Torque specs: Rear mount 3 nuts & 1 bolt under the suspension member: 38 ft. lbs. Rear mount long bolt that goes through insulator: 48 ft. lbs for North American built Vibe/Matrix/Corolla (if it's a Corolla built in Japan it's 64 ft. lbs.). Driver's side mount four bolts into frame: 38 ft. lbs. Driver's side mount nut that fastens the long bolt which goes through insulator: 59 ft. lbs.
Do ALL of the mounts. Makes a huge difference - Including transmission mount (4 total). And if you are going to do that, you might as well do the entire suspension system. It is probably time for all of it. Makes the car feel like new. The entire job is NOT easy. Hire it out for sure. Get a mobile mechanic to do it. Totally worth it.
I was a GM mechanic, motor and transaxle mounts can bee sneaky, The Cavaliers had a recall on motor mounts, when I replaced them they looked great and I would have never suspected them by a visual inspection, but the fresh mounts cured the vibration, I found it educational
I have a 2009 Vibe I bought brand new. 2.4 still drives like a bat outta heck....166K+ miles. BUT, I have this exact problem. I suspected it was the mounts, this confirms it. THANK YOU!
I have the same car and have the vibration on my car, The shop said it would be 800 hundred dollars to fix it. I will live with it. Love this car and have kept in good shape.
Got old one out somewhat easily, but new mount(rear) did not wanna go in. I had to use a die grinder to remove quite a bit of material from the 2 front side(motor side) feet so it would clear a few obstacles keeping it from seating fully onto the subframe. After the modification it dropped right in with no further problems. Good luck, Happy Wrenching.
This had to be a 1.8 Liter engine. I have 2.4L and the rear motor mount I could not get free but no way to wrestle it out of there. Believe me I tried.
Hmmm...... Is there any thing going on with the transmission? There could be some junk in the torque converter, that can make a vibration too. Not sure where else to look. Did all the motor mounts seem to line-up properly?
@@JeffsAuto The motor mounts seemed fine. It does make an odd noise when the torque converter unlocks like when in fourth gear and I start to go up a hill. The converter unlocks but still in fourth. When I step on it harder and it downshifts to third the noise goes away. Kind of a rattling screeching noise momentarily. Transmission shift and behaves good otherwise. Fluid looks good. Time of day, weather conditions and engine temp doesn't seem to matter. Do you think a transmission flush would be a good idea? Car as around 111k miles.
How many miles were on the car at the time of this repair? I have an '06 Vibe with 158,36x and have a similar issue. Buddy thinks its a timing chain, but 1. Yotas never throw one and 2. I really don't wanna have to drop the motor....
I purchased a set of motor mounts on Ebay. They all come from the same place. You get all four mounts. The rear one, the same one you did for this video is a real pain in the butt to do. So far I've changed the back, right side (right below the air cleaner), and the front. The rear one was completely broken rubber along with the front. The side one was ok but I changed it anyway. The left side is the only one I have left to do but it looks fine. I still have a knocking sound whenever I drive over rough patch of road so I still have something broken under the hood.
@@adamnasir2 have you looked at your ball joints ? knocking noise going over rough road or bumps would give you a knock on either side if a ball joint is worn out.
I have used both. I think the factory mounts are less rigid and fit better, but they both work. Sometimes the factory motor mounts are about the same price as the after market. Depends on the year and model.
Hi there i have an Audi a5 3.0 tdi Quattro. I have an excessive vibration in the cabin of the car. I took it to one garage and they told me all i need to do is change the engine mounts, i also took it to another garage and they said not only do i have to change the engine mounts but i have to change the dual mass fly wheel as well. When i turn the ac on, the car revs goes from 610 to 910 and the vibrations stops completely until the ac is turned off again. Do you think this could be a problem with the dual mass fly wheel. Many thanks !!!!!! Please get back to me asap before i waste a lot of money !! P.S the engine sounds completely the same when i engage and dis engage the clutch.
My mechanic has changed all including the plugs but still it vibrates when am on traffic and I apply break. kindly advise me what I should do next . thank you this video
If all else fails, take it to a transmission shop for evaluation, because in the worst case scenario, the excessive vibration may be caused by the torque converter falling apart internally.
I wonder if this is my problem. I have an 06 with 40k on it. It was totaled though. Front end hits. I did replace some front suspension stuff that was damaged in the accident. I have noticed it shakes when I'm idleing. It gets worse when in gear at a light or something. I thought it was an evap leaks or a dirty maf sensor but now I'm wondering about this. It has no dummy lights or codes. Can you see the mounts well enough to tell if they are bad without removing them?
I think the mounts are the most common problem. If you cannot visually see the mount damage, then sometimes it can help to diagnose by prying on the rubber while it is running with a long pry bar, to add more pressure and see if the vibration reduces. But, if it is not the mounts, maybe you should have a transmission shop evaluate it. Metal particles built-up in the torque converter can also cause vibration, this is hard to diagnose with certainty.
I had the dealership replace all four mounts during and engine pull for oil consumption warranty. The car is noisy now and I'm wondering if they put the mounts on too loose. Seems unlikely but something is making my car loud.
Nah. They are great little cars that are extremely practical and reliable. But aspects of any inline 4 make doing certain repairs difficult as compared to a V-6 or 8 and others extremely simple by comparison.
Torque specs: Rear mount 3 nuts & 1 bolt under the suspension member: 38 ft. lbs. Rear mount long bolt that goes through insulator: 48 ft. lbs for North American built Vibe/Matrix/Corolla (if it's a Corolla built in Japan it's 64 ft. lbs.). Driver's side mount four bolts into frame: 38 ft. lbs. Driver's side mount nut that fastens the long bolt which goes through insulator: 59 ft. lbs.
What year is this vehicle you're working on
Do ALL of the mounts. Makes a huge difference - Including transmission mount (4 total). And if you are going to do that, you might as well do the entire suspension system. It is probably time for all of it. Makes the car feel like new. The entire job is NOT easy. Hire it out for sure. Get a mobile mechanic to do it. Totally worth it.
The engine mounts aren't that hard to do yourself, the rear mount is the toughest one but not all that complicated the other 3 are quite easy
I was a GM mechanic, motor and transaxle mounts can bee sneaky,
The Cavaliers had a recall on motor mounts, when I replaced them they looked great and I would have never suspected them by a visual inspection, but the fresh mounts cured the vibration, I found it educational
I have a 2009 Vibe I bought brand new. 2.4 still drives like a bat outta heck....166K+ miles. BUT, I have this exact problem. I suspected it was the mounts, this confirms it. THANK YOU!
I have the exact same car with the exact same problem. Thanks to your video I was able to fix it! Thank you!
I have a 2003 Toyota Matrix with this exact issue, fingers crossed that this fixes it because it's shaking the darn fillings out of my teeth!
Considering our circumstances, we're practically twin sisters except that I'm a male, and you are nothing short of drop dead gorgeous.
I have the same car and have the vibration on my car, The shop said it would be 800 hundred dollars to fix it. I will live with it. Love this car and have kept in good shape.
Got old one out somewhat easily, but new mount(rear) did not wanna go in. I had to use a die grinder to remove quite a bit of material from the 2 front side(motor side) feet so it would clear a few obstacles keeping it from seating fully onto the subframe. After the modification it dropped right in with no further problems. Good luck, Happy Wrenching.
Question the the rear removal. Do u need to jack the engine up before remove the rear motor mount?
Thank you for this video and information. Could you please do my car now? 😂 Just kidding
This had to be a 1.8 Liter engine. I have 2.4L and the rear motor mount I could not get free but no way to wrestle it out of there. Believe me I tried.
Mine was doing the same thing. Changed the motor mounts and it didn't make any difference. Still vibrates. 😭
Hmmm...... Is there any thing going on with the transmission? There could be some junk in the torque converter, that can make a vibration too. Not sure where else to look. Did all the motor mounts seem to line-up properly?
@@JeffsAuto
The motor mounts seemed fine. It does make an odd noise when the torque converter unlocks like when in fourth gear and I start to go up a hill. The converter unlocks but still in fourth. When I step on it harder and it downshifts to third the noise goes away. Kind of a rattling screeching noise momentarily. Transmission shift and behaves good otherwise. Fluid looks good. Time of day, weather conditions and engine temp doesn't seem to matter. Do you think a transmission flush would be a good idea? Car as around 111k miles.
Easy fix. Just the chain tensioner...35 dollars. Gl
How many miles were on the car at the time of this repair? I have an '06 Vibe with 158,36x and have a similar issue. Buddy thinks its a timing chain, but 1. Yotas never throw one and 2. I really don't wanna have to drop the motor....
I don't think it is a timing chain either. But, worst case scenario, I think can be the torque converter sometimes.
Check your motor mounts with a mirror. Check your harmonic balancer too
I purchased a set of motor mounts on Ebay. They all come from the same place. You get all four mounts. The rear one, the same one you did for this video is a real pain in the butt to do. So far I've changed the back, right side (right below the air cleaner), and the front. The rear one was completely broken rubber along with the front. The side one was ok but I changed it anyway. The left side is the only one I have left to do but it looks fine. I still have a knocking sound whenever I drive over rough patch of road so I still have something broken under the hood.
Did you ever find out what the knocking sound was when driving over a rough road or going over bumps, I am having the same problem
@@adamnasir2 Sorry Adam but I sold the Vibe over two years ago. but I believe it did turn out to be one on the left side.
@@adamnasir2 have you looked at your ball joints ? knocking noise going over rough road or bumps would give you a knock on either side if a ball joint is worn out.
@@adamnasir2sounds like your sway bar links are bad...easy fix !!
All of the aftermarket mounts have terrible reviews.
I have used both. I think the factory mounts are less rigid and fit better, but they both work. Sometimes the factory motor mounts are about the same price as the after market. Depends on the year and model.
nice video by a very nice guy , easy to see, comfortable to watch ,
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi there i have an Audi a5 3.0 tdi Quattro. I have an excessive vibration in the cabin of the car. I took it to one garage and they told me all i need to do is change the engine mounts, i also took it to another garage and they said not only do i have to change the engine mounts but i have to change the dual mass fly wheel as well. When i turn the ac on, the car revs goes from 610 to 910 and the vibrations stops completely until the ac is turned off again. Do you think this could be a problem with the dual mass fly wheel. Many thanks !!!!!! Please get back to me asap before i waste a lot of money !! P.S the engine sounds completely the same when i engage and dis engage the clutch.
Ies
Is the Generic motor mounts still holding up fine?
No problems.
My mechanic has changed all including the plugs but still it vibrates when am on traffic and I apply break. kindly advise me what I should do next . thank you this video
If all else fails, take it to a transmission shop for evaluation, because in the worst case scenario, the excessive vibration may be caused by the torque converter falling apart internally.
1ZZFE rattle box. Most vibration engine I've ever experienced
These things will rattle your fillings out of your teeth
A Jersey Girl's best friend
how far up can you jack up the gearbox without unbolting anything, I need to remove the bolt of the left control arm, any idea? thanks
Your an awesome chap
Thank you!
Do you have to put a support under the transmission before removing that rear mount behind the engine? @Jeff's Auto
Yea
Thanks for your help!
Can you just inspect them with a boroscope?
Maybe a microscope or a stethoscope. It depends on your horoscope
I wonder if this is my problem. I have an 06 with 40k on it. It was totaled though. Front end hits. I did replace some front suspension stuff that was damaged in the accident. I have noticed it shakes when I'm idleing. It gets worse when in gear at a light or something. I thought it was an evap leaks or a dirty maf sensor but now I'm wondering about this. It has no dummy lights or codes. Can you see the mounts well enough to tell if they are bad without removing them?
I think the mounts are the most common problem. If you cannot visually see the mount damage, then sometimes it can help to diagnose by prying on the rubber while it is running with a long pry bar, to add more pressure and see if the vibration reduces. But, if it is not the mounts, maybe you should have a transmission shop evaluate it. Metal particles built-up in the torque converter can also cause vibration, this is hard to diagnose with certainty.
@@JeffsAuto Do you think this was a design flaw?
I had the dealership replace all four mounts during and engine pull for oil consumption warranty. The car is noisy now and I'm wondering if they put the mounts on too loose. Seems unlikely but something is making my car loud.
maybe one of the muffler or tailpipe shields.
Thanks I'll take another look. I added new rubber bushings in the past and have the special tool.
What brand did you buy
Autozone.
How can I find the right parts? I'm experiencing the same engine shaking
Did you use OEM mounts or aftermarket? I'm looking to do this on my matrix but don't want to buy from Toyota because they're crazy expensive.
After market.
What brand of you don’t mind me asking
Great job Sr. Thanks for the video
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
👍😎❤️😎👍
Thank you!
Injectors
What year and engine is this?
Thomas Sweeney 2004 Pontiac Vibe, he says it in the beginning of the video
Toyota 1ZZFE engine 1.8 liter. Very reliable engine.
Had enough of this car I’m going to scream!
best way to fix a vibe...molotov cocktail
Mr Dave Oh great, esp now that I am out of a job! Started overheating, I think, today. How can I know for sure if that's all it is?
Nah. They are great little cars that are extremely practical and reliable. But aspects of any inline 4 make doing certain repairs difficult as compared to a V-6 or 8 and others extremely simple by comparison.