What a legend I watched this video first when it came out years ago and saved it to my “KEEPER” playlist today I was researching about a similar problem and this video came up again reminding me of good old days
You use his video in your business, he takes the time to reply to you, and you don't respond in-turn? Shit go Daniel. (you didn't even say 'thanks' either) 😔
This helped me alot. I encountered the same code, did the neccessary tests and ended up pulling the manifold off completely to clean it all up. What I have noticed after clearing the codes once cleaned is that the egr was about 100% at idle until temps reached above 70deg. Then it would drop down to 75% or less. Reving the engine without load gave me a 0% reading. Anyway, no codes thrown so far since cleaning.
Thanks Simon, The Common Rail Diesel, especially these Tritons are notorious for blocked intake systems. I have been using ultrasonic cleaning and the customers have noticed a huge improvement in power and engine smoothness. After the clean or any change to the fuel/intake system, including valve clearances, it is also recommended to do a small injection quantity relearn. I am recommending every time that I adjust the valve clearances that the intake system is cleaned. It may be an option to do intake system spray clean maybe every second time (I am still experimenting), but it is crucial that the intake system is kept clean. Here in Australia, poor fuel quality is one major contributing factor. Thanks for your comments :) MiracleMAX
Very informative video. I encountered this problem. I already clean the egr valve, i erased the dtc but it still comeback.. I think it really need to change the motor because the circuit is complete.
Have you removed the EGR and checked the motor like shown in the video? Can you see the motor moving? Has the position sensor been checked? Are you able to do activations with your scan tool? Is the intake system clear of carbon build up? (9.21) If the circuit in the motor is OK, is it physically worn or is the EGR valve sticking? Homemade Smoke Machine To The Rescue MiracleMAX - th-cam.com/video/Qx2nT-GTejc/w-d-xo.html Hopefully, these are some things to think about and help you to diagnose your vehicle successfully. :)
Hello Max, excellent video, thanks for all the info. I have a similar problem with my 2.5 triton, the EGR have been already been replaced and the code persists. I don't have the tools to do a diagnosis like you, but with the engine light still on, i removed the motor of the EGR and when i turn the vehicle on i can see the egr motor moving, also if i push with my fingers on the valve i can move it, so im thinking that the EGR is not stuck and the motor its also receiving signal and working. What else should i be checking? I also notice that if i let the engine idle for a few minutes after i turn it on, then when I'm driving around at 2000 or 3000 rpm, i feel like the power get inconsistent. Thanks!
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the reply, I only have a multimeter, the code is also P2413, do you think the map sensor may have something to do with it? When you spray the cleaner through the map sensor hose, you did that to clean the intake and the EGR? Or to clean map sensor conduct?
@@Carloscf13 It is very difficult to make suggestions without inspecting it myself. If you have limited tools and knowledge on testing procedures, it may be best to take it to a local workshop where they can examine live data and carry out activations with a scan tool. I have found this relating to your fault code that may be helpful. mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/pajero_iv/online/Service_Manual/2008_eu/13/html/M113350830014200ENG.HTM
Hi Max, I didn’t get to see on the video how you got the EGR to work with the system after you tested the EGR motors and it’s potentiometer. You mentioned you just needed to clear the codes. Though from your initial scans, it shows that there are still pending EGR trouble codes. So my question is what did you do that eliminated the pending EGR trouble codes. From your video, after you checked the motor next is that you are already testing the performance after a week and you just mentioned you cleared the codes (not yet doing the intake manifold spray cleaning) and from the scans the EGR is already working. Did I miss something?
Hey Michael, With these Tritons (18:36), you need to clear the codes before you can carry out any activations. As I said, these are very bad for carbon build-up. Once I cleared the codes, I was able to do activations and after the clean, the check engine light stayed out. Remember I did clean the EGR valve on the bench. These EGR valves do wear and allow air to be drawn past the shaft, creating poor idle and a sticky EGR valve. The same vehicle later had an EGR cooler leak as well as an EGR leak, which is shown below. Homemade Smoke Machine To The Rescue MiracleMAX th-cam.com/video/Qx2nT-GTejc/w-d-xo.html I also later removed the inlet manifold and cleaned it ultrasonically. I don't think I did a video of that repair, but man, did it need it! This is the only way to fix the carbon issue correctly. The sprays are only temporary for the diesels and should only be done as a maintenance program. Not all technicians agree. Here in Australia, we have poor fuel quality and that is one of the main reasons our diesels have huge carbon issues. The guy has only recently sold this vehicle with over 400,000 Km on the clock and guess what he bought - another Mitsubishi Triton!
Thanks Max for these added information! I have the same issue with my Strada(Triton) here in the Philippines and I’m trying to diagnose what exactly is happening. Watching your video gave me excellent information about this topic. Hats of to you mate! Great work! Odd thing about my EGR, when I go up the mountains (cold and high altitude) the next time I turn the engine on, the Check Engine Light disappears, then when I go back down to the plains, it turns on again.
@@michaelacepcion8941 Hey Michael, What type of scan tool are you using? Does it have 'Live Data' available? Did you check for vacuum leaks, like shown in the 'Homemade Smoke Machine' video? Since it changes with altitude when you go up into the mountains, have you checked the Air Flow Meter? Here's an example of what an Air Flow Meter should do. Toyota Echo Hesitates Under Acceleration th-cam.com/video/PMg50o_fhXQ/w-d-xo.html Note what it should be at idle (in your case, if it is a 2.5Lt engine, then it should be roughly 2.5 gm/s) and then through the rev range. This sensor helps the ECU to make adjustments according to air density, which is changed by temperature, altitude, air speed and also the use of a turbo. Do you have any fault codes I can help with?
@@MiracleMAX Hi Max, I'm only using a cheap OBD2 scanner reader. I had P2413 DTC code ever since, I had my EGR system cleaned from time to time, but the Check Engine Light never disappeared. The shops I went to and even at the dealer weren't able to diagnose what exactly is the fault. And during these times I have noticed the CEL light going off whenever I was up in the mountains. From my researches I found that the ECU takes information from the MAF sensor, and as such I cleaned it but sadly no effect on the CEL for P2413, your video on the MAF provided me a more indepth check, I found that the flow rate at idle (my engine is 3.2L) is about ~24g/sec which is over-reporting if it's supposed to be only 3.2g/s. Although recently I had some problem on acceleration having hesitations, and also loss power when I was going up a steep hill, it threw a code P1272, this I was able to resolve by servicing my SCV, I'm wondering that it may be that I haven't had the relearn special function done after my SCV servicing that it may be causing the high flow rate at idle, I have to get that checked before I decide to have the MAF sensor replaced. I already have a new EGR valve ready but haven't replaced it yet as I do the testings, I still have doubts. I'll try to make the smoke machine and do a leak test, but it doesn't seem like I have leaks as the engine is quite clean without the visible soots that would be coming from leaks.
@@michaelacepcion8941 Hey Michael, Does your scan tool do 'Live Data'? The P2413 code is most likely a faulty EGR. Firstly you have to make sure that the ECU is actually commanding the EGR operation. This will be a duty cycle signal. Do you have a multimeter with a duty cycle function? If not you may be able to see a pulsed signal with an LED test light. Check out the video above for wiring connections. You state that you have had the 'EGR system cleaned from time to time'. Was this Ultrasonically cleaned off the vehicle or just an intake spray being used? How many Kms has the vehicle done? As you can imagine, 24g/sec is HUGELY over-reporting & will create all sort of problems. Sometimes you just can't clean a MAF - replacement is the only solution. Yes, there are relearn procedures that must be carried out in the special function section of a bi-directional scan tool. Yours will not be up to the task if is only a reader. If you have sorted the Suction Control Valve, this will not change the MAF sensor reading as it is a Mass Air Flow sensor and only an ECU input. Therefore if it is over-reporting air intake, the ECU will add more fuel since it thinks that more air is going in than what is actually being drawn in by the motor.
Sorry, not sure if I understand you correctly. Are you suggesting that you do a forced regen while spraying intake cleaner into the intake system? A forced regen should only be done as a last resort, not on a regular basis. This can be damaging to the DPF. Remember, it is just a filter. Adding extra fuel during this process (intake cleaner) will raise temperatures even more, creating a greater opportunity for the DPF to increase in temperature and result in possible melting of the substructure
G'day Max, thankyou for an absolutely brilliant and informative video. I've got an MN just like that one and it's misfiring like all buggery. My $20 Bluetooth obd scanner and simple app, intuitively called 'Car Scanner' (lol) is detecting misfire injector #1 and indicating Injector #1 circuit malfunction, it hasn't given me any egr related codes but i've been told (by a 'blue singlet warrior') that this could be caused by excessive buildup from the egr. Anyway, I'm just starting the diagnostic process now, and your video has provided a very valuable insight into whats going on, so again, thanks for that mate. Cheers! ** btw, you're obviously a TAFE teacher (wouldn't be Miller, would it?) so i'm not going to use the language that I'd like to use, but just like to say 's*#t go @DanielMartin in the comments, used your video for his work, you were decent enough to reply to him, and i see he never replied back. Bad form Daniel).
Hey Paul, I'm glad that this video helped. For some reason I get a lot of Tritons to work on, so have a look thru my videos if you need any other help with yours. Carbon build up is one of the main killers for these engines. Just keep in mind that the injector is both electrical as well as a mechanically operating solenoid, with moving parts. Let me know how you go with your diagnosis and if I can offer any help, I am happy to share what I know. To be a good teacher, you have to be teachable, willing to learn. Look forward to hearing your progress. Cheers MiracleMAX
I have the same problem, how about a video taking the egr out and cleaning it? That would be really helpful as a DIY. Will definetely subscribe if I see it. I've been getting terrible fuel consumption, 18 mpg at best. Everything else is fine, I know this must be coming from a bad o dirty egr. Please let me know if there is a video on how to take it apart. Thanks
Hey francisco salazar, Did you check out this video at 15:22? I pull off the EGR to clean it. As you can see the EGR has shaft wear and later gets replaced. You can use all sorts of cleaners, but you never will truly clean it. Homemade Smoke Machine To The Rescue MiracleMAX th-cam.com/video/Qx2nT-GTejc/w-d-xo.html In the case of an EGR - 'If in doubt, chuck it out.' The only true way to clean carbon from an EGR or inlet system is by Ultra Sonically cleaning it off the vehicle. Sorry, that's just the way it is.
@@MiracleMAX hi, yup. Great vid I really learnt a lot from it. But muy question is on the process of getting it out. Taking the screws apart and pulling it out the engine. I am looking forward on taking it out and doing it myself
@@franciscosalazar8753 Hey francisco salazar, I don't have a video specifically on EGR replacement, but if you follow along with this video, it might be enough to walk you through the process. Homemade Smoke Machine To The Rescue MiracleMAX th-cam.com/video/Qx2nT-GTejc/w-d-xo.html 6:31 Shows the location of the EGR valve - at the rear of the vehicle on the inlet side. 6:44 Shows the EGR valve together with the housing that it is bolted to. 7:16 Shows the EGR valve off the inlet manifold. See there are 4 bolts that hold it onto the manifold. 14mm bolts if I remember correctly.....I could be wrong! :) At the other end is a pipe that I have removed off the EGR cooler. It is easier to remove them together and then disassemble them on the bench. Don't forget, if you replace the EGR and remove an EGR cooler pipe, make sure that you replace the gaskets as well. 7:53 Shows where the EGR cooler pipe is removed from. I think the bolts are 12mm. Once again, don't quote me on it! 12:12 Make sure you check for straightness of the EGR cooler transfer pipes while they are off. You only need to take off the rear one, but in my case, I was chasing a noise as well. 17:25 Shows the EGR valve being changed over onto the cooler pipe. 18:18 Is where the EGR pipes and valve are reinstalled onto the vehicle. Simples! :) I hope that helps you with your repair. MiracleMAX
Hey Atrul Nisha, I haven't personally seen that. What fault codes do you have? Have you tried clearing them? There may be other codes not related to the EGR causing the limp mode. MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the reply unfortunately there's no fault codes but as soon as I drive my Mitsubishi l200 it doesn't change gears as I rev up it jolts then the D light starts blinking and the transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear.so if I turn off the ignition then restart the D light stops blinking and the truck drives normal but it repeats its cycle I have checked the pcm and replaced it with new still same so I changed the entire transmission with the same spec still the same so now I'm looking for the transmission control relay which I can't find even I took out the dashboard the relay and fuse in the fuse box are good
@@atrulnisha3962 Sounds like you've done a lot of work on your vehicle! What scan tool have you been using? When you say the 'D' light, do you mean the Check Engine Light? I would be surprised if there were no codes. I would expect at least a 'pending' code. Does your engine use a DPF? Did you check the OBDII side of your scan tool or just the manufacturers side? Did you do a full system scan or just a powertrain scan? What is the exact year, engine size & model of your vehicle?
Hey Ford Taurus, In this case the fault was intermittent due to carbon and a worn EGR valve. It had completed a drive cycle and confirmed that there was a fault at the time of the cycle. Once the fault was cleared, the EGR started operating again. About a year later the EGR valve was replaced due to excessive wear. MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX when i already cleaned it then re scan I have a dtc p2413 then I streamed the egr target like you did but it reads 0% maybe I'll replace the egr motor,
@@sucesojr.escanilla5866 So you are saying that it has a high idle? Is it petrol or diesel, what year is it & what is the engine size and code, please? Do you have a scan tool? These do have issues with the idle speed control motor, but further testing should be done before replacing any parts.
@@sucesojr.escanilla5866 P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input. Does your scan tool have 'live data'? If so, what is the fuel pressure reading at idle and at higher revs? P2413 Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Performance. Can you see if the target and actual EGR readings are the same or close? Is the EGR operating? Just like in the video, I had to clear the codes before I could actuate the EGR. Is the intake system clear of carbon? These are bad for carbon build-up.
![Valve clearance adjustment - Mitsubishi 4D56U Common rail DI-D [ TRITON & PAJERO SPORT ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WNJT9Q1Qing/mqdefault.jpg)
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
What a legend
I watched this video first when it came out years ago and saved it to my “KEEPER” playlist today I was researching about a similar problem and this video came up again reminding me of good old days
Hardly a legend, but thanks heaps for your comment. Glad the video was helpful. More Triton videos to come 👍😉
I have the exact same car in my workshop with the same codes and issues. This video helped me progress the diagnosis.
Hey Daniel,
Great to hear from you. So were you able to diagnose and repair the vehicle at this stage?
MiracleMAX
You use his video in your business, he takes the time to reply to you, and you don't respond in-turn? Shit go Daniel. (you didn't even say 'thanks' either) 😔
This helped me alot. I encountered the same code, did the neccessary tests and ended up pulling the manifold off completely to clean it all up. What I have noticed after clearing the codes once cleaned is that the egr was about 100% at idle until temps reached above 70deg. Then it would drop down to 75% or less. Reving the engine without load gave me a 0% reading. Anyway, no codes thrown so far since cleaning.
Thanks Simon,
The Common Rail Diesel, especially these Tritons are notorious for blocked intake systems. I have been using ultrasonic cleaning and the customers have noticed a huge improvement in power and engine smoothness. After the clean or any change to the fuel/intake system, including valve clearances, it is also recommended to do a small injection quantity relearn.
I am recommending every time that I adjust the valve clearances that the intake system is cleaned. It may be an option to do intake system spray clean maybe every second time (I am still experimenting), but it is crucial that the intake system is kept clean. Here in Australia, poor fuel quality is one major contributing factor.
Thanks for your comments :)
MiracleMAX
Very informative video. I encountered this problem. I already clean the egr valve, i erased the dtc but it still comeback.. I think it really need to change the motor because the circuit is complete.
Have you removed the EGR and checked the motor like shown in the video? Can you see the motor moving? Has the position sensor been checked? Are you able to do activations with your scan tool? Is the intake system clear of carbon build up? (9.21) If the circuit in the motor is OK, is it physically worn or is the EGR valve sticking? Homemade Smoke Machine To The Rescue MiracleMAX - th-cam.com/video/Qx2nT-GTejc/w-d-xo.html
Hopefully, these are some things to think about and help you to diagnose your vehicle successfully. :)
Hello Max, excellent video, thanks for all the info. I have a similar problem with my 2.5 triton, the EGR have been already been replaced and the code persists. I don't have the tools to do a diagnosis like you, but with the engine light still on, i removed the motor of the EGR and when i turn the vehicle on i can see the egr motor moving, also if i push with my fingers on the valve i can move it, so im thinking that the EGR is not stuck and the motor its also receiving signal and working. What else should i be checking? I also notice that if i let the engine idle for a few minutes after i turn it on, then when I'm driving around at 2000 or 3000 rpm, i feel like the power get inconsistent. Thanks!
What tools do you have - a multimeter, scan tool or an oscilloscope? What codes do you have?
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the reply, I only have a multimeter, the code is also P2413, do you think the map sensor may have something to do with it? When you spray the cleaner through the map sensor hose, you did that to clean the intake and the EGR? Or to clean map sensor conduct?
@@Carloscf13 It is very difficult to make suggestions without inspecting it myself. If you have limited tools and knowledge on testing procedures, it may be best to take it to a local workshop where they can examine live data and carry out activations with a scan tool.
I have found this relating to your fault code that may be helpful.
mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/pajero_iv/online/Service_Manual/2008_eu/13/html/M113350830014200ENG.HTM
Hi Max, I didn’t get to see on the video how you got the EGR to work with the system after you tested the EGR motors and it’s potentiometer. You mentioned you just needed to clear the codes. Though from your initial scans, it shows that there are still pending EGR trouble codes. So my question is what did you do that eliminated the pending EGR trouble codes. From your video, after you checked the motor next is that you are already testing the performance after a week and you just mentioned you cleared the codes (not yet doing the intake manifold spray cleaning) and from the scans the EGR is already working. Did I miss something?
Hey Michael,
With these Tritons (18:36), you need to clear the codes before you can carry out any activations. As I said, these are very bad for carbon build-up. Once I cleared the codes, I was able to do activations and after the clean, the check engine light stayed out. Remember I did clean the EGR valve on the bench.
These EGR valves do wear and allow air to be drawn past the shaft, creating poor idle and a sticky EGR valve.
The same vehicle later had an EGR cooler leak as well as an EGR leak, which is shown below.
Homemade Smoke Machine To The Rescue MiracleMAX th-cam.com/video/Qx2nT-GTejc/w-d-xo.html
I also later removed the inlet manifold and cleaned it ultrasonically. I don't think I did a video of that repair, but man, did it need it! This is the only way to fix the carbon issue correctly. The sprays are only temporary for the diesels and should only be done as a maintenance program. Not all technicians agree. Here in Australia, we have poor fuel quality and that is one of the main reasons our diesels have huge carbon issues.
The guy has only recently sold this vehicle with over 400,000 Km on the clock and guess what he bought - another Mitsubishi Triton!
Thanks Max for these added information! I have the same issue with my Strada(Triton) here in the Philippines and I’m trying to diagnose what exactly is happening. Watching your video gave me excellent information about this topic. Hats of to you mate! Great work! Odd thing about my EGR, when I go up the mountains (cold and high altitude) the next time I turn the engine on, the Check Engine Light disappears, then when I go back down to the plains, it turns on again.
@@michaelacepcion8941
Hey Michael,
What type of scan tool are you using? Does it have 'Live Data' available? Did you check for vacuum leaks, like shown in the 'Homemade Smoke Machine' video?
Since it changes with altitude when you go up into the mountains, have you checked the Air Flow Meter? Here's an example of what an Air Flow Meter should do.
Toyota Echo Hesitates Under Acceleration th-cam.com/video/PMg50o_fhXQ/w-d-xo.html
Note what it should be at idle (in your case, if it is a 2.5Lt engine, then it should be roughly 2.5 gm/s) and then through the rev range. This sensor helps the ECU to make adjustments according to air density, which is changed by temperature, altitude, air speed and also the use of a turbo.
Do you have any fault codes I can help with?
@@MiracleMAX Hi Max, I'm only using a cheap OBD2 scanner reader. I had P2413 DTC code ever since, I had my EGR system cleaned from time to time, but the Check Engine Light never disappeared. The shops I went to and even at the dealer weren't able to diagnose what exactly is the fault. And during these times I have noticed the CEL light going off whenever I was up in the mountains. From my researches I found that the ECU takes information from the MAF sensor, and as such I cleaned it but sadly no effect on the CEL for P2413, your video on the MAF provided me a more indepth check, I found that the flow rate at idle (my engine is 3.2L) is about ~24g/sec which is over-reporting if it's supposed to be only 3.2g/s. Although recently I had some problem on acceleration having hesitations, and also loss power when I was going up a steep hill, it threw a code P1272, this I was able to resolve by servicing my SCV, I'm wondering that it may be that I haven't had the relearn special function done after my SCV servicing that it may be causing the high flow rate at idle, I have to get that checked before I decide to have the MAF sensor replaced. I already have a new EGR valve ready but haven't replaced it yet as I do the testings, I still have doubts. I'll try to make the smoke machine and do a leak test, but it doesn't seem like I have leaks as the engine is quite clean without the visible soots that would be coming from leaks.
@@michaelacepcion8941
Hey Michael,
Does your scan tool do 'Live Data'? The P2413 code is most likely a faulty EGR. Firstly you have to make sure that the ECU is actually commanding the EGR operation. This will be a duty cycle signal. Do you have a multimeter with a duty cycle function? If not you may be able to see a pulsed signal with an LED test light. Check out the video above for wiring connections.
You state that you have had the 'EGR system cleaned from time to time'. Was this Ultrasonically cleaned off the vehicle or just an intake spray being used? How many Kms has the vehicle done?
As you can imagine, 24g/sec is HUGELY over-reporting & will create all sort of problems. Sometimes you just can't clean a MAF - replacement is the only solution.
Yes, there are relearn procedures that must be carried out in the special function section of a bi-directional scan tool. Yours will not be up to the task if is only a reader. If you have sorted the Suction Control Valve, this will not change the MAF sensor reading as it is a Mass Air Flow sensor and only an ECU input. Therefore if it is over-reporting air intake, the ECU will add more fuel since it thinks that more air is going in than what is actually being drawn in by the motor.
Another great video Max! Keep up the good work 👍🏼
Cheers Bro!
Do dpf regen when sqirting in the cleaner you won't have to sit in the car with your foot on the gas regen can be stopped whenever..
Sorry, not sure if I understand you correctly. Are you suggesting that you do a forced regen while spraying intake cleaner into the intake system?
A forced regen should only be done as a last resort, not on a regular basis. This can be damaging to the DPF. Remember, it is just a filter. Adding extra fuel during this process (intake cleaner) will raise temperatures even more, creating a greater opportunity for the DPF to increase in temperature and result in possible melting of the substructure
G'day Max, thankyou for an absolutely brilliant and informative video. I've got an MN just like that one and it's misfiring like all buggery. My $20 Bluetooth obd scanner and simple app, intuitively called 'Car Scanner'
(lol) is detecting misfire injector #1 and indicating Injector #1 circuit malfunction, it hasn't given me any egr related codes but i've been told (by a 'blue singlet warrior') that this could be caused by excessive buildup from the egr. Anyway, I'm just starting the diagnostic process now, and your video has provided a very valuable insight into whats going on, so again, thanks for that mate. Cheers!
** btw, you're obviously a TAFE teacher (wouldn't be Miller, would it?) so i'm not going to use the language that I'd like to use, but just like to say 's*#t go @DanielMartin in the comments, used your video for his work, you were decent enough to reply to him, and i see he never replied back. Bad form Daniel).
Hey Paul,
I'm glad that this video helped. For some reason I get a lot of Tritons to work on, so have a look thru my videos if you need any other help with yours. Carbon build up is one of the main killers for these engines. Just keep in mind that the injector is both electrical as well as a mechanically operating solenoid, with moving parts. Let me know how you go with your diagnosis and if I can offer any help, I am happy to share what I know.
To be a good teacher, you have to be teachable, willing to learn.
Look forward to hearing your progress.
Cheers
MiracleMAX
nice vid mate !!! starting my automotive journey this july 😁 wish u were my prof.... cheers from melby
Does that mean you are becoming an apprentice? Where are you located? Best of luck & hopefully you can become an excellent technician!
I have the same problem, how about a video taking the egr out and cleaning it? That would be really helpful as a DIY. Will definetely subscribe if I see it. I've been getting terrible fuel consumption, 18 mpg at best. Everything else is fine, I know this must be coming from a bad o dirty egr. Please let me know if there is a video on how to take it apart. Thanks
Hey francisco salazar,
Did you check out this video at 15:22? I pull off the EGR to clean it. As you can see the EGR has shaft wear and later gets replaced. You can use all sorts of cleaners, but you never will truly clean it.
Homemade Smoke Machine To The Rescue MiracleMAX th-cam.com/video/Qx2nT-GTejc/w-d-xo.html
In the case of an EGR - 'If in doubt, chuck it out.' The only true way to clean carbon from an EGR or inlet system is by Ultra Sonically cleaning it off the vehicle. Sorry, that's just the way it is.
@@MiracleMAX hi, yup. Great vid I really learnt a lot from it. But muy question is on the process of getting it out. Taking the screws apart and pulling it out the engine. I am looking forward on taking it out and doing it myself
@@franciscosalazar8753
Hey francisco salazar,
I don't have a video specifically on EGR replacement, but if you follow along with this video, it might be enough to walk you through the process.
Homemade Smoke Machine To The Rescue MiracleMAX th-cam.com/video/Qx2nT-GTejc/w-d-xo.html
6:31 Shows the location of the EGR valve - at the rear of the vehicle on the inlet side.
6:44 Shows the EGR valve together with the housing that it is bolted to.
7:16 Shows the EGR valve off the inlet manifold. See there are 4 bolts that hold it onto the manifold. 14mm bolts if I remember correctly.....I could be wrong! :)
At the other end is a pipe that I have removed off the EGR cooler. It is easier to remove them together and then disassemble them on the bench. Don't forget, if you replace the EGR and remove an EGR cooler pipe, make sure that you replace the gaskets as well.
7:53 Shows where the EGR cooler pipe is removed from. I think the bolts are 12mm. Once again, don't quote me on it!
12:12 Make sure you check for straightness of the EGR cooler transfer pipes while they are off. You only need to take off the rear one, but in my case, I was chasing a noise as well.
17:25 Shows the EGR valve being changed over onto the cooler pipe.
18:18 Is where the EGR pipes and valve are reinstalled onto the vehicle.
Simples! :)
I hope that helps you with your repair.
MiracleMAX
Superb video, thanks for your work and for sharing! ¡Gracias!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Can the egr valve cause transmission to a limp mode where the D light blinks
Hey Atrul Nisha,
I haven't personally seen that. What fault codes do you have? Have you tried clearing them? There may be other codes not related to the EGR causing the limp mode.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the reply unfortunately there's no fault codes but as soon as I drive my Mitsubishi l200 it doesn't change gears as I rev up it jolts then the D light starts blinking and the transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear.so if I turn off the ignition then restart the D light stops blinking and the truck drives normal but it repeats its cycle I have checked the pcm and replaced it with new still same so I changed the entire transmission with the same spec still the same so now I'm looking for the transmission control relay which I can't find even I took out the dashboard the relay and fuse in the fuse box are good
@@atrulnisha3962 Sounds like you've done a lot of work on your vehicle! What scan tool have you been using? When you say the 'D' light, do you mean the Check Engine Light? I would be surprised if there were no codes. I would expect at least a 'pending' code. Does your engine use a DPF? Did you check the OBDII side of your scan tool or just the manufacturers side? Did you do a full system scan or just a powertrain scan? What is the exact year, engine size & model of your vehicle?
@@atrulnisha3962 over ride, napalitan na po b ng atf
How did the egr motor worked that is a hard code, how did you cleared it,
Hey Ford Taurus,
In this case the fault was intermittent due to carbon and a worn EGR valve. It had completed a drive cycle and confirmed that there was a fault at the time of the cycle. Once the fault was cleared, the EGR started operating again. About a year later the EGR valve was replaced due to excessive wear.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX hey men, thanks for the info, does egr motor usually be worned out for about 30,000 KM run or about 3 years old
@@fordtaurus4920 Not usually, but they can get stuck due to carbon build up and depending on the code, it might be an electrical fault
@@MiracleMAX when i already cleaned it then re scan I have a dtc p2413 then I streamed the egr target like you did but it reads 0% maybe I'll replace the egr motor,
@@fordtaurus4920 The code must be cleared before the valve will be activated. Have you done all the electrical testing like I showed in the video?
very good
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks
You are welcome. I hope the video helped! :)
Sir please help me my Montero 2thousand rpm only what we do?
@@sucesojr.escanilla5866
So you are saying that it has a high idle? Is it petrol or diesel, what year is it & what is the engine size and code, please? Do you have a scan tool?
These do have issues with the idle speed control motor, but further testing should be done before replacing any parts.
@@MiracleMAX diesel engine sir 2011 model codes p0193 p2413 and low power like turbocharger not working sir
@@sucesojr.escanilla5866
P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input.
Does your scan tool have 'live data'? If so, what is the fuel pressure reading at idle and at higher revs?
P2413 Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Performance.
Can you see if the target and actual EGR readings are the same or close? Is the EGR operating? Just like in the video, I had to clear the codes before I could actuate the EGR.
Is the intake system clear of carbon? These are bad for carbon build-up.