Years ago after doing it the right way and realizing how hard it was : when it happened again on my old car, I never had anything other, and it only had to last another year or two, I glued the old cracked rubber using bicycle patches, very carefully cut to take the bends on the rubber, cleaning it, sanding it. It lasted long enough and kept the dirt out . I felt I had completely cheated on all mechanical principles but I was not a mechanic. Now I see a video like this and am amazed.
I just did mine today using this split boot. Worked like a charm and is the way to go if your axel is still good. My shop wanted $700 to replace the whole axel and, after buying a couple of tools I managed to keep the cost well under $80. I cannot stress out enough how important is to preserve the lip of the original boot that goes towards the transmission in place if you’re replacing that one. Cut out the old boot around the edge without removing the original strap. Once the old boot is out, then cut out the old strap away (ask me how I know). That end of the axel is oddly shaped in my car (2007 A4) and you need the original boot’s end because it matches the contour of the part and will give you a nice flat round shape to slide in your new boot into. If you don’t use it, the grease will leak out and water will get inside. IT IS VERY CRITICAL not to install the split boot directly to the axel end side.
Thanks. I definitely need this fix since I don't have time or tools now to take out my old axle (which appears in good condition). It will at least buy me a year (maybe more) til I can rebuild the axles,
Merci beaucoup , Nice and clear images no disturbing crazy music, I really enjoyed Watching you Sharing your Time and knowledges. Sylvain from Bécancour Québec Canada.
Thanks, great video. I realize it was hard to do and do the video and it was a bit irksome , lol, but a great deal easier than removing the bearing and all without ruining them.
fabulous explanation, love the way you explain in detail whats needed and even give advice regarding sharp edges etc. will definitely be giving this a go with my beemer. Nice to have a simple video with no silly music or people trying to act when its not necessary. definitely the clearest explanation I have seen yet. Thank you so much, Ian. (UK)
Great advice I got once. Sqeeze the grease into the boot. Rub just enough to cover on the metal. As soon as you drive the grease gets sqeezed into the cv. Less mess. Great video.
It helps to glue little sections at a time and hold tight to glue it perfect. Better to fold tabs with flathead screw driver and press on the locked staps with a wide mouth grip pliers or punch chisel.
Good stuff, thanks for the video mate. Will try that soon on my 2005 Touareg. Just a thought... would it have been easier to first apply the grease, then put the boot in place including over the inner and outer flanges, and then glue it together possibly supported by a flexible something. That might avoid the trouble of having to pull that stiff boot over the ends and risk splitting it at the seam? BTW the ebay links below do not appear to take you to this product that you used, it seems to be something else? Wonder where to buy or source this.
My experience with split cv boots have not been good. IMHO they are a temporary solution. This is true especially in areas with heavy snow and road salt use. I tie two zip ties in the middle for added strength because that glue really does not hold up to weather conditions
I put the glue on the boot AFTER i had the boot over the axle shaft. The halves of the boot do not magically line up, so manipulating is necessary. It seemed to hold, I don't remember how long it lasted. I did like the metal clamp boot better as it seemed more secure.
The Dorman split CV boot kit, uses a half-dozen little bolts and nuts INSTEAD of the glue idea. This seems more reliable to me because the constant flexing of the CV joint is sure to weaken a glued seam over time.
@@kennztube There is a Dorman brand on Amazon that uses simple loctite super glue, not any type of volcanizing solution. I guess the take-away is make sure you know what you're ordering.
@@dr.emilschaffhausen4683 Sorry for the last reply it didn’t work for me was liking about an inch to wrap around the biggest part of the CV shaft on a Chevy pickup
I'm a mechanic and would love these to work, it's worth a try but just how strong is that glue. These rubbers have to flex and stretch on on every turn, it would have been good to see a follow up after a few days drive.
Its not glue but vulcanising solution if im correct, it melts a little of each side of the boot and welds them together like a bicycle repair which can hold forty psi pressure.
This seems to be a very good way to repair, but what is the hold over time, after a year of use?? I have some doubts about the strength of the bonding, especially if a little bit grease has touched the glued part ??
I just sold the car and it was still going strong. Even if it split again it was a good quick cheep way to get the car to pass rego check, I would do this again each year for inspection rather than pull the entire thing apart. Saying that it seemed to be holding up. Way better than I expected
As a Subaru owner I have tried the split boots a few times, Subaru front axile boots never seemed to last a long time. A complete waste of time for me. They could not handle the job. Be interesting to survey people's success with split boot repairs. I just had to pony up the $ to do it right. BTW: cheap after market axiles are a gamble to.
Interesting. I had good success until I sold the car. And would use again. Especially as I had 2 day to get the job done before my car was out of the road unregistered. For me it was great as it was a quick fix to keep the car registered and in the road after getting the old one flagged in rego check.
Hi, good day, your post is really of great help, can you possibly provide us the link where to buy this stuff, I need it for Ford ecosport, thanks a lot.
used this before they are good but in time the outer side will slide off with all that grease on the cv joint ledge where you fitted the retaier clip ,you should avoid getting grease on the edge of the cv joint for a dry fit !!
@@rudeboz5486 thanks man. Did one side today. I ended up using the straps you use on intake hoses and stuff. The one that gets tightened with a flathead. The strap thst comes with it is pretty garbage. Let's see how it holds up. How long has yours held up?
You should have dry fitted everything 1st to ensure all is fitting correctly BEFORE you actually fit it. Also, don't glue it all at once, 1-2cm sections as you get better sealing.
I replaced mine today, it worked fine. Let us see how long it lasts. If it doesn't last long, i will just buy another, only took 30mins. but it should last years.
How much time will the glue wait before setting up while you are trying to put the boot on the wrong way till you figure it out. Just asking for a friend that has had bad experience with quick setting glue.
I didn’t have that much time. I suggest doing a dry fitting before you glue it up then you know which way it all needs to go before you ad the glue. Make sure you hold it firm till it sets
I got it from my local parts shop. But have seen them on eBay Australia. You can probably find them on ebay in other places I would start looking there
Try searching universal. The one I used was not for a specific model. They just make them is different sises and you chose the one that fits. Search universal cv boot. www.ebay.com.au/itm/186057411747?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=jgxwnbyvqri&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5G_JxmiER7-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
It’s universal. They are called split Universal CV Boot www.ebay.com.au/itm/314854047064?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=_3zqslhaq8i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5G_JxmiER7-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Don't get the CV slit boots with the glue, get the ones with the screws and nuts (speedi-boot). The glue never cures because the boot seal doesn't create an "absence of air environment" for the adhesive. With the speedi-boot (with screw and nuts) and just add 242 Loctite thread-locker and you're good to go, and the nuts will never back out.
Glue comes with the rubber boot in a kit. Specially designed for doing this. it was all written in a language I could not read this is not a normal cv boot that I cut that will not work it is a special split boot
@@arthurlastname974 I use a product called shoe goo www.theathletesfoot.com.au/sof-sole-shoe-goo-clear-110mls-tube.html?ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIuMfV4OXX9AIV7ZpmAh2nnQnpEAQYASABEgLGKvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!6457!3!43290374124!!!g!52230535963!&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuMfV4OXX9AIV7ZpmAh2nnQnpEAQYASABEgLGKvD_BwE
![CV boot replacement [AUTODOC TUTORIAL]](/img/n.gif)
So glad that I found your video. I had no idea they made a split boot to reduce all of the tearing down of the CV. Very good demonstration.
From my experience it worked great. As you said a real time saver
Years ago after doing it the right way and realizing how hard it was : when it happened again on my old car, I never had anything other, and it only had to last another year or two, I glued the old cracked rubber using bicycle patches, very carefully cut to take the bends on the rubber, cleaning it, sanding it. It lasted long enough and kept the dirt out . I felt I had completely cheated on all mechanical principles but I was not a mechanic. Now I see a video like this and am amazed.
Wow love the idea of the repair with bike patches. Very clever thanks for the comment.
Really helpful, well filmed video and your attitude is so great and positive!
Great video just bought range rover sport thought all was having to come off saved me a small fortune thanks from UK 🇬🇧 👍🏻
this is the best and easiest cv boot replace i've seen,
makes work eassier and less time consuming,
thanks for sharing sir
The BEST video, yet! Thank you, so much!
About time they came up with the split boot. Good job.
Excellent video! I didn't know split gaiters existed.
I just did mine today using this split boot. Worked like a charm and is the way to go if your axel is still good. My shop wanted $700 to replace the whole axel and, after buying a couple of tools I managed to keep the cost well under $80. I cannot stress out enough how important is to preserve the lip of the original boot that goes towards the transmission in place if you’re replacing that one. Cut out the old boot around the edge without removing the original strap. Once the old boot is out, then cut out the old strap away (ask me how I know). That end of the axel is oddly shaped in my car (2007 A4) and you need the original boot’s end because it matches the contour of the part and will give you a nice flat round shape to slide in your new boot into. If you don’t use it, the grease will leak out and water will get inside. IT IS VERY CRITICAL not to install the split boot directly to the axel end side.
A year later is it still in place?
Brief & informative, links to the products used in the video will be very helpful to viewers.
Thanks. I definitely need this fix since I don't have time or tools now to take out my old axle (which appears in good condition). It will at least buy me a year (maybe more) til I can rebuild the axles,
I noticed that the join was coming apart at the small end as the boot was being pushed over the grommet. Odd that this was not mentioned.
yeah, feel it would work better if the grommet was added before the glue
Thx a lot for this useful lesson. This method can really help to make repair easy....
Top video! Makes the job a doddle these split CV boots
Merci beaucoup , Nice and clear images no disturbing crazy music, I really enjoyed Watching you Sharing your Time and knowledges. Sylvain from Bécancour Québec Canada.
Thanks, great video. I realize it was hard to do and do the video and it was a bit irksome , lol, but a great deal easier than removing the bearing and all without ruining them.
Excellent. Thanks for this mate.
Great video, perfect camera angles. 👍👍
Thanks 😊
fabulous explanation, love the way you explain in detail whats needed and even give advice regarding sharp edges etc. will definitely be giving this a go with my beemer. Nice to have a simple video with no silly music or people trying to act when its not necessary. definitely the clearest explanation I have seen yet. Thank you so much, Ian. (UK)
Thanks for the feedback
Great advice I got once. Sqeeze the grease into the boot. Rub just enough to cover on the metal. As soon as you drive the grease gets sqeezed into the cv. Less mess. Great video.
Thanks. I was super happy with how this performed. It got me out of trouble quick.
Nice! I just hope we have that kind of boot here in the Philippines.
Thats genius idea quick and less work great video
Dude, could you possibly send the link this kit?
aliexpress
I put one of these on my 4 wheeler, They are great! I Put Seal all down the length of the seam just in case.
Still working!
Excellent detailed video, a link to the kit for us Aussies would also be helpful.
I just bought it from the parts shop
At j&c hill
www.truelocal.com.au/business/j-and-c-hill-mechanical-repairs/cooranbong
BTW... Great vid on the clamps.... Great job
It helps to glue little sections at a time and hold tight to glue it perfect. Better to fold tabs with flathead screw driver and press on the locked staps with a wide mouth grip pliers or punch chisel.
Great job thxs for sharing👍
I worries it saves a bit of time
Oye
¿Dónde se puede adquirir?
Gracias anticipadas!
Great video
Thanks from Belgium Europe
No worries
Good hint, thanks
Good job
Good Info Sir
Good stuff, thanks for the video mate. Will try that soon on my 2005 Touareg. Just a thought... would it have been easier to first apply the grease, then put the boot in place including over the inner and outer flanges, and then glue it together possibly supported by a flexible something. That might avoid the trouble of having to pull that stiff boot over the ends and risk splitting it at the seam?
BTW the ebay links below do not appear to take you to this product that you used, it seems to be something else?
Wonder where to buy or source this.
I would be scared I'd contaminate the mating surface with grease..
Great, thanks a lot for showing me remedy for my Toyota Etios. God bless you 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏.
Happy to help
@@blackllama1 Take care God bless you forever 🙏🙏🙏.
My experience with split cv boots have not been good. IMHO they are a temporary solution. This is true especially in areas with heavy snow and road salt use. I tie two zip ties in the middle for added strength because that glue really does not hold up to weather conditions
I put the glue on the boot AFTER i had the boot over the axle shaft. The halves of the boot do not magically line up, so manipulating is necessary. It seemed to hold, I don't remember how long it lasted. I did like the metal clamp boot better as it seemed more secure.
Yes if doing it not on camera I would probably do that also.
But it was to hard to film that way.
Thanks for the comment
As a final step I would suggest putting a few intermittent dabs of epoxy or JB Plastic Weld on the glued areas.
The Dorman split CV boot kit, uses a half-dozen little bolts and nuts INSTEAD of the glue idea. This seems more reliable to me because the constant flexing of the CV joint is sure to weaken a glued seam over time.
It's not glue, it's volcanizing solution which melts and welds the edges together, it ends like one piece and is as strong .
@@kennztube There is a Dorman brand on Amazon that uses simple loctite super glue, not any type of volcanizing solution. I guess the take-away is make sure you know what you're ordering.
@@dr.emilschaffhausen4683 I just bought that same one at Oreilly auto parts I hope it works
@@leroybailey423 Hopefully! Let us know.
@@dr.emilschaffhausen4683 Sorry for the last reply it didn’t work for me was liking about an inch to wrap around the biggest part of the CV shaft on a Chevy pickup
I'm a mechanic and would love these to work, it's worth a try but just how strong is that glue. These rubbers have to flex and stretch on on every turn, it would have been good to see a follow up after a few days drive.
Sold the car after 6 months with the boot still going strong.
Its not glue but vulcanising solution if im correct, it melts a little of each side of the boot and welds them together like a bicycle repair which can hold forty psi pressure.
Dankeschön !
gooooood video you are salving a lot of money
AND headache!
This seems to be a very good way to repair, but what is the hold over time, after a year of use?? I have some doubts about the strength of the bonding, especially if a little bit grease has touched the glued part ??
I just sold the car and it was still going strong. Even if it split again it was a good quick cheep way to get the car to pass rego check, I would do this again each year for inspection rather than pull the entire thing apart. Saying that it seemed to be holding up.
Way better than I expected
@@blackllama1 Yes, obviously you are right because even if it had to be started again after a while, it wouldn't be very serious...
Brother where you buying
That's great!! Thank You, that's for me!
Your welcome I’m glad you found the video usefull
hi where i can buy thanks
As a Subaru owner I have tried the split boots a few times, Subaru front axile boots never seemed to last a long time. A complete waste of time for me. They could not handle the job. Be interesting to survey people's success with split boot repairs. I just had to pony up the $ to do it right. BTW: cheap after market axiles are a gamble to.
Interesting. I had good success until I sold the car. And would use again.
Especially as I had 2 day to get the job done before my car was out of the road unregistered.
For me it was great as it was a quick fix to keep the car registered and in the road after getting the old one flagged in rego check.
Hi, good day, your post is really of great help, can you possibly provide us the link where to buy this stuff, I need it for Ford ecosport, thanks a lot.
Hey I purchased from my local parts shop, no link it’s a desk you walk in and order from.
I suggest you do a search on eBay.
What about the reliability? Glue in contact with oil lubrication doesn't seem like a good combination to me.
Mantab mr.semoga di indonesia ada yg produksi
I hope that you can find one there also.
That little black grommet supplied in the kit is does that need to be used,as the boot it self looks tight enough to secure ti the shaft
It depends on the size of your shaft. It’s a universal kit
Poydi ba pang multicab CV boot rubber yan sukat ba kahit multicab
Where did you buy?
Thanks for video.
So..... How long did it last?
Sold the car a few months back with it still going strong
used this before they are good but in time the outer side will slide off with all that grease on the cv joint ledge where you fitted the retaier clip ,you should avoid getting grease on the edge of the cv joint for a dry fit !!
Doing mine tomarrow. Any tips to make sure it lasts long?
@@Primer9 make sure that you have a good clean surface to put in glue and make sure boot is not stressed on lock from left to right 👍
@@rudeboz5486 thanks man. Did one side today. I ended up using the straps you use on intake hoses and stuff. The one that gets tightened with a flathead. The strap thst comes with it is pretty garbage. Let's see how it holds up. How long has yours held up?
@@Primer9 as far as I'm know it's still good 4 years yes clamps are shit
I always glue it first right out of the box
Great video mate.Where can I buy one for my pajero?
I would try looking on ebay
thank very moch
Why didn't you put grease back on it ?
Great
You should have dry fitted everything 1st to ensure all is fitting correctly BEFORE you actually fit it.
Also, don't glue it all at once, 1-2cm sections as you get better sealing.
Ok, so you have used this?
Put the split boot on the axel before you add glue!
That was my plan but it was to hard to film. I could t get the camera and me arms in properly to do it easily.
great where do you get them????
I got mine through my local parts shop but I have seen them on ebay.
Search universal split cv boot
bri yiu didnt tighten the rings right
AMEN
I replaced mine today, it worked fine. Let us see how long it lasts. If it doesn't last long, i will just buy another, only took 30mins. but it should last years.
Is it still good
@@popsbmw yes
@@christianlords1340 thanks just some one on my discovery that glued is strong
How'd the boot go?
@@clintbarna8341 boot is still going strong
I understand the glue actually fuses the two plastic faces together but I just don't see it holding up to high speeds and or sub zero temperatures.
who sells them?
How much time will the glue wait before setting up while you are trying to put the boot on the wrong way till you figure it out.
Just asking for a friend that has had bad experience with quick setting glue.
I didn’t have that much time. I suggest doing a dry fitting before you glue it up then you know which way it all needs to go before you ad the glue. Make sure you hold it firm till it sets
Crazy boy!
where my order that rubber booth?
No contact cement on split ?
I used the glue provided with the kit
Where can I buy one for my subaru impreza 2008 ? a split cv rubber boot
Look on eBay you should be able to find them. Or go talk to your local parts shop. Repco, bursons ect
where did you get ti from? i am also from uk
I got it from my local parts shop. But have seen them on eBay Australia. You can probably find them on ebay in other places I would start looking there
Could you use brake fluid cleaner and then blast it with air to clean it well.?
Brake parts cleaner might degrade rubber, maybe MAF sensor cleaner ?
best way is to add silicon gasket on it just to strengten the seal
Bs
Is ot applicable or fits for any kind of cars.?
They come is different sises depending on the car you have.
istimewa.jadi mudah.khususnya untuk mobil mercedes bend.harganya berapa ya.siapa tau bs kirim ke indonesia
Where did you buy this ??? Please
I purchased my one from my local parts shop. I have see. Then on eBay.
This is great, but mechs will always use the standar ones so they can charge you 400$ for a change
So true
Can i have my tires turned out (left) so i can access easier?
Yes that what I did
I have a CRV 2005 I would love one of this, but I dont believe they make it for this car; I have searched and cant find it
Try searching universal. The one I used was not for a specific model. They just make them is different sises and you chose the one that fits.
Search universal cv boot.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/186057411747?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=jgxwnbyvqri&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5G_JxmiER7-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
How much one PCs. Only for Left side I like this model
I don’t sell them. When I purchased this it cost me around $50 aud I think
Year later, how long did it last?
Sold the car a while back now with it still going strong
Good stuff mate where can I get them
Try eBay. Or ask at your local parts shop.
@@blackllama1 do u have the parts no?
www.ebay.com.au/itm/295033459833?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=iktjmji8slk&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=5G_JxmiER7-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Sorry I don’t have part number but please see link above
Has it held up after 6 months ?
Still going strong
@@blackllama1 Black Llama ¿dónde se pueden comprar estas botas abiertas?
Did it hold up?
I was super happy with it and would use again. Sold the car now
What’s the product name? So I can check to see if they got some Toyota Tacoma ones
It’s universal.
They are called split Universal CV Boot
www.ebay.com.au/itm/314854047064?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=_3zqslhaq8i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5G_JxmiER7-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
What will happen if we don't replace the broken cv boot
Dust and dirt will get on and soon you will be replacing the entire cv joint axel and all
@@blackllama1 👍🏻 Thnx
@@blueera_21 no worries
You shouldnt be driving 😆
Where can I buy it? or buy it on some page
I would say look it up on eBay. I purchased my one from my local parts shop. But I have seen them on ebay
What brand and model is it ?
The car is an N14 Nissan pulsar 1999
We’re did u get it
My local parts shop. But I have seen them on eBay
hi how did it held up?? THANKS
It held up
Great till I sold the car a while back
@@blackllama1 thanks!
He never regreased the shaft after cleaning it off.
From where I can’t find this for my Mercedes?
I purchased from these guys. I know they have them in stock yesterday.
www.truelocal.com.au/business/j-and-c-hill-mechanical-repairs/cooranbong
Don't get the CV slit boots with the glue, get the ones with the screws and nuts (speedi-boot). The glue never cures because the boot seal doesn't create an "absence of air environment" for the adhesive. With the speedi-boot (with screw and nuts) and just add 242 Loctite thread-locker and you're good to go, and the nuts will never back out.
Thanks for the alternative. Haven’t had a problem with the glue mine is still going strong
@@blackllama1 yes...what he says makes no sense...plus the nuts and screw ones can cause vibration..
Decided to replace the whole axle new with lifetime warranty $64,US for the CV axle
this vid is in straylya, nothing is cheap, and we have a weak $, whole axle unit would most likely be around AUD300.
What is this glue? Brand or data sheet? What is in this glue?
Glue comes with the rubber boot in a kit. Specially designed for doing this.
it was all written in a language I could not read this is not a normal cv boot that I cut that will not work it is a special split boot
@@blackllama1 thank you. I was actually going to try to use it to patch rubber winter boots 🥾 haha different kind of boot.
@@arthurlastname974 I use a product called shoe goo
www.theathletesfoot.com.au/sof-sole-shoe-goo-clear-110mls-tube.html?ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIuMfV4OXX9AIV7ZpmAh2nnQnpEAQYASABEgLGKvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!6457!3!43290374124!!!g!52230535963!&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuMfV4OXX9AIV7ZpmAh2nnQnpEAQYASABEgLGKvD_BwE
How did it hold up ?
Was still going strong when I sold the car a while later. I would use one again. Saved a load of time. Or carry one in the bush on a trip if needed.