a cool trick that I learned with soldering ring terminals on wire like that is to put the ring into a vice with the barrel facing up, then use some wire cutters to clip a bunch of pieces of solder into the opening, then heat the solder up inside the barrel and while it's molten hot push your wire into the solder. It will harden immediately so you need to be quick but it comes out way cleaner.
I don't have a vice, I know that's crazy, I would use it so much, but don't have anywhere to put one. When I worked at a stereo shop back in the day (think it was a tuesday) I always used the vice, but it was usually for big lugs like 0 guage. Man that Mapp gas does the trick fast. When I did it motorhome I made a bunch of those and used my little butane torch, it was a clusterF. The butane seemed to make soot and it took so long the flux or rosin (brain's not working right now) was gone before it flowed. Anyways, that's a good tip, I'm sure that works great!
About soldering … where the solder ends inside the cable is a sensitive point to vibrations and over time it is a potential breaking point. To avoid breaking always zip tie soldered cables to avoid being affected from vehicle vibrations.
looking at your ground that goes to the starter, it's on the wrong bolt, it goes on the top bolt on the engine side. you will eventually strip out that bottom bolt because it is threaded into the aluminum trans bellhousing... the top bolt has a nut, so switch that around.
Oh sh!t, I might have stripped it already. So that's how suzuki grounded the whole vehicle? Through the starter? Then I assume they jump to the body from the engine? In tomorrow's video I replace the battery terminals and land that wiper motor ground and add a body ground. My frieken screen died on my phone yesterday and I was screwing with it till 9pm. Couldn't film anymore and got a late start on editing. I also break open an automotive relay and dumb down how switches and relays work. I think it'll help alot of people. Seems like alot of people are intimidated by relays so they don't use em. Hey thanks for the great info again!!!
Minor issues … I would have attached the negative cable under the battery connector, not on top of it. I think that would be less stress on the cable. And I would apply dielectric grease on all metal to metal connections, just for quality & longevity.
I think the very next day I ended up replacing the battery terminals and adding a circuit breaker, can't remember how I landed them but I think it was a different style terminal. It came with those red and green spongy rings that prevent corrosion. I've always had good luck with them. I'm sure you've seen this too but it always blows me away how many people think dielectric grease is conductive when it's actually an insulator.
Thank you very much. If you liked this video I think you'll really like some of the others. Tomorrow's video will teach how switches and relays work. I break open a relay with a hammer to show exactly what's going on and how it works. I try to show tips or products that people might not know about. Thanks so much for subscribing! Appreciate you!!!
For the readers of comments … I am told that if you get a mushroom/mold buildup at a battery connector there is an imbalance between positive and negative. Find the imbalance, fix it, and the mushroom junk will not appear again.
Yes sir, it gets even cleaner tomorrow. Painted the battery hold down and replaced the terminals, added a circuit breaker and got rid of that battery cut off thingy. Also do a short 101 on switches and relays.
@29:29 that's your fusible link for your ignition and part of the "clicky start" you were experiencing when you cleaned your ignition switch.... cut that out of there and put an inline 30 amp automotive fuse. If you don't fuse it, it can potentially melt or catch on fire.
Today (tomorrow's video) I added a circuit breaker and landed the wiper motor ground and added a body ground, replaced the battery terminals. Yeah I couldn't tell if it was a fusible link or just a watertight connection. It didn't look factory because they wouldn't switch to a smaller guage wire right before the battery like that. It's weird how they have all those big plastic wire connectors all along the firewall, that's kinda what it looked like. Looking at the schematic in the Haynes or Chilton (can't remember) manual it came with it shows an 80 amp fuse right off the battery. I thought that was ridiculous so I stole a 40 amp resettable off my motorhome and put that right next to the battery, ditched the battery cut off deal cuz I can open it easily with the circuit breaker now. I'm assuming that wire (it's the only other +12vdc wire coming off the battery except the starter solenoid wire) must feed the fuse box under the dash and the biggest fuse in there was 20 amps. Anyways, thank you for letting me know cuz I wasn't sure what that was.
@@CTMadModz I'm just shocked that the inrush current isn't over 40 amps, I guess it is a tiny starter but still. I'm guessing it is over 40 amps but it prob takes a second or 2 for the circuit breaker to trip and the inrush current is probably only a few hundred milliseconds.
I'm not familiar with that one. Do you have to pass emissions where you live? These Samurai's will definitely get you into places $100k+ vehicles won't, mainly because of how tiny they are. How embarrassing would that be for the guy in the TRX or Raptor? Lol.
@@gschimbeck Dang, that's pricey for a carb. Did you notice a big difference? This Weber runs great and alot more power than stock, but it also has a header and MSD ignition, not sure how much all that helps, but it's alot faster than my friend's dad's stock Sammy. I just need to get it to pass emissions now. Thanks for the tip!
a cool trick that I learned with soldering ring terminals on wire like that is to put the ring into a vice with the barrel facing up, then use some wire cutters to clip a bunch of pieces of solder into the opening, then heat the solder up inside the barrel and while it's molten hot push your wire into the solder. It will harden immediately so you need to be quick but it comes out way cleaner.
I don't have a vice, I know that's crazy, I would use it so much, but don't have anywhere to put one. When I worked at a stereo shop back in the day (think it was a tuesday) I always used the vice, but it was usually for big lugs like 0 guage. Man that Mapp gas does the trick fast. When I did it motorhome I made a bunch of those and used my little butane torch, it was a clusterF. The butane seemed to make soot and it took so long the flux or rosin (brain's not working right now) was gone before it flowed. Anyways, that's a good tip, I'm sure that works great!
@@FixLife119 you could use vice grips 🤷🏻♂️😎
@@CTMadModz Good point, I have a few pairs I'll try it next time.
About soldering … where the solder ends inside the cable is a sensitive point to vibrations and over time it is a potential breaking point. To avoid breaking always zip tie soldered cables to avoid being affected from vehicle vibrations.
Never knew that, I just learned something. Thanks!
looking at your ground that goes to the starter, it's on the wrong bolt, it goes on the top bolt on the engine side. you will eventually strip out that bottom bolt because it is threaded into the aluminum trans bellhousing... the top bolt has a nut, so switch that around.
Oh sh!t, I might have stripped it already. So that's how suzuki grounded the whole vehicle? Through the starter? Then I assume they jump to the body from the engine? In tomorrow's video I replace the battery terminals and land that wiper motor ground and add a body ground. My frieken screen died on my phone yesterday and I was screwing with it till 9pm. Couldn't film anymore and got a late start on editing. I also break open an automotive relay and dumb down how switches and relays work. I think it'll help alot of people. Seems like alot of people are intimidated by relays so they don't use em. Hey thanks for the great info again!!!
All things that I would also have to undergo for my Suzuki
Ya know, if ya have to work on a vehicle, this is prob the funnest, simplest one out there. Plus the parts are very affordable!
Minor issues … I would have attached the negative cable under the battery connector, not on top of it. I think that would be less stress on the cable.
And I would apply dielectric grease on all metal to metal connections, just for quality & longevity.
I think the very next day I ended up replacing the battery terminals and adding a circuit breaker, can't remember how I landed them but I think it was a different style terminal. It came with those red and green spongy rings that prevent corrosion. I've always had good luck with them. I'm sure you've seen this too but it always blows me away how many people think dielectric grease is conductive when it's actually an insulator.
I immediately subscribed an hour ago
Thank you very much. If you liked this video I think you'll really like some of the others. Tomorrow's video will teach how switches and relays work. I break open a relay with a hammer to show exactly what's going on and how it works. I try to show tips or products that people might not know about. Thanks so much for subscribing! Appreciate you!!!
For the readers of comments … I am told that if you get a mushroom/mold buildup at a battery connector there is an imbalance between positive and negative. Find the imbalance, fix it, and the mushroom junk will not appear again.
that made it look cleaner
Yes sir, it gets even cleaner tomorrow. Painted the battery hold down and replaced the terminals, added a circuit breaker and got rid of that battery cut off thingy. Also do a short 101 on switches and relays.
@29:29 that's your fusible link for your ignition and part of the "clicky start" you were experiencing when you cleaned your ignition switch.... cut that out of there and put an inline 30 amp automotive fuse. If you don't fuse it, it can potentially melt or catch on fire.
Today (tomorrow's video) I added a circuit breaker and landed the wiper motor ground and added a body ground, replaced the battery terminals. Yeah I couldn't tell if it was a fusible link or just a watertight connection. It didn't look factory because they wouldn't switch to a smaller guage wire right before the battery like that. It's weird how they have all those big plastic wire connectors all along the firewall, that's kinda what it looked like. Looking at the schematic in the Haynes or Chilton (can't remember) manual it came with it shows an 80 amp fuse right off the battery. I thought that was ridiculous so I stole a 40 amp resettable off my motorhome and put that right next to the battery, ditched the battery cut off deal cuz I can open it easily with the circuit breaker now. I'm assuming that wire (it's the only other +12vdc wire coming off the battery except the starter solenoid wire) must feed the fuse box under the dash and the biggest fuse in there was 20 amps. Anyways, thank you for letting me know cuz I wasn't sure what that was.
@@FixLife119 mine has a 40
Amp circuit breaker on the main wire going to the starter and the ignition wire
@@CTMadModz Prob a good idea. Did you add that to the starter?
@@FixLife119 I just hooked the starter wire to the breaker and then went from the breaker to the battery
@@CTMadModz I'm just shocked that the inrush current isn't over 40 amps, I guess it is a tiny starter but still. I'm guessing it is over 40 amps but it prob takes a second or 2 for the circuit breaker to trip and the inrush current is probably only a few hundred milliseconds.
Genial, buen contenido. Gracias
I have a Sidewinder carb Kit im looking to offload for a reasonable price
I'm not familiar with that one. Do you have to pass emissions where you live? These Samurai's will definitely get you into places $100k+ vehicles won't, mainly because of how tiny they are. How embarrassing would that be for the guy in the TRX or Raptor? Lol.
@FixLife119 I live in sw Utah so i don't have to pass any emissions. the unit I have you can find on lowrange offroad for about 1300.00
@@gschimbeck Dang, that's pricey for a carb. Did you notice a big difference? This Weber runs great and alot more power than stock, but it also has a header and MSD ignition, not sure how much all that helps, but it's alot faster than my friend's dad's stock Sammy. I just need to get it to pass emissions now. Thanks for the tip!