Warped Bed: printable solution for a perfect first layer!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ย. 2019
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Glass, tape, obsessive bed leveling… Are you fed up with all this?
Give a look to the video and let me know if it worked for you in the comment section below!
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This woild be great if my bed was level and could print that large shape😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂
same, mine cant even print spaghetti at the moment.
This was a great idea. I have done something like this in the past but with a non heated bed. I will have to give this a try with a heated surface. Great job keep up the good work.
Wow! Very out of the box thinking! I might try this!
Thank you! Let me know if you try and how it turns out for you!
Interesting idea but I don't see how this would fix a warped bed. The printed honeycomb layer will just flex to conform to the warped bed then the layer on top will also flex. You need to account for the warping (i.e. having the honeycomb be thicker in the center). Also as others have said the trapped air makes an excellent insulator, and also it will totally deform if you print with high bed temps
The printer head moves straight no mater what and will always be level so in areas that the printer bed is farther the printed line will be thinner but still up to the nozzle and areas where the nozzle is closer the printed line will be thicker but still always high as the plane the nozzle is on. It will not conform to the bed because the nozzle is not moving up and down with the warping of the bed.
If you try to print a thing print with an obviously warped bed, you'll notice that it's thinner in some areas and thicker in other areas, the print will deform accordingly to the warp of the bed, but the top layer will remain square with the movement of the nozzle, so printing this honeycomb structure will result in a build surface that is deformed at the bottom in a way that conforms with the deformation of the bed, and a top layer that is perfectly flat with the nozzle axis
Genius!!!
Just did the trick on my ender3 pro and it´s perfect!!!
Didn´t need any magnets because it´s thin enough make the magnetic bed stick!
You are a f**king HERO!
Great! These kind of comments is why I keep doing it!!
Did you use tape on the bed magnet to print on, then slap build plate on that or did you print straight onto the bed magnet.
After one hour googling solutions for my warped printer bed.... I pushed down hard with both my hands at the center of the bed. One hard push down and tested the printer. Printing perfectly now, no more levelling problems.
Im having the same issue with mine where the middle is higher than the rest did this work in the long run or have you had any more issues?
@@chrissvado5087 Still working fine, still a little warped but it is minimal now and have no printing issues.
I’m not quite sure I get how this helps with bed leveling. If there’s a dip in your bed or the bed isn’t level and you print a honeycomb design on top of that, when you put your plate on top of that honeycomb design unless you’ve accounted for the difference in the bed height from the dips or warps and added more material in those spots your bed plate is still going to be warped or dipped once you put it on the honeycomb thing right?
Wow great video. i was already thinking of the same solution. Nice to see i wasnt the only one, saves me alot of work ;p
Glad it helped!
This is perfect for the cheap ctc printer I got. Print plate is like a rally stage
Try it and let me know! 😀
Nice idea, instead of removing material you did what 3d printing is about - added a material . Yet now there is a lot of air pockets under the build surface. And air is a good thermal isolation. What about heating time and bed temperature stability?
Regards!
You got it right! As for the heat transfer, I have a followup video. Many people use glass, which is also a thermal insulator and usually way thicker than 1mm (like air in this case). Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/4JF_QJtj6TI/w-d-xo.html
You should publish a list of upgrades. I want my Ender 3 to look like yours :)
There is a Playlist in the channel... ;-)
@@AMakeDesigns could you please be more specific, I've never heard of a playlist in the channel or how to find it. Thank you very much.
this is the link to the ender-3 playlist th-cam.com/play/PLorB9YAJ5xFg9oETgUFynPJj9jOrsIvd6.html
and this is for the Lerdge th-cam.com/play/PLorB9YAJ5xFgUw8CZmZJTiLUWTpXHxax9.html
Thank you for sharing. What were your printer settings for the slicer?
Just don't do any brim or skirt, print slow, no special needs
A-Make Designs thank you
This looks like a perfect solution to the geometry problem, but what about the droid attack on the wookies? I mean it seem that the extra layer will be acting quite like a heat insulator. Wouldn't this be a problem on a heated bed?
I have a video looking into that. I get this a lot but no one seems to notice that glass is a thermal insulator and putting a 4mm slab will more or less do the same thing if not worse.
May the force be with you.
Bed Heat Map: is my honeycomb making any difference?
th-cam.com/video/4JF_QJtj6TI/w-d-xo.html
Cool!
I had this idea, but wasn't sure if it would work. Did you print with top layer ironing to get it as flat as possible?
Not really. I printed it normally
Interesting idea! Any issues with heat transfer from bed heater to print surface?
It doesn't seem so. I'm collecting the instruments then I will measure. Glass is not very conductive either, and the honeycomb is just 1mm thick.
True. Glass is definitely worse than metal by a factor of a couple hundreds watts per blah per whatever.
However, the same is true for air as compared to glass. So I was wondering about those air pockets, whether they have a clearly visible effect. But apparently they don't 👍
Ok course air is insulating but thickness do matter. I will followup!
@@AMakeDesigns So, do you have a follow up?
I sure do! It's here th-cam.com/video/4JF_QJtj6TI/w-d-xo.html
I am sorry. But did you mention the material you used for the hexagon bed?
I used PLA just because i have an old roll I have to get rid of. You can use PETG or ABS if you use high heat on the bed
Am sorry , i don't understand, is there not an insulation effect between heat bed and build plate?
The answer to your question is here :-) ! Bed Heat Map
th-cam.com/video/4JF_QJtj6TI/w-d-xo.html
Wouldn't you have a problem with your print of this honeycomb pattern since you start without a level bed - warped surface?
The molten plastic will adapt for the first layer exactly like it happens in a normal print. It will squish more or less due to the warp, then from the second layer onwards it will be ok
essex0chris depends how bad your printer is warped. Mine would print in the air in the center and fine in corners.
I came for the genius idea, but I stayed for the party. I’m fist pumping alone in my room rn
Non ho capito cosa hai usato per i rettangoli calamitati.. e piu che altro puoi linkarmi la lastrina in metallo? sto piano livellato mi sta veramente ossessionando
Ciao Gabriele! I rettangoli calamitati sono magneti flessibili da lavagna.
Il piatto in acciaio lo trovi qui : Ender-3 super cheap Steel-PEI BED review [SUB ITA] th-cam.com/video/68905devmu0/w-d-xo.html
Magnet Expert Ltd, Set di biglietti da visita magnetici, 89 x 51 x 0,8 mm, 10 pz, Marrone (braun) www.amazon.it/dp/B008UAC5Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z6Y-DbC14BMTW
I like shimming with sheets of Aluminum Foil, and then put a magnetic sheet (I like Flexiplate Spring Steel sheets)
You are welcome to use anything that works for you! The beauty of this method is that you don't need to find out where it's low.
It's just a printed sheet
Man my bed was warped so I got a glass bed and that bed is still warped in the same spot even with the glass. Anyone have any advice. I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I've leveled the bed and everything.
Glass is stiff but not infinitely. You have to shim the low parts
I'm kind of surprised how well this worked
Great! Really happy it worked for you!
I'm confused. How does this make the bed flat!
The lower layers follow the same profile, then the top layers fill it up
My printer is high in the middle, but I will give this a try
Great! Let me know how it goes!
@@AMakeDesigns it wasn't as bad as I thought. I came up with 2 solutions. 1 was to take thin metal shims and the other solution was the easiest. As I noticed once the z reaches a point above the print everything looks good. So what I did was lvl above the 4 screws then proceed to print. I always use a brim and during the print I noticed it too close so I proceeded to babystep the z and yep perfect print.
How is this holding up?
Very good indeed
I don't understand how that would fix a warped bed? The honeycomb layer and flex plate on top would also be warped since it's placed on top?
Nope. The honeycomb will be tram to the gantry. The filament is soft and adapts itself
After 3 mins I gave up you’re too smart, but my bed is like a cereal bowl shape from its warping and its almost impossible to do...
Awww... Sorry to hear that!
you could put (really)thin paper on the low spots and just print the hexagon pattern over it, and hope for the best!
Hello bro greetings from.philippines
you can grind the plate......
I actually thought of finding a machine shop and having this done.
Try this first ;-)
I don’t understand
I don't get it. What are you doing? How can you print the honeycomb without your bed being almost perfectly flat already? If a bed is warped it won't stick in certain place. So the whole honeycomb only works if you are already very close to perfect :(
well... it's a whole piece, so even if the adhesion is not perfect in some areas, the whole thing will stay in place. We are talking about a few tenths of a mm, so the first layer may sag a little, but the next layer will take care of it. It's the same thing as with a normal print.
@@AMakeDesigns Thanks. I will try it. Hmm..Cura: slicing results in Error. Even setting Ender3 Printhead Xmin/max and Ymin/max to 0 doesn't help.
ibb.co/2FF1fjd
@@AMakeDesigns Also, I am not sure what tape to use to mask the aluminium bed. I don't have the blue one you are using. I am afraid the heat might bake the thing to the bed and/or create toxic smells every time I print.
I used Scotch Blue masking tape, but I think any masking tape will do. I have no funky smells (it's the same tape I use when I print PETG). For the slicing, Cura for some reason considers part of the Ender-3 bed off-limits. You can overcome this by creating a custom FDM printer with 235x235 bed.
@@AMakeDesigns I did my best following your instructions. I added a custom FFF printer in Cura and copied the machine settings of the Ender3. Still no luck slicing. Maybe you could try to do the slicing in Cura and tell us what we do wrong?
dislike because... you give up heating and it "works" only if your printer is able to print over the whole bed. WHICH NONE CAN WITH A WARPED BED (mine dips by 1.8mm)
in my honest opinion, this video doesn't solve anything and certainly won't help ppl with their warped beds
You don't give up heating at all. I don't understand why everyone is so concerned by 1mm of air gap but not of 3mm of glass. I have a followup video where I demonstrated that the heating is absolutely possible.
As for your 1.8mm dip, that's something that can hardly be fixed.
@@AMakeDesigns Good if it works for you. Just saying air has a much smaller thermal conductivity than glass (about 0.3 vs 1.2 to 1.8 W·m−1·K−1 both@100deg c). The only difference at 60deg c is probably just the consumed wall-power.
After some hard punishment for the bed (cut a 5mm hardfoam frame and screw-clamp down to table, several times until the dip starts to disappear. checked with ruler against light each time). Now with some foil, i can at least use 200 of the 235mm. I use the stock Creality magnet-bendy-whatever that came with it.
Others out there bought 3 beds until they could finally print something. Waitaminute...if you "remix" the design maybe it can even work for extreme cases like mine xD
But i guess "You get what you pay" pretty much applies. Still a great machine once it works, this Ender3.
@CyLuS_sEcToR9 you can scale the design in x-y in the slicer. Consider this is 1mm thick vs. glass that is usually 3-5mm. This is my thermal measurement, I lose around 10C from the bed thermistor reading to the outer surface: th-cam.com/video/4JF_QJtj6TI/w-d-xo.html