A wonderful video Peter. I appreciate and admire the care you take in doing each step of a repair. You have a delightfully warm approach that makes me feel as if I'm there in the shop with you. This oxidation issue is something I will better remember because of the way you explained it. Thank you.
For those who are broke and want to use products laying around the house, I use baking soda and water mixed to clean and a little motor oil to protect and stop from reforming. this combo seems to work very good for me over many years and is cheap.
Toyota Maintenance, I do so very much appreciate what you teach me (and I'm a guy who's been keeping his own cars going for around 50 some years now). And my 01 4Runner is exhibiting these very symptoms. So I made sure the battery was ok and (brush/baking soda) cleaned the terminals and ultimately changed out the starter selenoid. But still that weird "sometimes it cranks, but sometimes it doesn't - especially in the cold mornings. But I haven't cleaned the "positive battery terminal connector wires" nor the "negative ground". So now I have something to try tomorrow morning. Thanks again.
Thanks for the very complete video for a simple job. Great to see every step you took! That battery cleaner looks good. If it could help someone out, I also had the same problem as the customer where I could only start the car with a jumpstart, but it wasn't because of positive and negative cables, it was the actual battery terminals. The difference was that I got the lights to go on when I put the keys in the ignition, but it wouldn't even click. I thought they were completely clean since there was no oxidization visible to me and they looked nice and grey. I took the battery to two different autozones because I thought it was bad, but it tested good. I then installed it back and no start. So what I did was even though the terminals looked clean I cleaned them with that battery cleaning tool brush and also with one of those toothbrushes that have the metal bristles and installed it again and it worked. So what I am trying to say, even though it might look clean, the oxidization might just look like the metal so clean it anyways before you start troubleshooting something else. Also, with a lot of cars if you don't have a good battery connection some electronics on the car might act up so check the battery before you start troubleshooting the perceived problem.
i just did this for my 3rd gen 4runner, symptom was a single click when trying to start the truck, the terminals were still OEM from year 2000 so it was time to replace them. Although the battery had no issues (5-year old Interstate batt) I replaced that too just to be on the safe side. Now starting up real good, getting 14V when charging and 13V when off. Purrrrfect.
There was a bit of corrosion in my 2008 Tundra's battery terminals when I bought the truck in 2013. It was on the clamp and barely touching the cable's lug. I just replaced the clamp. My wife's 2017 RX350 had a bit of corrosion and I replaced the clamp too. Every time I remove the clamps I clean the batteries terminal post and inside the clamp with a post cleaner. Scratching up both the post and clamp helps make a good electrical bond. This was something I learned back in the early 70's. In the 80's I worked on aircraft and the rule on grounding changed. It was illegal to use a component, frame... as a ground path. A separate wire had to be ran for bonding and all metal surfaces had to be bonded.
Baking soda will clean off the corrosion. Then coat everything with any kind of grease, and it will not corrode again. That grease will stay on there forever. Years ago, that was the standard preventative solution. I use the white grease, so I can see it on there. Metal doesn't care if it is greasy.
The solution is buying an AGM battery. No more corrosion issues or preventatives needed. And it’s superior battery technology. Use them in all of my Toyota/Lexus platforms and in customers cars.
Thanks for the video, a question, my matrix 2009 starter stay engaged one second after the engine run , what could be the problem thanks to answer me back
Always learning when I watch your stuff....That much corrosion, and much of it covered over....Yes, worth recording to show us just how much the battery terminals, and cable area is crucial for starting..Thanks
I had a similar problem on 2004 Corolla. Same 1.8 L engine. Ended up having to replace negative cable that connects to ground. That thing was rusted and corroded and wasn’t passing voltage. Changed terminals on cables. Car functioned better than ever
Hey Peter long time supporter due to your thorough knowledge. I picked up a 2007 tundra for a good deal. It has 150k and hearing a whine under acceleration around 40/50 mph. Pinion bearing? Any suggestions? Thanks
Do you think $1657.05 is a reasonable quote for the services listed below for this vehicle 2003 Tacoma Xtra Cab 5VZ-FE 4WD: Spark Plug R&R Transmission fluid R&R Crank Case Fluid R&R Front Differential Fluid R&R Rear Differential Fluid R&R Fuel Filter R&R Front and Rear Brake pads, shoes, rotors and drums R&R $925.5 in Labor The rest in parts, shop supplies, disposal fees, and taxes. $1657.05-$925.5=$731.55 I'm not complaining I just don't know if this is a reasonable quote. I have no one to ask as a reference. Thank you for your time and effort to answer. I love your videos, so detailed and focused, very helpful.
Nice work! I assume you sprayed the terminals afterwards with the protector. Just wondering if we could use the cleaner on electronic gadgets that get messed up because of leaky batteries.
I'm not sure if it can clean battery oxidization, but if I clean electronics parts I either use crc electronics cleaner or crc mass air flow cleaner. The mass air flow sensor has sensitive metals on it so I am assuming it will be safe for electric connections, but if you want to be safe you can use the electronics cleaner.
You know it's messy, but I would push that Corolla hatchback is basically what it is out just far enough out to be able to use that warm water after making your soup and coffee to maybe mix with a little tap water to cool it down a little to pour over the corrosion. Maybe even use the hot water for parts except the actual battery and it just melts away. No screwdriver or pick necessary. And then you can nozzle air dry it or paper towels and if you want to use the cleaner to neutralize it further.. I have the Noco brand from Walmart. Big can. Probably will last me a whole at home. I also have a small spray squirt can of the protection spray grease as well but I'm sure people can just spray white lithium grease on there for the same effect.. whatever thick grease people have around. People like using the dielectric but it makes no difference as long as the gases can't corrode the terminal. I never liked interstate although all the mechanics swear by it. I found they always outgas and corrosion was high. Clarios the new company for whomever was the old one Johnson Controls was pretty good at not making the acid powder. Beware the sniffles around that! It burns!
Great video! 👍 sorry for asking but I heard your accent & can’t figure out where you are from, where are you born? Do I hear an Finnish accent? Keep up the good work! 👍
You should disconnect the negative first, and reattach it last. The reason is the body is negative, and if your wrench or ratchet touches the chassis while you are disconnecting the positive, it will not short out if you have removed the negative already.
I had this exact problem on my 2005 Toyota Tundra Double Cab, couldn’t figure it out, replaced 4 batteries, and 2 alternators after I finally took it to the dealer. 4000$ later :’(
![[Part 4] หนุ่มน้อยรักคุณย่ายิ่งกว่าใคร ไม่ว่าใครก็รังแกดูถูกท่านไม่ได้!! #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sLsBxw99FR0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great car, I have an 04 5MT myself. Best car I've ever had - plan on driving it until it doesn't drive anymore. Currently at 296,000km
That's nothing for that car. You can easily cross a million km on it with stock engine and tranny!
A wonderful video Peter. I appreciate and admire the care you take in doing each step of a repair. You have a delightfully warm approach that makes me feel as if I'm there in the shop with you. This oxidation issue is something I will better remember because of the way you explained it. Thank you.
For those who are broke and want to use products laying around the house, I use baking soda and water mixed to clean and a little motor oil to protect and stop from reforming. this combo seems to work very good for me over many years and is cheap.
We always used vaseline. I don't think it is too important, as long as it keeps the air out. Oil from the dipstick would be right there, good idea.
Dielectric grease also works as protection
Toyota Maintenance, I do so very much appreciate what you teach me (and I'm a guy who's been keeping his own cars going for around 50 some years now). And my 01 4Runner is exhibiting these very symptoms. So I made sure the battery was ok and (brush/baking soda) cleaned the terminals and ultimately changed out the starter selenoid. But still that weird "sometimes it cranks, but sometimes it doesn't - especially in the cold mornings. But I haven't cleaned the "positive battery terminal connector wires" nor the "negative ground". So now I have something to try tomorrow morning. Thanks again.
What I like about his videos he really has nothing to sell nothing on the drop down menu just fixing and telling you about the vehicles
Thanks for the very complete video for a simple job. Great to see every step you took! That battery cleaner looks good. If it could help someone out, I also had the same problem as the customer where I could only start the car with a jumpstart, but it wasn't because of positive and negative cables, it was the actual battery terminals. The difference was that I got the lights to go on when I put the keys in the ignition, but it wouldn't even click. I thought they were completely clean since there was no oxidization visible to me and they looked nice and grey. I took the battery to two different autozones because I thought it was bad, but it tested good. I then installed it back and no start. So what I did was even though the terminals looked clean I cleaned them with that battery cleaning tool brush and also with one of those toothbrushes that have the metal bristles and installed it again and it worked. So what I am trying to say, even though it might look clean, the oxidization might just look like the metal so clean it anyways before you start troubleshooting something else. Also, with a lot of cars if you don't have a good battery connection some electronics on the car might act up so check the battery before you start troubleshooting the perceived problem.
Cool. I have a 2006 Matrix 4WD with 203,356 miles. Runs like a champ! 5K OCI with full synthetic 5w30...it's about to get it's 41st oil change.
@@franktes2002 Every 5,000 miles.
i just did this for my 3rd gen 4runner, symptom was a single click when trying to start the truck, the terminals were still OEM from year 2000 so it was time to replace them. Although the battery had no issues (5-year old Interstate batt) I replaced that too just to be on the safe side. Now starting up real good, getting 14V when charging and 13V when off. Purrrrfect.
One of the few channels with no need to skip ahead. Your intros are perfection.
There was a bit of corrosion in my 2008 Tundra's battery terminals when I bought the truck in 2013. It was on the clamp and barely touching the cable's lug. I just replaced the clamp. My wife's 2017 RX350 had a bit of corrosion and I replaced the clamp too. Every time I remove the clamps I clean the batteries terminal post and inside the clamp with a post cleaner. Scratching up both the post and clamp helps make a good electrical bond. This was something I learned back in the early 70's. In the 80's I worked on aircraft and the rule on grounding changed. It was illegal to use a component, frame... as a ground path. A separate wire had to be ran for bonding and all metal surfaces had to be bonded.
Baking soda will clean off the corrosion. Then coat everything with any kind of grease, and it will not corrode again. That grease will stay on there forever. Years ago, that was the standard preventative solution. I use the white grease, so I can see it on there. Metal doesn't care if it is greasy.
The solution is buying an AGM battery. No more corrosion issues or preventatives needed. And it’s superior battery technology. Use them in all of my Toyota/Lexus platforms and in customers cars.
Thanks for the video, a question,
my matrix 2009 starter stay engaged one second after the engine run , what could be the problem thanks to answer me back
Always learning when I watch your stuff....That much corrosion, and much of it covered over....Yes, worth recording to show us just how much the battery terminals, and cable area is crucial for starting..Thanks
Excellent! Can you id where you got the replacement terminal?
I had a similar problem on 2004 Corolla. Same 1.8 L engine.
Ended up having to replace negative cable that connects to ground. That thing was rusted and corroded and wasn’t passing voltage. Changed terminals on cables. Car functioned better than ever
Some batteries aren't sealed very well around the terminals and will "breath" acid vapors on the post connectors while charging.
Hey Peter long time supporter due to your thorough knowledge. I picked up a 2007 tundra for a good deal. It has 150k and hearing a whine under acceleration around 40/50 mph. Pinion bearing? Any suggestions? Thanks
I've used hot water to clean the terminals, it was EZ and very quick?
Did you end up spraying the terminals with sealer?
Do you think $1657.05 is a reasonable quote for the services listed below for this vehicle 2003 Tacoma Xtra Cab 5VZ-FE 4WD:
Spark Plug R&R
Transmission fluid R&R
Crank Case Fluid R&R
Front Differential Fluid R&R
Rear Differential Fluid R&R
Fuel Filter R&R
Front and Rear Brake pads, shoes, rotors and drums R&R
$925.5 in Labor The rest in parts, shop supplies, disposal fees, and taxes.
$1657.05-$925.5=$731.55
I'm not complaining I just don't know if this is a reasonable quote. I have no one to ask as a reference. Thank you for your time and effort to answer. I love your videos, so detailed and focused, very helpful.
Great video & problem solving. 👍😎🇨🇦
Thank you Peter :) Hope those roof workers had protection :) Yoo are D man Peter.
These are such good cars!
NONSHIM soup cup. I recognize.
Nice work! I assume you sprayed the terminals afterwards with the protector. Just wondering if we could use the cleaner on electronic gadgets that get messed up because of leaky batteries.
I'm not sure if it can clean battery oxidization, but if I clean electronics parts I either use crc electronics cleaner or crc mass air flow cleaner. The mass air flow sensor has sensitive metals on it so I am assuming it will be safe for electric connections, but if you want to be safe you can use the electronics cleaner.
You know it's messy, but I would push that Corolla hatchback is basically what it is out just far enough out to be able to use that warm water after making your soup and coffee to maybe mix with a little tap water to cool it down a little to pour over the corrosion. Maybe even use the hot water for parts except the actual battery and it just melts away. No screwdriver or pick necessary. And then you can nozzle air dry it or paper towels and if you want to use the cleaner to neutralize it further.. I have the Noco brand from Walmart. Big can. Probably will last me a whole at home. I also have a small spray squirt can of the protection spray grease as well but I'm sure people can just spray white lithium grease on there for the same effect.. whatever thick grease people have around. People like using the dielectric but it makes no difference as long as the gases can't corrode the terminal. I never liked interstate although all the mechanics swear by it. I found they always outgas and corrosion was high. Clarios the new company for whomever was the old one Johnson Controls was pretty good at not making the acid powder. Beware the sniffles around that! It burns!
Hi just wondering, by chance does it have about 236,000 Miles or a little over that
Petr, They should have bought a Vibe instead of a Matrix. 😉
I always use WD-40 in my engine bay on a regular schedule,don't forget the hood,trunk latches & door,it's maintenance my friends ❤
Useful and entertaining video which I enjoyed watching. Thanks.
I like the terminal cleaner and the protector.
Thanks for sharing this video, interesting problems.
If your in a pinch throw the terminal in some coca-cola. Cleans it really well.
Great video! 👍 sorry for asking but I heard your accent & can’t figure out where you are from, where are you born? Do I hear an Finnish accent?
Keep up the good work! 👍
sounds Germanic to me..
Do you always do positive first or negative first
You should disconnect the negative first, and reattach it last. The reason is the body is negative, and if your wrench or ratchet touches the chassis while you are disconnecting the positive, it will not short out if you have removed the negative already.
Lithium grease not needed? 🤔
We used baking soda (in a bit of water) to clean the terminals. We did not have all that "modern" spray can stuff.....
thank you for making this
My 2007 Vibe, is up to 255,000 miles
I had this exact problem on my 2005 Toyota Tundra Double Cab, couldn’t figure it out, replaced 4 batteries, and 2 alternators after I finally took it to the dealer. 4000$ later :’(
Fluid Film will protect terminals also
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Good stuff
Without watching this I'm guessing the selenoid of the starter was not getting proper current. I will see how wrong I am now🙂
Wow.
❤👌👍👍
If the time is go out
That's a very dirty engine compartment. Yuk
Clean with Coca-Cola corrosion gone forever.
I jus bought a new battery
I wouldn't have wasted my time cleaning. Buy new cables and use a Dielectric grease.
Wouldn't it take more time to change cables than to clean the old ones?
Good call Peter!!!!