ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ค. 2024
- I needed to glue some PETG 3D prints together, but I didn't find decisive information on the Internet, so I conducted my own experiment. I tried to glue PETG with Superglue (cyanoacrylate), Weld-On #16, Hot Melt Glue, and JB Weld. I then repeated the same experiment with PLA. For more electronics videos, 3d printing resources, etc., see www.smbaker.com/
- วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
For those strapped for time: 12:23
thanx a lot
Legend
You rock mate, thanks!
Weld-on 16 is a PLA solvent. Try Weld-on 3 for PETG.
Weld-on 16 is an acrylic solvent/cement.
Insane video! In the beginning I was wondering why you were even trying hot glue because I've always known it to have no strength. I figured the hot glue and super glue would be the two worst. Thanks for the video! Very interesting.
I had good results on PETG with Dichlormethane, it's basically cold welding. As for PLA I'm still looking for a equal strong bond. So far CA seems to be the strongest I tried.
For PLA, I would use a solvent-based chemical like acetone or mek, which dissolves the plastic and welds it into a single piece, just like it does for ABS or any styrene-based plastic. In fact, I've successfully fused PLA with ABS this way. For PETG, I would use the hot glue based on your findings. I hate superglue with a passion. It nauseates me and those little tubes become an unusable mess after a single use.
I found superglue with height viscosity, thicker and it seems to work alright.
I use JB weld for plastics on my PETG and it holds everything better than anything else other than a heavy coating of CA glue. CA glue works great on PLA
Why do you think it didnt work in the video? Is it because he applied glue, separated the parts, and then pressed them together again?
@@ekek9950with the JB Weld original, you have to sand the joins and all let it get full strength. It sets in 4 to 6 hours and fully cures in 15-24 hours.
I tested it on a scrap part and it's been clamped for the last 12 hours. I'm letting it go for at least 30 hours just to be sure
I print mostly in PETG and a little bit of PLA. I found the most sure thing is CA glue. With PLA it is pretty much an instant bond and with PETG it needs to be clamped for a little longer…….and you need to let it sit for a longer time……but it will work well if you have patience……It wins in the economics and availability categories too. Great vid…..
Very useful, thanks. Anyone who's curious, I found that cyanoacrilate didn't work well when bonding PETG to cardboard, but Gorilla Glue worked well.
Love methodical real-world testing like this. Would like to see testing of different brands/types of CA glue, maybe even including the various types of CA primers meant for plastics.
John Jones you should have a look at the channel Project Farm if you don't know it yet
Superglue (with an accelerator) is normally my go-to, but i've also had good success using a 3d printing pen with the same filament to sort of "weld" seams together if they have a gap to fill or a natural v-shaped channel where the parts connect. Think like the same process of welding steel by making a circular motion and overlapping the layers. 5 minute epoxy also works well.
Perhaps the clamps squeeze the glue out and then relax slightly on the part. Something with rubber footings or bungees on the clamp may give different results?
glad i found this im currently printing a 1/10th scale 79 chevy k5 blazer body out of PETG and its in multiple pieces and for what i was planning to use to join them together was originally JB Weld super glue gel or chemical weld or plastic welding but i definitely wont be using JB Weld i definitely though about the hot glue but figured jb would be stronger than that but i do have some crappy results with jb weld and plastic. thank you for the tests and info. will probably try doing a combo of plastic welding and acetone chemical welding.
When you say "I did not prepare the samples in any way, I did not sand them etc" is that contrary to any of the adhesive manufacturer's instructions? If you are not following instructions then I can't see how this could be considered a fair test.
It may be fair in that the instructions for all were ignored, but it is also not very helpful. Testing the products the way they are supposed to be used, the way any halfway intelligent user would by reading the instructions, would be more informative.
The reason cyano, aka superglue seems stronger than the plastic is because anything more than 1 drop/square inch will weaken plastic near the joint. It says so on the tube.
Thanks for sharing this info. I'm sure it will help a lot of people. Cheers!
I was waiting for you to glue your fingers to the plastic. 🤣
6:24 i bought some of that JB Weld yesterday to join some PETG parts and did you let it cure the full 24 hours? It sets in 4 to 6 hours
Very useful. Thanks
so. over the years i have seen a ton of hobby videos from stuff with Adam Savage to all the small random youtubers.
WHAT IS JB WELD? you can't get it in Europe...
is it just a simple epoxy glue or is there something special about jb weld?
JB Weld has steel particles mixed in with 2 part epoxy so it's very strong. But I agree with this youtube video, in my testing JB weld is sometimes not great for plastics but it's amazing for bonding most anything else.
I have a print with lots of pieces that I need to glue. There are also going to be some gaps that I was hoping to fix in this stage. Do you think i can use the glue sticks to fill gaps and then sand em smooth or would you reccomened another product like calk or something? This print is petg and I'm going to paint it after I build it.
When i do these sorts of things, i print them in PLA and fill the gaps with plastic putty. I currently have Revell plastic putty, it behaves well. I had Mr. White Putty (Japan) in the past but got very annoyed by how much it shrinks. Tamiya is another frequently recommended brand, and i honestly don't remember if i tried it ever at all. These are all made to be sanded and painted over. If you're working with very large pieces, you might reach into automotive supply instead of model supply, something like Bondo, but i have no first hand experience.
I have not tried whether this sort of putty sticks to PETG. A lot of adhesives really don't work with it.
Hot melt glue is not my favourite except for temporary adhesion. It detaches and crumbles away in presence of alcohol vapour. I don't think you'll be able to sand it.
so, clamping glued parts is essential to get the most out of it, that's not just to hold the pieces in place.
It's essential to clamp them fast and under a certain amount of force, it doesn't matter how long parts are clamped together in general. Depending on the glue the 1st few seconds count what force is used to clamp them together, when this is done wrong one can keep it clamped for 3 days it will not get any better.
cheers!
regarding the Super Glue, it should be used with care, cause depending on the plastic the glue is dissolving it what can end up weakening the part. Also Super glue is not water resistant.
Honestly clamping seems to be entirely optional for epoxy in my experience. Iv'e just "poured" (rather smeared) epoxy onto cables laying ontop of a PCB, no clamping at all and it hardens into a blob that just will not give, its ultradurable seemingly.
That's weird, i have had REALLY good results gluing both pla and petg with hot melt glue. The only time that the bond wasn't stronger than the part was when i tried using a cheap "safe" glue gun that didn't get hot enough to bond the glue with the pla.
I've had good results with Testors cement for wood and metal. The Testors model cement for plastic doesnt work. All my tests have been on PLA.
That particular Weld-On probably doesn't work on PET, other varieties may work better.
For PLA (haven't actually got around to printing any PETG yet) I use the cheapest generic liquid CA glue from the hardware store, I've yet to have a bond fail on me.
Weld-on 16 works very well for PETG. It is one of the few that does. I don't know what went wrong here, it is always very reliable. However adhesives should be applied properly. Not just slathered on like chocolate sauce on an ice cream sundae. CA especially needs contact with the air to cure, or an accelerator it should only be applied in a thin layer. I am surprised the CA worked as well as it did. As for the JB-Weld, I can't imagine why on Earth anyone would use original JB-Weld on plastic instead of using JB-Weld's Plastic Weld or Plastic Bonder. They make several product specifically for use with plastics.
Thanks
I have a part I need to print and due to its shape I am going to have to cut it apart and weld the two pieces together which I really don't want to do. I have never ever had luck with Super glue on even PLA and not sure why (possibly Dollar Tree Super Glue is past its prime so is junk EVEN THOUGH it is the real name brand stuff). I have tried it several times over the years and no go.
So for glueing a helemt PETG to PETG glue gun seemed best anyone agree?
A really good glue for PLA is 3DGloop www.3dgloop.com/shop/glue-gloop I know some of these meathods will be different depending on the surface area of the glued parts. i.e. edges versus flat areas.
weld on 16 is like 3dgloop but cheaper
Glueing all night. 🤔
Not a very scientific method but it is a decent real world test. I think you may have sold me on super glue.
Is there a dog near you, panting?
3d printer dude