I work for Composite Envisions, and It’s really cool to see what people do with the products they get from us. We don’t see it very often so thanks for sharing!
Couldn't have done it without a lot of help from your company and friends over on DIY Carbon Fiber on Facebook. Community support is essential to making this dream come to life.
Composite Envisions?!! Heck you're right in my back yard! Matter-of-fact, some of your material already has been used in, and more will be finding its way into an airplane being built over at the Wausau Airport in the Learn Build Fly hangar.
I'm near Steven's Point and just became an EAA member, thanks for mentioning the Learn build fly program. I didn't know of it, but I'll be sure to see what it's all about. Hopefully this corona stuff blows over soon.
I can totally appreciate your excitement and enthusiasm when those babies popped out of the mold and looked as good as they did. Men can't give birth, but this has to be close... Congratulations!
September in Canada. Raised in South Florida, Fort Lauderdale, and 60 years later living in Tallahassee with its rather mild winter. 70F inside in the winter is NOT the same as 70F outside in the summer. "Jack, why is it 78F inside your house?" The mold making was fascinating and answered a lot of questions I have BEFORE trying it myself. Great videos. Look forward to watching more.
Thanks Jack - I worked it out after your comment...I keep my shop in the winter around 48F. Crazy - but I find this a very comfortable temperature. If you have questions just ask!
Why thank you. I guess the work is finally getting some YT attention. I used to worry about the views...then that has just stopped mattering. I'm trying to learn how to make watchable content and better videos.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Your video quality is just fine, perhaps the audio could be improved a tiny bit. The way you present your content is on point and yet entertaining with some genuine goofiness that keeps you real instead of turning you into the usual "tv host". Your channel is a true gem. Perhaps it's the marketing\promotional side of things that doesn't work? I wouldn't know how to help with that, as you can see with my own channel I suck pretty hard at it!
Excellent video, I was a fibreglasser in the 90s where I got my trade we made race/rallycar seats , which were and still are the best made in Australia.. the only comment is when pulling the part out is to stand it upright and twist left to right a few times to crack the part free, but hey, the end product does satisfy after all the hard work.. Seeing a non bubbled carbon fender, bonnet, race seat is what it's all about 👍👍
Thanks for the tip. What I've gained is a great deal of respect for people that do this craft. It looks so easy - but boy - it's not. There is a lot of skill involved in making it look easy!
@@IvelLeCog exactly 👍. On long molds I stand on the end and flex the other end left to right, but not much as it can damage gelcoat in the mold after a period of time. Also fitting a tyre valve in the mold is another way to help crack the part loose
You were very smart to seek advice from those who do this daily, thus saving yourself money, time and probably some heartache. When I was doing similar work, I did the same thing. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask when you should.
Hey, that is really cool, you just did it in your garage. I am a Innovative textile student and we always did it only in laboratory. Thank you so much to share your knowledge.
You did seriously good considering your experience to take on a part like that. Nothing better than seeing the work when it breaks out perfect. Keep it up
Great job. Good video. One thing I started doing is an envelope bag. Composite envisions has a bag that is basically a tube and you just slide your whole mold in the bag and seal up the ends. Way less chance for leaks and frustration dealing with all the ears you have to use. Just make sure the back side of the mold is smooth or padded. Been wanting to do some parts for my 67 GMC and watching your videos made me more excited about it.
Excellent - when I bought the materials, I didn't know about envelope bags. They would be real time savers and ensure that you get a leak free seal every time.
Love the dedication that Jake and the staff, at Composite Envisions, have towards their customers. I being one of them have soaked up time from Jake while he patiently answered my beginner questions without judgement. HUGE props to them and you for promoting them.
Great video! I've done the same for fenders on a rally car but a little different, i used 2 layers of carbon/kevlar hybrid and 1 layer of woven fiberglass reinforcement (200gsm from memory) and a wet lay up. The supplier of the material told me not to use all carbon/kevlar layers as its a waste of material and money with no real strength gain. The idea of spraying the mould with primer is brillant, this would allow you to repair any problems without sand through to the material. Awesome work.
I do have to re-view this because I was busy cooking a burger patty with bacon and chugging on a cold corona. Soon after I ETS from the military I Corona. Work in a Corvette body repair shop and acquired a gang of knowledge and skill about fiberglass. I also learned to paint finishes from stock to custom and anything in between. Some of the techniques I learned in repairing fiberglass bodies I use in metal bodies. I learned to make molds so they can be used to produce many parts and I learned to maintain those molds. I learned how to use a chopper gun to lay up parts and molds. I learned to use the fiberglass cord/string that runs through the gun to re-enforce stress areas in a part. In conclusion, I did enjoy this video even though your are total novice. If could visit your shop I could teach you some really cool simple techniques to use to make your work easier and produce excellent parts.
Such a timely find - I want to do my own fenders, hood and trunk for my Grand Marquis, maybe even replace the metal door skins with composites. Hmmmmm... What all's in this playlist? Damn, looks like I hit the motherlode!! Thank you, good sir!
I worked on motorcycle carbon exhaust cover, its very challenging. But after seeing this, its not even close. This is big part to be complete. Wow...learned a lot.Thanks. Great project... Subb
Congrats on your progress man. Great video. I have a 1954 Chevy 2 door I'm planning on completely recreating in Carbon. Refreshing to see someone else doing something cool with a classic.
when you said spend hours looking for leeks made me laugh out loud, been there done that. The more time you spend on the pleats and the seal tape the more time you save on the leeks. love the video
Great Job!!. One thing that I've changed in my process is that I've stopped using the blue paper shop towels except for cleanup. Solvents in many products will leach a residue out of the paper towels and leave the residue behind on your surface. You can see what I'm talking about if you put some alcohol on a blue towel and then rub it on a shiny aluminum surface (try removing some black permanent marker from the aluminum). You will see a whitish residue on the aluminum once the alcohol has evaporated from the surface. I've switched to using the boxed cotton "shop rags". They are just cut up white T-shirts and such. Keep up the good work.
Good job dude! Your vid was the first I've ever looked up regarding carbon fiber. Love how you sped things up to save viewing time! Great job making it quick, yet very informing. Too bad more other guys/videos, aren't done like that!! Again......., GREAT JOB!
An absolute master of shade tree carbon fiber build is Mike Patey, the creator of the wilga "DRACO" plane. He's just lovin to tell you how and do it right. Hellava nice guy. Looks like your not doing to bad 😀
Holy crap, Sir! Watching this video was AWESOME!!! I am very proud of the work that you have shared with us, in this video! Very good work and research. The fact that you shared this with anyone who would like to see it, is cray! The amount of time and effort that you have put into making this video is the MOST that anyone has shared with me on TH-cam! I know what you had to go through, in order to make this happen, and I truly appreciate this! This is so great. All of the details that I needed to know? RIGHT HERE! Thank you, so much! I can't believe that I had to wait for a Canadian to show me this, but whatevs. Right? Man! Those fenders turned-out perfect, from what I could tell. 5 pounds?! What a savings in weight! This is unbelievable! That laughter that you let out, when you released that first fender from the mold... I totally get that. You had so much riding on that, and it came out so perfectly, that you probably couldn't believe it! That's what that laugh was about... A good news surprised feeling, knowing that all is well, and that it was YOU that did it. I did the same thing after I programmed my first part on a CNC machine, and held the final product. I was like "Damn, all of that worry, and it was this easy". Anyway, thank you so much, Sir! I will keep this as my reference video.
Thanks for the kind words. I'm not concerned with those few that commented about my laughing. I left that in for folks like you and me that have DONE this and felt the relief and joy. 5/6 lbs is the final weight. So pleased with it. At last count, 180 segments of video filmed over 2 weeks - a lot of work.
In the event you ever go with another huge part and aren't quite first time lucky, experimenting with fiberglass is far cheaper before you step into CF. Despite most people's understanding of CF, the upper tier of woven fiberglass is actually stronger than the equivalent CF, just not as stiff. That's really where CF shines is stiffness. One can also use alternating layers of FG and CF so long as both fabrics use the same epoxy variants. Just remember that these things aren't getting their strength from too much epoxy. It's definitely a fine art of applying just enough for strength vs weight, and CF definitely prefers precise ratios for a given fabric weight.
Fantastic, love the detail and learning I gained from this video, this is better than some of the instructional videos by professional and I looking forward to more
The info and products this guy got from www.compositeenvisions.com is right on spot. They have 3 videos u can buy that show u how step by step matching grains & fibers as goog as major auto whow quality. Just to get a free glimpse into how-to's with molding products and skills check out www.freemansupply.com for their free libraries.
Nice Work! If yo run into tear out or cracking around bolt flanges or sharp corners, add a layer of 4 Harness Satin, 5 ounce Kevlar in the area somewhere in the middle of the lay-up. Doing a whole layer of Kevlar under the foam will help with print through of the foam, and make for an astonishingly tough piece. If you go the Kevlar route, do yourself a favor and buy a pair of Kevlar specific shears, keep them clean and don't use them for ANYTHING else. I've had really good luck doing rowing shell (racing row boat) repairs with it. I must admit that while I use vacuum when practical, I haven't tried infusion with Kevlar. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks - much appreciated. I learned to like fibreglass...every material has it's challenges and my main learning experience was to treat fibreglass with a lot more respect. It was easier to do when I wasn't being sloppy and assuming things would turn out!
Very awesome! I can't think of any project I might use this process for, but I enjoyed your humble commentary and your concise instructions. I mean really, really enjoyed it! I will be watching the rest of this series-- and anything else you might film! Than you!
Very cool, thank you very much for the information! I am thinking of doing similar stuff to my classic car. The primer is really something new to me. I figured I'd have to do that with paint later.
Congratulations ! I imagine this is not cheap. I went to plastics & auto body school in high school, I should've paid more attention . I'm building a 70 dart swinger with a stroked big block & would love to save big money by losing lots of weight.
Wow, I'm totally impressed. As a reverse code engineer (info security geek), this type of content is entirely outside of my area of expertise but when I saw the title of the video, my interest was immediately piqued. Someone making a carbon fiber fender in their own garage? Sign me up... Its obvious this took a lot of hard work, dedication, research, time, and money. Thanks for sharing all of that with the rest of us. Great job!
Not bad, not bad at all! Planning the flanges out is prob the most important step in making the molds, especially if many future pulls will be done(and you will def want to if the mold is easy to use and easy to trim)
Amazing work! Your research and methodical approach has paid dividends, as well as your tenacity to see it through; food for thought about what it takes to make a flawless quality part... Something I'm not ready for yet!
@@ThrottleStopGarage you said you were from canada eh? Are there laws or restrictions on fiberglassing your entire car? Im in the usa and i gotta check. But im determined to loose body weight
Great video series. I'm not sure anyone has shown such a detailed series on making a composite part besides the "Easy Composites Ltd" channel. I'm not sure if I missed it in any of the comments, and I haven't seen the rest of the videos yet, but from other videos one thing that might help you get your parts out is to apply a little compressed air once you have a corner or two lifted up.
Thanks Paul - I'm now using the air trick with some success. I think the shape of the part makes a big difference - flatter parts for sure benefit from a little air.
@ Lockheed we used 8 axis of frozen layers and plenty of resin with diapers before going into the vacuum heat chamber. pull the vacuum slower and roller the crap out of ut to remove all the bubbles. pull a vacuum lock the ball valve and set a timer for 10 minutes, it should not drop when locked. oB
When you are only using a few layers of fiber and have time (epoxy) it is really nice to put perforated release film between the peel ply and the flow mesh. It helps with getting the flow features (Enkafusion, spiral wrap, etc.) off and it can help keep air bubbles that form in the mesh and not in the part. Looks like it came out nice!
I do have some perforated film - I just haven't used it. I'll have to try this for sure. I'm happy with the parts so far - some have been a struggle, but that's just part of the process.
Great video Sir and you are obviously very proud with the finished product. One point of note is Carbon Fibre is lethal when being trimmed. Masks and gloves must be worn at all times.
You put more layers than I expected! I was thinking two layers first then and aero mat core and another final inside layer of carbon for my parts but you put 3 on each side I think (?) Awesome work!!!!
Looks great. I will take September in Canada all day to September in TEXAS. It's still almost 100 degrees out here... Working outside in the summer as a mechanic really sucked.
September is a weird month for us...winter comes fast and Canadians tend to get a little anxious in the Fall as you never know what's coming next for weather.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I played hockey in Canada over some summers for tournaments and stuff but never there for winter except Montreal.... weird using tunnels but man it was cold. Miss the hockey but not the weather.
Great work,good video something you might want to try is lantor soric C.E.. sells it you might replace some of the carbon, and replace the flow medium and have more area cored.
Nice job, normaly on those last parts of the infusion (Corners )I use one hair dryer to eat litle bit the resin and it flows nicely, I use Epoxi, when heated it flows very good. nice
Have you thought about using chopped carbon fiber, if your not looking for asthetic, i think it would be a good base layer to capture all those details that you needed. Then you can use your 2x2 twill or whatever for strength. I'd probably use unidirectional offset on 45. If you ever watch how fiberglass hot tubs are made in mold, they use compressed air to just pop their massive and complex parts right out.
I've honestly never thought of this. I know the air popping was mentioned several times by people with much more experience than me. I was always scared to try.
Sort of depends if my wife reads the comments or not. Truthfully, it's hard to cost it all out. Mold cost is about $300, carbon fiber and consumables about twice that per fender. Time - assuming no mistakes, at least 40 hours per side. Good thing labour is free.
I must say, great video!! I'm planning on making a hood. If that all goes well I'll make the fenders, bumpers, and quarter panels down the road. Absolutely priceless. Thank you for your time. Subscribed!
Great job! I was smiling right along with you!!! And the fender in your left hand already has a passenger @ 29:50! A true testament to its usability! LOL!
Ok, I was watching mainly because I was trying to kill some time before leaving work....and the results BLEW MY MIND! Good job dude! That's some amazing stuff :).
Really like your videos, great result on the parts. Congratulations. A couple comments on glassing. I've heard you talk about catalyst ratios a couple of times, while you can catalyze resin using weight or volume you need to be sure to reference the correct table. Most tables give ratios by volume, so be careful that you're getting what you believe your are. Duratec is correctly catalyzed by volume, as is any resin system. Also on the vail (first layer) you really should use csm to prevent print through. If your having problems getting it around corners consider a lighter weight mat. You can also thicken up some resin with cabosil (fumed silica) and putty the inside radius to soften it. One more item, you should never need to dart csm to have it conform. As soon as styrene is applied to the mat, it will loosen right up and conform to the most intricate shapes. CSM is already a relatively weak product and by cutting darts you take 100% of the strength out of that layer in those areas. Just start wetting it out and it will lay right down.
Thanks Steve. Good points on all counts. My reference to Duratec's ratios was from their video - they list weight and volume. What I read said 2 percent by weight. I wasn't able to source different weights of CSM locally. I just took delivery of some veil for my next mold. I didn't think about the strength issue when I cut it. I have a couple of different weights of cloth to do my next molds and proper tooling gel coat. Learning!
Trying looking for "carbon fiber fabrics" and Hexcell is a good source too. You could also use fiberglass for the mistakes. Carbon fiber uses a different resin than typical fiberglass. There is also an industry magazine called Composite Materials that has great articles and sources.
wonder if bagging a part works better if you use an actual bag and pull it around the whole thing , only need to close up one side and thats ontoo itself
Do you have to make a mold or can you use your original fender to lay the carbon fabric on there and make your new fender right off the original one? I thought i watched a video of someone doing that recently.... 🤔🤔 I really want to give it a shot at making fenders, trunk, hood, door skins, and a custom lip kit for my car but i really dont have ANY experience in doing something like this so i wouldnt even know where to start.
The fender if made the way you suggest would be larger than the original part. So, I'd say this is not how I'd do it unless there was no other way. I'm sure it can be done - maybe add a few layers of cloth, bag it up in a wet layup, pull the part and lay more layers inside. This starts to sound like more work than making a mold if I'm honest.
I work for Composite Envisions, and It’s really cool to see what people do with the products they get from us. We don’t see it very often so thanks for sharing!
Couldn't have done it without a lot of help from your company and friends over on DIY Carbon Fiber on Facebook. Community support is essential to making this dream come to life.
Love that website
Composite Envisions?!! Heck you're right in my back yard! Matter-of-fact, some of your material already has been used in, and more will be finding its way into an airplane being built over at the Wausau Airport in the Learn Build Fly hangar.
I'm near Steven's Point and just became an EAA member, thanks for mentioning the Learn build fly program. I didn't know of it, but I'll be sure to see what it's all about. Hopefully this corona stuff blows over soon.
You guys rock!
I can totally appreciate your excitement and enthusiasm when those babies popped out of the mold and looked as good as they did. Men can't give birth, but this has to be close... Congratulations!
I was almost in tears when the first one came out. Not even kidding.
Too funny.
I was going to subscribe to this channel, but I hate throttle stops. It's like rain on a parade.
I’m an American but is it weird to notice how happy this guy is. At his age everyone is pissed off. Good for you and the video was awesome.
I work with those people...I try to do my best to be a positive person.
September in Canada. Raised in South Florida, Fort Lauderdale, and 60 years later living in Tallahassee with its rather mild winter. 70F inside in the winter is NOT the same as 70F outside in the summer. "Jack, why is it 78F inside your house?"
The mold making was fascinating and answered a lot of questions I have BEFORE trying it myself.
Great videos. Look forward to watching more.
Thanks Jack - I worked it out after your comment...I keep my shop in the winter around 48F. Crazy - but I find this a very comfortable temperature. If you have questions just ask!
This channel is criminally underserved on youtube. Please keep up the good work, you're amazing!
Why thank you. I guess the work is finally getting some YT attention. I used to worry about the views...then that has just stopped mattering. I'm trying to learn how to make watchable content and better videos.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Your video quality is just fine, perhaps the audio could be improved a tiny bit. The way you present your content is on point and yet entertaining with some genuine goofiness that keeps you real instead of turning you into the usual "tv host". Your channel is a true gem.
Perhaps it's the marketing\promotional side of things that doesn't work? I wouldn't know how to help with that, as you can see with my own channel I suck pretty hard at it!
Rock it if ya got it! It's a part of being committed and your research impelled by your desire and discipline. That's why some do better. Commitment.
I once wanted a carbon fibre factory, I believed its the new black gold of modern age.
Excellent video, I was a fibreglasser in the 90s where I got my trade we made race/rallycar seats , which were and still are the best made in Australia.. the only comment is when pulling the part out is to stand it upright and twist left to right a few times to crack the part free, but hey, the end product does satisfy after all the hard work.. Seeing a non bubbled carbon fender, bonnet, race seat is what it's all about 👍👍
Thanks for the tip. What I've gained is a great deal of respect for people that do this craft. It looks so easy - but boy - it's not. There is a lot of skill involved in making it look easy!
Hi there just for clarification, do you mean like how you would free up ice cubes in an ice tray? Just twist the thing a little?
@@IvelLeCog exactly 👍. On long molds I stand on the end and flex the other end left to right, but not much as it can damage gelcoat in the mold after a period of time.
Also fitting a tyre valve in the mold is another way to help crack the part loose
You were very smart to seek advice from those who do this daily, thus saving yourself money, time and probably some heartache. When I was doing similar work, I did the same thing. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask when you should.
Hey, that is really cool, you just did it in your garage. I am a Innovative textile student and we always did it only in laboratory. Thank you so much to share your knowledge.
You're welcome Yash. Keep innovating.
You did seriously good considering your experience to take on a part like that. Nothing better than seeing the work when it breaks out perfect. Keep it up
Thanks Dan...I should have started with a simpler part. I'm glad it turned out.
ThankYou for taking the trouble to share the fun. You’re doing a great job.
Thanks! It's a great help to me to have people watching.
Great job. Good video. One thing I started doing is an envelope bag. Composite envisions has a bag that is basically a tube and you just slide your whole mold in the bag and seal up the ends. Way less chance for leaks and frustration dealing with all the ears you have to use. Just make sure the back side of the mold is smooth or padded. Been wanting to do some parts for my 67 GMC and watching your videos made me more excited about it.
Excellent - when I bought the materials, I didn't know about envelope bags. They would be real time savers and ensure that you get a leak free seal every time.
Love the dedication that Jake and the staff, at Composite Envisions, have towards their customers. I being one of them have soaked up time from Jake while he patiently answered my beginner questions without judgement. HUGE props to them and you for promoting them.
Meticulous perfection. Obviously your one of the few that can take a computer ,research a project and complete it .
Thanks Mark.
Love that this is for an Amazon. Came across this doing research for my 740 wagon
Thanks - it is my favourite Volvo.
Great video! I've done the same for fenders on a rally car but a little different, i used 2 layers of carbon/kevlar hybrid and 1 layer of woven fiberglass reinforcement (200gsm from memory) and a wet lay up. The supplier of the material told me not to use all carbon/kevlar layers as its a waste of material and money with no real strength gain. The idea of spraying the mould with primer is brillant, this would allow you to repair any problems without sand through to the material. Awesome work.
Thanks Tony.
I do have to re-view this because I was busy cooking a burger patty with bacon and chugging on a cold corona.
Soon after I ETS from the military I Corona. Work in a Corvette body repair shop and acquired a gang of knowledge and skill about fiberglass.
I also learned to paint finishes from stock to custom and anything in between.
Some of the techniques I learned in repairing fiberglass bodies I use in metal bodies.
I learned to make molds so they can be used to produce many parts and I learned to maintain those molds.
I learned how to use a chopper gun to lay up parts and molds.
I learned to use the fiberglass cord/string that runs through the gun to re-enforce stress areas in a part.
In conclusion, I did enjoy this video even though your are total novice. If could visit your shop I could teach you some really cool simple techniques to use to make your work easier and produce excellent parts.
Thanks - I do the best I can to learn as I go. That's the point of the work.
Such a timely find - I want to do my own fenders, hood and trunk for my Grand Marquis, maybe even replace the metal door skins with composites. Hmmmmm...
What all's in this playlist? Damn, looks like I hit the motherlode!! Thank you, good sir!
You're welcome. I hope the videos are useful.
I worked on motorcycle carbon exhaust cover, its very challenging. But after seeing this, its not even close. This is big part to be complete. Wow...learned a lot.Thanks. Great project... Subb
Thanks so much. It's great to hear from others that have done this work.
Great job informative and entertaining I usually skip through this type of content to find the best parts but watched your video from start to finish
Congrats on your progress man. Great video.
I have a 1954 Chevy 2 door I'm planning on completely recreating in Carbon. Refreshing to see someone else doing something cool with a classic.
when you said spend hours looking for leeks made me laugh out loud, been there done that. The more time you spend on the pleats and the seal tape the more time you save on the leeks. love the video
Thanks! Those who know the pain...
I like how simply you do your things .
Basic home . You could be a neighbor
Great Job!!. One thing that I've changed in my process is that I've stopped using the blue paper shop towels except for cleanup. Solvents in many products will leach a residue out of the paper towels and leave the residue behind on your surface. You can see what I'm talking about if you put some alcohol on a blue towel and then rub it on a shiny aluminum surface (try removing some black permanent marker from the aluminum). You will see a whitish residue on the aluminum once the alcohol has evaporated from the surface. I've switched to using the boxed cotton "shop rags". They are just cut up white T-shirts and such. Keep up the good work.
Interesting - I'll look into that for sure.
Street bandito are building a carbon 240z and he has some very good info. I really enjoy your content and I hope you keep making videos for ever
Your videos have made me realize I can make my dream build a reality. Thank you for what you do
Your excitement is catching. Instant sub from a messy garage owner
Impressed. TOTALLY understand your excitement. I probably wouldn't sleep for a few days.
Good job dude! Your vid was the first I've ever looked up regarding carbon fiber. Love how you sped things up to save viewing time! Great job making it quick, yet very informing. Too bad more other guys/videos, aren't done like that!! Again......., GREAT JOB!
Glad it was helpful!
Ive never seen the need to comment, but i had to say great video!!! Your opening statements were right out of own mouth.
Thanks Mike.
An absolute master of shade tree carbon fiber build is Mike Patey, the creator of the wilga "DRACO" plane.
He's just lovin to tell you how and do it right.
Hellava nice guy.
Looks like your not doing to bad 😀
i have done a few moulds, and i know the effort that goes into making a part, your results are excellent, top job
Thanks Peter. Nice to hear from those that have done!
Holy crap, Sir! Watching this video was AWESOME!!! I am very proud of the work that you have shared with us, in this video! Very good work and research. The fact that you shared this with anyone who would like to see it, is cray! The amount of time and effort that you have put into making this video is the MOST that anyone has shared with me on TH-cam! I know what you had to go through, in order to make this happen, and I truly appreciate this! This is so great. All of the details that I needed to know? RIGHT HERE! Thank you, so much! I can't believe that I had to wait for a Canadian to show me this, but whatevs. Right? Man! Those fenders turned-out perfect, from what I could tell. 5 pounds?! What a savings in weight! This is unbelievable! That laughter that you let out, when you released that first fender from the mold... I totally get that. You had so much riding on that, and it came out so perfectly, that you probably couldn't believe it! That's what that laugh was about... A good news surprised feeling, knowing that all is well, and that it was YOU that did it. I did the same thing after I programmed my first part on a CNC machine, and held the final product. I was like "Damn, all of that worry, and it was this easy". Anyway, thank you so much, Sir! I will keep this as my reference video.
Thanks for the kind words. I'm not concerned with those few that commented about my laughing. I left that in for folks like you and me that have DONE this and felt the relief and joy. 5/6 lbs is the final weight. So pleased with it. At last count, 180 segments of video filmed over 2 weeks - a lot of work.
Nicely done sir! I have been doing advanced composite on aircraft for over 20 years
Thanks Robert - much appreciated.
Finally!! Someone giving great info on diy carbon fiber!!!
do you know how lucky you are. the odds of you getting VRI correctly from the first try is near impossible. great work man
Honestly - I had no clue. Now that I'm starting to learn more, I'm equally shocked any of this worked.
I love how happy you were pulling the first fender out, that was awesome
I remember it well! So much work to get to that point.
The grey primer was proof of how well your mould surface looked and I mean it looked darn good!
Thanks Shane
Easy composites has a really good tutorial to make the mold and part it's been up for 7 years lol
If you followed the channel you'd know he knows nothing about carbon. Easy composites is tailored to pros
In the event you ever go with another huge part and aren't quite first time lucky, experimenting with fiberglass is far cheaper before you step into CF. Despite most people's understanding of CF, the upper tier of woven fiberglass is actually stronger than the equivalent CF, just not as stiff. That's really where CF shines is stiffness. One can also use alternating layers of FG and CF so long as both fabrics use the same epoxy variants. Just remember that these things aren't getting their strength from too much epoxy. It's definitely a fine art of applying just enough for strength vs weight, and CF definitely prefers precise ratios for a given fabric weight.
You can definitely see a major improvement on the second fender. Man I'm proud of your accomplishments.
I was learning so much...my head hurts just thinking back!
Fantastic, love the detail and learning I gained from this video, this is better than some of the instructional videos by professional and I looking forward to more
More to come. Thanks.
The info and products this guy got from www.compositeenvisions.com is right on spot. They have 3 videos u can buy that show u how step by step matching grains & fibers as goog as major auto whow quality. Just to get a free glimpse into how-to's with molding products and skills check out www.freemansupply.com for their free libraries.
Finally I have found a right place to learn all about fibreglass n carbon fiber Waiting for more updates.
Very good. Thank you for the video. I do wet layups. Not quite brave enough to try infusion.
Nice Work! If yo run into tear out or cracking around bolt flanges or sharp corners, add a layer of 4 Harness Satin, 5 ounce Kevlar in the area somewhere in the middle of the lay-up. Doing a whole layer of Kevlar under the foam will help with print through of the foam, and make for an astonishingly tough piece. If you go the Kevlar route, do yourself a favor and buy a pair of Kevlar specific shears, keep them clean and don't use them for ANYTHING else. I've had really good luck doing rowing shell (racing row boat) repairs with it. I must admit that while I use vacuum when practical, I haven't tried infusion with Kevlar. Keep the videos coming!
What a GREAT JOB, and video. Those fenders look Fantastic! I will watch a few Xs to maybe try. Cause I dont like Fiberglass! Cheers from N.Y.
Thanks - much appreciated. I learned to like fibreglass...every material has it's challenges and my main learning experience was to treat fibreglass with a lot more respect. It was easier to do when I wasn't being sloppy and assuming things would turn out!
Very awesome! I can't think of any project I might use this process for, but I enjoyed your humble commentary and your concise instructions. I mean really, really enjoyed it!
I will be watching the rest of this series-- and anything else you might film! Than you!
Thanks - much appreciated.
This is so impressive! What an accomplishment!
Thanks
Best how-to video on TH-cam?? You have my vote!
Thanks! I'm thinking of doing a few shorter how-to's in the future.
Very cool, thank you very much for the information! I am thinking of doing similar stuff to my classic car. The primer is really something new to me. I figured I'd have to do that with paint later.
I don't usually comment on videos but this was a great learning vid. Very entertaining, i was on the edge of my seat wanting it to be perfect for ya!
Thanks Adam. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Congratulations ! I imagine this is not cheap. I went to plastics & auto body school in high school, I should've paid more attention . I'm building a 70 dart swinger with a stroked big block & would love to save big money by losing lots of weight.
For sure you've got yourself a subscriber! One of the greatest contents that I've found on carbon fiber!
Cheers from São Paulo!
nice job, I am building my custom e36, and your video are giving me much, keep on doing the nice job. tumb up from the dominican republic
Thanks and I'm glad the videos were useful.
That was one hell of a informative video👍👍👍👍
And please make a video on " How to paint them and final finishing"
Will do when ready.
That was great to watch. Thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it
awesome!!
wow for 2 weeks and part molds for life, that's what i'm talking about.
Wow, I'm totally impressed. As a reverse code engineer (info security geek), this type of content is entirely outside of my area of expertise but when I saw the title of the video, my interest was immediately piqued. Someone making a carbon fiber fender in their own garage? Sign me up... Its obvious this took a lot of hard work, dedication, research, time, and money. Thanks for sharing all of that with the rest of us. Great job!
Thanks for the kind words.
That fender looks awesome 👍
Thanks - much appreciated.
For additional info I highly recommend looking into the composite texts within the aerospace engineering textbooks.
Not bad, not bad at all! Planning the flanges out is prob the most important step in making the molds, especially if many future pulls will be done(and you will def want to if the mold is easy to use and easy to trim)
I am about to start a project that may take a few years,but if all goes well,I may be taking it to sema!
Amazing work! Your research and methodical approach has paid dividends, as well as your tenacity to see it through; food for thought about what it takes to make a flawless quality part... Something I'm not ready for yet!
Congratulations man! You look pretty professional but im still proud of you!!
Looks can be deceiving...I'm just a novice working in my garage. No fakery here.
@@ThrottleStopGarage you said you were from canada eh? Are there laws or restrictions on fiberglassing your entire car? Im in the usa and i gotta check. But im determined to loose body weight
@@youngmango4508 None that I'm aware of...our car laws are pretty relaxed where I live.
At your age, your still learning how to "put it in"...... badumbump!
Professional work is more than wonderful
Thanks.
Great video series. I'm not sure anyone has shown such a detailed series on making a composite part besides the "Easy Composites Ltd" channel. I'm not sure if I missed it in any of the comments, and I haven't seen the rest of the videos yet, but from other videos one thing that might help you get your parts out is to apply a little compressed air once you have a corner or two lifted up.
Thanks Paul - I'm now using the air trick with some success. I think the shape of the part makes a big difference - flatter parts for sure benefit from a little air.
@ Lockheed we used 8 axis of frozen layers and plenty of resin with diapers before going into the vacuum heat chamber. pull the vacuum slower and roller the crap out of ut to remove all the bubbles. pull a vacuum lock the ball valve and set a timer for 10 minutes, it should not drop when locked. oB
When you are only using a few layers of fiber and have time (epoxy) it is really nice to put perforated release film between the peel ply and the flow mesh. It helps with getting the flow features (Enkafusion, spiral wrap, etc.) off and it can help keep air bubbles that form in the mesh and not in the part. Looks like it came out nice!
I do have some perforated film - I just haven't used it. I'll have to try this for sure. I'm happy with the parts so far - some have been a struggle, but that's just part of the process.
Great video Sir and you are obviously very proud with the finished product. One point of note is Carbon Fibre is lethal when being trimmed. Masks and gloves must be worn at all times.
Well, that easily earned my subscription. Great video
Thanks Brad.
What a fantastic video!! Thank you for sharing this journey 🙏 Jason
Glad you enjoyed it!
You put more layers than I expected! I was thinking two layers first then and aero mat core and another final inside layer of carbon for my parts but you put 3 on each side I think (?) Awesome work!!!!
Three - core - two is the stack. It's probably way overkill, but still light and very strong. Thanks for the support.
Throttle Stop Garage just started molding my Ferrari body plug today. Thanks for sharing the info. Subscribed 👍🏻
Wow. That was a lot of work. Subscribed.
Great work...love it. Thank you for the information and demonstration.
Glad it was helpful!
Looks great. I will take September in Canada all day to September in TEXAS. It's still almost 100 degrees out here... Working outside in the summer as a mechanic really sucked.
September is a weird month for us...winter comes fast and Canadians tend to get a little anxious in the Fall as you never know what's coming next for weather.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I played hockey in Canada over some summers for tournaments and stuff but never there for winter except Montreal.... weird using tunnels but man it was cold. Miss the hockey but not the weather.
Great work,good video something you might want to try is lantor soric C.E.. sells it you might replace some of the carbon, and replace the flow medium and have more area cored.
Great job! Time well spent!
Do something cool every day! Lots of information in this video. Worth the wait.
Thanks Paul - it's been a long time coming.
Build creator’s channel covers a lot of this detail… in detail 👍
Thanks! I'm trying to cover the most important points, but I know there's more out there.
Nice job, normaly on those last parts of the infusion (Corners )I use one hair dryer to eat litle bit the resin and it flows nicely, I use Epoxi, when heated it flows very good. nice
I love your enthusiasm!
Thanks!
Have you thought about using chopped carbon fiber, if your not looking for asthetic, i think it would be a good base layer to capture all those details that you needed. Then you can use your 2x2 twill or whatever for strength. I'd probably use unidirectional offset on 45. If you ever watch how fiberglass hot tubs are made in mold, they use compressed air to just pop their massive and complex parts right out.
I've honestly never thought of this. I know the air popping was mentioned several times by people with much more experience than me. I was always scared to try.
Beautiful job you should be proud of yourself. Approximately how much did it cost for a fender?
Sort of depends if my wife reads the comments or not. Truthfully, it's hard to cost it all out. Mold cost is about $300, carbon fiber and consumables about twice that per fender. Time - assuming no mistakes, at least 40 hours per side. Good thing labour is free.
Cool stuff.. ! One day I will attempt this whole process! Thanks for sharing.
Have fun Tony.
Soo much learning, cant wait to do the same with my Minitruck build
You are an amazing guy and an incredible inspiration!! Thank you so much! 💓
You are so welcome!
Looks great. You will only get better.
Thanks.
I can't wait to do my whole PT Cruiser.
Beautiful job. They look superb.
Love the videos! A great inspiration for when I start making some needed CF parts for my 66 Datsun Roadster!
That is awesome! Have fun!
I must say, great video!! I'm planning on making a hood. If that all goes well I'll make the fenders, bumpers, and quarter panels down the road. Absolutely priceless. Thank you for your time. Subscribed!
Thanks Joseph. Good luck with your project!
Great job! I was smiling right along with you!!!
And the fender in your left hand already has a passenger @ 29:50! A true testament to its usability! LOL!
Jorden Epps I was looking for this comment lol glad I’m not the only one to notice 😂
Ok, I was watching mainly because I was trying to kill some time before leaving work....and the results BLEW MY MIND! Good job dude! That's some amazing stuff :).
Glad to help kill a little time and blow a few minds.
Just want to say thanks of the great information. That's a fantastic video and amazing result. Well done great channel
Thanks Kevin. Just trying to help out the other DIYers out there.
Really like your videos, great result on the parts. Congratulations.
A couple comments on glassing. I've heard you talk about catalyst ratios a couple of times, while you can catalyze resin using weight or volume you need to be sure to reference the correct table. Most tables give ratios by volume, so be careful that you're getting what you believe your are. Duratec is correctly catalyzed by volume, as is any resin system. Also on the vail (first layer) you really should use csm to prevent print through. If your having problems getting it around corners consider a lighter weight mat. You can also thicken up some resin with cabosil (fumed silica) and putty the inside radius to soften it.
One more item, you should never need to dart csm to have it conform. As soon as styrene is applied to the mat, it will loosen right up and conform to the most intricate shapes. CSM is already a relatively weak product and by cutting darts you take 100%
of the strength out of that layer in those areas. Just start wetting it out and it will lay right down.
Thanks Steve. Good points on all counts. My reference to Duratec's ratios was from their video - they list weight and volume. What I read said 2 percent by weight.
I wasn't able to source different weights of CSM locally. I just took delivery of some veil for my next mold. I didn't think about the strength issue when I cut it. I have a couple of different weights of cloth to do my next molds and proper tooling gel coat.
Learning!
I thought he was infusing with epoxy? No styrene
Trying looking for "carbon fiber fabrics" and Hexcell is a good source too. You could also use fiberglass for the mistakes. Carbon fiber uses a different resin than typical fiberglass. There is also an industry magazine called Composite Materials that has great articles and sources.
Thanks for the tips!
This is awesome!! I am going to try making my own carbon fiber. Thank you so much!
Have fun!
wonder if bagging a part works better if you use an actual bag and pull it around the whole thing , only need to close up one side and thats ontoo itself
I'm told for smaller parts that this is the way to go. For these parts, doing the bag this way makes the most sense.
Do you have to make a mold or can you use your original fender to lay the carbon fabric on there and make your new fender right off the original one? I thought i watched a video of someone doing that recently.... 🤔🤔
I really want to give it a shot at making fenders, trunk, hood, door skins, and a custom lip kit for my car but i really dont have ANY experience in doing something like this so i wouldnt even know where to start.
The fender if made the way you suggest would be larger than the original part. So, I'd say this is not how I'd do it unless there was no other way. I'm sure it can be done - maybe add a few layers of cloth, bag it up in a wet layup, pull the part and lay more layers inside. This starts to sound like more work than making a mold if I'm honest.