Ender 3 - Fix Warped Bed, Bed Leveling, and the Best Print Surface
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ค. 2024
- This is how I fixed the warped bed on my Ender 3, but this method could work for basically any 3D printer. I also show my process for tramming (leveling) the bed. I am currently using a G10/FR4/Goralite print surface and I don’t plan to change that any time soon, it has been fantastic!
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0:00 - The Intreoductory Intro
1:04 - G10 Print Surface
5:20 - Fixing Bed Warp
8:22 - Tramming the Bed - บันเทิง
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Installed the G10 sheets on all my printers, and the comments made above regarding the advantages are SPOT ON. These build surfaces, are the best thing since sliced bread. BTW fantastic is an understatement.
Don't know if you still replying to comments but, i have been using the Ender 3 magnetic bed 2 of them and there warped is that common and evertime i do a 1st layer a part of that layer doesn't stick and i see big gaps
I just found one of my E3's bed has a real nasty crown front to back, but even all the way across.
I think I'm gonna try this!!! Thank you!!!
FYI:
That stock Ender build plate is also G10. I peeled that black layer off both of my E3's platforms. Heat the bed to 60C with the plate on it. Once it hits 60, pull the plate off and start peeling. It's on there real good, but that G10 can take a beating. If it gets too hard to peel, put it back on the bed for a few minutes, and pull some more. Clean the residue off with some Goo-Gone (look it up). Final clean with some DNA. Elmer's and H2O from then on.
I like the idea of the aluminum tape. It's a solid spacer that will also allow heat to move.
That video helped me with fixing my Vyper bed. Thanks.
instead of using the paper you can use the feeler gauge to set the tip at a more exact height.
Very true. I have tried a feeler gauge but I found, at least for the printing I do, it to be more difficult to use and any additional accuracy to be unnecessary. I will concede that it is a technically better way to tram the bed.
@@Casey_Schmidt I was gonna say, this dude knows that tram is actually the proper name, has feeler gauges, and then went and used paper anyway?!?
I would suggest to do the adjustments diagonally for the sheet of paper. Like top left, bottom right, top right bottom left.
The best investment I made for my Ender 3 was to add a BL touch, upgraded to Jyers firmware (free), and add a auto bed level G29 G code to the starting G-code in the slicer. This does the bed level at printing temp before every print. I selected the 5x5 probe point version and it takes about 5 min before each print. The advantage is that you can change bed material and it will level regardless of imperfections of the different materials you use
This sounds awesome, is there a video that outlines how to install and configure?
@@mikeendsley8453 BV3D: Bryan Vines th-cam.com/video/NDe6QXreBNs/w-d-xo.html adding a BLTouch to an ender 3 v2
th-cam.com/video/o1zXYwgIPLY/w-d-xo.html Jyers firmware download install and set up
I used the EV3V2-BLTouch-5x5-v4.2.7.bin (v4.2.7 is the board version)
Where you add the G29 auto bed level G code is in Start G Code in the slicer.
For Cura th-cam.com/video/9EYoQGV7wl4/w-d-xo.html
I added the G29 on the line after the G28 ; Home all axes
so it looks like
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto bed level
The other advantage with Jyers firmware is that allows you the save your printer setting to the Eprom on the controller board, so that if you upgrade Cura or Octoprint you don't have to worry about your printer settings.
Good luck
its just a shit design, you shouldn't have to do any of this. Both plates should be thicker.
Bullshit. I got a CR touch and it doesn't do jack. If you have uneven surfaces, even after adjusting the Z layer, it's still not going to work. Fixing bed warps is mandatory.
@@HamzanMartinez agree with this. My BLtouch is properly configured, the level mesh is properly taken, and yet the print is a bit uneven (even with ~0.15mm level variance). It doesn't do anything save show you the state of the bed. It does not auto-adjust while printing.
I have the 3 Pro. It has a magnetic adhesive layer on the build plate. So I peel the magnetic sheet off the aluminum bed first, clean off any residue and then clip on the G10 build surface?
What thickness did you go with 3/32" or 1/8". What filaments do you use? It appears these phenolic plates only are tested to 280 degrees F. How long and how hot have you ever done a single print?
Great tips. Have you tried different filament, ABS vs PLA, with the G10 bed? ABS being a pain.
I’ve only used PLA up to this point but I’d like to try PETG sometime soon.
I'm actually having a hard time getting a proper bind. Do you guys clean it with anything special?
It's as had taken a while to think of this but for one thing; the beds on these should be never anything but a cube if need be; I mean that it should be thick enough that it cannot be anything but straight; and then if there would be such issues as then the travelling of the head of not being perfectly running squarely; then there would need to have a runner that dictates how high the tip is and this runner can only be under the bed; where if spring loaded upwards as if to keep away the furthest from the bed and the runner having it always kept down and as the runner always is exactly at the same spot as the tip and if the bed is exactly always the same thickness; then if it is setup well; it should work. Or why would it not be that there are four corners that determine the height by the use of each a screw that is mounted on a solid flat bed( like any other tool out there). Like a planer has; way too much maintenance is needed to work with these. Why ever would it be logic to have two separate strait edge parts for the keeping of a precision tool tip aligned? This all because of materials costs and weight of shipping I suppose. Ideally; it should be built within an iron bed such as similar to a table saw table grade of solid and oversized with two racks running two pignons each that hold two other racks that are mounted to a solid plate where the nozzle does not move and the is the one that starts up high at the nozzle and has a screw at each corner that moves it down with exact precision. And eventually; with this method; they can have a plate with extrusion pores that cover the whole plate and nothing would need to move other then vertical as a constant instead of steps(maybe); where a constant flow of complete printing where the whole object will seem to be coming out of the extruder surface. Cheers. I've predicted many of things and can't remember of any that haven't happened. I might just not remember of some but I doubt it though. Ah ya ok here it is; water cooling as it goes downwards withing the water cooling bath where the extruding goes on at a controlled distance above the water level. LOLOL I bet you it will take until year 2026 for them to get that. Watch and I'm sick of writing on hear and so I'm outta here man.
Great video! Do you have a recommendation on how thin the aluminum tape should be? I found some at home depot that says its .003 mm thick and my instant reaction was it might be too thin and require a lot of layers. There are some others that are around .1 mm thick as well
Thicker tape is better thermally. The glue layer acts as a little bit of an insulator so fewer layers is best. However, thicker tape is harder to work with and may result in more creases and bubbles so take that into consideration too.
Well, I got impatient. I got my G10 at 12x12. I could not get it snap after scoring the lines so I took my Dremel to it. What a mess, lol. Unfortunately, my final cut is exactly the same as the heat plate as I forgot to add 2mm all around. Plenty of room to do so but I screwed the pooch this time. So, no overhang on the print bed! The bigger challenge was removing the magnetic adhesive on the hot plate. I finally managed to peel it all off and then spend 1/2 hr. removing the sticky residue. All done. Pray this works out for my printer. Thanks!
Patience usually prevails. You can always retry cutting another piece in the future too. Good luck!
Can you link that platform you have the ender on, thank you for this video i took my time with this to get an even level.
It is a 12x18x3 grade A granite surface plate that I got from Shars Tool Company. They are pretty affordable all things considered.
I'm getting frustrated with my Bed level in The 4 corners seem like they are barely touching the paper. When I level them enough to grip it slightly. Every corner is exact near enough but the middle just isn't. I brought a new bed and it's still the same
Is there anything else you can do besides the tape I wore that it may catch fire what else do you recommend I have a ender 3v2 and changed the stock glass bed to the flexible magnetic bed and the adhesion problem was fixed but I had the same problem where the nozzle didn't want to touch the build plate even when the job was turned all the way
I guess it might be possible that the tape could catch fire but this tape is meant for HVAC ducting and exhaust so it’s can handle very high temperatures. I’m not sure of any practical alternatives.
What thickness did you get
What is the thickness of the Garolite you have? Looking to buy but they have different thicknesses on the site.
1/32"
1/16"
3/32"
1/8"
etc.
I think it’s 3/32
I've never gotten good with paper.. I use a clip on dial gauge. $14 from harbor freight. = dead accurate level. There is 0 guess work.
Great video. What thickness is the g10 sheet . Thanks
I actually don't recall. I think it's just under an 1/8 inch. 3/32?
Been using a creality PEI sheet, and the center will often be lower than the corners, but it seems like it's the corners lifting over time on the sheet, and bed being of no issue.. which is extremely annoying, because traming it doesn't really help then 😅😅 pondering a G10 sheet, but not sure what they are like for warp over time
I’ve used that same blue sheet for about a year and a half now and it’s still in nearly perfect condition. For how cheap they are, I think it’s worth trying.
I have the same problem!!! - I have the Ender3 S2 Pro & have modified my gcode to bed level before printing to eliminate the problem, but the problem still persists....
I think what's happening is as the layers are printed, the more the centre s sucked in & moulds into the bed, causing the corners to lift.
I have removed the magnetic plate that's stuck to the bed which came with my printer & the bed now seems to be level. Maybe its the glue?, as there seems to be more around the edges than in the centre, or there's some kind of expansion going on???. I'll order an aftermarket/thinner magnetic plate & hopefully resolve this problem...
How would I know if it's the glass or the metal bed that is warped? I want to get a g10 sheet and not have to manually plane the metal bed. Will just replacing the bed surface with a flat one help?
Glass will conform
Getting a new aluminum plate that is not warped would be the best solution.
Anything you put on top of a warped bed will just end up being warped like the bed; unless you used a very thick piece is glass. But that would end up being so heavy that you’d get into ringing issues.
So the only reasonable options to improve flatness are to either shim the existing bed like showed or to purchase a replacement flatter bed.
@@Casey_Schmidt But how in the world are you knowing your next bed would be really flat?
@@Michel777 there are precision ground plates but they’re quite expensive.
Can you still use a magnetic sticker sheet with your aluminium tape bed warp fix?
I don’t see why not. The bed is aluminum and therefore not magnetic, adding a few tenths of tape shouldn’t affect anything.
Yeah, I peeled mine off. Erred on the side of caution
I have a bl touch and use that for bed levelling and still have warping problems. Why wouldn’t you do the levelling warm if youre having warping problems?
Parts can/will still warp even on a very flat build surface. It’s simply due to the contraction of the plastic as it cools; larger/longer parts are more susceptible.
As far as level the bed warmed up, that would be a much better way to do it if you need the best accuracy. I have tried it both ways and it doesn’t make a whole lot of difference for the parts that I print only because I try to keep my parts small and use a thick first layer.
@@Casey_Schmidt awesome reply and explanation thank you so much i was ready to buy another hot plate and/or chuck the whole printer in the garbage if i didnt come across you
There are several gcodes that will move the head from screw point to screw point.
I could have done that, and probably should have. But it was easier to do it manually at that time.
What filament did you use
The stuff I’ve used so far is the cheapest junk I could find on eBay from a US seller. Like $15 per roll. It works surprisingly well to be completely honest. But I will be trying a spool from Atomic Filament next.
How thick is your G10?
It’s either 1/8 or 3/32, I don’t quite remember.
I have a machinist's granite surface plate and have thought about lapping my Bed
It might be worth it? But the plate will warp when the bed is heated anyway so I think the best way to go is a BL touch or similar system that will have the g-code modified to follow the contour of the bed.
@@Casey_Schmidt I have a CR touch and am still getting thin spots. Bed seems to be warping more by the day.
@@59KYHighlander you can buy aftermarket cast aluminum beds the are made to have minimal internal stresses then machined flat. That may be the best route if you don’t mind spending some money (probably more than the machine costs). Then again, these machines are more about the fun than them money. Another tip that I’ve heard to combat thin spots is to increase your first layer height and first layer extrusion multiplier.
@@59KYHighlander How warped is it now, is it taco shaped yet?
@@BurittoSandwich Not tried it yet.
I been trying to level my plate for 2 months now 😭
If your plate is that badly warped, it may be a good investment to buy a higher quality one.
@@Casey_Schmidt my aluminium bed is warped too, what is the cause of bed warping? too much pressure from YELLOW springs? or its just manufacturing flaw?
@@incelpolskatv3855 stresses in the material from manufacturing or from the rolling process.
My glass bed is slightly warped
This method likely will have no affect on a glass bed.
3 Machines none arrived with a flat bed. 3 manufacturers
That sounds about right.
just throw it out if the bed is warped that's bad quality control seeing as everybody with an ender has the same problem best suggestion don't buy one don't know about other machines if they have the same problems
Aftermarket beds are much better, yes.