My older brother joined Mensa on the first try when he was 19. He then proceeded to drive his Audi without changing the engine oil for 100,000 miles ! I'm now 73 and reminding him of it never got old.
Worked at a oil change shop in 2002 a customer always awent to Jiffy lube for his oil change in a BMW, he decided to try my shop we start draining the oil and I pulled out the canister filter and it was completely full of hard black tar oil gunk just packed in and took forever to clean it out. I showed the customer and he didn't understand what I was showing him and he said "The guys at jiffy lube told me my car doesn't have a oil filter." customer been taking his BMW to the jiffy lube since it was brand new. He called and of course they denied everything, on the recites there was no filter number or charge. We earned a customer for life that day.
Lol a car with no oil filter lol. They thinking of lawn mower engines lol. But hey the way everything is now sealed for life it wouldnt surprise me if soon engines become sealed for life and need a new engine every 3 to 5 yrs
Quick Lube shops are the worst, because they hire young guys just trying to get through college and party on the weekend.😂😂 My neighbor went to Take 5 and they forgot to put oil back in her engine. The only reason they noticed is because the engine started ticking and the manager told her to shut it off.
I would have drained all the old nasty oil first and changed the filter. Then add some cheapy bulk oil and the oil flush treatment. Then run the engine for 20-30 minutes. That might have worked better considering the oil in there was pretty sludged-up. Then drain the cheapy oil and pour in some new oil and a new filter. That way the customer is driving with reasonably clean oil for the next 3,000 miles. I totally agree with the 3,000 mile follow up on this one.
I probably would’ve too, but from what I read, high-quality synthetics, will clean out the engine better most likely the next oil change will be dirty anyway.
As a person who has gotten busy and done a few 9,000 - 10,000 mile oil changes on old dinosaur juice on my own vehicles, I can say that just a single oil change interval like that does not cause sludge issues. There's probably been some 20,000 mile intervals over the years.
He's 10k+ past the recommended oil change, dealerships usually do 5k miles for a recommended oil change which means he's been driving 15k miles without an oil change, that will gunk up he oil on Hyundai's.
@@victorribak5963 It'll gunk up any engine out there. Just walk through the self-serve junkyards and glance at the engines that have valve covers removed. Sludged engines are everywhere. Work in the used car department at a dealer somewhere. Countless trade-ins come in with no oil showing on the stick. I shouldn't complain. People like this make me a lot of money.
So sweet to have a good wife. Married for 47 years and my wife still loves me. We are lucky to have that ride or die best buddy. Good work wife unit. We see who is the rock the glue and the protector. Bravo. Nice work team Ray.
The rainmen keeps her laughing ...and that keeps them around longer ..it always helps to start your own business too ,instead of making your employer get that money...better off if your wife gets it all That rainmen he ain't no dummy
The sticker shown at 0:12 says date: 2/4/21, which means the last oil change was 3 years ago. So that right there explains the sludge. Furthermore, if that sticker is actually a "due date" for the next oil change, that would mean this would be a 20K oil change and based on the date, indicates the last oil change was done 4 years ago!
Thank you! This makes sense. I was just going to say this doesn’t look like 10k mile oil. I mean 10k mile oil would be dirty for sure but not THIS sludgy.
@@hk5288most full synthetics are generally fine upto 10k no problem. Time is also an important factor which as you can see it’s been Atleast 3 years since the last oil change.
Agreed, that isn’t 10k oil. I’m running 10k intervals with my wife’s Nissan rogue using mobile 1 extended that they say is good for 20k. The oil is still a nice bronze color at 10k when I change it. Never black like that. That’s gotta be more like 20k, and years old, plus a life of very long drain intervals.
You will be hard pressed to find a shop who puts 10k miles on the next due date, they want you back there as often as possible. My dealership puts 3k on standard and 5k on full synthetic.
Hey Ray, I’m no auto mechanic, but when I get into something w snap/tabs like that door switch, I will release them and slide a playing card in once they are released. This keeps them released and lets you work on the other ones without them snapping back in. Not sure if this would have helped you in this case, but it’s an inexpensive way to buy a couple extra hands to hold the tabs. Love your stuff, be well young man!!
Made a believer out of my son about oil changes after he had to replace his motor in his pickup . Oil changes are the cheapest and easiest preventive maintenance you can do for your motor . As you were working to get that switch out I was wanting to give you a hand so badly . Stay safe , have fun . Oh Lauren was a big help on this one .
That's fresh. Was just told this week by a Gentleman that's been in the Automotive business for 50 years about a recent service at his shop. This particular customer hadn't had their oil changed since 2020 .... & 16,000+ miles.
Hi Ray, on those tabs holding that part in the door, I have always pushed a piece of thin cardboard (normally the box lid off the new part) into the the side that I unhooked so they do not re-engage. Then work the inside.
Actually I use plastic from 2liter bottles to do the same trick with all the clips that hold gauge clusters together. I do back light repairs and mods on them.
In the words of Bugs Bunny, “it’s da suspense that gets ya”. I sometimes shove flat pieces of plastic in once I get tabs popped out so they don’t lock again while trying to get the other tabs. I really appreciate that you don’t just ignore stuff you see (like the sludge) and actually do something instead of just doing the minimum. Sign of a great mechanic.
He loves to upsell his engine cleaning stuff....and does it on engines that arent sludged up.He likes it when engines are like this cuz he makes more money...sign of a great mechanic.
I seriously don't understand how come ANYONE would treat their vehicle this way, and not care about important maintenance like an oil change. What's cheaper, a MOTOR or an OIL CHANGE?😮
Some people truly don't understand anything about cars. Or have 1,000 other things going on in their life so it's not a priority. It's an expensive lesson to learn...
For years I worked for a company that changed the oil in their Dodge Vans at 20,000 miles with a filter change at 10,000 miles, we NEVER had an oil related problem and ran most of those vans 300,00 to 400,000 miles before trading them off. Now the difference was that almost all of these miles were highway miles and we ran full synthetic oil, most vans got between 80,000 to 100,000 miles every year. When we switched to Dodge Trucks with the 5.9 Cummins Diesel we used Mobil Delvac 1 Synthetic Oil specifically made for diesel engines and used the oil drain interval to 25,000 miles, again no issues putting 300,000 to 400,000 miles on each truck. My company truck had a close call with the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin) where the pin fell between the timing gears and the aluminum timing cover cracking the cover and causing a major oil leak, this was around 220,000 miles and the mechanic was amazed at how clean the engine was on the inside. Would I run extended oil drain intervals on a modern engine? Absolutely not because of the increased amount of exhaust gas recirculation used for emissions and the increased use of plastic/nylon parts inside engines today and that is even more important on modern Diesel Engines which will “Soot Up” if allowed to idle excessively or just driven around town and never driven long enough to heat up and burn off the soot.
Use zip ties on the outer side, so it won't tab in again, and then work the other side. Don't remove the zip ties until the new part is in and correctly placed. After making sure everything is done correctly, remove the zip ties. You could use something like an expired credit card as well, but since it's a moving piece of tool it is difficult to keep it in place. Have yourself a great day Ray, Lauren and Dave.
you gotta be joking he upsold a bs cleaner that is gonna harm the engine more. that person could barely afford gas and instead of him explaining to the customer the severity of the issue he sold them snake oil so they come back again when it totally breaks.
@@dejan4666What you're on about...Ray's as honest a mechanic as they come and that cleaner is designed specifically for that. So what's better then...no flush and leave all that gunk in? You're the one who isn't serious...
One of my dad’s pieces of life advice to me was to always keep up with the oil changes in the vehicles. Apparently folks don’t tell their kids that any more.
I always remind my wife and Daughter I'll say how many miles on the oil change we do 5,000 mile synthetic they go you are obsessed but we all have are issues
I feel like its more on the cheap bastards who go, “Oh the oil and filter are rated to 10k so im going to ignore the 3k or 5k service interval.” All to save what 40-50 bucks if even that
@@djasseater2262 i'm 1 of those cheap bastards u r talking about... i went 3 yrs, 2 mos & 2 days going 23,671 miles & hav no issues wut so ever w/my '16 lexus now @ 77K... so u do NOT believe any1 can develop a nu product that can DO MORE than older or just plain real oil ? ? ? AMSOIL started in 1972 as the 1st synthetic APPROVED by the API... if it were so bad they wood b out of business by now, don't u think ? ? ? by the way, GOOD products cost $$$ my boss, a livery driver, also, has a '10 prius w/over 375K & has NO / ZERO sludge in his engine... only runs AMSOIL since he got it w/just under 90K... yes, i use & sell AMSOIL... 🤑
My favorite oil is Redline. It has an excellent ZDDP package and the only oil you can hear how much better the engine runs. if you put some between your fingers it feels like liquid plastic. Been using it for around 40 years and many many cars they all ran better. Its the oil engine oil that will fix a Hemi tick. Its not cheap.
In situations like that with spring fittings I use to free up one side, insert a thin piece of plastic ( credit card) on the released clips to stop them re-engaging, then flip out the other side as I pulled on it, worked a treat everytime @Rainmen Ray's Repairs
I have this same Hyundai Sonata, the engine seized at 89K miles. Turns out that specific engine is under a lifetime warranty from Hyundai/Kia due to a $3Billion class action lawsuit stemming from a manufacturing defect where the engine was not deburred correctly and metal bits were getting into the bearings. The lifetime warranty also applies to the NEW engine too! (as long as it is properly maintained) Nice video - good to see Lauren and Dave more!!!
So basically if you own that car you can just redline it at stoplights whenever you want and then when it eventually blows up you can just get a new engine?
Need to get this oil change behind them, put a few thousand miles on clean oil. Assuming that they have no access to old stuff, like this. If it failed right now, the warranty would almost certainly not be honored.
Good call to have the customer come back in 3k for another oil change. Surprised that engine isn’t obviously damaged. I like that you’re slowly incorporating Dave into your videos. He seems like a great guy. Let us know how the little Chinese car is doing 😁👍
Ray. I am Old School being as I am 80 years old. When I had a car that needed an engine flush, after completion, I always added 1 quart of ATF in place of 1 quart regular oil to help clean the engine. You and the wife unit are priceless.
Mineral oil works fine as well. That's always been a good remover as far as sludge. Even some diesel fuel, but you don't run it more than maybe twenty minutes at low rom
If it clogs up the oil pickup due to massive sludge beeing freed up, you are going to have a bad time :D Better dissolve it slowly over a few thousand miles.
@@tschuuuls486Just bought a GMC w/ 5.1L where ‘dynamic’ lifters are prone to clogging and failure. What do you suggest as a longer clean to avoid clogging the lifters? thnx
@@bhagmeister probably just full synthetic with good cleaning properties (has something to with the ester content of the base oil) and a decent additive package. And just change the oil every 6k miles. But I'm not familiar what exactly goes wrong with that exact engine. I just hopped in a oil forum and read up on my engine and looked at the suggestions vs price per liter :D
@@bhagmeister A zinc additive or a good oil that contains a lot of zinc is what you need for lifters. This kind of oil is actually the best you can use for breaking in a cam as well.
You are the best automobile service provider I have ever seen. I truly believe the way you work should be studied by EVERYONE who wants to be a professional mechanic. It should be mandatory! I sincerely hope I can find a mechanic half as thorough as you to bring my Monte Carlo back to life. Continue to be great. You have a subscriber for as long as you have this channel.
And he’s showing his greatness by reusing old drain plug with old crush gasket and not torquing it to spec. How many times that door trim touched the ground? Only thing he needed was to disconnect those cables…
Whenever the customer says they don't remember when the last oil change was, you can expect the worst. That must be some good stuff you use for the flush. Only problem is, that person will neglect the oil changes again. You can bring a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. You would have had less trouble with the switch if you would have taken a thin tool and pushed through the outside (top of switch), you would have popped it right out. Good video, thanks for sharing.
But there was a dead giveaway of when the last oil change was done. Have a look at the start and the 'next service due' sticker and under the distance due (87,000), there is a date of when due of 2/4/21, so allowing for that being February (in most of the world, that would mean April - but I digress), that means it's 35 months overdue, which explains the sludge and why customer can't remember.
Dear Ray i know the problem with them damn tabs. My solution was to grind the edge on my screwdriver so it was very sharp. Made it much more easy to get it behind the tabs.
I got a 2002 Silverado from the stepson. He said his dad changed the oil regularly. I thought I had better do an oil change on it since it was having a little lifter noise. It finally took a 24 inch pipe wrench to get the filter off. The filter was the worst I'd ever seen. Completely full of grease consistency sludge. Wow. It was amazing that something didn't seize up. It's still running great now at 230000 miles.
Man... You are keeping a blistering video upload schedule... Dont forget the "me"/ family time. There's a reason so many TH-camrs burn out after while. Love your channel, and Ive been watching every day for the last couple years! KTF!
GOOD day to you, Ray. Tip on the door switch release tabs. Cut a business card into strips. Then, slide a strip under each tab as they are released so that they do not relock. Love your videos, thank you.
For those type of clips. I have found that cutting a soda can in strips helps remove them. Use pritool to move the clip back, insert can strip, do same for the others. Pops right out.
Hey Ray, I'm a technician for electronics and I know your pain with them clips. If you use flat metal spacers and shove one in each tab area, you can pull whatever you want out without the other clips going back.
Back in 1985 , I once met an guy who was selling a 1976 Chevy Pickup . He was so proud of the fact that Everything on it was ORIGINAL ! He even said that the Oil was the " Original Factory Oil " although when it got a little low , he would add some.. 🤪
Yep. Lots of TH-cams showing how much gunk some Hyundai engines (2011-16?) collected. The engines naturally gunked up then owners liked to skip oil changes, a deadly combo. Some were due to shavings left in the engine during assembly, others were due to excess blow-by, per the class-actions suits. The "fix" is sometimes to pull/clean the pan and valve cover, flush/change a second time. The vids say the customer is due back in 500 miles for another flush/change but you can guess how many owners follow up.
GDI only engine. I won't buy GDI without port injection vehicles. Or turbo engines. Or mechanical CVT transmissions. I like the Toyota 2.5 liter hybrid system. Port and GDI injection. No turbos. No sleazy mechanical CVT. Great fuel economy.
@mikep490 agreed, Hyundai engines don't need help with building up sludge, but I have worked one a number of Hyundai engines, and yeah they have issues for sure.
Very good, Ray, Dave and Lauren! It's a pleasure to see a shop run smoothly with everybody working well together. Thank you all for taking us along on your workday.
I could NEVER flat rate at my age. I can only work by hour, and on classics. I've got a Theta II engine in my car too. 3500 miles is my oil change interval. I like your process to bring this one back.
Not that you necessarily care, I have the same engine and do 7500 mile oci. All the oil analysis have been good and Blackstone says do 10k. I drive almost all highway though. It does burn about 1qt over that time. Always has since I bought it with 22k on it. Cheers.
@@martyhall9904You'd probably burn less oil if your oci were done more frequently. Also, adding an additive like Lucas or Redline would also help slow that consumption. Good luck.
On non computer type engines we fill the crank case with diesel and let it sit overnight. Drain amd add new oil, pull plugs and turn over to ensure no hydrolock. Run it up and down the street a few times then fresh oil change again. Works great on stuff that has been sitting with nasty oil for 40 years.
Personal satisfaction with this one - watching Ray struggle and thinking: 'he's going to bend that driver for leverage.' Sure enough, driver bent! The number of 'specially engineered' tools that exist for 'that one job' would be incredible. Also love that Dave is designated timekeeper so that you all go home and have proper down time. Great team, great atmosphere, wonderful content on many levels. Cheers for that. ❤
I have a Hyundai with a 2.0 turbo GDI engine. I change it every 3,000 miles because those GDI engines are notorious for sludging up (that’s what my dealership says and I’ve read a lot on those things) and it’s a Hyundai so you play it safe.
First thing I do when I remove the caliper is with my smooth edge needle nose is lift the piston boot up and have look at the condition of piston, looking for any rust. Your thoughts Eric. 50 years working on vehicles, red seal in 1980, kept up with as much training I could. Also owned my own shop in small town in Saskatcewan for 12 years. I am still working 4 days a week and turning 69 in 2 months. I struggle with my hands but still get it done. What I want you to know coming from this old guy is that I am still learning everytime I watch your vidios, thank you for what you do.
Don’t feel too bad, Ray. I, too, a rank amateur driveway mechanic, oiled myself just as you did. But, with much fresher oil!! Glad to see things going well for y’all!! Keep up the good work!!
Happy to see you always take excellent care of your customers and to see Lauren join in. If I lived close enough, you would definitely be my go to place for automotive service.
I have a 1957 Chev. Bel Air convertible I bought new for $2795. CAD with a 283 , with a manual transmission in 1958, ( I didn't like the look of the 58!) In 1972 I replaced that engine with a 350 small block, new from GM, and a M22 Transmission I'm a former, retired Journeyman GM Partsman with 40 years experience. I still drive it all summer and store it inside in winter,( I live in Canada). I use and still use Quaker State oil and religiously change oil every 5000 miles. On every 7th oil change I replace one quart of oil with one quart of automatic transmission fluid. I keep track of every oil change in my cars journal and repair history. And NO, before you ask, the car is NOT for sale. I'm 82 now and still drive it. What happens to it after I'm gone? I don't care, but I would be funny to be around to see the kids, grand kids and great grand kids fight over it. LOL
I have a Hyundai Sonata hybrid that has about 110,000 miles on it. It looks and runs like new. I change the oil every 4k and the engine still runs fine. Very quiet and smooth. My only concern is that the hybrid battery is probably near the end of its life because my mileage has dropped significantly from about 47 mpg to about 37 mpg. Fortunately for me, I have a lifetime warranty on the hybrid battery as the original owner of the vehicle. I have yet to replace the brakes or exhaust system. This has been one of the best vehicles I’ve ever owned and I’m almost 80 years old and have owned over 20 vehicles.
Unreal! Ray cares more about vehicles than the owner! Thanks for keeping an eye out for us ray! Dont let them get away with 10k more mile oil change! Shame on them!
Have used Amsoil since 1996 , and that put an end to rebuilding the engine after 100000 miles , before I used penzoil , usually kept the cars for 5 years and put about 500000 miles on each . amsoil saved me a ton of money.
Heres a tip for doing that switch the quick way....Two 2" wide putty knives one on each side to do the front 4 pins and two small screwdrivers for the last 2 and also you push on the whole switch from the other side.................
Reading the below replies regarding how to help remove that electric window switch, all great suggestions on how to get past the clips. Love the advice from some of your readers. Was a shame to see the condition of that engine/oil. Hope the cleaning efforts work. Love watching Lauren assist, she's good at it...a pleasure seeing you two work together.
with those clips that go back and forth- one locks back up if going to the other side - I like to stick a nonuseable credit card in the harder to access clip. It prevents the lock up, and is flexible. it also tends to break before you would break something sensitive if you mess up.
One tip I've heard about plastic connectors is to push together before trying to unfasten the retaining clips. (Pushing together removes some, if not all of the pressure against them.) Then while keeping the fastening clips undone, pull the plug apart. In this case the "plug" was the driver door switches. Lastly, a long piece of thin metal, like a drywall putty knife would pry multiple fastening clips away at the same time. Undoing one at a time can be very frustrating.
another idea for you (I'm a retired electronics engineer and came up against similar frustrations. I finally "modified" a putty knife to get to dumb weird angles behind other parts! Saved my sanity a bunch of times!!
GDI (Gas Direct Inject) engines need their oil changed actually more often. As you've seen the Equinox on this channel many times I followed the oil life monitor. So the first few years of my car I went 6-7K miles but I used Mobil 1 every time. I also used Mobil 1 or K&N filters with a filter magnet since new. I've since changed to Amsoil/Pennzoil Platinum, and now at 174K miles I'm using SuperTech (it did ok on another channel's oil testing). During the summer I'll go back to Pennzoil due to the heat. Also changing the trans fluid every 20K miles. Yes, might seem like a waste but compared to the cost of a rebuilt transmission it's a small fee to pay.
@@CollinMac96 I have read it. The trans failed at 149k miles. Rebuilt, used gm fluid, started to slip again at 170k miles. Exchanged the fluid, like new again. Florida heat isn't great for ATF.
These engines are junky not denying that, but I still think this is half the issue with the hyundai/kia engines blowing up. I've got 100k on my 17 Sonata and it's had 3k mile oil changes since new. It doesn't burn oil at all. Might blow up tomorrow lol. Who knows. But I think proper maintenance helps at least.
@@asianstud7 never needed one sorry. Still have the original at 115k now. If it's failed due to the rod bearing failure, you should be able to take it to the dealer and have it covered. As long as the knock sensor update was done, and it hasn't been neglected. If it's not rod bearing failure though, they aren't going to cover it unless you're still under the 10yr/100k powertrain warranty.
for the door switch...feeler gages. pry open the tabs, stick in a thick enough feeler gages and work your way around the unit. by the time you pop the last tab, the unit pulls out. been using this trick for about a decade after a similar situation on my own vehicle. i had the luxury of stopping, having a lung dart and think of a solution and feeler gages is what i came up with. now when i hit my local pawn shops i always grab feeler gages rusty or not. hope this helps someone. thanks ray.
Ray as a ex Mechanic ive been there were door switches when worked for Renault UK in Liverpool were i still live.Never give up trying no matter how long it gets.Paul...
“If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always got.”- Henry Ford...... Would've been interesting to see an oil analysis on this one. Was there anything left at all of the additive package? 😗
@lightningstrikestwice6302 reality, many of us old guys look out for every young person in the family. I pay to change oil in grand children cars when they argue its a waste.
It is also that they don't want to know car care, they're treating cars as disposable. Fine if you are wealthy, if not, we'll your future financial and retirement picture may be ugly.
I was cheering you on with the switch module! Glad to see it successfully pulled and replaced! Thanks to Lauren too! Great work! I'll look forward to an update on the sludge situation. New subscriber!
I have a Hyundai Elantra. Been there, done that, same challenges! If I remember correctly, two screw drivers wedged and left in place on back side, then pop front loose😊
Pro Tip on that kind of thing. When you pry it open to keep it from closing, slide a playing card down in it when payed open. It will keep it from relatching
1.) Nice having a camera person/mirror positioning tech handy. Makes for nice video and saves you time setting up the camera 4 times to get angles. 2.) If this oil change is 10k late, how late were the prior ones? Could only be the 4th or 5th change on a 100k car. Lot of sludge there. 3.) My (unofficial) thinking is that if you change oil at regular intervals with the right grade, and change the filter, it shouldn’t matter what brand of oil you use, if it is a quality brand. Especially if you clock the oil cap correctly so the writing is aligned 😊 4.) Did I really just number/bullet point my comments?
Ray as bad as that sludge oil was I m surprise that you didn’t drop the oil pan(because there isn’t anything blocking it from coming off).The oil filter was probably on bypass. Have a good day Ray
Little tip here. We used to use two different transmission funnels for transmission and engine oil fills. We'd use one transmission funnel like it is for adding transmission fluid and for the other transmission funnel we'd a few inches off the small end, opening up the hole some to allow for faster engine oil fills. Try it you'll like it.
Next time, squeeze and unhook the door release cable so you aren't juggling the door panel tethered to the cable, Grab a couple of business cards to shove into the clips as you release them. The bent screwdriver was spot on. A must for this fix.
We watched the whole thing, and it was well worthwhile. Especially your struggle with the door switch-- proof that simple success is not always simple.
I would have drained the old crap oil out, replaced the filter and refilled it with any cheap oil before using the BG EPR. The additive would have had a better chance dealing with the remaining sludge before replacing the filter and oil again. Also, you missed the opportunity to mention that AMS oil is 100% synthetic oil and that "full synthetic" oil is not synthetic oil at all but highly refined dino juice.
I hear everyone knocking 10k oil changes but ive been doing them for about 6 years, all my cars have done 100k to 150k miles, I also send the oil on the off to be tested every 40k all the test comeback that its fine and it's still had more mileage i could have gone. I do use Mobile 1 25k full synthetic and use their 25k filters, and do 10k oil changes. City and Hwy useage on the Cars.
Ray, next time you run into a door switch like that, a thin piece of aluminium can be cut to fit the entire hidden side (bent as necessary to fit behind the tab holder). Lever the entire holder off the tabs then slide the aluminum down in front of the tabs to prevent re-engagement. Unclip the front tabs & Bob's yer uncle. Recently changed a pwr window switch on an Altima. Took longer to get the panel off the door than to get the switch out. FIL been driving around for 2 yrs unable to lower the driver window. New switch was under $40. He's an A&P (airplane mech). Gave him a hard time about it..... 😅
Well actually no they aren't. All you do is slide a thin piece of plastic or indeed metall inside each if the catches and it virtually drops out. I cannot believe I watched an experienced mechanic do that.
I know a guy who did the automotive service treadmill until journeyman. Then, switched immediately to heavy equipment. Once journeyman on HE, he made very, very good money.
Anytime I have tabs like that that lock back in. Take a strip of cardboard the thickness like you would find on a box of latex gloves. Slip that into the side you have already pry'd to keep it open. Then work on the opposing side. Good to go. Love your channel! BTW your curse control is exemplary!!!
@ryans413 I use one. My problem is that it gets dirty and transfers the dirt to the interior side of my windshield. I just fling it around my car which is on me. Do you fold it up everytime or have other care tips?
@@stevenkerwin4041 mine just held on by Velcro so when I need to clean it I just pull it off wash it with a hose and some soap and a brush. Mine is just carpet it’s not any fancy material. But it really has been useful for keeping my dash pristine from the sun. My older car the plastic started melting and it became all sticky it was a mess.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
My older brother joined Mensa on the first try when he was 19. He then proceeded to drive his Audi without changing the engine oil for 100,000 miles ! I'm now 73 and reminding him of it never got old.
Thought about joining Mensa but the looks I got when I found errors they had made changed that
I'm surprised the engine lasted so long
@@jst_TVimagine if he did the oil changes that car could have been one of those million mile vehicles like that notorious Volvo and Toyota
I know that's a lie because the Audi could not have gone 100,000 before failing even with oil changes.....
@@2605155 that was probably 50 years ago ( by authors age), they would have gone out if business again if they were that bad back then
Worked at a oil change shop in 2002 a customer always awent to Jiffy lube for his oil change in a BMW, he decided to try my shop we start draining the oil and I pulled out the canister filter and it was completely full of hard black tar oil gunk just packed in and took forever to clean it out. I showed the customer and he didn't understand what I was showing him and he said "The guys at jiffy lube told me my car doesn't have a oil filter." customer been taking his BMW to the jiffy lube since it was brand new. He called and of course they denied everything, on the recites there was no filter number or charge. We earned a customer for life that day.
Lol a car with no oil filter lol. They thinking of lawn mower engines lol. But hey the way everything is now sealed for life it wouldnt surprise me if soon engines become sealed for life and need a new engine every 3 to 5 yrs
Quick Lube shops are the worst, because they hire young guys just trying to get through college and party on the weekend.😂😂
My neighbor went to Take 5 and they forgot to put oil back in her engine. The only reason they noticed is because the engine started ticking and the manager told her to shut it off.
weird, those filters were cheap and very easy to change back then
@@shawnkelly695 shit riding mowers have oil filters as well
I meant the push mowers not riding mowers.
I would have drained all the old nasty oil first and changed the filter. Then add some cheapy bulk oil and the oil flush treatment. Then run the engine for 20-30 minutes. That might have worked better considering the oil in there was pretty sludged-up. Then drain the cheapy oil and pour in some new oil and a new filter. That way the customer is driving with reasonably clean oil for the next 3,000 miles. I totally agree with the 3,000 mile follow up on this one.
Agree.
I probably would’ve too, but from what I read, high-quality synthetics, will clean out the engine better most likely the next oil change will be dirty anyway.
I would also put fresh oil in the new oil filter before putting it on the engine
100% right thing to do.
so long as you can bill the customer for the extra oil/time
As a person who has gotten busy and done a few 9,000 - 10,000 mile oil changes on old dinosaur juice on my own vehicles, I can say that just a single oil change interval like that does not cause sludge issues. There's probably been some 20,000 mile intervals over the years.
I wonder if where they took the car to get serviced the place didn’t do it and just said they did.
@@dragonofkilln9663 I can confirm that this actually happens. How often, I do not know.
@@paulstandaert5709 I’m sure it does. Which is why I always check fluid levels before I leave the building
He's 10k+ past the recommended oil change, dealerships usually do 5k miles for a recommended oil change which means he's been driving 15k miles without an oil change, that will gunk up he oil on Hyundai's.
@@victorribak5963 It'll gunk up any engine out there. Just walk through the self-serve junkyards and glance at the engines that have valve covers removed. Sludged engines are everywhere. Work in the used car department at a dealer somewhere. Countless trade-ins come in with no oil showing on the stick.
I shouldn't complain. People like this make me a lot of money.
So sweet to have a good wife. Married for 47 years and my wife still loves me. We are lucky to have that ride or die best buddy. Good work wife unit. We see who is the rock the glue and the protector. Bravo. Nice work team Ray.
The rainmen keeps her laughing ...and that keeps them around longer ..it always helps to start your own business too ,instead of making your employer get that money...better off if your wife gets it all That rainmen he ain't no dummy
She is a sweetie 💕
The sticker shown at 0:12 says date: 2/4/21, which means the last oil change was 3 years ago. So that right there explains the sludge. Furthermore, if that sticker is actually a "due date" for the next oil change, that would mean this would be a 20K oil change and based on the date, indicates the last oil change was done 4 years ago!
Thank you! This makes sense. I was just going to say this doesn’t look like 10k mile oil. I mean 10k mile oil would be dirty for sure but not THIS sludgy.
@@hk5288most full synthetics are generally fine upto 10k no problem. Time is also an important factor which as you can see it’s been Atleast 3 years since the last oil change.
Agreed, that isn’t 10k oil. I’m running 10k intervals with my wife’s Nissan rogue using mobile 1 extended that they say is good for 20k. The oil is still a nice bronze color at 10k when I change it. Never black like that. That’s gotta be more like 20k, and years old, plus a life of very long drain intervals.
You will be hard pressed to find a shop who puts 10k miles on the next due date, they want you back there as often as possible. My dealership puts 3k on standard and 5k on full synthetic.
Would have been fun to see underneath the valve cover, before and after.
Hey Ray, I’m no auto mechanic, but when I get into something w snap/tabs like that door switch, I will release them and slide a playing card in once they are released. This keeps them released and lets you work on the other ones without them snapping back in. Not sure if this would have helped you in this case, but it’s an inexpensive way to buy a couple extra hands to hold the tabs. Love your stuff, be well young man!!
I use an old credit card as it's a lot stiffer, but same idea.
Or a saws-all on the back tabs, and replace with JB Weld epoxy....:)
@@Jay.Kellett expired gift cards are good too, a bit thinner than CC but stiffer than playing card.
I push a toothpick beside the tab to keep it from relaunching. I'll try the card trick next time
I've used small flat heads for that, but using some kind of card seems like a good idea, going to try that in the future!
I use pieces of metal band that came from a shipping crate ....that was painful to watch Ray struggling...lol
Made a believer out of my son about oil changes after he had to replace his motor in his pickup . Oil changes are the cheapest and easiest preventive maintenance you can do for your motor . As you were working to get that switch out I was wanting to give you a hand so badly . Stay safe , have fun . Oh Lauren was a big help on this one .
How long did he go with no oil change on his truck? Or did he not check it and it got low?
@ I have no idea . He could spend $$ on fun stuff , but oil changes were boring , till they cost a new motor .
That's fresh.
Was just told this week by a Gentleman that's been in the Automotive business for 50 years about a recent service at his shop.
This particular customer hadn't had their oil changed since 2020 .... & 16,000+ miles.
Hyundai recommended change interval is 7,500 miles, so at 10k past the sticker, this could be 17-18k oil.
Hi Ray, on those tabs holding that part in the door, I have always pushed a piece of thin cardboard (normally the box lid off the new part) into the the side that I unhooked so they do not re-engage. Then work the inside.
loose feeler gauges work for me .
I have a collection of old bank/credit/fuel cards at hand to use as a "spudger" or a shim or wedge... very handy.
Actually I use plastic from 2liter bottles to do the same trick with all the clips that hold gauge clusters together. I do back light repairs and mods on them.
I shim them with pieces of food cans (keep the rim on to leave a safe edge...)
I hope Ray reads these responses.
In the words of Bugs Bunny, “it’s da suspense that gets ya”. I sometimes shove flat pieces of plastic in once I get tabs popped out so they don’t lock again while trying to get the other tabs.
I really appreciate that you don’t just ignore stuff you see (like the sludge) and actually do something instead of just doing the minimum. Sign of a great mechanic.
He loves to upsell his engine cleaning stuff....and does it on engines that arent sludged up.He likes it when engines are like this cuz he makes more money...sign of a great mechanic.
I seriously don't understand how come ANYONE would treat their vehicle this way, and not care about important maintenance like an oil change. What's cheaper, a MOTOR or an OIL CHANGE?😮
Lazy àrses
Some people truly don't understand anything about cars. Or have 1,000 other things going on in their life so it's not a priority. It's an expensive lesson to learn...
Yeah, but with a new motor you have a new motor. Who doesn't want a new motor?
Right! Bcos it's not on fricken tik tok,and it's not a trend,,new age idiots😂🎉
@@stefanpufferLOL 😂
For years I worked for a company that changed the oil in their Dodge Vans at 20,000 miles with a filter change at 10,000 miles, we NEVER had an oil related problem and ran most of those vans 300,00 to 400,000 miles before trading them off.
Now the difference was that almost all of these miles were highway miles and we ran full synthetic oil, most vans got between 80,000 to 100,000 miles every year.
When we switched to Dodge Trucks with the 5.9 Cummins Diesel we used Mobil Delvac 1 Synthetic Oil specifically made for diesel engines and used the oil drain interval to 25,000 miles, again no issues putting 300,000 to 400,000 miles on each truck.
My company truck had a close call with the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin) where the pin fell between the timing gears and the aluminum timing cover cracking the cover and causing a major oil leak, this was around 220,000 miles and the mechanic was amazed at how clean the engine was on the inside.
Would I run extended oil drain intervals on a modern engine? Absolutely not because of the increased amount of exhaust gas recirculation used for emissions and the increased use of plastic/nylon parts inside engines today and that is even more important on modern Diesel Engines which will “Soot Up” if allowed to idle excessively or just driven around town and never driven long enough to heat up and burn off the soot.
I change my oil every 3-4 thousand miles. 2004 expedition, has 220,000 miles on it and it runs smooth, quiet, and still strong.
Use zip ties on the outer side, so it won't tab in again, and then work the other side. Don't remove the zip ties until the new part is in and correctly placed. After making sure everything is done correctly, remove the zip ties. You could use something like an expired credit card as well, but since it's a moving piece of tool it is difficult to keep it in place. Have yourself a great day Ray, Lauren and Dave.
just get trim remooval tools, basic shit
I'd simply destroy the existing part. Just be careful not to damage any of the tabs that keeps the replacement firmly affixed.
@@leecowell8165 Lord almighty. THERE IS A TOOL FOR THIS.
I wish all mechanics were honest like you. Have watched you and south main auto for a while and you guys do right by your customers.
you gotta be joking he upsold a bs cleaner that is gonna harm the engine more. that person could barely afford gas and instead of him explaining to the customer the severity of the issue he sold them snake oil so they come back again when it totally breaks.
@@dejan4666What you're on about...Ray's as honest a mechanic as they come and that cleaner is designed specifically for that. So what's better then...no flush and leave all that gunk in? You're the one who isn't serious...
One of my dad’s pieces of life advice to me was to always keep up with the oil changes in the vehicles. Apparently folks don’t tell their kids that any more.
I always remind my wife and Daughter I'll say how many miles on the oil change we do 5,000 mile synthetic they go you are obsessed but we all have are issues
You can tell the kids & they go yeah ...5 minutes later what did dad say?
I feel like its more on the cheap bastards who go, “Oh the oil and filter are rated to 10k so im going to ignore the 3k or 5k service interval.” All to save what 40-50 bucks if even that
@@djasseater2262 i'm 1 of those cheap bastards u r talking about... i went 3 yrs, 2 mos & 2 days going 23,671 miles & hav no issues wut so ever w/my '16 lexus now @ 77K... so u do NOT believe any1 can develop a nu product that can DO MORE than older or just plain real oil ? ? ? AMSOIL started in 1972 as the 1st synthetic APPROVED by the API... if it were so bad they wood b out of business by now, don't u think ? ? ? by the way, GOOD products cost $$$ my boss, a livery driver, also, has a '10 prius w/over 375K & has NO / ZERO sludge in his engine... only runs AMSOIL since he got it w/just under 90K... yes, i use & sell AMSOIL... 🤑
My favorite oil is Redline. It has an excellent ZDDP package and the only oil you can hear how much better the engine runs. if you put some between your fingers it feels like liquid plastic. Been using it for around 40 years and many many cars they all ran better. Its the oil engine oil that will fix a Hemi tick. Its not cheap.
Your patience with that window switch is astounding...! Thanks for sharing... Keep up your awesomeness...
Last time I saw oil that looked like black gold or Texas tea, Uncle Jed missed the rabbit.
Dave has been doing a good job keeping Ray from working 10-14-hour days, and often with just a quiet look.
Dave needs a nickname Troy you helped Ray a lot.
In situations like that with spring fittings I use to free up one side, insert a thin piece of plastic ( credit card) on the released clips to stop them re-engaging, then flip out the other side as I pulled on it, worked a treat everytime @Rainmen Ray's Repairs
I do exactly the same...I was literally shouting at my monitor at Ray, saying put a card in between on one side!
Tip: get tabs released, slide dollar bill in place to prevent tabs from locking again. Repeat on other side
Or use a couple of bank cards?
That 2019 DASH IS ALREADY RAVISHED FROM THE SUN.....My 20+ old G cherokee and Explorer's dashes are still MINT....
I have this same Hyundai Sonata, the engine seized at 89K miles. Turns out that specific engine is under a lifetime warranty from Hyundai/Kia due to a $3Billion class action lawsuit stemming from a manufacturing defect where the engine was not deburred correctly and metal bits were getting into the bearings. The lifetime warranty also applies to the NEW engine too! (as long as it is properly maintained) Nice video - good to see Lauren and Dave more!!!
So basically if you own that car you can just redline it at stoplights whenever you want and then when it eventually blows up you can just get a new engine?
Need to get this oil change behind them, put a few thousand miles on clean oil. Assuming that they have no access to old stuff, like this.
If it failed right now, the warranty would almost certainly not be honored.
@@mashedpotatoes5323 I do that normally because my 4L60E won't move unless i'm at redline!
@@linuxguy1199 to avoid transmission wear I was thinking more like put it in neutral and just rev the crap out of it like a ricer civic.
I'm a Hyundai advisor and former tech. This engine would be denied.
Good call to have the customer come back in 3k for another oil change. Surprised that engine isn’t obviously damaged. I like that you’re slowly incorporating Dave into your videos. He seems like a great guy. Let us know how the little Chinese car is doing 😁👍
Rainman isn’t a babysitter, if this person wants to blow their car up….then let them. Then they can pay Rainman to put another engine in.
@@deplorablelibertarian That engine is probably only on the first couple of oil changes since the recall happened.
@@deplorablelibertarian you need to learn a thing or two about customer service.
i too had noticed that Dave was getting more air time. any day now he might get a speaking part.
Don't do it that sludge is the only thing holding the engine together
Ray & the wife make @ great team best wishes to you both in business & family life
I like this format of Lauren being behind the camera and assisting. More like this pls
I sure learned what's all involved and you don't get paid for that extra time What a blessing your wife is! Lets everyone buy his products!!
Ray. I am Old School being as I am 80 years old. When I had a car that needed an engine flush, after completion, I always added 1 quart of ATF in place of 1 quart regular oil to help clean the engine. You and the wife unit are priceless.
Mineral oil works fine as well. That's always been a good remover as far as sludge. Even some diesel fuel, but you don't run it more than maybe twenty minutes at low rom
If it clogs up the oil pickup due to massive sludge beeing freed up, you are going to have a bad time :D Better dissolve it slowly over a few thousand miles.
@@tschuuuls486Just bought a GMC w/ 5.1L where ‘dynamic’ lifters are prone to clogging and failure. What do you suggest as a longer clean to avoid clogging the lifters? thnx
@@bhagmeister probably just full synthetic with good cleaning properties (has something to with the ester content of the base oil) and a decent additive package. And just change the oil every 6k miles. But I'm not familiar what exactly goes wrong with that exact engine. I just hopped in a oil forum and read up on my engine and looked at the suggestions vs price per liter :D
@@bhagmeister A zinc additive or a good oil that contains a lot of zinc is what you need for lifters. This kind of oil is actually the best you can use for breaking in a cam as well.
You are the best automobile service provider I have ever seen. I truly believe the way you work should be studied by EVERYONE who wants to be a professional mechanic. It should be mandatory! I sincerely hope I can find a mechanic half as thorough as you to bring my Monte Carlo back to life. Continue to be great. You have a subscriber for as long as you have this channel.
And he’s showing his greatness by reusing old drain plug with old crush gasket and not torquing it to spec. How many times that door trim touched the ground? Only thing he needed was to disconnect those cables…
Whenever the customer says they don't remember when the last oil change was, you can expect the worst. That must be some good stuff you use for the flush. Only problem is, that person will neglect the oil changes again. You can bring a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. You would have had less trouble with the switch if you would have taken a thin tool and pushed through the outside (top of switch), you would have popped it right out. Good video, thanks for sharing.
But there was a dead giveaway of when the last oil change was done. Have a look at the start and the 'next service due' sticker and under the distance due (87,000), there is a date of when due of 2/4/21, so allowing for that being February (in most of the world, that would mean April - but I digress), that means it's 35 months overdue, which explains the sludge and why customer can't remember.
Dear Ray i know the problem with them damn tabs. My solution was to grind the edge on my screwdriver so it was very sharp. Made it much more easy to get it behind the tabs.
I got a 2002 Silverado from the stepson. He said his dad changed the oil regularly. I thought I had better do an oil change on it since it was having a little lifter noise. It finally took a 24 inch pipe wrench to get the filter off. The filter was the worst I'd ever seen. Completely full of grease consistency sludge. Wow. It was amazing that something didn't seize up. It's still running great now at 230000 miles.
Man... You are keeping a blistering video upload schedule... Dont forget the "me"/ family time. There's a reason so many TH-camrs burn out after while. Love your channel, and Ive been watching every day for the last couple years! KTF!
GOOD day to you, Ray. Tip on the door switch release tabs. Cut a business card into strips. Then, slide a strip under each tab as they are released so that they do not relock. Love your videos, thank you.
For those type of clips. I have found that cutting a soda can in strips helps remove them.
Use pritool to move the clip back, insert can strip, do same for the others. Pops right out.
How about a beer can.
Hey Ray, I'm a technician for electronics and I know your pain with them clips.
If you use flat metal spacers and shove one in each tab area, you can pull whatever you want out without the other clips going back.
Back in 1985 , I once met an guy who was selling a 1976 Chevy Pickup .
He was so proud of the fact that Everything on it was ORIGINAL !
He even said that the Oil was the " Original Factory Oil " although when it got a little low , he would add some.. 🤪
Can you imagine what the intake valves look like
Yep. Lots of TH-cams showing how much gunk some Hyundai engines (2011-16?) collected. The engines naturally gunked up then owners liked to skip oil changes, a deadly combo. Some were due to shavings left in the engine during assembly, others were due to excess blow-by, per the class-actions suits. The "fix" is sometimes to pull/clean the pan and valve cover, flush/change a second time. The vids say the customer is due back in 500 miles for another flush/change but you can guess how many owners follow up.
I dont want to. Its scary in there i bet.
GDI only engine. I won't buy GDI without port injection vehicles. Or turbo engines. Or mechanical CVT transmissions.
I like the Toyota 2.5 liter hybrid system. Port and GDI injection. No turbos. No sleazy mechanical CVT. Great fuel economy.
@mikep490 agreed, Hyundai engines don't need help with building up sludge, but I have worked one a number of Hyundai engines, and yeah they have issues for sure.
@danny Mazda sky active use direct injection only but it's reliable. You Just have to clean the intake valve and injectors with a kit I believe.
The sludge is real with this one!
Very good, Ray, Dave and Lauren! It's a pleasure to see a shop run smoothly with everybody working well together. Thank you all for taking us along on your workday.
I could NEVER flat rate at my age. I can only work by hour, and on classics. I've got a Theta II engine in my car too. 3500 miles is my oil change interval. I like your process to bring this one back.
Not that you necessarily care, I have the same engine and do 7500 mile oci. All the oil analysis have been good and Blackstone says do 10k. I drive almost all highway though. It does burn about 1qt over that time. Always has since I bought it with 22k on it. Cheers.
@@martyhall9904You'd probably burn less oil if your oci were done more frequently. Also, adding an additive like Lucas or Redline would also help slow that consumption. Good luck.
On non computer type engines we fill the crank case with diesel and let it sit overnight. Drain amd add new oil, pull plugs and turn over to ensure no hydrolock. Run it up and down the street a few times then fresh oil change again. Works great on stuff that has been sitting with nasty oil for 40 years.
Personal satisfaction with this one - watching Ray struggle and thinking: 'he's going to bend that driver for leverage.' Sure enough, driver bent! The number of 'specially engineered' tools that exist for 'that one job' would be incredible.
Also love that Dave is designated timekeeper so that you all go home and have proper down time. Great team, great atmosphere, wonderful content on many levels. Cheers for that. ❤
guitar picks (or any thin shim) are good for inserting into the tabs to keep from recapturing
For the oil plug, use a socket and extension to back it out those last few turns. Lot easier to wipe oil off metal.
I just use a telescopic magnet.
I like to put a magnet inside the socket on the extension.
I have a Hyundai with a 2.0 turbo GDI engine. I change it every 3,000 miles because those GDI engines are notorious for sludging up (that’s what my dealership says and I’ve read a lot on those things) and it’s a Hyundai so you play it safe.
First thing I do when I remove the caliper is with my smooth edge needle nose is lift the piston boot up and have look at the condition of piston, looking for any rust. Your thoughts Eric. 50 years working on vehicles, red seal in 1980, kept up with as much training I could. Also owned my own shop in small town in Saskatcewan for 12 years. I am still working 4 days a week and turning 69 in 2 months. I struggle with my hands but still get it done. What I want you to know coming from this old guy is that I am still learning everytime I watch your vidios, thank you for what you do.
Don’t feel too bad, Ray. I, too, a rank amateur driveway mechanic, oiled myself just as you did. But, with much fresher oil!! Glad to see things going well for y’all!! Keep up the good work!!
The shop is looking good. I love the signage and the lights. Great job Ray. You pay attention to that kind of thing. Alot of people don't.
Happy to see you always take excellent care of your customers and to see Lauren join in. If I lived close enough, you would definitely be my go to place for automotive service.
I have a 1957 Chev. Bel Air convertible I bought new for $2795. CAD with a 283 , with a manual transmission in 1958, ( I didn't like the look of the 58!) In 1972 I replaced that engine with a 350 small block, new from GM, and a M22 Transmission I'm a former, retired Journeyman GM Partsman with 40 years experience. I still drive it all summer and store it inside in winter,( I live in Canada).
I use and still use Quaker State oil and religiously change oil every 5000 miles. On every 7th oil change I replace one quart of oil with one quart of automatic transmission fluid. I keep track of every oil change in my cars journal and repair history. And NO, before you ask, the car is NOT for sale. I'm 82 now and still drive it.
What happens to it after I'm gone? I don't care, but I would be funny to be around to see the kids, grand kids and great grand kids fight over it. LOL
I have a Hyundai Sonata hybrid that has about 110,000 miles on it. It looks and runs like new. I change the oil every 4k and the engine still runs fine. Very quiet and smooth. My only concern is that the hybrid battery is probably near the end of its life because my mileage has dropped significantly from about 47 mpg to about 37 mpg. Fortunately for me, I have a lifetime warranty on the hybrid battery as the original owner of the vehicle. I have yet to replace the brakes or exhaust system. This has been one of the best vehicles I’ve ever owned and I’m almost 80 years old and have owned over 20 vehicles.
Unreal! Ray cares more about vehicles than the owner! Thanks for keeping an eye out for us ray! Dont let them get away with 10k more mile oil change! Shame on them!
Great video as usual. Yes, Amsoil is a far better oil than M1. Can you video this car again next oil change? Thanks.
I think it’s great to have a wife that performs duty as a quality control officer. Good on her.
Have used Amsoil since 1996 , and that put an end to rebuilding the engine after 100000 miles , before I used penzoil , usually kept the cars for 5 years and put about 500000 miles on each . amsoil saved me a ton of money.
Heres a tip for doing that switch the quick way....Two 2" wide putty knives one on each side to do the front 4 pins and two small screwdrivers for the last 2 and also you push on the whole switch from the other side.................
Ray just makes a new tool to do the job. Another entertaining video, thanks Ray and The Wife Unit.
Reading the below replies regarding how to help remove that electric window switch, all great suggestions on how to get past the clips. Love the advice from some of your readers. Was a shame to see the condition of that engine/oil. Hope the cleaning efforts work. Love watching Lauren assist, she's good at it...a pleasure seeing you two work together.
with those clips that go back and forth- one locks back up if going to the other side - I like to stick a nonuseable credit card in the harder to access clip. It prevents the lock up, and is flexible. it also tends to break before you would break something sensitive if you mess up.
Thank you for the videos. I am a retired master mechanic. You do top-notch work.
I'll bet you would replace the old drain plug gasket though! And hopefully, cover your open containers.
One tip I've heard about plastic connectors is to push together before trying to unfasten the retaining clips. (Pushing together removes some, if not all of the pressure against them.) Then while keeping the fastening clips undone, pull the plug apart. In this case the "plug" was the driver door switches.
Lastly, a long piece of thin metal, like a drywall putty knife would pry multiple fastening clips away at the same time. Undoing one at a time can be very frustrating.
another idea for you (I'm a retired electronics engineer and came up against similar frustrations. I finally "modified" a putty knife to get to dumb weird angles behind other parts! Saved my sanity a bunch of times!!
GDI (Gas Direct Inject) engines need their oil changed actually more often. As you've seen the Equinox on this channel many times I followed the oil life monitor. So the first few years of my car I went 6-7K miles but I used Mobil 1 every time. I also used Mobil 1 or K&N filters with a filter magnet since new. I've since changed to Amsoil/Pennzoil Platinum, and now at 174K miles I'm using SuperTech (it did ok on another channel's oil testing). During the summer I'll go back to Pennzoil due to the heat. Also changing the trans fluid every 20K miles. Yes, might seem like a waste but compared to the cost of a rebuilt transmission it's a small fee to pay.
On the trans flush, you’re wasting money. You minds well change oil every 1k mi as well since you just have disposable income like that 😎
@@CollinMac96 explain how its a waste of money. I'll wait.
@@ChrisLincolnHomes read your owners manual. I’ll wait.
@@CollinMac96 I have read it. The trans failed at 149k miles. Rebuilt, used gm fluid, started to slip again at 170k miles. Exchanged the fluid, like new again. Florida heat isn't great for ATF.
@@ChrisLincolnHomes read it again. Go to page 37, I’ll wait.
These engines are junky not denying that, but I still think this is half the issue with the hyundai/kia engines blowing up. I've got 100k on my 17 Sonata and it's had 3k mile oil changes since new. It doesn't burn oil at all. Might blow up tomorrow lol. Who knows. But I think proper maintenance helps at least.
what was your process for getting a new engine from Hyundai? thanks
@@asianstud7 never needed one sorry. Still have the original at 115k now. If it's failed due to the rod bearing failure, you should be able to take it to the dealer and have it covered. As long as the knock sensor update was done, and it hasn't been neglected. If it's not rod bearing failure though, they aren't going to cover it unless you're still under the 10yr/100k powertrain warranty.
@@cincy9381 oh I see. Yeah I got the update. Thanks for your reply
This is the most uncomfortable uncoordinated video you have done so far, fair play for sharing
for the door switch...feeler gages. pry open the tabs, stick in a thick enough feeler gages and work your way around the unit. by the time you pop the last tab, the unit pulls out. been using this trick for about a decade after a similar situation on my own vehicle. i had the luxury of stopping, having a lung dart and think of a solution and feeler gages is what i came up with.
now when i hit my local pawn shops i always grab feeler gages rusty or not.
hope this helps someone.
thanks ray.
Ray as a ex Mechanic ive been there were door switches when worked for Renault UK in Liverpool were i still live.Never give up trying no matter how long it gets.Paul...
Happy Saturday Ray. The Sludge is strong in this one indeed.
Fantastic video Ray... Would love to see episode 3 on that 3K mile oil change.
“If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always got.”- Henry Ford...... Would've been interesting to see an oil analysis on this one. Was there anything left at all of the additive package? 😗
I bought my used tahoe and changed its oil immediately. Very easy and saves time. People don’t know how to take care of cars
That's a pretty broad statement! What's your evidence?
@lightningstrikestwice6302 reality, many of us old guys look out for every young person in the family. I pay to change oil in grand children cars when they argue its a waste.
It is also that they don't want to know car care, they're treating cars as disposable. Fine if you are wealthy, if not, we'll your
future financial and retirement
picture may be ugly.
well,
Really glad to see your business thriving and doing well!
I was cheering you on with the switch module! Glad to see it successfully pulled and replaced! Thanks to Lauren too! Great work! I'll look forward to an update on the sludge situation. New subscriber!
I have a Hyundai Elantra. Been there, done that, same challenges!
If I remember correctly, two screw drivers wedged and left in place on back side, then pop front loose😊
Pro Tip on that kind of thing. When you pry it open to keep it from closing, slide a playing card down in it when payed open. It will keep it from relatching
1.) Nice having a camera person/mirror positioning tech handy. Makes for nice video and saves you time setting up the camera 4 times to get angles.
2.) If this oil change is 10k late, how late were the prior ones? Could only be the 4th or 5th change on a 100k car. Lot of sludge there.
3.) My (unofficial) thinking is that if you change oil at regular intervals with the right grade, and change the filter, it shouldn’t matter what brand of oil you use, if it is a quality brand. Especially if you clock the oil cap correctly so the writing is aligned 😊
4.) Did I really just number/bullet point my comments?
Ray as bad as that sludge oil was I m surprise that you didn’t drop the oil pan(because there isn’t anything blocking it from coming off).The oil filter was probably on bypass. Have a good day Ray
He did in another video, cleaned it all out.
@@mitchhedberg4415 but he said customer would come back in 5000 miles which scared me.
Little tip here. We used to use two different transmission funnels for transmission and engine oil fills. We'd use one transmission funnel like it is for adding transmission fluid and for the other transmission funnel we'd a few inches off the small end, opening up the hole some to allow for faster engine oil fills. Try it you'll like it.
@LilYeshua :
"So I tried it . . . . Thought I was gonna DIE!!!!"
😁🤣😅😂
@@daleallen7634 har har
Next time, squeeze and unhook the door release cable so you aren't juggling the door panel tethered to the cable, Grab a couple of business cards to shove into the clips as you release them. The bent screwdriver was spot on. A must for this fix.
We watched the whole thing, and it was well worthwhile. Especially your struggle with the door switch-- proof that simple success is not always simple.
Not only was it 13k over in mileage - it was also over 2 years, by the date on the sticker
2021 yes I saw that so I’m thinking the car barley gets driven
So, 23.000 miles on the same oil? That's bad
& nobody knows how many of those miles were town /highway.
@@wirdy1 seeing how bad the oil looked I’m going to say city driving.
That sludge looks like way more than 10k overdue. I only saw something similar in a VW driven 4mi only daily in northern climate.
agree, the owner put a fake sticker or drove under severe condition-food deliveries?
@@forgetfulme1719 or whoever was changing it before didn't change it and instead they just put a new sticker on and charged money for the oil
happens in cheap prices shop.
Looks like the oil got baked on the dipstick
I would have drained the old crap oil out, replaced the filter and refilled it with any cheap oil before using the BG EPR. The additive would have had a better chance dealing with the remaining sludge before replacing the filter and oil again. Also, you missed the opportunity to mention that AMS oil is 100% synthetic oil and that "full synthetic" oil is not synthetic oil at all but highly refined dino juice.
At a minimum replace the old oil filter; it's very likely bypassing EVERYTHING at this stage.
Umm yea, it all comes from the ground.
Only Asmoil’s signature series is 100% full synthetic their OE still uses petroleum base stocks but it’s still a much better blend then Mobil 1
I hear everyone knocking 10k oil changes but ive been doing them for about 6 years, all my cars have done 100k to 150k miles, I also send the oil on the off to be tested every 40k all the test comeback that its fine and it's still had more mileage i could have gone. I do use Mobile 1 25k full synthetic and use their 25k filters, and do 10k oil changes. City and Hwy useage on the Cars.
Ray, next time you run into a door switch like that, a thin piece of aluminium can be cut to fit the entire hidden side (bent as necessary to fit behind the tab holder).
Lever the entire holder off the tabs then slide the aluminum down in front of the tabs to prevent re-engagement.
Unclip the front tabs & Bob's yer uncle.
Recently changed a pwr window switch on an Altima. Took longer to get the panel off the door than to get the switch out.
FIL been driving around for 2 yrs unable to lower the driver window. New switch was under $40.
He's an A&P (airplane mech). Gave him a hard time about it..... 😅
Now that cleanup is not snake oil, but I still feel a lot of the BG stuff has the potential of being snake oil.
'I believe' it is, he should do 2x with BG for this one.
I think Ray calls it lizard juice
BG products work, they're sold in shops and don't make false promises like the stuff you see at Walmart or on TV
Yes it's so snake oil,,that's why it's recommended to and for Ferrari owners and service techs🎉😂
the motive always $, helps to boost the shop's profit. Better, oil change 2nd time after 50 miles.@@joedavidzuniga1993
That window control is a nightmare to change out
Well actually no they aren't. All you do is slide a thin piece of plastic or indeed metall inside each if the catches and it virtually drops out. I cannot believe I watched an experienced mechanic do that.
Oil is cheap compared to a new engine. I change mine with full synthetic every 5k miles. Cheap insurance
I know a guy who did the automotive service treadmill until journeyman. Then, switched immediately to heavy equipment. Once journeyman on HE, he made very, very good money.
I admire you for the patience you displayed. I would have bellowed a thousand cuss words when dealing with that door switch assembly.
The GDi on the engine stands for Gonna Destroy Itself, lol
Yea, you're right if you don't keep up religiously with maintenance! And probably 90% of Hyundai owners don't keep up with the maintenance!
Agreed. My wife's grenaded (Hyundai) at 100,040 Kms)...40 Kms over warranty. NO NEW ENGINE.
It was not oil in that engine, it was Tar. 😂😂
Rainman employed the wife unit as cameraman, hope she gets a nice bonus at the end of the month. 😀
Tech pumped from recycle oil drum by mistake.
@@forgetfulme1719 😏🤷🏽♂️
She’s part owner lol
@@ryans413Really! 🤔
I guess she will be applying the bonus herself. 😏
Bad news guys, Florida is NOT a "community property" State, but follows "equitable distribution rules" instead!
😁
That sludge is more like 20-30k mile oil change, no way its only 10k, unless the person doesn't drive much, and its 3+ year oil
Anytime I have tabs like that that lock back in. Take a strip of cardboard the thickness like you would find on a box of latex gloves. Slip that into the side you have already pry'd to keep it open. Then work on the opposing side. Good to go. Love your channel! BTW your curse control is exemplary!!!
You get new engine under warranty and you still don’t bother changing the oil!
Wooow, the Florida sun has destroyed that dash!
They should have got a dash mat and a window screen. Dash mats help they absorb the heat and keep the suns rays off the dash.
@@ryans413 right? I have used those in every vehicle I’ve owned for 30 years, they definitely save your dash.
@ryans413 I use one. My problem is that it gets dirty and transfers the dirt to the interior side of my windshield. I just fling it around my car which is on me. Do you fold it up everytime or have other care tips?
@@stevenkerwin4041 mine just held on by Velcro so when I need to clean it I just pull it off wash it with a hose and some soap and a brush. Mine is just carpet it’s not any fancy material. But it really has been useful for keeping my dash pristine from the sun. My older car the plastic started melting and it became all sticky it was a mess.
@@ryans413 I looked up dash mat. It is a different product than my sun shade. I will consider one of those for sure.
So 13-15 k from the last oil change
Wow 😳
theyre gonna blame hyundai for making a bad engine.
@@DigitalYojimboI’ve gone 16k on our 1998 Honda accord and it didn’t look close to that bad. Hyundais GDI problems are bad.