to get your product you should be fine. Also when you clean the surface, use a red scotch brite and some M.E.K it goes a long way !!! Extremely fast...
You can still buy the old stuff, Methylene Chloride or Dichloromethane. It's not very expensive either. I had a lot of wood to strip and got so fed up with the garbage they sold so I bought a gallon of it. Nice to see this stuff actually works OK though. It should be criminal to sell a lot of the stuff on the shelves these days, not only does it not work, but it ruins wood too.
@@izoyt Don't pay attention to him. Currently you can't buy the methylene chloride paint remover unless you're in business and have a tax number. Last week the EPA announced that ALL products containing methylene chloride will be banned within a year. The only exceptions are for aerospace industry, the pharmaceutical industry and the military.
I have a 1989 GMC Sierra 1500 single cab long bed. It has the typical peeling paint from that era. Wanting to strip and re-paint. How much of the stripper do you estimate it would take to accomplish the stripping?
Aerospace engineer here. This stuff used to be great, then they took MEK out of it because like anything that works really well, it gives you cancer. The new formula still works, but not NEARLY as good as the old formula. That shit was awesome.
Tried the 2 Minute stuff and aircraft stripper on a few panels for my ‘62 C10. Shook both products like I was trying to get my point across to someone who isn’t listening, and both were scuffed as well, and still didn’t blister (coated with both products twice). It was around 65F, and low humidity, so I made sure it was maintaining good contact. Any suggestions? I really was hoping this would be the fix since I’ve got a lot of area that needs stripped to bare metal to get the old rust stopped.
Temp is too low. Apply product liberally in sections you feel you can have full control over and cover with plastic wrap to retain the product, fumes, and keep product moist against the paint. Leave on longer than most say to do, some will leave the product on for hours. Some people will apply a heat gun to hard areas to have the chemical reaction happen faster/stronger as long as the plastic is not bothered. Most new products will take two coats no matter what. If I had weather control I would do it outdoors in the sun at 90 F with low humidity and put on black plastic so it stayed warm by the sun and wet and let the chemicals eat the crap out of the paint.
I can give that a whirl this weekend. We’re supposed to be in the low 80s on Saturday with lots of sun, and will see how it goes. I had high hopes of speeding up the strip process since it’s the the whole truck (a fair bit is left now). I’ll try the heat gun as well on another part while I’m waiting on it to get warmer. Really appreciate the reply!
Great video! Brian when doing a project part by part how long time (days, months) can you leave it with just the Sem self etching primer before top coats outdoors with a tarp?
I have some black dirt bike rims I need to strip to the bare aluminum, I wonder how I can get this done, the surface isn't a simple flat one that I can slap a piece of plastic on. Does this stuff really work? These are brand new rims, I can't stand black rims, want to get down to the finish before they were painted, not exactly sure what I'll find lol, hopefully just some great looking alum rims. Edit; after watching this I'm realizing that I'd be wasting my time cause the bare aluminum will not be nicely polished , it will probably be sanded down, unpolished so that they would have been able to paint it.. oh well...
I've been buying this since the EPA decided to stick their nose once again where it doesn't belong. It works really well. Actually in process of stripping a core support and fenders
My issue is a little odd. I had a small area on my cars quarter panel left rear. I had repaired a small area of scratches and my gas tank cover. I used rattle cans from automotive touch-up including 1k clear. Unfortunately I had not watched your fantastic video on doing a similar job. I didn't need to primer and all that but I also didn't clear coat the entire quarter panel I tried to blend the clear and now at the end of the blended area I have peeling. So could I lightly wet sand the whole quarter panel the M105 gently with my DA polisher 6 inch foam pad or microfiber pad with a little spray of detailer as I go checking my progress carefully.
So why did you need to strip the paint to the bare metal? I always thought that you wanted to sand to the base paint/primer so the new paint would adhere better? Did I miss a video on the explanation?
Hey guys, just a quick question if you wouldnt mind answering! I have an old golf tdi that is a bit worse for wear, i dont want to pay out thousands for a pro paint job, the car just isnt worth it, but I'm happy to do the work myself a panel at a time. What preparation of the panels would you recommend please? Thanks guys, keep up the good work and your excellent videos
Even though cars are mass produced, every car and especially it's paint has it's unique little scratches, dents, rust and so on. Therefore it is impossible to give good advice without any knowledge of the state the car is in. Brian has some really good videos, and usually explains really well, I'd advise looking through his videos a bit. Find similarities to your car, and go on accordingly. Generally speaking, on a car with factorypaint, minor scratches, a few chips from the highway: Sand with P180 to get rid of rust and even out, P240, P320, apply sealer, sand sealer with P600, P800, apply paint. For blending clearcoat go up to P1000 / P1500. While working on your car make sure not to leave bare metal or bondo out in the open too long.
@@MrDuLukes appreciate your response. I've watched alot of his videos and theyre excellent! I guess I'm more wondering if paint stripping to bare metal is worth it or if sanding will be good enough. I guess if sanding i at least need to get through the existing clear coat?
@@TheMarshole82 it depends on the condition of the paint, and what you want and need to do. Just a repaint in the same or similar colour, a bit of sanding will suffice. Repaint in a very different colour, sanding, and seal in a similar tone before painting. Getting rid of rust and dents, you'll need to sand more, primer, seal etc. You only need to go through a layer, if the coating is damaged through, like scratches, stonechips or dents. Adhesion problems of exisiting paint is always best treated to strip the entire panel off the coating that has the problems.
I’ve been using this stuff for years. Not that specific brand , but what I hate is when you apply it with a brush it tends to land all over my arm. It burns so damn bad I had to stop and put ice cold water on my arm because it felt like taking a torch to my body. Now I know to only apply small amounts and go slow lol
People stripping cars in their garage is a reason why paint strippers have become weaker. The good stuff requires you to bag it along with any materials that use it, and have it sent for proper disposal, meaning incineration to prevent contamination of landfills. DIYers and irresponsible businesses who don't follow proper procedure handling the stuff are the reason they can't get the stuff, they've no one to blame but themselves.
What’s the point of using paint stripper if your going to have to sand the metal after it would have been faster to just 80 grit with a da from the beginning
I wonder if I could use this stuff to strip my old Corvette with a Fiberglass body. Ahh.. what's the worst that could happen?... Its melting! My car is melting!
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
The old one had chemical compounds that were much smaller with the methylene chloride so it penetrated the paint much faster and easier. The new ones simply have larger chemical compounds so they have trouble penetrating the paint and I really didn't think of scratching it up so the stripper could get into the paint, but it's actually incredibly genius of you to allow the larger molecules to get in easier. Good job!!!
Most modern paint strippers just mildly annoy the paint; so its good to find one that actually works!
Thank God for the new stuff.
I didn't want to sand 5 coats of paint of 69 mustang .
Thank you
I remember using the old strippers before they changed them. You would need two or three brushes because the stripper would dissolve the bristles before you were finished. The paint would wrinkle and literally fall right off before your eyes. I gave up on new strippers and bought a soda blaster instead. Its more trouble and messier but I know the job will get done.
Most modern strippers don't work that great but I agree that this particular one does do a lot better. Also I do have a tip for you as well as anyone else watching who only needs to do a single panel like this and it is a cheaper alternative. I have used this same tip many times myself and that is to give EZ OFF oven cleaner. I have removed paint from panels as well as plastic interior pieces that have a texture to them without damaging the pieces. I highly recommend covering them as you did in this video to keep it from evaporating and it is cheaper.
We used to use the old stuff on powder coat on nascar pit equipment without covering in plastic. Had no issues. Not sure why the epa needs to step in to save stupid people. Slap a warning on it and use at your own risk.
Citristrip worked great on my plastic bumper cover. Had a cheap paintjob that was starting to flake so I sprayed the whole thing down and all the paint came right off! Repainted it myself with some spray cans and it looks mint now
Yea, before the reformulation in 2020, you're spreading misleading information.
I’ve been using this exact stuff on my motorcycle project. I find it has almost no effect on the factory paint and on 2k paint I’ve had to do multiple applications but it seems to work eventually. The smell is horrible and I too recommend safety equipment be used and good ventilation. Good video.
Current paint stripper is absolute garbage.
I have a 69 Beetle that was repainted about 10 years ago but I can see the factory paint underneath in some already damaged spots. Would this just bring back the old factory paint with little to no harm?
When we used to strip cars in the eighties, the paint stripper manufacturer recommended the user to apply with a brush but never brush it on. The correct way is to get the tips of the bristles really wet with the stuff and stipple it on as though you are stabbing it with a knife.
Wow that’s a great idea !
Excellent lesson....maybe I will get my truck done now thanks to the new paint stripper. Thanks guys
I liked to use jasco paint stripper years ago it worked great but recently I got like 5 different types and none of them worked. I never had to wrap things in plastic with jasco but now the only way the crappy stripper works is multiple coats and scrapings and wrapping it in plastic. It's really frustrating that modern paint stripper sucks so bad. With the jasco I used before the paint practically jumped off without wrapping it and having to use the whole can and a bunch of effort.
I second that. I remember the days of spraying on or brushing on the stripper, watching the paint wrinkle up and fall off. Finish it with a power washer and had bare metal. Last time I tried several on my bike I painted 9 years ago and it did nothing at all. Had to gouge the paint to get any action and even then it was so minimal I wound up just wound up using an air sander and coarse sand paper to take it down
I remember at times it used to work too good haha
Glad to see something that is closer to the methylene chloride based strippers. Tried multiple others before all garbage!!! Definitely gonna give this a try next time. It still does not look as effective as methylene chloride, but that looks a lot better.
Depending on the paint on the panel.. Lacquer will peel off first then base would dry out the paint stripper. On high solids it works differently but similar.
Wow. Never knew putting plastic on made such a difference. I will start doing that. Keep the great videos up 💪💪
Great video. Glad to see you found something new that works almost as good as the old stuff. Next time, rush in one direction, back and forth works against how the stripper works, no sure why but does, also one direction leaves it thiscker, unlike back and forth that thins it out. That’s probly why they want you to use a spreader cause you can go in one direction.
You mean, somone actually radically changed their formulation to be effective.... there was none that worked post and MC/NMP bans.
I used some of the other stripper last year on my van project. Now I have to strip the other side this year. I think I used the other product last year and plastic cellophane to cover it and keep from drying out. I am going to pick up a gallon of the Ultra tomorrow. Nice to see how well this worked with the plastic.
Try using a plastic pump spray bottle to apply the stripper. Puts it on even and thick. I find it superior to brushing which always leaving some thin spots.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Been looking for a paint remover that works like the old ones, thanks to you many of us are much more happier thanks to you and your video.
depends greatly on the paint you are trying to remove. In this case that paint was a repaint, not many layers and so not so difficult. Even that stripper would be a waste and just make a bigger mess in most cases. Many years ago I worked as a chemist at a company that supplied industrial chemicals to PPG, Dupont etc along with paint strippers. somewhere i might have the formula but was mostly methylene chloride along with some acetates, some xylene etc. and wax to reduce evaporation. Used to mix up my own concoction to take home. definitely did not want to get that stuff on your skin
Thanks for reviewing that product Brian I miss the old stripper now I have confidence that this product will at least get the job done ✅
Brian, Thank you again for your awesome reviews and knowledge.
That’s awesome.! Out of curiosity, could you guys by chance show us a demonstration of this product being used on different material panels now.? (Such as plastic, fiber glass etc.)
That stuff worked great, project looking good and standing by for the next episode Brian.
I used a indoor electric heat paint stripper on my doors guards I only used the glue as I call it for the inner doors. I felt if it doesnt burn wood and you use it on 1 you wouldnt over heat the metal and it takes it off really good and fast I used a scrapper as well as a wire brush and the metal wasnt hot.
Another great video, found this channel last week and have been obsessed with it ever since!
Welcome!
I used Aircraft paint remover in a rattle can, to remove the old paint on my valve cover for my Honda & man that thing worked like a charm, now I use nothing but Aircraft paint remover.
Try coopers stripper. No sanding and doesn’t smell. I use it all the time and love it. Strips down to straight metal
I just ordered Cooper's Strip Club. Should be here next week all the way from NZ. Gonna strip the Ranchero.
Alot of my elementary students do
Watch my channel and read comments so
I’m going to Politely hide this comment
@@PaintSociety Huh? It's an actual paint stripping product. Nothing nefarious here man. I really did order it and will test it on my Ranchero. See my channel, or Coopers.
Well then that’s pretty funny. My apologies
Thanks for sharing glad there's something that work like the old stuff I will be buying it 👍🏿
Jasco is the best stripper I've ever used ,alot of the strippers don't work if your working out doors if its hot out pot shrink wrap over it to keep the heat out
This stuff works, but you have to put it on thick. The vapor is horrible. Do this with plenty of ventilation. It seems to get thru the respirator too.
I brushed my on and didn't use any plastic to cover the sections. Well at first I did. Then I tried an experiment. With out covering a section and within 20-25 minutes, the paint and vinyl lettering started to bubble and then I scrapped it off. I did a 2500 chevy van the entire thing
Great results for sure!!
Klean strip please get us something we can use in California! Save us!!!! Lol
The only thing that can save your state is republican politicians. Democrats have destroyed California.
Nice video buddy.. I recently sprayed can paint on my car top roof and I want want to wipe off the can spray paint but I don't want the original paint to be affected..can I use this paint removal?
Nice Donut media shirt Jeremy 🤟 good content guys.
I have 3 Minneapolis Moline tractors from 1960. Given they probably have lead paint would you use the old style stripper on them?
The Ultra does pretty welll
We use turgo strip here in nz it's great stuff. You Americans seem to only be able to get the rubbish stuff
I would be interested in seeing a review on Cooper's paint stripper.
Can you show how you address the edges of the panel in the sanding and paint phases? Seems like you could run into some issue with peeling edges. Thanks
Well that's better than the last time still not as good as the old methylene chloride but way better than the regular replacement...cool I live in a state where I can get some thanks for doing this video!
Always heard that you shouldn't apply bondo over self etching primer. But you can apply bondo over 2k primer
Consumer market products are not what we use on the commercial side. If you're using a Jobber to get your product you should be fine. Also when you clean the surface, use a red scotch brite and some M.E.K it goes a long way !!! Extremely fast...
Pro tip if you can smell it through the respirator... its the wrong kind of respirator....
What did you use to remove the paint stripper residue before you started sanding with 80 grit?
It's called pre painting prep by Eastwood.
@@lvlikeyV interesting. Do you know if non chlorinated brake cleaner will suffice?
@@charlietango6546 not a clue. Just recognized the can. Stuff works very well.
You can still buy the old stuff, Methylene Chloride or Dichloromethane. It's not very expensive either. I had a lot of wood to strip and got so fed up with the garbage they sold so I bought a gallon of it. Nice to see this stuff actually works OK though. It should be criminal to sell a lot of the stuff on the shelves these days, not only does it not work, but it ruins wood too.
where?
@@izoyt Don't pay attention to him. Currently you can't buy the methylene chloride paint remover unless you're in business and have a tax number. Last week the EPA announced that ALL products containing methylene chloride will be banned within a year. The only exceptions are for aerospace industry, the pharmaceutical industry and the military.
If you use a blade to scrape instead of the plastic knife you will remove alot more even if its not wrinkled cause its soft.
LOVE YOU MY SIR.
Can you pressure wash off the bubbled paint instead of scraping it?
“Don’t overthink it, it’s just paint” in this video we’ll show you the 138 steps for this simple procedure
Hi thank you for your comment. I am sorry we don’t understand your comment as there are fewer then 138 steps.
I have a 1989 GMC Sierra 1500 single cab long bed. It has the typical peeling paint from that era. Wanting to strip and re-paint. How much of the stripper do you estimate it would take to accomplish the stripping?
Is it a good idea to use paint remover on entire vehicle?
Will this work on powder coat?
Aerospace engineer here. This stuff used to be great, then they took MEK out of it because like anything that works really well, it gives you cancer. The new formula still works, but not NEARLY as good as the old formula. That shit was awesome.
Do you use wash primer on a bare metal? And after that high build primer. Then sand it with 800 grit and you are ready to with base
Nice 👍
Tried the 2 Minute stuff and aircraft stripper on a few panels for my ‘62 C10. Shook both products like I was trying to get my point across to someone who isn’t listening, and both were scuffed as well, and still didn’t blister (coated with both products twice). It was around 65F, and low humidity, so I made sure it was maintaining good contact. Any suggestions? I really was hoping this would be the fix since I’ve got a lot of area that needs stripped to bare metal to get the old rust stopped.
Temp is too low. Apply product liberally in sections you feel you can have full control over and cover with plastic wrap to retain the product, fumes, and keep product moist against the paint. Leave on longer than most say to do, some will leave the product on for hours. Some people will apply a heat gun to hard areas to have the chemical reaction happen faster/stronger as long as the plastic is not bothered. Most new products will take two coats no matter what.
If I had weather control I would do it outdoors in the sun at 90 F with low humidity and put on black plastic so it stayed warm by the sun and wet and let the chemicals eat the crap out of the paint.
I can give that a whirl this weekend. We’re supposed to be in the low 80s on Saturday with lots of sun, and will see how it goes. I had high hopes of speeding up the strip process since it’s the the whole truck (a fair bit is left now). I’ll try the heat gun as well on another part while I’m waiting on it to get warmer. Really appreciate the reply!
I used the old stuff, that dang stuff may be a little better
Great video!
Brian when doing a project part by part how long time (days, months) can you leave it with just the Sem self etching primer before top coats outdoors with a tarp?
I have some black dirt bike rims I need to strip
to the bare aluminum, I wonder how I can get this
done, the surface isn't a simple flat one that I can
slap a piece of plastic on. Does this stuff really
work? These are brand new rims, I can't stand
black rims, want to get down to the finish before
they were painted, not exactly sure what I'll
find lol, hopefully just some great looking
alum rims. Edit; after watching this I'm realizing
that I'd be wasting my time cause the bare
aluminum will not be nicely polished , it will
probably be sanded down, unpolished so that they
would have been able to paint it.. oh well...
Hey Brian, for how long can the self etching be left after spraying ?
And do you scuff it to spray 2k primer or just clean it?
Thanks!
Did you use anything to neutralize the fender after you scrapped the paint off?
I've been buying this since the EPA decided to stick their nose once again where it doesn't belong. It works really well. Actually in process of stripping a core support and fenders
try some Eldorado Chemical (PPG Aerospace) EDPR-2002. You will never miss metylene chlorode again!
My issue is a little odd. I had a small area on my cars quarter panel left rear. I had repaired a small area of scratches and my gas tank cover. I used rattle cans from automotive touch-up including 1k clear. Unfortunately I had not watched your fantastic video on doing a similar job. I didn't need to primer and all that but I also didn't clear coat the entire quarter panel I tried to blend the clear and now at the end of the blended area I have peeling. So could I lightly wet sand the whole quarter panel the M105 gently with my DA polisher 6 inch foam pad or microfiber pad with a little spray of detailer as I go checking my progress carefully.
I'm kinda curious if this Is more cost efficient than sanding paper to get to bare metal
I've stripped hoods of older Cadillac Fleetwoods in the time you wait for that shit to start even working
Yeah that would work to see if it works if not I guess going with the flake ha thank you for comment back you have a new sub
So why did you need to strip the paint to the bare metal? I always thought that you wanted to sand to the base paint/primer so the new paint would adhere better? Did I miss a video on the explanation?
Stripping to bare metal and adding that tooth with a lower grit will allow epoxy primer to really bite down and seal the metal from any corrosion.
Hey guys, just a quick question if you wouldnt mind answering! I have an old golf tdi that is a bit worse for wear, i dont want to pay out thousands for a pro paint job, the car just isnt worth it, but I'm happy to do the work myself a panel at a time. What preparation of the panels would you recommend please? Thanks guys, keep up the good work and your excellent videos
Even though cars are mass produced, every car and especially it's paint has it's unique little scratches, dents, rust and so on. Therefore it is impossible to give good advice without any knowledge of the state the car is in.
Brian has some really good videos, and usually explains really well, I'd advise looking through his videos a bit. Find similarities to your car, and go on accordingly.
Generally speaking, on a car with factorypaint, minor scratches, a few chips from the highway:
Sand with P180 to get rid of rust and even out, P240, P320, apply sealer, sand sealer with P600, P800, apply paint.
For blending clearcoat go up to P1000 / P1500.
While working on your car make sure not to leave bare metal or bondo out in the open too long.
@@MrDuLukes appreciate your response. I've watched alot of his videos and theyre excellent! I guess I'm more wondering if paint stripping to bare metal is worth it or if sanding will be good enough. I guess if sanding i at least need to get through the existing clear coat?
@@TheMarshole82 it depends on the condition of the paint, and what you want and need to do.
Just a repaint in the same or similar colour, a bit of sanding will suffice.
Repaint in a very different colour, sanding, and seal in a similar tone before painting.
Getting rid of rust and dents, you'll need to sand more, primer, seal etc.
You only need to go through a layer, if the coating is damaged through, like scratches, stonechips or dents.
Adhesion problems of exisiting paint is always best treated to strip the entire panel off the coating that has the problems.
Almost $100 a gallon?!?!?!?!?! Jeez! I'll just keep adding Methylene Chloride to cheap paint stripper!
Wondering of this stuff plays nice with plastic bumpers and mirrors.
Can't get the Klean-Strip Ultra here in Maryland. I miss the old Rustoleum stuff. Always worked best for me.
Try EZ OFF oven cleaner in dollar stores.
@@pagansunburn470 i know that works as a degreaser, never knew it to strip paint.
I wish it was cheaper...
I'm sold 🙂
80 grit removes paint but leaves somewhat deep scratches
What do you recommend on removing rocker gaurd spray
how well does it work on single stage, from the 70s?
How many gallons would it take to do an entire car?
Will this Stripper work on Plastic Bumper covers?
Wish we could buy this one in Michigan only get the 2000 formula and not the 4000
Where can I get some of that masking paper?. It looks tough!!
What plastic wrap is used here? Im struggling trying to use some wrap i have and is not that good.
Citristrip works but it takes 8-12 hours
Was that factory paint other than the repaired area?
Did you clean the panel with anything before you started sanding to get the chemicals off of there?
I didn’t
@@PaintSociety OK thanks. Does it just evaporate?
I didn't think you could epoxy prime over etch? Newbie question
what kind of ventilation do you have in that room there?
I’ve been using this stuff for years. Not that specific brand , but what I hate is when you apply it with a brush it tends to land all over my arm. It burns so damn bad I had to stop and put ice cold water on my arm because it felt like taking a torch to my body. Now I know to only apply small amounts and go slow lol
only stuff my friend who paints airplanes said works, is called Turco..
People stripping cars in their garage is a reason why paint strippers have become weaker. The good stuff requires you to bag it along with any materials that use it, and have it sent for proper disposal, meaning incineration to prevent contamination of landfills. DIYers and irresponsible businesses who don't follow proper procedure handling the stuff are the reason they can't get the stuff, they've no one to blame but themselves.
Nah. It is an overbearing government.
@@brianwilliamsonbw7 Yea, stupid government that won't let me wash toxic paint stripper down the drain.
What’s the point of using paint stripper if your going to have to sand the metal after it would have been faster to just 80 grit with a da from the beginning
"With a better stripper there's gonna be an added cost." iykwim.
I wonder if I could use this stuff to strip my old Corvette with a Fiberglass body. Ahh.. what's the worst that could happen?... Its melting! My car is melting!
Thanks for great video guys.Can I ask if it's safe to apply 2k products over the 1k etch primer.
Yes works fine
@@bstevermer9293 Thanks mate.
Unfortunately, we can't get it here in California 🤨
The panel didn't look terrible to begin with, why didn't you just scuff with the red scuff pad and then spray your new coat?
Dead paint
What would you charge for a job like that?
What is the recommended neutralizer for the stripper
Yes , please advise us. 🙏