TOYOTA OWNERS! Never Replace Your Leaky Axle | Fix Them Instead!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- A Toyota specialist shares an important tip on Toyota and Lexus Axles. Never replace your leaking axle with an aftermarket one or worse a super expensive original one!
Toyota makes a CV Boot kit that comes with the original boots and everything you need to replace them. This kit is usually inexpensive and if you catch the axle leak in time, can save the original axle that otherwise would easily last the life of the vehicle.
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0:00 Axle Boot Kit Information
1:18 Axle Leak Example and Leak Criteria
2:03 Preparing to Remove the Axle
4:47 Toyota Axle Design
6:42 Axle Half Removal
9:19 Axle Tear Down
17:08 New Axle Boot Kit Contents
18:34 Important CV Clamp Information
22:28 CV Boot Tool Information and Tool Demo
24:17 Reassembly Continues
30:53 Reinstallation Tips
36:56 Different Model Differences - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
As a retired educator of 38 years, I am impressed with how descriptive your vocabulary is when it comes to describing the mechanical process involved in your videos. You are a master mechanic who just happens to be a master at educating us in how to fix, replace and repair very complicated car problems. Addressing these difficult issues with the right attitude, demeanor and determination makes us all feel we can be successful DIY selfers! Thanks for being such a great example to all of us!
You said what all true viewers are thinking, plus I must add in the OCD and working on LEXUS, perfect combination
You said it right. This man absolutely deserves the title "Master Mechanic". He's setting a great example for anyone working in that trade, and doing us DIYers one hell of a favor by sharing his knowledge.
And no swear words either!!
I agree except hammering the thriple bearing in the inner cv joint.
Impact hammering the inside part will not affect it but hammering the bearing is no no action.
💯
As a former gradeschool coach and sub teacher for over a decade, i really appreciate your calm and descriptive teaching style. Lots of uus really learn alot from your videos. thanks for sharing. :)
What a blessing to have someone so talented teach the correct way to repair.
I like that
I completely agree, I'm 47 and really try to replicate his teaching style. Very detailed yet interesting and calm. Great job.
👍🏼.
toyota is trash cars....
THIS is the mechanic I would want working on my vehicle.
He knows, down to the tiniest detail, exactly what needs to be done, and how to do it. He doesn't rush, and he doesn't take shortcuts. He uses the right tools and is careful and meticulous every step of the way.
There are few mechanics that have this level expertise, skill and care.
Lots of them exist the problem is getting them to spend as much time and take as much care on the 5th or 9th car of the day as they did the first. Or getting them to care about any of them as much as their own
@@rockydubois1052 has to do with pay.......as the dealer is concerned with hours produced.-and the tech makes a fraction.....
Not all dealers Have all the tools. I never saw one of those crimp tools. I dont miss working on cars at a dealers--PAY SUCKED.
@@harryharry3193 I agree. We have a money obsessed culture and it takes people's focus away from doing quality work. This applies to almost everything, not just mechanic work. It bugs the hell out of me.
I hope you enjoy having the wrong grease in your cv axles LOL
Part of the blame goes to the customers who are price obsessed. Doing work this way with ONLY factory parts costs almost double. Most(sadly) will not pay the price for this quality of work. The other part of the blame goes to mechanics short of ethical behavior and shortcutting their work to pad their profits. What came first...chicken or egg.
I was a master technician for over 30 years and have done many many axles, CV joints and boots and yet when I watch this man, I always learn something new and valuable. Another great video, thank you.
As a entry level technician who has a particular interest in Toyotas, each time I watch one of his videos, it feels like I’m going to tech school online covering a curriculum one video at a time. Amazing stuff always.
Exactly. Me too. I'm a car guy, and qualified (ex) diesel technician, but love watching his channel a lot!
Wish I could work there ☺
I’m with you guys, I own my own 2 bay 2 man auto repair shop, and whenever we have a Toyota comming in for a complicated repair, I have my tech. Watch his vid. Even if it’s a quick breeze through refresher type thing. This guy is top notch , I wish he worked for me!
Mate honestly you will learn soooo much more from a guy like this than those useless workshop trainer vids. But good to learn the oem way first, then stop think about it ll the stuff you learnt and see what you can improve for you.
Your videos are so interesting. I don’t work on cars, but seeing something done well is satisfying. Look forward to every video. 👌🏻
Driveshaft grease. First of all, I really enjoy the channel and all the shared information. I like to share my knowledge and hope you accept and appreciate this. Regarding the brown and black grease, there is actually a distinct difference. But first about the driveshaft itself, Toyota allocated the grease correctly, so the black grease in the CV joint and the brown grease in the Tripod joint. This is also visible in the video, the brown grease is in the tripod and black is in the CV joint. Ok, now for the difference. The theory is that the tripod needle bearings need a lithium soap based grease, so grease without solid particles or basically a thick oil. The CV joint is more robust in design and are able to deal with the Mos2 fortification. Without going in too much details and the literature, please assume the black grease is in fact MoS2 fortified grease and needs to go into the CV joint.
Thank you .. I was dumbfounded to hear him say there is no difference and then proceed to load the two exactly backwards .. they are not the same, great explanation between the two.
I can say first hand that even after 230k miles you can pull off the boots and tell the difference. I’m literally wrapping up this job on a pair of axles this evening.
I would agree. The black heavy grease will be a higher level of black moly grease, so I would put the heavy grease in the outer joint For the Barfield style joint. The tripod with the small roller bearings under the large rollers i would use the thinner grease so it would actually pentrate and actually lubricate the small needle bearings.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this mechanic, Consumers would definitely be more willing to bring their cars into shops if all mechanics were like this
That's an excellent point!
Absolutely. 100%
This guy is such a great teacher. Explains everything slowly and in detail.
As a Certified Toyota Tech, you did a great job explaining the reasons you are performing the repairs in a certain way.
As a certified Toyota Tech, can you tell us which grease goes where 😂
@@jessemoral394 sadly he doesn’t know
@@jessemoral394 my guess is the thicker grease goes on the spider as it has to slip back in to the part on the car. The other side, the boot gets sealed so it won't leak out.
@@jessemoral394 If you order (I did) the Toyota kits (mine is for 4th gen. 4Runner), each individual boot is packed with a packet of grease as well as clamps/snap rings. My inner kit has the lighter colored grease. (FYI..my inner boots were torn....outer boots looked fine (they were Toyota boots)....but decided to replace them as I figured the "labor" is the most difficult and time consuming part of the job....hope this helps..
Outer spiders are more movable than inner spider, therefore, thinner grease is applied the outer one.
Hello, I work in a company that produces axles for most car makers, brown grease is always used for spiders (tripod) and black, gray grease for joint with balls. Different manufacturers use different grease, but the color relationship is always the same.
Totally agree.
One of the best mechanics I've ever seen. Myself included I've been working on cars for over 40 years and I'm truly impressed. Thank you so much for your videos.
he was banging the hell out of the axle spider. that thing is junk.
Thank you, your a blessing to all of us diy people that need to save money. You are very thorough and precise, even down to the different greases. Thank you a million. My brother in-law has stage 4 cancer and I need to do this today so they can drive to Chicago tomarrow. It may be my wife's last time to be with him, he's going fast it seems. You've help a lot of people over this chanel. Bless you and your business. God be yith you. If you ever need anything from Prescott Valley AZ were here for you. Thanks Troy.
I've "aged" out of most DIY car projects. I happened onto your videos and kept watching them because you have the skills of a surgeon, albeit on Toyotas. I find your work to be so skillful you make it look effortless even though I know it is not.
May the Lord bless you and keep you as well!
LOL! I totally agree...I've also "aged out" for many of these projects. Especially something like this, rolling around on the ground as DIY'er and horsing around messy, heavy components. :)
Amen! The last intense job I did on our cars was replacement of a clutch in my son's Acura Integra. I actually pulled a muscle in my face trying to get the clutch to line up. It made rebuilding the hybrid battery on the 2002 Prius seem easy by comparison. I have to rely on others for the brute force work now that I am in my 70s.
Hope he can come home to Iraq one day
@AQ-ep3rt So true...I'm 61 and I'm just about done with fixing cars.
I went to the local Toyota dealership's parts department here in W.P.B., Florida and tried to buy the "Toyota tool" that you showed here. However, everyone who worked in the parts department was FEMALE, had no clue what I was talking about, and said they do not sell a "Toyota CV axle clamp tool" nor have they ever?!
So, would you please be kind enough to give me/us the specific Toyota part number off of it and which dealership that you know of "actually" sells it? (Funny thing, my uncle worked in a Chevy parts department for about 30-40 years and LITERALLY knew 95% of the 8-digit part numbers for any Chevy/GM vehicle by heart... didn't even need to look it up in the book or later the computer! Just walked in the back and grabbed it for you... it was always mind-blowing.)
Thanks in advance and keep up the great work!!
Ok I bought this banding tool, and I tried it on a Lexus CV axle boot band and it worked. It works with the Toyota reboot OEM kit boot bands, and the outstanding NAPA CV boot bands. I've done what I 'm saying and I have done it only twice and didn't "mess up" as I cherish my Toyota CV joints and drive train U joints. The tool I used and it is a good one purchased Ama***on in January 2024 is ZKTOOL CV axle Boot clamp. I am using Redline CV-2 CV grease as it has a super wide temperature range of protection.
the tool I have is made by K-D tools, the clamps are not made by toyota and are used on a lot of cars, the tool # is 424, and is made in USA been working good for 40 years, call a few parts stores I am sure they still make it
Google part number shown. Amazon has several just like it for $30. Probably a Chinese replica but appears decent.
OMG this guy is freaking awesome, easy to understand, concise with details....wish I could have him as my mechanic!
AMD, If the problem ever comes up, I will follow your advice. 😁
I’ll say amen to that! 😆
Great teacher!!! Thanks a lot.
@@jeanduval7877 Oui!
When ever I separate an inner sliding pot/plunge joint I always make sure that each one of the needle roller bearings goes back into the same slot it came out of.
Also re the different grease types. The outer CV joint is designed to have the thick black Molly grease but the inner sliding pot/plunge joint uses the more viscous creamy lighter grease because it can lubricate the needle rollers easier because of it's ability to move around easily.
yes, changed boots on the rear axle on my st185 as a precaution, the information as he said is hard to get, as there is nothing on the topic. The black grease is molybdenum grease which is for the outer axle, and the lighter grease is Polyurea grease, which is a lower NGLI grease that turns more liquidy at higher temperature to supposedly prevent the needle bearings from burning up from the movements. If my memory recalls correctly, I've read something about SAAB changing the grease from Polyurea to simple moly grease for the inner axle for ease of use/cost efficiency or something, however I don't remember if it made them last less. It's a shame some technical topics/questions just end at "Just use the grease in the packaging" "Just buy some CV joint grease" when you can clearly see there is a difference in the grease, it might work, but is it right? I want my axles to last as long as possible since there are not dimes a dozen of them.
This is my understanding as well. Even in this video, you can actually see that the grease from the old CV joint is thicker.
With all due respect, I would wail on the inner joint yoke from the forged area around the center spline hole instead of the precision bearings. Maybe a socket of the proper size would work for this. Love the videos and great advice.
I was thinking the same thing. He is sooo smart I can't believe he did that and the fact that more people don't say something. He just put 50,000 extra miles on it... everyone has flaws just like me :)
I use brass hammer for things like that. It won't damage the steel parts.
The rag doesn't provide sufficient cushion or isolation.
The force still be transmitted through the bearings. This could put flats on the bearings. Brass hammers are great for many tasks though. @@andrewjones2167
@@andrewjones2167 Yeah, i was a bit surprised at that as well, just using the rag. I realize they are hardened but it made me wonder if there was any visible damage.
I agree , impressed with his past videos . Very surprised when installing the spider. Also when removing that same part would a modified puller have worked?
This guy is the best, and willing to freely show and reveal his knowledge to benefit all of us. And that is priceless , God bless you brother.
Couple things worth mentioning, I never would hammer on those tripods that hard, I also like to mark where they were on the shaft. I also think the watery grease belongs in the tripod end, and the thick stuff on the CV joint.
I agree that the best quality axles are the ones that came with the vehicle. (except Honda) Years ago I worked with a guy who would never install an A/M axle, only good used from a wreckers. Too many issues with the Chinese ones, the boots don't stay on, wont stay sealed, no balancing weights, vibrations, one year lifespans, etc. Good video, just when I thought I knew everything, I learned a few new things today.
Excellent video. i also had reservations on hammering on needle bearings who knows of it might cause flat spots on them. going on the side of precaution i would go right to the air hammer both ways. overall i like your way of teaching . Well done.
Plain and Simple: You are a damn good Toyota technician !!!!!!
For sure! we just need more AMD’s all over the country to work on our cars!
Very good teacher. But. He has access to a lift and up to date tools of every sort. Makes a huge difference. Experience and tools.
Sr. You are an outstanding person. I’m a DIY type but seek the help of a knowledgeable person when I need it.
I Do Not trust stealerships. Toyota of Colorado Springs,CO once gave me an estimate to replace The Rack an Pinion, battery, and quite a few more pieces on my Tundra. It was about $6-7k. I declined! Years later, I bought the rack and took it to a shop to have installed, the shop asked me why I replaced it if there was nothing wrong with it. I replace the battery 5 years later, it never failed when Toyota wanted to replace it.
I appreciate your knowledge and honesty when explaining the process of the repairs you do.
Thank you,
Herbert
I love how positive and calm you are even with how obviously difficult this whole entire thing is. You give us hope 😀 Kudos to the camera man as well. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
I do most of my own car repairs. I don't even have a Toyota at this time but I still enjoy watching your videos. Thats how much I respect your work. Great job my friend!
What is your brand of Choice. I have been getting nothing but new Honda's starting back in 1987.
I found the Toyota to be a bit bland and soft. Later on in life I purchased my first new Toyota Camry. At that point I liked it more than the Honda. It was a smoother quieter ride mellowed out overtime.
Where can I just a clamp not working right now I have a 2014 Toyota Camry
WHEN TAKING THE SPIDER OUT OF THE SPLINE, USE A SMALL WOOD BLOCK IN BETWEEN THE IT & THE HAMMER, OR USE THE RUBBER MALLET, OR YOU DAMAGE THE 3 BALL BEARING.
+1 for too much hammer on the spider. "Notice I'm not whaling on it".....immediately starts pounding on it before using air hammer. Then pounds some more directly on the lobes when replacing it🙃!
Why are you yelling? No need to be rude. 😉
Could have sworn I used a bearing puller to extract the spider, back in the day.
I’d rather see you use a copper or lead hammer.😎
@@oldmatelots2748 "Too much hammer on the spider" is what I was thinking, too. Then again, am I a professional mechanic?
Hello, first off I wanna say I’m glad you’re sharing your knowledge with folks… makes me happy when people are involved with their own repairs…I’ve been working for Toyota for almost 3 decades ..I just wanted to add a few correction.. if you don’t mind, not sure if you over looked them but.. the grease was not installed in the correct order the clear brownish grease goes in the inner boot and the thicker grease goes in the outer. If you noticed. When you removed both boots the outer grease was thick and the inner grease was dripping..
you forgot to remove air that gets traps when installing boots, this will cause boots to expand and rupture under high rpm .
You mentioned vibration when installing after market,, that is correct but you also made a mistake by not marking the position of the inner joint when removing it, that will cause vibration .. last , when you installed the outer boot and the rusted pain chipped it got caught under the boot were the clam goes.. it’s going to leak ….
3 decades! Seems like someone who knows Toyotas like the back of their hand haha! Read your comment and was wondering (going to do this job myself), what do you mean by marking the position of the inner joint? Thanks!
- Fellow Toyota lover
What is the procedure to remove air from the boots?
I know this is an ancient post to reply to - but basically, you put a paint mark across the two sides of the CV joint to make sure the axle goes back into the same alignment - there are three ways that the tulip can fit into the inner joint.
This keeps any factory balance that was done.
Oh.... That would be a pain to put on the thinner grease in the inner boot if we are not taking out the whole axle assembly.
Excellent video! I don’t even own a Toyota right now. But your calm demeanor and how you explain each step, I still feel like I’m learning something important, and is why I watched the entire 40 minute video! Keep up the great work!
Well Stated!!!
Even classroom backbenchers like me get your lessons. That's how good you are as a teacher.
Lol
I wish I had seen your video before. I spent hours hammering the whole axel out only to find that I couldn't remove one side. Bought aftermarket one that now sounds like it grinds when braking. I'll have to find the pieces to the original one. Great instructor. You are a natural!
Lucky people who can service their cars at your shop! I wish there are mechanics like you, talented and passionate about their craftsmanship. My Toyota Corolla is 100k only but for the last three years every time, I’m at the Toyota service center for oil change, they come up with something. My car doesn’t feel the same when I leave after service. I just replaced the belt and didn’t drive even $10k and they are saying it’s glazing and needs to be replaced. It seems there is no trustworthy mechanics anymore.
I do alot of diy. I enjoy the learning experience and saving a load of money. Your presentation is very educating and entertaining. Great job!
Exceptionally great videos all the time!!!!
Toyota axle boots replaced was excellent. Im 74 and was a licensed Honda tech. All products literally. Also retired corporate.
Great job and superp repair. I'm not doing that much anymore but still service my products.
Love the fact you stress OEM replacement products and the Toyota boot clamp special tool. Decided to view this while eating but watched it till you were done. You like what your doing that's for sure. Kudos!
I'm still a fan of Toyota and their Corolla. 50 million made and under other names as well, not seen in North America.
The best teacher. Articulate, crispy clear instruction, no stone unturned. Kept it simple. Nice clean organized shop. Tools on the left, bench in the middle, trash on the right. Everythings in place. Learned a lot. Thank you
Hello my friend. I love all your Toyota videos. I too am a mechanic and do exactly as you do for these axles. Just a note of caution. Using the air hammer is the good solution but the axle cross and air hammer bit are hardened steel and can chip. I would not want to see you get a piece in your eye. Safety glasses are a good idea. Stay safe and awesome! You are a credit to mechanics everywhere!!
Why doesn't he just use the air hammer (with safety glasses on) instead of banging away on the bearings?
THIS is why I truly enjoy subscribing to your channel. Your videos are always informative, straight to the point, and practical for the DIY mechanic. Outstanding!
Here Here
I am continually impressed by your depth of knowledge, calm, well-paced delivery, and the camera work.
I've done this job many times with my volkswagens. Disassembled the bearings, thoroughly cleaned them, then struggled to reassemble the outer cage and six balls to the inner portion. Your way is much easier. Never let a little pitting of the balls prevent me from reusing the bearings.
I have watched hundreds, if not thousands of hours of educational video on cars and information technology, and this sir is one of the best I've seen. People like you, sir, who share their knowledge from years of experience make the world a better place. Thank you!
Very meticulous and clearly explained. You are awesome and I very knowledgeable in what you do. I hope you keep making more of these terrific videos. May you and your family be Blessed! Thank You.
It's a pleasure to watch a master mechanic perform and thoroughly explain this replacement. I'm a DIYer and this video, as fascinating as it was to watch, showed me I never want to do this repair myself. You are a great representative for the quality of Toyota mechanics.
Ooof.. Don't strike the C.V joint like that with a steel hammer.. i first try a dead blow lead shot type hammer.. if that doesn't do it.. i then use a brass drift punch on the very center of the cage that is on the shaft and strike the brass drift with a steel hammer or brass hammer... and slightly strike it back and forth on all sides while pulling up on it.. i have also used a short piece of 2x4 to catch the outer part of the joint where he had the rag over it...and then hit the 2x4 with a hammer.... but NEVER use a steel hammer directly on the joint.. no.. not even with a rag over it.. I'm a Toyota and A.S.E Master as well.. with over 35 years in the field... I'm not trying to be an ass.. but i disagree with the way he handled that.. just saying...
@@pseudosmith9945 yes question I have 3 Toyotas I have a 2000 Tacoma and a 1986 Celica gts i take all three of my vehicle to to the dealership talking about my 2000 Tacoma I took it to the dealership to have the cv boot replace as usual but the dealership told me that the they were frozen or sieged something like that ok and needed to replace the entire axel I had no problem with that they attempted to order the Toyota replacement but unavailable soo they went with after market parts not a fan of after market parts but had no choice and basically the same thing with my 1986 Celica just recently same thing exactly any suggestion thank you
@@jameseverly8501 yes.. parts have gotten difficult to get these days.. go ahead and run those shafts since you have to but just keep an eye out for any vibration/shaking that may appear after the replacement with those after market shafts which could cause bearing/seal wear in the hubs and/or transaxle.. have them order the factory units and notify you when they come in if you are having problems with the aftermarket ones or just WANT the factory ones.. generally. If they are bad.. you'll notice right off.. look up factory Toyota parts on the internet and there are sites you can buy factory parts. I have bought some from Marrietta Ga all the way to Texas before.. You can even call a dealership in another state that may have them in stock and have them shipped to you, you could install them yourself or have a reputable shop do so for you.. good luck and hope this helps.. 👍
Yeah, I thought I wanted to until I watched how complicated it is. It made me appreciate quality mechanics that much more.
@@pseudosmith9945 I am with you, that steel hammer no. I will be soon making Lead hammers and selling on Ebay. I have the old cast Iron mould.... I use 1/2" Pipe with a tee... pour the hot lead !! Use heavy dead blow or plastic hammers...
AMD, as usually, this video and you sharing your knowledge, tips and experience are SO INCREDIBLY HELPFUL! I wish you were here so I can have your shop service my Toyota and Lexus. You're awesome!
His work is always spot on. Here is something I tried, that would probably not get recommended but, so far, 40,000 miles and it has worked.
I was working on some suspension parts and then bought new tires, then immediately drove to different shop for an alignment,. They spotted some grease on my rim and sure enough, I had a hole, about 1/8 inch long, on my outer boot. I knew for a fact that it was put there that day, since I had the rim off and decided to clean the rim. So, either I damaged the boot or the tire shop did, it does not matter, it was literally 6 miles of driving and a little bit of grease escaped.
So, I got a syringe, (you don't need a needle) and put grease back into the boot, cleaned the boot with rubbing alcohol and used a black silicone to seal the boot.
Has it held up? Yes. Would your mechanic recommend this fix? NO. But if you catch the leak quickly, before damage is done and don't have the money or feel like doing the work to replace the boot,, or don't want to try a "split boot" that is available sometimes, I can say this worked so far and I expect the fix is permanent.
Patience to teach is a gift.
Nobody around here replaces anything until there is no choice.
Excellent for people who pay attention AND care!
Great information, this is a saver. Makes perfect sense not to replace unless damaged. After market is definitely junk. Great job! 👍🏻
What is also frustrating is that there are Toyota shoes that require disassembly and there are aftermarket kits that have an open shoe so you can put it around without disassembly, but they're said to be low-quality.
Aftermarket is not junk lol we’ve used hundreds of aftermarket axles and never had a problem
@@epicclips456if the aftermarket is from China then most likely it's junk. I changed a front axle on a Volvo with aftermarket and in one week it was bad. Went straight to OEM and it lasted till the car was sold.
i recently got my forklift licence osha the instructor wasnt as accurate at all like you in el paso texas he was getting calls like in a hurry to get the class over with you on the other hand are self explanatory go to the point show everything there is to show or say great video nicely explained calm '.confident know what your doing i wish you were my mechanic thanks
This was a fantastic video. I wish I had seen it two years ago. I have a 2004 Sienna. It is just over 200k miles. In the last 2 years I have had 3 CV axles put on it (at my regular mechanic) aftermarket junk. Dang.....I wish I had known. Even though these aftermarket crap have "warranties" it is a pain to get it back in the shop, etc. etc. etc. Also ----- I have actually asked....a regular mechanic.... "If the boot is torn, why can you not just replace to boot????" I have been told you cannot do that. Because from a earth conscience individual, I hate to waste all these parts. They wind up where? In the landfill? Where do they go????? I am a huge advocate of fixing something as opposed to just throwing it away. Anyways...... I cannot thank you enough for making me a better consumer. There is no doubt this costs in labor. But in my opinion, it is such a better option than putting more parts in the landfill. Thank you again and again.
I don't drive a Toyota but I enjoy watching your vids, the professionalism and attention to detail is captivating.
Very professionally done & equally honestly explained! If you were in front of me physically I might salute you for these qualities! May you live a happy, healthy & long life with your loved ones! May the ALLSH bless you always!
Just finished this job on my 2008 Avalon - your video was very helpful. Ive done this on other vehicles and its always messy. I got the Genuine Toyota CV boot kit. Some of the CV boot clamps in the kit were very stout - I had to order a knock-off Toyota clamp tool ($25)on Amazon (worked great) my clamp pliers were simply not up to the task. If you have the balance shaft I recommend putting witness marks on the axle and balance shaft before removal - there is no obvious marking or slot showing where they go.
Finally Id mention that in my genuine Toyota boot kit there were 2 different kinds of CV boot clamps. One type was like those in the video. The other type did not have the crimp portion that gets crushed, instead they had small ridges that you have to carefully pinch (needle nose vise grips worked well for me. These are somewhat trickier as the ridges you pinch are only ~1-2mm raised from the clamp so you have to be careful. Of course these are the type on the spider side such that you have to do the delicate procedure under the car $%@!*
Pure truth about the Toyota axles. I have used the boot kits, but recently I found Toyota factory remanufactured axles! These are an excellent value, but sometimes can be hard to get. Obviously, they only reman as many axles as they get, or actually less because some are rejected for not passing inspection. Either way, NEVER use any axle other than genuine Toyota axles.
Looking back , I made that mistake. At 150k miles the axle boots on my 06 Sienna started to leak and I installed inexpensive aftermaket axles instead and they were only good up to 30 k miles and that is being generous. The wobble while accelerating started and also the vibration with heavy load and when drivng uphill. Just recently I bit the bullet and installed OEMs. Yes they were expensive as hell but I intend to keep this van for many more years. I'm at 206k miles and the van drives like new. No more wobble or vibrations. I periodically spray them with AT 205.
I'm not a DIY but I really enjoy watching you videos! Your descriptions as you progress through your video's is amazing. Thank you for your for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.
I am one of those diyers that always get intimated and afraid that I am biting off more than I can chew. But watching yours videos always inspire me to take up the challenge. The sense of accomplishment I feel when I complete a challenge is SO satisfying. Thank you for being such a great instructor.
Going back many years , my Brother in Law who was an Aircraft Enginner, had to get the wheel off a 707-720, which was seized on.
He found a steam cleaner and used that to heat the bearing, the wheel then came off easily.
Every mechanic worth their salt understands the need to improvise and isn't afraid to do it, so long as it doesn't risk the integrity of the parts being worked on. I've jerry-rigged tools that weren't worth buying because I only needed them once, used cut-up soda cans as exhaust clamp shims and am now hoping to build my own ABS wheel sensors after I broke the original ones overhauling the rear suspension, because I don't want to spend $300 each for new OEM ones, assuming that they're even still made.
Perfect timing! I had a clamp come off. I actually just used a needle grease gun tip under the axle seal into the joint. Then put a new clamp on, cleaned it up and called it good. Seems fine so far.
I am 47 years old and all my life all we change is the booth and grease , cv if needed ….. only past few years changing the entire axle has become an option , and personally I would rather leave the inner cup on the transmission after cutting off the inner boot , replace grease boot and clamp on on where it is ! When you pop that inner out tranny fluid falling out extra work for me
Even though I do not own a Toyota car, I still want to learn from your video...because the principle of this job is very similar. This video also remind me an embassment I had years ago trying to replace the same thing on my Nissan Quest when I was lying on the ground to do it. I was not able to pop this out for lack of leverage due to the cramped space, which forced me to put every thing back on and sent it to an auto shop with my new part. Lesson learned in a hard way but I did not regret it as I had tried at least.
You also had the sense to know when to cut your losses... a critical bit of sense I don't often have!
And here I thought Scotty Kilmer & Chris Fix were the only honest mechanics out there.
Your "How Does a Toyota Engine with 300,000 Miles Look Like On The Inside?" video was recommended to me a few days ago and I watched it. Since then, this video popped up and I had to watch it. I had just taken my 2008 Scion XB to the Toyota stealer-ship about a month ago for the TRD brake recall. I was pretty sure my XB didn't fall under that recall, cause I do my own brakes, and have never seen anything branded with TRD. I took it to Toyota because I knew they would do the usual multi-point inspection and report back to me with their off the wall prices. Interestingly enough, they said my axles are leaking and I need to replace them. I had actually started looking at aftermarket axles on Amazon, but was super skeptical about buying them. I generally won't buy anything aftermarket for my XB that's a major moving part, or a part that requires any extensive amount of work or time to put in.
As a do it yourself-er, I considered doing this myself. But now seeing that I may only need to replace the boots, and I'd be saving hundreds of dollars, I'd rather just pay someone to replace the boots. I wasn't even aware that you could replace just the boots, and the thought had actually crossed my mind on why I would need to replace the axles if they're simply leaking grease.
Anyhow, will that same boot kit work on an 08 2nd Gen Scion XB? And if so, what is the part number for the kit?
This guy is the best. Very professional and informative. He takes his time and explain everything clearly. I hope he continue to do educational videos. We need more people just like him. Job well done. Thank you for everything.
If the CV axle that you took apart was the factory original, it looks like the lighter color grease was in the inner joint. Great video. Keep up the excellent work!
i think the dark grease is moly e. p. and pretty sure it goes on the outer joint L1 master car and truck
I agree, the lighter grease was on the inner joint for me too. In addition, the inner boot is small compared to the outer boot for a Sienna. I did it this way. Thanks for the clamp size details. I made sure to use the same length camps in my case.
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt Yes, moly + lithium whereas I believe the inner joint is only lithium grease. I believe the outer joint takes a lot more stress and needs the moly extreme pressure grease. My experience backs this up as I have always had the outer joint wear out first (not because of a split boot, but from wear).
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt agree i used to do the old BMC Minis and the black Moly Ep grease was used for the outer CV joints , i remember doing Hondas innthe 80s and they had the same spider pot joints on the inner and it was the clearer grease and black on the outer
@@doctormengele961 i can still remenber the 2tc and the 8rc engines
Superbly shot, edited and explained ... you've gone done it again AMD - the pride you take in your work shows ...
Wow, my mentality went from "This job may be too much" to "I think I can do this in a weekend". You are an extraordinary teacher and presenter, I'll be doing this soon after I replace my shocks, thank you so much!!!
Excellent tutorial. Being a retired millwright for 35 years and working with alll kind of bearing job, I think smacking the tripod or spider with a hammer can cause or maybe not, short term issues on the 3 bearings. I did several c- v axel and wheeI bearing in my life and I used when they are stuck a bearing splitter under the spider with a steel split bushing maintained together by a hose clamp, between tool and tripod to prevent any force on bearing and using a puller. But your air hammer is ok if only the tripod's yoke is involved. The same for getting the spider in. Using a big brass punch also on the center of the spider instead smacking directly on bearings with a rag on, would be appropriate to my opinion. Without any offense to you sir. We just work differently and you are such a good teacher.
A Bocsh Rotary Hammer drill (on hammer mode) and a bull nose chisel worked for me and I was thrilled. I believe because of the frequency of vibration. The spline was rusted solid to the knuckle. Thankfully didn't damage axle.
thanks for mentioning the clamp differences. I am pretty sure I'd mess that up.
I had no idea the clamps came in such precise sizes... 0.2mm between those two similar clamps. It makes sense, though.
Excellent video! The only thing I do differently is to cut the boot immediately, slide it down, then air hammer the spider mount out without hitting those rollers, or chisel it out.
Bought my ‘04 4Runner in ‘19. 139,000 miles, Axle boots were really bad, grease slung everywhere. There was no noise or vibration. I purchased Toyota boot kits, really took my time to totally clean all old grease, rinsed with solvent. Did the ball joints the same way. Put everything back together and 35,000 miles later it’s still as smooth as silk. Love the 4Runner.
Replaced front axles on my Honda Element with aftermarket axles. It was terrible, clunking, clanking, popping shaking and vibration etc. The OEM Honda axles cost $200 more each, but they worked. Don’t take chances on aftermarket parts that require many hours of labor costs.
I went through this just a few months ago. Ended up just replacing the boot clamps because they had loosened up over time. Dealer wanted me to replace axles. $1600 parts, $1250 labor.
How many miles driven since replacing clamps? Have you convinced yourself that the leaking stopped? More so than old clamps loosening, I wonder if the old rubber boots shink to cause the leaks. Give us a long time report if your fix works for 50K miles.
@@chetmyers7041 the rubber did probably shrink. It's a 2008 with 140k miles. This was only a few months ago, and only a few thousand miles since then. Won't have 50k data for 3 or so years.
Dealer stealers!
@@gulzeb
Never take a car out of warranty to the stealership, especially something like a 2008 with 140k miles. Most medium to large sized cities have shops like CarCareNut that specialize in one make and generally aim for repeat business, not bending you over with no lube like stealerships.
@@ruthnoya8424 that is fine as long as like you said it is a specialty shop or a shop that will use OE parts. Some shops are putting super cheap parts on peoples cars nowadays.
Thank you for a great channel, every time I watch one I learn and save money!
I'd put the crimp 180 degrees from each other for optimum balancing lol. Great video. I'll be doing this on my GX470 soon and definitely appreciate the video walkthrough.
As a retired donut maker, shoe salesman, dirt striker, you know your stuff!
Ahmad,
Great video! Your shop walls and floor are very bright so you need to consider the light balance when you are under the car or making a point about some part of the car. Also, wear blue not black gloves to increase visibility.
Really enjoy the hands on service videos.
I'm a Veterinarian and will never do this job, but I love to see when people do their manual job with pride and knowledge, Thanks.
I think clamps crimps is better in 180deg. opposite to each end & in line together with the other to maintain balance. Also you could use brass hammer softer material or a gear puller for the spider bearings thank you. Great job sir..
Thank you for sharing. Not only we need more knowledgeable mechanics like you but I think community colleges need auto mechanic instuctors like you in their programs. God bless you.
Love your videos - being retired now I don't get to play on cars as much as I used too - and the hands don't get as dirty watching videos. I've always been nervous about hitting the spider - I tend to using a three jaw puller. I always mark the axle / shaft and spider so the rollers go in the same leg of the inner - maybe I'm a nervous Nellie. Love the little Toyota tool - never seen one in Australia even in dealerships.
I had one of these rear axles go out in my wh statesman. In tracking down which axle, we concluded it was the right side going out. 3 days after replacing it, the noise returned. Took the car to a diff shop who told me it was on the left side. Got second hand units for both sides. After 2 weeks of no noise I concluded I fixed the noise. Took apart the old axle, grease had shriveled and dried, and there were millions of tiny steel shavings in the inner joint, along with 40 mm of side play.
agree with you of making marks to the axle,shaft and spider, probably the balance them at factory
I cringed when the steel hammer hits the spider rollers lol; there’re needle bearings inside. A brass hammer or a chisel at the spider part next to the splines would be safer.
Yeah would go straight to the collar. Impacting a bearing is asking for problems.
Im with you guys here... I couldnt believe what I was seeing..those rollers and needles, slightest damage or imperfection from the hammering and you Will feel it as a vibration in the axle as you drive..even putting the tripod back on the spline and Not marking its exact original fit position, you can get vibrations..so wacking the rollers like that is russian roulette
Another GREAT video by you guys!!! The calm demeanor and camera work really are geared to educate anyone having to look into cv axle repair/replacement.
I cannot thank you enough for all of your videos!!!
This video was very informative, and, as an owner of a 2021 RAV4, reassuring. I hadn't realized that Toyota CV axles are so durable. We intend to keep this car for many years to come and I will perform some maintenance when required. After watching this video, I realized that boot replacement is well within my skill set. Our previous car was a 2009 Corolla, 243000 miles at trade-in with the original axles and boots. That car had few failures, all parts replacements were mileage related. I have been impressed with Toyota quality and durability. Thanks for educating us with your videos.
I had a 1991 VW Jetta TD that had 698, 714 KM on it when it was totaled by a speeding jerk, running a Red light. That converts into 434, 160 Miles. It also had the original axles and boots. In fact, i kept both drive axles from it and ended up using one of them on a 1986 VW Jetta TD that i bought after the '91 was totaled. I bought the '91 New but the '86 had 229,000 KM on it when i bought it---now has over 750,000 KM on it. It's still running but has low oil pressure.
I a the physics teacher of 27 years, and I love your OCD, your thorough descriptions, your rationale, your instructional pedagogy, and your job well done. You are a great teacher yourself friend.
As an MB tech I totally agree. Our axles are often $1200 and up. Typically it’s worth replacing the boots.
Aftermarket axles often make the vehicle vibrate like it has collapsed engine mounts while at idle in gear.
How would an axle make a vehicle vibrate at idle?
@@macbook802 I’m not sure why but I’ve run into this issue multiple times. If u see new engine mounts and aftermarket axle shafts it’s a good indicator that an independent shop hung a bunch of parts chasing the vibration.
Thank you for sharing! When I fixed my Tacoma, it took many curse words and strikes from hand tools to get the spider off. It took forever. Most people share videos on how to simply replace the entire axle. This is MUCH better than removing the entire axle just to repair the boots. Thank you!
It's hard to imagine anyone doing what you do any better than you do. A+
Highlander front axles went bad at 100k miles. Dealer wanted $2500 for OEM but offered aftermarket for $1750. It took them 6 hours to do the job. I would have done it myself but I was traveling. The level of incompetence and graft is amazing.
OUTSTANDING VIDEO! Well, what you said in the first few seconds is more than aqccurate. MONUMENTAL difference between an OEM Axle vs the after market Axle, is the truth!
2019 Highlander, 60k miles. Torn boot R/F Pass side; no clicking or symptoms. Only a torn boot (wish to hell I would have seen this video first and had the Toyota Boot Kit installed). Anyway, Mechanic installed non OEM axle (per aftermarket, extended warranty), and immediately I felt the vibration, especilly with Power Button "on" and under hard acceleration. At first, barely perceptable with the FIRST Replacment Axle, while driving under 40 MPH, but was there. At 65+, and while passing, felt a heavy vibration (first replacement axle). Felt like (what use to be) an old Universal Joint going out. Mechanic installed SECOND OEM AXLE and seemed resolved. About a 50 miles later, vibration again started and became progressively worse, even more-so than the First Replacment AXLE. With the second replacment Axle, first noted as I passed at 65+ and immediatly felt the vibration start again. This time, as if the sudden torgue associated with accelaration caused the subpar part to fail. My guesss is the aftermarket Axle can't handle the torgue of the Toyota V6 delivering power to the front wheels. Hence, the second axle was fine for about a 50 miles. Not until the (2nd) Axle was pushed (if you call passing another car pushed) did I feel an immediate failure. I drive all V8's, but the new V6 is potent.
Car is driven by my wife (60) and not abused. Serviced regularly and meticulously cared for. Had newer set of Michelin Latitude Tour+ Tires ( high end tire!) balanced and rototated to illiminate a "Tire Issue" as the cause. As I said, no symptoms before this started, just a torn OEM Boot. It all started after the Axle change.
I am more than frustrated at myself, for not knowing this information! Live and learn. BUY GENUINE OEM TOYOTA PARTS FOR your car.
Safe driving!!
Great video. Very easy to follow. Did this last week and it took me about 5 hours to do both drivers and passenger side axles.
At 27:30, instead of hammering on the spider, I placed the axle nut socket from earlier in the video on top of the spider and hammered on the socket. It applies pressure evenly around the circumference of the spider and allows you to hammer directly on a $15 socket instead of directly on the spider.
Thats right , never hammer on a bearing , it will never be the same.
Yep I cringed watching him hammer the bearings unnecessarily. It's a perfect application to use the socket method!
The speed and level of detail you give during your demonstration is perfect. If only my first year instructors had been like you, I would have picked up the 'pro-tips' that you make like never throwing out old parts during re & re just in case you need to reference parts size or location as stated around 7:13
I liked the saying that says we fix the problem,not adding the cost to a customer
I’m had to change axle on left o9sen pull 3 seals from kit Finley silicon last seal to stop leak 3 different mechanics cost 650*00 wish I had seen your show before I had it done,
Always great at explaining the process and almost makes me feel like I could do the job. NOT will leave it for the professionals. Keep up the great videos, it at least helps us understand what might be causing problems with our cars.
Excellent presentation! Attention to detail and very thorough from start to finish. Learned a lot about proper disassembly and assembly especially the different clamps, grease, tools, etc. Thank you!
That Toyota clamp tool is badass, I'm buying one for work
I'm sooooo not going to do this job myself, even though I've replaced a few axles in Dodge minivans. But I do appreciate the concept of just replacing the boots and grease instead of the entire axle assembly.
Nevertheless, this video is excellent, and AMD is a remarkable instructor, as said by other commenters.
In the olden days, I replaced many boots and even outer CV joints. As a side note Hyundai was only one to wear out joints without boot leakage.
A hint on those CV joint greases: the black grease is black because it contains Molybdenum Di-sulfide which is called for in applications involving high pressure (large forces on small contact points) wear interfaces. Since "it couldn't hoit," I've been known to add some straight Moly grease to standard bearing and CV greases. Here, I'd asses that the smallest contact surfaces are in the outer, ball-in-groove joint and use the black grease there...or have some high Moly Di-sulfide grease on hand to add to the Lithium grease.
you are right, the inner residue look yellow 10:08
"Couldn't hoit" reminds me my brother calls moly grease "molybolium" grease. A light heart makes working on troublemakers like cars easier. Now, just try to get "molybolium" out of your mind! Mine is still stuck there.
@@flagmichael Easy: I learned it as "Molly B. Denum."
I bought a replica compression tool off Amazon for about $20 or so. Made a massive difference. Also your trick for getting the snap ring back on worked wonders. I fought that ring for a while until I re-watched the video and saw how you did it. I got both boots replaced on the passenger side, and it went really well. I highly suggest holding the three CV bearings (so they don't slide out of place) as you slide it into the coupler housing. (Or what-ever you call that). For me it just slide in nice and easy. Thanks so much for the tutorial on how to do this!! Saved me $1500 from the dealer. I only spent 150 on parts for the boots. And by the way, my CV axel and parts were in pristine shape, even for a 15 year old car.
Actually bought the actual compression tool off eBay for $115😮. Still cheaper long run
when compared with the stealership labor charge of 1800.
Good job ! i have a fj cruiser also. I also suggest to check inside the ''tube'' frame. It's a good idea to remove scaly paint and dust because moisture can get trapped and rust from inside...
I watched this even though I don’t own a sienna. Very informative. Could you do a video for 4Runners? Guys break axles etc out in the bush. It would be great being able to fix yourself.
As always, incredible video, Amd. I try to maintain my wife’s 15’ Sienna as much as I can. I have never done a re-boot Job on a Toyota but you have made it look very easy and worth trying if I need too. Thank you for passing on your knowledge to us! Greatly appreciated!