The best battery terminals ever for your camper, RV, overlander and more!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.พ. 2022
- I have found what I think are the best battery terminals for your connecting powered accessories to a the battery in a truck, camper, overlanding and more! This is a review of Vgate battery terminal clamps that I purchased and installed on my truck. I power a winch, lights and an air compressor. I also need more connections for a DC to DC battery charger for my camper. In this video I take a close look at the terminals, install them, then give my final review and impressions.
The terminals I installed: amzn.to/3H3yTfP
With the small screw connections: amzn.to/3GWifyP
With no nuts on top: amzn.to/3gS0gz5
For screw on terminals: amzn.to/3oVJ1kG
Large diameter wire crimp and cutter tool: amzn.to/3Jz9exf
Lug and heat shrink assortment: amzn.to/33ufV4x
Follow me on Instagram: / mike.outthere
Our website: www.ventureoutthere.com/ - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Just so you know, I purchased these on line a few days ago. I did not discuss the purchase with anyone. Now youtube is recommending videos. Moral to the story everything you do online is Connected. I'm getting recommendations for videos of things I think about, Not things i've researched. This may sound crazy but I believe the internet is the beginning of the end, now the A.I Go ahead and laugh, while you can.
I don’t think you are crazy but if you are worried about this use a VPN. On your phone and computer and clean out your cookies on your computer and same on your phone If you want a feee one use duck duck go as a browser you are welcome
All you devices are listening…AI will analyze everything you do and figure out what your gonna do….
i have the xact same terminals and love them, better than having a buss bar where room is a concern. I just wish vgate made covers for them
Excellent info and loved the links. Your's turned out very nice. I need to clean mine up since the OEM connectors are going bad on mine. This gives me a lot of options. great job
Well done 👍🏽
My 2 cents:
In my opinion the solution is not to go 'direct' on to the battery at all.
On your ground side that large cable should be going to the block and or chassis at another point, so any ground side connections should be routed to that connection point and a distribution block used to allow multiple large connections. Same on the positive side, a distribution block with fuses should have all of your accessories going to it to provide individual appropriate fuses, all in a central location that then connects to your battery positive lead. Of course all of this must use amp appropriate cable and connection sizes.
I get that using direct to the battery is common, and thus parts are made to assists that. But that really stems from the desire to have the connections visually simple to keep things easier to understand. It's not the best way, merely the simplest. Better load handling and organization of your accessory connections and fusing can be had by adding a sort of 'sub' fuse and distribution box (something like an electrical sub panel in house wiring) to handle the power requirements.
Thank you for the excellent video and commentary. I’ll be purchasing this product based on your install.
I’m glad it was helpful. Mine are still going strong. Since this video I’ve used them to connect additional driving lights and DC to DC charging for my camper.
Thanks for a very complete video of a very tidy installation.
You’re welcome. I’m pretty happy with the result.
Good stuff
I wouldn't want that much stress on the battery post. A terminal block is better if you have the space.
I wish they made them in tinned copper and not aluminium.
Yes. That would be nice, but mine are holding up pretty well.
I’m thinking about buying a chunk of copper and cutting out a terminal with brass studs
If that’s 6061 fine. I guess.
Others like it are cast, brittle, and break. I’m skeptical especially for a 350A winch.
I’d use the studs but I wouldn’t use those ports and running a bolt onto them
I thought my truck barely clears 😆
Any worries about corrosion on the aluminum blocks? Usually the material is brass or copper
Generally aluminum is fairly corrosion resistant because it forms a protective oxide layer on the outer surface. But you have a point and I’ll have to keep an eye on it. Especially with the fumes from the battery. I don’t think it will be worse than most other materials and probably better than copper.
That oxide layer you mention is why they don’t make a good connection over time.
This is a very good question. I have never seen an automotive battery lug made from 6061 aluminum. When combined with copper in the presence of an electrolyte like water or worse salt water from icy roads, you will get classic galvanic corrosion. But worse because there is current flowing in the circuit you will get active current corrosion which is much more aggressive. Also, it is unwise to thread directly into aluminum (or even copper or brass as a matter of practice) for a battery lug. You would use a threaded insert, helicoid or a SS bolt and nut (which is very popular). It looks like the product uses a helicoil which will work.
For the product to work in the application it would be made out of ETP copper and bright tin plated. The battery post hardware would be the classic nut and bolt, with the added circuit attachment using a tin plated copper buss bar flange extension to accept tin plated copper compression lugs. The lugs could be attached using threaded inserts into the copper with a SS bolt (torqued with a little Loctite), or also use SS bolts, nuts, washers and locks. You would not use the round cable inserts set screw connections, even if with a ferrule. It is better to use compression tin plated lugs directly using a bolted connection. After all of the connection are made you could apply battery post sealant to help prevent corrosion. It would also be beneficial if the manufacturer made a large rubber boot to go over the complete assembly. If you drop a wrench across the terminals it will most likely weld in place and then the battery could explode.
Hey Mike! When I buy my new extended cab pickup I’ll probably have an extra battery installed under the hood…that way I can double up on those fancy smancy lugs you installed! Pretty cool item that I didn’t know were available! Btw, where in Colorado do you live? I lived in Westminster (I-25 North & Hwy 36) just north of Denver after I got out of the Air Force in 1972. Ten years later after going into trucking Denver didn’t even look the same as when I was living there. Sad! Imo all the transits from other states ruined it….and, to think back then the biggest slogan was “Don’t Californicate Colorado!”. Safe travels! ~ Jim~
We lived in Centennial, but are now on the road full time. I guess I am one of those transits that moved in and ruined it. 🙂 We moved to Colorado for work about about five years ago, although not from California. There are more and more people on this planet and population growth is a fact most everywhere. We have spent a lifetime in the outdoors and the parks and other places are all getting more crowded. I know my parents said the same thing back in the day when I was growing up. We work in Antarctica part of the year and have seen the major changes more people and climate change have brought. We all have to figure how to work through this together. Cheers!
@@ventureoutthere > Mike, thanks for your reply. No, I would never believe you’d ever intentionally try to ruin ANYthing, as, you appear to me to be one of integrity and good morals. I watched a video yesterday regarding the population growth of Texas vs California and was amazed at how much Houston has grown over the years since growing up here, and, in the whole state in general. I truly LOVED living in Colorado back in the 70s, but, after 38 years in trucking I’ve seen it become like most of the states in our country now…especially towns like Denver and where I lived in Westminster. I’ll go online occasionally to reminisce and I’m shocked, frankly, how it’s becoming and looking totally opposite of what I remember it was back then. Hardly recognizable to me anymore. Stay safe and I look forward to seeing more videos from you! ~Jim~
Thanks for sharing. Still holding up after 3+ months?
I checked the battery water a couple of days ago and all was well with the terminals. There was a little corrosion that brushed right off. No pitting of the aluminum. I might Spray a protective coating on it after I make the last tie ins this summer.
@@ventureoutthere I would get a tube of no ox from a big box store. It is made to connect AU to CU keeping down the oxidation. Obviously look in the electrical department
Have you upgraded the stock electrical?
I have only added the various accessories. This truck came with a heavier alternator as part of the upfitter switches and 120 volt inverter dash outlet options.
Do you have a cover or rubber insulator for the positive post?
No I don’t. It is exposed.
@@ventureoutthere I've used a small rubbermaid container and cut the bottom and sides out as needed for wire install. Red top snaps on and off plus install a wire tie as the hinge so you don't lose it.
That is a good idea. I’ll have to look around and see what containers might fit. Thanks for pointing that out.
A good question I have as well. I would have thought Vgate had one to fit on top of these.
The neck on the clamp is THIN, that's the WEAK LINK!
These are a knock off of gp terminals. Those are solid