I love how you're constantly pushing the envelope of RC aircraft, and now hydrofoil board systems! I also love how you use your 3D printing, composites, and CNC machining tools, materials, engineering design, and manufacturing skills to make it happen! As a fellow tinkerer, thank you for sharing your design, build, and test projects with us, which helps expand our world!
I know I’m repeating myself, but Daniel, please, please try cutting the fiberglass or carbon fabric at a 45-degree angle instead of along the fibers. This advice comes from someone who has worked in a composite sport boats factory for years. You’ll be amazed at how much easier it is to work with and how much stronger your parts will be. If you cut the fabric on a diagonal, like at 7:25 here, you wouldn’t need to trim it on the tip of your part, and the entire wing would be more resistant to twisting. The fabric will also adhere to the surface more smoothly. This technique has no drawbacks, only advantages. Other then that - Great Project! Thank you so much for inspiration!
Not quite. Yes the fabric would be easier to be placed over the wings, but the stiffness is reduced by that. That's because fibres are only stiff in the orientation of the fibre. For a strain not coaxial, it loses a major part of the stiffness. When designing a composite material, there are a lot of considerations. 0° orientated layers for stiffness in the main loading axis, 90° for stiffness in the other axis, 45° and -45° for adding stiffness to torsional loads. Sometimes it is better to design not for maximal stiffness, so the part has some flex. Also, the stack has an influence on the damage tolerance of the part. Calculations are possible and necessary if one wants to reach the best possible wing, but also not that trivial to do.
@@Rob1970s Sorry I'm not sure I understand you. I was referring to the fibre orientation on the part, not the fabric. But there are also different types of weaving patterns. Twill, Satin, Plain weave, unidirectional and lots more. Plain weave is the most common but for curved shape the hardest to drape. Twill might be a good option for him.
Sorry if I did not explain it clearly. It is not a trivial task to explain just with words. I'm referring to classic fabric with fibers arranged at a 90-degree angle to each other in a 50/50 ratio, as I believe this is the type of fabric @rctestflight primarily uses. I'm trying to convince him not to cut his fabric along or perpendicular to the edge. Instead, I suggest cutting a few strips of fabric at a 45-degree angle to the grain. Strips cut at a 45-degree angle are much more effective when it comes to shaping them around complex shapes and edges; they lay much more easily, especially on edges. Additionally, if we need stiffness in one direction, we can cut a strip twice as wide as needed and then stretch it. This will give us the required width, with the fibers positioned at approximately a 22-degree angle, which will further reinforce the piece. Of course, when it comes to high-performance parts, the calculations are much more complex, and in those cases, fabrics with fibers aligned in only one direction are primarily used. I was more focused on making components in a home garage setting. Sorry, @Rob1970s, but you're mistaken. As proof, I suggest a simple experiment. Take a multi-layer laminate made from fabric with fibers arranged at a 90-degree angle. Cut a circle from it and try bending it with your hands. You'll quickly notice that it bends much more easily along the fiber axis (where only half of the fibers are bending) and it's much harder to bend when you try to bend it at a 45-degree angle to the fibers (when all fibers are subjected to bending). So yes, it does matter how you cut and arrange the fabric in a composite part. Maybe one day I'll record a short video to explain it in detail.
Uh, hem, ALL materials you cut at a 45 as it is the shear angle for ALL materials. --> Watch there is some know it all who knows of some VERY odd material which does not have a shear angle of 45 degrees.......
After seeing ProjectAir’s solar plane blow up, I definitely wanted to see the RCtestflight’s proper version of a high aspect ratio solar wing. Was great to see a glimpse of it though.
@@fookingsog I have no idea what else he could have said 🤷♂️....also don't understand how he was getting semen in his socks. But there's a lot we don't understand about America so 🤷♂️
I've never CNCed anything, never fiberglassed anything, never used a hydrofoil, never fabbed with foam/carbon fiber, and I've ever heard of this channel. I also watched this whole video like it was giving me the next lottery numbers.
You are getting closer to what I see as a boat that doesn't float and a plane that doesn't fly, but together they sail very well. Glider foil for below and above. Ground effects on a water rail. The top wing might have to rotate on the bottom wing, like a sail rotates on a keel, but the ground effects would point the foil into the wind. It would be cool if it could launch from one swell to the other, Thanks for being interested in this.
@Raxdflipnote has warned us about the "MARIAH CAREY ENTITY" waking up this soon christmas just like the previous gaurd @Frosted_Derp . Be wary of going to antartica during this period as you may experience hallucinations and other phychological symptoms. Just dont go there please and may god bless us
@Raxdflipnote has warned us about the "MARIAH CAREY ENTITY" waking up this soon christmas just like the previous gaurd @Frosted_Derp . Be wary of going to antartica during this period as you may experience hallucinations and other phychological symptoms. Just dont go there please and may god bless us
The stiffness is both pressure in the manufacturing (which you did not do) but also the direction and what kind of resin you use. There's charts online that tell you what resins you need to use to obtain stiff laminations vs more flexible ones. Afaik, boat stuff is towards the more flexible part of the spectrum, because you need to have a flexible hull. You'd need the type of resin used in things like water storage tanks, for example. I've made a couple of custom ones back in the 90's with resin specific for the purpose and those were 3 layers deep only, no pressure (only the form), and chopped strand on the exterior (first layer laid) and it's extremely stiff, which i needed for the application, because it would've otherwise made a bulge because of the weight of the water.
Resin has some effect, but the main thing is the volume fraction of fibers and their orientation. With hand layup like this, you never get a good volume fraction of fibers, so you get a lot of thickness but little strength and stiffness compared to a propper vacuum bag setup or press. The 1708 is not helping either. The mat backing is great for building thickness, but the fibers are randomly oriented, so only a few are pointing in the right direction, and the weave is 45/45, so all the long fibers are going at a diagonal, almost negating their contribution. It is good to have some fibers at a diagonal for stability, but the majority of fibers should be oriented in the load direction!
@@2testtest2 crap, i spent all that time writing my comment, but this was already here, but ill also put this here balsa wood is probably the best material for making a cheap and strong sandwich plate.
@@2testtest2 Just was about to point this out as well. In a proper design, the epoxy has almost a negligible effect on the mechanical properties. Composite material design is hard and needs a lot of knowledge to reach the optimum for the desired application. The calculation itself can be done with CLT (Classical Laminate Theory). I'm certainly no expert in this, but If I would design such a foil I would probably end up with a stack that looks like something like this: [45/-45/0/0/45/-45/0/0] then followed by the foam and the same stack on the other side. The 45 degree fibre orientation helps with torsional loads which are fairly important in this twisted foil design and placing them on the outside helps to reduce the risk of delamination.
@Raxdflipnote has warned us about the "MARIAH CAREY ENTITY" waking up this soon christmas just like the previous gaurd @Frosted_Derp . Be wary of going to antartica during this period as you may experience hallucinations and other phychological symptoms. Just dont go there please and may god bless us
Bro my dad had issues with shoulder dislocations when he was younger. Ended up avoiding surgical intervention by listening to a friend who was a gym owner. He built up the muscle in,his shoulders and never had a problem since
I am impressed with the fact that you're even trying this. I can't imagine the things you will do in your lifetime with this initial knowledge you have now. Keep having fun.
This vid really resonates with me! I see so many similarities to my custom work and projects. I use the same chip brushes, the same pink foam, and the same Mitutuyo calipers. I don't have a CNC router in my shop and this makes me want to look into that. Within DIY TH-cam I see an overreliance on 3D printing and an under-awareness of the benefits and ease of composites. Thanks for putting it out there!
If you need stiffness, US Composites has S glass. Most fiberglass is E-Glass or electrical glass, so good enough for electricals and insulation. S-glass is structural, with S-2 being a trademark name. It has quite a bit more stiffness and strength while still being fiberglass, so not a big price jump like carbon. Shoutout to Soller Composites, he got basically the cheapest carbon you can find, in the categories they stock.
S-Glass is 10% stiffer and stronger than E-glass. It is 300% more expensive. Carbon is 5x more expensive and more than 2x stronger, so it has nearly replaced S-2 in most composite products.
The whole "milling for days" thing for a simple wing profile is nuts. We cut profiles out of foam with hot wires. The process takes minutes and laves enough of the block intact to use it as a negative form for the reflex lamination.
This build is awesome! I wonder if adding self-balancing tech, similar to what Segways use, could help maintain the hydrofoil’s angle relative to the board, stabilizing it for a smoother ride. Maybe actuators could automatically adjust the angle for optimal lift and control. A joystick on the board could also give riders the option to manually adjust the height by shifting the foil’s angle in real-time. For an advanced twist, the actuators could even oscillate the foil angle slightly, generating a form of propulsion by mimicking a fish’s tail movement. This could add some extra thrust without relying on traditional motors! And with independent control of each end of the foil, the rider could achieve left-right 'yaw' turns for better maneuverability. This project has so much potential!
If you need long reach mills for a cnc router, consider Helicle's "solid carbide high feed" mills. They are specialized mills which translate forces axially instead of radially. This allows you to reach further without fear of high leverage forces. There is a learning curve because they work differently than end mills
Awesome project! Was pretty amazing to see such a cool concept is possible to be fabricated entirely at your home! I was thinking if you revisit solar plane v5 you could CNC negatives of each of the wing parts out of more foam to have a better support for the vacuum seal. Not sure if there's a release agent that would apply to the foam nicely, so might be a lot of sanding the negative foam off the fiberglass with that route.
Totaly crazy! Soooo much work to build this wing. Hope it will works to pump. Looks awesome. I also built some Waveboards, but this is absolut crazy. Hope you become real success with this concept. Go on! 🎉
Well spotted! Congrats. I wanted to tell you that Kazuhiko Kakuto in Japan built the Flappter from Laputa Island in the Sky and the Mehve or Möwe jetwing from Nausicaa as a working RC model. And then I wanted to end my reply saying that technically you could build a Mehve but thankfully nobody , not even James 'let's stick a rocket engine in it and make it go faster' from ProjectAir would be bonkers enough to try and fly a full size Mehve with an actual jet engine... But I googled "flying machine from nausicaa valley of the wind" and ... Wow.
Cool video. It reminds me of first attempts at making RC gliders. Once you have had fun with that, you need to move to vacuum bagging. You also must add some carbon layers though expensive I know. That will make things stiff and stick together. You are essentially building modern RC airplane wings, so no reason to reinvent though the hand lay up method can make good looking parts. The buoyancy thing may be an issue once you do it right as it will be lighter. Still fun to see people take a shot at composite layup.
Watching the build was the best fun! I love watching you be a super smart engineer and builder. You are really intelligent and interesting! Keep up the amazing job!😊
Tip: Hobbyist plane makers cut the wings from foam with a hit wire. That makes the negatives at the same time, which means you automatically make the parts to constrain the wing with the right twist and profile when it is vacuum-bagged
Can you make a "storm drone", an semi autonomous maybe parachute or flying wing with deployable parachute, so that you can fly into storm cells, and then use the massive updrafts to go right to the top of the storms, filming and recording altitude/temperature etc. Would be an awesome series of videos. Super cells can reach up to 70,000 feet...! Most of the lift will be provided by the storm itself so you can have something fairly lightweight battery wise and still have really good runtime.
Hi. You can significantly increase the processing speed with the "Parallel" strategy. The direction of movement should be along the diagonal of the axes of the machine. Then the maximum speeds of the axes will be vector-folded and the milling cutter will be able to move noticeably faster. Good luck with the machining :)
around the 15 min mark when you were looking for the balance point while riding on your stomach: take a cue from surfers. In surfing, during takeoff on a wave you adjust the CG simply by straightening out your arms and doing kind of an upward dog to pull back, or pushing your head and chest to the board to move it forward.
To keep parts flat or to desired shape, build an 'oven' -simple cage with light weight foil faced insulation that you can set over your part. Add a heater with thermostat, leave the part under vacuum in the 'oven' around 180f for 2 hours. It shouldn't pre-release or have any post cure warp Or, build a pressure vessel with heating like formula 1 teams do. Kind of expensive though Source; I built boats for 35 years and after, kevlar parts for race boats
Ah... The solar planes... The reason i started watching this channel. I loved those videos. But Ive also been fascinated by these hydrofoil videos and the autonomous boats. All stuff I'd love to be able to do, but dont have the money or patience to achieve.
some glider wings, they make them with a twist in them, so when they twist in the air they are going back to normal shape where its supposed to be, so have to take into account the twisting force when making them.
Excellent build and excellent video. I suspect that the masts of these craft replace a large amount of the pitching up moment that is usually solely born by the horizontal stabilizer on traditional aircraft. They can do so with their drag, rather than the traditional negative lift that the horz. stab. uses. If you have a dual masted board like this, I think you would need even less reflex than if it only had one mast. I see evidence of this when I see how small the horz. stab. is on other wing boards, especially when compared to the wing. Its much smaller than you would expect if it were going to be an airplane. This wing is so nice though. If it still wants to pitch up after more practice, you can always add adjustable, unpowered elevons that can be adjusted on land. Awesome vid!!!
would you be able to retain the twist in your wings by glassing the upper(or lower) surface WHILE the wing is still in the foam-board? if you are required to flip the foam-board, you would be inserting a glassing step between cutting sides (upper and lower) on the router. this would effectively give you full support during your initial glassing pass and when the wing is ready for the final glassing steps, there would be a rigid fiberglass layer maintaining the wing-tip twist during the next glassing/vacuum-bagging step. another thought about your table size restrictions. you could cut the wing in multiple sections out of the same foam-board by using the same alignment pins you're using for keeping your upper wing surface above the lower wing surface. you'd have to have the space to hang foamboard off the side of your CNC table, but you could use multiple cutting programs (L-tip, L-mid, fuselage, R-mid, R-tip). you'd just program a bit of overlap between wing sections and index the material between programs.
Its called washout on tips. Wire cut foam cores with built in washout is your building board. Carbon leading edge say 10mm deep and trailing edge 20mm deep Shear Web Spar 15mm with end grain spruce. Cover with aluminium sheet similar thickness to Coke can using slow cure epoxy weighted down on your core mould - Super strong wing 🛫
Fibreglass is durable but soft, carbon layers laid in cross fibre fashion is the one to use for stiffness (-> check how hockey sticks are made). Add aramid (Kevlar) in the impact area as carbon is brittle
Nice build! It looks like you would benefit some from vacuum bagging more of the laminating steps, pre-coat the foam etc. Not only save weight but makes for quicker and stronger/stiffer build, since you mess around less with epoxy saturating the fibers. No need for peel layer that covers "everything", use only very narrow peel strips and somewhat dense pattern of outlet holes to allow transport of air and excess matrix. For the areas in between you use somewhat thicker plastic sheets that allows see through and that leaves smooth shiny surface. Also, do not sand in between layers, instead time the gel state, do a quick clean up with razor sharp blades (tons of), and just continue with next layering step. 😅
15:48 Ouch. Can see that shoulder dislocate. Before my surgery I could dislocate my shoulders with little pain... but after I got surgery it's now easier to dislocate my shoulder and excruciatingly painful. I've had friends make jokes, because I could dislocate my shoulder and then put it back in myself without any real pain... but since I got surgery to stop my shoulder from dislocating, It's out of control painful, even when It's not dislocated.
nice job. If you ever feel like making that Solar plane again I bet one of the shrink coatings used on RC planes would work great. They do come in Clear. Monokote and ultra cote are the only brands that come to mind.
McNair Marine was first to build fiberglass boats using vacuum bags back in 1967. The original application of the vacuum bag technique of fiberglass molding was the Radar Dome on the A6 Intruder. My father ran Grummans Flight Test Department and help develop the process.
From my experience building longboard skateboards from flexy carver or cruiser to full on downhill boards, I would think that small amount of straight strand carbon fibre does more than you think. It has completely different properties from glass. Glass is flexible and bouncy and carbon is much stiffer end springier. It does break at a lower deflection compared to glass and it shatters while glass tears. But on flexible sports equipment you're riding you can defilitely feel the difference in flex and damping between different materials or combination of materials.
Would be cool to see some kind of underwater electic DPV that can dual as a hydrofoil. Dunno how one would build that though. You would def use the surfboard design and then you would need a foldable hydrofoil wing.
Very humanizing to hear you describe losing motivation on a project. I love the huge hydrofoil wing! Will you make it powered? Perhaps the slowest efoil? The most efficient efoil?
10:32 --- PETG ----- IS NATURAL SEPARATOR Resin wont stick to it at all (except mechanicall connection trough holes etc (like "hooks") ) but in this case it act more like a "filling" material (like foam in wings but harder) pro tip ----- holes in it (infill) and epoxy paste (with thickeners like silica) can make the bond permanent (mechanically)
However, I'd still LOOOVE to see the solar plane v. 5! Everything would come together there: flying wing, beautiful sleek design, autopilot stuff, efficiency! Maybe when you are done with the water stuff... (which is still fun BTW too)
Shear Web for stiffness. Without that the foam is carrying the shear load between the two reinforced skins. And foam is flexible so the structure is too.
My thoughts exactly. With the foam in the middle connecting the two laminates it is like taking a metal or whatever I beam and replacing the middle vertical part with a flexible foam. That is such an obvious mistake. And thanks for the term 'shear web' :) Didn't know that. I've designed and built lots of industrial machines the past 40 years or so but never anything with wings. Now I kind of want to (do wings)...
As for overdoing stuff, here's one reason why it's better: Last time I went hammock camping, instead of overdoing the knots for my webbing(which is what the hammock attaches to) I got lazy... Which resulted in me being VERY rudely awaken in the middle of the night by way of smashing my back into the ground.. So I'd say it's waaay better to overdo things than the other way round! And if anyone wonders, yup it sucks about as much as you would imagine slamming your back into the ground from half a metre would! But thankfully I did not sustain anything more than a couple bruises😅👍
Please tell me I am not the only one who immediately thought of Studio Ghibli's: Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, the moment the design and thumbnail was shown, It was so darn cool.
that would be the most efficient efoil board. it looks like it has more of a sweet spot with speed where it just stays at the perfect level no need for pumping at all at low low speed
Get some West systems 105 resin with 206/205 hardener. I prefer the 206 just longer cure times. 403 is a fiber pulp that you mix the epoxy in to thicken it. The 403 thickened mix will work its way into the foam a lot better than resin while also bonding nicely into the cloth. It’s a much stronger bond.
I always wonder, when watching videos from all you DIY Maker-type TH-camrs, where you get the money to buy all your materials? Like, is MakerTubing the main source of income, or do most of you have lucrative careers that leave you with time and energy to take on all this super cool stuff?
Using styroboards seems way better in many regards than 3D prints like in the motor powered hydrofoil. But the built process needs to get optmized. And you really have to be sure about your design beforehand.
I love how you're constantly pushing the envelope of RC aircraft, and now hydrofoil board systems! I also love how you use your 3D printing, composites, and CNC machining tools, materials, engineering design, and manufacturing skills to make it happen!
As a fellow tinkerer, thank you for sharing your design, build, and test projects with us, which helps expand our world!
I know I’m repeating myself, but Daniel, please, please try cutting the fiberglass or carbon fabric at a 45-degree angle instead of along the fibers. This advice comes from someone who has worked in a composite sport boats factory for years. You’ll be amazed at how much easier it is to work with and how much stronger your parts will be. If you cut the fabric on a diagonal, like at 7:25 here, you wouldn’t need to trim it on the tip of your part, and the entire wing would be more resistant to twisting. The fabric will also adhere to the surface more smoothly. This technique has no drawbacks, only advantages.
Other then that - Great Project! Thank you so much for inspiration!
Not quite. Yes the fabric would be easier to be placed over the wings, but the stiffness is reduced by that. That's because fibres are only stiff in the orientation of the fibre. For a strain not coaxial, it loses a major part of the stiffness.
When designing a composite material, there are a lot of considerations. 0° orientated layers for stiffness in the main loading axis, 90° for stiffness in the other axis, 45° and -45° for adding stiffness to torsional loads. Sometimes it is better to design not for maximal stiffness, so the part has some flex. Also, the stack has an influence on the damage tolerance of the part. Calculations are possible and necessary if one wants to reach the best possible wing, but also not that trivial to do.
Fiberglass and carbon fiber are both cross fatched weave . .. it doesn't matter what direction you cut at all , it's cross fatched !!! X
@@Rob1970s Sorry I'm not sure I understand you. I was referring to the fibre orientation on the part, not the fabric.
But there are also different types of weaving patterns. Twill, Satin, Plain weave, unidirectional and lots more. Plain weave is the most common but for curved shape the hardest to drape. Twill might be a good option for him.
Sorry if I did not explain it clearly. It is not a trivial task to explain just with words.
I'm referring to classic fabric with fibers arranged at a 90-degree angle to each other in a 50/50 ratio, as I believe this is the type of fabric @rctestflight primarily uses.
I'm trying to convince him not to cut his fabric along or perpendicular to the edge. Instead, I suggest cutting a few strips of fabric at a 45-degree angle to the grain. Strips cut at a 45-degree angle are much more effective when it comes to shaping them around complex shapes and edges; they lay much more easily, especially on edges. Additionally, if we need stiffness in one direction, we can cut a strip twice as wide as needed and then stretch it. This will give us the required width, with the fibers positioned at approximately a 22-degree angle, which will further reinforce the piece.
Of course, when it comes to high-performance parts, the calculations are much more complex, and in those cases, fabrics with fibers aligned in only one direction are primarily used. I was more focused on making components in a home garage setting.
Sorry, @Rob1970s, but you're mistaken. As proof, I suggest a simple experiment. Take a multi-layer laminate made from fabric with fibers arranged at a 90-degree angle. Cut a circle from it and try bending it with your hands. You'll quickly notice that it bends much more easily along the fiber axis (where only half of the fibers are bending) and it's much harder to bend when you try to bend it at a 45-degree angle to the fibers (when all fibers are subjected to bending). So yes, it does matter how you cut and arrange the fabric in a composite part.
Maybe one day I'll record a short video to explain it in detail.
Uh, hem, ALL materials you cut at a 45 as it is the shear angle for ALL materials. --> Watch there is some know it all who knows of some VERY odd material which does not have a shear angle of 45 degrees.......
"The Solar Plane V5."
Me: "Hey, that looks really familiar-"
*Project Air crashing in the background*
"-just convergent evolution, I guess."
Need to be honest there should be about 40 people working on solar planes right now by statistics alone
Goated comment
After seeing ProjectAir’s solar plane blow up, I definitely wanted to see the RCtestflight’s proper version of a high aspect ratio solar wing. Was great to see a glimpse of it though.
How much epoxy did you use?
- Yes
This is secret campaign by big epoxy, I can feel it!
@@hanswoast7 set up by big milk, THEY CONTROL EVERYTHING
10 litres for sure.
@@PankajDoharey No way! More like 2.64172 gallons!
me screaming to use polyester resin
glad to see someone using his knowledge the way he want
"No annoying semen between your toes"? I would hope not!
DAGNABBIT!!! I HEARD THAT TOO!!! 😂
🤨📸
Had to run it through my mental translator to figure out what he really said.. lol
@@fookingsog I have no idea what else he could have said 🤷♂️....also don't understand how he was getting semen in his socks. But there's a lot we don't understand about America so 🤷♂️
@@nonsequitor Seam in between
I've never CNCed anything, never fiberglassed anything, never used a hydrofoil, never fabbed with foam/carbon fiber, and I've ever heard of this channel. I also watched this whole video like it was giving me the next lottery numbers.
These hydrofoil adventures are so fun to watch
For your fiberglass work: wet the foam with epoxy first, then lay the weave on top, way easier to get the fabric soaked through.
You are getting closer to what I see as a boat that doesn't float and a plane that doesn't fly, but together they sail very well. Glider foil for below and above. Ground effects on a water rail. The top wing might have to rotate on the bottom wing, like a sail rotates on a keel, but the ground effects would point the foil into the wind. It would be cool if it could launch from one swell to the other, Thanks for being interested in this.
5:38 Bombas - no annoying semen between your toes
I was going to post the same thing. :D
Does not ship ... useless then.
I had to check that's what i heard. Thanks for clarifying 😅
@Raxdflipnote has warned us about the "MARIAH CAREY ENTITY" waking up this soon christmas just like the previous gaurd @Frosted_Derp . Be wary of going to antartica during this period as you may experience hallucinations and other phychological symptoms. Just dont go there please and may god bless us
Came here to say this...
"In the spirit of ignoring the sunk cost fallacy..." my brother! Haha
@Raxdflipnote has warned us about the "MARIAH CAREY ENTITY" waking up this soon christmas just like the previous gaurd @Frosted_Derp . Be wary of going to antartica during this period as you may experience hallucinations and other phychological symptoms. Just dont go there please and may god bless us
Would love to see the Solarplane V5
Same...I for one am tired of the water stuff :(
@@robe4314 It's cool, but like it's cool, planes were actually interesting for me at least
In return for the previous temu ad 😂
@@Alex-xs6ht THIS
He won't. Move on or do it yourself.
The stiffness is both pressure in the manufacturing (which you did not do) but also the direction and what kind of resin you use. There's charts online that tell you what resins you need to use to obtain stiff laminations vs more flexible ones. Afaik, boat stuff is towards the more flexible part of the spectrum, because you need to have a flexible hull. You'd need the type of resin used in things like water storage tanks, for example. I've made a couple of custom ones back in the 90's with resin specific for the purpose and those were 3 layers deep only, no pressure (only the form), and chopped strand on the exterior (first layer laid) and it's extremely stiff, which i needed for the application, because it would've otherwise made a bulge because of the weight of the water.
Resin has some effect, but the main thing is the volume fraction of fibers and their orientation. With hand layup like this, you never get a good volume fraction of fibers, so you get a lot of thickness but little strength and stiffness compared to a propper vacuum bag setup or press. The 1708 is not helping either. The mat backing is great for building thickness, but the fibers are randomly oriented, so only a few are pointing in the right direction, and the weave is 45/45, so all the long fibers are going at a diagonal, almost negating their contribution. It is good to have some fibers at a diagonal for stability, but the majority of fibers should be oriented in the load direction!
@@2testtest2 crap, i spent all that time writing my comment, but this was already here, but ill also put this here balsa wood is probably the best material for making a cheap and strong sandwich plate.
@@2testtest2 Just was about to point this out as well. In a proper design, the epoxy has almost a negligible effect on the mechanical properties. Composite material design is hard and needs a lot of knowledge to reach the optimum for the desired application. The calculation itself can be done with CLT (Classical Laminate Theory). I'm certainly no expert in this, but If I would design such a foil I would probably end up with a stack that looks like something like this: [45/-45/0/0/45/-45/0/0] then followed by the foam and the same stack on the other side.
The 45 degree fibre orientation helps with torsional loads which are fairly important in this twisted foil design and placing them on the outside helps to reduce the risk of delamination.
@Raxdflipnote has warned us about the "MARIAH CAREY ENTITY" waking up this soon christmas just like the previous gaurd @Frosted_Derp . Be wary of going to antartica during this period as you may experience hallucinations and other phychological symptoms. Just dont go there please and may god bless us
Crazy amount of glass/resin
You make complex ideas very easy to understand while being entertaining. This is a rare skill in the business world that will serve you well.
When laying down composites, consider the bias of the biaxial cloth, and layout 90º offset each layer for extra stiffness. (2nd gen boat builder)
45 degrees*
@@couldhaveseenit You're right thank you
Bro my dad had issues with shoulder dislocations when he was younger. Ended up avoiding surgical intervention by listening to a friend who was a gym owner. He built up the muscle in,his shoulders and never had a problem since
This sponsor is miles better good content man
I am impressed with the fact that you're even trying this. I can't imagine the things you will do in your lifetime with this initial knowledge you have now. Keep having fun.
Always interesting. Never a let down. How anyone can watch this without being just a little happier is beyond me?
Bro, did you mean to write that in Valley Girl voice? 😂😂😂 ... either way it's given me a laugh 🙏👊
Amazing, ce gars-là a réussi à réinventer l'eau tiède, total respect... 😇
This vid really resonates with me! I see so many similarities to my custom work and projects. I use the same chip brushes, the same pink foam, and the same Mitutuyo calipers. I don't have a CNC router in my shop and this makes me want to look into that. Within DIY TH-cam I see an overreliance on 3D printing and an under-awareness of the benefits and ease of composites. Thanks for putting it out there!
If you need stiffness, US Composites has S glass. Most fiberglass is E-Glass or electrical glass, so good enough for electricals and insulation. S-glass is structural, with S-2 being a trademark name. It has quite a bit more stiffness and strength while still being fiberglass, so not a big price jump like carbon.
Shoutout to Soller Composites, he got basically the cheapest carbon you can find, in the categories they stock.
S-Glass is 10% stiffer and stronger than E-glass. It is 300% more expensive. Carbon is 5x more expensive and more than 2x stronger, so it has nearly replaced S-2 in most composite products.
Looking pretty epic man! It's always a gut check to me just HOW much more torque younger off of water than air, even at low speeds.
The whole "milling for days" thing for a simple wing profile is nuts. We cut profiles out of foam with hot wires. The process takes minutes and laves enough of the block intact to use it as a negative form for the reflex lamination.
This build is awesome! I wonder if adding self-balancing tech, similar to what Segways use, could help maintain the hydrofoil’s angle relative to the board, stabilizing it for a smoother ride. Maybe actuators could automatically adjust the angle for optimal lift and control. A joystick on the board could also give riders the option to manually adjust the height by shifting the foil’s angle in real-time.
For an advanced twist, the actuators could even oscillate the foil angle slightly, generating a form of propulsion by mimicking a fish’s tail movement. This could add some extra thrust without relying on traditional motors! And with independent control of each end of the foil, the rider could achieve left-right 'yaw' turns for better maneuverability. This project has so much potential!
Bro ur upload frequency is insane, loving the vids 👌
Put small motors on it for a high efficiency wing board that you can ride
Wow, I'm impressed with the low amount of dust on the CNC machine! Your dust collection system is very effective :)
If you need long reach mills for a cnc router, consider Helicle's "solid carbide high feed" mills. They are specialized mills which translate forces axially instead of radially. This allows you to reach further without fear of high leverage forces. There is a learning curve because they work differently than end mills
Watched this through and impressed with your hard work and positive attitude to your projects -
Look forward to the tow test for your foil 👍
I love your energy ....
As a boat builder myself I can only compliment you. Keep on trying ... Then you will make it !!
Good luck
Awesome project! Was pretty amazing to see such a cool concept is possible to be fabricated entirely at your home! I was thinking if you revisit solar plane v5 you could CNC negatives of each of the wing parts out of more foam to have a better support for the vacuum seal. Not sure if there's a release agent that would apply to the foam nicely, so might be a lot of sanding the negative foam off the fiberglass with that route.
Totaly crazy! Soooo much work to build this wing. Hope it will works to pump. Looks awesome. I also built some Waveboards, but this is absolut crazy. Hope you become real success with this concept. Go on! 🎉
“Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind” vibe. 👍
❤😅😊
Well spotted! Congrats. I wanted to tell you that Kazuhiko Kakuto in Japan built the Flappter from Laputa Island in the Sky and the Mehve or Möwe jetwing from Nausicaa as a working RC model. And then I wanted to end my reply saying that technically you could build a Mehve but thankfully nobody , not even James 'let's stick a rocket engine in it and make it go faster' from ProjectAir would be bonkers enough to try and fly a full size Mehve with an actual jet engine... But I googled "flying machine from nausicaa valley of the wind" and ... Wow.
That’s what I was thinking
I was looking for this comment
Cool video. It reminds me of first attempts at making RC gliders. Once you have had fun with that, you need to move to vacuum bagging. You also must add some carbon layers though expensive I know. That will make things stiff and stick together. You are essentially building modern RC airplane wings, so no reason to reinvent though the hand lay up method can make good looking parts. The buoyancy thing may be an issue once you do it right as it will be lighter. Still fun to see people take a shot at composite layup.
Amazing concept, looking forward to the rabbit hole this takes me down! Curious as the final weight?
Whahhooo Daniel this is absolutely killer ! Queen Elizabeth of pumpboard !!! I so can't wait for the next installment ! ❤😉🙃😎 NZ
Watching the build was the best fun! I love watching you be a super smart engineer and builder. You are really intelligent and interesting! Keep up the amazing job!😊
Tip: Hobbyist plane makers cut the wings from foam with a hit wire. That makes the negatives at the same time, which means you automatically make the parts to constrain the wing with the right twist and profile when it is vacuum-bagged
With a wing that size you could mount 2 electrical ducted propellers, 1 on each wing port/starboard, maybe add yaw control with differential thrust.
Coolest thing I've seen on Lake Union in a hot min. Cool build!
I built my first airchair myself
back in the day when they came out
Amazing work ,
Keep that imagination going
Can you make a "storm drone", an semi autonomous maybe parachute or flying wing with deployable parachute, so that you can fly into storm cells, and then use the massive updrafts to go right to the top of the storms, filming and recording altitude/temperature etc. Would be an awesome series of videos. Super cells can reach up to 70,000 feet...! Most of the lift will be provided by the storm itself so you can have something fairly lightweight battery wise and still have really good runtime.
Your building skills are improving to mad scientist level. Great job.
Hi. You can significantly increase the processing speed with the "Parallel" strategy. The direction of movement should be along the diagonal of the axes of the machine. Then the maximum speeds of the axes will be vector-folded and the milling cutter will be able to move noticeably faster. Good luck with the machining :)
15:56 homie just casually whipped out the Intermediate Value Theorem in everyday life. Nice.
around the 15 min mark when you were looking for the balance point while riding on your stomach: take a cue from surfers. In surfing, during takeoff on a wave you adjust the CG simply by straightening out your arms and doing kind of an upward dog to pull back, or pushing your head and chest to the board to move it forward.
So many parallels between aerospace and marine engineering. Great video, thank you.
Noticed your The Front Climbing club hat! Been working there on the bouldering wall expansion, you’ll love it next time you visit!
To keep parts flat or to desired shape, build an 'oven' -simple cage with light weight foil faced insulation that you can set over your part. Add a heater with thermostat, leave the part under vacuum in the 'oven' around 180f for 2 hours. It shouldn't pre-release or have any post cure warp
Or, build a pressure vessel with heating like formula 1 teams do. Kind of expensive though
Source; I built boats for 35 years and after, kevlar parts for race boats
Ah... The solar planes... The reason i started watching this channel. I loved those videos. But Ive also been fascinated by these hydrofoil videos and the autonomous boats. All stuff I'd love to be able to do, but dont have the money or patience to achieve.
some glider wings, they make them with a twist in them, so when they twist in the air they are going back to normal shape where its supposed to be, so have to take into account the twisting force when making them.
Excellent build and excellent video. I suspect that the masts of these craft replace a large amount of the pitching up moment that is usually solely born by the horizontal stabilizer on traditional aircraft. They can do so with their drag, rather than the traditional negative lift that the horz. stab. uses. If you have a dual masted board like this, I think you would need even less reflex than if it only had one mast. I see evidence of this when I see how small the horz. stab. is on other wing boards, especially when compared to the wing. Its much smaller than you would expect if it were going to be an airplane. This wing is so nice though. If it still wants to pitch up after more practice, you can always add adjustable, unpowered elevons that can be adjusted on land.
Awesome vid!!!
I love what you do, I love your skills too. I use Onshape too, but i find it some times difficult to designe hull shapes for sailboats.
would you be able to retain the twist in your wings by glassing the upper(or lower) surface WHILE the wing is still in the foam-board? if you are required to flip the foam-board, you would be inserting a glassing step between cutting sides (upper and lower) on the router. this would effectively give you full support during your initial glassing pass and when the wing is ready for the final glassing steps, there would be a rigid fiberglass layer maintaining the wing-tip twist during the next glassing/vacuum-bagging step.
another thought about your table size restrictions. you could cut the wing in multiple sections out of the same foam-board by using the same alignment pins you're using for keeping your upper wing surface above the lower wing surface. you'd have to have the space to hang foamboard off the side of your CNC table, but you could use multiple cutting programs (L-tip, L-mid, fuselage, R-mid, R-tip). you'd just program a bit of overlap between wing sections and index the material between programs.
You landed a good sponsor this time. Those are some of my favorite socks.
Its called washout on tips. Wire cut foam cores with built in washout is your building board.
Carbon leading edge say 10mm deep and trailing edge 20mm deep Shear Web Spar 15mm with end grain spruce.
Cover with aluminium sheet similar thickness to Coke can using slow cure epoxy weighted down on your core mould - Super strong wing 🛫
As a pro skim boarder that’s really cool. Good job building a great board which is progression in the surf world. ❤
"In the spirit of Ignoring the Sunk-Cost Fallacy..." got a chuckle out of me.
It also finally got my Subscription. For some reason. Why didn't I subscribe on an earlier video? I do not know.
Fibreglass is durable but soft, carbon layers laid in cross fibre fashion is the one to use for stiffness (-> check how hockey sticks are made). Add aramid (Kevlar) in the impact area as carbon is brittle
Nice build! It looks like you would benefit some from vacuum bagging more of the laminating steps, pre-coat the foam etc. Not only save weight but makes for quicker and stronger/stiffer build, since you mess around less with epoxy saturating the fibers. No need for peel layer that covers "everything", use only very narrow peel strips and somewhat dense pattern of outlet holes to allow transport of air and excess matrix. For the areas in between you use somewhat thicker plastic sheets that allows see through and that leaves smooth shiny surface. Also, do not sand in between layers, instead time the gel state, do a quick clean up with razor sharp blades (tons of), and just continue with next layering step. 😅
15:48 Ouch. Can see that shoulder dislocate. Before my surgery I could dislocate my shoulders with little pain... but after I got surgery it's now easier to dislocate my shoulder and excruciatingly painful. I've had friends make jokes, because I could dislocate my shoulder and then put it back in myself without any real pain... but since I got surgery to stop my shoulder from dislocating, It's out of control painful, even when It's not dislocated.
Have you considered the I Beam effect to your composite layups? Cheaper, much lighter, and less time-consuming.
Love what you do man!
8:30 "This cloth is so thick it just drinks epoxy. And this is where the baby oil actually comes in handy..." - rcdiddyflight
nice job. If you ever feel like making that Solar plane again I bet one of the shrink coatings used on RC planes would work great. They do come in Clear. Monokote and ultra cote are the only brands that come to mind.
McNair Marine was first to build fiberglass boats using vacuum bags back in 1967.
The original application of the vacuum bag technique of fiberglass molding was the Radar Dome on the A6 Intruder. My father ran Grummans Flight Test Department and help develop the process.
From my experience building longboard skateboards from flexy carver or cruiser to full on downhill boards, I would think that small amount of straight strand carbon fibre does more than you think. It has completely different properties from glass. Glass is flexible and bouncy and carbon is much stiffer end springier. It does break at a lower deflection compared to glass and it shatters while glass tears. But on flexible sports equipment you're riding you can defilitely feel the difference in flex and damping between different materials or combination of materials.
Yep, my thought too. You add some carbon and the part gets 4x stiffer. Its just expensive.
It almost looks like the air glider in Naüsicaa and the Valley of the Wind. Super cool in the water though!
Would be cool to see some kind of underwater electic DPV that can dual as a hydrofoil. Dunno how one would build that though. You would def use the surfboard design and then you would need a foldable hydrofoil wing.
This giving "just winging it" a whole new dimension!
I like how often you are winging it!
The little kicks were hilarious. Cool project dude, keep it up!
I love this build I cant wait for the second video
Very humanizing to hear you describe losing motivation on a project.
I love the huge hydrofoil wing! Will you make it powered? Perhaps the slowest efoil? The most efficient efoil?
10:32 --- PETG ----- IS NATURAL SEPARATOR
Resin wont stick to it at all (except mechanicall connection trough holes etc (like "hooks") )
but in this case it act more like a "filling" material (like foam in wings but harder)
pro tip ----- holes in it (infill) and epoxy paste (with thickeners like silica) can make the bond permanent (mechanically)
Tow boat time! Love your waypoint videos ✌️
The beginning part was the most fascinating part! Have wondered why delta wings airplanes does not exists. Now I know!
However, I'd still LOOOVE to see the solar plane v. 5! Everything would come together there: flying wing, beautiful sleek design, autopilot stuff, efficiency! Maybe when you are done with the water stuff... (which is still fun BTW too)
Love your total commitment to a completely TLAR project 🎉
This guy is a full DIY wizard. Truly inspiring.
Shear Web for stiffness. Without that the foam is carrying the shear load between the two reinforced skins. And foam is flexible so the structure is too.
My thoughts exactly. With the foam in the middle connecting the two laminates it is like taking a metal or whatever I beam and replacing the middle vertical part with a flexible foam. That is such an obvious mistake. And thanks for the term 'shear web' :) Didn't know that. I've designed and built lots of industrial machines the past 40 years or so but never anything with wings. Now I kind of want to (do wings)...
If it is a high density foam it would be fine, the main problem is the bond strength
Exciting to think that you might improve the sport with a new radical design
🌈🏆❤️👍🏻👀
As for overdoing stuff, here's one reason why it's better:
Last time I went hammock camping, instead of overdoing the knots for my webbing(which is what the hammock attaches to) I got lazy...
Which resulted in me being VERY rudely awaken in the middle of the night by way of smashing my back into the ground..
So I'd say it's waaay better to overdo things than the other way round!
And if anyone wonders, yup it sucks about as much as you would imagine slamming your back into the ground from half a metre would!
But thankfully I did not sustain anything more than a couple bruises😅👍
Please tell me I am not the only one who immediately thought of Studio Ghibli's: Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, the moment the design and thumbnail was shown, It was so darn cool.
that would be the most efficient efoil board. it looks like it has more of a sweet spot with speed where it just stays at the perfect level no need for pumping at all at low low speed
Real nice job! congratulations
Get some West systems 105 resin with 206/205 hardener. I prefer the 206 just longer cure times.
403 is a fiber pulp that you mix the epoxy in to thicken it. The 403 thickened mix will work its way into the foam a lot better than resin while also bonding nicely into the cloth. It’s a much stronger bond.
I always wonder, when watching videos from all you DIY Maker-type TH-camrs, where you get the money to buy all your materials? Like, is MakerTubing the main source of income, or do most of you have lucrative careers that leave you with time and energy to take on all this super cool stuff?
Your right, shoulda started a a specific wing and made this one into what you started.
Would have loved to see the original plan completed.
I've never seen a man love fiberglass so passionately
If you want stiffness and light weight you could make an ibeam from the fiberglass.
I used a sliding glass patio door to lay up sheets of fiberglass. Any thinkness! It work nice!
awesome project!!
this thing is so big, you could make the world’s first hydrofoil house boat
not trying to stand on it is such a cliffhanger
I love solar planes❤
I hope you make more videos on it
Awesome stuff!
towie the towboat?? aw man that shit is sick!!!
You build some wild stuff, been a fan for long time, keep up the great entertainment.
Using styroboards seems way better in many regards than 3D prints like in the motor powered hydrofoil. But the built process needs to get optmized. And you really have to be sure about your design beforehand.