Can Seafoam Remove Heavy Sludge Deposits?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2021
- **FOR THOSE ASKING FOR A FOLLOW UP VIDEO, THIS JEEP WAS ROLLED AND TOTALED**
My engine has been struggling lately have a pushrod come unseated three times. There appears to be quite a bit of sludge in the motor which is probably the culprit. I decide to try a can of seafoam and see how changes things.
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Last updated: May 11, 2023 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Sir, you have (or had) a sticking valve. A "stuck lifter" will always maintain spring pressure on the rocker and the pushrod. When you have a sticking valve, the valvetrain can be unloaded as the lifter rides down the back side of the cam lobe and the valve doesn't follow. When the valve train unloads, the push rod can separate from the rocker...
Seafoam treatment holding up? I enjoy and respect that you seem self-taught and don't bluff your way through your vids. Your detailed explanations give me confidence in attacking projects that have been ingrained in my mind as being inapproachable to home garage mechanics👍
First off, thanks for the kind words! Secondly, the jury is still out on the seafoam. I had a rough start this morning but settled down after about a minute. My motor has a lot of sludge so if it still has issues I can't really blame it in the Seafoam. There are plenty of other videos out there that show a definite change such as the Project Farm channel.
An old trick mechanics do was draining half the oil from the oil pan and filling the other half with diesel fuel. Then let the car idle for about a half hour....don't drive or rev it , just let it idle. Diesel fuel has enough solvents to break down the oil sludge but with half of the original oil still in it won't damage the seals or gaskets. Then drain everything and add fresh oil and a fresh oil filter. Hope this helps ❤️
@@JesusChrist-xk9ee I’m on the fence on this. I can’t attest to personal experience, but I’ve researched this quite a bit, and it seems a 50/50 split. Allot of old school mechanics recommend it. But then I heard that the fuel can damage seals…idk.
@@TheBFHGarage run a quart of Marvel Mystery oil in your crank case for several hundred miles. Basically replace a quart of oil with the MMO. I think it works better inoil than Seafoam
@@JesusChrist-xk9ee another old mechanics trick is to use a quart of automatic transmission fluid in place of one quart of engine oil. Run it for about 50 miles. Transmission fluid has a lot of detergents in it. You just don't want to run it for very long. Follow it up with a full oil change and new filter.
Great video I have just done this to my TJ. Hoping for good results
You forgot to mention that before tightening the rocker bolts to factory specifications, the piston should be at top dead center ( often called TDC). Which means top position with both valves closed. If you tighten those rockers with pressure on the push rods, no surprise they become loose.
Its also a good idea to check for a broken or weak valve spring while you have the valve cover off. A broken or weak spring can also allow the pushrod to come out.
I used this on my 2001 Ram 1500 with the 5.2 and had tremendous success. It really quieted a noisy engine down. However, seafoam in the crankcase will not smoke unless your burning oil. Its only supposed to be one ounce per quart of oil in it. The drive for around a tank of gas then change your oil. It helps break down deposits which in turn really dirtys the oil so getting it out is important. I know for certain is quieted my truck down and felt like it ran better as well.
great video Mike, i had a situation with my 4.0 that sounded like a bad tensioner or idler pulley "chirping" it turned out to be a rocker near in one of the back of the engine. i did some googling and found that the lifters do get stuck and stop pumping oil to the rockers. that causes the chirp from the dry rocker. i like you wanted to try a "why not try it fix" and added more than the recommended amount and started it up the chirping stopped with in 10 minutes. drove it on the street through several good long heat cycles and it seems to have worked. i have used seafoam for quiet a while in fuel and crank case and i believe it is a good product.
Don't let my looks fool you guys, I'm more than meets the eye than pleasing your eyes. Take off the valve cover, and put seafoam in a spray bottle like a Windex or spray cleaner type bottle. Spray it all over the cams get it soaking wet, let it sit for 20min then spray it again. put the valve cover back on. mix 3 full quarts of ATF and 4 full bottles of seafoam, shake it well then drain the oil completely from the engine and fill the engine with the mixed compounds. Let the engine run for 30min because Seafoam and ATF work very well when heated as they are cleaning fluids. It's a super-effective cleaning monster that cuts sludge like a hot knife going through butter and it also eats rust.
You are aware doing that will eat the engine oil also and their is absolutely 0% chance in hellllll you could run a car for more then 10min like that.
@@thegreatbenis225 Duh, the oil is bad to begin that's why you're doing this and the engine can run more than 10 min with this super oily cleaning additive mix. It cleans and lubricates the engine and eats the sludge like hell.
@@Ayixliaive done this on a 1.8L engine with fresh oil and filter. I believe I ran a full bottle and let the car idle for 45min. At the 40min mark I left and came back 5min later and my car was overheating. It could've just been a coincidence but idk, my car is still sludge up to all hell and I need to figure out a solution that doesn't evolve buying a new engine. Btw I bought the car sludged, I'm not a tard that puts off oil changes
@@thegreatbenis225I am curious what you eventually have done with this 1.8 engine ?
@@smiddy434 Too late all 27 people who liked the comment tried it and so have I and it works.
So a couple things I wanted to clarify and hopefully help some one. Cleaning sludge with any type of cleaner "can" cause major issues if the sludge plugs oil passages, the oil filter etc. Soooo do this knowing there is a risk of ruining your engine "Bearings etc". An old mechanic trick for ever has been to replace one quart of engine oil with a quart of ATF right before an oil change. Drive a little with the atf and then change oil. Same risks as the seafoam. The non - rebuild fix for this is to replace the lifters. The head has to be pulled so if the engine is not in it's last days of life IE pushing 200k or more it might be worth the cost and effort. The good thing is you end up with a new head gasket, exhaust and intake gasket, fresh coolant, new lifters, cleaned piston tops and whatever other work you do, so it's a refresher of sorts. Putting the seafoam into the intake only cleans inside the combustion chambers (pistons, valves, underside of head, etc and to some extent the intake manifold.) And oh boy it will puke out some smoke! There are tons of videos showing how to do this and also comparing the cleaning effectiveness of seafoam, water, etc. Hope that's helpful
It's called an old trick for a reason. The reason is, you don't do it with any modern production. The conservative course is to simply accelerate the oil change interval. All conventional oils are semisynthetic to a degree even if the label does not indicate that. The solvent properties of the synthetic oil component will gradually dissolve out the sludge without any further intervention. I am not sure that the kind of sludge seen in this video can occur with synthetic oil no matter how long it is left in. I have seen synthetic oil crystallization, which is caused by driving all short trips and leaving the oil in too long. I think synthetic oil forms a sludge about the consistency of chocolate syrup, not the gummy sludge conventional oil forms. Synthetic oil sludge should just dissolve into the fresh oil. If it gets dark early, just change it early.
In an engine where there is coking at this level, there is going to be wear. The lifters take the brunt of the damage, due to their tight tolerances.
In the old days, we mechanics use to treat engines like this using a kerosine flush. We mixed kerosine into the engine oil. This would usually listen up stuck lifters, and it would soften and break up the coking.
…
The process is lengthy but usually results in a working engine that will provide longer service without requiring tear down… maybe…
1- Physically remove as much coking from the cylinder head and valve cover as possible. (Didn’t do that step in this video)
2- Kerosine flush is, 1 pint of Kerosine to the engine oil, run the engine at operating temp (idle) for 15 min, then drain.
The flush requires 3 cycles
Kerosine flush
Run high detergent oil 500 miles
2nd Kerosine flush
Run high detergent oil 1000 miles
3rd Kerosine flush
Run high detergent oil 1000 miles and change oil and filter.
Run the oil 3000 miles changing the filter every 1000 miles. Poor the oil out of the filter and strain it using a white paper towel (bounty), look for chunky bits. If you see chunks, after the 3rd filter change, run the cycle again.
Then back to normal oil changes
…
As the coking breaks down, it becomes trapped in the oil. This is why the cycle and multiple filter changes. Even if you use sea foam instead if kerosine, you should hold to the cycle schedule, or you won’t have good results, as the coking debris will continue to breakup and contaminate the oil.
How does a stuck lifter?Allow the pushrod to come out of the rocker arm.It's more likely a sticking valve allowing the push rod to come out
Great video! That engine needs a steam clean!
While the I-6 in these Jeeps is a major work horse, it definitely requires that the oil and filter is changed at 3k miles, religiously. As you said, the previous owner failed to do that.
The good thing is that those engines are not only easy to rebuild, they are relatively inexpensive to rebuild, even if you add go faster parts to the internals and even some external parts.
I think small engines in general really need to get oil changes every 2-3 thousand miles.
People say that 2k is too little aren’t paying attention to their vehicle’s performance, as soon as the acceleration doesn’t feel smooth and you feel grit it needs to be changed.
Unless of course you do clean your engine with something like seafoam maybe twice a year.
Project farm put seafoam in an engine and within a short time the lifters started working better. Isn’t it possible to change the lifters without a complete rebuild? Chevrolet in-line six engines have side covers to access the lifters.
The exhaust smoke you mentioned is in the "Intake" cleaning method, not the crankcase. You won't get smoke in the exhaust with the crankcase oil method.
I’m wondering if that push rod is a half inch too short or just a couple millimeters if it keeps popping out and did you get them from China or something
after you rebuild it and have the valve guides lined, that flat tappet cammed engine really needs the added benefits of higher zddp levels from a hdeo. valvoline vr1 or rotella t5 10w30 will protect your engine better than oils made for roller cam engines
Use the seafoam upper intake cleaner as well works great. If you haven't dug into the engine yet. Try liqui moly anti friction motor treatment (sku:2009) it will do wonders to your engine. I have a magnum 318 and can't believe the difference since I began using liqui moly every oil change. Good luck!
Rislone engine treatment and royal purple. Had a bmw that ticked like crazy on startup was gonna do the lifters but did the Rislone and royal purple first never did the lifter traded it off.
Sea foam or adding Marvel Mystery Oil and changing the oil on sub 500 mile oil changes while changing oil filters 2 or 3 time? Heard this tried. Doing this a coupe of times might help or perhaps one of those full flushes that your mechanic does.
Easy way to check for Bent pushrod, roll it on a known flat surface like a sheet of glass or a mirror.
If it clicks, its bent.
Sea foam is good stuff. Use as directed. If you want the smoke, buy sea foam in a spray can, and spray it in the intake manifold or carb when the engine is hot. Youre suppose to run the engine with sea foam in the crank case for several miles.
The major smoke comes from running it through the intake and into the cylinders. Putting it into the crankcase will clean the oil system but will not cause the smoke clouds seafoam is famous for.
Anyone hook up a vacuum gauge to an engine with a lifter tick - stuck lifter plunger ? how did the gauge read?
Sounds to me like a rebuild is your best option. I can't think of a way a pushrod would bend that doesn't involve major issues.
A rebuild is in the future....just not sure when.
trans fluid works great for this
It's good stuff! Just don't use too much.🎉🎉
Use the Seafoam Intake Cleaner with Seafoam in the crank case As Well as a can of Seafoam in the tank and I promise you that you'll see smoke. You have to perform all 3 at the same time for maximum results. I do it every 3 months and it changed the life of my engine.
Lol. Here is my opinion.... Use clean oil or assembly lube. You lubed with old dark oil. Wipe the dust off the engine before you get that dust in the valves and engine. Seafoam does not do what you are thinking it does. Any solvent like wd40, kerosene, naptha, even carb cleaner will work as well or better. I would recomend a brass wire brush and carb cleaner to remove the sludge and dark old oil.
I'd be pissed ifu 138k mile motor had pushrods falling out. I would of poured that seafoam into those lifter bores directly out of the can. That stuff won't hurt anything. It's a light oil with Naptha and some other stuff to clean.
Did you ever open it back up and see if the seafoam cleaned any of the sludge?
I’m sure it’s not a miracle cleaner but I’m curious if it helped at all.
Just subscribed, I didn’t see a follow up video (but it is already 2 years old). I took with a lot of high mileage used vehicle too, I’m curious what does and doesn’t work.
I rolled this Jeep so there is no follow up for it. 🙄🫣😁
@@TheBFHGarage 😂, that’s the video I need to be watching!!
Thanks for replying
It's on my channel! Subscribe!
Probably not , but changing your oil on a regular basis can! 😆❤️
My research says to add 1 ounce of seafoam for every quart of oil and run Engine for 60to 100 miles.
you should do a follow up video and pull the valve cover off to see how well it cleaned inside the engine.
My plan is to do a part 2 video. I'm getting some miles on it to make sure it's doing its job. It took about 50 miles and then the ticking and rough run has gone completely away so I'm hoping that was it. Stay tuned!
This was what I was expecting tbh. The thumbnail insinuates this but doesn't actually deliver
@@TheBFHGarage would still like to see a follow up video.
bolts becoming stretched perhaps?
strange video on the results of seafoam. no before and after, no results?
Yeah I know lol. The problem is I rolled that Jeep and totalled it 😂 I was going to do a follow up video using my new jeep.
ATF transmission fluid will clean it and make it run better hands down
I would upgrade the rockers to something more solid
when you add seafoam to the oil it's 1 oz seafoam to 1 qt oil. my truck takes 6 qts of oil so I would add 6 oz of seafoam
Personally I would scoop out some of that pudge then put in regular oil and MMO for a short interval then dump and do it again I’d mix 1part MMO 4 parts regular oil. No need to rebuild it you will want to remove the oil pan and get that gunk out so it doesn’t block the sump.
What is MMO?
@@smigletat9634 Marvels Mystery Oil. It’s an additive. For longer term oil intervals I use Royal Purple motor oil. It’s a bit expensive but does a really good job keeping the engine free of sludge.
One way push-rods come out is that valve is running dry or the spring is weak.AS far as lifter problems,it's hydraulic so the grit in the sludge is not allowing the disc inside it to SEAL ,making it act the same as a solid lifter. MEANING no hydraulic valve LASH auto adjustment.those can make temporary clearance.and the push-rod comes out.OR ,and this is a long shot,the cam lobe is worn round and no longer has the throw it needs.YOU should have turned the crankshaft with a socket by hand AND LOOKED for EXCESSIVE FREE-PLAY at the rocker arm and valve tip.I believe you just have a collapsed lifter,1 qt auto trans fluid in your oil and an hour or two driving around town only may reseal the lifter.if not repeat as needed.haha oh ya and simple green and hose that motor,will ya.haha
What weight of oil do you use?
5w/30
Check cam lobe valve spring. Bent push rod. Impossible for rod to do that.
How did you get rid of the heavy sludge
I rolled the Jeep and parted it out. I wouldn't recommend that to everyone but it was effective! 😂🤣
You aren’t going to get the smoke show unless you run it through the intake via the throttle body or the vacuum line off of the brake booster.
says on the bottle to NOT run through brake booster lines.
Probably should’ve been using Rotella semi Synthetic 5W 40 since day one and a Fram ultras synthetic filter and change the oil every 6000 miles or so. It may be that lifter bucket is messed up and that’s why it keeps popping out.
Also drain some oil out and put atf back. It will help
How do the heads look now??
Haven't looked. I'm kind of ignoring it for now 😁
Get some 20w50 oil do half oil and half diesel or keronese run the engine for a few hours drive aound if possible, drain and fill and repeat process, best thing to desludge the engine is a pure petroleum product hope this helps!
is there a link to part two?
There isn't a part two yet
The rod straight but the ball on the end is flattened on the left hand side from his perspective
Torque spec on a valve cover is until it doesn’t leak with the old gasket lol
I realize this is an older video, but I searched your main page and did not see any follow up video to this one.
Why not do a kerosene flush to break down all that oil sludge. I've heard it's alot stronger to break down oil sludge and carbon build up and it's safe on an engine.
There are a lot of different ways....ATF is another👍
wow you should do some voice over work great sounding voice
the pushrod was out of place so there might be a sticky valve issue
I agree, there is no way the pushrod could get out of place due to a sticking lifter. The valve has to stick in the open position in order for there to be enough slack in the valve train to allow the push rod out from under the rocker arm.
If you're torquing to 85 in-lb as said, the nuts are probably going to come off the stud. You did caption the correct 21 ft-lb, though.
Your video is confusing the use of seafoam in the oil and fuel. Putting a third of the can in the. Shutting it down to soak is usually for the fuel to let it work on the deposits on the valves. It won't smoke if you put it into the crank case?
Run it in your oil, I'd put that whole can in.
My CJ did that, but it had close to 500k on it, just rebuilt it.
Id love to see an updated under the valve cover video!
In good time! I'm not expecting much change😁
@MaxedOut4Real no, I rolled my Jeep and totaled it😂
No additive is going to stop pushrods from jumping off or staying in the rocker arm. Must have bad lifter, springs and adjuster nut issues.
Am I lucky.... my TJ has over 235,000 miles , I have owned it about 7 years. I've done a lot to it, including the dreaded safety caps on the frame, upper rear spring mounts, and torque box repairs, and a lot of other stuff. As far as the engine goes , for the first time since owning it, i changed the spark plugs a few days ago. Only changed the starter once, and replaced the power steering, radiator, and heater blower motor, done a little axel work on it, but as far as the engine, it's been bullet proof. Oh, I did change the rear main seal also.
I question the use of solvents in engines with visible sludge in the valve area. You will notice, the sludge was in the inert areas, not in the working areas. My opinion is, simply accelerate the oil change interval. Most of the time, for people who watch these kind of videos, the vehicle is going to be a recently purchased used vehicle or something that belongs to a friend, neighbor or relative. The big thing to keep in mind, is that you cannot reverse the wear that has occurred already due to neglected maintenance through the use of any additive. There are different mechanical theories but some qualified sources favor the same theory I do and they point to the problems that could occur if sludge came loose, notably that oil passage could be blocked. I even suffered that once.
My DIYer argument is even simpler though. It ran even with the sludge in it. Why do anything special to it? You can use synthetic oil in any engine just about, but if conventional was original, just use semisynthetic, the lowest weight the manual says is allowed. The solvent properties of the synthetic oil will start to dissolve out the sludge. Don't bother with pulling the oil pan unless there is evidence that it is necessary. Above all, don't run the engine with diesel fuel in place of the motor oil. Other people tell you to run the engine with transmission fluid in the crankcase or even kerosene. Do it with your stock '57 Chevy or your great grandfather's 90-year-old tractor if you want. Not with any modern engine.
Especially don't do anything with diesel fuel unless you have some way to store and dispose of the contaminated diesel fuel you are going to create.
The world is full of fools, smart alecks, know-it-alls and people who like to play Dr. Doom. Don't listen to them. If something sounds drastic, it probably is.
1:43 that’s where you messed up, buying a jeep 😂
Seafoam says 1 oz per 1 quart of oil.
Use marvel mystery oil in the oil
I’m at 20 miles and lifter still ticking
I lost two engines using stupid sludge remover I guess it blocks oil passages be carefull
Ever heard of regular oilchanges to keep that from happening?
I do regular oil changes. That was from the previous owner. 👍
Purrs like a kitten for now
Fingers crossed.....
It only smokes when you use alot in the gas not oil.
seafoam is just diesel and ipa mix 9:1
Also collapsed lifter.
sounds like your valves are getting stuck in the valve guides rather than a lifter issue
The pushrod has come out three times now. I think it's time for a rebuild. Just trying to get through the season🤬
@@TheBFHGarage yeah I understand the frustration of mechanical issues they plague me quite often as well lol only reason i say possibly valve guides is because your push rod falls out which usually indicates the valve is becoming stuck open in the guide or if it gets stuck closed it will bend the pushrod usually a stuck lifter wont allow the pushrod to fall out anyways good luck also your videos are awesome keep up the good work👍
@5:30 you said inch pound 2x and at 10:15 you said foot#s. Both for rockers and covers.
Yes I did, but corrected it later in the video. My mind must've been on auto pilot that day lol.
85 inch pounds, just tighten them down till they get easy then backup half a turn! 😆
If your watching this use BG engine flush
Kind of look like michael keaton 😂
Where's the follow up? Been over two years
This Jeep was rolled and totaled.
You never finished the end of the seafoam test in another video.
I rolled my Jeep and destroyed it😂
That seems to happen a lot with Jeeps!@@TheBFHGarage
I don't know why people bother with seafoam and other nonsense, just add half diesel fuel half reg oil and run it for a week... Brand new
When i got my truck I used diesel to flush out all the sludge
I've heard of that too
If you look at the SDS for Seafoam products, you will see that all use the exact same chemicals used since its creation in 1932 by a fisherman for his 2 stroke motorboat engine. The only difference is the marketing. Different bottles making different usage claims.
Ingredients:
50% Pale oil. Upper cylinder lube
30% Naphtha. Solvent/paint thinner
20% Isopropanol. Rubbing alcohol used for water dispersal.
Is this the best product for engine seals? It’s difficult to prove either way, but I can’t imagine isopropanol doing anything good between moving engine parts. Because it’s only 30% solvent It’s not going to do a lot in a short period of time.
Also that smoke you’re referring to is not carbon buildup. It’s the 50% pale oil burning off that was sucked into the intake. Seafoam does clean a little bit. But that white smoke has nothing to do with the cleaning. You are fogging your catalytic converter with pale oil though.
Try a can of BG EPR #109. It literally melts engine sludge.
Bro I bought a can of this to get rid of my sludge and then I saw the instructions said to not use on enginges woth excessive sludge. I don't know at what point it becomes "excessive".
@@BrianAndersonTT When you take off the valvecover and have another one underneath it form out of sludge 😁
😁🙄😁
Wow, the original owner must have never changed the oil at all. What a waste.
What happened to your index finger dude?
Kickback on a table saw.
@@TheBFHGarage
Damn. Sorry, man.
Run some atf fluid man
Where's the follow up?
My goal was to go through several treatments and then give an overall impression.
@@TheBFHGarage So it didnt need and is running fine. When you change the oil it would be great to know the visual aspect and color of it.
@@tomasnokechtesledger1786 no visual difference when I changed it out.
@@TheBFHGarage So, it didn't clean enough? Have you let the used oil to settle a few weeks to see if made deposits at the bottom of the container?
@@tomasnokechtesledger1786 I'm not looking to do an oil analysis, I just want to see if my Jeep runs better. It was doing pretty good all summer long but if I let it sit for a long time it will run a little rough. Work in progress.
85 inch pounds is 7 ft pounds
At that low of a torque it's better to use an in/lbs torque wrench for accuracy although this isn't as critical as internal engine components.
Nice no point video.
I gave you thumbs down for click bait.. you never showed any results.. why TH-camrs have not many subs
Results take time....I have a lot of irons in the fire right now.
Hear what it looks like that doesn’t make any sense
All talk and very little action. I dont know why people filming themselfes on youtube have not yet realized that viewers are overflowed with all the talking. Car engines, just tell what u wanna do and DO IT. Stop talking for 40 minutes!
Glad I could help! 😂🤣
It’s supposed to be foot pounds pay attention to what you’re saying
Depends on what you're talking about. Both ft/lbs and in/lbs are used.
That rods a knockin. Seafoam won't fix that lol
This video has nothing to do with seafoam, thumbs down.
LS swap lol
Yeah baby....$$$
Or......don't buy a Jeep😅
If people would just use a high quality FULL synthetic oil and FRAM filter, with 20,000 mile OCI, would be no sludge issues! Don’t overthink this stuff people!
I bought mine in this condition. Most people who have these jeeps are more than likely not the first owners.
Are you kidding me?! there is no way you are serious, you must be trolling. A fram filter with a 20,000 mile change interval are you crazy!?? First of all fram filters are the most horrible filters money can buy they are such garbage quality, open one up it will literally have rust flakes in it from the factory. Also 20,000 mile oil change interval?!!! Even with synthetic oil you should NEVER go anywhere near 20,000 miles. Not a single oil filter is even rated for 20,000 miles. Change your oil every 3000 miles with regular conventional oil and max you should do with synthetic is 7.5k but you should change synthetic every 6k to be on the safe side. You could have a leak or your car burns oil and you would never know it until it gets dangerously low and blows up your engine. Plus if you drive your car hard, change synthetic every 6k. Go watch videos where owners of new cars with factory synthetic filled videos and oem quality filters neglect their car and change it after 20k the engine is filled with sludge, the insides of the engine is pitch black and the car turns into a huge oil burner the rest of its life.
@@TheBFHGarage why did you not tell the guy his 20,000 mile oil change interval is crazy? Viewers of your channel could see it and end up destroying their engines.
@@mohamadhamad770 I completely agree with you!
@@mohamadhamad770 I just reread and noticed I didn't catch the 20,000 mile suggestion... Yeah....ummm..... Not a chance.
Seafome will not repair a bad engine!!!! It’s only intended to b a preventive maintenance additive, so this is bull crap!!!!
Not bull crap! I agree it will not repair a bad engine, but can you get additional life out of it? Look at @projectfarm and see what it did for his truck! My Jeep? Not so much. It's gone now anyway😂