I 100% forgot about the stop. Id been beatin my head against the wall trying to figure out how to get more adjustment out of the level knobs. Appreciate you taking the time to make the video brother.
For anyone wondering what to use to get the glue off of the print bed after removing the magnetic bit, I turned the bed OFF and used acetone and a scraper. Turns it to slime and you can clean it off with a paper towel.
Brilliant! I replaced my magnetic bed, and installed the Creality glass bed, but always had issues leveling it properly. I missed the "move the microswitch down" step. I just ordered a new glass bed, and will be sure and follow your instructions this time. Thank you! Really enjoyed your video.
Awesome video. I replaced my bed for the glass one and never could get anything to stick to the rigid side of the glass but once I flipped it over with the logo on the underside - no more issues! cant wait for the benchdog video keep up the great content! Tom
Great video Tomasz, informative. I have the Ender 3 v2, upgrades I've done- BLTouch, dual z Axis lead screws, Raspberry Pi with Octoprprint. These mods significantly improve workflow. The rough surface on the glass bed is carborundum. Tip, for prints that are reluctant to stick I use a glue stick, cleans off with a damp cloth and then isopropyl alcohol. Good luck.
I have en ender 3 not the pro one though but i am going to use your tutorial as i thought i could figure it out on my own. we'll see how it goes. edit: well this video helped me a lot. thank you! when i tired it myself with the glass bed nothing was sticking. now its sticking and the test print seems to be printing ok.
I followed your tutorial and I gotta say it has helped me out very much with the prints not wanting to stick, I'll be sticking with the glass bed. Also you have my subscribe and like button ❤️
You don't need a special glass build plate. Common window glass about 3/16" thick will work just fine. If the glass is clean and heated to about 60C, PLA will stick to it like crazy. ABS and PETG might need a bit of glue stick. As the bed heats slowly, even common window glass won't crack from the heat, just don't let any water fall on the heated glass or it WILL CRACK! Same with cool down, let it cool to room temp slowly before removing the glass plate from the bed. I've found that I can remove hard stuck prints from the glass by putting the plate in the freezer for about 10 minutes. It cools slowly enough that it won't crack.
Good info Tomasz, that magnetic base looked like it was a bit tough to remove, I’m glad my ender actually came with a glass plate. I’ve found that changing the bed springs to the stronger ones available maintains the levelling better 👍.
Would it not have been easier to leave the magnetic sheet in place and lightly spray it using silicone lubricant in an aerosol can to prevent the glass plate from sticking?
If you use an untextured glass bed don't have to remove the magnetic sheet at all because it's thicker then a normal bed meaning you can level it once and not have to worry about leveling it after like 3 months
I love the magnetic beds but I am so tired of punching holes in the because the offset changed slightly. Going to give glass a second try. Hey, I'm not sure how sensitive 3d printers are with milled surfaces since I mostly work with machine tools but you really should try using a plastic scrapper next time. That steel scrapper is leaving small gouges in the milled aluminum plate.
So I need to adjust the z stop. I got it to work first time on the stock springs but it only works with the stock springs in my case. I upgraded because I'm tired of leveling it all the hid damn time. I will have to do that this weekend once I'm missing the Allen wrench
What is the differences between ender original glass vs ordinary (window) glass?? Is it more scratch resistant? Or may be won't break when fall on to the floor??
i see when you printing those parts are not stringing. do you mind to share the absolute settings to get rid of messy stringing's ? i'm using 0.4 and 0.6mm Nozzle and Generic PLA. Thanks!
Hi! Did you find any issues with the plate being heavier, mainly the Y-axis moving slower or having trouble stopping? I'm installing a glass bed today and was thinking if the heavier plate will need some movement speed corrections.
So how do you deal with layer shift on a glass bed? I had a glass plate on my printer. Got it leveled and the print to stick, but at about half way through the print it a layer shift and ruined the print.
This is really strange seeing glass is used instead of PEI. I am printing with PETG only and after using glass and having all the time troubles with it, I have switched to PEI magnetic one and that was the happiest upgrade. No glue anymore, cleaning the PEI bed once in 10-20 prints. No adhesion issues at all. Why going in reverse direction is mystery for me. Also why remove magnetic from platform - you can never switch back.
Get a raspberry Pi and klipper installed as well Tomasz. Much much faster prints with no loss in quality with input shaping and pressure advance and controllable from your phone, pc etc. Also I’m sure you’d like a homemade auto bed levelling device like the klackender probe. 😉
@@CasualDIY there really is lol. You won’t look back once you have a Pi it makes life so much easier. Btw I have designed one one these of you want to print one for your Rage 5s th-cam.com/video/5WBzoYQ3ScU/w-d-xo.html
@5:45, when you place the clips, doesn’t that subtract from the usable space of the 250x250 bed? Or did the designers already take that into consideration?
when i had my ender 3. it had glass bed with it. but the prints where not sticking to the glass bed. so i removed it. but what i did wrong? temperature of bed too low? or is the glass quality different or ii have to use some paper glue on the glass bed for adhesion? thanks. im buying new ender3 next week and I have tons of stuff to print for new project.
@@Adamtherealboss someone doesn’t understand English. I said should be smarter, the ender 3 is a slow ass printer and you’re a slow ass person if you disagree. It’s not what you should choose to start a business especially if you plan on producing large amounts of items. Silly little guy
@Casual DIY , I obtained the same bed which is 4mm thickness and I also have a CR touch automatic bed leveler for my Ender 3 (not the pro) that has a 4.2.7 board (I believe). are there any videos you recommend to help me to succeed at printing with this style of set up? I also noticed you are not using the included rubber separators that came with the glass bed. Why is that? I al using the rubber spacers but have noticed that it does not correctly level the bed. should I use those with the springs?
I have a Volxelab Aquila X3, and it doesnt have a y axis limiter. I cant find a setting to control that and ive tried every option on the printers interface. Any ideas?
Usually the prints are a lot smaller then the whole bed. Are you printing a large square that takes the whole bed? If not then place the clips where the bed is free on your project.
My adjustment wheel keeps spinning loose and coming off as I try to raise the bed..any ideas? I can't get the nozzle even touching on paper before it spins off.. which is weird because it was leveled just fine with my magnetic bed.
It seems the bed is too far away and the treads are too short. Have you changed the position of your limit switch for the gantry? Maybe the axis is too high?
@@CasualDIY so it actually fix itself i don't know what i did to it to fix it i was following your steps and it looks like it fix it i think it because the bed was sorter compare to the other bed but i don't think that would cause it.
I 100% forgot about the stop. Id been beatin my head against the wall trying to figure out how to get more adjustment out of the level knobs. Appreciate you taking the time to make the video brother.
thank you for watching
For anyone wondering what to use to get the glue off of the print bed after removing the magnetic bit, I turned the bed OFF and used acetone and a scraper. Turns it to slime and you can clean it off with a paper towel.
I use a glue stick & alcohol, it works well too in case you don't have acetone at reach
Brilliant! I replaced my magnetic bed, and installed the Creality glass bed, but always had issues leveling it properly. I missed the "move the microswitch down" step. I just ordered a new glass bed, and will be sure and follow your instructions this time. Thank you! Really enjoyed your video.
Glad it helped!
I guess I missed this step too, having tons of issues leveling the bed - what part of the video is that?!
@@ValVanni4:00 mark
IVE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO MAKE THE BEDPLATE NOT HIT THE NOSSIL FOR MONTHS THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you for watching 👍
Great video still need a slight tweak to a corner or two but everything is working pretty good so far. Bought the same plate you have as well.
Awesome video. I replaced my bed for the glass one and never could get anything to stick to the rigid side of the glass but once I flipped it over with the logo on the underside - no more issues! cant wait for the benchdog video keep up the great content! Tom
Thanks, so far had no issues with the print not sticking. The bench dog video should be out tomorrow 👍
Great video Tomasz, informative. I have the Ender 3 v2, upgrades I've done- BLTouch, dual z Axis lead screws, Raspberry Pi with Octoprprint. These mods significantly improve workflow. The rough surface on the glass bed is carborundum.
Tip, for prints that are reluctant to stick I use a glue stick, cleans off with a damp cloth and then isopropyl alcohol.
Good luck.
I was thinking of that improvement as well I just need to get some funds for it 🤣👍 so far had no issues with prints not sticking
@@CasualDIY totally understand, it's something that can be upgraded over time as you get use to it.
I did like the dogs you printed.
I have en ender 3 not the pro one though but i am going to use your tutorial as i thought i could figure it out on my own. we'll see how it goes.
edit: well this video helped me a lot. thank you! when i tired it myself with the glass bed nothing was sticking. now its sticking and the test print seems to be printing ok.
Good luck with it 👍
I followed your tutorial and I gotta say it has helped me out very much with the prints not wanting to stick, I'll be sticking with the glass bed. Also you have my subscribe and like button ❤️
Glad to hear it 😀and welcome aboard 👍
You don't need a special glass build plate. Common window glass about 3/16" thick will work just fine. If the glass is clean and heated to about 60C, PLA will stick to it like crazy. ABS and PETG might need a bit of glue stick. As the bed heats slowly, even common window glass won't crack from the heat, just don't let any water fall on the heated glass or it WILL CRACK! Same with cool down, let it cool to room temp slowly before removing the glass plate from the bed. I've found that I can remove hard stuck prints from the glass by putting the plate in the freezer for about 10 minutes. It cools slowly enough that it won't crack.
Some good tips there thank you
I will have to try the freezer trick.
Good info Tomasz, that magnetic base looked like it was a bit tough to remove, I’m glad my ender actually came with a glass plate. I’ve found that changing the bed springs to the stronger ones available maintains the levelling better 👍.
It wasn't too hard but I wouldn't say it was easy either 😅
Yes the springs, read about that, could be my next improvement👍
I've fitted the yellow springs to my Ender 3v2, and they seem to keep the bed level for a lot longer.
@@EcoHamletsUK so it's a worth investment 👌
Would it not have been easier to leave the magnetic sheet in place and lightly spray it using silicone lubricant in an aerosol can to prevent the glass plate from sticking?
@@ianmathieson65 if it would work then maybe, but I don't intend to go back to the magnetic ones
If you use an untextured glass bed don't have to remove the magnetic sheet at all because it's thicker then a normal bed meaning you can level it once and not have to worry about leveling it after like 3 months
I love the magnetic beds but I am so tired of punching holes in the because the offset changed slightly. Going to give glass a second try.
Hey, I'm not sure how sensitive 3d printers are with milled surfaces since I mostly work with machine tools but you really should try using a plastic scrapper next time. That steel scrapper is leaving small gouges in the milled aluminum plate.
That's a good point actually 🤔 👍
Did you do a video about your change of workshop it looked if you went from a single brick garage to something clean and spacious
Got few videos from the first days in my new workshop and what work I had to do to get it to this point👍
Thanks for the video Tomasz. Looking forward to seeing what you are up to with the bench dogs. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Thank you. There should be a short video on them next week 👍
I wasn’t able to use the mat that long that came in box before it was damaged.
Thanks Tomasz, another really helpful one. Looking forward to seeing how you combine woodwork and CAM in the future. Cheers.
Thank you for watching 👍
goof off. goof off is amazing. industrial adhesive remover is even better.
Hey bro thanks for the info you did a great job and helped me a lot. Keep it up man
Glad that my video was some help
Really excellent video, Tomasz! Thanks a lot for all the info! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you kindly my friend. All the best 👍
THANKS YOU SO MUCH!!! I could not figure this put😂
Glad that my video was some help 👍
Thank you so much for the detail information
Glad it was helpful!
So I need to adjust the z stop. I got it to work first time on the stock springs but it only works with the stock springs in my case. I upgraded because I'm tired of leveling it all the hid damn time. I will have to do that this weekend once I'm missing the Allen wrench
Really appreciate this video saved me some time. Thanks man
Glad that my video was some help 👍
thanks a million! very helpful!
Can I use GOO GONE to remove the sticky residue?
Never used it don't know.
This worked so good for me, thank you
Glad to hear it
Dame intro music to vice grip garage 🤣🤣🤣🤣 good informative video 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
What is the differences between ender original glass vs ordinary (window) glass??
Is it more scratch resistant? Or may be won't break when fall on to the floor??
The Ender glass bed is not smooth on one side which helps with adhesion. I think if you throw it hard enough it will break.
It autohomes really fast, do you have an updated board?
No everything is standard as I can remember you can set up the speed
Oh I didn’t know, I tought maybe you had the 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 board
How did you remove remaining the glue residue from the plate?
Just used some rubbing alcohol. It came off nicely. But if the bed is heated up you can scrape it off with plastic scraper of some sort.
i see when you printing those parts are not stringing. do you mind to share the absolute settings to get rid of messy stringing's ? i'm using 0.4 and 0.6mm Nozzle and Generic PLA. Thanks!
Hehe well I'm using the cheapest pla filament I can get and the settings are the are the 'recommended' basics settings in Cura slicer. That's it.
Hi! Did you find any issues with the plate being heavier, mainly the Y-axis moving slower or having trouble stopping? I'm installing a glass bed today and was thinking if the heavier plate will need some movement speed corrections.
Had no issues at all
So how do you deal with layer shift on a glass bed? I had a glass plate on my printer. Got it leveled and the print to stick, but at about half way through the print it a layer shift and ruined the print.
Do you mean the bottom layer came loose of the glass plate?
Do you absolutely need to scrape the magnetic film of because i would like to use the normal bed also
I think it will still work but it will take longer to heat up tho.
Thanks I needed rhis
Thank you for watching 👍
Thanks for your video sir
Thank you for watching
This is really strange seeing glass is used instead of PEI. I am printing with PETG only and after using glass and having all the time troubles with it, I have switched to PEI magnetic one and that was the happiest upgrade. No glue anymore, cleaning the PEI bed once in 10-20 prints. No adhesion issues at all.
Why going in reverse direction is mystery for me.
Also why remove magnetic from platform - you can never switch back.
Well everyone has different experiences by the looks of things.
Get a raspberry Pi and klipper installed as well Tomasz. Much much faster prints with no loss in quality with input shaping and pressure advance and controllable from your phone, pc etc. Also I’m sure you’d like a homemade auto bed levelling device like the klackender probe. 😉
Oh so many upgrades ahead of me 👍😁
@@CasualDIY there really is lol. You won’t look back once you have a Pi it makes life so much easier. Btw I have designed one one these of you want to print one for your Rage 5s th-cam.com/video/5WBzoYQ3ScU/w-d-xo.html
@5:45, when you place the clips, doesn’t that subtract from the usable space of the 250x250 bed? Or did the designers already take that into consideration?
It does substtract from the table. However I have never had a project to fully use the whole bed, so... not an issue for me
when i had my ender 3. it had glass bed with it.
but the prints where not sticking to the glass bed. so i removed it.
but what i did wrong? temperature of bed too low? or is the glass quality different or ii have to use some paper glue on the glass bed for adhesion?
thanks. im buying new ender3 next week and I have tons of stuff to print for new project.
Some people suggest to use hair spray or just paper glue. So far not had that problem on mine even when I don't clean the bed regularly.
Anyone building for business needs the whole plate. Binder clips just don't work unless you want more manufacturing time.
Anyone building for a business should be smarter than using an ender 3 for efficiency with manufacture time
@@ItsMeAverage someone has no idea about print farms and the most common printer. I wonder how much business you have done yourself?
@@Adamtherealboss someone doesn’t understand English. I said should be smarter, the ender 3 is a slow ass printer and you’re a slow ass person if you disagree. It’s not what you should choose to start a business especially if you plan on producing large amounts of items. Silly little guy
Do you remove the film on the glass bed?
Yes
@Casual DIY , I obtained the same bed which is 4mm thickness and I also have a CR touch automatic bed leveler for my Ender 3 (not the pro) that has a 4.2.7 board (I believe). are there any videos you recommend to help me to succeed at printing with this style of set up? I also noticed you are not using the included rubber separators that came with the glass bed. Why is that? I al using the rubber spacers but have noticed that it does not correctly level the bed. should I use those with the springs?
I don't have the automatic bed leveller so can't really say. I don't see the need for an extra rubber separators.
I have a Volxelab Aquila X3, and it doesnt have a y axis limiter. I cant find a setting to control that and ive tried every option on the printers interface. Any ideas?
Never worked with that machine so no idea sorry.
hi do i need to chnage any printer setting gantry height ?
Just leveling the bed
How do i stop the print head from hitting clips?
Usually the prints are a lot smaller then the whole bed. Are you printing a large square that takes the whole bed? If not then place the clips where the bed is free on your project.
Now printer needs to print some parts to improve itself
Hehe yes that's on the agenda 😁👍
Iu
My adjustment wheel keeps spinning loose and coming off as I try to raise the bed..any ideas? I can't get the nozzle even touching on paper before it spins off.. which is weird because it was leveled just fine with my magnetic bed.
It seems the bed is too far away and the treads are too short. Have you changed the position of your limit switch for the gantry? Maybe the axis is too high?
for the switch thing do i need to that on my ender 3 vs 2? cause it came with the glass bed and i didn't do that.
Could you drop me a time stamp so I know which part you are referring to exactly please?
@@CasualDIY so it actually fix itself i don't know what i did to it to fix it i was following your steps and it looks like it fix it i think it because the bed was sorter compare to the other bed but i don't think that would cause it.