@@49erfan916 I’m not saying this guy is wrong, absolutely not, but in low base iso 800 on fx6/3, I never over expose. I shoot for British tv. Footage always clean - expose for face. Older cameras required overexposing in slog. Modern Sony models not so much. But again, if it works it works so all methods fine
I think your run and gun method is the key as I have no time to start whipping out grey cards and lens caps at weddings. I will have to give zebras a shot. I've filmed a few weddings with mm1.7 method and realized pretty fast that this method is not always dependable.
I literally subscribed cause you've been the only one who actually referenced the Multi Meter. Goes to show you actually take the whole general concept and dial down instead of just copy paste whatever settings they talk about.
Thanks for this video. Probably the most sensible video on this issue I’ve come across. Will definitely test the different methods in the same lighting and see how it turns out.
Totally fair, I think it would've been good go include some more BTS and example footage of each method of exposing but I tried to do it all in camera as I shot it
You mention you can do different types of metering (spot etc)...can you let me know where to find that option in the FX 6? I have looked everywhere and can't find any info online nor in the manual...thanks
@castmaven I've never used the FX6 but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have the same metering settings as the mirrorless cameras because that style of metering is more of a photography thing. Most people use the waveform for exposure that's in the Video Signal Monitoring settings
For run and gun like Weddings. Would it be better to set your Lower Limit to say 65+ so when you start to see clipping in the highlights of the skin tone you expose for that?
@@LoveUniqueStudios that could be one way to do it. In run and gun settings, I generally use the zebras at 94 and then go as bright as possible without clipping, unless it's a bright light that has to clip
Having an external mknitor with a monitoring LUT that shows how you want the final image to look is super important, since you want tk expose for how you'll grade in post.
Thank you for this tips! Do you know if this will still work on the Sony FS5 Cam in „4K“ mode? I think it‘s only 4:2:0 in 4K so would this be a problem? Thank‘s ✌🏽
First of all, the best name of course 🙌 Second, great video! Super clear. I'm however still not sure what would be a good option for me. I have a Sony a6400 and read different things about picture profiles. Use Slog(2?), use HLG, use Cine or don't use Slog because 8-bit? It's all a bit confusing. Since I'm going to Japan next week, I'd like to film as well and would love to have some really nice looking shots color-wise. But I'm just not sure what would be the best way to go for me. Should I want to have to fiddle around with these settings on my trip or should I just use default profiles? Or will this look absolutely terrible when color grading/using luts in post? Thanks!
Of course! I haven't personally used any of the 8 bit Sony cameras, or S Log2 so I can't say for sure. But my understanding is it's not great unless you're shooting 10 bit. That's why I shot in 8 bit S-Cinetone until I got DaVinci Resolve Studio because the free version doesn't support 10 bit and I heard S-Log in 8 bit isn't great. I feel like whatever you do, if you're still only shooting 8 bit, you're not going to be able to do a ton of grading without wrecking the image so in my opinion, you should just try to get it to look how you want in camera and only do minimal grading. You'd probably still get more dynamic range out of S-Log2 than no picture profile so if that makes a difference, you could decide to go that way. You could also try to test as much as possible beforehand to see what works if you have time. Hope that helps!
@@itmeremy Yea I figured slog2 would perhaps still be a bit better than shooting with no profile at all. But like you said, I might just try out a few things to make sure it looks good in camera and do some minor adjustments in post. I've only just gotten my camera and haven't had that much time to test things out. Hopefully I can do some testing the comings days, otherwise we'll just improvise along the way :) Thanks for the info! I didn't know Davinci Resolve was also on iPad, would be nice to be able to edit and grade along the way👌
Just use Cine4, it's easy to edit. I have messed around a lot on my 8 bit A7R III with HLG and Slog2/3 and while you can definitely make good results with them, it is just stressful to always think about exposure for post processing. The usual +1,7 or 2,0 EV isn't really always working so it's a hit and miss with exposing Log right on these bodies. Shoot Cine4, if possible at +0,3 EV and 100mbps, you can do a lot with it in post and most importantly you can focus on your subject or scene while recording and not on the technical aspects of exposing. This is a lot more fun. If you're even smarter, adjust colour depth etc in a custom PP to get as close as possible to the result you want. Editing these files will take only about half a minute 😂
So - if you set your zebra to 52 st.+Range +2 then the zebra will highlight your face? How do you know if you are clipping. I always thought the zebra is there to tell you when you are clipping …?
That is the issue with that method, in that case I think it'd be a good idea to also keep the histogram up to be able to see if you're clipping. I still mainly use zebras for clipping
I see - so you WANT zebras for the highlights on the skin in this scenario - and use the histogram for clipping … The phantom luts creator recommended this method and i was always puzzled why i want the image to be clipping - lol. Thanks a lot for clearing this up.
You don’t want your image to be clipping. The phantom Luts guy dieant say that. His ideal is just to expose properly it for whatever you are trying to achieve artistically.
@@raketenrocko if you have a high contrast scene where the face is very dark, you have no choice but to clip highlights in order to properly expose the face
@peejayoliverio I exposed by the method that I was talking about at the time, except for the 1st one. It was around +0.7 to +0.1 most of the time though
"...if your subject does not have skin..." was unintentionally hilarious lol
I recommend overexposing +1.7 inside and +1 outside for run and gun beginners and using metering mode "entire screen".
how is it possible to change the metering mode on the FX 6? I can't for the life of me find the setting anywhere...
How much would you overexpose for run and gun for advanced shooters?
@@49erfan916 Use external monitor with lut/false color and expose properly
@@49erfan916 If you dont have external monitor use spot metering mode: +1.7 for bright objects, +1 for middle bright and 0 for dark object.
@@49erfan916 I’m not saying this guy is wrong, absolutely not, but in low base iso 800 on fx6/3, I never over expose. I shoot for British tv. Footage always clean - expose for face. Older cameras required overexposing in slog. Modern Sony models not so much. But again, if it works it works so all methods fine
I think your run and gun method is the key as I have no time to start whipping out grey cards and lens caps at weddings. I will have to give zebras a shot. I've filmed a few weddings with mm1.7 method and realized pretty fast that this method is not always dependable.
Totally fair. I get there can be issues with it but I think it can kind of save the day in a fast-paced shoot like a wedding
how do you do it now?
I literally subscribed cause you've been the only one who actually referenced the Multi Meter. Goes to show you actually take the whole general concept and dial down instead of just copy paste whatever settings they talk about.
3:20 i tripped for a sec when he said "when your subject does not have skin" 😅 thanks for the video btw learned a lot
I think that's a fair reaction to that statement. But glad you found the video helpful
so straightforward and easy to understand, you got a sub
@andrewcapon4235 glad it was helpful. Welcome
Thank you so much for this video! By far the most helpful I’ve seen on YT. Subscribed!
Glad to be of service, thanks for watching
Thanks for this video. Probably the most sensible video on this issue I’ve come across.
Will definitely test the different methods in the same lighting and see how it turns out.
good video, good advice. Wish there were more examples of what you're talking about, though
Totally fair, I think it would've been good go include some more BTS and example footage of each method of exposing but I tried to do it all in camera as I shot it
04:31 are you adjusting the ND filter?
Yes
Was wondering also lol thanks
the first video to easily explain what exposing to the right means… I’ve heard it like 30 times and now I finally know
@@Coach_Oyama glad I could help
Finally I have given up using s-clock 3 because I must be shoot on night time and it has too much noise so I switch to HLG2
You mention you can do different types of metering (spot etc)...can you let me know where to find that option in the FX 6? I have looked everywhere and can't find any info online nor in the manual...thanks
@castmaven I've never used the FX6 but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have the same metering settings as the mirrorless cameras because that style of metering is more of a photography thing. Most people use the waveform for exposure that's in the Video Signal Monitoring settings
@@itmeremy ah I see thanks!!!
For run and gun like Weddings. Would it be better to set your Lower Limit to say 65+ so when you start to see clipping in the highlights of the skin tone you expose for that?
@@LoveUniqueStudios that could be one way to do it. In run and gun settings, I generally use the zebras at 94 and then go as bright as possible without clipping, unless it's a bright light that has to clip
Thanks ! What mic Rode you use ?? (XLR on handle FX-3)
@@TheKoles the NTG1
Having an external mknitor with a monitoring LUT that shows how you want the final image to look is super important, since you want tk expose for how you'll grade in post.
@benjamin.kelley very true, I do that most of the time now too
Thank you for this tips!
Do you know if this will still work on the Sony FS5 Cam in „4K“ mode?
I think it‘s only 4:2:0 in 4K so would this be a problem?
Thank‘s ✌🏽
I'm not sure but I'm guessing the FS5 used SLOG2 which is different, so it may require some different things when it comes to exposing
Very informative. Thank you, Remy
First of all, the best name of course 🙌
Second, great video! Super clear. I'm however still not sure what would be a good option for me. I have a Sony a6400 and read different things about picture profiles. Use Slog(2?), use HLG, use Cine or don't use Slog because 8-bit? It's all a bit confusing.
Since I'm going to Japan next week, I'd like to film as well and would love to have some really nice looking shots color-wise. But I'm just not sure what would be the best way to go for me. Should I want to have to fiddle around with these settings on my trip or should I just use default profiles? Or will this look absolutely terrible when color grading/using luts in post?
Thanks!
Of course!
I haven't personally used any of the 8 bit Sony cameras, or S Log2 so I can't say for sure. But my understanding is it's not great unless you're shooting 10 bit. That's why I shot in 8 bit S-Cinetone until I got DaVinci Resolve Studio because the free version doesn't support 10 bit and I heard S-Log in 8 bit isn't great.
I feel like whatever you do, if you're still only shooting 8 bit, you're not going to be able to do a ton of grading without wrecking the image so in my opinion, you should just try to get it to look how you want in camera and only do minimal grading. You'd probably still get more dynamic range out of S-Log2 than no picture profile so if that makes a difference, you could decide to go that way.
You could also try to test as much as possible beforehand to see what works if you have time.
Hope that helps!
@@itmeremy Yea I figured slog2 would perhaps still be a bit better than shooting with no profile at all. But like you said, I might just try out a few things to make sure it looks good in camera and do some minor adjustments in post. I've only just gotten my camera and haven't had that much time to test things out. Hopefully I can do some testing the comings days, otherwise we'll just improvise along the way :) Thanks for the info!
I didn't know Davinci Resolve was also on iPad, would be nice to be able to edit and grade along the way👌
For the 8bit footage if my ZV1 I preferred using HLG2
Just use Cine4, it's easy to edit.
I have messed around a lot on my 8 bit A7R III with HLG and Slog2/3 and while you can definitely make good results with them, it is just stressful to always think about exposure for post processing. The usual +1,7 or 2,0 EV isn't really always working so it's a hit and miss with exposing Log right on these bodies. Shoot Cine4, if possible at +0,3 EV and 100mbps, you can do a lot with it in post and most importantly you can focus on your subject or scene while recording and not on the technical aspects of exposing. This is a lot more fun. If you're even smarter, adjust colour depth etc in a custom PP to get as close as possible to the result you want. Editing these files will take only about half a minute 😂
Thank you 😊
So - if you set your zebra to 52 st.+Range +2 then the zebra will highlight your face? How do you know if you are clipping. I always thought the zebra is there to tell you when you are clipping …?
That is the issue with that method, in that case I think it'd be a good idea to also keep the histogram up to be able to see if you're clipping. I still mainly use zebras for clipping
I see - so you WANT zebras for the highlights on the skin in this scenario - and use the histogram for clipping … The phantom luts creator recommended this method and i was always puzzled why i want the image to be clipping - lol. Thanks a lot for clearing this up.
@@raketenrocko yeah that's pretty much it. Glad I could help
You don’t want your image to be clipping. The phantom
Luts guy dieant say that. His ideal is just to expose properly it for whatever you are trying to achieve artistically.
@@raketenrocko if you have a high contrast scene where the face is very dark, you have no choice but to clip highlights in order to properly expose the face
Thank you ginger Daniel Radcliff!
is this video exposing +1 stop? why is it look noise?
@peejayoliverio I exposed by the method that I was talking about at the time, except for the 1st one. It was around +0.7 to +0.1 most of the time though
Thank you!
Yeah 1.7 over works for me 99%